BenQ HT3550 True 4K Home Cinema Projector Review - Page 13 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #361 of 507 Old 04-04-2019, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonH View Post
The projector actually has a spot on it labeled center of mass, and it's not in the exact center of the projector. I don't know if that's common for recent Benq projectors, I know my ht1075 didn't have that.

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Originally Posted by sage11x View Post
With lower priced mounts I always try to center for weight. This can help avoid drift over time. For the last couple of years BenQ has included a target along the bottom (top?) of the projector to make that easier.

You’ll barely need to adjust the positioning. The HT3550’s lens is just slightly further to the outside of the case than the HT2050A (which is more towards the center).

The HT3550, thankfully, has more spaced apart holes than last year’s HT2550. Unfortunately, the HT3550 continues a trend where the bottom of the projector isn’t perfectly flat so you’ll need a mount that has short legs for it’s mounting arms or you’ll need to buy some longer screws and spacers.
I don't recall seeing anything on my HT2050a that stood out as a marker for the center of mass. I used something to balance the PJ and moved it around until it was close and marked it with Tape and then lined up the center spot of my removable mount piece. I did find by doing this, the legs of the Peerless mount were in some funky locations that I wasn't sure about. I wasn't happy with it at all, but it's light and I checked and it's not going anywhere. Maybe with the larger distance between holes will make it easier to situate those arms/legs on that Peerless Mount.

I'd rather not move my mount as that was a pain with the drop ceiling. I had to measure from wood I mounted under the joists so I had clearance under ceiling tile, and had to cut a hole in the tile for my Extension Pipe. I originally cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to use as my Tile, and painted black. I then mounted my PJ to that. It looked great. What I didn't like was that the tiles have play in them inside the track. Slight bumps would move it. I added some shims above the ceiling between the plywood tile and the sides of the rail, so it wouldn't move I then opted to take that down and use an extension pole and to mount it to the Joists above the suspended ceiling. I hate to change it a third time, but will if need be.

If the horizontal difference isn't much, I'm not against sliding my screen left or right a hair to match up properly. My screen is my horizontal lens shift...LOL

Tony
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post #362 of 507 Old 04-04-2019, 10:08 PM
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Just got the 3550 in today, quicky tested some Xbox one platformer games. Rayman Legends and Cuphead. I could not sense any input lag at all. Either input lag is over hyped for single player games thst require quick reflexes or I'm losing my hand eye coordination.
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post #363 of 507 Old 04-04-2019, 11:35 PM
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Just got the 3550 in today, quicky tested some Xbox one platformer games. Rayman Legends and Cuphead. I could not sense any input lag at all. Either input lag is over hyped for single player games thst require quick reflexes or I'm losing my hand eye coordination.
Please fill us in on your thoughts, about it after u run some movies !
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post #364 of 507 Old 04-04-2019, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by keithj101 View Post
Just got the 3550 in today, quicky tested some Xbox one platformer games. Rayman Legends and Cuphead. I could not sense any input lag at all. Either input lag is over hyped for single player games thst require quick reflexes or I'm losing my hand eye coordination.
Please fill us in on your thoughts, about it after u run some movies ! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
Will do. Just checked out 4k content off YouTube on the Xbox. Was honesty stunned how good it looked. I mean even just streaming off YouTube, incredible.
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post #365 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 12:06 AM
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One issue I'm having is im not getting signal going through my reciever. Using 15foot monoprice cable. Works fine going directly to xbox. Any suggestions? New sdmi? Which brand?
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post #366 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by keithj101 View Post
One issue I'm having is im not getting signal going through my receiver. Using 15foot monoprice cable. Works fine going directly to xbox. Any suggestions? New sdmi? Which brand?

It sounds as if there is some probability that your AV-receiver doesn't support 4K passthrough. I recommend verifying whether your AV-Receiver is up to the task or not.
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post #367 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithj101 View Post
Just got the 3550 in today, quicky tested some Xbox one platformer games. Rayman Legends and Cuphead. I could not sense any input lag at all. Either input lag is over hyped for single player games thst require quick reflexes or I'm losing my hand eye coordination.


I keep reading comments like this and it reinforces my decision to stop determining what is and isn’t an appropriate amount of lag for other people.

What to do if you find yourself stuck with no hope of rescue:
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post #368 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by tonybradley View Post
I don't recall seeing anything on my HT2050a that stood out as a marker for the center of mass. I used something to balance the PJ and moved it around until it was close and marked it with Tape and then lined up the center spot of my removable mount piece. I did find by doing this, the legs of the Peerless mount were in some funky locations that I wasn't sure about. I wasn't happy with it at all, but it's light and I checked and it's not going anywhere. Maybe with the larger distance between holes will make it easier to situate those arms/legs on that Peerless Mount.



I'd rather not move my mount as that was a pain with the drop ceiling. I had to measure from wood I mounted under the joists so I had clearance under ceiling tile, and had to cut a hole in the tile for my Extension Pipe. I originally cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to use as my Tile, and painted black. I then mounted my PJ to that. It looked great. What I didn't like was that the tiles have play in them inside the track. Slight bumps would move it. I added some shims above the ceiling between the plywood tile and the sides of the rail, so it wouldn't move I then opted to take that down and use an extension pole and to mount it to the Joists above the suspended ceiling. I hate to change it a third time, but will if need be.



