THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread - Page 92 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2731 of 4404 Old 08-18-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggydeen View Post
Just finished another convergence round. Took the PJ of the shelf and put it on a table right in front of the screen.

Played some colourfull youtube vids for at least 45min. Then I started the alignment.

Did all the things according to the Epson website. (https://files.support.epson.com/doci..._aligning.html)

Sadly, the alignment is way off. It's just too blurry to make it one straight white line. The following happens:

When adjusting the red line there are multiple rows of pixels being affected (if that makes sense). You can clearly see this in the pictures (see attachment). In one of the pictures, the yellow square has a line of green in it (this should be yellow when perfectly aligned with red). But the red is already pouring out on top. So, when I'm lining up the red with the green to make it yellow the red is even pouring out more.

The problem seems to be that when shifting the red or blue lines multiple rows of pixels are affected. This way I can never perfectly align all three without some purple/blue-ish bleed.

Not sure if I'm doing something wrong but the process seems pretty straight forward. Although may take some time to get them perfectly aligned.

But I still have another problem that does not seem to be related to convergence. The ^ symbol still has a very blurry left side while the right side seems to be more of a straight line (although also somewhat blurry).

How can the left side be totally blurry and pixelated while the right side is completely different? Seems like the lens is projecting a little sideways or something if that makes sense. Although, when looking at the pictures taken with my phone you can clearly see that there is some green/blue bleed causing this pixelation. So might be a convergence problem.

Did multiple setups placing the projector in different angles and using lensshift but that does not help.
I bet Epson will just send you a new projector once you show them the pics. Too bad we will never figure out what actually caused the problem. i'd ask them anyway though.
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post #2732 of 4404 Old 08-18-2019, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Porknz View Post
If I had regular 2x6's or something like that, I wouldn't woy about it. I'm still worried about how to put a lag into an i-joist. I keep watching videos on ways to build frame like structures between two i-joists, but I don't want a 4' x 4' hole in my ceiling either.
Standard I-joist have a 1 1/2h x 2 1/2w top and bottom of wood with a mitered/glued particle board vertical. Align your base plate with the joist so you're not drilling on center and drill slightly undersized holes for your lags no more than 3/4 inch right into the joist, then screw them in no more than 1 inch and you'll be good. You could also put a shot of glue in each hole and on the lag threads before you screw them in. You might have to move your mount forward or back slightly to be centered on a joist, but you shouldn't need to make a big hole in your drywall to build a frame....unless your joists' run parallel with your room and you need a structure to center your mount with your room and screen. Good Luck.

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post #2733 of 4404 Old 08-18-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Porknz View Post
If I had regular 2x6's or something like that, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm still worried about how to put a lag into an i-joist. I keep watching videos on ways to build frame like structures between two i-joists, but I don't want a 4' x 4' hole in my ceiling either.
You have drywall attached to the i-joists?

Take a 3/4in piece of pine shelving or plywood, and cut it to make a mounting plate ~18in x ~12in or more (paint to colour of choice) so that it attaches to at least two joists with at least two ~3in wood screws per joist, and then attach your projector mount to the wood plate with 3/4in wood lag screws. The wooden plate goes on the ceiling and you attach to the joists through the drywall so there's no need to cut the drywall.

I've done this with two projector mounts and it's dead simple and very safe because you have assured attachment to the centre of the joists and the wood plate gives you complete freedom to position the projector.
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post #2734 of 4404 Old 08-18-2019, 09:22 PM
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Just read the Chief 4000/4500 installation instructions. I won't have the mount for a few more days, so I'm asking a bit blind. They want 4 lag bolts, 2 each on two different ceiling joists, 4" apart. Apparently, Epson doesn't know ceiling joists are 16" apart. Guess the other two can be drywall anchors. In the picture below, you are looking from the front to the back of the theater. Lens will be facing towards you. The 2x6 with the receptacles is dead center, side to side.

The first bracket mount picture would be the stronger of the two options shown, but HDMI cable in orange raceway would not line up to go down 3 ft pipe (but maybe it will jog over anyway, can't tell from instructions). The second picture would put HDMI cable over the down-rod pipe, but wouldn't be as strong. I would likely take strength over aesthetics, but it would be nice to run HDMI (and electrical) cable through pipe given the 3 ft length. Any thoughts? Thanks.



