AVS Forum Special Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Selma, Alabama, USA
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 190 Post(s)
• 4K Image via XPR looks amazing and sharp for the price. Faux 4K (=haters gonna hate), faux HDR “compatible” I’m ok with but the 4K on the screen is real enough. I’m personally just amazed at the engineering and ingenuity involved in getting 4K from current DLP tech down to a reasonable price at this point in time. Side note: ever notice when a new projector is listed for sale, someone (who knows about all of this already to be sure) asks the question “is it real 4K or Faux-4K” just to stir things up?
• 3D looks and performs great and has a Brightness adjustment (I didn’t need it)
o Although PureMotion shows to be Low, it’s been said that because it is grayed out, it’s not being used. However, I don’t know. When I set PureMotion to Off everywhere else, it still shows up as Low in 3D mode: i.e. not just copying what it was last on.
• Bright, good colorful image (with some adjustments) with reduced RBE
o No "purple haze" artifacts or any other types of artifacts added through video processing when color settings are set high like the UHD60 (personal pet peeves/rant)
o All the basic and advanced (Color Matching & RGB Gain/ Bias) picture settings allow for a perfect picture eventually (to be fair, I haven’t really had to do much with the UHD51A except turn Sharpness down, Color down a touch for some bright, intense shades of Reds and turn TrueMotion Off (personally not a fan, it seems to work OK).
• HDR Compatibility – at least the HDR10 metadata is being used for something. It’s OK visually – more so colorful more so than having super bright whites and super dark blacks (so contrast suffers). The HDR would be great and awesome if I lived in a bubble where the UHD51A was my only display device and I didn’t use 4K HDR LCD TV’s, Dolby Vision and the like. The different HDR picture modes seem to all have meaningful purposes and visual differences. I just use Standard myself.
• PureMotion – it works. It hitches every now and then on complex motion scenes but overall it seems solid. Good to have it as an option for those who want to use it.
• Low noise levels, even in Bright mode. XPR buzz hasn’t been an issue. The only time the XPR has been heard is switching from 3D (1080p) back to 4K.
• Vertical lens shift and 1.3x zoom make installation easier
• Alexa – seems like a good option as everything seems headed to the world of “Internet-of-things”. With my Logitech remote, I personally don’t have a use case for it.
• Remote is smaller and nice to me (especially since it doesn’t appear I’ll need it much at all unlike the UHD60 where I was making picture adjustments almost all the time and switching between Cinema and HDR – the UHD51A does that automatically). The back lighted keys are not blindingly bright. Some may not like the button batteries though.
• Two HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 inputs instead of the usual one like so many others.
• The built-in Media Player seems cool. I will not be able to access the USB ports easily enough to ever use it and also I have too many other devices already hooked up to projector that can do similar things.
• EZCast Wireless Media Streaming – good to have as an option than not to have at all I guess. I may switch over to using this instead of Alexa when I take the projector down to adjust the mount on it. I haven't used EZCast yet as it requires the USB Wifi Adaptor to be in a specific USB port not used by Alexa.
• Build-in sound – it sounds OK enough and will get you by, great for portability. I’m not going to ever use it but it’s there as an option.
• Box (at least in the USA) contains a USB Wifi Adaptor, Lens Cap and short HDMI cable.
• Slow HDMI syncing STILL – time between a signal to black screen to signal is several long seconds
o Switching between 4K and 3D takes a good long while.
o Switching between sources and toggling between SDR & HDR both take a while.
• Light Border around the active image area from unused pixels. The DMD is comprised of tiny mirrors 2048x1200, only 1920x1080 are used, shifted 4 times to get 3860x2160. That leaves 64 pixels on the left and right of the active image area and 60 pixels on the top and bottom unused and shown around the active image as a light border more or less visible depending on what is being shown on the screen at any given time. The light border is proportional with the active area: as the active image is enlarged, so is the light border’s thickness.
• Black Levels (thus Contrast) – current, home DLP tech’s weakness. With all the praise I mentioned about DLP 4K/price point and the Brightness and Color in the Pros section above, Black Levels still remain not the best. They aren’t bad or horrible but I do feel engineering a low cost way to keeping light from unused mirrors off the screen will be a true revolutionary break-through for DLP in general if that’s even a possible. Here’s to wishful thinking coming true one day (fingers crossed).
• No direct support for 12-bit 4:2:2 at 2160p 60Hz without adding an additional conversion step (the similar JVC LX-UH1 shows it’s possible to do; another of my personal pet peeves/rant).
• No true Game Mode to get lag near or under 30ms.
• UltraDetail processing (now built-in with the Sharpness setting) cannot be totally turned off. Sharpness at 1 appears to be equivalent to UltraDetail 1 or even 2 on the UHD60. Unfortunately, this personal pet peeve/rant for me may be in the minority and never addressed because it appears only in high contrast, near single pixel repeating geometry that puts UltraDetail into over drive (mainly Video Games in certain areas). It forms faint vertical and horizontal moiré bands from the processed sharpness that looks bad particularly in motion that results in stair stepping and shimmering. This could happen in any source material but movies and TV haven’t shown it much if at all so far. It depends on if a high detailed fence, vent, grate, roof, etc. is in a shot I would imagine. I’ll personally just have to set Sharpness to 1 and bite my tongue whenever it appears in 4K games I’m playing – not a deal breaker for me personally just annoying knowing it could not be there with the proper setting available.
• Alexa and EZCast can’t share the same USB Wi-Fi adaptor in 1 USB input.
• No Keystone Correction. This isn’t my personal con but others have said they need it for their space and it would obviously make setup even easier/more flexible. I don’t know how much this would have added to the cost of the projector but it seems a worthy inclusion.
• No Horizontal lens shift (again, the similar JVC LX-UH1 shows it’s possible to do – at what cost?)
• Menus not adjustable, i.e. being able to reposition them, set the time they stay on the screen. This isn’t my personal con with the UHD51A because I haven’t had the reason to stay in menus long like I had to with the UHD60 but someone mentioned it and it wouldn’t have hurt to keep the menu options available.
• Alxea onboarding a little long and involved (not Optoma’s fault) but it was OK if you just follow all of the steps. 1st world problems.
Display: Optoma UHD51A Projector > Elite Screens R135WH1 ezFrame | 7.2.4 Audio: Onkyo TX-RZ920 9.2ch Network A/V Receiver, M-5010 2ch Amplifier; Definitive Technology ProCenter 2000, ProMonitor 1000(x10), SuperCube I & 4000 | Sources: PC, DirecTV, Apple 4K, Fire Stick 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Chromecast & Roku Ultras, Xbox One X, PlayStation 4 Pro & Nintendo Switch | Remote: Harmony Elite | HDMI: 40' Monoprice DynamicView+4x1 Switch
Last edited by Wesley Hester; 05-21-2018 at 02:29 PM.