Optoma UHD60/65 Owners Thread - Page 122 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3631 of 3653 Old 05-10-2020, 05:19 AM
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How do you do a factory reset on the UHD60? I have tried the web page Reset and it doesn't actually reset anything. I tried some guides I found online and none of them did anything at all. I keep trying to make this projector look decent and with each change it gets worse. So I want a real factory reset back to true defaults, but I just can't seem to find the magic buttons to actually reset the thing.
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post #3632 of 3653 Old 05-10-2020, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by scottlindner View Post
How do you do a factory reset on the UHD60? I have tried the web page Reset and it doesn't actually reset anything. I tried some guides I found online and none of them did anything at all. I keep trying to make this projector look decent and with each change it gets worse. So I want a real factory reset back to true defaults, but I just can't seem to find the magic buttons to actually reset the thing.
The manual on page 22/23 and 30/31 has reset options:

https://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf...anual_9851.pdf
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post #3633 of 3653 Old 05-11-2020, 05:25 AM
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Is there any news on the UHD65 firmware?
I am stopped at C15, I wanted to know if they have fixed the burns of the skin on the highlights when dynamic IRIS is active.

Fabio
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post #3634 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
The manual on page 22/23 and 30/31 has reset options:

https://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf...anual_9851.pdf
Thanks. I see why I was confused. By "Factory Reset" I was expecting all settings to be reset back to factory and didn't think it was happening because when I turned it back on it wasn't asking me what language, and projector orientation. I see it was always working now. Thank you.

That fixed all of the screw ups I made. I still don't like the image but I have noticed inconsistent handshaking between the receiver and the projector and I have an active cable! Most of the time it will negotiate to UHD HDR 30fps, sometimes UHD 60fps and on rare occassion UHD HDR 60fps. This is with my Roku Ultra. I just a moment ago I ordered a Panasonic DP-UB820. It just went $100 off at Amazon this morning (I set a camelcamelcamel alert). So I will be getting that to help me sort through what's going on.

But now that I do have UHD HDR from my Roku ultra with my new HDCP 2.2 capable receiver, the colors seem fine in most cases but my blacks don't seem to have that substance I like and that might be this projector vs a far more expense one (like $4k-$5k). I also notice it seem to be white washed a little bit. I made sure I have no ambient light in the room. Could this be my screen, the projector, or is it actually ambient light and it might be coming from the projector light reflecting off the screen and walls and back onto the screen again as ambient light?
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post #3635 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 08:46 AM
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UHD65 Image Problem

Hi Everyone,

Hope you are all staying safe and healthy.

I am encountering a problem with my UHD 65 and was wondering if anyone can determine what the problem may be. The right side of the projection repeats half the image and has horizontal lines. Problem first started a couple months ago and eventually went back to normal, but has now become a permanent display no matter how many times I’ve turned it on and off. I already reached out to Optoma and am awaiting an RMA number, but was wondering if any of you know what the problem may be. My lamp life is around 800 hours and took delivery of my projector in June 2017. With the lockdown easing, I imagine that Optoma will open up their service centers soon, as my 3 year warranty period will be up next month.


Hope to hear from you guys soon. Thanks
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post #3636 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ferneil View Post
Hi Everyone,

Hope you are all staying safe and healthy.

I am encountering a problem with my UHD 65 and was wondering if anyone can determine what the problem may be. The right side of the projection repeats half the image and has horizontal lines. Problem first started a couple months ago and eventually went back to normal, but has now become a permanent display no matter how many times I’ve turned it on and off. I already reached out to Optoma and am awaiting an RMA number, but was wondering if any of you know what the problem may be. My lamp life is around 800 hours and took delivery of my projector in June 2017. With the lockdown easing, I imagine that Optoma will open up their service centers soon, as my 3 year warranty period will be up next month.


Hope to hear from you guys soon. Thanks
I suppose you've tried it with different source devices?
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post #3637 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 10:03 AM
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Thanks. I see why I was confused. By "Factory Reset" I was expecting all settings to be reset back to factory and didn't think it was happening because when I turned it back on it wasn't asking me what language, and projector orientation. I see it was always working now. Thank you.

