Optoma UHD60/65 Owners Thread - Page 88 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2611 of 3464 Old 04-24-2018, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vagos1103gr1 View Post
My uhd65 came from the rma firmware update to the latest that is c13. I see some more options on the picture settings. Another hdr setting and a 3D setting. What is that is mean? Does support 3D with the latest firmware?
That's very interesting. According to a user review post in Amazon.de, Optoma UHD550x does support PC 3D with firmware C13. Including snippet about the 3D settings that worked for the user. Credit goes to the original user "cube". Sorry that I could not give a reference to the link since my post count is less than 5. Would someone be able to try this out in Optoma UHD60 running C13?

Quote:
========================= 3D =================== =========
The UHD550x can play a 3D image with the firmware c13 !! However, this is subject to some limitations. It is not possible to connect a Blu Ray player with a 3D movie, because the UHD550x does not accept "Full HD 3D Frame Packing". As a signal source is therefore probably only a corresponding PC in question. In my case with NVIDIA graphics card.
1) Create a self-defined triggering of 1920x1080 with 120hz via the NVIDIA Control Panel.
2) Activate the 3D mode on the projector.
3) There are two ways to play a 3D image. Either NVIDIA NV NVIA 3D Vision is activated - which requires the appropriate hardware. Or you use the freeware sView. In the following I assume sView:
a. Beamer as the primary screen
b. View -> Stereo Out -> Stereo
c. Eyewear -> change device -> Eyewear
d. Shutter Glasses -> Show Extra Options
e. Eyewear -> Quad Buffered Type -> OpenGL emulated
f. Eyewear -> Glasses Control Codes -> eDimensional auto on / off
4) Play movie, turn DLP Link glasses on and enjoy!
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post #2612 of 3464 Old 04-25-2018, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JeffChap View Post
Yes. Here's a pic of my UHD65 with my wall sconces on. The room is lighter than this pic portrays it, due to the phone camera's auto adjustments. I seldom use the overhead lights, because these alone provide plenty of Illumination. As you can see, the screen is bright enough for viewing, although the blacks are fairly washed out. And this is with the lamp set to Eco mode. It can get significantly brighter if you need it.

Here's the same image with the lights off.

BTW, the screen is 1.1 gain. You could probably get darker blacks with a lower gain screen if you're going to be dealing with ambient light on a regular basis. We usually have the room completely blacked out for movies, or at most a very dim light at the far end opposite from the screen.

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Thanks for the response. That's pretty nice looking. Are there any windows in your room? Looks just like dimmed wall sconces on in the pic. I'll have overhead lights. Two dimmable sections in the room. One section over the theater part and the other and the back of the room behind the projector. That's also where there is a window. I know you say the room is brighter than the pic, much more bright or a little? The wife won't go for a dark room all the time. I would no prob but she won't. Movies on the other hand will be full blackout. Sports will have light in the room say on a Sunday afternoon for football.
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post #2613 of 3464 Old 04-25-2018, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Gameaholic View Post
Thanks for the response. That's pretty nice looking. Are there any windows in your room? Looks just like dimmed wall sconces on in the pic. I'll have overhead lights. Two dimmable sections in the room. One section over the theater part and the other and the back of the room behind the projector. That's also where there is a window. I know you say the room is brighter than the pic, much more bright or a little? The wife won't go for a dark room all the time. I would no prob but she won't. Movies on the other hand will be full blackout. Sports will have light in the room say on a Sunday afternoon for football.
No, there are no windows in the room. The overhead lighting can be dimmed, but the wall sconces are either on or off. With them on, it's bright enough for you to sit around and converse, eat, whatever. It's about the same level of brightness that we keep our living room at when we have people over. And the picture is still easily bright enough to see. Bottom line is, I think the 65 would easily be bright enough for your room if you want to go with that over the 60.

I'll try to get a better picture shortly with someone in the room so that you can get a better idea of the overall brightness. It's hard to judge with nothing but those black chairs in the foreground.
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post #2614 of 3464 Old 04-25-2018, 01:42 PM
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Talking Help with HDR settings

Hello All,

I am a brand new proud owner of an UHD60 and I want to know where I can find a configuration for HDR settings like brightness, contrast, color, gamma , etc? I have my UHD60 since Saturday and it took my 3 days to figure how to obtain 4K HDR content. I am projecting a little bit over 110" diagonal. And now I want to have nearly a perfect configuration. The change from SDR to HDR was noticeable and very pleasing.

