BenQ W2700 / HT3550 Announcement and Owner’s Thread - Page 125 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3721 of 4189 Old 06-13-2019, 04:15 PM
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I recently purchased a HT3550 and was wondering if there were recommendations for a reasonable (less than $250) 4K Blu-Ray player that would pair nicely with the projector.


Thanks in advance!
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post #3722 of 4189 Old 06-13-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by oztheatre View Post
At it's price point yes, but the contrast will be very low regardless. Anyone reputable got numbers? I'm guessing native 700:1, dynamic maybe 2000:1 ?

As for sophisticated glass optics... I can tell you now, the plastic lenses on a 10 year old jvc are far better than this, it's not even close. Touting 'all glass optics' doesn't mean anything if the glass elements are made on the cheap and arranged the same way. They, like all the others, are just on the same bandwagon, trying wow you with fancy terms. Those small bk7 elements can be produced for a couple of bucks each and coated for the same!

I think it's a good projector for the money I really do, but it doesn't compete with anything more expensive, like the 5700, or step up again to the Epson 6050. I've had all 3 side by side. It's not meant to anyway hence the pricing. I don't know what other $1500 dlp machines are there to compete with it anyway? optoma?

With regards to test patterns, yes obviously we don't watch them. I look at test patters as like a doctor for the projector, it will show what's wrong with it in some areas. They should always be used. But you can see the CA during movies, it's not hard to miss at most times.

The problem is though, if those CA problems were not there, you don't realise how much BETTER the image would be. That's why people buy projectors with good optics, like the LK models and the more expensive Sony's and now this new Epson 6050.

Let's just keep this within the realms of reality eh
Serious question, now that epson has refurbished epson 5040ub for $1151, would that be a better buy than this benq ht3550?

epson 5040ub con compared to benq:
- 2k not 4k
- hdr tone mapping not as good (but 3rd firmware auto hdr. I did read from projectorreview.com that the ht3550 auto tone mapping is better with hdr).
- 10 Gbps hdmi 2.0 (this is a bummer for 4k60 hdr gaming. will need a fury link ($200) to get 8 bit 4:2:0 to get 4k60 hdr)

benq con
- contrast not as good and no ultra black. How does dynamic iris high compare to epson 5040ub black?

I am aware epson refurb is a lotto. but it does have 2 yr warranty and maybe if the 5040ub dies, I will be sent 5050ub replacement...

I had the ht2050 (my previous projector) side by side with ht3550. I don't really think the resolution was that much better from viewing distance. Only text is less sharp and when i get close to the screen can i see the individual pixels on the ht2050. But ht3550 color was better than ht2050. So i think i can live with e-shift...

I also watched a video comparing .47 dmd with the .66 dmd and eshift. .47 dmd sharpness is not as good as .66. it is better than esfhit but not by too much. Also the contrast on .47 dmd isn't as good due to the 1920x1080p mirror or something like.

I am seriously still considering the ht3550 but is tempted by the 5040ub...
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post #3723 of 4189 Old 06-13-2019, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by IDAnonymous View Post
Serious question, now that epson has refurbished epson 5040ub for $1151, would that be a better buy than this benq ht3550?

epson 5040ub con compared to benq:
- 2k not 4k
- hdr tone mapping not as good (but 3rd firmware auto hdr. I did read from projectorreview.com that the ht3550 auto tone mapping is better with hdr).
- 10 Gbps hdmi 2.0 (this is a bummer for 4k60 hdr gaming. will need a fury link ($200) to get 8 bit 4:2:0 to get 4k60 hdr)

benq con
- contrast not as good and no ultra black. How does dynamic iris high compare to epson 5040ub black?

I am aware epson refurb is a lotto. but it does have 2 yr warranty and maybe if the 5040ub dies, I will be sent 5050ub replacement...

I had the ht2050 (my previous projector) side by side with ht3550. I don't really think the resolution was that much better from viewing distance. Only text is less sharp and when i get close to the screen can i see the individual pixels on the ht2050. But ht3550 color was better than ht2050. So i think i can live with e-shift...

