Need a Long 10FT Celing Mount for SONY VPL-HW45ES - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-24-2017, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Need a Long 10FT Celing Mount for SONY VPL-HW45ES

Hi i have a cathederal type ceiling in my house. So i need a Long maybe 7 to 10ft Ceiling Mount for my SONY VPL-HW45ES

Please, any ideas?
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-24-2017, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Blanco View Post
Hi i have a cathederal type ceiling in my house. So i need a Long maybe 7 to 10ft Ceiling Mount for my SONY VPL-HW45ES

Please, any ideas?
You don't need a long ceiling mount, just a long extension rod (or two).

But check out this combo here. I don't have any experience with this unit, just a starting point.

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post #3 of 17 Old 01-24-2017, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Actually i am sorry lol i measured it just now and i need up to 4ft long. Not 10ft. Sorry about that
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-24-2017, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for your link!

Not sure if it will fit my Model of Projector.

Also I cant tell by the picture if it comes in the Color Black or not.

I guess i cant be picky with looks. I mean its kinda ugly lol
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-24-2017, 08:34 PM
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How were you planning to run the power and HDMI wiring? I'm guessing there isn't an existing plug on the ceiling .. ceilings rarely have them. And if you're going to have to run HDMI cable up the pole and then across the ceiling and down a wall, you're going to need a seriously long HDMI cable. If the 45ES is like my 40ES, it's over 20 lbs so you're going to need something substantial to hang it from. The cheapest solution is probably 1" threaded steel pipe that you can probably pick up at HD or Lowes .. spray it black. I believe some mounts will offer the ability to screw a 3/4" or 1" threaded rod into. The top end is likely going to have to be some kind of custom wood angled mount that's going to have to screw into a ceiling joist. If the bottom of it was flat, you could use a round threaded flange as the base and screw the top of the rod into it. (eg.http://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-3-4-i...-604/205955667). Just make sure your screws are capable of supporting the weight of the projector and rod .. bolts would be better.

The 45ES has the ability to zoom quite a bit .. are you sure you can't mount it on a back wall somehow? Or maybe create a fake beam going across the room that you could attach it to and run the cords inside it.

Ian

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post #6 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 05:36 AM
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I would use a Chief mounting system of the RPA series. They use a 1.5” NPT pipe as the drop tube. You can go to any apron or vest store / Lowes, Home Depot etc. and they will cut and tread one for you to the length you need. And you can rattle can paint it flat black to match the rest of the mount. I have two of these one top and one bottom and that allowed for a sloping ceiling. They sell a variety of products that work together and I’m fond of their ceiling mount that allows for movement side to side on a track system.

Another trick I have found I like is to make the drop tube from PVC pipe with glued on (PVC cement) 1.5” NPT adapters on each end and painted flat black. It gives the homeowner the ability to cut his own length drop tube at home with just a hacksaw or a PVC cutter and make a custom tube length without all the weight of a steel pipe. It is also easy to drill a hole in it top and bottom and fish your wires thru.

As always and mentioned above make sure everything is solid and strong to take the weight of the projector.
garciab likes this.

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post #7 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 06:01 AM
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I would recommend you use a Chief mount. The Chief mounts have excellent projector adjustment capability and are some what modular in design. It will probably be the last mount you need to buy should you change projectors in the future.

I would recommend one their universal mounts. http://www.chiefmfg.com/Mount-Finder/SONY/VPL-HW45ES

They have a variety of angled ceiling plates to accommodate cathedral ceiling installations.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Search/Angled%20Ceiling%20Plate

You can go to most any hardware store or HomeDepot/Lowes and buy inexpensive 1.5" NPT pipe for the extension column any length you may need. I drill a hole on the sides of the pipe at the top and bottom and run the cables inside the pipe for a clean instillation.
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 07:10 AM
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I drill a hole on the sides of the pipe at the top and bottom and run the cables inside the pipe for a clean instillation.
I have a machine shop at home so putting a hole thru a schedule 40 1.5” steel pipe is not a big deal for me. Most home owners would have a problem getting a hole large enough for a power cord or any of the other connectors they may require. A metal cutting hole saw would be most people’s best bet. It is much easier with the PVC method I mentioned above as it cuts easy with a wood cutting bit or even a dermal tool.