Another thing I saw, over 3 thousand pizel I do not see 60hz, I se 60hz at 2 thousand pixels. Does anyone know what's wrong? I have an X box One S, A sony UBP X800, a Yamaha RX-V483, and a 25 ft HDMI cable that supports 4K @ 60Hz.

I will appreciate any help.
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post #2615 of 3464 Old 04-25-2018, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffChap View Post
No, there are no windows in the room. The overhead lighting can be dimmed, but the wall sconces are either on or off. With them on, it's bright enough for you to sit around and converse, eat, whatever. It's about the same level of brightness that we keep our living room at when we have people over. And the picture is still easily bright enough to see. Bottom line is, I think the 65 would easily be bright enough for your room if you want to go with that over the 60.

I'll try to get a better picture shortly with someone in the room so that you can get a better idea of the overall brightness. It's hard to judge with nothing but those black chairs in the foreground.
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That's good news. I wanted the 65 for the Pure Motion for when I watch sports, which the 60 does not have. The higher contrast and better color wheel too, of course.
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post #2616 of 3464 Old 04-27-2018, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris404 View Post
I have this issue with the UDH60 and Apple TV 4K. There are at times handshake issues (blank screen) and the AVR (Yamaha RX-A2070) trying to negotiate a connection between the UHD60 & Apple TV 4K.

I use a 50ft RUIPRO fiber optic HDMI cable between the AVR & UHD60. Connecting and disconnecting the HDMI cable on the Apple TV 4K multiple times fixes it (sometimes) No issues on other sources (like TiVo) when the AVR processes the signal to 4K.
Update: I replaced the 50ft RUIPRO cable with a 50ft Monoprice fiber optic cable. Mode syncing is much better now, happening within a couple of seconds.
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post #2617 of 3464 Old 04-27-2018, 08:31 AM
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I hate when I have to quote myself but I wanted to make a correction.


I was changing some projector settings and the same thing detailed below happened but with the Apple 4K TV. Instead of the Apple 4K TV outputting 4:2:0 like it was set on, it was sending out 4:2:2 after the setting adjustment I made on the projector (I don't know specifically which one it was). I knew something was wrong when I saw color banding while watching Altered Carbon on the Netflix app. I checked the receiver's on-screen display (thank goodness it shows some signal audio/video details) and saw 4:2:2. Again; like the Roku, the Apple 4K TV's Chroma Setting said 4:2:0 but the projector was getting 4:2:2. I had to do the same procedure listed below for the Roku Ultra to get it back right again.


In short, there is something happening with the HDMI connection between the projector and devices (with the AV receiver in the middle) when I make certain setting changes on the projector and it isn't related to the Roku Ultra as I mentioned before.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post
Great to hear you can finally enjoy some HDR and see what all the fuss is about.
The Netflix app stays in HDR until exited normally. The YouTube, VUDU, Fandago and other apps with HDR content only switch to HDR with HDR playing and then back to SDR within their UI's. The Roku's main interface is SDR like the Nvidia Shield and not like the Apple 4K TV.
Something is a foot if you have to re-sync each time a switch happens between HDR to SDR and vise versa. Mode switching between HDR and SDR is slow enough already on the UHD60 with the firmware I have: but I guess I can't complain because at least it's working.
I may have already mentioned this here or another thread and please forgive me if I have because I can't remember. My Roku will switches from 4:2:0 to 4:2:2 when I change certain projector settings. I have to manually change the setting twice on the Roku to get it right again. Severe color banding appears after it happens. I'm leaning more on it being a Roku issue because the setting is displayed incorrectly in it's settings menu: it says 4:2:0 but it's ouputting 4:2:2. At least I know what's going on with my particular issue. Now it's just more annoying than anything.
You having a different issue on the UHD65 leaves the Roku as the common denominator.

