Optoma UHD60/65 Owners Thread - Page 85 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2521 of 3427 Old 03-29-2018, 08:20 PM
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Looking to buy my first projector. I've had televisions with judder reduction (frame interpolation) for many years, and I use it, typically at lower settings (2/10, etc).

I've been considering the UHD60 vs the UHD65. I can get them for only $150 CAD difference. I've watched the comparisons and like the UHD65 picture quality significantly more. Also the UHD60 does not have frame interpolation, which worries me as I am used to it. The other factor is that, while this is a basement installation, it's a rec room with light painted walls, not a dedicated theatre, and I'd like to be able to watch sports with some ambient light. There are some windows but they are less bright than the main level, and I also plan to install shutters eventually. Do you think the UHD65 would still work well for me?
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post #2522 of 3427 Old 03-29-2018, 08:25 PM
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I got my $1499 refurbed UHD65 from Woot today. Other than being in a plain brown box, it was indistinguishable from brand new. It even had all the protective plastic stuck on it.



I didn't get my screen up yet, so I just tacked a plain white sheet to the wall and based on what I've seen so far, the 70" 4K Vizio is coming down and going into the bedroom. I just can't see any reason to watch anything but this gorgeous picture. Even in ECO mode and with the wall mounted accent lights on, the picture is plenty bright. And with the 1.1 gain screen instead of a bed sheet, it can only get better.



I watched the opening of Pacific Rim in 4K HDR and it was stunning. The colors look amazing and I'm very happy with the black levels. There's no ambient light in my theater and we usually watch with it totally dark. Fast action scenes seemed a little jumpy, but I know Pure Motion can help with that. There are just so many settings to play with, and it was getting too late to try them all.



An MLB game on ESPN was a little oversaturated, but I found I'd switched the HDR mode to SDR+HDR and once I switched it back to auto, it looked much better.



I was pleased to find that the firmware was already at C10, so no issues there. I don't have any sources capable of 3D, so I don't see any reason to be concerned about upgrading to C13.



I'm very happy so far with the purchase.
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post #2523 of 3427 Old 03-29-2018, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffChap View Post
I got my $1499 refurbed UHD65 from Woot today. Other than being in a plain brown box, it was indistinguishable from brand new. It even had all the protective plastic stuck on it.

I didn't get my screen up yet, so I just tacked a plain white sheet to the wall and based on what I've seen so far, the 70" 4K Vizio is coming down and going into the bedroom. I just can't see any reason to watch anything but this gorgeous picture. Even in ECO mode and with the wall mounted accent lights on, the picture is plenty bright. And with the 1.1 gain screen instead of a bed sheet, it can only get better.

I watched the opening of Pacific Rim in 4K HDR and it was stunning. The colors look amazing and I'm very happy with the black levels. There's no ambient light in my theater and we usually watch with it totally dark. Fast action scenes seemed a little jumpy, but I know Pure Motion can help with that. There are just so many settings to play with, and it was getting too late to try them all.

An MLB game on ESPN was a little oversaturated, but I found I'd switched the HDR mode to SDR+HDR and once I switched it back to auto, it looked much better.

I was pleased to find that the firmware was already at C10, so no issues there. I don't have any sources capable of 3D, so I don't see any reason to be concerned about upgrading to C13.

I'm very happy so far with the purchase.
Hey I got mine today too. My unit wasn't as physically unscathed as yours sounds - the top plate as scuff marks like it was set on the top and moved around - though, that's the only physical imperfection I can find at the moment. I haven't had a chance to plug it in and try it, and I don't have a screen area to really evaluate it yet - so hopefully I am able to do that before the 90 day warranty runs out.

Otherwise - the unit looks good so far! Anyone know what a genuine Optoma bulb runs? I've seen them on amazon listed for like $160, which seems too cheap to be real.

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post #2524 of 3427 Old 03-30-2018, 08:03 AM
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So I did have a chance to hook up the Refurb Master and shoot my UHD65 at the biggest finished wall I had last night - Probably not the best test as the wall is light gray and textured - but yea. I played around with the settings on the projector, and in this setup, Cinema looked better when testing The Martian and Rogue One from the PS4. The image was fairly bright and crisp, but I wasn't 100% impressed - maybe because this is my first projector and i'm coming from a 55" tv? I tried upping the brightness, but that just washed out the color and really made the black bars on the top and bottom more prominent. I'm not too distressed though, as I figure shooting it on a textured wall with regular paint is probably to blame.

