Users Thread & Review Viewsonic Pro7827HD. - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 145 Old 04-25-2018, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
@chapwillow

Thanks for chiming in on your purchase of the PRO7827HD. You should have made your comments in this thread instead of the PJD5555w thread.

Here is what chapwillow had to say.

“Thanks to the help from Bud16415, I finally got my wife on board for the purchase of the Viewsonic PRO7827HD and used it this weekend. Once showing a kids movie projected to about 25 feet wide on a grey wall in a dimly lit room of an old schoolhouse in town, and once in my living room with a small lamp on at about 60 inches wide and both were phenomenal! What a difference compared to the cheap one we returned to Amazon. Two friends that were at the kids showing were so impressed that they are going to get the Viewsonic too, and a woman hearing me tell the story the next day in town took down the model number as well.

The image is brighter and clearer than the little flat screen we used to use in our living room and almost as good when projected at 9 feet wide in a room with the lights on. Colors were, as Bud suggested. saturated and bright, even in a moderately lit room.

Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experience.”


I forgot to mention that I did pay around $500 on Amazon for a discounted, but NEW projector. There was a Refurbished one available from Viewsonic that was $100-$150 less, but came with a 90 day warranty instead of the full 2 year? 3 year? warranty on the new one. I have read enough stories about even the best projectors having odd problems, to see the value in the longer warranty. Others can make their own decisions.

As a new member I cannot post a link here, but To find the refurb one, go to Viewxonic's website and search for pro7827hd-s. The "S" seems to be their identifier for refurbished models.”
Thank you for getting me in the right place. @bud16415
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post #32 of 145 Old 05-03-2018, 03:15 PM
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Smile Setting up the Pro7827HD

I am amazed with how good a projector you can get for under $500 nowadays. As a retiree and DIYer I have always had a dedicated home theater and considered it to be a great hobby.

I replaced my 4 year old ViewSonic PJD5533w with a new ViewSonic PRO7827HD about a month ago and have been setting it up in my totally dark home theater. The higher resolution is great, and in eco mode it is not that noisy. I was not satisfied with the colors however, even in REC709 mode. Everything was too saturated and the skin tones were either greenish or purplish, not much shadow detail, and the whites blown out. I ran it through my DVDO Edge Green video processor and got the colors much better, but then there were constant HDMI problems so I removed it from the system and used my Yamaha Receiver to switch inputs (Roku Ultra, LG Blueray, 2 home theater PCs, and an Iview tuner).

I decided to see what I could do with just the settings available on the Viewsonic.
Trying to change the ViewSonic settings was like trying to use a Ouija Board, you change one thing and it pulls the settings that you thought were set okay out of whack. Changing the Brilliant Color settings for example, will change the tint slightly between green and purple if you set the color temp to warm. My biggest surprise is using a gamma of 1, but with it any higher I lose a lot of shadow detail.
The settings I use would not work for you unless you have a dark home theater, but they look great in my setting.
I don't have any tools to calibrate with (except for test patterns) so after about 25 hours of playing with the settings I came up with the following:

Paul's settings (removes green bias, lowers saturation, increases detail in dark areas, reduces white blooming):
Color Mode: Movie Rec. 709
Brightness: 49
Contrast: -15
Color Temp: Normal
Overscan: Off

Advanced
Gamma: 1
Brilliant Color: 10

Color Management
R: Hue -10, Saturation 105, Gain 100
G: Hue 10, Sat. 110, Gain 115
B: Hue 26, Sat. 105, Gain 115
C: Hue 35, Sat. 100, Gain 115
M: Hue 0, Sat. 100, Gain 100
Y: Hue -40, Sat. 110, Gain 105

(Darbee Cobalt on HiDef mode at 50%)

I don't know if these settings are useful for anyone else, but now I am very satisfied with the PRO7827HD projector that I only paid $399 for.

Home Theater equipment list:
DIY anamorphic lens made with coated prisms (French prisms as explained in the CIH forum) mounted in enclosure on drawer slide and pulled into position for 2.40 aspect ratio movies.

DVDO Edge Green High-Definition Video Processor and Connectivity Hub (main use for switching HDMI inputs and vertical stretch for use with anamorphic lens, not used with PRO7827HD)

Darbee Cobalt Video Enhancer (mounted just before projector receives HDMI signal)

Yamaha RX-V567 7.1 AV Receiver

Acoustic Research AR-1, 3-way front speaker towers (Left and Right) dual 500 watt Sunfire internal amps, 15" side subwoofers

Polk Audio CS2 Series II center channel speaker two 6.5" drivers, 1-inch dome tweeter

Monoprice 3-way 5 ¼ inch surround and rear speakers (2 on side walls and 2 in rear wall)

LG Blu-ray Player BD550

JVC HR-S3500U SVHS VCR for the old tapes I have not converted to DVD (many have been)

Roku Ultra

Tablo 4 tuner DVR and Tablo 2 tuner DVR with 2 Xtreme Signal HDB8X 8-Bay VHF/UHF HDTV Antennas

4’ x 8’ Do-able white vinyl coated board from Home Depot for screen (104” diagonal at 2.40 ratio) $24.00 at Home Depot
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post #33 of 145 Old 05-04-2018, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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@toomeypj Good to see someone took advantage of the $399 sale price. You made about the same jump I did from a PJD5555w to the Pro7827HD. The Viewsonic line isn’t talked about much but spending 3 years with the 5555 gave me a good feeling about the product.

Everyone’s calibration based on room and screen. I have had great luck on my 110” .5 gain neutral gray screen with the factory settings in Movie Rec. 709.

Thanks for adding your review. Nice to see someone doing CIH with an A-lens on a $400 projector. I’m doing the zoom method by moving the projector on a ceiling mounted slide, and that has been very successful as well.

There is nothing in the price area to keep people from enjoying real quality images with front projection at home any longer.

Bud
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post #34 of 145 Old 05-04-2018, 12:13 PM
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@16415 I can see why you are using the .5 gain screen. That would have helped with my problems because I have a DIY cheapo screen which is probably 1 to 1.2 gain. I might consider putting up a Carl's ALR or ProGray screen material for future improvement.

I did have problems with the Anamorphic lens because the new projector is shorter throw. I had to practically touch the a-lens housing to the new Viewsonic to not have the left side cropped off. It works fine except for a little bit of chromatic aberration on the left side which only shows in movie credits to the far left.

I think the slide idea is great, but do you have to climb up and refocus every time you do 2.4 to 1 aspect ratio? I might consider the slide method but having a ladder handy doesn't appeal to me. No rest for the weary!
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post #35 of 145 Old 05-04-2018, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomeypj View Post
@16415 I can see why you are using the .5 gain screen. That would have helped with my problems because I have a DIY cheapo screen which is probably 1 to 1.2 gain. I might consider putting up a Carl's ALR or ProGray screen material for future improvement.

