Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread - Page 638 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19111 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 04:34 AM
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Folks, I could really use your input. I'm pretty decent with tech but I'm a bit stumped. There are 3 things that are very much annoying me and I'm not experienced enough to figure it out still after 1 year of ownership:

1) I've been noticing when playing a DVD (specifically WS, not sure about FS) that is an older title like Airplane, The Golden Child and even Top Gun - the player/projector combo play what appears to be a widescreen image but a small one in the middle of the screen with black letter box all around. I have now learned this is very likely to do with the fact that these DVD's were non-anamorphic and I've found many people are complaining of this phenomenon with newer devices. There is no setting on either component that I can use to correct the issue. I've experimented with the resolution output on the player and there is no aspect control on it. I've looked into the PJ settings but there is nothing that I can find that does anything. This was never a problem with my OppoDVD or Panasonic PJ, I recall sometimes where there was a rare issue like this I could just hit the aspect on the PJ to zoom and it was perfect. Aspect always greyed out on the Epson, only get normal. Currently I had to create a lens adjustment setting to handle this issue, but I don't like having to move the lens every time.

2) A second part to question 1 - why the h*&$ does the PJ aspect function not work? I have not ever had it once allow me to change it - either using DVD, BR, Netflix out of the BR player. Could it be a problem somehow with the DP-UB820 or would it be a problem with the 5040UB PJ? I've looked in the owners manual for settings that may cause that setting to be inactive but I cannot find reference to it. Or maybe I can't read english?

3) Is there a forum topic here or web site outside that discuses stuff like Nits? I never really understood the topic and why knowing the values has any effect on what we are able to do on our end. So last night I watched the TopGun BR which I wasn't really happy with at all, and I wanted to compare it to my DVD which I have not watched for a very long time. Surprisingly the DVD was worse, but also had the issue from question 1 above which spurred these questions. I digress. I found the movies both very dark compared to others and often find a great variance in brightness between movies in any media which makes me go change the picture mode. Would knowing how many Nits it is make any real difference or would it simply explain why the movie is displaying very dark?

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.

Last edited by marcosphoto; 04-04-2020 at 05:55 AM.
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post #19112 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcosphoto View Post
Folks, I could really use your input. I'm pretty decent with tech but I'm a bit stumped. There are 3 things that are very much annoying me and I'm not experienced enough to figure it out still after 1 year of ownership:

1) I've been noticing when playing a DVD (specifically WS, not sure about FS) that is an older title like Airplane, The Golden Child and even Top Gun - the player/projector combo play what appears to be a WS image but a small one in the middle of the screen. There is no setting on either component that I can use to correct the issue. I've experimented with the resolution output on the player and there is no aspect control on it. I've looked into the PJ settings but there is nothing that I can find that does anything. This was never a problem with my OppoDVD or Panasonic PJ, I recall sometimes where there was a rare issue like this I could just hit the aspect on the PJ to zoom and it was perfect. Aspect always greyed out on the Epson, only get normal. Currently I had to create a lens adjustment setting to handle this issue, but I don't like having to move the lens every time.

2) A second part to question 1 - why the h*&$ does the PJ aspect function not work? I have not ever had it once allow me to change it - either using DVD, BR, Netflix out of the BR player. Could it be a problem somehow with the DP-UB820 or would it be a problem with the 5040UB PJ? I've looked in the owners manual for settings that may cause that setting to be inactive but I cannot find reference to it. Or maybe I can't read english?

3) Is there a forum topic here or web site outside that discuses stuff like Nits? I never really understood the topic and why knowing the values has any effect on what we are able to do on our end. So last night I watched the TopGun BR which I wasn't really happy with at all, and I wanted to compare it to my DVD which I have not watched for a very long time. Surprisingly the DVD was worse, but also had the issue from question 1 above which spurred these questions. I digress. I found the movies both very dark compared to others and often find a great variance in brightness between movies in any media which makes me go change the picture mode. Would knowing how many Nits it is make any real difference or would it simply explain why the movie is displaying very dark?
Not sure what you mean by WS or FS.