I had the projector 14.5 feet away from the wall, which gave me a 94 inch diag. screen. That being said, I didn't play with the Zoom at all now that I think about it - I'll have to figure that out. My actual theater room is 19' 7" Long, but with soffit that takes it down to 18' 7". So - it looks like this should fit in well nearly all the way back.

One problem I have though - and I should have known - But....



I'm not sure how much this will bug me when all setup, but I see it every time there's a sharp contrast between white and black. Do most people just deal with it, or do the vast majority of people not see them? Is there anything you can really do about it?

Took a few shots during Rogue One - you can see some of the color striping when you grab a still image, but of course not when it's running.











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post #2525 of 3427 Old 03-30-2018, 10:48 AM
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Hello,

I had purchases a uhd60 a couple weeks ago and sent it back due to poor black levels. I just got my uhd65 and i'm bummed because the black levels are still awful. Like worse than my IPS 10 year old computer monitor that was 150$ bad. At first the only way I could even get dark blacks was -8 to -12 brightness which totally crushed all the blacks. But then I noticed something. The menu when changing settings is BLACK. Against the black background of my computer its much darker. I also noticed when I choose the sdr to hdr setting it also makes the blacks much darker. I feel like there is something holding back the black level since I know the projector is capable of producing darker blacks.

Is this possibly my source? I have tried the different modes and gamma setting on the UHD65 and none help. Im using the HDMI cable that came in the box. I've used my laptop and my pc and both are the same. I don't have a BR player but am planning on purchasing a PS4.
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post #2526 of 3427 Old 03-30-2018, 10:52 AM
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Here is what im talking about.
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post #2527 of 3427 Old 03-30-2018, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Grandy View Post
Hi all,

Thank you for your answers. I will look at tweaking some of my colour settings. I thought it may have something to do with the movie only displays at 24hz, and not 60hz, which I thought was required for HDR.

For my Onkyo TX-S353, is there any HDMI settings I need to change to allow for best deep colour HDR. I did change the output to 4:4:4 already.


Thank you,
James.
You can search my conversations on here. I had the same issue and also own this movie too. I have adjusted my settings from being on this thread and now have a great image and the movie looks great!
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post #2528 of 3427 Old 03-30-2018, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am2model3 View Post
true color banding (lines separating shades of color) is a 8bit, 10bit 12bit video signal issue.

if you are seeing clouds of color (like compression artifacts of color) typically with the violet/white type stuff; that is the color processing of Brilliant COlor.