I did have problems with the Anamorphic lens because the new projector is shorter throw. I had to practically touch the a-lens housing to the new Viewsonic to not have the left side cropped off. It works fine except for a little bit of chromatic aberration on the left side which only shows in movie credits to the far left.

I think the slide idea is great, but do you have to climb up and refocus every time you do 2.4 to 1 aspect ratio? I might consider the slide method but having a ladder handy doesn't appeal to me. No rest for the weary!

I don't own this projector, but I have a suggestion that might be helpful. My 2 projectors both require some calibration to reduce green, and blue. This is easily done, but I thought maybe I'd try to correct some of that with the screen color, so today I purchased some paint that looks a little bit pinkish. It's almost white. I plan to mix it with the other white paint, and hopefully I'll be able to change the calibration settings closer to even. This might be an option for you as well if you like to experiment. Also, keep in mind that the bulb you have is new, and the color may change after a few hundred hours.
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post #36 of 145 Old 05-05-2018, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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@toomeypj
On my slide I made the drop tube from PVC pipe and threaded adapters. Makes adjusting the drop height a simple DIY task. I didn’t glue the threaded adapters to the PVC instead I drilled a .25 hole thru both pieces and ran a .25 carriage bolt thru with a nut. It was easy to take apart re-cut the length and drill another hole or cut a new piece to make it longer when tweaking the drop and slope of the slide. It can later be glued if you have worries about the bolted connection I never did. Once I had it where it needed to be at the top of the drop tube I installed a eye screw and then took a broom handle and installed a eye hook. No ladders or focus involved for CIH and the image always stays on the brightest end of the zoom. I can change the zoom full range that in my case is more than required for CIH+IMAX 1.89 as I sometimes watch older poorer quality TV and movies less than CIH to improve the PQ. It takes about 5 to 10 seconds to get my stick and pull or push the slide to where I want it. I thought about a motor to move it and that would have the cool factor but it most likely does me good to stand up when needed to make the adjustment.

I thought there might be a problem with the A-lens and the shorter throw length on the Pro7827HD my old PJD5555w with the longer throw would have been better as was your 5533. It is good to know it is working for you.

Again no focus or lens shift once you adjust it with moving the projector the focus remains perfect when you change the throw length.

@kbgl

I have in the past played around with calibration at the screen and have found it best for long term to get the screen as close to neutral as I could and then not have to worry with future projectors. As to mixing a neutral gray it is for the most part pretty simple as a white base and lamp black. That mixture does give a slight blue push and can be corrected with a very slight red/ yellow pigment. I didn’t bother with the correction as I like the cooler palette. My screen is neutral at 7500k. The Viewsonic’s have a bunch of presets for using different colored surfaces as a screen. I never messed around much with those settings.
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post #37 of 145 Old 05-05-2018, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
@toomeypj
On my slide I made the drop tube from PVC pipe and threaded adapters. Makes adjusting the drop height a simple DIY task. I didn’t glue the threaded adapters to the PVC instead I drilled a .25 hole thru both pieces and ran a .25 carriage bolt thru with a nut. It was easy to take apart re-cut the length and drill another hole or cut a new piece to make it longer when tweaking the drop and slope of the slide. It can later be glued if you have worries about the bolted connection I never did. Once I had it where it needed to be at the top of the drop tube I installed a eye screw and then took a broom handle and installed a eye hook. No ladders or focus involved for CIH and the image always stays on the brightest end of the zoom. I can change the zoom full range that in my case is more than required for CIH+IMAX 1.89 as I sometimes watch older poorer quality TV and movies less than CIH to improve the PQ. It takes about 5 to 10 seconds to get my stick and pull or push the slide to where I want it. I thought about a motor to move it and that would have the cool factor but it most likely does me good to stand up when needed to make the adjustment.

I thought there might be a problem with the A-lens and the shorter throw length on the Pro7827HD my old PJD5555w with the longer throw would have been better as was your 5533. It is good to know it is working for you.

Again no focus or lens shift once you adjust it with moving the projector the focus remains perfect when you change the throw length.

@kbgl

I have in the past played around with calibration at the screen and have found it best for long term to get the screen as close to neutral as I could and then not have to worry with future projectors. As to mixing a neutral gray it is for the most part pretty simple as a white base and lamp black. That mixture does give a slight blue push and can be corrected with a very slight red/ yellow pigment. I didn’t bother with the correction as I like the cooler palette. My screen is neutral at 7500k. The Viewsonic’s have a bunch of presets for using different colored surfaces as a screen. I never messed around much with those settings.
I agree with trying to keep the screen neutral, only varying the shade of white or gray. I compared my DIY Do-able board screen with the Carl's Place screen material samples and it is a close match to their Blackout Cloth. I might consider Carl's ALR material because the dark gray blacks turn to totally black when taping the sample to my white screen, but I worry about hot spots. I have never tried to create a painted screen because of all the variables and cloth just seems easier. Something for future consideration but not now.

I will not be changing my screen size or color soon because it works well with my CIH setup: valance, remote control curtains, and homemade anamorphic prism.
I don't quite understand why the projector slide works without refocusing, but I will take out the old PJD5533 Viewsonic and try some experiments when I get the time. I replaced the old Viewsonic because of some dust blobs and the outstanding price on the PRO7827HD replacement.

My first projector was an Infocus X1 that I paid $1500 for, and now I am down to $399 and happy with it. I would never spend $2500 - $3000 for a projector because I use it for about 35 hours per week and never get more than a few years out of one before an electronic or color wheel problem.
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post #38 of 145 Old 05-06-2018, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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@toomeypj

You don’t need to get your PJD5533 out to experiment with. All you need is a sheet of printer paper and your new projector set up as it is. Start at the screen with your paper and then move it closer to your projector as the image gets smaller watch the focus.

The slope on my slide is to keep the image centered as most projectors are intended to be mounted at or around the screen top or bottom and as such with a level slide and inverted projector the image will stay high on the screen when zoomed smaller. I have mine adjusted so with the projector inverted the vertical offset is set to the image highest. As I zoom the image stays centered on the screen area. When it is smallest I still have the option of lowering it more if I want to give more of a TV placement to the image. That adjustment is easy to do as the projector is then at its lowest point and I can reach the knob without a step.

I agree for many of us we can be completely happy with DIY screen of some sort and little cost and a projector like this one in the $XXX price point or if you get lucky and get a sale price the $XXX price point.

Our usage is about like yours maybe racking up 40 hours on an average week. It gets used a lot more in the winter than summer. When I bought my PJD5555w it had a 3 year warranty on the projector and 1 year on the lamp the same as the Pro7827HD. It was $XXX and I said at the time it was going to be an intermediate projector for one year and would cost me one dollar a day no risk. As it ended up it was still going strong after 3 years or 33 cents a day. No one could complain about that as an entertainment expense. If this projector hadn’t come along at this price point I would still be watching the 5555. I would even conceder a bare bulb replacement on it still for 60 bucks as it is now my garage/ outdoor projector.