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post #2735 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 07:56 AM
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With no drywall, you have the luxury of several good options. BTW, I like your HDMI conduit...smart move. It should be easy for you to cut a couple of pieces of wood and screw them to the crossmember adjoining the joists and your load will be nicely spread across several joists. If you do it so that you have a solid mounting area, say 6 x 6 where your picture shows your "X" then you can put up your drywall and attach your mounting plate right through the drywall where "x" marks the spot. You can use a cone shaped receptacle in the drywall for your power cord and HDMI and it should be strong functional and look nice. FWIW, running power cords and HDMI down mounting pipes because it can necessitate tight bends of the HDMI where it exits the pipe and can get unnecessarily difficult to change power cords or HDMIs when fished down a mounting pipe. Looks good.
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post #2736 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JonfromCB View Post
With no drywall, you have the luxury of several good options. BTW, I like your HDMI conduit...smart move. It should be easy for you to cut a couple of pieces of wood and screw them to the crossmember adjoining the joists and your load will be nicely spread across several joists. If you do it so that you have a solid mounting area, say 6 x 6 where your picture shows your "X" then you can put up your drywall and attach your mounting plate right through the drywall where "x" marks the spot. You can use a cone shaped receptacle in the drywall for your power cord and HDMI and it should be strong functional and look nice. FWIW, running power cords and HDMI down mounting pipes because it can necessitate tight bends of the HDMI where it exits the pipe and can get unnecessarily difficult to change power cords or HDMIs when fished down a mounting pipe. Looks good.
Sorry, my bad. Thought I was on my build thread where people would know I have drywall up. Here's what it looks like now. Ready to go operational in the next few weeks. Good point on running HDMI down pipe. Guess I'll skip that.

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post #2737 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 09:55 AM
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Just reading the last couple of pages and wanted to chime in on the 6050 and its alignment woes. After following JVC's release of their new lineup it's painfully apparent that one of the biggest problems plaguing projectors is shipping. The 6050 in question could have left Epson in perfect shape, but who knows what happened to it before it arrived at the doorstep. JVC America verified each unit prior to shipping, yet some units arrived with the optical block knocked loose which isn't something you just miss (and takes a lot of force to do). Food for thought before throwing Epson under the bus.

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post #2738 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 11:11 AM
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Well heck, finally ready to buy and the price just went up $300. Anyone have any insight as to the next Epson sale?
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post #2739 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 12:00 PM
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Well heck, finally ready to buy and the price just went up $300. Anyone have any insight as to the next Epson sale?
You might open a chat with a place like Crutchfield and just ask if they would honor the $300 discount...couldn't hurt to ask.

Epson HC5050UB | 110" DEA Infinity Edge FF | Marantz NR-1607 | Kodi HTPC | Panasonic DP-UB820 | PS4 Pro
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post #2740 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 12:05 PM
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Yeah thanks, tried that , no go, Epson MAP.
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post #2741 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 04:02 PM
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Followup, interestingly right now Amazon has the ub and the ube for the same price, no other vendors appear to have that which is probably a glitch. Gotta pay tax with them tho dangit.
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post #2742 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post
Just reading the last couple of pages and wanted to chime in on the 6050 and its alignment woes. After following JVC's release of their new lineup it's painfully apparent that one of the biggest problems plaguing projectors is shipping. The 6050 in question could have left Epson in perfect shape, but who knows what happened to it before it arrived at the doorstep. JVC America verified each unit prior to shipping, yet some units arrived with the optical block knocked loose which isn't something you just miss (and takes a lot of force to do). Food for thought before throwing Epson under the bus.
Finally someone who thinks like me. I have been saying this for YEARS and always seem to be in the minority. Camera equipment, HT gear, other electronics, etc. you name it - anything fragile and/or with tight tolerances sensitive to shock, you don't want it shipped in a conventional manner. People blame the manufacturer for what is likely 99% of the time shipping damage. I often point people to videos of distribution/sorting centers from the major shipping companies, they are ROUGH. There are UPS employees on other forums who have told stories that the best way to unclog a package jam on the conveyor belt is to find a package just the right size, and throw it at the jam. Then it goes in a truck, bounces around, falls over, who knows. Then the delivery courier throws it over your fence and it lands on your concrete step - delivered. That "fragile" sticker you stuck to the box is ignored 100% of the time by everyone who has a package quota to meet.

