How to determine which projector is best in an ambient room setting. - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
The 3700 @ 15lbs is just to heavy after trying a few ways to support it in my area. How does it compare to the Epson 2100 or 2150 and even the ViewSonic PJD7828HDL. Thewirecutter.com rates the 2100 highly, but after reading some other reviews the 2150 seems like the way to go with higher lumens . The ViewSonic PJD7828HDL has high lumens, but that drops down to 927 lumens on its highest optimized setting.
The HC2100 is pretty much identical to the HC2040/5, so if the HC2040's zoom and lack of lens shift will work for you it's a better deal as you can get them refurbed from Epson cheap. The HC2150 has a much better 3LCD chipset with twice the native contrast.

I would also look at the BenQ HT1070/1070A while the HT2050A might be worth a 2nd look.

Here's an excerpt from an in-depth review of the PJD7828HDL:

Quote:
What is important is that the PJD7828HDL can put up about 2500 lumens with some respectable color – enough to do a good job on sports, HDTV, games etc. If you are a movie fanatic, and demand the best possible color accuracy, and picture quality, that will be either the Movie mode or the ViewMatch sRGB modes – both with a useable 1500+ lumens. 1500 lumens is what we long have called a “light canon.” For that’s more than enough lumens in a dedicated theater for a 150” diagonal screen, or even larger!
https://www.projectorreviews.com/vie...eview-summary/
The review is worth reading, especially his comparison/comments regarding lower cost 3LCD PJs (like the HC2100).

Heck, I'd say go for the Viewsonic and if you run it in DynamicEco mode it should more than do the job, plus it only weighs 5lb!
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post #62 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
The HC2100 is pretty much identical to the HC2040/5, so if the HC2040's zoom and lack of lens shift will work for you it's a better deal as you can get them refurbed from Epson cheap. The HC2150 has a much better 3LCD chipset with twice the native contrast.



I would also look at the BenQ HT1070/1070A while the HT2050A might be worth a 2nd look.



Here's an excerpt from an in-depth review of the PJD7828HDL:





The review is worth reading, especially his comparison/comments regarding lower cost 3LCD PJs (like the HC2100).



Heck, I'd say go for the Viewsonic and if you run it in DynamicEco mode it should more than do the job, plus it only weighs 5lb!


I’ve read good and bad things about that particular Viewsonic, plus on projectorcental and thewirecutter they both speak of the poor color that matches much lower end Epsons or BenQ’s. I can always test it! I’m aiming towards the 2150 in the end.
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post #63 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
I’ve read good and bad things about that particular Viewsonic, plus on projectorcental and thewirecutter they both speak of the poor color that matches much lower end Epsons or BenQ’s. I can always test it! I’m aiming towards the 2150 in the end.

PCentral says:


Quote:
The ViewSonic PJD7828HDL is an impressive value for $589. It delivers the best contrast and three-dimensionality of any of its sub-$700 competition. And color is superb right out of the box -- it ties with only one other projector for the closest color match to a reference image. It also sharply focused from edge to edge, offers a 16.4 ms input lag for gamers, and provides a 1.3x zoom for greater setup flexibility than most of its competition. If you need yet another reason to consider it, it is bright enough even with our video optimized settings for a 155" 16:9 image in a dark room with a 1.3 gain screen or a 100" image in a room with moderate ambient light.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/View...tor-review.htm
Sounds good to me...

I can't find the Wirecutter review but the PCentral and PReview reviews are both pretty good, and if you are viewing with lots of light then per the PReviews review it can do that too.
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post #64 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
I’ve read good and bad things about that particular Viewsonic, plus on projectorcental and thewirecutter they both speak of the poor color that matches much lower end Epsons or BenQ’s. I can always test it! I’m aiming towards the 2150 in the end.

PCentral says:


Quote:
The ViewSonic PJD7828HDL is an impressive value for $589. It delivers the best contrast and three-dimensionality of any of its sub-$700 competition. And color is superb right out of the box -- it ties with only one other projector for the closest color match to a reference image. It also sharply focused from edge to edge, offers a 16.4 ms input lag for gamers, and provides a 1.3x zoom for greater setup flexibility than most of its competition. If you need yet another reason to consider it, it is bright enough even with our video optimized settings for a 155" 16:9 image in a dark room with a 1.3 gain screen or a 100" image in a room with moderate ambient light.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/View...tor-review.htm
Sounds good to me...

I can't find a Wirecutter review but the PCentral and PReview reviews are both pretty good, and if you are viewing with lots of light then per the PReviews review it can do that too.
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post #65 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
PCentral says:









Sounds good to me...



I can't find the Wirecutter review but the PCentral and PReview reviews are both pretty good, and if you are viewing with lots of light then per the PReviews review it can do that too.


The Epson 2150 seems like an nicer upgrade out of the box from the Viewsonic after checking out specs. Would you agree?
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post #66 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 06:00 PM
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Someone may have suggested this, however, consider the Epson LS100. 4,000 lumens. Good with ambient light. It is a UST projector.