Display: Optoma UHD51A Projector > Elite Screens R135WH1 ezFrame | 7.2.4 Audio: Onkyo TX-RZ920 9.2ch Network A/V Receiver, M-5010 2ch Amplifier; Definitive Technology ProCenter 2000, ProMonitor 1000(x10), SuperCube I & 4000 | Sources: PC, DirecTV, Apple 4K, Fire Stick 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Chromecast & Roku Ultras, Xbox One X, PlayStation 4 Pro & Nintendo Switch | Remote: Harmony Elite | HDMI: 40' Monoprice DynamicView+4x1 Switch
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post #2618 of 3464 Old 04-28-2018, 03:42 PM
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I don't know if anyone else is experiencing darker/dimmer pictures from bluray and possibly netflix with xbox one x. I've switched to a Panasonic recently and found the picture to be much brighter and hence better in every way. Previously I had thought it was due to the projector itself and was looking into getting an ALR with higher gain screen. But since switching over to the UB900, I don't feel the need to. I'm also running the projector in bright mode only. By the way, my room has dark walls/ceiling and carpet with an Elite Aeon cinewhite screen.

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post #2619 of 3464 Old 04-29-2018, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btmille View Post
I received an FAQ PDF back from Optoma Tech support.

In that, they showed how to Reset the HDMI 2.2 port. Here is how to do that:

1. Please turn off and unplug your projector. While the projector is unplug hold down the menu button on the unit.
2. While continuing to hold down the menu button, reconnect the power plug to the projector
You should see the power LED flashing between red and blue
3. Once the Power LED switch to a flashing blue LED only. IMMEDIATELY let go of the menu button and wait unit you see the power LED flash purple. Once it is purple IMMEDIATELY press the menu button once.
4.After you press the menu once the power LED should flash purple and the TEMP / LAMP LED should flash red together.
Let the projector go though and reset the HDCP back to HDCP 2.2. Once completed the LED will flash blue then red, which means you are done and HDCP 2.2 is active

Also, if you set up the settings in 1080 mode. You may need to readjust your Display settings in 4K mode.
1. Click menu
2. Under Display, click image shift
3. re shift your image back to H 0 or V 0

Hope this helps everyone! Soooo glad I don't have to send this back.


Also, for anyone who had "noisy" white images or color banding issues.
1. Click menu
2. Go to the setup menu settings
Then mouse over and UP!! (I didn't see these settings before)
3. Then click OPTIONS
4. Scroll down to HDMI 1 or 2 EQ (these settings help with distortion on longer HDMI cable runs)


PM me for the PDF file if you need it.
How much time does it take to reset?
For some reason, my HDCP 2.2 port stopped working, no display. Trying to reset.
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post #2620 of 3464 Old 04-29-2018, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bravia Sony View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by vagos1103gr1 View Post
My uhd65 came from the rma firmware update to the latest that is c13. I see some more options on the picture settings. Another hdr setting and a 3D setting. What is that is mean? Does support 3D with the latest firmware?
That's very interesting. According to a user review post in Amazon.de, Optoma UHD550x does support PC 3D with firmware C13. Including snippet about the 3D settings that worked for the user. Credit goes to the original user "cube". Sorry that I could not give a reference to the link since my post count is less than 5. Would someone be able to try this out in Optoma UHD60 running C13?

Quote:
========================= 3D =================== =========
The UHD550x can play a 3D image with the firmware c13 !! However, this is subject to some limitations. It is not possible to connect a Blu Ray player with a 3D movie, because the UHD550x does not accept "Full HD 3D Frame Packing". As a signal source is therefore probably only a corresponding PC in question. In my case with NVIDIA graphics card.
1) Create a self-defined triggering of 1920x1080 with 120hz via the NVIDIA Control Panel.
2) Activate the 3D mode on the projector.
3) There are two ways to play a 3D image. Either NVIDIA NV NVIA 3D Vision is activated - which requires the appropriate hardware. Or you use the freeware sView. In the following I assume sView:
a. Beamer as the primary screen
b. View -> Stereo Out -> Stereo
c. Eyewear -> change device -> Eyewear
d. Shutter Glasses -> Show Extra Options
e. Eyewear -> Quad Buffered Type -> OpenGL emulated
f. Eyewear -> Glasses Control Codes -> eDimensional auto on / off
4) Play movie, turn DLP Link glasses on and enjoy!
Anyone been able to try this out?
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post #2621 of 3464 Old 05-01-2018, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psandesh View Post
How much time does it take to reset?
For some reason, my HDCP 2.2 port stopped working, no display. Trying to reset.
It resets pretty quickly however it took me a few try’s to get the sequence correct
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post #2622 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 08:44 AM
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Hello all,


