THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #991 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post
Those pics look beautiful!!! I’ve always wanted to try a professional calibration but I have two big fears. First is that I won’t like it and I’ll offend the calibrator. Lol. Second is that something will go wrong with my projector and I’ll have to replace and then the calibration is gone. Money down the drain.

On your calibration, did the person calibrate your 4K HDR movie settings on Digital Cinema? Did it really make that much of a difference compared to the settings you already dialed in yourself?

I believe my projector is throwing somewhere around 20-22ft. My theater room is completely light controlled in a basement with no ambient light. I even have part of the side walls painted black to try and help with the picture not reflecting too much light. I have a very basic Elite Screens Cinewhite 1.1 gain screen. I bought that screen back in 2013 when I first built the room. Thoughts?


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Yes he did two HDR setups for me, one in Cinema mode (not Digital Cinema) which is properly calibrated and the other Bright Cinema which is more like that of your OLED TV, very bright and highly colourful. Funny thing is that after he finished the son came in to see what was going on, of the two setups he prefers Bright Cinema but I prefer the other. The images I posted are all in the calibrated Cinema mode.

Your throw is basically double me as I’m throwing only 10.5Ft to my 100” 1.2 gain screen. You’ve went a long way to controlling the light in the room, if your ceiling is white I’d change it as this makes a huge difference.

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post #992 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
[

You taught me more about lumens, color and lamp/laser technology in one post then 10 years really exploring this projector and home theater hobby. Thank you once again for taking the time to break it down in a way I could easily understand. You have a great way of explaining complex things in a simple way. It truly is a gift. Would you happen to be a professor? Just curious thanks again. Laser will be the game change for HDR in a projector but the cost will be prohibitive until more people give up their televisions and use a projector so quantity can help reduce individual acquisition cost.
Wow, thanks! I'm not a professor, but I studied engineering in college and went on to practice patent law for a bit, and of course I'm an A/V hobbyist.

The concepts of lumens, lux, nits, and foot-lamberts are not that complicated, but the units are very confusing. All you need to remember is that foot-lamberts is lumens divided by square feet, and 1 foot-lambert = 3.46 nits = 10.764 lux. You then multiply by screen gain to get your final brightness.

So on a 100" (which works out to 29.7 sqft) 1.0-gain screen, a 2600-lumen projector (like the 5050UB) will produce an image with brightness as high as 87.54 foot lamberts (2600/29.7) or about 300 nits. A .9 gain would reduce that brightness by 10% (to around 79 foot-lamberts / 270 nits), and a 1.3 gain screen would increase brightness (to 114 foot-lamberts or 390 nits). Real-world figures are usually lower from generous specs, lamp aging, and light fall-off from the zoom lens.

Lux is used mostly on equipment and not in specifications/standards you'll encounter.

As much as I like using the SI system, I find it easier just to use foot-lamberts and feet when doing calculations.

Since we usually measure screen size in diagonal linear inches and not square feet, estimating brightness from a projector's lumen output is not intuitive (the same projector will be less than half as bright on a 150" screen as on a 100" screen).

I may not be totally correct about DCI-P3 requiring more light filtering, but that seems to be the explanation for the filter cutting so much light, if that's accurate.
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post #993 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rustolemite View Post
Absolutely same chassis and mounting pattern as the 5040. Unscrew 5040 and pop on the 5050. Sit back and enjoy the show.

Just wanted to say that since I game alot on my Xbox One X, that the improvement with the 5050 was well worth the cost of the upgrade.
The upgraded HDR was enough to put me over the edge but you saying this (As I had infinite problems with the Linker trying to get around the shortcomings in that dept of the 5040) about the Xbox One X upgrade definitely solidified my decision to upgrade.

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post #994 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 04:05 PM
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Have a question from those that are using the 5050, I have my 5050 set on Dynamic, and when I switch between inputs the initial picture is dim and then brightens up.
This happens when switching between my Nvidia Shield, Dish and PC.
Also when using the Dish DVR when I access the channel guide the picture dims then brightens it also does this then I'm using the Shield, if I leave an app and go the the home screen it dims then brightens.

If I switch to Bright Cinema I don't have these problems, so is this just something to do with using Dynamic?
Any help would be great.

