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Quote:
Originally Posted by cndondi
... My question is if anyone else has found a way to play the 3d disk or heard about an upcoming firmware update that will allow 3d? ...
By the way nice find on the audible sound/ground-loop association as it may save some owners the trouble of sending in a working unit.
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UHD65 Calibrating better contrast/depth
I've been using a new UHD65 for two weeks now. I don't have a screen yet but have tried out various screen samples from Carl's. I'll likely buy an fixed frame Elite Screens Aeon 100" model when they're back in stock locally. My viewing has resulted in a material selection between a White 1.1 gain or a Grey 1.0 gain material (as specified on Carl's web site). The ALR material just seemed darker than the Grey without any discernible contrast/depth improvement.
Here are my observations after testing the samples side by side over day and night conditions, with lights on/off/dimmed and black out curtains fully closed or partially opened. I've not done any serious calibrations yet as I am currently projecting on a beige wall while deciding on the screen material. Currently I've only slightly modified the out-of-the-box Cinema settings.
What I'm inviting comment on is can the UHD65 be calibrated to address the washout effect of a White 1.1 gain material?
As of right now I feel I can forgive the Gray material's blue shift, in bright scenes, more readily than I can the White's washout effect which I seem to see almost all of the time. I'd be disappointed if I bought a Grey material screen just to find out that I could have calibrated a White screen and dealt with the washout effect while avoiding the blue shift.
As an aside, my unit's fan noise is tolerable even without audio playing. Every once in a while I'll notice it as a low background hum which occasionally fluctuates but its nothing that bothers me.
I've also noticed the 4K shift's light border and while it is a measured 2" (top/bottom) and less on each side, I've not found it a distraction even during pitch black viewing. That is why I'm sticking to an edge less/thin bezel screen which I aesthetically like a lot more than thick bezels.
In case your wondering I read all the posts in this thread and multiple Grey Vs White articles. My post here is about the UHD65's ability to be calibrated to come close to the Gray's contrast/depth while retaining the more accurate colors that a White material displays.
Thanks to anyone commenting, much appreciated.
Here are my observations after testing the samples side by side over day and night conditions, with lights on/off/dimmed and black out curtains fully closed or partially opened. I've not done any serious calibrations yet as I am currently projecting on a beige wall while deciding on the screen material. Currently I've only slightly modified the out-of-the-box Cinema settings.
- White (1.1 gain) is by far the most accurate seeming like a window BUT on completely black scenes (e.g. in space) has a contrast issue (an annoying washed out look)
- Gray (~1.0 gain) is like wearing polarized sun glasses with a slight blue shift during white/bright scenes BUT enhances contrast/depth in dark scenes. Faint background stars in space are clearly seen while the White material all but washes them out.
- These observations seem consistent whether viewing up-scaled 1080i (cable), 1080p or even streamed passthu 4K [email protected] sources. Most of my usual content takes advantage of the impression that the Gray material improves contrast/depth.
What I'm inviting comment on is can the UHD65 be calibrated to address the washout effect of a White 1.1 gain material?
As of right now I feel I can forgive the Gray material's blue shift, in bright scenes, more readily than I can the White's washout effect which I seem to see almost all of the time. I'd be disappointed if I bought a Grey material screen just to find out that I could have calibrated a White screen and dealt with the washout effect while avoiding the blue shift.
As an aside, my unit's fan noise is tolerable even without audio playing. Every once in a while I'll notice it as a low background hum which occasionally fluctuates but its nothing that bothers me.
I've also noticed the 4K shift's light border and while it is a measured 2" (top/bottom) and less on each side, I've not found it a distraction even during pitch black viewing. That is why I'm sticking to an edge less/thin bezel screen which I aesthetically like a lot more than thick bezels.
In case your wondering I read all the posts in this thread and multiple Grey Vs White articles. My post here is about the UHD65's ability to be calibrated to come close to the Gray's contrast/depth while retaining the more accurate colors that a White material displays.
Thanks to anyone commenting, much appreciated.
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So, I just picked up my Optoma UHD60 about 4 days ago. This was an upgrade from an older Mitsubishi 1080 unit that had a bulb at the end of its life.
I am having some trouble finding some good settings on it to take advantage of its 4k HDR capabilities while retaining good streaming settings. When I play my 4k HDR movie, I can adjust the settings and make it look good to me, however when I go back to streaming Netflix and watching something darker such as The Walking Dead, it looks to dark or grainy. One of the biggest differences seem to be if I select the HDR setting to on or not.
