Well I have been lurking around these forums for a while looking at the Fengmi and Xiaomi 4k ust's. I was going to get the benq ht3550/w2700 but people seem to be having problems with that.
I just pulled the trigger on the Fengmi! Hope its good
Currently I have an OPTOMA DE-9092EGS SCREEN. Will this work OK? If not can anyone suggest a better electric screen please.

That just looks like reflections off your screen. The light is hitting your screen and your screen acts as a mirror and bounces light off of it in the same severe angle that hit the screen. So, you get light patches on your wall where the reflections are hitting.

Paint your wall very dark, and most of that will go away.

This is why we don't use white walls people!

Thanks for your reply AV_Integrated!


I'm not sure what you mean by reflections off the screen because the wall is behind the screen and the screen casts a shadow. I realize the checker board picture doesn't show what i'm talking about very well so i took another two to show you what i'm talking about


The first pic shows it booting up with the "mi" logo. You can see the screen casts a shadow on the right, top and left side of the screen. Beyond that and below the screen you see the light "bleed". It's as if i haven't done the keystone adjustments correctly but i can assure you that i have. The second pic is a close of the bottom right corner of the screen which shows the screen, shadow and the light "bleed".



I do plan to make the wall darker by either painting it black or put up dark curtains which I think should hide the issue but i'm wondering if I did something wrong while playing with the adjustments or is this normal?


Thanks again for the reply

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Hi Disco74,


I've had the Fengmi for over a month now and it's been performing very well. I've also installed the english GUI by forum member spocky12.

If you have very little to no light in your cinema room then your screen will be just fine. ie. you won't need an ALR screen. Personally, i think the major issue with this unit is the fan noise. I like to turn up the volume a bit so for most movies it's not that noticeable but it's very noticeable in quiet scenes. Like a few minutes in to Blade Runner 2049. I sit about 3.5m from the projector and i can hear the fans clearly. I'll probably replace the fans later on when its warranty ends.

Also, I had a friend calibrate the unit for me and we found that by default it was way too cool so had to turn the blue down a bit and the red up a bit. Your unit may turn out different though

A bit surprised to see there's no mention of Chiq projectors anywhere on the forum.

Saw this video & it has made me further confused now.

Anyone out here having one of these Chiq projectors?

They supposedly have 4 models.

In model wise picture quality comparison (and also price wise), it is: B5U > A5U > C7UG > CU8T


Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk

oh so the menu doesn't have an English option like the Xiaomi? could you tell me how to install the English GUI you have please.

I also just noticed its going to come with a Chinese power cable. Will I need a transformer for use in the UK or can I just use one of these:https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-co...s%2C136&sr=8-6
This cable looks to have the right shaped plug for the rear of the projector.

It does have English. The poster rooted the projector and installed Spocky's projector tools. It's not needed, but highly recommended for many reasons.

I think it's safe to say it's the best of the Chinese lot and a very close second to the P1 depending on if you game or not. It's louder than I'd like, but two months in it hasn't been enough of an issue for me to spend almost double and upgrade to the P1--assuming that they'll fix the halfscreen flicker issue and the input lag. I've spent that money elsewhere on upgrades and been mesmerized with the differences (atmos, CLR/ALR screen, etc...); I doubt I'd be mesmerized by a slightly more tolerable fan noise. When it bothers me a just run a fan and it seems to cancel out the sound or maybe it's just me knowing that it's not the projector...the mental factor is always at play ;-)

Let me put it this way: for the price you can upgrade in a year and still be ahead of the game when compared to others. I bought mine knowing that if it went bad or something better came up I would still be ahead. As it stands I have the best of both worlds and have to tolerate 35DB of fan noise and the occasional coil whine.