That fixed all of the screw ups I made. I still don't like the image but I have noticed inconsistent handshaking between the receiver and the projector and I have an active cable! Most of the time it will negotiate to UHD HDR 30fps, sometimes UHD 60fps and on rare occassion UHD HDR 60fps. This is with my Roku Ultra. I just a moment ago I ordered a Panasonic DP-UB820. It just went $100 off at Amazon this morning (I set a camelcamelcamel alert). So I will be getting that to help me sort through what's going on.

But now that I do have UHD HDR from my Roku ultra with my new HDCP 2.2 capable receiver, the colors seem fine in most cases but my blacks don't seem to have that substance I like and that might be this projector vs a far more expense one (like $4k-$5k). I also notice it seem to be white washed a little bit. I made sure I have no ambient light in the room. Could this be my screen, the projector, or is it actually ambient light and it might be coming from the projector light reflecting off the screen and walls and back onto the screen again as ambient light?
In general, I would suggest that a UHD60 should be paired with a lower gain grey screen to increase the apparent contrast, and because the screen will help attenuate the ambient light in the room. Basically, any light in the room that hits the walls, etc, is reflected back onto the screen and then back to the walls, etc. A high gain screen keeps this process going at a noticeable level where a lower gain screen helps by reducing the ambient light levels because the reflected light is dimming by each successive bounce.

I'm not sure I quite understand what's happening with the Roku. Typically the source device will send a constant frame rate and then alter the bit depth (8, 10, 12 bit) and/or colour compression (4:4:4, 4:2:2, 4:2:0) based upon the handshake. It's possible that the Roku sends a lower frame rate to try to maintain a higher bit depth with less colour compression, but i'm not familiar with them. When used as streaming devices, the UB420 and UBP-X700 will keep the frame rate steady and alter the other parameters based upon the handshake.
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post #3638 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 10:05 AM
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I suppose you've tried it with different source devices?
Yes; I get the same screen image when |I view from my Oppo BDP-103, my Nvidia Shield, all running through my Marantz SR6011 Receiver. The only time I get the screen normal is the 5 seconds the Optoma screen logo boots up.
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post #3639 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 10:13 AM
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Yes; I get the same screen image when |I view from my Oppo BDP-103, my Nvidia Shield, all running through my Marantz SR6011 Receiver. The only time I get the screen normal is the 5 seconds the Optoma screen logo boots up.
To be sure, I would test it with a direct connection to the projector and bypass the receiver. However it's probably got something to do with the projector's internal processor.
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post #3640 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
In general, I would suggest that a UHD60 should be paired with a lower gain grey screen to increase the apparent contrast, and because the screen will help attenuate the ambient light in the room. Basically, any light in the room that hits the walls, etc, is reflected back onto the screen and then back to the walls, etc. A high gain screen keeps this process going at a noticeable level where a lower gain screen helps by reducing the ambient light levels because the reflected light is dimming by each successive bounce.

I'm not sure I quite understand what's happening with the Roku. Typically the source device will send a constant frame rate and then alter the bit depth (8, 10, 12 bit) and/or colour compression (4:4:4, 4:2:2, 4:2:0) based upon the handshake. It's possible that the Roku sends a lower frame rate to try to maintain a higher bit depth with less colour compression, but i'm not familiar with them. When used as streaming devices, the UB420 and UBP-X700 will keep the frame rate steady and alter the other parameters based upon the handshake.
You know, I think you might be on to something here. I had a 0.8 gain gray screen at my ex's house. I wonder if that's a primary source of what I dislike? When I used ProjectorCentral it showed that at my throw distance, screen size and ambient light that a 1.0 gain screen was ideal. Which is all I can find at my screen size anyway. So maybe my biggest rub here is my screen material. I'll see if I can find something else that is a 0.8 or lower grain gray screen at my screen size of 165" diagonal. I can go a little smaller but I kind like this size quite a bit. I might be OK as small as 150" and feel it is appropriate.