Is there a good setting list someone can give me to try out that may help me for my initial setup here? My room has no ambient light in it, and I have 147 diagonal grey screen. I have the tint to "grey" but could adjust it to whatever is reccomended.
Im just trying to get the best of both worlds without having to go into my settings and constantly adjust several different settings depending on what I am watching.
I am having some trouble finding some good settings on it to take advantage of its 4k HDR capabilities while retaining good streaming settings. When I play my 4k HDR movie, I can adjust the settings and make it look good to me, however when I go back to streaming Netflix and watching something darker such as The Walking Dead, it looks to dark or grainy. One of the biggest differences seem to be if I select the HDR setting to on or not.
Is there a good setting list someone can give me to try out that may help me for my initial setup here? My room has no ambient light in it, and I have 147 diagonal grey screen. I have the tint to "grey" but could adjust it to whatever is reccomended.
Im just trying to get the best of both worlds without having to go into my settings and constantly adjust several different settings depending on what I am watching.
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UHD60 HDR can vary based on what content you watch . For example, i am mostly watching 4K HDR movie discs, most are hdr10; some are dolby vision that default to hdr10.
Movies and games vary on how much "HDR" is provided. HDR10 is like 1000 nits, and DolbyVision can go to 3000 nits and upwards to 10,000 nits.
The UHD60 is 3000 lumens; which might roughly translate to 300 nits; so you can see that the projector has to tone map its capabilities from the HDR signal.
There wont' be a magic setting; but this is what i do:
Most HDR games on xbox and PS4 look too strong; so i play 2160p/SDR and it still looks incredible.
HDR movies vary in how dark or light the HDR is, so i do this: HDR is set to auto, standard. I turn Dynamic Black OFF, and then watch in Vivid or HDR mode. That seems to make HDR as bright and visible as the UHD60 can present; and then if that is still too dim for you, switch your content to 2160p/SDR and it will still look really good!
I just wached MissionImpossible6 Fallout 4k HDR last night, and it looked great! another good disc is TransformersLastKnight; the imagery is really sharp and impressive!
Movies and games vary on how much "HDR" is provided. HDR10 is like 1000 nits, and DolbyVision can go to 3000 nits and upwards to 10,000 nits.
The UHD60 is 3000 lumens; which might roughly translate to 300 nits; so you can see that the projector has to tone map its capabilities from the HDR signal.
There wont' be a magic setting; but this is what i do:
Most HDR games on xbox and PS4 look too strong; so i play 2160p/SDR and it still looks incredible.
HDR movies vary in how dark or light the HDR is, so i do this: HDR is set to auto, standard. I turn Dynamic Black OFF, and then watch in Vivid or HDR mode. That seems to make HDR as bright and visible as the UHD60 can present; and then if that is still too dim for you, switch your content to 2160p/SDR and it will still look really good!
I just wached MissionImpossible6 Fallout 4k HDR last night, and it looked great! another good disc is TransformersLastKnight; the imagery is really sharp and impressive!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cndondi
I recently aquired the uhd65 when my Epson 5030 lost its hdmi inputs. Since I wanted to upgrade to 4k I found that new pjs with the TI chipset were both affordable and highly rated. I have been very happy with this unit except for the lack of 3d capability. Elsewhere in this thread I found information that with firmwear c13 the uhd65 will play 3d from a pc using sview software. Maybe it will play a 3d file but I can find no way to play a blueray disk (my pc has a blueray player). On a side note a 3d disk will play after you get the message that you don't have 3d equipment. The image is normal 2d. I wonder if the 4k conversion is somehow combining the 3d image? At any rate it is nice that you can still use your 3d disks. My question is if anyone else has found a way to play the 3d disk or heard about an upcoming firmware update that will allow 3d? On a side note I also had the loud hum. This is caused by a ground loop. I isolated the ground on the projector and it went away.
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Optoma UHD60, Amazon FireTV 3rd Gen, and 24Hz
Hi,
Just finished installing my Optoma UHD60, and I have got to say that it is awesome! I have an amazon FireTV 3rd gen (Pendant) plugged into a Vizio Atmos Soundbar, and from there to the projector, and it is all working flawlessly.
One thing I can't get working though is the "Automatic Video Frame Rate Matching". For those not familiar, this allows the FireTV to output 24Hz content directly at 24Hz. From what I read, the projector should support 24Hz, and I have seen a couple of comments about people achieving that (although I am not sure if the projector actually outputs at 24Hz as well in those cases, or just upsamples to 60Hz). The FireTV only shows 60Hz and 50Hz in the display options, and when I try the FireTV "Output format test mode", I get no signal for 24Hz modes.