My current screen wall is a stealth painted job and the paint was very simple. I was in a hurry to get something running as we were doing a total home restoration and I just needed to paint the theater room with something. I had 2/3 of a 5 gallon pail of white wall paint and after painting the theater ceiling black I had 2/3 of a gallon of black left over. I mixed by eye what I hoped to be a .5 gain gray with the two and painted the whole room two coats. I then added a quart of clear polyurethane about 4:1 with that paint and gave the screen wall 2 more coats. So I know the only pigment in my mixture is black. It worked well and even though I had thought I might redo it when I had time there is no reason to. I had 4way masking with the 5555 and slowly stopped using it and with the 7827 self masking is very much good enough for us. That makes doing the zoom method of varying the image size very nice and fast.

Bud

Last edited by bud16415; 08-14-2018 at 10:20 AM.
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post #39 of 145 Old 05-07-2018, 07:25 AM
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I just unboxed my new 7827 this morning, and haven't had a chance to turn it on and check the firmware yet, but has anybody found a source for the 1.04 firmware? I'd like to just have it on hand in case I need to update it.
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post #40 of 145 Old 05-07-2018, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I just unboxed my new 7827 this morning, and haven't had a chance to turn it on and check the firmware yet, but has anybody found a source for the 1.04 firmware? I'd like to just have it on hand in case I need to update it.
I called Viewsonic and talked to a tech about it and he told me no, it was something they would do if you sent it in, but there was nothing in it that was of any use based around noise and such. He offered to change my fans with the same thing that’s in it now if I sent it in. I told him there is nothing wrong with my fans they work perfect.

So I’m still a little confused about the whole firmware thing. If you discover something please post it here if you will.

Honestly on eco where we keep the lamp 95% of the time we don’t notice the fans at all any longer.

Once you get up and running add your personal review here.

Bud
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I called Viewsonic and talked to a tech about it and he told me no, it was something they would do if you sent it in, but there was nothing in it that was of any use based around noise and such. He offered to change my fans with the same thing that’s in it now if I sent it in. I told him there is nothing wrong with my fans they work perfect.

So I’m still a little confused about the whole firmware thing. If you discover something please post it here if you will.

Honestly on eco where we keep the lamp 95% of the time we don’t notice the fans at all any longer.

Once you get up and running add your personal review here.
I just heard that there were some (minor?) 24p issues on 1.02 firmware:

http://www.projectorjunkies.com/view...full-review-2/

Quote:
Before we move to the measurements that we got from the PRO7827HD to refer to a problem we encountered. The projector while keying in 1080p24 other internally not played correctly the 24 frames resulting in problematic traffic when viewing 1080p24 material. Upon contact with the Viewsonic problem solved with a firmware upgrade. The projector that we had in our hands wore the firmware 1.02 and had already released 1.04. For the record the new firmware we sent, we installed and the projector played the 24 frames exactly as it should. Finally good well, all good.
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post #42 of 145 Old 05-07-2018, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I just heard that there were some (minor?) 24p issues on 1.02 firmware:

http://www.projectorjunkies.com/view...full-review-2/
I do remember reading that review and reading that statement.

I have the 1.02 firmware and haven’t noticed any problems with anything I have sent to it. I send it a variety of stuff and haven’t seen any problems. About the only thing we don’t do is games.

Keep us posted.

Bud
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post #43 of 145 Old 05-09-2018, 11:53 AM
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Ok, back from my first lunch break with this proj... Initial impressions are quite positive. Obviously, the brightness is much better than my little pico projector LG ph150b (130 lumens!), and provides much greater contrast. I'm just playing some things from my phone through a DisplayLink HDMI adapter right now, and can definitely tell that the source media is not the highest quality. I was pleased to see the enhanced black level setting greatly improved the picture from my phone HDMI. Also working really well with my USB powered 3.5mm -> BT adapter to my headphones.

Only thing I really need for using it here at work is a longer power cord to accommodate better placement!
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post #44 of 145 Old 05-11-2018, 04:40 AM
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One thing I found today... I set up in the break room at lunch today, hooked up the Switch, and had a few people joining me for Mario Kart. Since others were participating, I wasn't using my headphones, and even turning the volume down to 1 was still pretty loud. I'll have to figure something out for that, as I don't want to be disturbing those around us with the sound!
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One thing I found today... I set up in the break room at lunch today, hooked up the Switch, and had a few people joining me for Mario Kart. Since others were participating, I wasn't using my headphones, and even turning the volume down to 1 was still pretty loud. I'll have to figure something out for that, as I don't want to be disturbing those around us with the sound!
There is a problem most projectors don’t have. I’m sure the people that designed it figured a projector equals large room with lots of viewers. Best solution there is a couple of computer speakers plugged into the headphone jack you are using. Should be able to turn them down very low.

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There is a problem most projectors don’t have. I’m sure the people that designed it figured a projector equals large room with lots of viewers. Best solution there is a couple of computer speakers plugged into the headphone jack you are using. Should be able to turn them down very low.
Yeah, maybe I will get a small BT speaker to pair with my 3.5mm->BT transmitter.
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post #47 of 145 Old 06-06-2018, 09:48 PM
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I thought I'd move this conversation to your Viewsonic Thread opposed to the "Super confused/overwhelmed...." Thread someone posted.

6/5/18, I asked this to Bud:

Quote:
I thought I was set on the BenQ HT 2050a due to the ceiling placement limitation I have. Max distance from Lens to screen is a little over 10 feet. I currently have a Panasonic AE-500U 720p from 13/14 years ago. I have it as far back as I can get it and max out at 100". I really want 1080p (not ready for 4K yet, especially given their throw ranges) and increase the size of my screen from 100" to 110 or 120".

I came across another post somewhere about the Viewsonic Pro 7827 where they claim 100% of Rec709, superb contrast and 99% of their claimed brightness. Now I'm torn as I thought I was going with the BenQ 2050a. They both have a 3 year warranty. The BenQ 2050a is $250 more than the Viewsonic and the replacement lamps are more. The savings could buy a SilverTicket Screen (I'm using a DIY BlackoutCloth Screen currently).

