THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 148 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4411 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eta1345 View Post
Here is a pic of the screen with the lights on bright and one where the lights are off. Not sure how some of yall get such good pics but it looks much better than the photo.
Don't feel too bad I still take horrible pictures LOL

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post #4412 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypres0099 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by longhornsk57 View Post
I am considering testing out this projector, but I do have one question.


I have the Optoma BC300 emitter and ZF2300 glasses. Since the PJ is RF 3D capable, I was wondering if these would work with it, or if i have to buy Epson RF glasses. I have 9 pairs of ZF2300 so this may be a deal breaker for me if I can't use them.
I too have been looking around for the best pair of 3D RF glasses compatible with the 5050ub. Ordered a pair of the epson version to try out.
I too have been looking for the holy grail of 3D glasses for my 5050 as well. It has come down to the Samsung or Epson. I just heard from a pro av store that Epson was discontinuing their 3D glasses and recommending Samsung glasses???!

I got both some Samsung and Epson coming so I will keep you guys posted on how it works out.
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post #4413 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypres0099 View Post
Ok, so I've hooked up my Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019 into the Yamaha V685 and then outputting to the 5050ub. Image processing is turned off on the receiver, so it should be passing through untouched.

I'm trying to figure out how to get the best source signal to the PJ before doing any calibrations or anything.

There are a fair number of settings on the Nvidia Shield for resolution, bit depth, whatever 4.2.0 is, refresh rate...

What are the best settings for using the Shield with the 5050ub?

Right now I have it set to 3840 x 2160 with 59.93hz 12 bit depth 4:2:2 Color Format 2020 (HDR Ready).

Should I be setting this manually?
Is there some auto feature that will change it based on the content being played?

If you are getting 12 bit 4:2:2, that sounds good to me. My guess is you have set this manually, not automatically/Recommended. For whatever reason, if I leave everything on Recommended, I get 10 bit. But, I can manually ramp that up to 12 bit.

There has been fairly extensive discussion of this very issue earlier in the thread. Search for my posts and/or NVIDIA settings within this thread to read the exchange of info on this issue. Enjoy!
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post #4414 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr bill View Post
If you are getting 12 bit 4:2:2, that sounds good to me. My guess is you have set this manually, not automatically/Recommended. For whatever reason, if I leave everything on Recommended, I get 10 bit. But, I can manually ramp that up to 12 bit.

There has been fairly extensive discussion of this very issue earlier in the thread. Search for my posts and/or NVIDIA settings within this thread to read the exchange of info on this issue. Enjoy!
Yeah, I did set it manually since I was getting washed out and blocky color with the auto setting. I also have the auto color switching enabled, so I'm not sure what happens when it switches me over to a 709 color space.

Curious if you've done any experimentation with enabling refresh rate switching in Plex. When you enable it, the screen will go blank for a few seconds while it switches frame rates, but I'm not sure if this will give a better experience than just keeping it in 59.93hz (even when watching a 24 fps movie).
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post #4415 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 07:14 PM
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Curious if you've done any experimentation with enabling refresh rate switching in Plex.

I haven't tried changing any Plex settings. I use Kodi to watch my movies on the 5050, Plex to watch movies remotely.
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post #4416 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longhornsk57 View Post
I am considering testing out this projector, but I do have one question.


I have the Optoma BC300 emitter and ZF2300 glasses. Since the PJ is RF 3D capable, I was wondering if these would work with it, or if i have to buy Epson RF glasses. I have 9 pairs of ZF2300 so this may be a deal breaker for me if I can't use them.
No the Optoma glasses won't work as they are a proprietary RF and need a vesa port on the projector. You need Bluetooth glass so in theory any universal Bluetooth glasses should work. Those glasses should be easy to sell because they should work with JVC's that have a vesa port.

