THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread - Page 117 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3481 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby41 View Post
Ok, thanks for the input. I do feel like I see it all the time, not just occasionally. Even when someone is just moving there head back and forth in a scene it looks juddery. I might be more sensitive to it. Me and my wife are playing borderlands 3 and we have a very cheap 48 inch tv set up beside us for her to play on and it look much smoother then our new expensive projector. I guess you can say I have some buyers remorse.
I must admit I’m too old to game so have never used mine for this. It’s a shame that the Epson isn’t working for you, how old is it, would it be possible to return to store and swap for something different?

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post #3482 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby41 View Post
Ok, thanks for the input. I do feel like I see it all the time, not just occasionally. Even when someone is just moving there head back and forth in a scene it looks juddery. I might be more sensitive to it. Me and my wife are playing borderlands 3 and we have a very cheap 48 inch tv set up beside us for her to play on and it look much smoother then our new expensive projector. I guess you can say I have some buyers remorse.
That's weird. I play Call of Duty on my PS4, it's really smooth, and with no lag. Even my son, who is a HARDCORE gamer, commented on how good the 5050 handled video games. He even said the 5050 performs better than my Sony XBR that I had before the 5050.

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post #3483 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Corcoran View Post
Quick question on contrast and brightness settings.

Should these settings be the same for sdr and hdr ? It's my understanding that hdr does not make a blacker black, or bright white but rather able to hit the darker and lighter set points in an image.

I'm using calibration settings posted online, but setting brightness and contrast myself based on my set up, ensuring they are not clipping high/low.
I just purchased and used the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc. What a cool resource.

Their recommendation is to set contrast and brightness separately for sdr and hdr, and to NOT change contrast for hdr (leave it at the default 50 setting).

However, some of the calibration settings posted online include contrast settings for hdr that are different than 50.

In any case, brightness and contrast (for sdr) are room-specific, so you should be setting those yourself.

The question to me and others is: do I leave contrast (50) alone for hdr, as per the recommendation of Spears & Munsil??

I'd appreciate discussion/input from others.
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post #3484 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 11:18 AM
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I have two 45 footers, 90' total of these and works fine, 4k hdr.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_...seq=1&format=2
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post #3485 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by dr bill View Post
I just purchased and used the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc. What a cool resource.

Their recommendation is to set contrast and brightness separately for sdr and hdr, and to NOT change contrast for hdr (leave it at the default 50 setting).

However, some of the calibration settings posted online include contrast settings for hdr that are different than 50.

In any case, brightness and contrast (for sdr) are room-specific, so you should be setting those yourself.

The question to me and others is: do I leave contrast (50) alone for hdr, as per the recommendation of Spears & Munsil??

I'd appreciate discussion/input from others.
After Gordon calibrated mine both SDR and HDR are at 50/50 on both Brightness and Contrast so I concur with that. I’m not not saying every calibration or projector will allows these setting to remain like this but mine definitely stayed at this.

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post #3486 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by vidwiz View Post
I have two 45 footers, 90' total of these and works fine, 4k hdr.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_...seq=1&format=2
This is an Optic-HDMI so yep this should work regardless of length.

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post #3487 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Luminated67 View Post
This is an Optic-HDMI so yep this should work regardless of length.
Nowhere does the description mention optical and the price reflects that. Just active high speed.
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post #3488 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Luminated67 View Post
This is an Optic-HDMI so yep this should work regardless of length.
Just an active cable. I bought one. Didn't work for me. YMMV. Had to go with Fiber Optic HDMI cable. That worked.

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post #3489 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Just an active cable. I bought one. Didn't work for me. YMMV. Had to go with Fiber Optic HDMI cable. That worked.

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I must admit when I saw source on one end I was sure it must have been an Opti cable.

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post #3490 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by vidwiz View Post
Nowhere does the description mention optical and the price reflects that. Just active high speed.
I don’t see that big of a difference between $42 and the $55 of a true Optical HDMI like the ATZEBE.

https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber-...ix=optical+hdm

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post #3491 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 01:32 PM
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Thats a good price!
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post #3492 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Alaric View Post
It's a very bright and capable projector which certainly helps with 3D. My old Mitsubishi hc5 was terrible at 3D and i never made it through a film, I've watched dozens and have started to collect 3D film.
The quality of film varies though, Avatar and Judge Dredd were amazing. Disney Pixar are great too and have a setup bit on most in the settings to fine tune which helped.
3D Dynamic works better than Cinema mode for me and I've tried a few 3D glasses types too. I'd say very, very capable rather than perfect.

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Thank you. That is very helpful. Still need to see one in action.

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post #3493 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bill View Post
I just purchased and used the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc. What a cool resource.

Their recommendation is to set contrast and brightness separately for sdr and hdr, and to NOT change contrast for hdr (leave it at the default 50 setting).

However, some of the calibration settings posted online include contrast settings for hdr that are different than 50.

In any case, brightness and contrast (for sdr) are room-specific, so you should be setting those yourself.