Do you or anyone have any opinions on the Viewsonic Pro 7827 vs BenQ 2050a? I have a dedicated Theater room. Black front wall, black ceiling, Dark Gray side walls and gray carpet. There is no ambient light. Only light I have when watching movies is from the PJ itself. I also read some reviews that said the Viewsonic fan is quite loud.
6/6/18, Bud responded with this:

Quote:
The downside between the two as best I know are a couple things. First is if you are seriously into games the lag of the Viewsonic is greater than the BenQ. Casual gaming I’m told it isn’t an issue. I don’t play games so it isn’t a issue in my case. The other is fan noise level. In eco mode the fan is slightly louder in the Viewsonic than the Benq. We project a 110” image and sit directly below the projector it is about 3’ above and although you can hear it when the sound of the movie is off it is not at all disturbing to us. To be honest I think you would hear the BenQ in that situation as well or almost any projector unless it is enclosed in a hush box. With audio from our sound system playing the projector noise is lost in the mix. It is like how you might not hear your furnace running when it comes on. On the brightest mode the fan jumps up in speed and gets a little louder yet and for me would become slightly annoying in a very quiet movie. With a 110” screen the only times I run in bright setting is for watching sports or something with a bunch of people and the task lighting turned up. In that case the audio is turned up and with people talking no one notices the fan noise they are too interested in the beautiful vivid image.

For me the 250 savings roughly 33% was more than worth it and the great experience I had with my previous Viewsonic projector it was WXGA or 720p. I upgraded for 1080p and also the RGBRGB color wheel.

Here is a page I started about it with some links to reviews.

Users Thread & Review Viewsonic Pro7827HD.
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To keep going....

I do not play games, so the input lag is of little relevance to me. I do have a completely darkened room and plan to purchase a Silver Ticket White Screen for 110' or so. I read many things saying for DLP, it's best to go with a White screen, but not sure. Here are some questions, that if you have the time to provide any answers, would be great.

1- For a completely Dark Dedicated Home Theater Room, would you recommend a White or Gray Screen for the Viewsonic?
2- I'm thinking of purchasing a UHD Player and playing 4K movies on it with HDR off to take advantage of Dolby Atmos. What are you using for your sources? I read some reviews on Amazon, and some are saying depending on the HDCP of your source, the Viewsonic may not accept it. So now questioning whether I can hook up a UHD Player to this one.
3- As with #2 , are there any issues with Roku, Apple TV or any other sources from connecting to the Viewsonic due to the type of HDCP used?
4- Does anyone know if I can purchase from Amazon Prime, try out this PJ, and if the Fan is too loud for my liking, send it back for a refund? I know their electronic return policy is 30 days on unopened boxes, or if device doesn't operate correctly or damaged. I don't want to be dishonest, but also don't know if I can live with a loud fan in my room. I have short ceilings at 7.5'. I will be sitting directly under the PJ. My 13 year old Panasonic is barely noticeable. I should get my SPL meter and measure the dB to see what it really is for a reference point.
5- I watched a Youtube video on the Viewsonic and commented and the user stated that he did not feel I'd see much of a difference, if any difference in Picture Quality between the BenQ 2050A and this Viewsonic. Thoughts?
6- You seem to have many years of experience with FP. I've only owned one, and it's 13 years old. My concerns may not be valid. It's a Panasonic AE-500U (or PT 500U....something 500U). It's 720p and Lumens were listed at 750 by Panny, and measured at something like 150 by Projector Central after user calibrated. The contrast is around 1,000:1. But, it was around a $2K projector that I bought on sale for $1,500 in 2005. The Viewsonic and BenQ both kill the Panny on paper. I am just concerned that maybe the Panny was such better "Quality" that even these newer 1080p with much better specs won't perform as well as a much higher cost PJ back then. Any Thoughts?
7- I've read about so many PJs of late, I'm not sure, but think it was the Viewsonic I saw had no Lens Cover. Won't this cause potential issues with more dust entering the lens and causing dust blobs on the screen?

I know that's a lot of questions, and any feedback at all would be appreciated. I have a problem making decisions, my wife lets me know that all the time...LOL. I finally felt good with the BenQ 2050A until I started reading the poor Brightness Uniformity. As far as I know, that may not be noticeable watching movies which is what I'll be doing 100% of the time. Now I come across this Viewsonic and how much cheaper it is and am rethinking everything
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I thought I'd move this conversation to your Viewsonic Thread opposed to the "Super confused/overwhelmed...." Thread someone posted.

6/5/18, I asked this to Bud:



6/6/18, Bud responded with this:



To keep going....

I do not play games, so the input lag is of little relevance to me. I do have a completely darkened room and plan to purchase a Silver Ticket White Screen for 110' or so. I read many things saying for DLP, it's best to go with a White screen, but not sure. Here are some questions, that if you have the time to provide any answers, would be great.

1- For a completely Dark Dedicated Home Theater Room, would you recommend a White or Gray Screen for the Viewsonic?
2- I'm thinking of purchasing a UHD Player and playing 4K movies on it with HDR off to take advantage of Dolby Atmos. What are you using for your sources? I read some reviews on Amazon, and some are saying depending on the HDCP of your source, the Viewsonic may not accept it. So now questioning whether I can hook up a UHD Player to this one.
3- As with #2 , are there any issues with Roku, Apple TV or any other sources from connecting to the Viewsonic due to the type of HDCP used?
4- Does anyone know if I can purchase from Amazon Prime, try out this PJ, and if the Fan is too loud for my liking, send it back for a refund? I know their electronic return policy is 30 days on unopened boxes, or if device doesn't operate correctly or damaged. I don't want to be dishonest, but also don't know if I can live with a loud fan in my room. I have short ceilings at 7.5'. I will be sitting directly under the PJ. My 13 year old Panasonic is barely noticeable. I should get my SPL meter and measure the dB to see what it really is for a reference point.
5- I watched a Youtube video on the Viewsonic and commented and the user stated that he did not feel I'd see much of a difference, if any difference in Picture Quality between the BenQ 2050A and this Viewsonic. Thoughts?
6- You seem to have many years of experience with FP. I've only owned one, and it's 13 years old. My concerns may not be valid. It's a Panasonic AE-500U (or PT 500U....something 500U). It's 720p and Lumens were listed at 750 by Panny, and measured at something like 150 by Projector Central after user calibrated. The contrast is around 1,000:1. But, it was around a $2K projector that I bought on sale for $1,500 in 2005. The Viewsonic and BenQ both kill the Panny on paper. I am just concerned that maybe the Panny was such better "Quality" that even these newer 1080p with much better specs won't perform as well as a much higher cost PJ back then. Any Thoughts?
7- I've read about so many PJs of late, I'm not sure, but think it was the Viewsonic I saw had no Lens Cover. Won't this cause potential issues with more dust entering the lens and causing dust blobs on the screen?

I know that's a lot of questions, and any feedback at all would be appreciated. I have a problem making decisions, my wife lets me know that all the time...LOL. I finally felt good with the BenQ 2050A until I started reading the poor Brightness Uniformity. As far as I know, that may not be noticeable watching movies which is what I'll be doing 100% of the time. Now I come across this Viewsonic and how much cheaper it is and am rethinking everything
My room sounds a lot like yours. Lights out and sealed 100% from outside light coming in. my ceiling is black and walls a 50% neutral gray. My max screen size is 110” and I have plenty of lumens in eco mode to produce a nice bright image still on a ~.5 gain simple neutral gray DIY painted wall as a screen.