So first question - is this actually worth it with the FireTV/UHD60 setup? i.e. does it give video with less judder due to removing the 3:2 pulldown? Or does it just move where the 24Hz->60Hz upsampling is done?
And second question if the answer is "yes" to the first - what is the trick to getting it working?
Regards,
Chris.
Just finished installing my Optoma UHD60, and I have got to say that it is awesome! I have an amazon FireTV 3rd gen (Pendant) plugged into a Vizio Atmos Soundbar, and from there to the projector, and it is all working flawlessly.
One thing I can't get working though is the "Automatic Video Frame Rate Matching". For those not familiar, this allows the FireTV to output 24Hz content directly at 24Hz. From what I read, the projector should support 24Hz, and I have seen a couple of comments about people achieving that (although I am not sure if the projector actually outputs at 24Hz as well in those cases, or just upsamples to 60Hz). The FireTV only shows 60Hz and 50Hz in the display options, and when I try the FireTV "Output format test mode", I get no signal for 24Hz modes.
So first question - is this actually worth it with the FireTV/UHD60 setup? i.e. does it give video with less judder due to removing the 3:2 pulldown? Or does it just move where the 24Hz->60Hz upsampling is done?
And second question if the answer is "yes" to the first - what is the trick to getting it working?
Regards,
Chris.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DSammy
I've been using a new UHD65 for two weeks now. I don't have a screen yet but have tried out various screen samples from Carl's. I'll likely buy an fixed frame Elite Screens Aeon 100" model when they're back in stock locally. My viewing has resulted in a material selection between a White 1.1 gain or a Grey 1.0 gain material (as specified on Carl's web site). The ALR material just seemed darker than the Grey without any discernible contrast/depth improvement.
Here are my observations after testing the samples side by side over day and night conditions, with lights on/off/dimmed and black out curtains fully closed or partially opened. I've not done any serious calibrations yet as I am currently projecting on a beige wall while deciding on the screen material. Currently I've only slightly modified the out-of-the-box Cinema settings.
What I'm inviting comment on is can the UHD65 be calibrated to address the washout effect of a White 1.1 gain material?
As of right now I feel I can forgive the Gray material's blue shift, in bright scenes, more readily than I can the White's washout effect which I seem to see almost all of the time. I'd be disappointed if I bought a Grey material screen just to find out that I could have calibrated a White screen and dealt with the washout effect while avoiding the blue shift.
As an aside, my unit's fan noise is tolerable even without audio playing. Every once in a while I'll notice it as a low background hum which occasionally fluctuates but its nothing that bothers me.
I've also noticed the 4K shift's light border and while it is a measured 2" (top/bottom) and less on each side, I've not found it a distraction even during pitch black viewing. That is why I'm sticking to an edge less/thin bezel screen which I aesthetically like a lot more than thick bezels.
In case your wondering I read all the posts in this thread and multiple Grey Vs White articles. My post here is about the UHD65's ability to be calibrated to come close to the Gray's contrast/depth while retaining the more accurate colors that a White material displays.
Thanks to anyone commenting, much appreciated.
Here are my observations after testing the samples side by side over day and night conditions, with lights on/off/dimmed and black out curtains fully closed or partially opened. I've not done any serious calibrations yet as I am currently projecting on a beige wall while deciding on the screen material. Currently I've only slightly modified the out-of-the-box Cinema settings.
- White (1.1 gain) is by far the most accurate seeming like a window BUT on completely black scenes (e.g. in space) has a contrast issue (an annoying washed out look)
- Gray (~1.0 gain) is like wearing polarized sun glasses with a slight blue shift during white/bright scenes BUT enhances contrast/depth in dark scenes. Faint background stars in space are clearly seen while the White material all but washes them out.
- These observations seem consistent whether viewing up-scaled 1080i (cable), 1080p or even streamed passthu 4K [email protected] sources. Most of my usual content takes advantage of the impression that the Gray material improves contrast/depth.
What I'm inviting comment on is can the UHD65 be calibrated to address the washout effect of a White 1.1 gain material?
As of right now I feel I can forgive the Gray material's blue shift, in bright scenes, more readily than I can the White's washout effect which I seem to see almost all of the time. I'd be disappointed if I bought a Grey material screen just to find out that I could have calibrated a White screen and dealt with the washout effect while avoiding the blue shift.