BrilliantCOlor defaults to 10 (highest); so decrease that to 8, 6, 5, 3, 1, or off and you should see the compression artifacts of color (cloud shaped) disappear.
FWIW: I was seeing a ton of violet/purple/white artifacts and for me it was due to Dynamic Black. With DB on, even putting BrilliantColor to 1 didn't get rid of the problem entirely. With DB off, the artifacts disappeared entirely .. I could put BC to 10 and not see any of them. So, I'm now trying to find the best image settings with DB off because that problem is super distracting and ruins the viewing experience for me.
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post #2529 of 3427 Old 03-30-2018, 05:36 PM
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Is anyone getting flickering lines while watching? How do you stop this?
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post #2530 of 3427 Old 03-30-2018, 06:10 PM
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SamF, you pretty much described my journey with my UHD60's picture settings to a tee. When I first got the projector, I saw the purple within an hour of use. I then spent time trying to get rid of it. For me, turning BrilliantColor off solved the issue. Most calibration reviews I've read say to lower it or turn it off. However, I personally like the mid-tone color boost it provides and think the picture is better with it on but not all the way.
Later on after trying many different settings I too turned off Dynamic Black. I mainly turned it off because my projector image would flicker in dark scenes. I then started to NOT see the purple issue using Cinema and HDR modes like before and then put two and two together.
Now I too am trying to adjust the User mode once again to incorporate BrilliantColor back into the mix while Dynamic Black is off.
Now I'm close to matching Cinema but with a little less color and more contrast but with an image not as bright as I would like.
Currently, I'm mainly using the Cinema mode. I personally like it myself. I now only see the purple issues in extreme situations that being it out and that, so far, has been confined to none HDR 4K videos on YouTube with light blue skies with compression artifacts in particular.
For me adjusting the Color setting seems to change red and blue more than the other colors. Red seems to get oversaturated quickly. I see this especially while using the Apple 4K TV.
Anyway, I'm mostly using Cinema mode as I'm tired of spending more time adjusting the image than enjoying content.
After everything is said and done I do like the image quality of my UHD60. It's way better than the Optoma HD33 I had and really enjoyed. I'm accustomed to and know the limitations of DLP from using it for many years. The shock of the limited Black levels and thus Contrast of DLP came and went for me long ago.
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Display: Optoma UHD51A Projector > Elite Screens R135WH1 ezFrame | 7.2.4 Audio: Onkyo TX-RZ920 9.2ch Network A/V Receiver, M-5010 2ch Amplifier; Definitive Technology ProCenter 2000, ProMonitor 1000(x10), SuperCube I & 4000 | Sources: PC, DirecTV, Apple 4K, Fire Stick 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Chromecast & Roku Ultras, Xbox One X, PlayStation 4 Pro & Nintendo Switch | Remote: Harmony Elite | HDMI: 40' Monoprice DynamicView+4x1 Switch
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post #2531 of 3427 Old 03-31-2018, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Helander View Post
So I did have a chance to hook up the Refurb Master and shoot my UHD65 at the biggest finished wall I had last night - Probably not the best test as the wall is light gray and textured - but yea. I played around with the settings on the projector, and in this setup, Cinema looked better when testing The Martian and Rogue One from the PS4. The image was fairly bright and crisp, but I wasn't 100% impressed - maybe because this is my first projector and i'm coming from a 55" tv? I tried upping the brightness, but that just washed out the color and really made the black bars on the top and bottom more prominent. I'm not too distressed though, as I figure shooting it on a textured wall with regular paint is probably to blame.

I had the projector 14.5 feet away from the wall, which gave me a 94 inch diag. screen. That being said, I didn't play with the Zoom at all now that I think about it - I'll have to figure that out. My actual theater room is 19' 7" Long, but with soffit that takes it down to 18' 7". So - it looks like this should fit in well nearly all the way back.

One problem I have though - and I should have known - But....



I'm not sure how much this will bug me when all setup, but I see it every time there's a sharp contrast between white and black. Do most people just deal with it, or do the vast majority of people not see them? Is there anything you can really do about it?

Took a few shots during Rogue One - you can see some of the color striping when you grab a still image, but of course not when it's running.











[IMG]https://s26.postimg.org/djohti4gp/2018033
0_024509.jpg[/IMG]

Hi there - When I first started watching my UHD65 it was SO bright that flipping between light and dark scenes or having bright sections next to dark would sear my eyes. Very very painful and ruined the first few weeks of viewing. To boot, I also saw the rainbow effect quite vividly. I was pretty frustrated! I did some research and several posts I read noted that the searing brightness and the rainbow effect would disappear over time as the bulb brightness diminished over the first 100 hours.

This is exactly what happened. I am over 200 hours now and have NO issues at all with over brightness or the rainbow effect. Gone.

Regarding the other issues you are having with color banding, this is a calibration issue. The discussion here over the last few pages should help you. I strongly advise having your unit calibrated by an ISF technician. There are simply too many setting to figure out on your own, particularly when it comes to calibrating color!

Optoma UHD65, Yamaha RX-A2070, 3 x Totem Tribe II, 2 x Totem Tribe I, 2 x SVS PB2000, 2 x SVS Prime Elevations
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post #2532 of 3427 Old 03-31-2018, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander Keaton View Post
Hello,

I had purchases a uhd60 a couple weeks ago and sent it back due to poor black levels. I just got my uhd65 and i'm bummed because the black levels are still awful. Like worse than my IPS 10 year old computer monitor that was 150$ bad. At first the only way I could even get dark blacks was -8 to -12 brightness which totally crushed all the blacks. But then I noticed something. The menu when changing settings is BLACK. Against the black background of my computer its much darker. I also noticed when I choose the sdr to hdr setting it also makes the blacks much darker. I feel like there is something holding back the black level since I know the projector is capable of producing darker blacks.