The 110” screen is 36 sq ft of screen area in movie Rec 709 the projector puts out 685 lumens so 685/36 = 19 foot lamberts. Accounting for lamp dimming it is reasonable to expect 15 foot lamberts on a white screen.

The Dynamic and Standard mode bumps the brightness to almost double and I don’t find by eye all that much problem in using those modes. I run in Standard around 934 lumens and get a 26 FL result that is halved do to my gray screen resulting in 13 FL that produces a great picture IMO. When I want some ambient light in the room I can switch to a brighter mode and get about 1500 lumens.

In your case a white 1.0 or even a .7/.8 gray would be great easy to light up.

I have the ability to zoom by moving the projector. So I always keep the zoom setting widest with the most brightness. When I want to have ambient I often make the image smaller than 110” and get a boast in unit brightness “FL’s”

I feed my projector from a Sony BD player over HDMI 1 the player also acts as a smart TV and we do Amazon Prime, Netflix and about 3 other streaming media sites that way. We do OTA TV with a $26 1080 tuner box into HDMI 2 and I have a HTPC laptop tied into Comp. input, from that I have a couple dozen streaming sites I use and even stream Spectrum cable TV that way. I have watched a lot of Youtube 4k feeds with the HTPC method as well as the smart TV method and they look amazing. I know there is scaling going on and not sure what is changing what but they look great. I run my audio all separate from the video as I use a older receiver outputting 5.2 and it doesn’t have HDMI pass thru.

There is no problem without a lens cover most people never climb up to use them if they have one. A little dusting from time to time is no big deal when needed.

I know many people test run a projector and return them to Amazon. I have never done it so I don’t know the policy. Maybe others will comment on that.

Personally I don’t know how to describe the sound level in comparison to the audio level we listen at. I know people that play their TV very low with kids sleeping and stuff. We normally play our stuff like it was at a movie theater. Turning it down for regular TV stuff. I also have headphones for all the seats and I sometime use them when I don’t want to disturb others.

Buying any projector for most people is a leap of faith as there isn’t too many places to try one out. If you ever head north on I79 I would be happy to give you a demo.

Bud
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My room sounds a lot like yours. Lights out and sealed 100% from outside light coming in. my ceiling is black and walls a 50% neutral gray. My max screen size is 110” and I have plenty of lumens in eco mode to produce a nice bright image still on a ~.5 gain simple neutral gray DIY painted wall as a screen.

The 110” screen is 36 sq ft of screen area in movie Rec 709 the projector puts out 685 lumens so 685/36 = 19 foot lamberts. Accounting for lamp dimming it is reasonable to expect 15 foot lamberts on a white screen.

The Dynamic and Standard mode bumps the brightness to almost double and I don’t find by eye all that much problem in using those modes. I run in Standard around 934 lumens and get a 26 FL result that is halved do to my gray screen resulting in 13 FL that produces a great picture IMO. When I want some ambient light in the room I can switch to a brighter mode and get about 1500 lumens.

In your case a white 1.0 or even a .7/.8 gray would be great easy to light up.

I have the ability to zoom by moving the projector. So I always keep the zoom setting widest with the most brightness. When I want to have ambient I often make the image smaller than 110” and get a boast in unit brightness “FL’s”

I feed my projector from a Sony BD player over HDMI 1 the player also acts as a smart TV and we do Amazon Prime, Netflix and about 3 other streaming media sites that way. We do OTA TV with a $26 1080 tuner box into HDMI 2 and I have a HTPC laptop tied into Comp. input, from that I have a couple dozen streaming sites I use and even stream Spectrum cable TV that way. I have watched a lot of Youtube 4k feeds with the HTPC method as well as the smart TV method and they look amazing. I know there is scaling going on and not sure what is changing what but they look great. I run my audio all separate from the video as I use a older receiver outputting 5.2 and it doesn’t have HDMI pass thru.

There is no problem without a lens cover most people never climb up to use them if they have one. A little dusting from time to time is no big deal when needed.

I know many people test run a projector and return them to Amazon. I have never done it so I don’t know the policy. Maybe others will comment on that.

Personally I don’t know how to describe the sound level in comparison to the audio level we listen at. I know people that play their TV very low with kids sleeping and stuff. We normally play our stuff like it was at a movie theater. Turning it down for regular TV stuff. I also have headphones for all the seats and I sometime use them when I don’t want to disturb others.

Buying any projector for most people is a leap of faith as there isn’t too many places to try one out. If you ever head north on I79 I would be happy to give you a demo.
Thanks Bud, that's a lot of good info. You are right about a leap of faith with projectors. Not only would you like to compare a couple, but would be nice to compare with a White vs Grey Screen as well. For 110" screen, how high above the top of the screen should the center of the lens be? My ceiling is low. I have two rows of seating, but my Panasonic mounts "under" the top of the screen when hanging from the ceiling. So may have to move the screen down, which means I will need to build up my Riser so the second row can see over the front and still see bottom of the screen. However, that is not due to Viewsonic, but any new PJ as it appears most would mount above the top of the screen.

I also came across the Viewsonic PJD7828HDL 3200 Lumens. Appears it doesn't have vertical lens shift. Other than no Lens Shift and more lumens, is it basically the same as the 7827?
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If you go to the Viewsonic site at the bottom of their page for each projector is a link to the manual. Page 13 will show you the drop heights and offsets for the Pro 7827 HD here is the link.

http://www.viewsonicglobal.com/publi...glish.pdf?pass

As to screen choice one of the reasons I like a DIY painted wall whenever possible is it allows for experimenting with sizes and shades for little money. I like to start with flat white primer that is quite similar to a 1.0 white screen. you can then tint the same paint with lamp black pigment or mix something like your black ceiling paint with the white primer to try different shades of gray. You can like the results and stay with the wall as I have or you can learn from doing it and buy the screen that suits your needs best. If you can’t do that then requesting samples to test is the next best way.

My first theater had 2 rows of seating and I had to adjust the riser height for the image placement. I think we had 12 seats in there and 99% of the time used 4 or less. In this house I had learned a lot more about visual immersion and how I liked to adjust it along with image placement so I went to a single row of 5 seats. For me having a couple seats slightly off axis wasn’t as bad as loss of immersion in the second row. And the all in the same row seemed more a social way to sit. It is all personal preference a family with kids a long couch where you can squeeze in more people might work better over a row of theater seats. I have never spent a lot of money on seating and just used what we had. I am now thinking about theater seats though.

The PJD7828HDL was on my short list of projectors as it is quite similar to my last projector the Viewsonic PJD5555W it is pretty much the little 720p WXGA version of the PJD7828HDL. They both have RGBCYW color wheels. They both use the CYW segments conservatively in their better modes and have the white in reserve to blast out some lumens for more business applications. I have a thread on the 5555 and also a thread I started to investigate the merits of non RGBRGB color wheels in crossover projectors as well as HT projectors. The PJD7828 is rated at 3200 lumens but the sum of the lumens the RGB segment can produce is only 770. There are benefits from the CYW segments in color production even maybe helping to make some of the hard to produce colors using only RGB. But in my opinion this projector in HT usage will be able to do around 1200 lumens max before you get into loosing color accuracy in favor of brightness. In the end it is somewhat a wash.