I'm not overly worried about the Roku just yet. I ordered the Panasonic BR player to get the control you have referred to. I'm not going to consider my setup complete until then. I love the Roku and it supports Plex as a client, and if that's all I use it for and the Panasonic for Netflix, Vudu and Amazon Prime, I'm OK with whatever that implies. So I'm not going to worry about my random handshaking issues until I have the Panny in hand.

Appreciate your time. Really really do. Thank you.
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post #3641 of 3653 Old 05-17-2020, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ferneil View Post
Hi Everyone,

Hope you are all staying safe and healthy.

I am encountering a problem with my UHD 65 and was wondering if anyone can determine what the problem may be. The right side of the projection repeats half the image and has horizontal lines. Problem first started a couple months ago and eventually went back to normal, but has now become a permanent display no matter how many times I’ve turned it on and off. I already reached out to Optoma and am awaiting an RMA number, but was wondering if any of you know what the problem may be. My lamp life is around 800 hours and took delivery of my projector in June 2017. With the lockdown easing, I imagine that Optoma will open up their service centers soon, as my 3 year warranty period will be up next month.


Hope to hear from you guys soon. Thanks
Before taking it to service try to change the EDID of the HDMI ports.
There is a menu with HDMI EQ written and its value.
I had also called for assistance because at the change of source the same thing happened to me but for a second.

Unfortunately I still have to find out what the HDMI EQ value does, that is what happens if I raise it and what happens if it drops.

It should be inherent in the length of the HDMI cables.

Fabio
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post #3643 of 3653 Old 05-18-2020, 08:02 AM
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Hi Folks,

I wanted to ask if anyone has encountered an issue where UHD60 - “Info “ tab only Shows HDR 8 Bit 4:2:0 For input from a HDR 10 Bit 4:4:4 source ? I have a HDMI cable capable of 18Gbps . I have tested the source on my TV and able to get 10Bit HDR for the same
Content . I am using the same brands of cables just different lengths For the TV vs Projector. Input source is KDLINKS A10 And I am trying to play local 4K HDR content not streaming .
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Hi Folks,

I wanted to ask if anyone has encountered an issue where UHD60 - “Info “ tab only Shows HDR 8 Bit 4:2:0 For input from a HDR 10 Bit 4:4:4 source ? I have a HDMI cable capable of 18Gbps . I have tested the source on my TV and able to get 10Bit HDR for the same
Content . I am using the same brands of cables just different lengths For the TV vs Projector. Input source is KDLINKS A10 And I am trying to play local 4K HDR content not streaming .
It's important to give the menu->info frame rate as well. (24hz, 60hz...)

Does the source device have an info menu showing the actual output and is there anything between the source and the projector? The length of the cable can made a large difference.
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I have the source output set @ 2160-60Hz from settings with the KDLINKS menu.
I have a Yamaha Receiver in the Middle. Upon start up the projector detects the source to be [email protected] Hz .
I have tired plugging in the source directly into the projector and by pass the receiver and I got the same result of 8 Bit HDR 4:2:0. The receiver is set for 4K HDR passThrough and I haven’t see any issues with it before .

It's important to give the menu->info frame rate as well. (24hz, 60hz...)

Does the source device have an info menu showing the actual output and is there anything between the source and the projector? The length of the cable can made a large difference.[/QUOTE]
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post #3646 of 3653 Old 05-18-2020, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by imran qureshi View Post
I have the source output set @ 2160-60Hz from settings with the KDLINKS menu.
I have a Yamaha Receiver in the Middle. Upon start up the projector detects the source to be [email protected] Hz .
I have tired plugging in the source directly into the projector and by pass the receiver and I got the same result of 8 Bit HDR 4:2:0. The receiver is set for 4K HDR passThrough and I haven’t see any issues with it before .

It's important to give the menu->info frame rate as well. (24hz, 60hz...)