The question to me and others is: do I leave contrast (50) alone for hdr, as per the recommendation of Spears & Munsil??

I'd appreciate discussion/input from others.

I've been looking at the Spears & Munsil disc for calibrating my 5050UB as well. Since you've tried it, how did you find it for the novice? I saw that instructions aren't included on the disc but are on the website. Besides the brightness and contract stuff you described, did you have trouble translating what's in the instructions to making adjustments on the 5050UB? Appreciate any insight you can provide.
Thanks
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post #3494 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 04:02 PM
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Just to clarify, if you’re running fairly short cable lengths, say 3-6 feet, fiber optic HDMI is overkill. Is that correct?
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post #3495 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby41 View Post
Ok, thanks for the input. I do feel like I see it all the time, not just occasionally. Even when someone is just moving there head back and forth in a scene it looks juddery. I might be more sensitive to it. Me and my wife are playing borderlands 3 and we have a very cheap 48 inch tv set up beside us for her to play on and it look much smoother then our new expensive projector. I guess you can say I have some buyers remorse.
Are you sure you're getting 60fps over your cable?
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post #3496 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by R o d View Post
Just to clarify, if you’re running fairly short cable lengths, say 3-6 feet, fiber optic HDMI is overkill. Is that correct?
Yes. Really only over 20 ft is fiber optic really needed for 4K/60FPS

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post #3497 of 3908 Old 09-18-2019, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bill View Post
I am.

http://www.seymourav.com/default.asp

150" Center Stage XD single layer Precision frame.

Probably a close second to the 5050, in terms of best upgrades to my home theater.
I am considering the XD for my 6050. 150" width or diagonal? 16:9 or scope? What's your viewing distance and throw? Thanks.

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post #3498 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by groggrog View Post
I've been looking at the Spears & Munsil disc for calibrating my 5050UB as well. Since you've tried it, how did you find it for the novice? I saw that instructions aren't included on the disc but are on the website. Besides the brightness and contract stuff you described, did you have trouble translating what's in the instructions to making adjustments on the 5050UB? Appreciate any insight you can provide.
Thanks
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...ussion-17.html

As a novice, I am a little overwhelmed with everything it can do. So far, I have checked focus, brightness and contrast (in sdr). There's hours of other things to check, including some audio settings. Just scrated the surface so far...
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I am considering the XD for my 6050. 150" width or diagonal? 16:9 or scope? What's your viewing distance and throw? Thanks.
149.2" diagonal, 16:9, viewing distance is 15' - 18'. No complaints.

Makes the front of the room look very clean when you walk into the room - just a big, bright screen on the wall. Where those front speakers?!?
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Latest victim of the dust blob. It's just something that can't be unseen! Called Epson and refurbished unit is on its way


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post #3501 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 06:19 AM
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Latest victim of the dust blob. It's just something that can't be unseen! Called Epson and refurbished unit is on its way


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Really sorry to hear about that I know the LCD panels need to be cooled off in order for them to perform optimally so they can't seal the light path but there has to be something else they can do.

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post #3502 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 07:06 AM
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Fan noise

Hoping to get some opinions on fan noise.

I've been using a 5040UB in our media room for roughly 3 years. During those 3 years, fan noise was never an issue, let alone a thought while watching movies. We purchased the 5050UB to replace the 5040UB to up our HDR game. The first unit had a dead pixel so Epson replaced it with a new unit which I just installed two days ago. Within the first 10 minutes of watching SDR content, my wife and I both commented on how loud the fan sounded on the new projector. Last night I watched HDR content for the first time (in Digital Cinema with high lamp) and the fan noise was crazy loud. To make matters worse, after watching the movie I turned some TV on and shortly after doing so the projector turned off on its own. I turned the projector back on, the fan ran on turbo mode for a couple of minutes then the projector returned to "normal" operation and remained on for the remaining hour or that we were watching TV.

So... What is "acceptable" decibel levels for the fan on the 5050? My 5040 and first 5050 were nowhere near as loud as this new unit. Is it possible I have a bad fan? Could this account for the unit turning off on its own, was that a heat issue? Has anyone connected with Epson regarding fan noise, a dead pixel was easy to demonstrate for warranty purposes, a loud fan?

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post #3503 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 07:12 AM
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Hoping to get some opinions on fan noise.



I've been using a 5040UB in our media room for roughly 3 years. During those 3 years, fan noise was never an issue, let alone a thought while watching movies. We purchased the 5050UB to replace the 5040UB to up our HDR game. The first unit had a dead pixel so Epson replaced it with a new unit which I just installed two days ago. Within the first 10 minutes of watching SDR content, my wife and I both commented on how loud the fan sounded on the new projector. Last night I watched HDR content for the first time (in Digital Cinema with high lamp) and the fan noise was crazy loud. To make matters worse, after watching the movie I turned some TV on and shortly after doing so the projector turned off on its own. I turned the projector back on, the fan ran on turbo mode for a couple of minutes then the projector returned to "normal" operation and remained on for the remaining hour or that we were watching TV.