If the horizontal difference isn't much, I'm not against sliding my screen left or right a hair to match up properly. My screen is my horizontal lens shift...LOL
Maybe this will help, it's actually marked center of gravity and there is another one marked center line of lens as well that the silver sticker is up against. This is from my replacement unit that just arrived!

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post #369 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by keithj101 View Post
One issue I'm having is im not getting signal going through my receiver. Using 15foot monoprice cable. Works fine going directly to xbox. Any suggestions? New hdmi? Which brand?

It sounds as if there is some probability that your AV-receiver doesn't support 4K passthrough. I recommend verifying whether your AV-Receiver is up to the task or not.
It's a brand new uhd reciever. So that isnt the issue.
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post #370 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by keithj101 View Post
It's a brand new uhd reciever. So that isnt the issue.


I wouldn’t be so sure.

Try taking the AVR out of the chain. If you still can’t receive 2160p then buy a different cable. Both cables on both ends of the AVR need to be ‘premium’ HDMI capable of 4K @ 60Hz.

What to do if you find yourself stuck with no hope of rescue:
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post #371 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonH View Post
Maybe this will help, it's actually marked center of gravity and there is another one marked center line of lens as well that the silver sticker is up against. This is from my replacement unit that just arrived!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Is that the HT2050a? I don't recall seeing that on mine.

Tony
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post #372 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tonybradley View Post
Is that the HT2050a? I don't recall seeing that on mine.


That’s the HT3550.

What to do if you find yourself stuck with no hope of rescue:
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post #373 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sage11x View Post
That’s the HT3550.
Thanks. I don't recall seeing anything like that on my HT2050a, but this is a nice feature. Not that hard to figure it out yourself, but that's exact.

Tony
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post #374 of 507 Old 04-05-2019, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I don't recall seeing anything like that on my HT2050a, but this is a nice feature. Not that hard to figure it out yourself, but that's exact.


It’s surprisingly nice to have. Especially considering most projectors in this price and size range end up mounted on inexpensive, lightweight mounts.

What to do if you find yourself stuck with no hope of rescue:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonH View Post
Maybe this will help, it's actually marked center of gravity and there is another one marked center line of lens as well that the silver sticker is up against. This is from my replacement unit that just arrived!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Keep us updated on your impressions with the replacement unit! I'm now the one who's on the outside looking in as I wait for my replacement unit
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Mine shipped today directly from Benq to arrive on Monday. It's going to be a long weekend. Waiting after the 21st has been a challenge in of itself. Since then I've bought a larger screen and another tv for another room while i've been waiting. My impressions to come early next week. I currently have a ht2050 and watch 3d movies along with 4k using a oppo 203. I also have 4k with directv just waiting and waiting.....
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Mine shipped today directly from Benq to arrive on Monday. It's going to be a long weekend. Waiting after the 21st has been a challenge in of itself. Since then I've bought a larger screen and another tv for another room while i've been waiting. My impressions to come early next week. I currently have a ht2050 and watch 3d movies along with 4k using a oppo 203. I also have 4k with directv just waiting and waiting.....
I'd be interested in your impressions on the 3D (and anything else of course). I have the ht3050, so basically the same. I am looking for an upgrade to the 1080p 3D image on a 100" screen along with my first 4k/HDR experience. The extra lag I can probably handle, but is still a bummer. I'm kind of waiting until the bright variant is announced/released to see if that is much better for 3D without sacrificing much on the other image qualities.

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post #378 of 507 Old 04-08-2019, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I've updated my second post with my full HT3550 / HT2050A comparison. Please let me know if there is anything I missed. Thanks.
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What to do if you find yourself stuck with no hope of rescue:
Consider yourself lucky that life has been good to you so far. Alternatively, if life hasn't been good to you so far, which given your present circumstances seems to be more likely, consider yourself lucky that it won't be troubling you much longer...

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I've updated my second post with my full HT3550 / HT2050A comparison. Please let me know if there is anything I missed. Thanks.


Huzzah!
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I've updated my second post with my full HT3550 / HT2050A comparison. Please let me know if there is anything I missed. Thanks.
Thanks for the comparison! It was really helpful.

In one of the first pictures you had a wall mount, could you share what mount you’re using? I couldn’t find it in any of the posts.
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post #381 of 507 Old 04-08-2019, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comparison! It was really helpful.

In one of the first pictures you had a wall mount, could you share what mount you’re using? I couldn’t find it in any of the posts.


It’s this one:
Mount-It! Projector Mount Wall Mount Universal Adjustable Design with Extendable Length for LCD/DLP Epson, Benq, Optoma Projectors, Black (MI-603) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AFONFU..._ZEbRCbX6GY3XQ

It’s not a peerless but if you stupidly sold your peerless and needed a wall mount in a pinch that didn’t look terrible and actually holds more than 2lbs...