Does the source device have an info menu showing the actual output and is there anything between the source and the projector? The length of the cable can made a large difference.
[/QUOTE]

The projector info menu reports the incoming signal. It's probably the different cable length causing it to drop to 8bit.
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post #3647 of 3653 Old 05-22-2020, 12:47 PM
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Hey all,

I'm looking at projectors and I could get a refurb UHD65 in my price range. For those of you who have it, are you happy with your purchase? Why or why not? If not, what would you get instead? I have an anamorphic lens, so could you please check for me if it has anamorphic stretch? I think it is lbx. What it will do is, let's say when you're watching a scope movie, it will get rid of the black bars and stretch the image to fill your screen. My current Optoma has it, and the UHD60/65 manual I looked at online looks like it has it, but I just want to confirm. Cheers,

Gear: The Brains: Anthem MRX 720. The Brawn: Outlaw 7700. The Fun: Custom PC w/ Logitech 27 & reverse mount pedals, Nintendo Switch, Playstation PS4 Pro. The Visuals: Oppo 203, Darbee Darblet, Optoma HD3300, Panamorph UH480, DIY 138" Curved screen using Semour Centerstage XD AT material. The Audio: 7.1.4: LCR: Tannoy DC12i. Sides: Tannoy IW63DC. Rears: Tannoy DC8i. Ceilings: Tannoy CMS 603/601 DCBM. Subs: 3X Micro Marty and 1X Full Marty.
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post #3648 of 3653 Old 05-24-2020, 04:44 PM
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Crickets. I'm assuming all y'all are enjoying your projector and not looming around here. I pulled the pin and got a refurbished unit. It was between this one and the Epson 6040. The black levels may not match the Epsons, but man I've had such good reliability with my Optoma, I love the razor sharp image of DLP and the minimal maintenance (scared off by dust blobs, replacement filters that are never in stock, lack of frame interpolation for HDR, etc). At any rate, I can't wait to get it and set it up. Cheers
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Gear: The Brains: Anthem MRX 720. The Brawn: Outlaw 7700. The Fun: Custom PC w/ Logitech 27 & reverse mount pedals, Nintendo Switch, Playstation PS4 Pro. The Visuals: Oppo 203, Darbee Darblet, Optoma HD3300, Panamorph UH480, DIY 138" Curved screen using Semour Centerstage XD AT material. The Audio: 7.1.4: LCR: Tannoy DC12i. Sides: Tannoy IW63DC. Rears: Tannoy DC8i. Ceilings: Tannoy CMS 603/601 DCBM. Subs: 3X Micro Marty and 1X Full Marty.
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post #3649 of 3653 Old 05-24-2020, 06:14 PM
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Crickets. I'm assuming all y'all are enjoying your projector and not looming around here. I pulled the pin and got a refurbished unit. It was between this one and the Epson 6040. The black levels may not match the Epsons, but man I've had such good reliability with my Optoma, I love the razor sharp image of DLP and the minimal maintenance (scared off by dust blobs, replacement filters that are never in stock, lack of frame interpolation for HDR, etc). At any rate, I can't wait to get it and set it up. Cheers
Tell us how it goes. I have a UHD50 so I couldn't respond to your first post.
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post #3650 of 3653 Old 05-24-2020, 11:05 PM
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For the few, one?, tracking my issues, I have something important that I noticed tonight. I am onboard with it being some poor handshaking type of issue. I watched a show on Netflix on my Roku Ultra tonight that had a lot of dark shadows scenes and it looked gorgeous. I selected the Info tab and it showed [email protected] with HDR. When I tried a Vudu HDX movie which is UHD HDR the info tab showed 8bit SDR. So I think that's why this looks like "black crush" using the laymen term for it.

I dot have the Panasonic blueray player on order that it sounds like will help with this. At least help me isolate. I am wondering if it's my cables even though they are all active.

I wanted to throw out this data point since I just watched it and thought it was gorgeous.

BTW, for those that suggested my screen was too big for my seating distance was too big. I played a video ge on it tonight and got motion sickness after an hour. So maybe it is too big. LOL
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post #3651 of 3653 Old 05-25-2020, 08:55 AM
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For the few, one?, tracking my issues, I have something important that I noticed tonight. I am onboard with it being some poor handshaking type of issue. I watched a show on Netflix on my Roku Ultra tonight that had a lot of dark shadows scenes and it looked gorgeous. I selected the Info tab and it showed [email protected] with HDR. When I tried a Vudu HDX movie which is UHD HDR the info tab showed 8bit SDR. So I think that's why this looks like "black crush" using the laymen term for it.