Three years ago when I bought the 5555 I wanted a budget projector and the 5555 I got new with a 3 year projector 1 year lamp replacement plan for $365. At that time the RGBRGB 1080’s were close to $1000. I also wanted a RGBCYW projector to evaluate that technology for myself. It was a great projector and at 110” image worked fine as would the 7828 IMO. I got the 5555 as a stop gap projector allowing just what happened the 1080 RGBRGB to drop in price.

IMO I’m giving the edge to RGBRGB over RGBCYW as these projectors are designed. I still feel the non RGB colors could have a place in color making and the trend is smaller segments of the non RGB’s. The manufactures are driven by wanting to post that 3000 lumen plus number though. It is a misleading number but it sells projectors.

Bud
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post #51 of 145 Old 06-08-2018, 12:57 PM
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@tonybradley

If you go to the Viewsonic site at the bottom of their page for each projector is a link to the manual. Page 13 will show you the drop heights and offsets for the Pro 7827 HD here is the link.

http://www.viewsonicglobal.com/publi...glish.pdf?pass

As to screen choice one of the reasons I like a DIY painted wall whenever possible is it allows for experimenting with sizes and shades for little money. I like to start with flat white primer that is quite similar to a 1.0 white screen. you can then tint the same paint with lamp black pigment or mix something like your black ceiling paint with the white primer to try different shades of gray. You can like the results and stay with the wall as I have or you can learn from doing it and buy the screen that suits your needs best. If you can’t do that then requesting samples to test is the next best way.

My first theater had 2 rows of seating and I had to adjust the riser height for the image placement. I think we had 12 seats in there and 99% of the time used 4 or less. In this house I had learned a lot more about visual immersion and how I liked to adjust it along with image placement so I went to a single row of 5 seats. For me having a couple seats slightly off axis wasn’t as bad as loss of immersion in the second row. And the all in the same row seemed more a social way to sit. It is all personal preference a family with kids a long couch where you can squeeze in more people might work better over a row of theater seats. I have never spent a lot of money on seating and just used what we had. I am now thinking about theater seats though.

The PJD7828HDL was on my short list of projectors as it is quite similar to my last projector the Viewsonic PJD5555W it is pretty much the little 720p WXGA version of the PJD7828HDL. They both have RGBCYW color wheels. They both use the CYW segments conservatively in their better modes and have the white in reserve to blast out some lumens for more business applications. I have a thread on the 5555 and also a thread I started to investigate the merits of non RGBRGB color wheels in crossover projectors as well as HT projectors. The PJD7828 is rated at 3200 lumens but the sum of the lumens the RGB segment can produce is only 770. There are benefits from the CYW segments in color production even maybe helping to make some of the hard to produce colors using only RGB. But in my opinion this projector in HT usage will be able to do around 1200 lumens max before you get into loosing color accuracy in favor of brightness. In the end it is somewhat a wash.

Three years ago when I bought the 5555 I wanted a budget projector and the 5555 I got new with a 3 year projector 1 year lamp replacement plan for $365. At that time the RGBRGB 1080’s were close to $1000. I also wanted a RGBCYW projector to evaluate that technology for myself. It was a great projector and at 110” image worked fine as would the 7828 IMO. I got the 5555 as a stop gap projector allowing just what happened the 1080 RGBRGB to drop in price.

IMO I’m giving the edge to RGBRGB over RGBCYW as these projectors are designed. I still feel the non RGB colors could have a place in color making and the trend is smaller segments of the non RGB’s. The manufactures are driven by wanting to post that 3000 lumen plus number though. It is a misleading number but it sells projectors.
Thanks Bud. If I go with a 120" screen (may go with 110"), the offset looks good. My current Panasonic has a DIY mount using Plexiglass with screws and springs to adjust height a bit and level, and uses a flange and pipe where pipe goes through ceiling tile and mounts to another flange attached to wood between the joists. I need to find a Mount with extension pole. Seems like most I see online, the extension is squared and I'd much rather have a cylindrical tube like I have now to go through the tile up to the joists.

From everything you've said, and from other sites I've read, it appears the Picture Quality between the Viewsonic 7827 and BenQ 2050a are pretty close.....and not comparing them side by side would be indistinguishable. BenQ has a better reputation (yet VS has the same 3 year warranty) and has a quieter fan. Looks like I need to determine if I want to spend $250 more for a quieter fan and better reputation. I haven't read anything to say to me that the BenQ picture Quality is superior for a 110" - 120" Screen in a dark dedicated room with no windows. If so, I think I'd go $250 more for the BenQ 2050A. So in reality, I think it's boiling down to the fan noise. My current Panasonic is very quiet to me, yet others have said how it distracts them when watching movies. I guess once you get used to it..... I'll try to measure the dB of my fan on low tonight or tomorrow and see what it is. What is the Viewsonic? 36dB? Is that low or high power?
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Thanks Bud. If I go with a 120" screen (may go with 110"), the offset looks good. My current Panasonic has a DIY mount using Plexiglass with screws and springs to adjust height a bit and level, and uses a flange and pipe where pipe goes through ceiling tile and mounts to another flange attached to wood between the joists. I need to find a Mount with extension pole. Seems like most I see online, the extension is squared and I'd much rather have a cylindrical tube like I have now to go through the tile up to the joists.

From everything you've said, and from other sites I've read, it appears the Picture Quality between the Viewsonic 7827 and BenQ 2050a are pretty close.....and not comparing them side by side would be indistinguishable. BenQ has a better reputation (yet VS has the same 3 year warranty) and has a quieter fan. Looks like I need to determine if I want to spend $250 more for a quieter fan and better reputation. I haven't read anything to say to me that the BenQ picture Quality is superior for a 110" - 120" Screen in a dark dedicated room with no windows. If so, I think I'd go $250 more for the BenQ 2050A. So in reality, I think it's boiling down to the fan noise. My current Panasonic is very quiet to me, yet others have said how it distracts them when watching movies. I guess once you get used to it..... I'll try to measure the dB of my fan on low tonight or tomorrow and see what it is. What is the Viewsonic? 36dB? Is that low or high power?

Your Panasonic was measured by projector central at 27 dB. They measured the Pro7827HD at 31 in eco mode where you will be running. The BenQ HT2050A they measured at 27dB.

If you do some searches on dB levels you will see comparative noise levels. Breathing is around 10dB barely audible, whisper 30dB is considered very quiet, a library is around 40 dB and considered quiet.