I also watched a video comparing .47 dmd with the .66 dmd and eshift. .47 dmd sharpness is not as good as .66. it is better than esfhit but not by too much. Also the contrast on .47 dmd isn't as good due to the 1920x1080p mirror or something like.

I am seriously still considering the ht3550 but is tempted by the 5040ub...
The benq isn't native 4k, it uses a 3k chipset with a colour wheel. Don't watch videos. You cannot see any difference between them at normal seating positions. Aside from the new epson 6050 having a much superior lens giving it a cleaner sharper image.

Turn the 'silence' off on the benq and you will see what the panel is really like.
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post #3724 of 4189 Old 06-13-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by oztheatre View Post
The benq isn't native 4k, it uses a 3k chipset with a colour wheel. Don't watch videos. You cannot see any difference between them at normal seating positions. Aside from the new epson 6050 having a much superior lens giving it a cleaner sharper image.



Turn the 'silence' off on the benq and you will see what the panel is really like.
No Benq uses a 2k chipset with the .47 chip, it then shifts it 3 more times to give the 4k discrete pixel structure. The .67 uses the 3k and shifts it once diagonally.

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post #3725 of 4189 Old 06-13-2019, 09:53 PM
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Question for y'all with more experience with projectors:

Is it a safe bet to use the AVS HD 709 (or Disney WOW) disk to do some basic Color/Tint adjustments on a projector the same way you would with the TV?

Reason I'm asking is that with both my HT3550 units that I've had (original and RMA unit) I've had to bump both Color and Tint significantly (Color = 63 and Tint = 54 on my current unit) for it to "pass" the Color/Tint pattern on the AVS HD 709 disk (flashing Blue/White and Magenta/Cyan bars). After this adjustment the colors do look good to my eyes, if a bit more saturated than "normal", but I'm still wondering:

Is this within the normal range? Should I not be using that pattern to adjust color on a projector?

Thanks!
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post #3726 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Randomite View Post
Question for y'all with more experience with projectors:

Is it a safe bet to use the AVS HD 709 (or Disney WOW) disk to do some basic Color/Tint adjustments on a projector the same way you would with the TV?
It's probably an ok start, though not sure you'll actually improve the default calibration without a calibration meter, you can try I suppose. Also, calibration has gotten a lot more complex with HDR stuff, you have to worry about different types of gamma targets as well. Also, it's better to use external HDR tone mapping, like a Panny 820/9000 or use MadVR on an HTPC to do the tone mapping. It's unlikely the Benq's tone mapping is all that great, it might be passable.

The cheapest calibration meter that is decent is probably the Spyder 5 express, if you can get it working with a projector. You have to install free third party stuff to use ii with a projector. DispCalGUI and Argyll driver (and hcfr?) is what you'll install to get it working, maybe some other stuff as well. If I didn't have a calibration meter to use, I'd probably find a TV or a monitor in the house and find out what its most accurate settings were, and compare the two playing the same content and with test patterns.

Changing the Tint control is generally a bad idea as you are changing the hue of all colors at once, but whatever works. Technically I believe changing the tint control on most projectors affects both the primary and secondary colors, but it depends on the projector maybe as some tint controls are whacky. I generally avoid messing with it.
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post #3727 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
It's probably an ok start, though not sure you'll actually improve the default calibration without a calibration meter, you can try I suppose. Also, calibration has gotten a lot more complex with HDR stuff, you have to worry about different types of gamma targets as well. Also, it's better to use external HDR tone mapping, like a Panny 820/9000 or use MadVR on an HTPC to do the tone mapping. It's unlikely the Benq's tone mapping is all that great, it might be passable.

The cheapest calibration meter that is decent is probably the Spyder 5 express, if you can get it working with a projector. You have to install free third party stuff to use ii with a projector. DispCalGUI and Argyll driver (and hcfr?) is what you'll install to get it working, maybe some other stuff as well. If I didn't have a calibration meter to use, I'd probably find a TV or a monitor in the house and find out what its most accurate settings were, and compare the two playing the same content and with test patterns.