What to do if you find yourself stuck with no hope of rescue:
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post #382 of 507 Old 04-08-2019, 11:44 PM
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Here are my intial thoughts and experience for day 1 with the HT3550. It's a bit heavier and larger than the HT2050 which I'm coming from. After it was mounted, the image was level with the lens and seemed to have more shift going up than it did going down in comparison to my HT2050. It really didn't have much of an offset. I bought a new low profile mount and it wasn't needed at all but I didn't want to take it down and put my other mount back on it. The auto keystone kicked in and I turned that off and set it to 0 to help with the initial alignment. when I came back to the projector later in the day it seemed the auto keystone was turned back on and I couldn't understand how my image was all messed up and I physically started moving the projector and then it dawned on me something is happening in the software and not physical. pushed the keystone and the auto was on. I'll have to watch this as I start using it more. I did experience half of the screen a bit messed up occasionally like other people have pointed out. It was a bit bothersome since I was tinkering like crazy. It would go away if I reengaged the picture mode or a setting in the menu. I don't think this would be an issue during regular use.

First I checked out cinema mode with REC 709 color using the disney wow disc and raised brightness to 51 and contrast to 49. I then put in the AVS 709 test disc and found color was clipping and reduced it to 42. I put up some grayscale ramps and appeared neutral. Overall I was impressed with the out of the box look. I tuned color enhancer to 0, flesh tone 0, and 4k enhancer to 0. I turned off brillant color since I didn't like what it was doing using some test patterns on the disney wow disc. I then pulled out my Spyder 5 meter using HCFR and did some measurements. Grayscale was at 8250 and fairly flat. Now, I'm not sure how accurate my meter is since it's fairly cheap. The colors were fine at 709 spec exept for Magenta which was reddish. I left the settings alone from the factory for now and moved over to HDR WCG which is the main reason I bought the projector.

I am using an Oppo 203 with a Marantz SR7012. I have HDR patterns from diversified video solutions and spent the bulk of my time here today. First off the HDR 10 mode is piss poor when WCG in engaged. The filter is like a 25% cyan lens that gets applied to the image is how I would explain it. whites/gray take on a turquoise hue. I wonder if others are experiencing the same when the turn on WCG. I was pretty dissapointed. turning on brillant color made things green and with it off was better but still ugly. If I was using this a regular user I would not engage WCG and stick to REC709 colors, but this isn'y why I got the projector. I bought it for 4k, HDR, and WCG. Then I looked at the HDR colors and noticed heavy color clipping. A picture is attached. No matter what I did, contast 0, color 0, the clipping of red and blue was never resolved. I changed the lamp mode to economic when in HDR10 mode because the fan is LOUD!. It moves a lot of air. Economic mode was about what I'm used to with the 2050. I want to take advantage of the Iris which was not that impressive. Black levels I think are worse than on the 2050. I thought they would be improved but I am disspointed. It's still acceptable though.

HDR10 Grayscale
Red Gain: 91
Green Gain: 76
Blue Gain: 59
Red Offset: 261
Green Offset: 256
Blue Offset: 252

I then played with the color managment settings and tweaked them a bit to get more accurate WCG colors. Cyan and Magenta were off. Yellow was greenish.

Red
234, 200, 200
Green
220, 200, 200
Blue
165, 200, 200
Cyan
325, 200, 200
Magenta
134, 190. 200
Yellow
195, 200, 200

I'm curious what other people with meters have come up with for color/grayscale for HDR10 mode.
I took some pictures of the HT2050 and with the HT3550. I was not really blown way which i was expected to be. This is with color enhancer at 0. I liked the colors (levels and gradation) with the 2050 from memory. After I was discouraged, I decided to play with the color enhancer setting. Increasing this gave more life to Aquaman. It was getting late and will leave further tweaking for HDR10 mode for tomorrow. I'll watch some content to get a better feel for it. Eventually I'll go back to tighten up the cinema mode with my meter as well. I don't think I will use the d. cinema mode since it engages WCG for non HDR content which in my mind is mastered at rec709 anyways. The grayscale on d. cinema was awful too and didn't want to deal with it since it was getting late.

3d. ehhh. I watched a part of the grinch (2018) and it was fine. Again, the grayscale needs some tweaking in that mode too so I didn't love it. I think it is the raised black level that i've noticed most of all in comparing it to the HT2050. My stance tonight is don't get this to improve your 1080p. Stick with the HT2050a which is the best bang for the buck. I'm not really blown way by the resolution/sharpness of the HT3550. I wonder what the optoma fanboys are used to seeing. I haven't seen one. I don't like the redpush/over saturation look of the optomas but again I've never owned one. Using the color enhancer to max 18 can give you this look.

Tomorrow I'll play more with resolution and the color enhancer. Towards the end of my night I kicked it over to normal lamp mode and did like the extra punch. The fan noise may be something I can get used to since I think it helps with the HDR effect too. Overall if you don't engage the WCG I think most people will be happy with the out of the box settings/look. But for me I want the wider color gamut. I'm using a silver ticket 120" white screen. I also have some saberation or whatever it's called where it has some blue above the white test.... at least in the lower right corner when i'm up close. I don't see it from my seat though. Just something to point out.