I am now the proud owner of an Optoma UHD65...amazing projector. I haven't really tinkered with the picture settings, I use Reference for movies/tv and Game for videogames. I also have it on Dynamic lamp mode so I can get the most out of the lamp life.


Does anyone have any recommendations for calibration settings for movies/TV and videogames for the UHD65? Are there any calibration discs that you would recommend to get the most out of my new projector? The projector is in a pitch black room and is being projected onto a 120" silverticket screen. I use a PS4 for games and the Sony 4k blu ray player for 4k/normal blu rays and Netflix. Everything is connected to a Denon 4400 receiver.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2623 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentKnight View Post
Hello all,


I am now the proud owner of an Optoma UHD65...amazing projector. I haven't really tinkered with the picture settings, I use Reference for movies/tv and Game for videogames. I also have it on Dynamic lamp mode so I can get the most out of the lamp life.


Does anyone have any recommendations for calibration settings for movies/TV and videogames for the UHD65? Are there any calibration discs that you would recommend to get the most out of my new projector? The projector is in a pitch black room and is being projected onto a 120" silverticket screen. I use a PS4 for games and the Sony 4k blu ray player for 4k/normal blu rays and Netflix. Everything is connected to a Denon 4400 receiver.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
To get the longest lamp life, you need to choose Eco over Dynamic. Dynamic will still ramp up brighter when it feels it needs to (you can hear the fan speed up if it's quiet enough) whereas Eco locks it down full time.



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post #2624 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffChap View Post
To get the longest lamp life, you need to choose Eco over Dynamic. Dynamic will still ramp up brighter when it feels it needs to (you can hear the fan speed up if it's quiet enough) whereas Eco locks it down full time.



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Thank you for the reply.


The manual says that Dynamic gives 15,000 hours and ECO gives 10,000 hours.
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post #2625 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SilentKnight View Post
Thank you for the reply.


The manual says that Dynamic gives 15,000 hours and ECO gives 10,000 hours.
I don't find the hours posted in my manual, and I searched it electronically (PDF). All I found was:

"Dynamic Black
Use to automatically adjust the picture brightness to give optimum contrast performance.

Brightness Mode
Adjust the brightness mode settings.

Bright: Choose "Bright" to increase the brightness.

Eco: Choose "Eco" to dim the projector lamp which will lower power consumption and extend the lamp life."

However, I did see where it says that Dynamic is ~30 - 100% brightness. So maybe the amount of time it spends at the lower end of the range explains the difference. I just know that when I enable Dynamic Black, I hear the fan speed up and I, perhaps mistakenly, assumed this meant shorter lamp life.

I'll have to play with it again when I get home. I used Dynamic Black initially and liked it for the most part, but I noticed some other issues like posterization that caused me to turn it off. I've since made a lot of other changes and will concede that what I was seeing may not have actually been due to Dynamic Black after all. I'll try it again and let you know.

Thanks for pointing this out.

BTW, I also have mine in a completely dark room with a 106" Silver ticket screen, a Denon S730, and an Xbox One X. I'll be happy to post up some screen shots of my settings for you. I've tried to find the best compromise between HDR and non-HDR material, as I (read "my wife") doesn't want to change settings every time we switch between the two. The results is that HDR is perhaps not as vivid as you might expect, but it looks more realistic to me that way anyway. Some HDR looks oversaturated to me, especially skin tones.

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Last edited by JeffChap; 05-03-2018 at 01:11 PM.
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post #2626 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffChap View Post
I don't find the hours posted in my manual, and I searched it electronically (PDF). All I found was:

"Dynamic Black
Use to automatically adjust the picture brightness to give optimum contrast performance.