Regarding nits, if other titles are bright enough this should not be the issue. Use this calculator to estimate the projector's brightness, and will give an fL value.
10-15fL is recommended for SDR.
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

The projector and other equipment needs to have it's color space set correctly.

Then the Brightness and Contrast settings set. Brightness sets the lower limit (black), and Contrast sets the upper limit (white), so that it matches with the movie. You can use this disc or another calibration disc:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...libration.html

Movies even in SDR can be darker or brighter than they should be. In that case you can adjust the Brightness level.
For instance on my setup the black level is poor so I lower the Brightness until it begins to visibly crush blacks. It's not just an issue of incorrect black levels from the source, but the black level of the unit (not a 5040UB).

This video is also available on the disc:
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post #19113 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 05:42 AM
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@marcosphoto

Regarding lens memory save being perfect. Theres a trick to it. You can’t go back and forth a click or 2 for perfect adjustment. IIRC its something like 5 or 10 clicks that it will ignore if you go back and forth before saving.

But if you only focus in one direction and them back and save it there it will save correctly.

IE mess your focus up by going 12 clicks out only one way. Then bring it back into focus by going only back. (don’t go back and forth to finesse perfect - only move focus in one direction before save.). The memory works that way. I didn’t discover this. Some one else did, but it works for me.


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post #19114 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 05:48 AM
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To answer your first question, way back before 16:9 TVs were the norm, DVDs were all framed for 4:3 aspect ratio. Once plasmas came into more houses, DVDs moved to "anamorphic", or "enhanced for widescreen." What you're seeing is a 4:3 image with bars on the top and bottom, and not wide enough to reach the sides of your screen. If you want to fill the screen, you have to zoom the image, but the image quality will suffer.


Hope that made sense...


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post #19115 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
Not sure what you mean by WS or FS.

Regarding nits, if other titles are bright enough this should not be the issue. Use this calculator to estimate the projector's brightness, and will give an fL value.
10-15fL is recommended for SDR.
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

The projector and other equipment needs to have it's color space set correctly.

Then the Brightness and Contrast settings set. Brightness sets the lower limit (black), and Contrast sets the upper limit (white), so that it matches with the movie. You can use this disc or another calibration disc:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...libration.html

Movies even in SDR can be darker or brighter than they should be. In that case you can adjust the Brightness level.
For instance on my setup the black level is poor so I lower the Brightness until it begins to visibly crush blacks. It's not just an issue of incorrect black levels from the source, but the black level of the unit (not a 5040UB).

This video is also available on the disc:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWohqcoDj8Y

I appreciate your response, WS meaning widescreen. I have changed my post to reflect new information I learned which I have already seen responses on this thread that confirm what I found. The problem appears to be non-anamorphic films which is a widespread issue not only for me. However in the past I could just hit the "zoom" button on either my OppoDVD player or Panasonic PJ - but the Panasonic DP-UB820 does not have an aspect button and the Epson 5040UB aspect setting does not work for reasons I am still trying to find.

I appreciate your help on the brightness info, I will investigate further. However because of the inconsistency of the condition I am resistant to changing all the settings every time I encounter a movie that seems dark. If it were all movies I'd say I have a horrible set-up, but it's probably only 15-20% of movies that I find I have to switch from Cinema to Bright Cinema and crank the power to medium. Otherwise I have no problems staying on ECO and Cinema in my pitch black room and projector around 16'.

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.
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post #19116 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
@marcosphoto

Regarding lens memory save being perfect. Theres a trick to it. You can’t go back and forth a click or 2 for perfect adjustment. IIRC its something like 5 or 10 clicks that it will ignore if you go back and forth before saving.

But if you only focus in one direction and them back and save it there it will save correctly.

IE mess your focus up by going 12 clicks out only one way. Then bring it back into focus by going only back. (don’t go back and forth to finesse perfect - only move focus in one direction before save.). The memory works that way. I didn’t discover this. Some one else did, but it works for me.