Changing the Tint control is generally a bad idea as you are changing the hue of all colors at once, but whatever works. Technically I believe changing the tint control on most projectors affects both the primary and secondary colors, but it depends on the projector maybe as some tint controls are whacky. I generally avoid messing with it.
Hey thanks for the input.

Yeah I'm not even trying to touch the HDR profile settings as I know those are way more complicated. I'm just talking about the regular "Cinema" profile and the REC 709 gamut. My concern is that these projectors are supposed to come out of the factory individually calibrated to deliver 100% coverage of the REC 709 gamut in Cinema mode. By altering the settings as I did for Color and Tint, did I completely change that coverage? And if so, why does the "correct" calibration that BenQ did not pass the AVS HD 709 Color/Tint test?
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post #3728 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 01:51 AM
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The WCG-HDR and Rec709 modes should be separate as you noted, so I doubt changing it affects the other unless it remains changed when you select the other modes. I don't know as I don't own this projector.

Generally speaking, you'll have to use a calibration meter. There is no way for them to exactly calibrate a projector at a factory unless you have a neutral colored room, or better a blacked out bat cave. Otherwise, your screen and the room are going to cause even their factory calibration to be off. Though in most situations, it would probably only be off less than 6 dE, which isn't terrible or anything.

That's assuming they even accurately calibrated every single projector shipped, and that's a big question in itself. Not saying they did or didn't, just some of them could have been rush jobs.

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post #3729 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Shikamaru View Post
I recently purchased a HT3550 and was wondering if there were recommendations for a reasonable (less than $250) 4K Blu-Ray player that would pair nicely with the projector.

Apparently the inexpensive Panasonic UHD Blu-ray players feature the same sophisticated video processing their larger brothers do. Have seen at a friend what HDR improvement my little Panasonic 424 did for a 260 Sony 4K-projector and I've repeatedly hearing that Panasonic noticably improved image detail for JVC e-shift projectors, so I'm confident that it contributes to 4K performance of the HT3550, too.
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post #3730 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 03:46 AM
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Does anyone know what the zero position is of the vertical lens shift? There are no numbers or anything else on the wheel. Is 0 (as in no adjustment) all the way counter-clockwise?
Lens shift on this unit is Vertical up to +10% one direction only (no negative shift).

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I'm deciding where to mount my projector relative to my screen. Am I correct then with this projector I want it in a position where no zoom needs to be used and no verical keystone correction needs to be engaged?

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The projector lens has to be level with the top edge of your projection image or above it. Zoom can and probably needs to be used, keystone correction should be avoided.
It's unlikely lens shift will result in chromatic aberration, "ideally" it should be in the default position.

Offset on this model is 100%, which means the center of the lens needs to be at the same level at the top (if ceiling mounted) visible edge of the screen.

The further away a projector is mounted from a screen the less bright it will be. Difference on units with this throw range is about 25% loss.
Also when it's mounted closer zoom has to be used and this zooms the image, which means it enlarges the pixels, so less sharp.
Sharpness perception is impacted by seating distance, screen resolution, source, and personal preference.
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post #3731 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 04:23 AM
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I recently purchased a HT3550 and was wondering if there were recommendations for a reasonable (less than $250) 4K Blu-Ray player that would pair nicely with the projector.


Thanks in advance!
If you’re looking for a very good value player the Sony UBP-X700 is a great choice. Can be had well under your budget price. You can also score a good deal on a close-out UBP-X800, a more full featured player with regard to multi-channel audio, but no Dolby Vision decoding if you have a secondary 4K capable display. (No DV on 3550) As another member mentioned the lower end Panasonic models are also a good choice, but not available to those of us in the US. BTW lots of good 4K and 4K HDR demo material on YouTube. Just search the “HDR Channel” to show what the 3550 can do.
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post #3732 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
Also, it's better to use external HDR tone mapping, like a Panny 820/9000 or use MadVR on an HTPC to do the tone mapping. It's unlikely the Benq's tone mapping is all that great, it might be passable.
From what I've read this projector's tonemapping has actually been widely praised by members on here and in reviews as it takes better advantage of the projectors internal mechanisms and processing (like dynamic iris) so you may actually be better off starting with the projector's tonemapping.