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post #4417 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rekbones View Post
No the Optoma glasses won't work as they are a proprietary RF and need a vesa port on the projector. You need Bluetooth glass so in theory any universal Bluetooth glasses should work. Those glasses should be easy to sell because they should work with JVC's that have a vesa port.
Ok thanks, this is what I was looking for
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post #4418 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 08:20 PM
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Anyone have any compatibility issues with a Shield Pro and this projector? I'm trying to decide between it and a Roku ultimate.
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post #4419 of 5940 Old 11-19-2019, 08:25 PM
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If I'm connecting all my source components through a pre-pro can I expect the 6050 to display resolution, frame rate, and hdr status on the screen? The pre-pro I'm looking at doesn't have an OSD and I'm trying to gauge how much I'll miss it.
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post #4420 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 04:34 AM
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not sure what i did, but my relatively brand new projector (6050ub, 40 hrs) is all of a sudden behaving oddly, it dims when a scene goes from very bright to dark, and then it gradually gets brighter when the dark scene changes back to bright.

for example, at the beginning of oblivion, when tom cruise walks out to the chopper pad and then the scene cuts away to the movie title "oblivion" against a black background - as soon as the scene cuts away the screen becomes overly dark and "oblivion" doesn't come close to popping against the back background as it did before, it's as if there's a very dark filter over the letters.... and then when title scene cuts back to the bright scene with tom cruise in the chopper, the scene very slowly becomes brighter, very gradually, until it finally reaches its peak brightness.

that said, i'm sure this has been caused by one or more of the projector settings i experimented with tonight (i finally had a chance to spend some time with the pj tonight and played around with a bunch of settings), but for the life of me i can't figure out which setting is causing it, and resetting all of the settings to default doesn't seem to help... any thoughts on what might be causing this?

thanks in advance!
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post #4421 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by aeneas01 View Post
not sure what i did, but my relatively brand new projector (6050ub, 40 hrs) is all of a sudden behaving oddly, it dims when a scene goes from very bright to dark, and then it gradually gets brighter when the dark scene changes back to bright.

for example, at the beginning of oblivion, when tom cruise walks out to the chopper pad and then the scene cuts away to the movie title "oblivion" against a black background - as soon as the scene cuts away the screen becomes overly dark and "oblivion" doesn't come close to popping against the back background as it did before, it's as if there's a very dark filter over the letters.... and then when title scene cuts back to the bright scene with tom cruise in the chopper, the scene very slowly becomes brighter, very gradually, until it finally reaches its peak brightness.

that said, i'm sure this has been caused by one or more of the projector settings i experimented with tonight (i finally had a chance to spend some time with the pj tonight and played around with a bunch of settings), but for the life of me i can't figure out which setting is causing it, and resetting all of the settings to default doesn't seem to help... any thoughts on what might be causing this?

thanks in advance!
Sounds like the Auto Iris setting is what you were noticing. It is called "pumping" and some people notice it more than others. If it going to be noticable it would be so during scenes that change from dark to light generally speaking. Auto iris enhances contrast and black levels. You can go into the menu and turn the Auto Iris off and rewatch those scenes to see how much of a difference having it off makes to your contrast and black levels. Then you can adjust from there to a level where maybe you don't notice the pumping. My guess is you had the lamp in high and the auto Iris in high which would really create the pumping you saw. Honestly if you like the image the rest of the time and only noticed it on the couple scenes you might decide to live with it. There isn't anything wrong with the projector. The Auto Iris sounds like it is working as intended.

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post #4422 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 05:41 AM
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Guys forgive me for not reading the over 4,000 posts in this thread, but do you think the 5050 is loud enough to want a hush box for it? I’m going to run it on a 160” screen so it might need to go into high power mode for a screen that size. The other benefit of the hush box is it covers up the awful white color and saves me from shelling out another $1,000.