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Thanks for your response, I am aware of the lens shift characteristics with the PJ. However lens shift inaccuracies are not my problem but currently my solution - which I am trying to address by finding out why the aspect control in the PJ (zoom in this case) does not ever function. It is eternally greyed out, has never worked since I bought it.

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.
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post #19117 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roland6465 View Post
To answer your first question, way back before 16:9 TVs were the norm, DVDs were all framed for 4:3 aspect ratio. Once plasmas came into more houses, DVDs moved to "anamorphic", or "enhanced for widescreen." What you're seeing is a 4:3 image with bars on the top and bottom, and not wide enough to reach the sides of your screen. If you want to fill the screen, you have to zoom the image, but the image quality will suffer. Hope that made sense...
You are bang-on with your response, which I've learned with some more research online after writing my post. (I have since re-written the post to reflect the new information). I would say it definitely is related to non-anamorphic titles since it only seems to occur with old movies. I'm also thinking now in hind-sight, it may only be occurring on DVD titles that ask you to select widescreen or fullscreen! (Still have to verify this). My real concern is not the phenomenon of why, but how do i fix it? In the past I could just hit the "zoom" button on either my OppoDVD player or Panasonic PJ - but the Panasonic DP-UB820 does not have an aspect button and the Epson 5040UB aspect setting does not work for reasons I am still trying to find. Currently my only solution is to use lens shift which very annoying to me and extra wear and tear on the lens motor that should not be necessary if I could get the zoom function to work on the PJ. I would rather have a PQ decline rather than use binoculars to watch the movie!

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.
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post #19118 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
Panny UHD
HDMI/Advances settings
HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
Option (Remote)
HDR Optimiser On
DR Conversion +8
Tone Curve (White) +4
Tone Curve (Black) -4

Epson

Digital Cinema
Brightness 51
Contrast 62
Color Saturation 52
Tint 50
Sharpness 9/9/9
Color temp 4
Skin tone 3
Image enhancement 3
Super resolution 6/6

Advanced
Gamma - customised
0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
RGB 50/50/50 for all
Super White off
Iris 0
Power medium
Auto iris normal

Signal/Advanced
Dynamic Range SDR
Image processing fast

Or
Panny - output HDR BT2020
HDR Optimiser on
DR adjustment +1 or +2

Epson
Digital Cinema
Brightness 46
Contrast 100
Color sat 72
Tint 50
Color temp 4
Skin tone 3
Gamma - as above
Power - high
Singal/advanced
Dynamic range SDR




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Ok, after a month of using my 5040ub on top a popcorn machine (the room is under construction), I finally mounted and tried to dial this thing in more. I used these settings and they do look good on the 4k disk I was using but it was hard to see some of the differences in the settings from a 4k source. However, I preferred some similar settings to these on bright cinema color mode when watching a 1080p show (Altered Carbon) on Netflix.


Does anyone have any suggestions for bright cinema settings for 1080p conent?
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post #19119 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 12:24 PM
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I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?


1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?

2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?

3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?

4) Gaming in HDR is possible, but only at 30 FPS? More a future proof question as the kids still have a basic Xbox One.

I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050.


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post #19120 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Uther View Post
I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?


1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?

2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?

3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?

4) Gaming in HDR is possible, but only at 30 FPS? More a future proof question as the kids still have a basic Xbox One.

I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050.


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Here is some help and an opinion as I just bought a refurb one a month ago.



2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?


I don't have Apple tv but everywhere I researched says yes this is correct. I actually don't have the bandwith to stream 4k anyway so you might consider that.



3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?


I do have a panasonic 420 and yes there are no issues.


