Optoma UHD60/65 Owners Thread - Page 117 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3481 of 3506 Old 12-24-2019, 12:44 PM
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just a reminder, anyone wanting to watch 4K UHD movie discs on the UHD60/65; get a really great Panasonic UB820 or 420; HDR tone mapping and HDR optimizer make your movies look amazing! both players on sale at best buy now.
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post #3482 of 3506 Old 12-31-2019, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nidios View Post
Firmware version C15.
The GPU is an AMD Radeon RX480 with the latest official drivers.
If you keep the frequency at 24Hz you have enough bandwidth to get any color space in YUV 12 bit 4: 4: 4 rec2020.
The Vp with any signal you put I recognize it in the same way.

As a player I use PLEX but of course HDR must be forced from the "screen" control panel of windows.

The result is not bad, I can also adjust the brightness of the windows HDR but maybe it burns the details on the highlights.

I find more correct as the HDR represents the Nvidia Shield that Win10 (always PLEX), but in HTPC with 12bit 4: 4: 4 rec.2020 the nuances are all there.

Now I have a resolution problem, I had to make a resolution on purpose because I have the screen in 2: 1 format (3840x1920) and with this resolution in YUV the videos shoot.

Using an HTPC as a player is hell .....

Fabio

I just tried the same settings you posted, but with my nVidia GT1030 GPU instead of your AMD.
I set it to 24 Hz and 12 bit . Then I enabled HDR color in Windows. The entire desktop became very dull and very dark - to the point of being nearly unreadable. This has always been the case every time I tried to enable HDR in Windows 10.



The projector's menu also is not displaying the color space or color bits like yours are. My projector is only on C08, the original firmware for the UHD65. I didn't know there was a C15. It looks like Optoma must have fixed a lot of things in the newer firmware. This may be enough motivation to get it upgraded.


That said, my receiver has a screen which shows the HDMI signal information. It shows indeed that the color space got changed to BT.2020 when enabling HDR in Windows , with RGB 12 bit color.



That said, I don't have any problem playing HDR movies from my Sony UBP-X800 . The receiver says the signal is BT.2020 YbCbCr 12 bit, though the picture is somewhat darker than it could be. It is perfectly watchable, though, unlike my Windows desktop in HDR mode.
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post #3483 of 3506 Old 12-31-2019, 02:23 PM
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My First post here! Long time owner “don’t laugh, ok point and laugh” of a mistu hc1500, I have kept it going for quite some time and have recently replaced the color wheel w an eBay one, the segments are not identical so my color is crap, time for upgrade the case is brittle from the heat of the bulb and age, no keeping that top spinning any longer, I’m really intrigued at the uhd60 for price and all around use strengths, i zeroed in on an epson for 3chip tech but the huuuuge amount of power supply failures is a big turn off, these Optomas seemed to have an early on HDMI port issue, which I’m hoping by now is resolved, plus ppl chimed in how Optoma repaired/replaced pretty easily, my real question here to you all is, light bleed/color uniformity, I plan to run a desktop win 10, gtx1060 6gb on this as you can picture, the icons are on the corners, will there be noticeable loss of sharpness on the corners like this? I can’t find any examples of a desktop background image on YouTube but I do read and hear about edge clarity could be better, thanks! Will also be looking at the Nvidia sheild pro to handle the 4K media to get the most out of it, but mostly use my desktop to steam all my media,
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post #3484 of 3506 Old 01-01-2020, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbrain View Post
I just tried the same settings you posted, but with my nVidia GT1030 GPU instead of your AMD.
I set it to 24 Hz and 12 bit . Then I enabled HDR color in Windows. The entire desktop became very dull and very dark - to the point of being nearly unreadable. This has always been the case every time I tried to enable HDR in Windows 10.



The projector's menu also is not displaying the color space or color bits like yours are. My projector is only on C08, the original firmware for the UHD65. I didn't know there was a C15. It looks like Optoma must have fixed a lot of things in the newer firmware. This may be enough motivation to get it upgraded.


That said, my receiver has a screen which shows the HDMI signal information. It shows indeed that the color space got changed to BT.2020 when enabling HDR in Windows , with RGB 12 bit color.
In my opinion, the problem of banding has been solved.
I don't know if it was the C15 but now with 12 or 10bit there are all the nuances.
Now I have a problem with the custon 3840x1920 resolution, sometimes it does not show me the YUV 4: 4: 4 color profile but only RGB.
I'm trying to understand what it is used to change the EQ value on the projector's HDMI settings.
What do you do if you increase it? and what does it do if I decrease it?