Of course it then depends on projector placement and how far you are from the projector. it also depends on the acoustics of your room and how they attenuate sound, and lastly how good your hearing is. I spent 43 year in an industrial setting where they build and test locomotives. And at least 50 years around lawn mowers and power woodworking equipment. Most of those years year protection was unheard of. So I’m not a good person to judge annoying background sound levels. With nothing playing I can hear the projector I can also tune it out. With moderate audio playing any projector sound is gone. When the movie goes to mute as a kid I remember hearing the ticking of the film projector. It might be kind of the same thing.

As to Viewsonic’s quality compared to BenQ I would have to disagree. I personally would put them on par with each other. For whatever reason on the forum BenQ seems to have a greater following. Pricing kept this projector out of the running for about 3 years. Then out of the blue as interest in 1080 RGBRGB projectors was going down they decided to make it a budget projector. I don’t see their quality as being lower but their market strategy sure is.

I used PVC for my drop tube. You can buy glue on thread ends for regular PVC. I used .25 bolts thru the PVC pipe and threaded adapter instead of glue, by drilling a hole. This method was easy to trim the pipe and adjust the length. I use a Chief mount to get the swivel action and then a DIY aluminum plate to transfer the hole pattern. Been using the same plate for years just drilling new holes as needed. Your Plexiglas would do the same.

This thread shows my mount setup.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...on-method.html


You can look at the $250 in lots of ways and to some it is a lot of money and others hardly nothing. It is 1/3 the price though anyway you look at it. I guess I’m the type of person that likes to try and get the most for the least. I get great pleasure knowing I have a nice theater that impresses and I would guess I have less than a thousand bucks tied up in the whole thing. I have to flip a few more switches and do a manual zoom to change my presentation but I have all the function I need. We have friends that have $10,000 tied up in big flat panel TV and audio and they like to come over here to watch movies. Maybe it’s the drinks and popcorn.

Bud
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Your Panasonic was measured by projector central at 27 dB. They measured the Pro7827HD at 31 in eco mode where you will be running. The BenQ HT2050A they measured at 27dB.

If you do some searches on dB levels you will see comparative noise levels. Breathing is around 10dB barely audible, whisper 30dB is considered very quiet, a library is around 40 dB and considered quiet.

Of course it then depends on projector placement and how far you are from the projector. it also depends on the acoustics of your room and how they attenuate sound, and lastly how good your hearing is. I spent 43 year in an industrial setting where they build and test locomotives. And at least 50 years around lawn mowers and power woodworking equipment. Most of those years year protection was unheard of. So I’m not a good person to judge annoying background sound levels. With nothing playing I can hear the projector I can also tune it out. With moderate audio playing any projector sound is gone. When the movie goes to mute as a kid I remember hearing the ticking of the film projector. It might be kind of the same thing.

As to Viewsonic’s quality compared to BenQ I would have to disagree. I personally would put them on par with each other. For whatever reason on the forum BenQ seems to have a greater following. Pricing kept this projector out of the running for about 3 years. Then out of the blue as interest in 1080 RGBRGB projectors was going down they decided to make it a budget projector. I don’t see their quality as being lower but their market strategy sure is.

I used PVC for my drop tube. You can buy glue on thread ends for regular PVC. I used .25 bolts thru the PVC pipe and threaded adapter instead of glue, by drilling a hole. This method was easy to trim the pipe and adjust the length. I use a Chief mount to get the swivel action and then a DIY aluminum plate to transfer the hole pattern. Been using the same plate for years just drilling new holes as needed. Your Plexiglas would do the same.

This thread shows my mount setup.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...on-method.html


You can look at the $250 in lots of ways and to some it is a lot of money and others hardly nothing. It is 1/3 the price though anyway you look at it. I guess I’m the type of person that likes to try and get the most for the least. I get great pleasure knowing I have a nice theater that impresses and I would guess I have less than a thousand bucks tied up in the whole thing. I have to flip a few more switches and do a manual zoom to change my presentation but I have all the function I need. We have friends that have $10,000 tied up in big flat panel TV and audio and they like to come over here to watch movies. Maybe it’s the drinks and popcorn.
How's the video processing on this unit? Doing some more reading of reviews and I've seen that as a con. Fly by scenes, you see jitter (maybe wrong word) in scenery. I watched a youtube review where I saw a little bit of this, but wasn't sure if it was due to the camera. The reviewer didn't mention it as a problem though.
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How's the video processing on this unit? Doing some more reading of reviews and I've seen that as a con. Fly by scenes, you see jitter (maybe wrong word) in scenery. I watched a youtube review where I saw a little bit of this, but wasn't sure if it was due to the camera. The reviewer didn't mention it as a problem though.
As a casual viewer, and we do watch a lot of action stuff I don’t see any Jitter or Judder caused by the projector.

Some content seems to have it built right into the content due to how it was processed from the original source.

If there is some it isn’t anything my eyes pick up and I haven’t had anyone mention it except when it is built into the content and then I see it even when watching on my laptop.

It converts and scales things better than I would think it could like watching DVD upscaled. Of course a 1080p source is going to look best. Streaming stuff as 720p looks great also.

Bud
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As a casual viewer, and we do watch a lot of action stuff I don’t see any Jitter or Judder caused by the projector.

Some content seems to have it built right into the content due to how it was processed from the original source.

If there is some it isn’t anything my eyes pick up and I haven’t had anyone mention it except when it is built into the content and then I see it even when watching on my laptop.

It converts and scales things better than I would think it could like watching DVD upscaled. Of course a 1080p source is going to look best. Streaming stuff as 720p looks great also.
Sorry for the delay in thanking you for this response Bud. I've taken off a few days from my job to get some much needed work done around the house. I have finally settled on getting the Viewsonic and plan on buying it tomorrow. My wife was logical and told me that at some point, I'll want a 4K PJ when they make one with a shorter throw than they have now. So, why spend more than $499 for a PJ especially one rated so well. I agreed and made the choice. The next thing will be to determine which ceiling mount I'll need and screen. I plan on a Silver Ticket, but still unclear if the gray screen or white screen will be best. I think you said you use a gray screen? I've used a 100" DIY Blackout Cloth Screen, and Plan on going 110" or 120" with the Viewsonic.

What type of HDMI cable do you use, and how long? I ordered a 25' cable from Amazon. I used to order all my cables from Monoprice, but went with an Amazon Basics High Speed Cable. I don't plan on running it above my drop ceiling though until I get the PJ and test it out.
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post #56 of 145 Old 06-19-2018, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
As a casual viewer, and we do watch a lot of action stuff I don’t see any Jitter or Judder caused by the projector.

Some content seems to have it built right into the content due to how it was processed from the original source.

If there is some it isn’t anything my eyes pick up and I haven’t had anyone mention it except when it is built into the content and then I see it even when watching on my laptop.