I've spent decades on camera forums where people are furious that when they send their gear in for repair, the manufacturer claims "impact damage" - guess what, it probably does have it and it very likely got it on the way there. I can sympathize with the customer from the point of view that they don't want to be responsible for the damage, but it's not fair for the manufacturer to be responsible for it either, and the shipping company (who is likely responsible), well good luck getting them to own up to it especially if they didn't pack it (which is also somewhat reasonable). It's a lose-lose-lose scenario.

I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.

I also remember a story ages ago on this very forum I believe, where a certain brand of amplifier was always failing on people. After investigation, they found that every pallet of units was being dropped from the loading dock onto the ground before going into a truck - causing the problems. They stopped doing that and there were no longer issues with the product.
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post #2743 of 4404 Old 08-19-2019, 07:20 PM
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Finally someone who thinks like me. I have been saying this for YEARS and always seem to be in the minority. Camera equipment, HT gear, other electronics, etc. you name it - anything fragile and/or with tight tolerances sensitive to shock, you don't want it shipped in a conventional manner. People blame the manufacturer for what is likely 99% of the time shipping damage. I often point people to videos of distribution/sorting centers from the major shipping companies, they are ROUGH. There are UPS employees on other forums who have told stories that the best way to unclog a package jam on the conveyor belt is to find a package just the right size, and throw it at the jam. Then it goes in a truck, bounces around, falls over, who knows. Then the delivery courier throws it over your fence and it lands on your concrete step - delivered. That "fragile" sticker you stuck to the box is ignored 100% of the time by everyone who has a package quota to meet.



I've spent decades on camera forums where people are furious that when they send their gear in for repair, the manufacturer claims "impact damage" - guess what, it probably does have it and it very likely got it on the way there. I can sympathize with the customer from the point of view that they don't want to be responsible for the damage, but it's not fair for the manufacturer to be responsible for it either, and the shipping company (who is likely responsible), well good luck getting them to own up to it especially if they didn't pack it (which is also somewhat reasonable). It's a lose-lose-lose scenario.



I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.



I also remember a story ages ago on this very forum I believe, where a certain brand of amplifier was always failing on people. After investigation, they found that every pallet of units was being dropped from the loading dock onto the ground before going into a truck - causing the problems. They stopped doing that and there were no longer issues with the product.
I absolutely believe this statement. My first two PB Ultra 16 subwoofers from SVS were DOA due to the amplifier being damaged. Spoke to Gary Yacoubian and he explained they had identified the issue with their shipping carrier who just wasn't equipped to haul and deliver such a massive subwoofer so they actually changed shippers for just the PB Ultra 16.

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post #2744 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 10:14 AM
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Question

Hey guys,

Looking into getting the 6050UB as an upgrade from UHD60. I have couple questions.

1. What are good places to get the PJ at a reasonable price and what price would you recommend?
2. What is the best resource for projector calibration. I have had projectors for more than 10 years but never did much of professional calibration and do not have time for a doctorate in audio video but am a tinkerer and tech savvy and can figure out things as long as it's basic or moderate enough.
3. Any suggestions specific to my situation:
a. 91 inch white screen and 10.5' throw distance.
b. Blacked out room for movies with some ambient light during the day for casual tv watching.
c. Applet TV 4k, Nvidia shield and Xbox One S for UHD blurays. Definitely would like to know if another dedicated player would extract more of PQ from the 6050ub compared to these players I already use.
4. Finally should I just spring for a professional calibration and consultation and what does that normally go for in the NE area?

Thanks for all your help. Been lurking on these forums for years and found a wealth of information.
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post #2745 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CanadaMark View Post
Finally someone who thinks like me. I have been saying this for YEARS and always seem to be in the minority. Camera equipment, HT gear, other electronics, etc. you name it - anything fragile and/or with tight tolerances sensitive to shock, you don't want it shipped in a conventional manner. People blame the manufacturer for what is likely 99% of the time shipping damage. I often point people to videos of distribution/sorting centers from the major shipping companies, they are ROUGH. There are UPS employees on other forums who have told stories that the best way to unclog a package jam on the conveyor belt is to find a package just the right size, and throw it at the jam. Then it goes in a truck, bounces around, falls over, who knows. Then the delivery courier throws it over your fence and it lands on your concrete step - delivered. That "fragile" sticker you stuck to the box is ignored 100% of the time by everyone who has a package quota to meet.