Summary. I was expecting better black levels. It's not a sharp with fine details as I was expecting either. Color clipping in HDR is a let down too after I've heard so much about the color tone mapping/etc... (this is using WCG) 3d I can live with. I buy mostly 4k discs now anyways. I do have about 130 3d titles though with Spiderverse in 3d on the way. I really think my disappointment is with the muted colors with color enhancer at 0 and I was liking it at 9 since it reminded more of what I was getting on the 2050. I'm looking forward to more users with hands on experience. There has been so much talk just about availability that I think we are ready to get into the next phase with tweaks. It is plenty bright in my light controlled room even with economic and WCG. More updates to come...

The 2050 pics seems sharper to me and the brightness is appears lower. I used the 4k discs for both projectors. The last picture from spidey with the houses has the 3550 with less color. this is with color enhancer at 0. I need to go back and try 9. color enhancer is at 0 for all the 3550 pictures.
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Last edited by Bachelor; 04-09-2019 at 12:04 AM.
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post #383 of 507 Old 04-09-2019, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Bachelor View Post
The 2050 pics seems sharper to me and the brightness is appears lower. I used the 4k discs for both projectors. The last picture from spidey with the houses has the 3550 with less color. this is with color enhancer at 0. I need to go back and try 9. color enhancer is at 0 for all the 3550 pictures.
Which Pictures are 2050 and which are 3550?

Tony
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post #384 of 507 Old 04-09-2019, 04:29 AM
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Which Pictures are 2050 and which are 3550?
They are labeled 2050 and 3350... In the file name of the photos.


Without even blowing them up, in the animated one I can see more detail and sharpness. More depth to the faces where the 2050 looks a little blown out.

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post #385 of 507 Old 04-09-2019, 06:23 AM
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Here are my intial thoughts and experience for day 1 with the HT3550. It's a bit heavier and larger than the HT2050 which I'm coming from. After it was mounted, the image was level with the lens and seemed to have more shift going up than it did going down in comparison to my HT2050. It really didn't have much of an offset. I bought a new low profile mount and it wasn't needed at all but I didn't want to take it down and put my other mount back on it. The auto keystone kicked in and I turned that off and set it to 0 to help with the initial alignment. when I came back to the projector later in the day it seemed the auto keystone was turned back on and I couldn't understand how my image was all messed up and I physically started moving the projector and then it dawned on me something is happening in the software and not physical. pushed the keystone and the auto was on. I'll have to watch this as I start using it more. I did experience half of the screen a bit messed up occasionally like other people have pointed out. It was a bit bothersome since I was tinkering like crazy. It would go away if I reengaged the picture mode or a setting in the menu. I don't think this would be an issue during regular use.

First I checked out cinema mode with REC 709 color using the disney wow disc and raised brightness to 51 and contrast to 49. I then put in the AVS 709 test disc and found color was clipping and reduced it to 42. I put up some grayscale ramps and appeared neutral. Overall I was impressed with the out of the box look. I tuned color enhancer to 0, flesh tone 0, and 4k enhancer to 0. I turned off brillant color since I didn't like what it was doing using some test patterns on the disney wow disc. I then pulled out my Spyder 5 meter using HCFR and did some measurements. Grayscale was at 8250 and fairly flat. Now, I'm not sure how accurate my meter is since it's fairly cheap. The colors were fine at 709 spec exept for Magenta which was reddish. I left the settings alone from the factory for now and moved over to HDR WCG which is the main reason I bought the projector.

I am using an Oppo 203 with a Marantz SR7012. I have HDR patterns from diversified video solutions and spent the bulk of my time here today. First off the HDR 10 mode is piss poor when WCG in engaged. The filter is like a 25% cyan lens that gets applied to the image is how I would explain it. whites/gray take on a turquoise hue. I wonder if others are experiencing the same when the turn on WCG. I was pretty dissapointed. turning on brillant color made things green and with it off was better but still ugly. If I was using this a regular user I would not engage WCG and stick to REC709 colors, but this isn'y why I got the projector. I bought it for 4k, HDR, and WCG. Then I looked at the HDR colors and noticed heavy color clipping. A picture is attached. No matter what I did, contast 0, color 0, the clipping of red and blue was never resolved. I changed the lamp mode to economic when in HDR10 mode because the fan is LOUD!. It moves a lot of air. Economic mode was about what I'm used to with the 2050. I want to take advantage of the Iris which was not that impressive. Black levels I think are worse than on the 2050. I thought they would be improved but I am disspointed. It's still acceptable though.

HDR10 Grayscale
Red Gain: 91
Green Gain: 76
Blue Gain: 59
Red Offset: 261
Green Offset: 256
Blue Offset: 252

I then played with the color managment settings and tweaked them a bit to get more accurate WCG colors. Cyan and Magenta were off. Yellow was greenish.