Thanks

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post #995 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rustolemite View Post
Have a question from those that are using the 5050, I have my 5050 set on Dynamic, and when I switch between inputs the initial picture is dim and then brightens up.
This happens when switching between my Nvidia Shield, Dish and PC.
Also when using the Dish DVR when I access the channel guide the picture dims then brightens it also does this then I'm using the Shield, if I leave an app and go the the home screen it dims then brightens.

If I switch to Bright Cinema I don't have these problems, so is this just something to do with using Dynamic?
Any help would be great.

Thanks
I think you are just noticing the Auto Iris in action. In Bright Cinema and Dynamic the Auto Iris is engaged and set to High Speed so I am unsure as to why you are noticing it more with Dynamic. The iris adjusts the brightness based upon the content you are watching so my guess is that you notice it more in Dynamic based upon the switching of apps because of the information the projector is receiving and when watching movies using Bright Cinema it goes unnoticed except for at the beginning when studio branding is displayed quickly and maybe again during end credits you may notice it. Some people are more prone to seeing that dimming and brightening then others. This is why some people choose to turn the Auto Iris off no matter the picture mode being used. Natural does not engage the auto Iris at all. It is turned off. Maybe you would find that mode more pleasing to your eyes. The Auto Iris is functioning as intended.
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post #996 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
I think you are just noticing the Auto Iris in action. In Bright Cinema and Dynamic the Auto Iris is engaged and set to High Speed so I am unsure as to why you are noticing it more with Dynamic. The iris adjusts the brightness based upon the content you are watching so my guess is that you notice it more in Dynamic based upon the switching of apps because of the information the projector is receiving and when watching movies using Bright Cinema it goes unnoticed except for at the beginning when studio branding is displayed quickly and maybe again during end credits you may notice it. Some people are more prone to seeing that dimming and brightening then others. This is why some people choose to turn the Auto Iris off no matter the picture mode being used. Natural does not engage the auto Iris at all. It is turned off. Maybe you would find that mode more pleasing to your eyes. The Auto Iris is functioning as intended.
Turning off Auto Iris fixed the problem, thanks for the help. I know most aren't using Dynamic but have found that for me and my screen and setup it seems to give the best picture.
Thank you again for your input.

Thanks.

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post #997 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rustolemite View Post
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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
I think you are just noticing the Auto Iris in action. In Bright Cinema and Dynamic the Auto Iris is engaged and set to High Speed so I am unsure as to why you are noticing it more with Dynamic. The iris adjusts the brightness based upon the content you are watching so my guess is that you notice it more in Dynamic based upon the switching of apps because of the information the projector is receiving and when watching movies using Bright Cinema it goes unnoticed except for at the beginning when studio branding is displayed quickly and maybe again during end credits you may notice it. Some people are more prone to seeing that dimming and brightening then others. This is why some people choose to turn the Auto Iris off no matter the picture mode being used. Natural does not engage the auto Iris at all. It is turned off. Maybe you would find that mode more pleasing to your eyes. The Auto Iris is functioning as intended.
Turning off Auto Iris fixed the problem, thanks for the help. I know most aren't using Dynamic but have found that for me and my screen and setup it seems to give the best picture.
Thank you again for your input.[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG][IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]

Thanks.
Very welcome. Glad that worked for you.
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post #998 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 06:51 PM
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I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.

I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.

Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.

I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated?

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post #999 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 07:23 PM
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Wow, thanks! I'm not a professor, but I studied engineering in college and went on to practice patent law for a bit, and of course I'm an A/V hobbyist.

The concepts of lumens, lux, nits, and foot-lamberts are not that complicated, but the units are very confusing. All you need to remember is that foot-lamberts is lumens divided by square feet, and 1 foot-lambert = 3.46 nits = 10.764 lux. You then multiply by screen gain to get your final brightness.

So on a 100" (which works out to 29.7 sqft) 1.0-gain screen, a 2600-lumen projector (like the 5050UB) will produce an image with brightness as high as 87.54 foot lamberts (2600/29.7) or about 300 nits. A .9 gain would reduce that brightness by 10% (to around 79 foot-lamberts / 270 nits), and a 1.3 gain screen would increase brightness (to 114 foot-lamberts or 390 nits). Real-world figures are usually lower from generous specs, lamp aging, and light fall-off from the zoom lens.

Lux is used mostly on equipment and not in specifications/standards you'll encounter.

As much as I like using the SI system, I find it easier just to use foot-lamberts and feet when doing calculations.

Since we usually measure screen size in diagonal linear inches and not square feet, estimating brightness from a projector's lumen output is not intuitive (the same projector will be less than half as bright on a 150" screen as on a 100" screen).