I've spent decades on camera forums where people are furious that when they send their gear in for repair, the manufacturer claims "impact damage" - guess what, it probably does have it and it very likely got it on the way there. I can sympathize with the customer from the point of view that they don't want to be responsible for the damage, but it's not fair for the manufacturer to be responsible for it either, and the shipping company (who is likely responsible), well good luck getting them to own up to it especially if they didn't pack it (which is also somewhat reasonable). It's a lose-lose-lose scenario.

I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.

I also remember a story ages ago on this very forum I believe, where a certain brand of amplifier was always failing on people. After investigation, they found that every pallet of units was being dropped from the loading dock onto the ground before going into a truck - causing the problems. They stopped doing that and there were no longer issues with the product.
If an item can be shipped by USPS and it is mechanically fragile to impact, I request the yellow SPECIAL HANDLING label. The cost is about $10, and I believe it to be worth this added expense. While sturdy and secure packing and padding may protect glass and other physically fragile objects, it often does not protect complex mechanical and optical devices against acceleration-deceleration events (dropping, falling down a conveyor belt, shifting atop a pile of packages on a truck, etc.) which can occur during the "normal" shipping process. Packages marked with this labeled are purportedly handled in a manner to avoid rough transport.
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post #2746 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by carmona View Post
If an item can be shipped by USPS and it is mechanically fragile to impact, I request the yellow SPECIAL HANDLING label. The cost is about $10, and I believe it to be worth this added expense. While sturdy and secure packing and padding may protect glass and other physically fragile objects, it often does not protect complex mechanical and optical devices against acceleration-deceleration events (dropping, falling down a conveyor belt, shifting atop a pile of packages on a truck, etc.) which can occur during the "normal" shipping process. Packages marked with this labeled are purportedly handled in a manner to avoid rough transport.
According to people who work for various carriers that I have talked to over the years, the "fragile" or "special handling" labels are ignored 99% of the time because they have package quotas to hit, and there is nothing that can be traced back to the individual employee should an item arrive damaged, so there is no accountability. It's unfortunate for sure, but not hard to believe these days. It doesn't mean they will purposely destroy your package, it just means it isn't likely to be treated any differently than a normal package despite the special labeling.

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post #2747 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CanadaMark View Post
According to people who work for various carriers that I have talked to over the years, the "fragile" or "special handling" labels are ignored 99% of the time because they have package quotas to hit, and there is nothing that can be traced back to the individual employee should an item arrive damaged, so there is no accountability. It's unfortunate for sure, but not hard to believe these days. It doesn't mean they will purposely destroy your package, it just means it isn't likely to be treated any differently than a normal package.
That's pretty sad! I'm none too thrilled with the Amazon delivery people since they switched to their own either. And that's because they have quotas to hit and they just don't care. I know my UPS driver by sight and he has always taken care of things delivered to me.

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post #2748 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by carmona View Post
If an item can be shipped by USPS and it is mechanically fragile to impact, I request the yellow SPECIAL HANDLING label. The cost is about $10, and I believe it to be worth this added expense. While sturdy and secure packing and padding may protect glass and other physically fragile objects, it often does not protect complex mechanical and optical devices against acceleration-deceleration events (dropping, falling down a conveyor belt, shifting atop a pile of packages on a truck, etc.) which can occur during the "normal" shipping process. Packages marked with this labeled are purportedly handled in a manner to avoid rough transport.
Interesting timing of this discussion:

I just received my refurbished 5050 today, to replace my defective 5050.

The refurb came in an Epson box with minimal-moderate packaging/cushioning. So, we'll see how this one does... Off to install, level, change initial settings, etc.
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How is the 5050/6050 for gaming? I have seen people reporting that the visual difference between eshift and native 4K is a lot more noticeable on 4K gaming than with video sources. Thanks

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post #2750 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 07:19 PM
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My apologies if I did not express myself correctly. I am in no way implying that fiber optic HDMI cables don’t work. I am simply stating that after having exhausted many possibilities, my particular setup only works reliably with standard HDMI cables.

If you take a look at my original post below, you will notice that I have tried many different methods trying to identify the problem.

It is also possible that the projector HDMI circuitry is the culprit, but I am going to try another Active HDMI cable from BJC to see if that makes a difference:



I will post my findings upon further testing.

Thanks to all!

THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...6&share_type=t


Update: Good news!

I have been testing the 40 foot BJC Active HDMI cable for several days and it has been working flawlessly on all inputs and sources with and without the AV receiver.

It is able to display full 4K 60HZ HDR 4:2:2 as well as every other signal with no issues whatsoever.

Very happy that I found a solution to this problem!
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post #2751 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 08:24 PM
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Update: Good news!

I have been testing the 40 foot BJC Active HDMI cable for several days and it has been working flawlessly on all inputs and sources with and without the AV receiver.

It is able to display full 4K 60HZ HDR 4:2:2 as well as every other signal with no issues whatsoever.

Very happy that I found a solution to this problem!
That is great news for you!!! You had been having such a difficult time finding a cable that worked. Now you can get back to enjoying your projector instead if being tech support for yourself. Enjoy!!

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post #2752 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 08:49 PM
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I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.
Maybe if you're buying from some mega-dealer. I'd guess your average AV retailer carries little stock of expensive items and most items are probably shipped to the dealer the same way online dealers ship to us. I just looked at Best Buy for the Epson 5050. It's not stocked at any of the several stores in Kansas City. Can ship to home or store. Either way, it's going to be shipped somehow as a single unit.
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post #2753 of 4404 Old 08-20-2019, 10:30 PM
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So you think you deserve a 6050 ? Interesting....I’m on my fourth 5050UB and I don’t deserve one.


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Fourth? Why so many?
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post #2754 of 4404 Old 08-21-2019, 04:07 AM
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Fourth? Why so many?


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post #2755 of 4404 Old 08-21-2019, 10:45 AM
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For the Epson 5050 in a room with poor light control during the day, mostly watching at night (but with white walls etc!) should I get a white screen, a grey, or a dark grey (high contrast) screen? Looking at Silver Ticket screens, and I don't want to get an ALR screen.
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post #2756 of 4404 Old 08-21-2019, 10:49 AM
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I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?

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post #2757 of 4404 Old 08-21-2019, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirius_basterd View Post
For the Epson 5050 in a room with poor light control during the day, mostly watching at night (but with white walls etc!) should I get a white screen, a grey, or a dark grey (high contrast) screen? Looking at Silver Ticket screens, and I don't want to get an ALR screen.
I demo'd a 6040 on the weekend and it was in a fairly small all-white painted room with low ceilings (ceiling white too). We had full light control though. Screen was white too (Grandview). It honestly looked stunning, tons of punch and blacks seemed like they couldn't get much deeper. I am sure if the room was covered in black velvet it would be a bit better but I really don't think you are going to be missing out too much by just putting in a white screen. Grey screens are an eye-sore when not in use in my opinion, which is an issue for some (subjective). For those of us without the luxury of a dedicated theater room and have to use the projector in a bonus room or main basement area, I think you'll be fine with white.
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post #2758 of 4404 Old 08-21-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post
I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?

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I suppose it all depends on if your source is pushing higher than 8 bit 4:2:0
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post #2759 of 4404 Old 08-21-2019, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post
I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?

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You should be using the projector display info from the menu. For a 60 hz signal test try watching HDR content from Netflix like The Highwaymen movie. Color depth should display 12 bit 4:2:2. Color format should display BT.2020 HDR10. When viewing the typical 4K disc through a UHD player it should be color depth 12 bit 4:4:4. Color format should display BT.2020 HDR10. 60HZ is also known as frames per second or FPS. If you get 60 HZ you can be assured your cable is capable of 18GBPS which is one of the main streaming differences between the 5040 and the 5050. Depending upon your streaming device and streaming service it might be 24FPS 30FPS OR 60FPS. not all devices or services stream in 60FPS. On my Roku Ultra player Netflix streams HDR content at 60FPS. same with Prime Video. VUDU 4K HDR streams at 24FPS which displays on the projector at 24 Hz. First pic is Vudu 4k HDR movie. Second pic is Netflix 4K HDR MOVIE. Third pic is 4K HDR disc. Now another thing is some streaming 4K movies don't include HDR DATA so they would just be formatted as SDR COLOR DATA. Not many but some.

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post #2760 of 4404 Old 08-21-2019, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post
I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?

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Yes, you could hook up a 1080p HDMI cable and get a picture so it is a good idea to check what your actual resolution is.

The projector settings menu should report what your resolution is.
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