Brightness Mode
Adjust the brightness mode settings.

Bright: Choose "Bright" to increase the brightness.

Eco: Choose "Eco" to dim the projector lamp which will lower power consumption and extend the lamp life."

However, I did see where it says that Dynamic is ~30 - 100% brightness. So maybe the amount of time it spends at the lower end of the range explains the difference. I just know that when I enable Dynamic Black, I hear the fan speed up and I, perhaps mistakenly, assumed this meant shorter lamp life.

I'll have to play with it again when I get home. I used Dynamic Black initially and liked it for the most part, but I noticed some other issues like posterization that caused me to turn it off. I've since made a lot of other changes and will concede that what I was seeing may not have actually been due to Dynamic Black after all. I'll try it again and let you know.

Thanks for pointing this out.

BTW, I also have mine in a completely dark room with a 106" Silver ticket screen, a Denon S730, and an Xbox One X. I'll be happy to post up some screen shots of my settings for you. I've tried to find the best compromise between HDR and non-HDR material, as I (read "my wife") doesn't want to change settings every time we switch between the two. The results is that HDR is perhaps not as vivid as you might expect, but it looks more realistic to me that way anyway. Some HDR looks oversaturated to me, especially skin tones.

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Yes, I would love to see your settings. Do you recommend any calibration discs?

My mistake it wasn't from the manual it was from the Optoma website.

"The lamp life on the UHD65 is a robust 10,000 hours in ECO mode and 15,000 hours in Dynamic mode."
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post #2627 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentKnight View Post
Yes, I would love to see your settings. Do you recommend any calibration discs?
I haven't used any. I've just relied upon the Xbox's calibration screens and some stiil images I found online.

One in particular demonstrated that the one of the Optoma features was clearly blowing out the blues and reds until I turned it off. I don't recall off hand what it was, but I'll remember when I see it and will let you know.

Here's the calibration image I used:

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post #2628 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 04:10 PM
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I use that test pattern too. Good to check color saturation. Don't try to get the white and black circles solid. Overall, the projector's image is pretty good out of the gate (I have the UHD60).
My lamp started flickering in Eco mode with low light scenes, then all the time and I had to turn it off. I thought it was Dynamic Black at first but is wasn't that. Hopefully yours will work correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffChap View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentKnight View Post
Yes, I would love to see your settings. Do you recommend any calibration discs?
I haven't used any. I've just relied upon the Xbox's calibration screens and some stiil images I found online.

One in particular demonstrated that the one of the Optoma features was clearly blowing out the blues and reds until I turned it off. I don't recall off hand what it was, but I'll remember when I see it and will let you know.

Here's the calibration image I used:

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Display: Optoma UHD51A Projector > Elite Screens R135WH1 ezFrame | 7.2.4 Audio: Onkyo TX-RZ920 9.2ch Network A/V Receiver, M-5010 2ch Amplifier; Definitive Technology ProCenter 2000, ProMonitor 1000(x10), SuperCube I & 4000 | Sources: PC, DirecTV, Apple 4K, Fire Stick 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Chromecast & Roku Ultras, Xbox One X, PlayStation 4 Pro & Nintendo Switch | Remote: Harmony Elite | HDMI: 40' Monoprice DynamicView+4x1 Switch
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post #2629 of 3464 Old 05-03-2018, 06:02 PM
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Sorry these are a little blurry. I was in a hurry and the camera didn't want to cooperate. I made no changes to the CMS and RGB Gain defaults.

It was PureColor that blew out the red and blue, so that's why it's off.

I tried Dynamic Black again and remembered what I didn't like about it. It makes orangeish yellow on a black background, like the opening titles for Guardians of the Galaxy, turn greenish. And it changes visibly after the image comes up.

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post #2630 of 3464 Old 05-04-2018, 06:54 AM
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To SilentKnight and all new UHD60/65 owners:


I would personally turn off Dynamic Black, Reduce BrilliantColor to 6 and reduce the "regular" Color Setting (defaults to 23/18 on Cinema/HDR modes on UHD60 I believe) down closer to 0 (I go as high as 3/6 before red gets just too over saturated-loosing picture detail in red areas) right out of the gate before you watch much content and get spoiled on the default settings. I can't speak for PureColor (having a UHD60 without it) but it being off sounds right as it seems every "Color" option on these projectors introduces some un-wanted/inaccurate effect. Also it seems Red, Blue and Magenta get blown out/over saturated very quickly and easily as color settings are increased. I've never had an issue with Yellow or Green (the UHD60 has a different color wheel though: 5 segment RGBYC).