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post #4423 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown View Post
Guys forgive me for not reading the over 4,000 posts in this thread, but do you think the 5050 is loud enough to want a hush box for it? I’m going to run it on a 160” screen so it might need to go into high power mode for a screen that size. The other benefit of the hush box is it covers up the awful white color and saves me from shelling out another $1,000.
I would say hang it and test for yourself. Everybody's ears and level of annoyance is different. If you want to hide the white color anyway, it sounds like the hush box would accomplish both goals.

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post #4424 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 07:48 AM
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Yeah I should just bite the bullet and make one.

I know that hush boxes are pretty generic, but does anyone have a link to a hush box for this specific projector? With both cooling fans in front of the unit, I’m wondering if I should do anything different.

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post #4425 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 07:55 AM
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very much appreciated, makes a lot of sense, will take a look at this tonight!



Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Sounds like the Auto Iris setting is what you were noticing. It is called "pumping" and some people notice it more than others. If it going to be noticable it would be so during scenes that change from dark to light generally speaking. Auto iris enhances contrast and black levels. You can go into the menu and turn the Auto Iris off and rewatch those scenes to see how much of a difference having it off makes to your contrast and black levels. Then you can adjust from there to a level where maybe you don't notice the pumping. My guess is you had the lamp in high and the auto Iris in high which would really create the pumping you saw. Honestly if you like the image the rest of the time and only noticed it on the couple scenes you might decide to live with it. There isn't anything wrong with the projector. The Auto Iris sounds like it is working as intended.

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post #4426 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnus_CA View Post
Anyone have any compatibility issues with a Shield Pro and this projector? I'm trying to decide between it and a Roku ultimate.
Took a little tweaking of the settings, but my Shield TV Pro (2019) is working quite nicely now. Not 100% sure I have optimal settings yet, but it's doing the job. The remote can even power off the projector and av receiver through CEC. Haven't figured out how to get it to power on the projector yet though.
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post #4427 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 10:32 AM
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Okay having an odd problem with the 5050, this only happens once maybe every other week.
I will be watching the projector and it will auto shut off with the Blue Light blinking rapidly and the fan running a high speed. It does this for a minute or so then completely shuts down.
If I turn it back on it goes right back to the Blue Light and high fan and shuts off again. If I UNPLUG the projector that seems to fix everything.

And I know most would think its heat related but last night it did it only after being on for about 3 hours, I have had it on for a continuous 13 hours without this happening.
Just curious if anybody else has had anything like this happen.

Thanks

VIDEO: Epson 5050UB * SeymourAV CenterStage XD 137.7" * Samsung UBD-M9500 * Nvidia Shield * HTPC * Xbox OneX * URC MX-990
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post #4428 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 10:54 AM
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I have a particular issue that you guys might be able to address.
I need to concatenate two 25ft active high-speed HDMI cables. The first carries the output from an AppleTV to an HDMI audio extractor box. The video out from this passes into the second active HDMI cable, then on to the projector.
Will this setup cause issues with the signal to the projector?
Thanks for the help.

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Last edited by anilrao; 11-21-2019 at 07:54 AM. Reason: typo
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post #4429 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustolemite View Post
Okay having an odd problem with the 5050, this only happens once maybe every other week.
I will be watching the projector and it will auto shut off with the Blue Light blinking rapidly and the fan running a high speed. It does this for a minute or so then completely shuts down.
If I turn it back on it goes right back to the Blue Light and high fan and shuts off again. If I UNPLUG the projector that seems to fix everything.

And I know most would think its heat related but last night it did it only after being on for about 3 hours, I have had it on for a continuous 13 hours without this happening.
Just curious if anybody else has had anything like this happen.

Thanks

This just happened to me for the first time! And I just got it a few days ago. Shut off randomly. I didn't have to unplug it though, it stayed on when I pressed the power button. I was running it on medium power but maybe it got too hot?


EDIT: Mine is set up so the rear of the unit is close to the wall - I thought that was fine because the vents are in the front but it looks like the manual says it has to be at least 7.9" from any walls.
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post #4430 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirius_basterd View Post
This just happened to me for the first time! And I just got it a few days ago. Shut off randomly. I didn't have to unplug it though, it stayed on when I pressed the power button. I was running it on medium power but maybe it got too hot?