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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
That's assuming they even accurately calibrated every single projector shipped, and that's a big question in itself. Not saying they did or didn't, just some of them could have been rush jobs.
I believe each projector comes shipped with a printed calibration report but yes I'm sure you will get better accuracy with a calibration meter though I'm not sure how many users bother with projectors in this price range. I think reviewers have said the projectors colors are most accurate out of the box.

I don't own the projector though so I can't speak from personal experience.
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post #3733 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 05:48 AM
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Offset on this model is 100%, which means the center of the lens needs to be at the same level at the top (if ceiling mounted) visible edge of the screen.

But IIRC that's not the traditional factory default setting. I need to explain: For years one of the issues of DLP projectors is their descent from modern business projectors which project the image much higher above projector lens level (good for a meeting room with a table, less likeliness your table neighbor will block your view), known as "offset".


For over a decade now several home entertainment front projectors have been equipped with an offset compensator somewhat erroneously (IMHO) called "lens shift".


Thus it became possible to reduce the offset to the point where it is for example possible to align the projector lens of a ceiling mounted projector with the top edge of the projection image on the other side.


What has apparently changed in the meantime is this: The manufacturers deliver the front projectors with 'lens shift' set to maximum (projector lens aligns with the top edge of the projection image on the other side), yet it's possible to still lower the top edge of the image further down (for a ceiling mounted projector).


It's a clever premise change in terms of marketing, but someone who has a higher ceiling might wonder whether he really should go with the 'new' default setting of the lens shift or perhaps hang his projector still more higher.


I for one wonder which positioning provides the best results in terms of image sharpness and less CA, but if I had to place a bet, I'd think that the higher positioning might be better.

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post #3734 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 06:26 AM
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From what I've read this projector's tonemapping has actually been widely praised by members on here and in reviews as it takes better advantage of the projectors internal mechanisms and processing (like dynamic iris) so you may actually be better off starting with the projector's tonemapping.
MadVR is the best with the Panny 2nd, as there are no projectors that have great tonemapping that I know of, some are passable. As far as people's own opinions, not sure what to say, maybe Benq's is the best of all of them as far as tone mapping, but it's just unlikely it is going to be better than MadVR. Printed Cert on calibration doesn't mean much, point is they could be using an inaccurate meter or calibrating in a room that has a tint to it. It will depend on your own screen.
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post #3735 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Samfield View Post
If you’re looking for a very good value player the Sony UBP-X700 is a great choice. Can be had well under your budget price. You can also score a good deal on a close-out UBP-X800, a more full featured player with regard to multi-channel audio, but no Dolby Vision decoding if you have a secondary 4K capable display. (No DV on 3550) As another member mentioned the lower end Panasonic models are also a good choice, but not available to those of us in the US. BTW lots of good 4K and 4K HDR demo material on YouTube. Just search the “HDR Channel” to show what the 3550 can do.
I returned my X700 due to the freezing issue that if you search online seems like it happens a decent amount with them. I switched to the LG UBK90 and it has worked perfectly. At the lower costs, I just wanted a 4k player that worked.
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post #3736 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 08:36 AM
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I returned my X700 due to the freezing issue that if you search online seems like it happens a decent amount with them. I switched to the LG UBK90 and it has worked perfectly. At the lower costs, I just wanted a 4k player that worked.
Yes, you are correct, UBK90 is another good option with generally positive user reviews. (Just wondering because I don't own the UBK90; has LG ever corrected the disc tray lock-up issue through a firmware update and added more streaming apps besides Netflix and YouTube?)
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post #3737 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 09:57 AM
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So I saw thewirecutter published an article yesterday comparing 4k projectors. They gave their best budget pick to the 5050UB. Complained that the HT3550 wasn't very sharp and HDR looked washed out with less accurate colors.