For Windows 10 HDR it is normal for characters to be misinterpreted, you need to use a player compatible with the HDR passtrough. Maybe MPC-HC with MadVR

Fabio
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post #3485 of 3506 Old 01-04-2020, 03:26 AM
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By now I have finished all the tests to try to understand what is the cause of the banding.
Despite having set the HPC very well with MPC + MadVR + HDR and the UHD65 recognizes HDR with the symbol, the bands are always there.
Of course the HTTPC comes out in YUV 12bit 4: 4: 4 Rec2020 and is correctly recognized by the UHD65.

There is nothing to do, in Rec2020 the color space is stretched and cannot reproduce all the nuances.
It looks like a limit of the UHD65 Optoma.
Same thing happens with the Shield in YUV 12bit 4: 2: 2 Rec 2020.

Only solution is a conversion that does enough PLEX from HDR to SDR.
The image is much brighter, there is no banding but of course details are lost on the high and low lights.

Fabio
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post #3486 of 3506 Old 01-11-2020, 09:35 PM
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Trying to figure out the ideal placement for my UHD60. screen is already up — 135" diagonal, 16:9. I'm ceiling mounting. Are these calculator tools accurate? https://imgur.com/YoHQL2d

Is the lens center being 10 inches above the top of the screen really optimal?
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post #3487 of 3506 Old 01-12-2020, 04:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightrain811 View Post
Trying to figure out the ideal placement for my UHD60. screen is already up — 135" diagonal, 16:9. I'm ceiling mounting. Are these calculator tools accurate? https://imgur.com/YoHQL2d

Is the lens center being 10 inches above the top of the screen really optimal?
Offset is 100%, which means the center of the lens is at the same level as the top visible part of the screen (ceiling mount).

Lens shift is 15% offset (with tolerance +/- 5%).
The image can be shifted downwards (ceiling mount setup) by up to 15% (image height). For an 135" 16:9 screen that is 9.93".

Projector dimensions on page 52:
https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content...60-M-en-US.pdf
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post #3488 of 3506 Old 01-13-2020, 05:28 PM
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Been loving my UHD60 for past few years, but I just got a dead pixel and have no idea what to do to fix it, or even if it's possible??

Image shows the dead pixel under the "H"... I know it's small but I can't stop looking at it, and fear it might get worst 😞. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #3489 of 3506 Old 01-13-2020, 11:17 PM
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Hi All. This forum has been so helpful in bringing out the best from my Optoma UHD60. However, I have run into a roadblock here. I have bought the projector from the USA but am using it in my home country and wanted to upgrade to the latest firmware. However, there is no possibility here to do it without paying an exorbitant amount to the local dealer. Any way to upgrade the firmware without sending it to the service dealer?

Thanks for all your help
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post #3490 of 3506 Old 01-24-2020, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nidios View Post
By now I have finished all the tests to try to understand what is the cause of the banding.
Despite having set the HPC very well with MPC + MadVR + HDR and the UHD65 recognizes HDR with the symbol, the bands are always there.
Of course the HTTPC comes out in YUV 12bit 4: 4: 4 Rec2020 and is correctly recognized by the UHD65.

There is nothing to do, in Rec2020 the color space is stretched and cannot reproduce all the nuances.
It looks like a limit of the UHD65 Optoma.
Same thing happens with the Shield in YUV 12bit 4: 2: 2 Rec 2020.

Only solution is a conversion that does enough PLEX from HDR to SDR.
The image is much brighter, there is no banding but of course details are lost on the high and low lights.

Fabio
I rectify my situation, with the use of MadVr and video acceleration the banding problems are gone.
It is not clear whether it is a wise use of Dethering by MadVr because 12bit banding continues to appear on the Shield.

Fabio
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post #3491 of 3506 Old 01-24-2020, 01:34 PM
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love my optoma uhd60!
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post #3492 of 3506 Old 01-25-2020, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nidios View Post
I rectify my situation, with the use of MadVr and video acceleration the banding problems are gone.
It is not clear whether it is a wise use of Dethering by MadVr because 12bit banding continues to appear on the Shield.

Fabio

What exact settings did you use in MadVR ? Everything I tried other than "pass through HDR" resulted in a much darker picture. My test case is a very dark movie - Arrival 4K HDR blu-ray with JRiver MC25.
I don't see any banding, though, so I suppose I'm fortunate that way. Which content are you using that displays the bands ?


As far as the projector settings, the "HDR" mode under Image settings / Display Mode / HDR is what gives me the brightest picture (well, least dark is more like it). This seems to be primarily due to the use of Gamma 1.8 in that preset .
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post #3493 of 3506 Old 01-26-2020, 10:48 AM
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Simply putting DVA2 acceleration (Copy-back) and using any Player the banding is totally gone.
And it doesn't depend on 4: 4: 4 or 8/10/12 biti, the problem is solved simply by DVA2 Copy-back.
In MadVR I am using dynamic Tone Mapping, i.e. Pixel / Shader conversion. The image is fantastic, very bright in any condition, for now I have set the max value "real display peak Nits" to 75. When I have the probe I will measure the real brightness and consequently set it.