As an aside, my unit's fan noise is tolerable even without audio playing. Every once in a while I'll notice it as a low background hum which occasionally fluctuates but its nothing that bothers me.
I've also noticed the 4K shift's light border and while it is a measured 2" (top/bottom) and less on each side, I've not found it a distraction even during pitch black viewing. That is why I'm sticking to an edge less/thin bezel screen which I aesthetically like a lot more than thick bezels.
In case your wondering I read all the posts in this thread and multiple Grey Vs White articles. My post here is about the UHD65's ability to be calibrated to come close to the Gray's contrast/depth while retaining the more accurate colors that a White material displays.
Thanks to anyone commenting, much appreciated.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentKnight
What 4k blu ray player do you guys recommend to go with the Optoma UHD65? I currently have it paired with the Sony UBP-X800 that I had before purchasing the projector. I have heard that the Optoma UHD65 and the Sony blu ray player aren't great together. Does anyone have suggestions besides the Oppo?
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Apologies in advance if this has been covered previously. I've had my UHD60 for about 2 weeks now. Still have yet to hang a screen, because I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the projector. One of my major frustrations seems to be a visual blow out of whites. It looks like all detail is lost, and there is almost a sparkling effect. Cyan/Pink/Green can be seen around the edges, it honestly kind of looks like a CGA monitor from way back in the days. I've been suspecting it was HDMI, but I'm now on my 3rd HDMI cable. This latest one being a 50ft RUIPRO fiber cable. I've observed this issue both on 1080p Bluray and Netflix playback. Source is always a PS4 thus far. I've also observed another frustrating phenomenon which is weird circular almost rings? Haven't seen that as much so it's not driving me as crazy, but I dont think it's my source material...
I'm attaching some photos but realize the detail might be hard to see. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Previously have owned a BenQ W1070 so I'm not too unfamiliar with what to expect...Thanks in advance!
I'm attaching some photos but realize the detail might be hard to see. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Previously have owned a BenQ W1070 so I'm not too unfamiliar with what to expect...Thanks in advance!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]
Hi,
Just finished installing my Optoma UHD60, and I have got to say that it is awesome! I have an amazon FireTV 3rd gen (Pendant) plugged into a Vizio Atmos Soundbar, and from there to the projector, and it is all working flawlessly.
One thing I can't get working though is the "Automatic Video Frame Rate Matching". For those not familiar, this allows the FireTV to output 24Hz content directly at 24Hz. From what I read, the projector should support 24Hz, and I have seen a couple of comments about people achieving that (although I am not sure if the projector actually outputs at 24Hz as well in those cases, or just upsamples to 60Hz). The FireTV only shows 60Hz and 50Hz in the display options, and when I try the FireTV "Output format test mode", I get no signal for 24Hz modes.
So first question - is this actually worth it with the FireTV/UHD60 setup? i.e. does it give video with less judder due to removing the 3:2 pulldown? Or does it just move where the 24Hz->60Hz upsampling is done?
And second question if the answer is "yes" to the first - what is the trick to getting it working?
Regards,
Chris.
Just finished installing my Optoma UHD60, and I have got to say that it is awesome! I have an amazon FireTV 3rd gen (Pendant) plugged into a Vizio Atmos Soundbar, and from there to the projector, and it is all working flawlessly.
One thing I can't get working though is the "Automatic Video Frame Rate Matching". For those not familiar, this allows the FireTV to output 24Hz content directly at 24Hz. From what I read, the projector should support 24Hz, and I have seen a couple of comments about people achieving that (although I am not sure if the projector actually outputs at 24Hz as well in those cases, or just upsamples to 60Hz). The FireTV only shows 60Hz and 50Hz in the display options, and when I try the FireTV "Output format test mode", I get no signal for 24Hz modes.
So first question - is this actually worth it with the FireTV/UHD60 setup? i.e. does it give video with less judder due to removing the 3:2 pulldown? Or does it just move where the 24Hz->60Hz upsampling is done?
And second question if the answer is "yes" to the first - what is the trick to getting it working?
Regards,
Chris.
I have the same Fire TV on a UHD60. MrMc does shift to 24hz on 4K HDR sources and PrimeVideo shifts correctly. HDR flagging occurs as expected. What application are you using for video playback?