Red
234, 200, 200
Green
220, 200, 200
Blue
165, 200, 200
Cyan
325, 200, 200
Magenta
134, 190. 200
Yellow
195, 200, 200

I'm curious what other people with meters have come up with for color/grayscale for HDR10 mode.
I took some pictures of the HT2050 and with the HT3550. I was not really blown way which i was expected to be. This is with color enhancer at 0. I liked the colors (levels and gradation) with the 2050 from memory. After I was discouraged, I decided to play with the color enhancer setting. Increasing this gave more life to Aquaman. It was getting late and will leave further tweaking for HDR10 mode for tomorrow. I'll watch some content to get a better feel for it. Eventually I'll go back to tighten up the cinema mode with my meter as well. I don't think I will use the d. cinema mode since it engages WCG for non HDR content which in my mind is mastered at rec709 anyways. The grayscale on d. cinema was awful too and didn't want to deal with it since it was getting late.

3d. ehhh. I watched a part of the grinch (2018) and it was fine. Again, the grayscale needs some tweaking in that mode too so I didn't love it. I think it is the raised black level that i've noticed most of all in comparing it to the HT2050. My stance tonight is don't get this to improve your 1080p. Stick with the HT2050a which is the best bang for the buck. I'm not really blown way by the resolution/sharpness of the HT3550. I wonder what the optoma fanboys are used to seeing. I haven't seen one. I don't like the redpush/over saturation look of the optomas but again I've never owned one. Using the color enhancer to max 18 can give you this look.

Tomorrow I'll play more with resolution and the color enhancer. Towards the end of my night I kicked it over to normal lamp mode and did like the extra punch. The fan noise may be something I can get used to since I think it helps with the HDR effect too. Overall if you don't engage the WCG I think most people will be happy with the out of the box settings/look. But for me I want the wider color gamut. I'm using a silver ticket 120" white screen. I also have some saberation or whatever it's called where it has some blue above the white test.... at least in the lower right corner when i'm up close. I don't see it from my seat though. Just something to point out.

Summary. I was expecting better black levels. It's not a sharp with fine details as I was expecting either. Color clipping in HDR is a let down too after I've heard so much about the color tone mapping/etc... (this is using WCG) 3d I can live with. I buy mostly 4k discs now anyways. I do have about 130 3d titles though with Spiderverse in 3d on the way. I really think my disappointment is with the muted colors with color enhancer at 0 and I was liking it at 9 since it reminded more of what I was getting on the 2050. I'm looking forward to more users with hands on experience. There has been so much talk just about availability that I think we are ready to get into the next phase with tweaks. It is plenty bright in my light controlled room even with economic and WCG. More updates to come...

The 2050 pics seems sharper to me and the brightness is appears lower. I used the 4k discs for both projectors. The last picture from spidey with the houses has the 3550 with less color. this is with color enhancer at 0. I need to go back and try 9. color enhancer is at 0 for all the 3550 pictures.
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"The Bunker" | Dedicated Theater Build Under Suspended Slab Garage
Testing: BenQ HT5550 | Epson 5050UB | 160" Dragonfly™ Fixed AT Screen
Denon X6300H | 9.4.4 (7.2.4 Discrete) | 9x Episode 900 Series LCR/Surrounds | 4x Episode 1700 Series ATMOS Heights | 4x Episode 12" Evo Subs
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post #386 of 507 Old 04-09-2019, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bachelor View Post
The 2050 pics seems sharper to me and the brightness is appears lower. I used the 4k discs for both projectors. The last picture from spidey with the houses has the 3550 with less color. this is with color enhancer at 0. I need to go back and try 9. color enhancer is at 0 for all the 3550 pictures.
Which Pictures are 2050 and which are 3550?
The first picture is the 2050 and second is the 3550. I didn't realize the file names are missing.
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post #387 of 507 Old 04-09-2019, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bachelor View Post
Here are my intial thoughts and experience for day 1 with the HT3550. It's a bit heavier and larger than the HT2050 which I'm coming from. After it was mounted, the image was level with the lens and seemed to have more shift going up than it did going down in comparison to my HT2050. It really didn't have much of an offset. I bought a new low profile mount and it wasn't needed at all but I didn't want to take it down and put my other mount back on it. The auto keystone kicked in and I turned that off and set it to 0 to help with the initial alignment. when I came back to the projector later in the day it seemed the auto keystone was turned back on and I couldn't understand how my image was all messed up and I physically started moving the projector and then it dawned on me something is happening in the software and not physical. pushed the keystone and the auto was on. I'll have to watch this as I start using it more. I did experience half of the screen a bit messed up occasionally like other people have pointed out. It was a bit bothersome since I was tinkering like crazy. It would go away if I reengaged the picture mode or a setting in the menu. I don't think this would be an issue during regular use.