I personally went around the world with various setting options when I first got my UHD60 and wish I had just used the settings above right out of the gate and had been done with it. Very similar to JeffChap's settings.


Sharpness defaults to 8 on the UHD60. I haven't seen any ringing with that setting and have never touched it. But with Ultra Detail, I started out thinking it was great but have since turned it off as well.


Those are the "big ones". All the other settings come down to personal preference and/or calibration.


YMMV
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post #2631 of 3464 Old 05-05-2018, 01:10 PM
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I’m looking to get a UHD player to go with a UHD65. I’m starting to learn of things like the differences between HDR and Dolby Vision. Is there such a difference in between HDR, HDR+, and HDR10+?? From what I gather the UHD65 doesn’t support Dolby Vision so I’m not too pressed to get a player that supports that. What I do want is to maximize the picture I get out of the UHD65. I’m eyeing the Sony UBP-X800. It has great reviews. Also saw Panasonic is releasing new players next month. Noteably the DP-UB420. It’s about $150 more than the X800 but I noticed the UB420 has HDR10+ support. All I can see if the Sony is HDR support. Are they the same. Should I wait? X800 is more of the price range I’m looking to be at, but I’d feel silly for not maximizing the potential of the UHD65. Help please!!
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post #2632 of 3464 Old 05-05-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Gameaholic View Post
I’m looking to get a UHD player to go with a UHD65. I’m starting to learn of things like the differences between HDR and Dolby Vision. Is there such a difference in between HDR, HDR+, and HDR10+?? From what I gather the UHD65 doesn’t support Dolby Vision so I’m not too pressed to get a player that supports that. What I do want is to maximize the picture I get out of the UHD65. I’m eyeing the Sony UBP-X800. It has great reviews. Also saw Panasonic is releasing new players next month. Noteably the DP-UB420. It’s about $150 more than the X800 but I noticed the UB420 has HDR10+ support. All I can see if the Sony is HDR support. Are they the same. Should I wait? X800 is more of the price range I’m looking to be at, but I’d feel silly for not maximizing the potential of the UHD65. Help please!!
I had picked up an x800 last year and wasn't too impressed with it. It was a bit glitchy then too, (firmware update may have dealt with that). Also, there's no read out. I returned it and picked up an xbox one x. Thought it was great as it does triple duty as my streamer, gaming, and uhd disc player. The picture was a little dark but I had attributed that to the uhd65. Recently I acquire a Panasonic UBD 900. Holy cow what a difference, nice beautiful bright picture (I run in bright mode full time). I was thinking about upgrading the screen (have an Elite Aeon cinewhite) but not anymore. With that being said, the UBD 900 is also glitchy. Start up can be slow, sometimes it get stuck and the picture can get mangled initially.

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post #2633 of 3464 Old 05-10-2018, 07:13 PM
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Hello all,


I am now the proud owner of an Optoma UHD65...amazing projector. I haven't really tinkered with the picture settings, I use Reference for movies/tv and Game for videogames. I also have it on Dynamic lamp mode so I can get the most out of the lamp life.


Does anyone have any recommendations for calibration settings for movies/TV and videogames for the UHD65? Are there any calibration discs that you would recommend to get the most out of my new projector? The projector is in a pitch black room and is being projected onto a 120" silverticket screen. I use a PS4 for games and the Sony 4k blu ray player for 4k/normal blu rays and Netflix. Everything is connected to a Denon 4400 receiver.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey there. I don't have any answers to your questions, but I was wondering if you could comment on your new projector and how it fairs with ambient light?
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post #2634 of 3464 Old 05-10-2018, 07:57 PM
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hey guys,

i've set reference brightness to be eco and HDR to be bright.

whenever the UHD65 changes, it doesn't change the brightness mode accordingly. it just follows the last setting of brightness mode which makes me constantly go to menu to change it manually.

is this normal??!
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post #2635 of 3464 Old 05-10-2018, 10:14 PM
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Thank you for the reply.