Also noticed they complained the dynamic iris in the HT5550 was "slow to react and very noisy."
Ya, what a joke. The 5050ub is $2700 vs $1600 for the HT3550. An ever comparison would have been the HT5550 which is priced @ $2499. Also, they consider $2700 a budget amount for a PJ?
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post #3738 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 11:59 AM
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Ya, what a joke. The 5050ub is $2700 vs $1600 for the HT3550. An ever comparison would have been the HT5550 which is priced @ $2499. Also, they consider $2700 a budget amount for a PJ?
The problem is the reviewers (and many in the forums) completely skip over pixel fill. As much as it doesn't bother some people (and that's fine and dandy), the pixel fill of an LCD projector literally drives me bonkers. It looks way too digital and the clouds look horrid on an LCD at my seating distance, a bit better with e-shift on, but still not great.

DLP vs. LCD is a mixed bag, there is no question about it. LCD also has issues with the image looking flat at times, inconsistent. DLP doesn't have this issue.

So it's like reviewers are either blind or they are simply bias'd and being bought off by Epson (who knows). As much praise as there is for Epson, makes you wonder how many free vacations to Hawaii they got. Yes, the Epson has way better blacks, but they don't come free, it comes at the cost of all white scenes (hockey, clouds, even backgrounds looking pixelated).

Now 5 or so people will jump in from this forum and say the pixel fill is just not an issue, I've seen it in my own room, and is an issue. It is 'the issue' for me and it trumps all other attributes by a factor of 3 or more. I would have stuck with the Epson if it weren't for the pixel fill, and never even went to a JVC.
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Hi Sage11x

Is there a specific way to upgrade the firmware?

I formatted my usb drive to exFat 64gb

copied the updated_signed folder (not the zip file)

I also tried copying all the contents of that folder and pasted into the root directory of my usb drive

plug into usb 3.0 port in the back


no luck!

also get a lot of stuttering with Netflix and Amazon prime 4k with my nvida shield. Any tips? I have fiber from ATT, so speed isn't an issue. tested the wifi signal and it says 550mbs from fast.com
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post #3740 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
MadVR is the best with the Panny 2nd, as there are no projectors that have great tonemapping that I know of, some are passable. As far as people's own opinions, not sure what to say, maybe Benq's is the best of all of them as far as tone mapping, but it's just unlikely it is going to be better than MadVR. Printed Cert on calibration doesn't mean much, point is they could be using an inaccurate meter or calibrating in a room that has a tint to it. It will depend on your own screen.
I wish I knew this earlier. I have a sony 285es and there's a kind of cult in the owners thread about some custom gamma curves for HDR. Simply put, going to a Panny UB820 made a huge bump in PQ, was still unsatisfied so I build a HTPC with madvr. This is simply on another level. If anything, a HTPC is a must have if you're serious enough to have a home theater. Nothing else comes close.
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post #3741 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 04:33 PM
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I wish I knew this earlier. I have a sony 285es and there's a kind of cult in the owners thread about some custom gamma curves for HDR. Simply put, going to a Panny UB820 made a huge bump in PQ, was still unsatisfied so I build a HTPC with madvr. This is simply on another level. If anything, a HTPC is a must have if you're serious enough to have a home theater. Nothing else comes close.
MadVR looks real good from what people say, I haven't had time to implement it yet. I was trying to get the 'right' UHD drive for my PC, and they sold out. I'll have to research which drive to get, I dislike having to copy the disks to store them on a NAS, that's just overkill when I rarely ever watch the same movie twice (there are a few I do, but not that many, and usually I wait years between watching it again).