I may not be totally correct about DCI-P3 requiring more light filtering, but that seems to be the explanation for the filter cutting so much light, if that's accurate.
Oh she’s a bright one alright. Like I said Gordon the pro who calibrated mine gave me two HDR modes, one calibrated and the other a Bright mode similar to that of an OLED (well sort of), the original setup he did I couldn’t deal with it was seriously burn the eye out of your head in 15 minutes, this level of brightness in a normal living room with white walls and ceiling from a 65” is fine but in a pitch black room with black walls and ceiling on a 100” screen was way over the top so he toned it down quite a bit, it’s still super bright and very vibrant just not as intense.

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post #1000 of 2399 Old 05-11-2019, 09:34 PM
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That’s a really good point! I think if I didn’t have the Panasonic with the luminance slider that I probably would be more impressed overall with the HDR improvement on the 5050. It just worked so damn good that by the time I upped the hdr slider on the 5050, I had to back it down on my Panasonic to 0 again and I feel like I just ended up where I was before with my 5040. Lol. You’re absolutely right though about how the Panasonic could only help 4K discs and some streaming apps. Anything else would lose that extra HDR brightness. It is nice to have that available now for any HDR source including games.

I will say that I think I’ve noticed that the picture is overall a little crisper. I think a major factor for that is when Epson sent me a replacement 5050 and the focus was leaps and bounds better than the first 5050 I had. See what I did there :-) Seriously though, I think getting a perfectly or close to perfectly focused projector makes all the difference too. I was very disappointed with my first 5050. But as usual, Epson was amazingly helpful and quick to send me a replacement.

I know there’s more tweaking I have to do before I can give my final judgement on the Epson 5050. If I had to rate the 5040 I would give it a solid 8. Right now I would give the 5050 a well deserved 9. We’ll see though. That could go up even more once I get this sucker dialed in for HDR movies and gaming.


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What does the panasonic add if you have a 5050? Worth it?
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post #1001 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 12:43 AM
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What does the panasonic add if you have a 5050? Worth it?
The Panasonic BluRay Player, not sure as to which model this feature starts but it’s their auto tonal mapping for HDR effectively doing what the latest 4K JVCs are offering.

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post #1002 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:10 AM
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What does the panasonic add if you have a 5050? Worth it?


It can add even more brightness to an HDR picture but with the new HDR slider built into the 5050, I don’t personally find it as necessary to have. I keep the Panasonic luminance adjustment at 0 now with the 5050.


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post #1003 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Solarium View Post
Hmm, makes me think of getting a refurb 5040UB right now for $1150, then upgrade again 2 years later to something better. The difference doesn't sound like THAT much.


I can say after owning both that the 5050 does not warrant an almost extra $2,000 price difference. $500-$700 yes. Maybe even a $1,000 but even that is pushing it. $2,000? I don’t believe it’s worth it. Maybe if you’re a gamer and you really really want 4K HDR Gaming but outside of that, i don’t think it’s worth it. Unless you have that extra money burning a hole in your pocket!!! Lol


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post #1004 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:43 AM
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@JewDaddy will try ur settings for ps4 hdr gameplay.. hdr slider is such an interesting option.. because in game video brightness option can help or over brighten image i found myself toning down hdr to a 9 or 10... I could tell when sun beeming of an oiler tank in blackout was overly bright.. but then game light output looked to dim... Still figuring things out i guess

That’s been my struggle! And every games HDR integration seems to be different. There’s not just one universal setting in game that you know where to set. I do like how some games give you a picture to reference while you adjust the slider. Assassins creed Odyssey and the 3 Remaster allow you to do that. I’ve found for me personally and the settings I use that the HDR Slider setting in the Epson is best at 5. If you can adjust your picture settings accordingly, 5 works really good with games and movies. I’m sure after more tweaking and calibrating I’ll change it again.



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post #1005 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Luminated67 View Post
Yes he did two HDR setups for me, one in Cinema mode (not Digital Cinema) which is properly calibrated and the other Bright Cinema which is more like that of your OLED TV, very bright and highly colourful. Funny thing is that after he finished the son came in to see what was going on, of the two setups he prefers Bright Cinema but I prefer the other. The images I posted are all in the calibrated Cinema mode.