First I checked out cinema mode with REC 709 color using the disney wow disc and raised brightness to 51 and contrast to 49. I then put in the AVS 709 test disc and found color was clipping and reduced it to 42. I put up some grayscale ramps and appeared neutral. Overall I was impressed with the out of the box look. I tuned color enhancer to 0, flesh tone 0, and 4k enhancer to 0. I turned off brillant color since I didn't like what it was doing using some test patterns on the disney wow disc. I then pulled out my Spyder 5 meter using HCFR and did some measurements. Grayscale was at 8250 and fairly flat. Now, I'm not sure how accurate my meter is since it's fairly cheap. The colors were fine at 709 spec exept for Magenta which was reddish. I left the settings alone from the factory for now and moved over to HDR WCG which is the main reason I bought the projector.

I am using an Oppo 203 with a Marantz SR7012. I have HDR patterns from diversified video solutions and spent the bulk of my time here today. First off the HDR 10 mode is piss poor when WCG in engaged. The filter is like a 25% cyan lens that gets applied to the image is how I would explain it. whites/gray take on a turquoise hue. I wonder if others are experiencing the same when the turn on WCG. I was pretty dissapointed. turning on brillant color made things green and with it off was better but still ugly. If I was using this a regular user I would not engage WCG and stick to REC709 colors, but this isn'y why I got the projector. I bought it for 4k, HDR, and WCG. Then I looked at the HDR colors and noticed heavy color clipping. A picture is attached. No matter what I did, contast 0, color 0, the clipping of red and blue was never resolved. I changed the lamp mode to economic when in HDR10 mode because the fan is LOUD!. It moves a lot of air. Economic mode was about what I'm used to with the 2050. I want to take advantage of the Iris which was not that impressive. Black levels I think are worse than on the 2050. I thought they would be improved but I am disspointed. It's still acceptable though.

HDR10 Grayscale
Red Gain: 91
Green Gain: 76
Blue Gain: 59
Red Offset: 261
Green Offset: 256
Blue Offset: 252

I then played with the color managment settings and tweaked them a bit to get more accurate WCG colors. Cyan and Magenta were off. Yellow was greenish.

Red
234, 200, 200
Green
220, 200, 200
Blue
165, 200, 200
Cyan
325, 200, 200
Magenta
134, 190. 200
Yellow
195, 200, 200

I'm curious what other people with meters have come up with for color/grayscale for HDR10 mode.
I took some pictures of the HT2050 and with the HT3550. I was not really blown way which i was expected to be. This is with color enhancer at 0. I liked the colors (levels and gradation) with the 2050 from memory. After I was discouraged, I decided to play with the color enhancer setting
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Scotty I'm in cedar hills
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post #388 of 507 Old 04-09-2019, 06:46 AM
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Scotty I'm in cedar hills
Lehi here. PM me if you want to come by and check out how my HT3550 behaves as well as check out the HT5550.

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This is a comparison of the BenQ HT3550 UHD projector and the BenQ HT2050A HD projector. This is meant as a supplement to my HT3550 review so if you haven't read that yet I would start there.






Why this comparison?



This comparison is intended as a roadmap for current BenQ owners that are considering an upgrade to 4K with the HT3550. For those not familiar with BenQ's lineage of 'shorter' throw HD projectors, it started with the W1070 back in 2013 and continued on through the HT1075, HT2050, HT3050 and the most recent HT2050A. Each model in the series has stood out for occupying an intersection of performance, features and price that have made them exceptionally popular with consumers and critics alike. BenQ has aimed the HT3550 squarely at recapturing the same enthusiasm those models enjoyed. Besides sharing a similar form factor and a nearly identical 'shorter' throw ratio and zoom range (which makes the HT3550 a slide in replacement for any one of the models I mentioned above), the HT3550 represents the same excellent value with class leading performance and features at it's price point.



Why should you listen to me?



I'm very familiar with BenQ's projector lineup having owned an HT2050 that was my main theater display for more than two years. I've also lived with the HT3550 for the past month and have written detailed reviews of both the HT3550 and HT2050A.



How did I test?



For my testing I had both the HT3550 and HT2050A in the same room pointed at the same screen playing the exact same content. For most of my picture quality comparisons I used HD Blu-rays played through a Panasonic BDT230 and duplicated through my Onkyo AVR. I also briefly compared UHD and HD content by attempting to match up time codes between the Panasonic BDT230 and my Sony X800 playing a UHD Blu-ray copy of the same movie on the HT3550.



A quick word about 4K.



This is not meant as a comparison between 4K and 1080p. To put it simply: the HT3550, when fed a quality UHD source, is in a different league from the HT2050A. As you would expect considering it retails for twice the price. I've been very vocal about my enthusiasm for projector 4K and the HT3550 is a truly excellent way to enjoy UHD content. Again, see my full review above for my opinions of the HT3550. Now, let's get into the comparison.







Operation and Hardware



The same basic menu powers both projectors and if you're familiar with any of BenQ's older models you'll feel right at home here. Everything is laid out logically and is easy to find. The remotes are similar although the HT3550 has a few useful direct access buttons like a handy one touch test pattern. The HT3550 is significantly quicker than the HT2050A when it comes to switching between inputs or locking onto a new source.