Fabio
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post #3494 of 3506 Old 01-26-2020, 08:00 PM
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UHD65 First dead pixel / Stuck Mirror. Just happened yesterday after watching The Empire Strikes Back. Strike back, they did.

Anything to try to fix it? Is this DYI repairable - even if it means soldering / taking it all apart I could do that.

Thanks!




Last edited by Matt Helander; 01-26-2020 at 08:06 PM.
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post #3495 of 3506 Old 01-30-2020, 08:00 AM
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I haven't been in this forum for a very long time but thought I'd relate my experience with a UHD65. I went through some of the issues that others complained about. Mine specifically were banding especially with HDR and a lack of brightness with streamed HDR content particularly Netflix and Prime Video.

In September of 2019 I bought a Colormunki colorometer and spend a stupid amount of time learning how to calibrate with HCFR calibration software. Despite the colorometer being expensive ($180 CDN) the results in an improved picture and elimination (almost perfectly) banding made the expense worth while. I'm retired so had the time to invest in the steep learning curve that's required to learn the HCFR software.
The persistent over-dark issue with HDR content was still an issue. During the last holiday season I upgraded my sound system with a modern AVR and added ATMOS speakers (5.1.2 configuration). That had zero effect on the HDR darkness and I started to configure my set up to trick Netflix and Prime into only serve at best 4K/ATMOS videos.

My streaming player was a Roku Ultra (2017) and with money burning a hole in my pocket I replaced it with a Nvidia Shield (2019) tube. Well although the same HDR content didn't become magically bright it did improve enough that I've been wowed by what my UHD65 is capable of. I no longer force sources to not deliver HDR content when available.
I also find on 1080p and lower HD sources that the Shield's AI up scaling is more than a marketing gimmick. When used with moderate settings it can make 1080p @24Hz content look very close to 4K sources. My Shield is updated with the latest hotfixes and I use both the built in "Beta" frame rate switcher and the add on frame rate switcher software, as one solution doesn't work for all streaming sources.

The Shield has a quirk that is cannot force a UHD @24Hz 10bit 420 resolution which would make the menu's a bit slow but simplify the whole frame rate switching annoyances (temporary blank screens as the UHD65 resets). When you frame rate switch to UHD @24Hz the UHD65 always uses 12bit 422. That doesn't sound like a big deal but all of a sudden banding was back and I had to re-calibrate both for 4K and HDR which is time consuming.
In the end I'm loving my current AV setup but it took me almost a year, a lot of personal time and add on expenses just to get things where I've been saying out loud, "dam that pictures good", kind of zoning out of what I'm actually watching just to ogle at the richness of the visuals.
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post #3496 of 3506 Old 02-01-2020, 09:29 AM
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UHD 60 4K Odd behavior

I have a 4k Roku attached to HDMI 1 on my UHD 60. It's there for convenience for a couple of applications (1080p video) that are not supported by the device I have plugged into HDMI 2 (the 4K port).

Last night, I was browsing Prime video with it and started watching a 1080p stream from PBS. When the stream started, the projector went blank (as it does when changing resolution) and 3840 x 2160 popped up to the right on the screen. This happened with every stream I accessed. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? I thought only HDMI 2 supported 4K.

Any help much appreciated.

Brian
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post #3497 of 3506 Old 02-01-2020, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briansxx View Post
I have a 4k Roku attached to HDMI 1 on my UHD 60. It's there for convenience for a couple of applications (1080p video) that are not supported by the device I have plugged into HDMI 2 (the 4K port).



Last night, I was browsing Prime video with it and started watching a 1080p stream from PBS. When the stream started, the projector went blank (as it does when changing resolution) and 3840 x 2160 popped up to the right on the screen. This happened with every stream I accessed. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? I thought only HDMI 2 supported 4K.



Any help much appreciated.



Brian


Hdmi 1.4 can do 4K at 30hz. Problem is no hdcp 2.2 ...it depends on what you’re watching and how your device is configured.


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post #3498 of 3506 Old 02-02-2020, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am2model3 View Post
just a reminder, anyone wanting to watch 4K UHD movie discs on the UHD60/65; get a really great Panasonic UB820 or 420; HDR tone mapping and HDR optimizer make your movies look amazing! both players on sale at best buy now.
The HDR Optimizer also works great with 4K HDR streaming via Netflix and Primevideo.
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post #3499 of 3506 Old 02-02-2020, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanhoek View Post
Hdmi 1.4 can do 4K at 30hz. Problem is no hdcp 2.2 ...it depends on what you’re watching and how your device is configured.