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post #3742 of 4189 Old 06-14-2019, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by xealo View Post
Ya, what a joke. The 5050ub is $2700 vs $1600 for the HT3550. An ever comparison would have been the HT5550 which is priced @ $2499. Also, they consider $2700 a budget amount for a PJ?
Agreed. They did state that the HT2050A was the best "cheap" projector. It has got me thinking actually if the HT2050A presents a better value at its cost over the HT3550. While the HT3550 is at the lower end of 4k projectors, a 5040UB or Sony VPL-HW45ES can be had for only slightly more and would probably throw a better image even if only 1080p. You can probably also get a decent 4k 75" or 85" LED for the same or less.

I personally am still debating if this is worth upgrading over my W1070. I really want to upgrade to something with much better contrast and black levels but that can also do a 100" image from 8.5 feet even if it's not 4k.

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I personally am still debating if this is worth upgrading over my W1070. I really want to upgrade to something with much better contrast and black levels but that can also do a 100" image from 8.5 feet even if it's not 4k.
For that you need a properly blacked out room, regardless of projector.
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Agreed. They did state that the HT2050A was the best "cheap" projector. It has got me thinking actually if the HT2050A presents a better value at its cost over the HT3550. While the HT3550 is at the lower end of 4k projectors, a 5040UB or Sony VPL-HW45ES can be had for only slightly more and would probably throw a better image even if only 1080p. You can probably also get a decent 4k 75" or 85" LED for the same or less.

I personally am still debating if this is worth upgrading over my W1070. I really want to upgrade to something with much better contrast and black levels but that can also do a 100" image from 8.5 feet even if it's not 4k.
IF you are a big movie watcher, then the best upgrade is going to a scope screen (2.35/2.40), problem is most projectors don't support motorized controls or lens memory except the Epson, or higher-end JVC/Sony. There are workarounds without lens memory and automated controls, you can use 2 screens and then just change the zoom, make one screen higher than the other, or use masking. However, it still requires getting up and changing zoom dial each time when switching between 16:9 and 2.35 (CIH/ Scope). Not that hard though if you shelf mount or put a 'semi-permanent' step ladder under the PJ.

I have dual screens and my total cost was $90 for both screens, well that doesn't count the $200 I spent in Triple Black Velvet treatments. I made a 120" 2.35 screen from RocLon blackout cloth +TBV borders, then I have an electric 16:10 Draper 110" (106" for 16:9), that I got during a fire sale for $60. The BO cloth and Draper screen look identical from seating position, just goes to show you that BO cloth is a good material.

I use a JVC and it has lens memory, but I could get by without it if I had to (with just my dual screen setup). I would make the 16:9 the electric (as I have now), and simply shoot the 16:9 image higher.

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My setup actually provides for multiple screen sizes too, I can watch in 5 different sizes:

2.35/2.40 = 120" Wall
16:9 = 100" Wall
16:9 = 106" Electric
16:10 = 110" Electric
1.85 = 92"?

I could also remove my side masking and get a bigger CIH screen up to about 130", providing for even more screen size choices.
However, if I do that, my speakers are in the way, so I'd have to go to all ceiling mounted fronts (which might be lame and ruin atmos effect).

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For that you need a properly blacked out room, regardless of projector.
I do have black velvet on the walls and ceiling around the first four feet of my screen. Main issue is the black floor is too high so blacks look very grey in dark scenes. Bright and daytime scenes look fantastic.

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IF you are a big movie watcher, then the best upgrade is going to a scope screen (2.35/2.40), problem is most projectors don't support motorized controls or lens memory except the Epson, or higher-end JVC/Sony. There are workarounds without lens memory and automated controls, you can use 2 screens and then just change the zoom, make one screen higher than the other, or use masking. However, it still requires getting up and changing zoom dial each time when switching between 16:9 and 2.35 (CIH/ Scope). Not that hard though if you shelf mount or put a 'semi-permanent' step ladder under the PJ.

I have dual screens and my total cost was $90 for both screens, well that doesn't count the $200 I spent in Triple Black Velvet treatments. I made a 120" 2.35 screen from RocLon blackout cloth +TBV borders, then I have an electric 16:10 Draper 110" (106" for 16:9), that I got during a fire sale for $60. The BO cloth and Draper screen look identical from seating position, just goes to show you that BO cloth is a good material.