This is all duplicated on a Shield TV. I see no difference between the Fire TV and my Shield TV using the same apps. cj
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Just received my UHD60 yesterday. I turned it on this morning and the power button blinked blue three times then it was a solid red. The bulb also was a solid red. I am assuming my projector has a bulb that already needs to be replaced? Is there anything else I need to check? Amazon is already in the process of sending me a replacement projector. This was frustrating, of course
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjeman
I have the same Fire TV on a UHD60. MrMc does shift to 24hz on 4K HDR sources and PrimeVideo shifts correctly. HDR flagging occurs as expected. What application are you using for video playback?
This is all duplicated on a Shield TV. I see no difference between the Fire TV and my Shield TV using the same apps. cj
This is all duplicated on a Shield TV. I see no difference between the Fire TV and my Shield TV using the same apps. cj
Just to make sure I understand, when you go to the UHD60 info menu, you see "Refresh Rate" listing 24Hz when viewing 24Hz content, right?
A further question for you. When you go to "Settings/Display & Sounds/Display/Video Resolution", do you see other refresh rates aside from 60Hz and 50Hz listed in the available resolutions list (under Auto)?
I am running the FireTV through the Soundbar to the projector - I may try connecting the FireTV directly to the projector to see if that is the culprit.
Regards,
Chris.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]
I am running the FireTV through the Soundbar to the projector - I may try connecting the FireTV directly to the projector to see if that is the culprit.
Regards,
Chris.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gjlaplante
I asked a similar question on the calibration forum. Someone responded that I needed to set the Y for my screen offset. Tyler Pruit from spectracal responded that it no longer needed to be done IF you used BT2390 gamma formula to calibrate projectors, which I did.
Thanks
Rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlohr
Can you share how you did that adjustment? I am getting a similar washout. I only am able to see the first few bars (234) on the Spears and Munsil contrast screen.
Thanks
Rick
Thanks
Rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gjlaplante
The BT2390 formula was used to calibrate in Calman Home Enthusiast Software. As far as the Contrast setting, I experienced the same thing trying to set it. ProjectorReviews.com even had a small write up specifically about this issue that they were not able to set anything higher than 232 before the UHD65 would clip. So they left it set at "0".
Rick
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Had my UHD60 installed and there is a constant buzzing sound coming from it. Not sure if that is the regular fan noise or not. Anybody have any thoughts?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlee94513
Had my UHD60 installed and there is a constant buzzing sound coming from it. Not sure if that is the regular fan noise or not. Anybody have any thoughts?
Rick
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I might be looking to upgrade my sony 45es, I watch movies and game mostly, is the contrast and black levels similar? how is the lag? do you think I can get a larger picture from the same throw distance with the Optoma. My sony is very good in these areas.
Last edited by david8613; 01-07-2019 at 05:46 AM.
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This has been covered way back. Just search my username in this thread and keep going back in time. I believe I harped on it the most and didn't really get a whole lot of feedback.
For my UHD60, it seemed every Color setting was just over doing it. This was especially true for BrilliantColor.
With the issue you are showing in the photos, I totally resolved it for me and the various materials and sources I saw it in. I got a UHD51A for 3D around May 14th of last year but I did manage to take some screen shots of my HD60's picture settings before taking it down (still have it).
Just note that the settings were to address the issue in the photos you provide. Not the rings you are referring to or the issue with bright whites clipping as mentioned in the few posts above. The settings below were before I tried to tackle the Contrast of the image: still had issue with bright whites when I took the UHD60 down.
The UHD51A didn't have issue with BrilliantColor set to the default of 10 and bright whites aren't clipped as bad, i.e. scenes that appeared washed out white on the UHD60 were OK on the UHD51A.
If you see anymore color solarization, try setting the source (PS4 Pro, whatever) to 4:2:0 or force 4:2:0 instead of 4:2:2.
Note that despite the very low settings below, I still got a great, colorful image:
Display Mode: HDR
Wall Color: Off
Dynamic Range >
Brightness: 0
Contrast: 0
Sharpness: 8
Color: 0 (the default 23 had severe red push at the high bright red end of the spectrum)
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.0
Color Settings >
BrilliantColor: 2 (tried 0, 3 brought the visual issue back for me in the most extreme source materials, only at 2 would the issue go away in all source material and sources)
Color Temperature: D65
Color Gamut: Cinema
CMS > defaults
RGB Gain/Bias> defaults
Color Space: Auto
UltraDetail: Off (I miss this, with the UHD51A the UltraDetail can't be turned off and is apart of Sharpness)
Dynamic Black: On (I believe this to be correct, I usually had it off and resets change settings back to default but with the other settings above maybe I was able to finally use it)
For my UHD60, it seemed every Color setting was just over doing it. This was especially true for BrilliantColor.