It converts and scales things better than I would think it could like watching DVD upscaled. Of course a 1080p source is going to look best. Streaming stuff as 720p looks great also.
There's no such thing as "built into content judder" or "processed from the original source". You will see judder on your laptop because it probably has a refresh rate of 60hz and doing a pull down or your software player is just playing at 24fps and on LCD display it's particularly visible.
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post #57 of 145 Old 06-19-2018, 05:28 AM - Thread Starter
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@tonybradley

I have two HDMI cables 25’ running to the projector. They are Mediabridge brand I bought off Amazon. One is from my Sony BD player we use for BD and also its smart TV function for streaming. The other runs from our OTA 1080 Tuner a Homeworx box. HDMI 1 & HDMI 2 selectable from the remote. We also have a 25’ VGA component in cable running from my laptop to the projector. I run it normally set it up so the projector is monitor 2 and use it like I have dual monitors. I have my background set to 0,0,0 black and nothing on monitor 2 in the way of icons. I use VLC media player with a skin for it I downloaded called Dark Voodoo. It has no frame around it and the controls disappear with no mouse movement leaving nothing on the screen except the image. I can go full screen or size and move the image to suit the content and it is all self masked with the 0,0,0 black background. Other stuff I just view in the Chrome Browser or click on full screen. The audio for this method is just handled as stereo. There is duplication in how we can watch stuff and family uses the first two methods for simplicity. I use the HTPC method using the laptop as a smart TV plus as I can surf the web on the laptop and enjoy media on the projector at the same time. Family photos and movies are simple with HTPC and I watch a great deal of music clips over the internet and it is much smoother jumping around and searching on a computer than a smart TV and remote control method.

Oh the reason I have separate HDMI’s is my old receiver doesn’t have HDMI. It is a wonderful old receiver and I use both digital audio inputs. It requires an ABC manual switch is all to match the audio to the source. Pretty simple work around and saved me buying an expensive receiver at this time.

@Nuieve

You are right I don’t know where it is coming from but I can watch 100 different streaming feeds with high speed action in the image and not see any judder and then one will come along where I will see it. When I see it, it is apparent on both my LCD TV, my laptop and both of my projectors. So you see how I could contend it is in the media or at least comes with how the media is being processed.

In answering the question as one casual viewer to another I would say it is very rare and doesn’t ever happen with BD media or quality streaming media from Netflix or Amazon it is rare but I have seen issues with stuff like streaming YouTube video I see it with certain content.

IMO it is not enough of a problem to seek out a different projector that would correct the problem.

Bud
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post #58 of 145 Old 06-22-2018, 12:48 AM
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This projector says it can use 3D glasses with DLP link but I did not see any 3D sync port at the back of the unit. Please enlighten me how does it sync to the glasses.

I wonder if an Optoma 3D glasses will work on this. Got a dead Optoma HD33 and looking at getting a 143X for replacement. But now I'm swayed by this unit after reading reviews.
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post #59 of 145 Old 06-22-2018, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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This projector says it can use 3D glasses with DLP link but I did not see any 3D sync port at the back of the unit. Please enlighten me how does it sync to the glasses.

I wonder if an Optoma 3D glasses will work on this. Got a dead Optoma HD33 and looking at getting a 143X for replacement. But now I'm swayed by this unit after reading reviews.
Here are the glasses I bought and they do indeed work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My understanding is there is a pulse in the image that the glasses synchronize with. The glasses have a button to turn on and then tapping it again will reverse the eye sync. It is apparent instantly when the two eyes are synced correctly.
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post #60 of 145 Old 06-26-2018, 09:16 PM
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@tonybradley

I have two HDMI cables 25’ running to the projector. They are Mediabridge brand I bought off Amazon. One is from my Sony BD player we use for BD and also its smart TV function for streaming. The other runs from our OTA 1080 Tuner a Homeworx box. HDMI 1 & HDMI 2 selectable from the remote. We also have a 25’ VGA component in cable running from my laptop to the projector. I run it normally set it up so the projector is monitor 2 and use it like I have dual monitors. I have my background set to 0,0,0 black and nothing on monitor 2 in the way of icons. I use VLC media player with a skin for it I downloaded called Dark Voodoo. It has no frame around it and the controls disappear with no mouse movement leaving nothing on the screen except the image. I can go full screen or size and move the image to suit the content and it is all self masked with the 0,0,0 black background. Other stuff I just view in the Chrome Browser or click on full screen. The audio for this method is just handled as stereo. There is duplication in how we can watch stuff and family uses the first two methods for simplicity. I use the HTPC method using the laptop as a smart TV plus as I can surf the web on the laptop and enjoy media on the projector at the same time. Family photos and movies are simple with HTPC and I watch a great deal of music clips over the internet and it is much smoother jumping around and searching on a computer than a smart TV and remote control method.

Oh the reason I have separate HDMI’s is my old receiver doesn’t have HDMI. It is a wonderful old receiver and I use both digital audio inputs. It requires an ABC manual switch is all to match the audio to the source. Pretty simple work around and saved me buying an expensive receiver at this time.

@Nuieve

You are right I don’t know where it is coming from but I can watch 100 different streaming feeds with high speed action in the image and not see any judder and then one will come along where I will see it. When I see it, it is apparent on both my LCD TV, my laptop and both of my projectors. So you see how I could contend it is in the media or at least comes with how the media is being processed.

In answering the question as one casual viewer to another I would say it is very rare and doesn’t ever happen with BD media or quality streaming media from Netflix or Amazon it is rare but I have seen issues with stuff like streaming YouTube video I see it with certain content.

IMO it is not enough of a problem to seek out a different projector that would correct the problem.
I received my 7827 a few days ago and finally got a chance to at least turn it on to see what it looked like. I set it to Eco and Movie Rec 709. I put in Captain America Civil War. I immediately noticed much better resolution and color than my 14 year old 720p Panasonic. However, I could tell the Video wasn't as smooth as my Panasonic (was much more expensive, but that was 14 years ago). However, I'll reserve my judgement until I get my Receiver hooked up and sit in my normal spot and watch a little more. It could have just been that scene as it's a choppy scene to begin with (the fighting scene between the Avengers when Spidey shows up). The fan is definitely much louder than my Panasonic. With that said, I had it sitting in one of my chairs while I was in the floor looking through some literature, so not a fair comparison. I plan on bringing in a tall step ladder and set the PJ on it upside down to mimic hanging from the ceiling to listen to the fan noise from my seating position.

Did you run something like Digital Video Essentials or another Calibration Disc to fine tune the Movie Rec 709 mode, or did you do it by eye? A friend of mine let me use his Calibration Disc years ago, but can't recall the one it was. It wasn't DVE, as I tried it and didn't care for it at all. His was geared more to the actual calibration and not an educational lesson from DVE, but it was much more expensive. Any Rate, even if I don't find a calibration disc, I think I"d be happy with it out of the box in Movie mode as I though Civil War looked great.
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