I use a JVC and it has lens memory, but I could get by without it if I had to (with just my dual screen setup). I would make the 16:9 the electric (as I have now), and simply shoot the 16:9 image higher.
I actually use two screens as well. The 16:9 screen is a 100" DIY spandex screen. The scope is a DIY carl's place flexigray screen. They mount over my TV stand in my basement. It's a shared space so they store away when not in use. The basement itself is actually quite long but very narrow (11' x 35') and I'm currently projecting on the shorter end towards the front but with the screen over the TV stand it reduces my throw to about 8.5 feet with the BenQ. If I went with a JVC or Epson my image would be about 80" at which point I think makes more sense just getting a bigger TV.
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My scope screen is a flush wall screen, both screens are mounted simultaneously. My electric is covered in black velvet, so it's invisible, it basically comes out of thin air


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post #3748 of 4189 Old 06-15-2019, 05:49 AM
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Hi Sage11x



Is there a specific way to upgrade the firmware?



I formatted my usb drive to exFat 64gb



copied the updated_signed folder (not the zip file)



I also tried copying all the contents of that folder and pasted into the root directory of my usb drive



plug into usb 3.0 port in the back





no luck!



also get a lot of stuttering with Netflix and Amazon prime 4k with my nvida shield. Any tips? I have fiber from ATT, so speed isn't an issue. tested the wifi signal and it says 550mbs from fast.com

From BenQ:


Download the file, unzip into the main directory and go. If it’s not working maybe try a different USB key?

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I do have black velvet on the walls and ceiling around the first four feet of my screen. Main issue is the black floor is too high so blacks look very grey in dark scenes. Bright and daytime scenes look fantastic.



I actually use two screens as well. The 16:9 screen is a 100" DIY spandex screen. The scope is a DIY carl's place flexigray screen. They mount over my TV stand in my basement. It's a shared space so they store away when not in use. The basement itself is actually quite long but very narrow (11' x 35') and I'm currently projecting on the shorter end towards the front but with the screen over the TV stand it reduces my throw to about 8.5 feet with the BenQ. If I went with a JVC or Epson my image would be about 80" at which point I think makes more sense just getting a bigger TV.
Sony is an outdated model, and the Epson 5040UB refurbished can be found (when in stock) for just over 1k.
Not exactly clear how your setup is arranged, but it sounds like you need to find a way to use a bigger screen. Projector wise not much can be done.
Maybe a lens or a mirror setup, but not familiar with those.
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post #3750 of 4189 Old 06-15-2019, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by xealo View Post
Ya, what a joke. The 5050ub is $2700 vs $1600 for the HT3550. An ever comparison would have been the HT5550 which is priced @ $2499. Also, they consider $2700 a budget amount for a PJ?


I generally really like wirecutter. You have to read carefully to make sure the contributor is someone who knows their stuff. Chris Heinonen definitely knows his stuff. But I question the sense of having a $6000 projector (the JVC NX5, their top pick) in the same conversation as a $1500 projector— let alone a $3000 projector (the Epson 5050ub, their ‘budget’ pick). I think maybe they need some price tiers. They break out a best ‘cheap’ projector, ironically the BenQ HT2050A. But that’s it. My guess is projectors simply aren’t a big enough niche for them to dedicate more space.

I guess next to a $6000 native 4K NX9 the HT3550 might not stand out as much as I feel it stands out at-it’s-price. But that’s like saying my FRS/86 wouldn’t really stand out parked next to a 911. IMO it doesn’t change the fact that the 86 is a standout product at it’s price point. Context is important here and it’s something that is lacking in wirecutter’s ‘best for most folks’ format. Unfortunately, it’s that kind of format that scares people off from projectors— it did me for years. I was under the impression that you either had to spend thousands and thousands of dollars or simply settle.

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