My opinion: I just researched this thing and I wanted answers to all of the reliability questions and the HDR questions. I don't know what kind of projector you are coming from but I would now choose the refurb 5040 I got even if it didn't do HDR at all. The price was such that it allowed me to justify to my wife to try the upgrade and when we got it even she was blown away. It does such a great job with 1080p content in terms of detail, sharpness, uniformity, brightness, and black levels. Also there are so many customizable settings and lens adjustments, as witnessed by the hundreds of posts on here about them. It's hard to imagine wanting more in terms of settings. Sure, it would be nice mentally to know that the chip was true 4k and that all HDR source would just work at whatever frame rate, but I imagine you would have to pay more than double to significantly beat this thing. I originally viewed my purchase as a hold over for 2 years or so until one of the mid ranged jvc 4k units fell into a more stomachable price range but I now think this will probably hold me over for 5 years or so. The only thing I could say negatively would be that it would be super annoying to have to send a unit back. Mine actually had a pixel issue for a few days but we are living in coronaworld so there was no way I was sending it back right now. Strange enough, the issue has been gone for weeks and my fingers are crossed. I guess that is the only risk I would view is that you might have to return a unit and get another, but that's part of buying a refurb unit at a deep discount I guess.
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post #19121 of 19836 Old 04-04-2020, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by vikes88 View Post
Here is some help and an opinion as I just bought a refurb one a month ago.



2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?


I don't have Apple tv but everywhere I researched says yes this is correct. I actually don't have the bandwith to stream 4k anyway so you might consider that.



3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?


I do have a panasonic 420 and yes there are no issues.


My opinion: I just researched this thing and I wanted answers to all of the reliability questions and the HDR questions. I don't know what kind of projector you are coming from but I would now choose the refurb 5040 I got even if it didn't do HDR at all. The price was such that it allowed me to justify to my wife to try the upgrade and when we got it even she was blown away. It does such a great job with 1080p content in terms of detail, sharpness, uniformity, brightness, and black levels. Also there are so many customizable settings and lens adjustments, as witnessed by the hundreds of posts on here about them. It's hard to imagine wanting more in terms of settings. Sure, it would be nice mentally to know that the chip was true 4k and that all HDR source would just work at whatever frame rate, but I imagine you would have to pay more than double to significantly beat this thing. I originally viewed my purchase as a hold over for 2 years or so until one of the mid ranged jvc 4k units fell into a more stomachable price range but I now think this will probably hold me over for 5 years or so. The only thing I could say negatively would be that it would be super annoying to have to send a unit back. Mine actually had a pixel issue for a few days but we are living in coronaworld so there was no way I was sending it back right now. Strange enough, the issue has been gone for weeks and my fingers are crossed. I guess that is the only risk I would view is that you might have to return a unit and get another, but that's part of buying a refurb unit at a deep discount I guess.

Thanks for the feedback. I am considering this a holdover too, especially at this price. I’m coming from a 12 year old Panasonic AE3000 that finally has a dying bulb, so I’m sure it is a huge upgrade. If I can watch 4K UHD in HDR and stream 4K HDR (no bandwidth issue here) while keeping my scope screen setup, then I am happy.


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post #19122 of 19836 Old 04-05-2020, 02:12 AM
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I have a 5040ub on the way to replace my Panasonic PT-AE8000u, and I'm trying to figure out if I should hold onto my 3d glasses. Does anybody know if the Sony PS3 3D glasses will work with the 5040ub? Here's a link to what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-3.../dp/B00562O8U0

I tried to research the question, but it's been hard to find good information.

Thanks!

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post #19123 of 19836 Old 04-05-2020, 08:37 AM
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5040ube on the way! I’m excited

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post #19124 of 19836 Old 04-05-2020, 09:44 AM
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I am thinking on buying the 5040 if refurbs become available again. I just noticed that Projector Central listed the 5040 as end of life in 3/2020. I might consider the 5040UBe if the 5040 doesn't become available again. I do have a few questions that some of you seasoned guys can comment on so here they are:


  • I'm brand-loyal to Epson and have been running the Pro Cinema 9500UB for some time. Some comments I've read report that 4k on the 5040 isn't much better than 1080p was on their old projector. The 5040 has got rave reviews for "best bang for the buck" but I tend to value comments from every day users more than market professionals. Is this a broad consensus on picture quality? Maybe varies by content and source equipment?