Your throw is basically double me as I’m throwing only 10.5Ft to my 100” 1.2 gain screen. You’ve went a long way to controlling the light in the room, if your ceiling is white I’d change it as this makes a huge difference.


That’s really good to hear. I assumed that most calibrators choose the most accurate picture settings which tend to be on the dim side and then you as the customer have to just live with it. That would be nice to have two different viewing experiences calibrated. One brighter and one more accurate.

I’ve wondered if I would benefit from getting my projector mounted closer to the screen instead of having it back so far. Does it improve the image quality?

I’ll post some pics of my theater room setup. I have black ceiling tiles in my room which I noticed helped a lot with light reflection.


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post #1006 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Luminated67 View Post
Yes he did two HDR setups for me, one in Cinema mode (not Digital Cinema) which is properly calibrated and the other Bright Cinema which is more like that of your OLED TV, very bright and highly colourful. Funny thing is that after he finished the son came in to see what was going on, of the two setups he prefers Bright Cinema but I prefer the other. The images I posted are all in the calibrated Cinema mode.



Your throw is basically double me as I’m throwing only 10.5Ft to my 100” 1.2 gain screen. You’ve went a long way to controlling the light in the room, if your ceiling is white I’d change it as this makes a huge difference.


That’s really good to hear. I assumed that most calibrators choose the most accurate picture settings which tend to be on the dim side and then you as the customer have to just live with it. That would be nice to have two different viewing experiences calibrated. One brighter and one more accurate.

I’ve wondered if I would benefit from getting my projector mounted closer to the screen instead of having it back so far. Does it improve the image quality?

I’ll post some pics of my theater room setup. I have black ceiling tiles in my room which I noticed helped a lot with light reflection.


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Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
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post #1007 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Luminated67 View Post
The Panasonic BluRay Player, not sure as to which model this feature starts but it’s their auto tonal mapping for HDR effectively doing what the latest 4K JVCs are offering.
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It can add even more brightness to an HDR picture but with the new HDR slider built into the 5050, I don’t personally find it as necessary to have. I keep the Panasonic luminance adjustment at 0 now with the 5050.

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But Jewdaddy, per Luminated, besides the slider on the Panasonic, isn't its ability to automatically set an HDR range something that the Epson can't do and that helps the picture a bunch?
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But Jewdaddy, per Luminated, besides the slider on the Panasonic, isn't its ability to automatically set an HDR range something that the Epson can't do and that helps the picture a bunch?


Go on YouTube and search Panasonic HDR optimizer. HDTV test with Vincent has several in depth videos on the feature and shows you how it tone maps to a specific panel.

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post #1009 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 06:54 AM
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Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)?

Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?

What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
from that distance? How does that affect light output?

Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me.
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post #1010 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 07:30 AM
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Go on YouTube and search Panasonic HDR optimizer. HDTV test with Vincent has several in depth videos on the feature and shows you how it tone maps to a specific panel.
Thanks. I just watched a couple of those videos and I understand the HDR optimizer, but some folks on here have referred to the player as having some sort of HDR slider. Are they just referring to the optimizer? If so, that seems like a very different feature than what Epson has included on their projector.

BTW, Vincent made it sound like the UB 820 does not include settings for projectors in the HDR optimizer. If that's true, what settings are people using for the Epson?
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post #1011 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 07:34 AM
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Thanks. I just watched a couple of those videos and I understand the HDR optimizer, but some folks on here have referred to the player as having some sort of HDR slider. Are they just referring to the optimizer? If so, that seems like a very different feature than what Epson has included on their projector.



BTW, Vincent made it sound like the UB 820 does not include settings for projectors in the HDR optimizer. If that's true, what settings are people using for the Epson?


It does include projector setting. Don’t know when his video was made but I had the same though. Basic luminance LCD/ Projector is a setting as I use the UB-820


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post #1012 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 09:03 AM
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Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)?

Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?

What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
from that distance? How does that affect light output?

Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
Here is a very basic discussion of throw distance and how it affects light output and picture quality.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...1226740?page=2
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post #1013 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Viche View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)?

Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?

What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
from that distance? How does that affect light output?

Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
I knew I had saved an article about this sorry if I confused anything but this article does a really good job explaining picture quality, Zoom, and light output.

https://www.projectorreviews.com/art...row-distances/
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post #1014 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viche View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)?

Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?

What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
from that distance? How does that affect light output?

Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
Last one I swear LOL I am a bit of a tech nerd who lacks the knowledge and my wife would say intelligence LOL to fully understand the nuances so I do read a lot and I save a lot of articles.

https://www.benq.com/en-us/knowledge...ss-lumens.html
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post #1015 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viche View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CallingMrBenzo View Post
Go on YouTube and search Panasonic HDR optimizer. HDTV test with Vincent has several in depth videos on the feature and shows you how it tone maps to a specific panel.
Thanks. I just watched a couple of those videos and I understand the HDR optimizer, but some folks on here have referred to the player as having some sort of HDR slider. Are they just referring to the optimizer? If so, that seems like a very different feature than what Epson has included on their projector.

BTW, Vincent made it sound like the UB 820 does not include settings for projectors in the HDR optimizer. If that's true, what settings are people using for the Epson?
The Panasonic ub820 has a low light LCD / projector setting. That is just for letting the UHD player know what kind of display you're utilizing so it has a basic understanding of how many nits your display is capable of producing around 300 for most projectors. There is also separately the HDR Optimizer on the ub820 which to my understanding is actually then reading the metadata from the disk and adjusting the brightness for your particular display in real time during that movie so there isn't a lack of detail in spectral highlights and there is not a crush in your Shadow details. At least that is the concept. The third item similar to what the Epson 5050 does with their HDR slider is there an actual slider for high dynamic range in the sub menus for HDR so you can brighten it or dim it according to your own particular preference. I certainly do you think there is a great benefit in terms of picture quality and fine-tuning by still utilizing the Panasonic 820. A Panasonic 820 solely for this performance and some apps that Panasonic supports such as Netflix paired with a Epson 5040 can get close to the performance of the Epson 5050 although I still maintain that the Epson 5050 has better details better resolution and better sharpness then the 50 40. The 5050 also gives you the ability for really amazing HDR no matter what source you are using while pairing it with the Panasonic 820 and the Epson 5040 you are limited to discs and app supported by Panasonic. I hope that helps clarify a little bit at least.
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post #1016 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 02:49 PM
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With a 92" screen and 9 feet distance, will that suffice for this pj?
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post #1017 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astrobrooks76 View Post
I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.

I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.

Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.

I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]
This could just be motion blur from the LCD. Some people prefer DLP for crisper motion. LCoS are supposedly better, but my Sony has significant motion blur with Black Frame Insertion turned off.
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post #1018 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:32 PM
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From my own experience (as well as others in the 5040UB/6040UB thread) using HarperVision settings on 5040UB makes HDR look better than any of the HDR options provided by Epson. By "look better", I mean it is like getting a different projector. It makes HDR content look bright enough in Digital Cinema mode (with P3 filter), and highlights, mid-tones, and shadows all look great. Colors in WCG HDR video look a lot better once P3 filter is engaged.

SDR/2020 from UB820 can look even better than HarperVision, but this player cannot perform tone-mapping for other HDMI sources. With HarperVision I no longer have any issues with watching iTunes 4K HDR movies on my Apple TV 4K. They look fantastic.

Has anyone had a chance to compare 5040UB/6040UB HDR with HarperVision to 5050UB/6050UB HDR?

Last edited by tom0; 05-12-2019 at 04:38 PM.
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post #1019 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:37 PM
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From my own experience (as well as others in the 5040UB/6040UB thread) using HarperVision settings on 5040UB makes HDR look better than any of the HDR options provided by Epson. By "look better", I mean it is like getting a different projector. It makes HDR content look bright enough in Digital Cinema mode (with P3 filter), and highlights, mid-tones, and shadows all look great. Colors in WCG HDR video look a lot better once P3 filter is engaged.



Has anyone had a chance to compare 5040UB/6040UB HDR with HarperVision to 5050UB/6050UB HDR?


When you say Harpervision are you talking about how he disables HDR but changes the color to BT2020? If that’s what you’re talking about, I remember trying his settings and being very disappointed because I thought everything just looked washed out compared to the settings I had been using. Maybe I should give it another try on the 5050


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post #1020 of 2399 Old 05-12-2019, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by astrobrooks76 View Post
I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.

Quote:
I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.

Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.

I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexBPM View Post
I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated?

I'll be watching for any comments on this, this too would be a deal breaker for me!

I can't believe manufactures still do this "soap opera" thing, are there people who actually like it? Anytime I've been at someones house and I see it on, I ask and the response is they don't see it or understand what I'm talking about.

I have to believe this will not be an issue, I can't imaging Epson not giving an option to totally disable it.
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