Is this possibly my source? I have tried the different modes and gamma setting on the UHD65 and none help. Im using the HDMI cable that came in the box. I've used my laptop and my pc and both are the same. I don't have a BR player but am planning on purchasing a PS4.
What GPU do you have ?
If nVidia, go to the nVidia control panel and set "use Vidia color settings". Then choose a combination that has "output dynamic range" set to "full" instead of "limited". That may do it.
You may have to switch the color format and/or color depth , resolution and frequency to make this option available, as some combinations are not possible with HDMI 2.0 . And if you are using HDMI 1.x, you will be even more limited.
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post #2533 of 3427 Old 03-31-2018, 11:44 PM
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Does anyone hear noise coming from their UHD65 other than the fan noise? I hear what I believe to be the pixel shifter oscillating at 120Hz and a subharmonic manifesting itself at 60hz. It drives me nuts like a speaker hum. Maybe I'm just spoiled by my previous projector, a JVC RS40 run in low lamp mode.
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post #2534 of 3427 Old 04-01-2018, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post
That's what I've been saying in all of my posts on the subject. In my last post I stated my Blu-ray player is now set to 24Hz as 60Hz had banding. The player doesn't have color space options, it just outputs 4:4:4 on it's own when set to 24p and Ultra HD Blu-rays are played. Also from my last post note that due to current HDMI limitations there technically isn't such a thing as 60Hz 4:4:4 HDR (24Hz yes). When I set my LG UP970 to 60Hz, it output either 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 on its own for HDR from Ultra HD Blu-rays (but as stated repeatedly, there was banding).


Again; with ALL of the devices I use, banding and getting rid of banding on my UHD60 has come down to setting the proper Color Space / Frequency on them and nothing to do with the UHD60, it's calibration settings, Eco Mode, BrilliantColor, etc.

I can run force 4:4:[email protected] signal when turning the lamp to eco-mode. No difference turning brilliant & Dynamic black color up and down.
If I turn lamp in full mode it look terrible even with brilliant color and dynamic black turned off.

If I run 4:4:[email protected] (24-60P auto) from player. There is no issues. Lamp can be in full mode. Most signals will be in 24P then.
No difference turning brilliant color & Dynamic black color up and down.

I use old star wars movies in Blueray and Blade Runner 2049 in 4K since the problem is very visible on those movies.
I use Sony UBP-X800 player.

So I guess my problem is regarding to cable limitations
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post #2535 of 3427 Old 04-01-2018, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Øyvind Rundgren View Post
I can run force 4:4:[email protected] signal when turning the lamp to eco-mode. No difference turning brilliant & Dynamic black color up and down.
If I turn lamp in full mode it look terrible even with brilliant color and dynamic black turned off.

If I run 4:4:[email protected] (24-60P auto) from player. There is no issues. Lamp can be in full mode. Most signals will be in 24P then.
No difference turning brilliant color & Dynamic black color up and down.

I use old star wars movies in Blueray and Blade Runner 2049 in 4K since the problem is very visible on those movies.
I use Sony UBP-X800 player.

So I guess my problem is regarding to cable limitations
Did you make sure you are inputing to the correct HDMI and that you have the X800 on projector and not TV. That was two of my problems.
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post #2536 of 3427 Old 04-01-2018, 01:10 PM
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Did you make sure you are inputing to the correct HDMI and that you have the X800 on projector and not TV. That was two of my problems.
Yes im sure. X800 setting on projector

HDMI I split sound to the receiver and the picture to the Optoma.
And I use HDCP 2.2 connection correctly for the Optoma
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post #2537 of 3427 Old 04-01-2018, 06:39 PM
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Lightbulb 5.1 optical output - PDIF solution - UHD65

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Originally Posted by jh87 View Post
I have trouble to pass through multi channel audio via S/PDIF on UHD 60, only got two channel audio, anyone have the same problem?
Unfortunately it seems like they only have stereo (even though I’ve seen it listed as Dolby digital). The only solution I could find was purchasing an extra converter box: Avantree 4K 60hz hdmi 2.0a converter audio box at amazon for $40.

I made a mistake and got another converter box that was only 30hz and thought it was working (I did get the audio but then only could get 1080 HD) - I’ll update once I get this up and running.