With the issue you are showing in the photos, I totally resolved it for me and the various materials and sources I saw it in. I got a UHD51A for 3D around May 14th of last year but I did manage to take some screen shots of my HD60's picture settings before taking it down (still have it).
Just note that the settings were to address the issue in the photos you provide. Not the rings you are referring to or the issue with bright whites clipping as mentioned in the few posts above. The settings below were before I tried to tackle the Contrast of the image: still had issue with bright whites when I took the UHD60 down.
The UHD51A didn't have issue with BrilliantColor set to the default of 10 and bright whites aren't clipped as bad, i.e. scenes that appeared washed out white on the UHD60 were OK on the UHD51A.
If you see anymore color solarization, try setting the source (PS4 Pro, whatever) to 4:2:0 or force 4:2:0 instead of 4:2:2.
Note that despite the very low settings below, I still got a great, colorful image:
Display Mode: HDR
Wall Color: Off
Dynamic Range >
Brightness: 0
Contrast: 0
Sharpness: 8
Color: 0 (the default 23 had severe red push at the high bright red end of the spectrum)
Tint: 0
Gamma: 2.0
Color Settings >
BrilliantColor: 2 (tried 0, 3 brought the visual issue back for me in the most extreme source materials, only at 2 would the issue go away in all source material and sources)
Color Temperature: D65
Color Gamut: Cinema
CMS > defaults
RGB Gain/Bias> defaults
Color Space: Auto
UltraDetail: Off (I miss this, with the UHD51A the UltraDetail can't be turned off and is apart of Sharpness)
Dynamic Black: On (I believe this to be correct, I usually had it off and resets change settings back to default but with the other settings above maybe I was able to finally use it)
Quote:
Originally Posted by aa2300
Apologies in advance if this has been covered previously. I've had my UHD60 for about 2 weeks now. Still have yet to hang a screen, because I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the projector. One of my major frustrations seems to be a visual blow out of whites. It looks like all detail is lost, and there is almost a sparkling effect. Cyan/Pink/Green can be seen around the edges, it honestly kind of looks like a CGA monitor from way back in the days. I've been suspecting it was HDMI, but I'm now on my 3rd HDMI cable. This latest one being a 50ft RUIPRO fiber cable. I've observed this issue both on 1080p Bluray and Netflix playback. Source is always a PS4 thus far. I've also observed another frustrating phenomenon which is weird circular almost rings? Haven't seen that as much so it's not driving me as crazy, but I dont think it's my source material...
I'm attaching some photos but realize the detail might be hard to see. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Previously have owned a BenQ W1070 so I'm not too unfamiliar with what to expect...Thanks in advance!
I'm attaching some photos but realize the detail might be hard to see. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Previously have owned a BenQ W1070 so I'm not too unfamiliar with what to expect...Thanks in advance!
Display: Optoma UHD51A Projector > Elite Screens R135WH1 ezFrame | 7.2.4 Audio: Onkyo TX-RZ920 9.2ch Network A/V Receiver, M-5010 2ch Amplifier; Definitive Technology ProCenter 2000, ProMonitor 1000(x10), SuperCube I & 4000 | Sources: PC, DirecTV, Apple 4K, Fire Stick 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Chromecast & Roku Ultras, Xbox One X, PlayStation 4 Pro & Nintendo Switch | Remote: Harmony Elite | HDMI: 40' Monoprice DynamicView+4x1 Switch
Last edited by Wesley Hester; 01-07-2019 at 12:21 PM. Reason: More information added.
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hello all:
i have a question for the uhd65 owners.
i just bought the uhd65 one week ago (OPTOMA factory refurb) and i have an older 11.2 channel avr,with an roku ultimate hooked up for testing.
my problem is lip sync issues and copy protection and i have a problem when switching movie resolutions and formats(hdr 4k to 1080p)
lets start with when the pj is connected directly to the roku using the optical out and set at 4k/60 it takes the pj a long time to sync to the movie source resolution and then the audio sync will be off by quite a bit.
next i connect through the older onkyo 11.2 avr and set the avr to pass through for video now i can correct the lip sync issues but since the avr does not support the newer copy protection i can only run at 1080p.
the biggest thing that i'm worried about is the projector seems to be showing signs of a bad color wheel or dirty color wheel censor /slow to stabilize on sources and audio sync.
maybe i am over analyzing the projector because of past experiences with dlp color wheels.