Physically the chassis are similar in shape and size with the HT3550 being a bit heavier with it's lens slightly further to the outside. Both models have similar zoom and lens shift. The HT3550 benefits from improved attention paid to light leakage. Honestly, I did not remember how much light leakage the HT2050A suffered particularly around the lens. The HT3550 has almost zero light leakage around it's lens and even features a handy shield to keep light from reflecting up on to your ceiling.



One area the HT3550 was not able to improve on the HT2050A is fan noise. While the HT3550's ECO lamp mode falls somewhere between the HT2050A's ECO and Normal/SmarEco modes, it's Normal lamp mode is significantly louder. Whereas the HT2050A mostly disappears once a movie begins the HT3550's fans can be heard during quiet passages.





Brightness



The HT2050A is ridiculously bright for an RGBRGB DLP projector and when placing them side by side you can see the HT2050A has an edge in lumen output. That said, the HT3550 is far from dim and, like the HT2050A should have little trouble standing up to some ambient light. One thing to note is that the HT2050A doesn't have very many ways to throttle it's light output. In my dark room on my 100" 1.1 gain screen the HT2050A is almost uncomfortably bright in it's SmartEco lamp mode-- the lamp mode that affords the best contrast. I'll talk about this more later on but if you have a dark, light controlled room the HT3550 is the more flexible projector.





Color



Equipped with a wide color filter and an out-of-the-box factory calibration the HT3550 is the more accurate of the two when it comes to color reproduction. BenQ claims the HT3550 produces 100% coverage of rec.709 and, of course, is capable of displaying significant coverage of the DCI-P3 color gamut with HDR content. It's here that the HT3550 really leaps ahead and is capable of producing color that more accurately reflects that of film with richer greens and more pronounced reds. To be fair to the HT2050A the use of the Ht3550's wide color filter does adversely effect lumen output. Therefore I spent a good deal of time running the HT3550 in what will likely be it's more popular mode, 'Cinema', to see how the HT2050A compared. All in all the HT2050A still has very accurate color and despite a tendency towards a slightly cooler color temperature I was impressed with how well the HD model kept up here.










Contrast



This is probably the biggest area of concern for those considering an upgrade to 4K. It's no secret that the first generation of 4K DLP projectors were a bit disappointing when it came to contrast/blacks with performance falling well below what the best 1080p DLPs can produce. I'm happy to say that BenQ has addressed this head on with the HT3550. I spent more time comparing this single area of performance between the two models than any other metric. I threw a variety of reference material and test patterns at the projectors to try and determine how well each performed in a variety of scenarios.



A couple of disclaimers first.



Right off the bat we need to acknowledge that iris situation. The HT3550 employs an active iris that can dynamically adjust the projectors light output depending on the scene. This gives the HT3550 an advantage over the HT2050A which is only equipped with BenQ's SmartEco lamp dimming. The HT3550 has SmartEco lamp dimming as well but the iris is more effective in improving contrast/blacks although it comes at the cost of occasional visible pumping. My guess is the majority of users won't find this objectionable. The HT2050A's lamp dimming is probably the least noticeable in action of any projector I've reviewed from them.



Second, we need to address the additional modes offered by the HT3550 that have no equivalent on the HT2050A. The HT3550 includes two modes that enable a special color filter to improve color reproduction: D.Cinema and HDR10 with wide color ON. These modes also reduce lumen output to a significant degree-- and this has a knock on effect on blacks and contrast. If you have a dark, light controlled room and your screen is not too large (I'd probably stick with 120" or below for these modes) then the 'filtered' modes offer a reduction in black floor and a commensurate increase in overall contrast. Ironically, this is one area where more lumens doesn't actually equal a better picture. The HT2050A has no way to reduce it's lumen output besides placing it's lamp in ECO which actually reduces it's overall contrast. While these filtered modes will only be usable by a certain percentage of the HT3550's owner base they do represent an advantage for those that have a dedicated space.



So what did I find? Well, my initial impressions were that the HT3550 produces better contrast with deeper blacks than the HT2050A. But that's why it was so important to get these projectors next to one another on the same screen. You see, the HT2050A with it's larger 1080p chip still has a slight edge in native contrast. This is the contrast that is not reliant on any lamp dimming or iris intervention. With certain test patterns or scenes that included a bright image surrounded by shadow you could bring out this advantage in the HT2020A. Still, the HT3550's dynamic contrast just gave it a leg up and I found my eye drawn to the punchier image offered by the 4K projector.



So what about without the iris? Well, disabling the iris did not in any way cripple the HT3550 although I found it's lamp dimming to not be as effective or as enjoyable as the iris. When both projectors were run with lamp dimming enabled I think the edge in contrast/blacks went back to the HT2050A but I have to stress that the advantage was slight and you would really need to have them side by side to notice a difference. One big note: this was while comparing HD content. When switching over to HDR the HT3550 reclaims it's contrast advantage thanks to the higher quality content.



Finally, the D.Cinema and HDR10 wide color modes on the HT3550 produced visibly deeper blacks and better contrast. Again, this is almost unfair to the HT2050A as it has no equivalent mode. In addition, as I pointed out before, you'll need a dedicated room to take full advantage of these modes as they have reduced lumen output. Still, for those that do this is a fantastic way to watch movies.