My setup: Apple TV 4K - UHD65 - Arcam AVR400 - Bowers & Wilkins Speakers.

UPDATE 4.15.2018:
I got a response from Optoma officially confirming the audio out is only 2 channel. Their early literature stated 5.1 but then they updated the data sheet. I had to try 3 audio extractors (the first 2 didn’t work: Tendak and Avantree. The Avantree was advertised as 5.1 but you had to change to 30hz 4K and it was very jittery).

The Audio Extractor that works (full 4K HDR 60hz with 5.1 digital sound) is the J-TECH DIGITAL 4K AUDIO EXTRACTOR which I got on Amazon for $50. This setup works for me because I setup the Apple TV and the J-Tech near the projector and run an optical audio cable 35ft to the Receiveer/Amplifier. It saves on getting an expensive long HDMI lead and wouldn’t work for me anyway because my receiver/amplifier doesn’t support 4K over HDMI.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by panny1; 04-15-2018 at 03:48 PM.
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post #2538 of 3427 Old 04-01-2018, 08:20 PM
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I have strange problem. Just week ago I got Factory Refurb unit from Buydig (FW: C13). Looks awesome (although bit too bright), but for the life of me I couldn't find the FI-setting at the menus. The menus are quite bad so I didn't think much of that. Finally dug the pdf online manual and the pure-engine menu is at the image setting menu, between brightness and reset.

Or that's where it's supposed to be if you trust the manual. On my PJ it's not there. I had to double check the PJ model too and yes it's 65, not 60. (black, and sticker on back says UHD65). But I can't find it anywhere in the menus.

Anyone else? Should I call Optoma? I don't really care for the FI, but I'd like to make sure it's turned off.

Also was there somewhere recommended settings for newbie, like turn off dynamic black and such? I mostly watch movies and play games through Xbox X.
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post #2539 of 3427 Old 04-01-2018, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tpatana View Post
I have strange problem. Just week ago I got Factory Refurb unit from Buydig (FW: C13). Looks awesome (although bit too bright), but for the life of me I couldn't find the FI-setting at the menus. The menus are quite bad so I didn't think much of that. Finally dug the pdf online manual and the pure-engine menu is at the image setting menu, between brightness and reset.

Or that's where it's supposed to be if you trust the manual. On my PJ it's not there. I had to double check the PJ model too and yes it's 65, not 60. (black, and sticker on back says UHD65). But I can't find it anywhere in the menus.

Anyone else? Should I call Optoma? I don't really care for the FI, but I'd like to make sure it's turned off.

Also was there somewhere recommended settings for newbie, like turn off dynamic black and such? I mostly watch movies and play games through Xbox X.
Some menu options on my UHD65 are displayed conditionally depending on the color space. Try with another source device and see if it's there. For me, it was mostly some of the color setting options, though.
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post #2540 of 3427 Old 04-02-2018, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
Hi there - When I first started watching my UHD65 it was SO bright that flipping between light and dark scenes or having bright sections next to dark would sear my eyes. Very very painful and ruined the first few weeks of viewing. To boot, I also saw the rainbow effect quite vividly. I was pretty frustrated! I did some research and several posts I read noted that the searing brightness and the rainbow effect would disappear over time as the bulb brightness diminished over the first 100 hours.

This is exactly what happened. I am over 200 hours now and have NO issues at all with over brightness or the rainbow effect. Gone.

Regarding the other issues you are having with color banding, this is a calibration issue. The discussion here over the last few pages should help you. I strongly advise having your unit calibrated by an ISF technician. There are simply too many setting to figure out on your own, particularly when it comes to calibrating color!
Interesting. That's good to hear though that the effect lessened. I'll probably get a screen soon instead of the bare wall and see if that helps too. I Also need to get something that will play UHD media, so I can test that.

I tried to google some ISF calibration places, but I'm in Fargo, ND and I didn't see anything come up in our area :/
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post #2541 of 3427 Old 04-02-2018, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by madbrain View Post
Some menu options on my UHD65 are displayed conditionally depending on the color space. Try with another source device and see if it's there. For me, it was mostly some of the color setting options, though.
Thanks, I'll try that.