I will have to look into the rooting thing. worried I might brick it
If this projector is good enough I might sell my LG C7 OLED and upgrade to a fixed frame screen.
Could anybody kindly comment on the power cable situation I mentioned earlier please?
Also what is the input lag for gaming like? Better than the Xiaomi?

it's also known as a cloverleaf or "mickey mouse" plug. Not 100% sure about UK voltages. I believe input lag is the same as the xiaomi mijia 4k and i've read that if you root it you can get lower. I'm not a gamer so never tested input lag. Just google "avsforum xiaomi app spocky12" and good luck.

Have you checked out the CHIQ projectors from China?

Forget the Fengmi, I am hearing from the manufacturer that even their entry-level models like the B5U & A5U come with MEMC, and coupled with a Vividstorm ALR screen, come very close to P1's performance, or are slightly better than P1..

B5U vs Fengmi 4k comparison here:


Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk

This is likely a TI chipset issue. I've posted similar pics in the Lune 4K thread.

Vincent at HDTV Test has just posted a review of this projector: He says the input lag is 117ms!!! Wish I had seen this before I bought it 2 days ago

Root it and install Spocky's projector tools. It's been tested as low as 32ms. Do yourself a favor and read the rest of this thread...it's not a big thread. I have had no problems with any games/systems I throw at it. It may not be for professional gamers that require sub 50ms, but outside of that you'll be quite happy with it after the tweaks.

OK so is there a step by step, easy to follow guide to rooting/installing Spooky's tools? I checked out the thread about it and there is a lot of info to sift through.

I think post #2 on the xda thread has directions and a link to a video on YouTube. There are some differences in the vid, but nothing you can't get past by searching the XDA thread.


Thanks for posting Vincent's review of the Fengmi I hadn't send that yet though it's almost identical to his Xiaomi Mijia 4k review. His screen was not flat and had obvious tension issues/setup errors during installation. Don't know if it's enough to affect the geometry, but you'd be surprised.

The 3D color source issues are intermittent on mine. You can get past it by toggling 3D on and off again. When correct the 3D is awesome.

I still am not 100% convinced that it can't output 2160p at 24hz. The EDID on mine looks like it's reporting it can do it and I haven't noticed anything yet in my watching. I have seen it on pans but @60hz. I'll had be to report back with specific tests from the movie Casino when I get a chance. There's been a few judder articles that mention that one in particular. Maybe the Wall-E reference in Vincent's review too.

EDIT: I recognize I've been a little stubborn coming to the conclusion that it can't do 24P without Judder--this is mainly due to the EDID showing that it can, but it appears to be an error in reporting with my setup..or something. I checked Spocky's EDID that he downloaded and it states 2160P and 1080p @60hz NATIVE. I assume this means that it accepts all the other video modes, but those are the only native modes.

Anyone know of an EDID primer? ;-) I've google but haven't got the results I need. Some of the things in there almost seem cryptographic at times.

Thank qoopy. Good to know.

Yeah I noticed in his review that a lot of the video was from the Xiaomi review he did. You can even see what looks like dents in the wall he is projecting onto(even though he says he is projecting onto a fixed frame screen)?

Did your friend utilize the engineering menu's to calibrate the color? I couldn't get rid of the blue enough without impacting the grey scale using "Customer Color" under user settings in order to approach a nice warm 6.5K image without adjusting the Blue in the engineering menu. I think I took Blue down about 20 and bumped up Red and Green about 5 notches. My whites/greys are now nice and warm.

Hi,

I've got the FM 4K over a month now and its even better than i expected. Had the 1080p from Xiaomi before , which was already quite good.

One thing i noticed it seems to auto dim the brightness sometimes. I notice this when switching HDMI channels. For example switching from nu setup box to Chromecast it shows a quite nice bright view but it dims a bit after 3 seconds.

Cant find any setting related to this. Anyone knows what it is?

I am still waiting for my projector to be delivered. Whilst I wait does anybody have any good picture settings for an unrooted version they would be kind enough to share?