if this is the nature of this projector is there a decent hdmi switcher out there that has two hdmi outputs that would allow me to run one hdmi to the avr and one hdmi to the projector that wont cause me copy protection issues and will allow full full resolutions and hdr content?
i wish i could get a service manual so i could look up the part number for the color wheel to price it.
i have a question for the uhd65 owners.
i just bought the uhd65 one week ago (OPTOMA factory refurb) and i have an older 11.2 channel avr,with an roku ultimate hooked up for testing.
my problem is lip sync issues and copy protection and i have a problem when switching movie resolutions and formats(hdr 4k to 1080p)
lets start with when the pj is connected directly to the roku using the optical out and set at 4k/60 it takes the pj a long time to sync to the movie source resolution and then the audio sync will be off by quite a bit.
next i connect through the older onkyo 11.2 avr and set the avr to pass through for video now i can correct the lip sync issues but since the avr does not support the newer copy protection i can only run at 1080p.
the biggest thing that i'm worried about is the projector seems to be showing signs of a bad color wheel or dirty color wheel censor /slow to stabilize on sources and audio sync.
maybe i am over analyzing the projector because of past experiences with dlp color wheels.
if this is the nature of this projector is there a decent hdmi switcher out there that has two hdmi outputs that would allow me to run one hdmi to the avr and one hdmi to the projector that wont cause me copy protection issues and will allow full full resolutions and hdr content?
i wish i could get a service manual so i could look up the part number for the color wheel to price it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlee94513
Had my UHD60 installed and there is a constant buzzing sound coming from it. Not sure if that is the regular fan noise or not. Anybody have any thoughts?
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How is the uhd65 for gaming? Is the lag noticeable? I'm currently using an 82" samsung nu8000 and a sony 45es projector both with very low lag, both in the 20s but I hear the uhd65 lag is in the 60s.
Last edited by david8613; 01-08-2019 at 04:39 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david8613
How is the uhd65 for gaming? Is the lag noticeable? I'm currently using an 82" samsung nu8000 and a sony 45es projector both with very low lag, both in the 20s but I hear the uhd65 lag is the 60s.
Rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sambou812
... i just bought the uhd65 one week ago (OPTOMA factory refurb) and i have an older 11.2 channel avr,with an roku ultimate hooked up for testing.
my problem is lip sync issues and copy protection and i have a problem when switching movie resolutions and formats(hdr 4k to 1080p) ....
my problem is lip sync issues and copy protection and i have a problem when switching movie resolutions and formats(hdr 4k to 1080p) ....
[email protected] HDMI Switch 3x1 with Optical SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out, FiveHome 3 In 1 Out HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter with Remote, Supports ARC, 4Kx2K, Ultra HD
RUIPRO HDMI Fiber Cable 50 feet Light High Speed Support 18.2 Gbps 4K at 60Hz HDMI 2.0 Subsampling 4:4:4/4:2:2/4:2:0 Slim and Flexible With Optic Technology 15m
To the HDMI switch I connected the Roku Ultra and the Onkyo. The Onkyo has as inputs a PC at [email protected] through a Display port adapter, STB (cable HDTV), PS3 (just as a Blu ray player). The Onkyo out is set for 4K (upscaling). I found that with the Onkyo upscales the STB's 1080i video better than the UHD65. I use the Onkyo's "Picture Adjustment" settings for the PC to save having to use one of the UHD65's User profiles. I get better PC brightness/contrast/... etc controls from the Onkyo than from the Linux Mint OS although that may just be I haven't tried hard enough.
I attached the HDMI's switches Optical out to one of the Onkyo's Optical inputs and do not experience any lip sync issues. Be aware that SPDIF optical does not support all the surround formats (e.g. TRUE Dolby) but I only have a 5.1 surround system anyway. The HDMI switch was easily integrated with my Logitech Harmony Hub so moving from source to source using the Harmony Hubs phone app is a breeze. So adding the HDMI switch became seamless.
I could have run the PC directly to the switch to get [email protected] but found it had sync issues from time to time. I suspect with a little Horizontal/Vertical tuning on the UHD65 I could have reached stability. I haven't had the time to play enough with the PC's video settings yet but intend on adding [email protected] for 3D at some point. I doubt that the sync issues are HDMI switch related as eveything else is stable.
With this setup the Roku Ultra passes all of the 4K UHD HDR HDCP tests and can make the UHD65 shine. As advised in this thread I have the Roku Ultra set at 4:2:0 but never tried the 4:2:2 alternative as I still have much tweaking to do.