The manual says that Dynamic gives 15,000 hours and ECO gives 10,000 hours.
In Dynamic the PJ will analyse the frame brightness and set the lamp intensity to match. Since most content requires less than full brightness the bulb typically runs at less than 70% intensity. Coincidentally the on-off contrast ratio is maximized. I don't have a UHD65 but I been doing a bit of research into DLP PJ's Smarteco/DynamicEco modes.
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post #2636 of 3464 Old 05-11-2018, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
In Dynamic the PJ will analyse the frame brightness and set the lamp intensity to match. Since most content requires less than full brightness the bulb typically runs at less than 70% intensity. Coincidentally the on-off contrast ratio is maximized. I don't have a UHD65 but I been doing a bit of research into DLP PJ's Smarteco/DynamicEco modes.
Is lamp dimming as fast as the mechanical iris on the LCD and DILA projectors? Basically is it better or not?

Jack
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post #2637 of 3464 Old 05-11-2018, 09:13 PM
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Is lamp dimming as fast as the mechanical iris on the LCD and DILA projectors? Basically is it better or not?
It seems faster on my BenQ than the DI on my low end Epsons and certainly it doesn't have any annoying noise. I don't know whether it's as good as the best DIs. OTOH, unlike a DI, it considerably extends lamp life and that has the effect of keeping max brightness, higher, longer.
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post #2638 of 3464 Old 05-11-2018, 10:59 PM
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First post on the forum.. recent purchaser of a UHD65. I did take the time to read almost every entry in the full 88 current pages of the thread, to hopefully catch someone else running into this same issue. Some people did comment on it, but a clear answer was outside of my purview.

Running UHD65 with a Sony UBP-X800 player. In a nutshell, the best way to describe the issue is that whenever I have HDR enabled on the X800, and HDR enabled on the 65, low-lit scenes look bad, way too dark, with very little contrast; almost like I am getting 2x the HDR. Well-lit scenes look "ok", but normally-lit scenes look a bit dark to me. Whereas, when I disable HDR on the X800, and keep it enabled on the 65, the picture is drastically better with regard to contrast detail. Just watched a 4kHDR movie tonight, and was rather pleased overall with it using only HDR from the projector. Alternately, if I keep HDR enabled on the X800, and remove on the 65, everything looks washed out. I did have the X800 working with my Sony 4k TV before, and noticed no problems like this, so I do not suspect it to be either machine specifically, but rather in their pairing.

Am I just a novice, and it is common knowledge to only have one set to HDR?

I have tried a couple different HDMI cables, as well as bypassing my AVR. No change. I've also tweaked the picture settings in a few modes with little to no benefit. Even played a little with the output of the X800, and it seems like 4:4:4 is the best, but am not really sure that I should have to mess with that.

If the answer is that I basically have to choose that either the X800 does HDR, or that the 65 does it, that is fine, it is at least a starting point for me to work with. Perhaps also because both my TV and X800 were both Sony, they were telling each other not to do 2x the processing?

Thanks to anyone who can help out with this. I may also have a pro come out and dial it in. The one poster on here seemed very happy after having done that.
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post #2639 of 3464 Old 05-12-2018, 01:41 PM
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Black levels on UHD65 compared to older Optomas (HD 7100)? Installed my movie room back in 2006 with a completely darkened room using a 118" white screen with a 1.3 gain.

Definitely time for an upgrade and I'm considering the UHD65, but am concerned about the black levels. Now the HD7100 had good black levels for its time (2006), and I find them acceptable although I see room for improvement. Just wanted to check the forum how the black levels have improved in the last 10+ years in general and in the UHD 65 specifically?

Last edited by fino; 05-12-2018 at 01:56 PM. Reason: Unfinished
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post #2640 of 3464 Old 05-14-2018, 01:54 PM
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i watched "Cobra Kai" on youtube red, 4K, using the xbox one x this last weekend. wow, the 4k quality looks amazing! watched one episode SDR 1080p and i could not stand the drop in quality.
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