Also as my current AVR doesn't support 4k, so I'm connecting xbox directly to PJ and then xbox to AVR with optical. Unfortunately optical only supports normal dolby (or dts) 5.1. I tried to google HDMI extractor box that would have HDMI pass-through (with 4k/60 and hdcp2.2) and then second HDMI output for just audio, but couldn't find anything. Most boxes have optical as the extracted output, which is essentially same what I currently have.

Anyone know a box that would extract HD/MA 7.1 from HDMI cable to secondary HDMI? Or any other option I could do to fix that? Or is it easiest solution just buy new AVR?
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post #2542 of 3427 Old 04-02-2018, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tpatana View Post
Or any other option I could do to fix that? Or is it easiest solution just buy new AVR?
Avoid the trouble and get a new AVR, a cheap 4K one to tide you over until HDMI 2.1 hits.
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post #2543 of 3427 Old 04-02-2018, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris404 View Post
Avoid the trouble and get a new AVR, a cheap 4K one to tide you over until HDMI 2.1 hits.
For one, organizing/connecting the cables is a hassle so I'd rather swap AVR only once in long time. Also quick reading about 2.1, I don't think I need it especially as the UHD65 doesn't support it.

Most likely I'm getting some mid-tier atmos AVR if/when the prices come down bit more, but I'm trying to wonder if there's any proper way to get the 7.1 HD/MA audio with my current AVR until that happens. Good guess would be that I'll find atmos avr around black friday, give or take. Also I'd like 7.1.4 setup without external amp, which at the moment is unfortunately expensive.
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post #2544 of 3427 Old 04-02-2018, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tpatana View Post
For one, organizing/connecting the cables is a hassle so I'd rather swap AVR only once in long time. Also quick reading about 2.1, I don't think I need it especially as the UHD65 doesn't support it.

Most likely I'm getting some mid-tier atmos AVR if/when the prices come down bit more, but I'm trying to wonder if there's any proper way to get the 7.1 HD/MA audio with my current AVR until that happens. Good guess would be that I'll find atmos avr around black friday, give or take. Also I'd like 7.1.4 setup without external amp, which at the moment is unfortunately expensive.
Not with Xbox but most UHD-BD players have two HDMI outs - one for video at 4K with HDCP 2.2 and one for audio.

You can connect the video port to the UHD65 and the other to your TrueHD/DTS HD-MA decode-capable AVR for lossless audio.
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post #2545 of 3427 Old 04-02-2018, 08:48 PM
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What is the overall turnaround time after Optoma receives a unit before they ship it back out when RMA'ing for firmware upgrades?
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post #2546 of 3427 Old 04-03-2018, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post
SamF, you pretty much described my journey with my UHD60's picture settings to a tee. When I first got the projector, I saw the purple within an hour of use. I then spent time trying to get rid of it. For me, turning BrilliantColor off solved the issue. Most calibration reviews I've read say to lower it or turn it off. However, I personally like the mid-tone color boost it provides and think the picture is better with it on but not all the way.
Later on after trying many different settings I too turned off Dynamic Black. I mainly turned it off because my projector image would flicker in dark scenes. I then started to NOT see the purple issue using Cinema and HDR modes like before and then put two and two together.
Now I too am trying to adjust the User mode once again to incorporate BrilliantColor back into the mix while Dynamic Black is off.
Now I'm close to matching Cinema but with a little less color and more contrast but with an image not as bright as I would like.
Currently, I'm mainly using the Cinema mode. I personally like it myself. I now only see the purple issues in extreme situations that being it out and that, so far, has been confined to none HDR 4K videos on YouTube with light blue skies with compression artifacts in particular.
For me adjusting the Color setting seems to change red and blue more than the other colors. Red seems to get oversaturated quickly. I see this especially while using the Apple 4K TV.
Anyway, I'm mostly using Cinema mode as I'm tired of spending more time adjusting the image than enjoying content.
After everything is said and done I do like the image quality of my UHD60. It's way better than the Optoma HD33 I had and really enjoyed. I'm accustomed to and know the limitations of DLP from using it for many years. The shock of the limited Black levels and thus Contrast of DLP came and went for me long ago.
Hi Wesley, I decided to go with UHD65 and I have to say that the difference is pretty dramatic. I had the exact same problems with the over-saturation of the reds (also on Apple TV 4K as it happens) and while I was able to get the UHD60 settings corrected to fix the reds, it ended up with the overall picture being a bit dull. Also, the black levels were starting to bug me. I still have to get the UHD65 settings dialed, but like most reviews say, the colours produced by the UHD65's RGBRGB colour wheel seem more accurate than the RGBCY wheel on the UHD60. Not noticing any difference in brightness either, since as I said, configuring the UHD60 for good colour balance seems to require lowering a lot of the default settings and thereby reducing the useable brightness.