I dot have the Panasonic blueray player on order that it sounds like will help with this. At least help me isolate. I am wondering if it's my cables even though they are all active.

I wanted to throw out this data point since I just watched it and thought it was gorgeous.

BTW, for those that suggested my screen was too big for my seating distance was too big. I played a video game on it tonight and got motion sickness after an hour. So maybe it is too big. LOL
I did some fiddling and reading and I am starting to be convinced it has to be my active HDMI cable causing my issues (after my receiver was updated). So I ordered one of these last night: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_...seq=1&format=2 It's a Fiber Optic HDMI cable. This comment kinda gives me the hint that I'm looking for
Quote:
Bought after many frustrating attempts to find a 4K HDR 50ft solution
I tried several cables claiming to deliver full 4K 60Hz HDR performance, but all failed. I bought this cable to go 50ft from my hardware cabinet to my 4K HDR TV. Works perfectly! It's expensive, but worth every penny if you care about getting full functionality from your new high-end TV.
These fiber optic cables are not cheap at all. Even the most expensive active cables are a third of the cost so there has to be a reason they are selling. I just got lucky to order one when the 40ft was on such a huge sale.

I can't reiterate enough how night and day the color saturation and depth of the blacks (with zero discernible black crush at all) and the highly saturated whites didn't have any of the white crush issues. This was what I needed to see to know for a fact it isn't the projector but some "digital" issue of sorts to oversimplify it all. And it just seems to match my senses that it is the cable even though it is a brand new active high speed HDMI cable.
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post #3652 of 3653 Old 05-31-2020, 03:50 AM
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UHD65 Firmware update worth it for wait time?

Hi Everyone,

I’ve had the UHD65 since March 2018 and it was shipped with the C08 firmware. I’ve been following this owner’s thread for sometime over the last two years and find it helpful and I always hated the fact we have to ship this thing in to update the firmware when every other modern day HT gear I own can be updated via USB or network.

Anyone that has done this process that has had the C08 firmware and went to C13 or I know now the latest I believe is C15 really notice a difference and I am curious in what areas as Optoma doesn’t really list any changes to revisions.

I had the projector professionally calibrated two years ago shortly after I got it and the picture has been great but I know with certain 4K content mostly with streaming that certain sky scenes and not so much with 4K disc that I will see banding and have people really seen this clean up with the firmware updates? The other issue I have been having is sporadic signal drops lately even with a Monoprice Slimrun AV 30 ft fiber optic cable which comes backs after a few secs. I am not sure if that is the Projector or the Yamaha RX-A3060 acting up. I just installed a HDMI over CAT6 extender to replace the fiber optic cable this weekend to see if that works better with the AVR and Projector since the AVR does all my switching and direct pass through and maybe the AVR wasn’t providing enough power on the HDMI port alone for the fiber optic cable even around 30ft to be 100% solid but that wasn’t always the case until the last 6 months.

Home Theater: Optoma UHD65, Yamaha RX-A3060, Onkyo M5010 2Ch Amp(For 2 of 4 ATMOS speakers), 2-Polk RTiA5's Fronts, 4-Polk FXiA4 Surrounds, Polk CSiA4 Center, 4-Polk RC60i Ceiling Speakers for ATMOS, SVS PB12-NSD Sub, Xbox One X, Sony PS4, Roku Ultra, 105in Screen and Panasonic DP-UB820
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post #3653 of 3653 Old 05-31-2020, 12:45 PM
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I just got my UHD65 returned from an RMA and they replaced the formatter board but have been also experiencing the same signal drop issue the last 6 months or so and read in prior posts that a HDMI voltage inserter might do the trick; so I will have one delivered by this Wednesday and try it out.


I still have my firmware version at C05 and was surprised that Optoma won't just go ahead and update it when it went in for warranty repair. I am anxious to see additional feedback on the differences that the FW C15 would bring....
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firmware , hd65 , Optoma , optoma uhd60 , uhd60 apple tv , uhd65

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