Regards
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post #67 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by spyboy View Post
Someone may have suggested this, however, consider the Epson LS100. 4,000 lumens. Good with ambient light. It is a UST projector.



Regards


Not for $3k though.....
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post #68 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
The Epson 2150 seems like an nicer upgrade out of the box from the Viewsonic after checking out specs. Would you agree?
I'd definitely go for the HC2150 over the HC2100. I'd have to see the HC2150 side by side with a Viewsonic to decide, but I probably would be happy enough with the HC2150.
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post #69 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
I'd definitely go for the HC2150 over the HC2100. I'd have to see the HC2150 side by side with a Viewsonic to decide, but I probably would be happy enough with the HC2150.


Viewsonic is definitely a contender, but the Epson has a far better track record. Plus it fits better with my setup as Epson’s site shows. The lens will yes sit about 11” from the ceiling.
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post #70 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
Viewsonic is definitely a contender, but the Epson has a far better track record. Plus it fits better with my setup as Epson’s site shows. The lens will yes sit about 11” from the ceiling.
This is what I get from the Viewsonic calculator for a ceiling height of 96in:



Quote:
image Diagonal:
110

Height:
53.93

Width:
95.87

Projection Distance:
110.25
inch
Ceiling to Screen Top:
13.7 inch
Bottom of screen:
28.37 inch

Projector Distance from ceiling: 11 inch
Zoom Ratio : 1.3 x (wideangle)
So it seems similar. The HC2150 does have some lens shift so you have more options than your printout, IIRC.
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post #71 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
This is what I get from the Viewsonic calculator for a ceiling height of 96in:











So it seems similar. The HC2150 does have some lens shift so you have more options than your printout, IIRC.


What pj are you currently using?
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post #72 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
What pj are you currently using?
An HC1040, HC2030 and W1070 (3 residences).

Last edited by DunMunro; 05-10-2018 at 10:03 PM.
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post #73 of 88 Old 05-10-2018, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
 
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How to determine which projector is best in an ambient room setting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
An HC1040, HC20340 and W1070 (3 residences).


Sweet lineup! Well the Viewsonic arrives tomorrow and the Epson 2150 arrives Monday so I’ll do a side by side without ceiling mounting either one to see what’s up! I’m curious to see if I test each one out at around 16ft if it will affect how bright the image is or even if each one can hit my 110” from that distance. All I can do is test it. I would rather mount behind my sofa vs in front of it being that I can’t move my sofa up more.

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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
An HC1040, HC2030 and W1070 (3 residences).


Does BrilliantColor need to be disabled on the Viewsonic? I read that on thewirecutter. Any idea on the best setting for it and the 2150? Or should I just leave it out of the box and try different modes when I compare them side by side?
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
An HC1040, HC2030 and W1070 (3 residences).


Does BrilliantColor need to be disabled on the Viewsonic? I read that on thewirecutter. Any idea on the best setting for it and the 2150? Or should I just leave it out of the box and try different modes when I compare them side by side?
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post #76 of 88 Old 05-11-2018, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
Does BrilliantColor need to be disabled on the Viewsonic? I read that on thewirecutter. Any idea on the best setting for it and the 2150? Or should I just leave it out of the box and try different modes when I compare them side by side?
PCentral says to turn it off for best PQ but that's only when you want to watch something with all the lights off. For TV and viewing in less than optimal conditions try leaving it on, as per PReviews. I'd try the default modes to begin with.
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How to determine which projector is best in an ambient room setting.

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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
PCentral says to turn it off for best PQ but that's only when you want to watch something with all the lights off. For TV and viewing in less than optimal conditions try leaving it on, as per PReviews. I'd try the default modes to begin with.




Viewsonic is super bright. Only issue is I can’t seem to get a perfect image edge to edge. Not sure if the best settings, but I have it on Movie mode on with Neutral color temperature in Eco mode. The pattern photo below is much sharper in person btw. My phone doesn’t take the best pics. I’m noticing something while watching sports that the motion isn’t as smooth as I’m used to, but that may be my DirecTV at times too. Motion scenes or sports seem to lose focus or sharpness at times before going back to normal, but again I’ll have to give it some time to make sure. Also, switching DirecTV channels seem to cause an annoying beep/clocks/buzzing that I’m not used to. It’s almost as if the projector is having issues matching the sound quickly enough to the new channel.



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Last edited by 4rpr; 05-11-2018 at 08:28 PM.
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It looks pretty good. I usually leave the PJ sound off or leave the external speakers off.

It looks like the PJ is rotated a bit off level.
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
It looks pretty good. I usually leave the PJ sound off or leave the external speakers off.



It looks like the PJ is rotated a bit off level.


With no lens shift it’s difficult to get it square. Doesn’t look like this one will work out. My concern with the Epson 2150 is it has to be at least 11” away.

I have to be 10ft 4inches from the wall while ceiling mounted. I’m not able to move the projector further back because someone who is taller will stand up and bump their head on it.
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post #80 of 88 Old 05-12-2018, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post
With no lens shift it’s difficult to get it square. Doesn’t look like this one will work out. My concern with the Epson 2150 is it has to be at least 11” away.