  • I have a built-in media rack and am running long 25ft+ active HDMI cables. To avoid incompatibility issues and possibly pulling new cables is the wireless interface on the 5040UBe a good workaround? We've all seen where some newer devices don't handshake well on older cables and can produce issues. How solid is the wireless HDMI interface?

  • This goes to my first question about media type but I'll ask it anyway. I do little streaming and most all of my content is 1080p Bluray discs. Is there an appreciable improvement in picture quality for native 1080p content upconverted to 5040's 4K enhanced?


I appreciate your taking the time to read this and welcome your advice



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post #19125 of 19836 Old 04-05-2020, 10:21 AM
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@miketyler

It's nuanced.
It depends on the size of the screen, screen fabric, visual acuity, distance to screen, what that individual is used to, quality of the source, environment/room of the setup.


A 1080p disc + 4K Enhancement will not offer that big of an increase vs. the same disc on 1080p mode. On the same projector.
But even at 1080p the 5040UB will look better then your old 1080p projector.

If the 1080p disc is upscaled by a good upscaler (like madvr) and the signal sent is 4K, there will also be some improvement.


A 4K UHD disc on the 5040UB will result in a more increased improvement.

The resolution that the video was shot as is also relevant. Most movies are shot in 2K, with ~80 titles shot in 4K. There is a difference if the setup allows it.


However, I know some will disagree, but resolution is not the most important aspect of the image, contrast and black level are.



Another aspect is HDR, which is usually released in 4K, but not always. HDR is graded/looks different from SDR. Some grading is better, others not so good. The HDR signal also has to go through a tone mapper, which the 5040UB's and many other projectors is not good.

If most of your viewing is done via disc, a HTPC with madvr will be a great addition. However, streaming is becoming more ubiquitous, especially these days. HTPC with madvr can't do streaming. Some users use the UB series from Panasonic, which can do tone mapping, but it's not close to what madvr. It is said to be better then the 5050UB's tone mapping, but that does not say much.

Additionally, there is also the 10GB bandwidth limitation of the 5040UB, that you can read about.
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post #19126 of 19836 Old 04-05-2020, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgar_in_Indy View Post
I have a 5040ub on the way to replace my Panasonic PT-AE8000u, and I'm trying to figure out if I should hold onto my 3d glasses. Does anybody know if the Sony PS3 3D glasses will work with the 5040ub? Here's a link to what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-3.../dp/B00562O8U0

I tried to research the question, but it's been hard to find good information.

Thanks!
Kept mine from my old Sony HW55e but they do not work with the 5040ub.

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post #19127 of 19836 Old 04-06-2020, 11:34 AM
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looking to build an AT screen for my 5040.

Going to do 2.39 ratio

My eye level is at 50" off the ground with my seats. I have 80" to work with floor to ceiling. The 5040 has 2.1x zoom max.

so I'm looking at 50" tall by 119.5" wide.

Spandex World is currently closed for new orders due to COVID. Not sure what to do. All Carl's cloth is bought up. I orderd some blackout material from Joann Fabrics as a stopgap in case I can't do a proper screen for awhile.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

edit: ended up ordering some milliskin spandex black and white sheets.

Last edited by b_scott; 04-07-2020 at 09:43 AM.
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post #19128 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 09:26 AM
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I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?


1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?

2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?

3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?

4) Gaming in HDR is possible, but only at 30 FPS? More a future proof question as the kids still have a basic Xbox One.

I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050.


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Originally Posted by Uther View Post
Thanks for the feedback. I am considering this a holdover too, especially at this price. I’m coming from a 12 year old Panasonic AE3000 that finally has a dying bulb, so I’m sure it is a huge upgrade. If I can watch 4K UHD in HDR and stream 4K HDR (no bandwidth issue here) while keeping my scope screen setup, then I am happy.