Hopefully you will find my experiences helpful.
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thanks for the reply,
i have decided to send this refurbished projector back and get a new one, as i did a de-focus test and there is a boat load of dust inside.
i do appreciate the advise but i was looking for a solution that involved sending full bandwidth audio to the avr via hdmi and video straight to the uhd65 i may just buy an new prepro of some sort and be done with it.
i just noticed i typed 11.2 onkyo its an 9.2 lol as i looking at new 11.2 channel receivers while i was trying to find a solution to my problems.
i would like to get the procedure for entering the service menu for future reference.
as i wasn't able to find it in the forums or on the web.
i have decided to send this refurbished projector back and get a new one, as i did a de-focus test and there is a boat load of dust inside.
i do appreciate the advise but i was looking for a solution that involved sending full bandwidth audio to the avr via hdmi and video straight to the uhd65 i may just buy an new prepro of some sort and be done with it.
i just noticed i typed 11.2 onkyo its an 9.2 lol as i looking at new 11.2 channel receivers while i was trying to find a solution to my problems.
i would like to get the procedure for entering the service menu for future reference.
as i wasn't able to find it in the forums or on the web.
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Hi everyone, new guy here.
I have a UHD60 as well, I use it for normal TV with my Direct TV thats in 1080. It does run thru my cheap sony receiver that "upscales" it but the projector still shows it at [email protected] I did buy the Marseille Networks mCable Cinema Edition thats suppose to upscale it but it still says its [email protected] It might be a tad better picture but not worth the money.
Have you guys found anything that can run inline that actually upscales it and the projector sees it? I also use the projector for a "2nd monitor" for movies which i have the resolution cranked up to 4096x2160 and it works fine.
Thanks...
I have a UHD60 as well, I use it for normal TV with my Direct TV thats in 1080. It does run thru my cheap sony receiver that "upscales" it but the projector still shows it at [email protected] I did buy the Marseille Networks mCable Cinema Edition thats suppose to upscale it but it still says its [email protected] It might be a tad better picture but not worth the money.
Have you guys found anything that can run inline that actually upscales it and the projector sees it? I also use the projector for a "2nd monitor" for movies which i have the resolution cranked up to 4096x2160 and it works fine.
Thanks...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aa2300
Apologies in advance if this has been covered previously. I've had my UHD60 for about 2 weeks now. Still have yet to hang a screen, because I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the projector. One of my major frustrations seems to be a visual blow out of whites. It looks like all detail is lost, and there is almost a sparkling effect. Cyan/Pink/Green can be seen around the edges, it honestly kind of looks like a CGA monitor from way back in the days. I've been suspecting it was HDMI, but I'm now on my 3rd HDMI cable. This latest one being a 50ft RUIPRO fiber cable. I've observed this issue both on 1080p Bluray and Netflix playback. Source is always a PS4 thus far. I've also observed another frustrating phenomenon which is weird circular almost rings? Haven't seen that as much so it's not driving me as crazy, but I dont think it's my source material...
I'm attaching some photos but realize the detail might be hard to see. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Previously have owned a BenQ W1070 so I'm not too unfamiliar with what to expect...Thanks in advance!
I'm attaching some photos but realize the detail might be hard to see. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Previously have owned a BenQ W1070 so I'm not too unfamiliar with what to expect...Thanks in advance!
The artifact you see is something many of us have discussed on this thread; myself included! i am on uhd60. This color artifact is related to both the projector, its settings, and your content. This is the easiest way to eliminate it: Turn off "dynamic black" this should eliminate it most all. If you still see it; you can decrease BrilliantColor from 10max downwards until it disappears.
If you are watching older 35mm scanned movies films, anything pre-1995; you might see this artifact. most of newer 35mm films post 1995 and digital shot from the 2000s through today; this visual artifact doesn't show up as much if at all.
I watch all 4k UHDs from 2007 to today; and i never see it. If you watch the StarWars blu rays of Episode 4,5,6; the artifact will show up and you have to turn off dynamic black and decrease brilliant color.
Cinema mode also helps.
Thanks!
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Hi,
I just received my new UHD60 but I've a problem.. when I turn it on it makes a continuous loud noise (the color wheel?) and it never stops... is it normal?
I made a video but I can't post it..
I just received my new UHD60 but I've a problem.. when I turn it on it makes a continuous loud noise (the color wheel?) and it never stops... is it normal?
I made a video but I can't post it..
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