I've included some shots below that I hope will illustrate the differences I saw with my eye. I'll describe what settings were in play in each shot.

All shots are of the HT2050A on the left and the HT3550 on the right. Which looks better to you?









On mostly black scenes the iris can assist.




Finally, the HT3550 shows the advantage of lower lumens. These shots are with the wide color filter engaged.








Sharpness



Let me start by saying that the HT2050A is an amazingly sharp projector. Single chip DLP has always retained a sharpness advantage over competing projector tech and the HT2050A is a fine example of how good a 1080p display can look. With that said… the HT3550 is simply on another level. Even with HD content the Ht3550's vast resolution advantage is felt. The XPR pixel shifting tech employed here produces an image that all but eliminates pixel gap. The result being an amazingly clean and detailed image that just looks sharper regardless of your source. Rest assured, while feeding your 4K projector quality 4K content should be a priority, you'll still see gains with regular old HD content.





Video Processing and Motion Handling



One thing that I absolutely fell in love with on my original HT2050 is it's handling of 24fps film content. You see, I was coming from a Panasonic plasma that, while it could display 24fps natively, it didn't do a very good job of it. So I've long been accustomed to 3:2 pulldown judder. That HT2050 and it's successor HT2050A can display film natively without introducing judder. Great news, the HT3550 is the first 4K DLP that can accurately display 24fps film content in it's correct cadence without the need to perform a 3:2 pulldown. When run side by side both projectors displayed film content with aplomb and I noticed no artifacts or judder.



This is probably a good time to mention another area where the HT3550 has made significant strides: motion handling. The BenQ HT2050A has long been my reference for quality motion handling. What is motion handling? It's the ability for a display to accurately depict motion without loss of resolution or the introduction of artifacts or blur. Happily, the HT3550 has improved on it's 4K predecessor the HT2550 and now displays motion with the same crisp clarity as the best DLPs.



Gaming



If there is one area where I cannot heap praise on the HT3550 it would be it's gaming prowess. Even before plugging in my PS4 the difference in input latency was apparent between the two. The HT3550 was always a split second behind the HT2050A when navigating Blu-Ray menus and loading scenes. I measured 63ms of lag with the HT3550 while our friend Scott got a slightly lower number: 58ms. Unfortunately, I was unable to replicate his score and, in truth, the 63ms measurement itself requires some careful adjustment of the HT3550's various picture settings. If you just go with the out-of-the-box settings the HT3550 measures in the mid 70s.



Ironically, the HT2050A is the one projector I have not been able to measure myself. Try as I might I can never get it to recognize the Leo Bodnar lag tester I use. Still, the HT2050A's input lag has been well chronicled by other testers: 16ms with "fast mode" enabled. I don't need the Bodnar to confirm how snappy the HT2050A feels in action. It is not just one of my favorite gaming projectors it is one of my favorite gaming displays: full stop. The combination of DLP's blur-free motion handling and the ultra low input latency makes this projector a joy to game on. My ultimate torture test for any display is not Call of Duty or Gears of War-- it’s Super Mario Bros. 3 on the NES Classic. Just a few levels in and it was clear the HT2050A had a healthy advantage here.



Now, to be clear, you can game on the HT3550. Many of today's games feature a fair amount of controller input latency built-in and the typically luxurious animations of a modern triple A release do a good job of masking lag. It should also be mentioned here that sensitivity to lag varies greatly between gamers. A couple of years ago I was a lot more black and white on this issue but I've learned to relax as I've come across more and more gamers happily playing on displays with lag I would consider a deal breaker.



If you do decide to game on the HT3550 it is a sight to behold. The latest God of War, Spider-Man and the glorious Shadow of the Colossus remake all look stunning in 4K HDR. If you're a gamer looking more for an immersive visual experience than racking up a high score or posting the best K/D then you might find a lot to like here. But, for me, the snappy response of the HT2050A is well worth it's lack of resolution or ability to display HDR.





Final Thoughts



With the HT3550, BenQ has crafted a worthy successor to it's vaulted HD projector lineup. The HT3550 is packed to the gills with performance and features that bely it's low price of entry. Like the HT2050A before it, it has a real chance to become the defacto recommendation for enthusiasts shopping for a 4K projector near this price point. If you're an owner of a BenQ HD projector and you are looking to upgrade to 4K I can make a full-throated recommendation for the HT3550.
Ok, because people are claiming to have trouble finding it. Post #2 but I'll quote here just in case.
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post #390 of 507 Old 04-09-2019, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbpaddler View Post
They are labeled 2050 and 3350... In the file name of the photos.


Without even blowing them up, in the animated one I can see more detail and sharpness. More depth to the faces where the 2050 looks a little blown out.

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I know going by pictures are a dangerous thing when comparing quality, but from the pictures you posted, the HT2050a look better to me than the HT3550. In fact, I was not impressed at all by the HT3550 pictures. I would not be happy with that. The other pictures I've seen look much better than those, so not sure if it's my laptop screen, your settings, or just because they are pictures.

Tony
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