A better bet for most people looking to hide the wires or those not wanting to spray flat black paint is black hockey tape you can buy a roll at Walmart for 4 bucks. My drop tube is wrapped in it right now, and it is easy to run your cables down the outside the pipe on the back or least visible side and wrap them and the pipe at the same time no different than how you tape drop handlebars on a bike. Hockey tape or friction tape has a very dull black surface and blends right in with a dark room. I use a couple turns of electrical tape first to hold the wires straight and then wrap with the hockey tape.

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post #9 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 07:22 AM
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Here is mine with the black hockey tape and the chief mount setup.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IanR View Post
How were you planning to run the power and HDMI wiring? I'm guessing there isn't an existing plug on the ceiling .. ceilings rarely have them. And if you're going to have to run HDMI cable up the pole and then across the ceiling and down a wall, you're going to need a seriously long HDMI cable. If the 45ES is like my 40ES, it's over 20 lbs so you're going to need something substantial to hang it from. The cheapest solution is probably 1" threaded steel pipe that you can probably pick up at HD or Lowes .. spray it black. I believe some mounts will offer the ability to screw a 3/4" or 1" threaded rod into. The top end is likely going to have to be some kind of custom wood angled mount that's going to have to screw into a ceiling joist. If the bottom of it was flat, you could use a round threaded flange as the base and screw the top of the rod into it. (eg.http://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-3-4-i...-604/205955667). Just make sure your screws are capable of supporting the weight of the projector and rod .. bolts would be better.

The 45ES has the ability to zoom quite a bit .. are you sure you can't mount it on a back wall somehow? Or maybe create a fake beam going across the room that you could attach it to and run the cords inside it.

I only need up to 4ft long. But if i were to mount it on the back wall, I measured it and its about 20-24 feet away from my 133" screen. I ran this Projection Screen Calculator http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony...o.htm?add=9430 and it tells me 16.2 feet is the ideal distance from my size screen. But you are saying that the 45ES has good zoom? You think it will work from the wall?. The only concern i have is people easily getting in the way of the projector at that distance. From the ceiling about 16.2 feet away, its much harder for them to get in the way. Those are just my thoughts
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Blanco View Post
I only need up to 4ft long. But if i were to mount it on the back wall, I measured it and its about 20-24 feet away from my 133" screen. I ran this Projection Screen Calculator http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony...o.htm?add=9430 and it tells me 16.2 feet is the ideal distance from my size screen. But you are saying that the 45ES has good zoom? You think it will work from the wall?. The only concern i have is people easily getting in the way of the projector at that distance. From the ceiling about 16.2 feet away, its much harder for them to get in the way. Those are just my thoughts
Your projector will do a 133” 16:9 image from 13’1” to 20’10” That’s from the front of the lens to the screen. Those figures are theoretical and you should save a little just in case. Your image brightness will also drop about 1/3 being brightest at the closer distance.

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post #12 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Blanco View Post
I only need up to 4ft long. But if i were to mount it on the back wall, I measured it and its about 20-24 feet away from my 133" screen. I ran this Projection Screen Calculator http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony...o.htm?add=9430 and it tells me 16.2 feet is the ideal distance from my size screen. But you are saying that the 45ES has good zoom? You think it will work from the wall?. The only concern i have is people easily getting in the way of the projector at that distance. From the ceiling about 16.2 feet away, its much harder for them to get in the way. Those are just my thoughts
Well, there's no question that the further you are back, the fewer lumens you'll have on your screen especially with that large a screen size .. but if you went with a 1.3 gain screen instead of 1.0, the calculator says that the max distance that still gives "recommended image brightness in low ambient room" is about 20' 10" .. which is measured from the front of the lens so probably about about 22' from the back of the projector plus 6" or more behind it for ventilation so it's close to what you'd need. You'd probably wouldn't be able to use the lower brightness eco-mode bulb setting. But you could probably set it up for very little cost to check it out before going with a more costly ceiling install. I'm assuming you're going to be setting it up at about 8' off the floor and use vertical offset .. so people aren't going to bumping their heads on it but having the projector further back in the room is going to mean the bottom of the light beam is lower. But if my calculations are correct, the bottom of the beam at the 16' 2" mark is only down about 15" from the centerline .. ie. about 8'-1'3"=6'9" above the floor .. and anybody 6' or less in height wouldn't start blocking the beam until they were about 14' from the screen.