EDIT: Mine is set up so the rear of the unit is close to the wall - I thought that was fine because the vents are in the front but it looks like the manual says it has to be at least 7.9" from any walls.
I have run mine for over 12 hours straight and never had the problem.. Still not sure what the problem can be...

VIDEO: Epson 5050UB * SeymourAV CenterStage XD 137.7" * Samsung UBD-M9500 * Nvidia Shield * HTPC * Xbox OneX * URC MX-990
AUDIO: Yamaha RX-A3080
SPEAKERS: PSA MTM-210T L/C/R * PSA MTM-110 (2) Surrounds * S2(4) Atmos * HSU VTF-3MK4
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post #4431 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 12:44 PM
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Maybe talk to Epson about this problem. These are the only 2 instances I have read, after some extensive research on the 5050 before buying one...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sirius_basterd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustolemite View Post
Okay having an odd problem with the 5050, this only happens once maybe every other week.
I will be watching the projector and it will auto shut off with the Blue Light blinking rapidly and the fan running a high speed. It does this for a minute or so then completely shuts down.
If I turn it back on it goes right back to the Blue Light and high fan and shuts off again. If I UNPLUG the projector that seems to fix everything.

And I know most would think its heat related but last night it did it only after being on for about 3 hours, I have had it on for a continuous 13 hours without this happening.
Just curious if anybody else has had anything like this happen.

Thanks

This just happened to me for the first time! And I just got it a few days ago. Shut off randomly. I didn't have to unplug it though, it stayed on when I pressed the power button. I was running it on medium power but maybe it got too hot?


EDIT: Mine is set up so the rear of the unit is close to the wall - I thought that was fine because the vents are in the front but it looks like the manual says it has to be at least 7.9" from any walls.
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post #4432 of 5940 Old 11-20-2019, 11:44 PM
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Has anyone used the settings from below?



Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ DOOM View Post
https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...jector-review/

Recommended Settings For SDR & HDR

SDR

Mode Natural
Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Color Sat 50
Tint 50
Sharpness 5, 5, 5
Color Temp Custom
Offset R 50
Offset G 48
Offset B 52
Gain R 50
Gain G 51
Gain B 50
Gamma -2
Set the bulb and manual iris to taste
Auto-iris high speed delivers the best possible contrast

HDR

Mode Digital Cinema
Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Color Sat 50
Tint 50
Sharpness 5, 5, 5
Color Temp 8
Skin Tone 3
Custom
Offsets unchanged
Gain R 60
Gain G 58
Gain B 40
HDR4 worked for me but your mileage may vary

Also from Sound & Vision.

"Before calibration, the Epson's default 6500K color temperature preset in Natural color mode displayed very good grayscale tracking, with the Delta E averaging out to 2.6. After calibration, that number improved to 1.4, with a high of 2.7 at 90 percent brightness. (Delta E is a figure of merit indicating how close the color comes to the standards, either D65 for the white point or the color coordinates for each of the primary and secondary colors that define the color gamut under test. Values below 3 are considered to be unnoticeable.)

With the default settings active in Natural color mode, the Delta E of the 5050UB's measured color points averaged out to 1.0. While the projector provides color management system controls, I didn't feel the need to access them given the Epson's faithful out-of- box Rec. 709 color reproduction. Coverage of the P3 color gamut was an impressive 97 percent. Gamma closely tracked a 2.2 target for most of the range when the -1 Gamma preset was selected, with a high of 2.3 at 90 IRE."

These projectors perform great out of the box. Its already 95% there. Don't get caught up in forum hype and spend unnecessary money.
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post #4433 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by momofx View Post
Has anyone used the settings from below?
Yes, and when I had a professional calibrator come over, he asked me where I got the settings, because they were WAY off. I'm not saying they won't be good for you, but every projector and setup is different, so the odds of those settings being right for you, are slim.