I have to be 10ft 4inches from the wall while ceiling mounted. I’m not able to move the projector further back because someone who is taller will stand up and bump their head on it.
Lens shift won't help if the projector/screen needs to be rotated axially - that's something that you'll have to do with the ceiling mount.
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
Lens shift won't help if the projector/screen needs to be rotated axially - that's something that you'll have to do with the ceiling mount.


I’ll stick with the HT2050A. No issues there. Viewsonic is almost there though.
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After experiencing lens shift, I couldn't go back. I unpacked the projector back in September 2017...placed it temporarily on the shelf with a ten minute setup and haven't touched it since. We are north of 1700 hours on it already.

.
Hi Steve.

Could you, please, be more specific about lens shift? My retailer told me that keystone is just fine, no need for lens shift. However, I've read that lens shift and keystone are night and day.

Thank you.
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Hi Steve.

Could you, please, be more specific about lens shift? My retailer told me that keystone is just fine, no need for lens shift. However, I've read that lens shift and keystone are night and day.

Thank you.
Keystone is terrible. Stay away from it at all costs if possible.
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post #84 of 88 Old 05-14-2018, 03:51 PM
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Keystone is terrible. Stay away from it at all costs if possible.


Lumens is a little prone to hyperbole.

Most AV enthusiasts will avoid using keystone correction as using it reduces resolution and can cause artifacts that will become more noticeable the more correction you apply. I always recommend to avoid it when possible but then I’m an OCD AVS forum member that scrutinizes every little detail to maximize my AV experience. While I don’t use keystone in my home theater we have a projector set up in our bedroom that has some MILD keystone correction applied and even with test patterns it’s nearly impossible to tell. Again: if you can avoid it than do so but if you can’t it’s not the end of the world.
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post #85 of 88 Old 05-14-2018, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brovacar View Post
Hi Steve.

Could you, please, be more specific about lens shift? My retailer told me that keystone is just fine, no need for lens shift. However, I've read that lens shift and keystone are night and day.

Thank you.

Lens shift allows me to place my projector a little off center and a little higher than I could without the mechanical shift. It keeps the image in a rectangle and all the pixels in play. It results in no image degradation. I can move the rectangle up down and to the side.

Keystone is the ability to compensate for not having the projector in the proper place for a straight rectangle image. It is an electronic function of the projector. The projector will "rectangle" the image at the expense of lost pixels and the lost pixels are displayed as light around the image. Also, the light from the projector will be an odd shape (trapezoid) with only the corrected image being a straight "rectangle". Thumb 1 and 2 are the shots of the same frame at different distances. The last thumb is with the projector of to the side with the auto keystone enabled...easy to see the trapezoid light box.

I'm sure others can explain it better, but for me the pictures illustrate the extreme limitations of keystone.
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post #86 of 88 Old 05-14-2018, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rpr View Post


Viewsonic is super bright. Only issue is I can’t seem to get a perfect image edge to edge. Not sure if the best settings, but I have it on Movie mode on with Neutral color temperature in Eco mode. The pattern photo below is much sharper in person btw. My phone doesn’t take the best pics. I’m noticing something while watching sports that the motion isn’t as smooth as I’m used to, but that may be my DirecTV at times too. Motion scenes or sports seem to lose focus or sharpness at times before going back to normal, but again I’ll have to give it some time to make sure. Also, switching DirecTV channels seem to cause an annoying beep/clocks/buzzing that I’m not used to. It’s almost as if the projector is having issues matching the sound quickly enough to the new channel.



Based on the test pattern, the projector is turned a bit to the right and tilted a bit up to hit the top of the screen. You might try to get the Viewsonic pointed straight ahead and lower so the test pattern is perfect. That would tell you where the screen could be moved to and have a perfect alignment. You would then know if the edge-to-edge sharpness is due to lens or simply alignment. You might decide moving the screen is less trouble and cost than returning the Viewsonic. I have the HT2050A and like it a lot, but I don't see how the alignment issue is going to be any better with your screen so high and your mount so low.
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Based on the test pattern, the projector is turned a bit to the right and tilted a bit up to hit the top of the screen. You might try to get the Viewsonic pointed straight ahead and lower so the test pattern is perfect. That would tell you where the screen could be moved to and have a perfect alignment. You would then know if the edge-to-edge sharpness is due to lens or simply alignment. You might decide moving the screen is less trouble and cost than returning the Viewsonic. I have the HT2050A and like it a lot, but I don't see how the alignment issue is going to be any better with your screen so high and your mount so low.


How do I know how much lower the screen should be?
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post #88 of 88 Old 05-14-2018, 06:16 PM
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How do I know how much lower the screen should be?
If you point the projector so the pattern is square -- no tilted lines anywhere -- the image will overflow off the screen onto the wall to the left and onto the wall below. That will tell you exactly where you could reposition the screen so the image falls inside its borders again and be square. Measure the distance between the new image position and the top of the white screen material and that is how far you would need to lower the mounting holes. Measure the distance between the new image and the right inside frame edge and that is how far left the mounting holes for the screen would need to be.
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