So... What is "acceptable" decibel levels for the fan on the 5050? My 5040 and first 5050 were nowhere near as loud as this new unit. Is it possible I have a bad fan? Could this account for the unit turning off on its own, was that a heat issue? Has anyone connected with Epson regarding fan noise, a dead pixel was easy to demonstrate for warranty purposes, a loud fan?
The fan should never be that loud either in Eco or even Medium. High lamp it will be louder but your surround sound system should really drown out the fan in all but quiet scenes. Sounds like you have a defective unit. The fan should never run in Turbo mode for ten minutes. The projector shut off because the fan couldn't keep up with the need to cool off the unit. Take a video next time it changes colors on the side and powers off. That should do it.

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post #3504 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 07:44 AM
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The 6050 spec sheet says 2600 lumens. Is that in high bulb mode? Using the calculator at Projector Central. Are the fL specs also in high bulb mode? If so, any way to calculate fL for low & medium bulb? Thanks.

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post #3505 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 07:52 AM
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The 6050 spec sheet says 2600 lumens. Is that in high bulb mode? Using the calculator at Projector Central. Are the fL specs also in high bulb mode? If so, any way to calculate fL for low & medium bulb? Thanks.
Yes the foot Lamberts at projector Central are using the highest possible lamp mode for those calculations. Each lamp can be higher or lower just based upon standard allowances for manufacturing fluctuations. Also your throw distance room conditions and screen material have an effect on how many foot Lamberts actually show up on your screen so really foot Lamberts are just a guide not an absolute. Digital Cinema mode places a filter in front to achieve the highest possible percentage of the DCP 3 color space so you are likely getting less than 1300 lumens with the filter in place and I still think you can achieve great HDR results in that mode depending upon your room conditions throw distance and screen material.

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post #3506 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 07:53 AM
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Maybe things have changed, but I seem to recall in years past, projectors kept the cooling fan running for several minutes after turning the bulb off. I've been running my 6050 in Eco (low) so far and the fan turns off with the bulb. I go to Standby and immediately to Off. I presume if it needs further cooling, the fan would stay on. Or, do I need to leave it in Standby for a few minutes to cool off? Thanks.

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post #3507 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 07:57 AM
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Maybe things have changed, but I seem to recall in years past, projectors kept the cooling fan running for several minutes after turning the bulb off. I've been running my 6050 in Eco (low) so far and the fan turns off with the bulb. I go to Standby and immediately to Off. I presume if it needs further cooling, the fan would stay on. Or, do I need to leave it in Standby for a few minutes to cool off? Thanks.
I have been running my 6050 in High lamp mode using a digital cinema filter for up to eight hours at a time and my projector turns off within seconds of me shutting it down and I have been doing so since early May and I have not experienced any negative effects. My 6500 UB projector from Epson made Circa 2009 definitely took longer to cool down after I shut the projector off and the fan would still be running. I have to assume that it cools down the projector while I'm watching a movie which is why and high lamp mode the fan sounds a bit louder.

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post #3508 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 08:13 AM
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Yes the foot Lamberts at projector Central are using the highest possible lamp mode for those calculations. Each lamp can be higher or lower just based upon standard allowances for manufacturing fluctuations. Also your throw distance room conditions and screen material have an effect on how many foot Lamberts actually show up on your screen so really foot Lamberts are just a guide not an absolute. Digital Cinema mode places a filter in front to achieve the highest possible percentage of the DCP 3 color space so you are likely getting less than 1300 lumens with the filter in place and I still think you can achieve great HDR results in that mode depending upon your room conditions throw distance and screen material.

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Wondering about Seymour Center Stage UF (0.8 tested gain) vs XD (.094 tested gain) with about 26fL vs 30fL. If that's in High mode, guess I should go with the higher gain with hopes of running at Low or Medium bulb to keep fan noise down & extend bulb life. Thanks.

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post #3509 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BIC2 View Post
Wondering about Seymour Center Stage UF (0.8 tested gain) vs XD (.094 tested gain) with about 26fL vs 30fL. If that's in High mode, guess I should go with the higher gain with hopes of running at Low or Medium bulb to keep fan noise down & extend bulb life. Thanks.
I find I can watch all SDR content in ECO. which still makes up 60% of my viewing content. For HDR I use Digital Cinema and High lamp. Which means am using the lamp at an average of Medium lamp. I would go with the slightly higher gain screen and see what lamp settings are best to your eyes once the screen is set up. You got a replacement lamp with the 6050. Replacement lamps are also fairly inexpensive.

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post #3510 of 3908 Old 09-19-2019, 08:38 AM
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Hi guys,
Can someone explain how the blanking function works on the 6050?
Is it extensive enough to mask out the overspill when watching a 2.35:1 AR?
I will likely be seeing a demo within the next week or so.
Thanks.

Anil
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