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Uther, Check out this review: This guy adds some nice technicality to what i was saying about the 1080p sources and compares it to two other projectors (that are actually more expensive compared to the refurb). He also has some good basic insight to a few of the settings.



https://www.projectorcentral.com/eps...0ub-review.htm
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post #19129 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 09:48 AM
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does anyone run the 5040 behind a glass? Mine will be behind a wall but I was just going to build a box that opened to the room. I'd kinda rather just create a small square glass for it to project through. But not if it's going to harm the image quality.

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post #19130 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 12:30 PM
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this is at 128" on the dirtiest crappiest concrete wall ever, with a green line up the wall. Still looks pretty amazing.

edit: I don't know why they show vertically. they were taken horizontally and uploaded that way. Sorry.
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post #19131 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 03:34 PM
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this is at 128" on the dirtiest crappiest concrete wall ever, with a green line up the wall. Still looks pretty amazing.

edit: I don't know why they show vertically. they were taken horizontally and uploaded that way. Sorry.
Why not just move the image a foot left off of the green stripe? Should just be able to use lens shift unless you're already maxing it out.

Spoiler!
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post #19132 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b_scott View Post
this is at 128" on the dirtiest crappiest concrete wall ever, with a green line up the wall. Still looks pretty amazing.

edit: I don't know why they show vertically. they were taken horizontally and uploaded that way. Sorry.
Why not just move the image a foot left off of the green stripe? Should just be able to use lens shift unless you're already maxing it out.
Oh I’m remodeling the basement. And building a screen. This was just me throwing it up judging space.

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post #19133 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by b_scott View Post
does anyone run the 5040 behind a glass? Mine will be behind a wall but I was just going to build a box that opened to the room. I'd kinda rather just create a small square glass for it to project through. But not if it's going to harm the image quality.
I've done it before with a different projector bought high end quality glass and notice no change in image quality.
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post #19134 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b_scott View Post
does anyone run the 5040 behind a glass? Mine will be behind a wall but I was just going to build a box that opened to the room. I'd kinda rather just create a small square glass for it to project through. But not if it's going to harm the image quality.
I've done it before with a different projector bought high end quality glass and notice no change in image quality.
Thanks!

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post #19135 of 19836 Old 04-07-2020, 11:32 PM
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Quick white spray paint and black border just to test image. Looks great.
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post #19136 of 19836 Old 04-08-2020, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Uther View Post
I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?

1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?

3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?

I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your questions are the same that many of us ask. As for 2 & 4 I have no comments, use mainly BR disk. I searched long and hard to get answers before buying mine brand new.


1) I have it on questionable authority that around mid 2018ish, Epson finally made some changes regarding the power supply issues. Not sure if it was a hardware change or firmware fix - and ultimately I'm not 100% the source was truthful. What I did notice however, is that around that time there were far less complaints about power supply failures. Those complaints that did exist, seemed to come from units that were purchased before that point. (I put out an experiment on this forum asking people to respond on if they had power supply failures and if so - when the bought them. 2 replies only, not sure if that means they are reliable or if nobody could be bothered). It is worth mention that there remained some post date purchase complaints on failure, but it appeared to me that if anything it was refurb units. Presumably, QC on refurbs is really low, and the issue in those particular units may not have been addressed during refurb or perhaps a fluke? I would love to comment but I only have a few hundred hours on mine. The real question is, was the unit you're looking to buy actually produced after the production change date (if there is in fact one) or was it stuck in the back of a warehouse for a year or so? Mine was a brand new unit and had the latest firmware at the time, so I think I am safe.

Epson has no transparency in the product, and their tech support is extremely weak - make for a very frustrating ownership of a very expensive product. I had been told by a dealer that they prefer not to sell Epson for the same reasons, and because they resist addressing serious issues with the product but rather ride it out until the next model. That's pretty scary when you're refusing to sell maybe the most popular and affordable PJ on the market. I gave up calling their support line and resort to this site for any questions, it's like pulling teeth with them. Not sure I'd buy another, but I'll hold judgement until then. Until now, between all the sources I have directed my questions - I've managed to be quite happy with mine.