This article really captures my experience perfectly: https://www.tvspecialists.com/optoma-uhd65-vs-uhd60/

For the current difference in price between the two ($150 CAD), the UHD65 is worth it in my opinion.
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post #2547 of 3427 Old 04-03-2018, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SamF View Post
Hi Wesley, I decided to go with UHD65 and I have to say that the difference is pretty dramatic. I had the exact same problems with the over-saturation of the reds (also on Apple TV 4K as it happens) and while I was able to get the UHD60 settings corrected to fix the reds, it ended up with the overall picture being a bit dull. Also, the black levels were starting to bug me. I still have to get the UHD65 settings dialed, but like most reviews say, the colours produced by the UHD65's RGBRGB colour wheel seem more accurate than the RGBCY wheel on the UHD60. Not noticing any difference in brightness either, since as I said, configuring the UHD60 for good colour balance seems to require lowering a lot of the default settings and thereby reducing the useable brightness.

This article really captures my experience perfectly: https://www.tvspecialists.com/optoma-uhd65-vs-uhd60/

For the current difference in price between the two ($150 CAD), the UHD65 is worth it in my opinion.

Everything you just said is spot on with what I've observed with the UHD60 and the Apple 4K TV in particular. Every time I set the USER settings "properly", I end up with a picture a bit duller than the other modes and that, like you said "require lowering a lot of the default settings and thereby reducing the useable brightness." Also, just to be putting in down for the record: lowering BrilliantColor reduces overall brightness. Adjusting all of the settings one way or another has never produces too inaccurate colors to me but just makes the overall image either more or less desirable.
For sure the RGBRGB color wheel is the way to go for more accurate colors. The reviews I read state that when the UHD65 is properly calibrated, some scenes are actually brighter than the UHD60 and the color is better overall for sure.
I'm happy with the UHD60 in my living room setup. I've dialed the USER settings in such a way that (though less accurate) produce an image that's not dull and more comparable to CINEMA and HDR.
I hope you can get your UHD65 dialed in the way you like it. Enjoy!

Display: Optoma UHD51A Projector > Elite Screens R135WH1 ezFrame | 7.2.4 Audio: Onkyo TX-RZ920 9.2ch Network A/V Receiver, M-5010 2ch Amplifier; Definitive Technology ProCenter 2000, ProMonitor 1000(x10), SuperCube I & 4000 | Sources: PC, DirecTV, Apple 4K, Fire Stick 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Chromecast & Roku Ultras, Xbox One X, PlayStation 4 Pro & Nintendo Switch | Remote: Harmony Elite | HDMI: 40' Monoprice DynamicView+4x1 Switch
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post #2548 of 3427 Old 04-03-2018, 12:23 PM
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Hello all,

So I thought all was satisfactory with my viewing experience. However, I have not been convinced I've been viewing true 4k/HDR. The UHD65 showed it was displaying 2160p @ 24Hz.

Last night, I was watching Batman Begins 4K blu-ray disc, and decided to change my Samsung 4k player's Resolution setting from Auto, to 2160p. I then re-watched the movie, and it displayed a messed up picture (screenshot attached).

So... my question is, am I truly getting 4K displayed? If I am, then why would making the player display at 2160p only, not allow the 4K movie to play?

I am running an Fibre Optic HDMI cable via my Onkyo TSX-353 AVR. I have read that the Onkyo receivers don't push out a full 5v from the HDMI port, which may be making my cable not functioning correctly.


Thank you again,
James.
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post #2549 of 3427 Old 04-03-2018, 12:41 PM
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What is the overall turnaround time after Optoma receives a unit before they ship it back out when RMA'ing for firmware upgrades?
For me it was a little over a week. Mine now has the C13 update.
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post #2550 of 3427 Old 04-03-2018, 10:18 PM
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For me it was a little over a week. Mine now has the C13 update.
Anybody know what improved with c13?
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