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Ivan,

Thank you. The reason I asked was due to information on the UHD60 Optoma site. The Q&A section answer to the question if both HDMI ports support 4K says that only HDMI 2 supports 4K and that HDMI 1 is for 1080p only. Good to know that it might work for some content. I'll do a little more reading on HDCP 1.4.

Thanks again and all the best,

Brian

Last edited by briansxx; 02-02-2020 at 06:34 AM. Reason: fix type
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briansxx View Post
Ivan,



Thank you. The reason I asked was due to information on the UHD60 Optoma site. The Q&A section answer to the question if both HDMI ports support 4K says that only HDMI 2 supports 4K and that HDMI 1 is for 1080p only. Good to know that it might work for some content. I'll do a little more reading on HDCP 1.4.



Thanks again and all the best,



Brian


I have an older receiver (denon 4520ci from like 2013). It “supports” 4K, albeit only at 30hz.. I was okay with this because I figured most content I want to watch is 24hz anyway - movies!

So I went and tried it... I got a 4K @30Hz desktop from my PC’s... this is looking good!

Then I try movies from my Roku and.. just get 1080p.

Turns out they tied playback of 4K to HDCP 2.2. Nothing will playback 4K protected content unless you have a full hdcp 2.2 from source to display.

Well, YouTube 4K at 30hz plays lol

Anyway... yes, you can get “4K” on the other port, technically... but not to play movies or at. 60hz.


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post #3501 of 3506 Old 02-04-2020, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanhoek View Post
I have an older receiver (denon 4520ci from like 2013). It “supports” 4K, albeit only at 30hz.. I was okay with this because I figured most content I want to watch is 24hz anyway - movies!

So I went and tried it... I got a 4K @30Hz desktop from my PC’s... this is looking good!

Then I try movies from my Roku and.. just get 1080p.

Turns out they tied playback of 4K to HDCP 2.2. Nothing will playback 4K protected content unless you have a full hdcp 2.2 from source to display.

Well, YouTube 4K at 30hz plays lol

Anyway... yes, you can get “4K” on the other port, technically... but not to play movies or at. 60hz.


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I tried an experiment tonight. The 4K Roku is plugged into HDMI 1 on the PJ. I fired up Prime and navigated to UHD titles and launched one. The screen blanked and then the PJ found HDMI 1 at 4K resolution

However, Netflix does not work--all 4K titles show as HD only when I navigate to their launch pages.

Interesting that Prime 4k seems to work through HDMI 1...

All the best,

Brian
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post #3502 of 3506 Old 02-04-2020, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by briansxx View Post
I tried an experiment tonight. The 4K Roku is plugged into HDMI 1 on the PJ. I fired up Prime and navigated to UHD titles and launched one. The screen blanked and then the PJ found HDMI 1 at 4K resolution

However, Netflix does not work--all 4K titles show as HD only when I navigate to their launch pages.

Interesting that Prime 4k seems to work through HDMI 1...

All the best,

Brian
Do you have the special Netflix 4k plan? They've made 4k a different paid tier of service.
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post #3503 of 3506 Old 02-05-2020, 06:00 AM
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Do you have the special Netflix 4k plan? They've made 4k a different paid tier of service.
I do have the 4K Netflix plan. Not sure why none of the titles show as 4K on the Roku when it is plugged into HDMI 1.
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post #3504 of 3506 Old 02-05-2020, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by briansxx View Post
I do have the 4K Netflix plan. Not sure why none of the titles show as 4K on the Roku when it is plugged into HDMI 1.


What happens if you play a title? Perhaps the Roku will upscale the 1080p to 4K anyway.

I don’t believe that hdmi1 has HDCP 2.2 so you won’t get the 4K sources, but like I said... it can accept 4K 30hz input.


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post #3505 of 3506 Old 02-05-2020, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ivanhoek View Post
What happens if you play a title? Perhaps the Roku will upscale the 1080p to 4K anyway.

I don’t believe that hdmi1 has HDCP 2.2 so you won’t get the 4K sources, but like I said... it can accept 4K 30hz input.


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Interrogating HDMI 1 shows 4K at 30Hz. On Amazon, it does play 1080p upscaled to 4K (even on 1080p content, the PJ blanks when the content starts, searches for the input, and then shows HDMI 1 at 4K. It also plays back 4K, though obviously at 30Hz. I have the Roku set to automatically choose best resolution). I am sure that it will upscale Netflix, too, but it appears that Netflix does check to see if the device is HDCP 2.2 compliant before even allowing you to see the option of UHD playback.

All the best,

Brian
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post #3506 of 3506 Old 02-12-2020, 05:54 AM
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Have you understood what the "HDMI 2 EQ" value from 1 to 7 does?
That is, what happens if the value increases and what if it decreases.

fabio
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