3) Only problem is the dark picture with HDR as you've already heard. I can playback 4K Ultra no problems, but the dark picture eliminates any satisfaction I could have had. I'm no pro set-up guy, seems some people have managed to make it look good. I find that it's so dark that the colours are muted also which makes it a waste of my time. The settings suggested by Dreamliner a while back for SDR2020 are just fine to my eyes.

) Difference between 5040 and 5050, from what I can tell you are correct. But I consider the bandwidth thing to be a big deal. I think there may actually be some HDR brightness improvement also, don't remember where I read that. Not sure if it's mapping or actual hardware improvement. I've actually wondered if I should have held out for the 5050 at times, although mine was on sale it was not a refurb so the price was still pretty high. I feel the extra bandwidth would have really helped setup and PQ concerns, although beware that some other components involved in your system may also have the bandwidth bottleneck. I am finding out now that some AVR's do as well - even though the spec is hidden away in fine print or no print at all.

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.

Last edited by marcosphoto; 04-08-2020 at 04:31 AM. Reason: Grammer, formatting
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post #19137 of 19836 Old 04-08-2020, 05:57 PM
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Contrast?

So I ran a Spears and Munsil calibration disk on two different players and here is what I got:


Digital Cinema Bright Cinema

Brightness 52 48

Contrast 35 32

Color 48 46

Tint 50 50


When I look at other peoples settings almost everyone has a contrast listed of 50 or above, some have 70 and 100? After running the disk I do see more detail in the dark scenes, but I don't understand. I do have a very dark room. Probably a new bulb, and I think my screen has a gain of 1. Anyone have any ideas?
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post #19138 of 19836 Old 04-08-2020, 06:12 PM
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So I ran a Spears and Munsil calibration disk on two different players and here is what I got:


Digital Cinema Bright Cinema

Brightness 52 48

Contrast 35 32

Color 48 46

Tint 50 50


When I look at other peoples settings almost everyone has a contrast listed of 50 or above, some have 70 and 100? After running the disk I do see more detail in the dark scenes, but I don't understand. I do have a very dark room. Probably a new bulb, and I think my screen has a gain of 1. Anyone have any ideas?
I'd have to go look, but I'm pretty sure my contrast is in the 30's too.
I'm in natural mode for my settings.

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--------------------------------------------------
Epson 5040, 150" 16:9 1.1gain, Source: HTPC w/madVR, Audio: Onkyo RZ 830 avr, 5.1.4 Atmos setup. 5 speaker Energy C Series: L/R C300's, C C-C100, SR/SL C50's, 4 in-ceiling Micca R-8c. Subwoofers: 1 MiniMarty um18 w/NX3000D. 4 diy Slim VBSS 18" Subs w/NX3000D.
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post #19139 of 19836 Old 04-08-2020, 06:32 PM
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So I ran a Spears and Munsil calibration disk on two different players and here is what I got:


Digital Cinema Bright Cinema

Brightness 52 48

Contrast 35 32

Color 48 46

Tint 50 50


When I look at other peoples settings almost everyone has a contrast listed of 50 or above, some have 70 and 100? After running the disk I do see more detail in the dark scenes, but I don't understand. I do have a very dark room. Probably a new bulb, and I think my screen has a gain of 1. Anyone have any ideas?
Some more info might be needed for how you tested though...for example, was this in HDR or SDR? BT2020 or 709 colour space, what resolution? etc.

Using a setting like HarperVision 4k requires the contrast to be near 100, Because of the way its taking the HDR signal from source and bypassing the projectors tone-mapping.
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post #19140 of 19836 Old 04-08-2020, 11:33 PM
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I've noticed that my lens memory doesn't take me back to the exact location. It's usually off by a little. Is this normal? I'll be masking top/bottom and sides with black velvet so not a gigantic deal but just checking.

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