But I'm still questioning how you're going to run your cabling using a ceiling mount. You say it's only 4' up to the ceiling but then it's going to have to run down the cantilevered ceiling for approx half the room width; then down the wall; then maybe 16'2" to the front of the room where most people have their AVR; then across the front of the room to the AVR. So if your room is 12' wide, the HDMI cable is going to be about 4+7+8+16+6=41' which is pretty long and would definitely require active cables. You'd almost be better off having the AVR at the back of the room where the HDMI cable length would be about 4+7+8+(21-16)+6=30' which is still long .. and would require 30'+ runs for LCR speaker wiring.

No easy answers with this one

Ian

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post #13 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IanR View Post
Well, there's no question that the further you are back, the fewer lumens you'll have on your screen especially with that large a screen size .. but if you went with a 1.3 gain screen instead of 1.0, the calculator says that the max distance that still gives "recommended image brightness in low ambient room" is about 20' 10" .. which is measured from the front of the lens so probably about about 22' from the back of the projector plus 6" or more behind it for ventilation so it's close to what you'd need. You'd probably wouldn't be able to use the lower brightness eco-mode bulb setting. But you could probably set it up for very little cost to check it out before going with a more costly ceiling install. I'm assuming you're going to be setting it up at about 8' off the floor and use vertical offset .. so people aren't going to bumping their heads on it but having the projector further back in the room is going to mean the bottom of the light beam is lower. But if my calculations are correct, the bottom of the beam at the 16' 2" mark is only down about 15" from the centerline .. ie. about 8'-1'3"=6'9" above the floor .. and anybody 6' or less in height wouldn't start blocking the beam until they were about 14' from the screen.

But I'm still questioning how you're going to run your cabling using a ceiling mount. You say it's only 4' up to the ceiling but then it's going to have to run down the cantilevered ceiling for approx half the room width; then down the wall; then maybe 16'2" to the front of the room where most people have their AVR; then across the front of the room to the AVR. So if your room is 12' wide, the HDMI cable is going to be about 4+7+8+16+6=41' which is pretty long and would definitely require active cables. You'd almost be better off having the AVR at the back of the room where the HDMI cable length would be about 4+7+8+(21-16)+6=30' which is still long .. and would require 30'+ runs for LCR speaker wiring.

No easy answers with this one


Dont worry about the HDMI cable. I got that covered already. And my equipment is in the back in a closet about 6 feet away from where the projector will be if i mount it on the ceiling.

I really think i am going to go with a ceiling mount. I dont want to lose any brightness at all. The screen i have is an SI slate 8 zero edge so its great even in a bright room environment.
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
Here is mine with the black hockey tape and the chief mount setup.
In your picture, i dont see where you taped the wires to the pipe. Are they in the back?
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 11:24 AM
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In your picture, i dont see where you taped the wires to the pipe. Are they in the back?
I didn’t tape them in that photo or that setup but I have in other installs.

Mine are kind of looped as my projector is on a track that allows me to move the projector fore and aft. I also project backwards into a mirror so it is totally different than what you want. You can kind of see it in my avatar photo.

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post #16 of 17 Old 01-25-2017, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
I didn’t tape them in that photo or that setup but I have in other installs.

Mine are kind of looped as my projector is on a track that allows me to move the projector fore and aft. I also project backwards into a mirror so it is totally different than what you want. You can kind of see it in my avatar photo.
Off topic here but can you elaborate on what kind of track it is or part number. Thanks.
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post #17 of 17 Old 01-26-2017, 04:10 AM
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Off topic here but can you elaborate on what kind of track it is or part number. Thanks.
It was 100% DIY made from strips of plywood and all painted black. I’m working out a motorized version now that will also have a slope to it to give me the vertical offset and zoom at the same time. If I ever get that built I will make a thread about it.

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