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post #4434 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jch2 View Post
If you are in the market for an Epson 5050UB, I have one that is known working great that I just purchased earlier this month from an authorized dealer. I want to upgrade to a 6050UB and don't want to pay the dealer's restocking fee. You will get the full warranty, and if you in the Minneapolis area you can demo it first. Here's my for sale post with the details:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/#/topics/3103694

Thanks for reading!

-J.C.
Your link just goes to the main page, not specifically to your listing. Just FYI.
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post #4435 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 06:09 AM
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I didn't these short videos on another forum where the debate was both ScreenDoor and one's ability to see the pixels on an Epson 5050/6050/TW9400.

Here’s the two videos, the first is with 4K enhancement ON... the video starts from a distance of 3ft from the screen and I then steadily move in, finishing off just 2-3” from the screen.


The next video is from the same distances but with 4K enhancement OFF.


Even from 3 foot from the screen the image is crystal clear and without any pixel structure.
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post #4436 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jch2 View Post
I've had problems with getting direct links to work. I updated the link in the original post. Try this one. Can you let me know if it works for you? Thank you for letting me know!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/252-f...tor.html?amp=1
That one works!
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post #4437 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 01:23 PM
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Santa in the form of a brown suit will be arriving early before all the crazy holiday sales with my new 5050ub! Now is the time for myself to do the upgrade where I have waited long enough. I have had my unbelievable Panasonic AE900U run from 2005 without ANY problems and still on the original lamp!

Upgraded practically everything for 4k/atmos in my theater and the pj is the only thing left.

I know what will happen...next years model will be a black case and native 4k but I hope this modern day projector brings good luck as my panny did for the next X years!

May my EPSON future begin! (that is the s/n checks out with Epson)

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HTPC 5.1.2 on a budget...Epson 5050UB/120", 4-13.5" JL-Audio Subs, 4-10" JBL Woofers, 4 - Polk Surrounds, JBL Center, 2- Polk Presence speakers, 2 - Yamaha Atmos speakers, Adcom Sub Amp 555MKII, Yamaha Receiver TSR-7810, COVID-19 FREE Theater
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post #4438 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 02:58 PM
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3D Playback in Plex Not Working

I just got my pair of Epson 3d glasses for my 5050ub. I got the glasses to pair no problem. No I'm trying to play a 3D movie file on Plex. It keeps playing Side By Side video and the 3d format button and menu options are disabled. I tried adding SBS, H-SBS, HSBS, Half-SBS to the file name with no luck.

Any ideas?
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post #4439 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypres0099 View Post
I just got my pair of Epson 3d glasses for my 5050ub. I got the glasses to pair no problem. No I'm trying to play a 3D movie file on Plex. It keeps playing Side By Side video and the 3d format button and menu options are disabled. I tried adding SBS, H-SBS, HSBS, Half-SBS to the file name with no luck.



Any ideas?
Make sure you have Plex set to 1080p. The 3D won't work if it's 4k.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
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post #4440 of 5940 Old 11-21-2019, 11:54 PM
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Smile Wow

Well I received my 5050UB today and decided to set up on a shelf I made up for it (back wall near the ceiling) and test it out on my (sort of) dark green wall. Wow, even with the green wall the picture was still very bright and amazing lol. The lense shift and zoom makes it soooooo easy to just set it up and use those functions instead of moving the projector or the shelf like it use to be in the past. Oh and even after looking at the specs online, this thing is a MONSTER when you actually have it in front of you


Due to my limitations and idea of also using a regular flat panel on the wall for general tv watching, I decided to go with a 125" Akia (Elite - Cinewhite) Motorized for now. The one thing I was glad I did not see anymore was that darn rainbow effect I see on DLPs.


Sorry for rambling on - I'm still astounded how amazing it looked, stock settings on a green wall LOL!

Last edited by momofx; 11-21-2019 at 11:59 PM.
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