Gregory "Kraine" of PHC has posted a good starting point, though I flip the Brightness and Contrast values (might just be a language translation issue though):

Settings mode User

Brightness: 47

Contrast: 42

Saturation: 48

Shade: 52

Custom color temperature

Red gain: 981

Green Gain: 897

Blue gain: 883


The Defaults are 50 and 1024 where applicable. Note that with Custom Color the higher you go over 1024 the brighter the image is but it will be blown out at a certain point so be careful there. The most difficult adjustment will be with your blue gain and getting the right balance so that your grey scale remains grey and your whites warm and white.

It's important to note that Dynamic Color should be OFF for HDR content and ON for SDR content otherwise the picture will be too /green-orange and not red enough. Dynamic Contrast has little baring so I just keep it on regardless of content.

With HDR content it's critical to adjust the Contrast to control your whites with the highest point possible without blooming, losing detail and the Brightness to the darkest point possible without crushing blacks, losing detail, without losing overall image brightness. An easy way to do this is go to a night scene and adjust your blacks and then go to daylight scene with the sun in view and adjust the contrast. SDR contrast will remain pretty constant with no need to adjust anything.

You'll find that different devices and devices within those apps have their own settings for saturation, brightness, and contrast so be be afraid to experiment and adjust when necessary. Even P1 owners have to deal with this (although to a lesser extent) so don't fret it's just the state of technology unfortunately.

How does it compare to your 1080p Xiaomi, do you see noticeable difference in 4k content from normal viewing position?

Awesome, thanks mate

Yes noticely better. The brightness alone is better and the true 4K resolution next to the 1080p version. The projector can be a bit noisier than the 1080p version though.

Must say im happy with the upgrade. Plus side is also it has a physical on/off button on the projector itself.

Just want to add to my previous post. I also started using an ALR screen with the 4K version so some of the better viewing experiencing can be caused by that aswell.

Hey Casey_Bryson, I wrote you a message over on another thread but it turns out it needs approval before it gets posted, but in case it doesn't I'd like to re-ask the question here.

My Fengmi 4K, when HDR is enabled in a movie that supports HDR (ie: Netflix's American Son and Haunting of Hill house), the screen gets incredibly dark (blacks are crushed) and the colors become very dull.
I've only noticed this when there is HDR content. Ive already disabled dynamic colors. But I left dynamic Contrast ON.

I am using an NVIDIA shield pro 2019. I've also tested this with my Amazon firestick 4K and it does the same thing with HDR content. It wasn't until I figured when I went into the SHIELD's display settings and turned OFF HDR10 Ready, then HDR content gets disabled and those movies become much brighter and more vivid. Also plugging these android boxes into HDMI3/ARC disables HDR since apparently that port does support HDR or 4K. Who knew...

I've read on AVForums that others were having this same issue where HDR content forces the fengmi 4k projector to darken and dull.


I've banged my head for many days trying to get HDR to properly work and I've since gave up and completely turned off HDR in my nvidia shield. I wish I could enable it because people say HDR should be bright and vivid.

Do you mind posting your settings?

Also, I've followed gregory (?) on PHC and used his settings for the fengmi 4K projector. I think his settings are a tad too dark. And this is quickly noticeable when I adjust the RGB values. Is this even supposed to happen? Also, the reds are too red so I've turned that down to about 940 instead of 988.



And lastly, have you found a way to turn off your fengmi 4k projector using a remote controller other than the one that came with the projector? I am able to turn on the projector and my nvidia shield using the shield's remote, but I cannot turn OFF the projector with the nvidia shield's remote.


Your help is greatly appreciated. The fengmi 4k and the a300 doesn't get much love or attention on these forums. I'd' love to get some input from another enthusiast.

Thanks!!

Hey Lemonspeakers! I repsponded to your post on the Xiaomi Mijia thread, but since then I've also seen your similar posts on XDA and here with a little more detail about your issue. I'm not sure what's going on, but let's troubleshoot it a bit:

Sources: You're 2/2 with some pretty common sources so probably not that. I don't have a Firestick or Shield so I can't help you there, but I know others on the Xiaomi thread do and haven't reported anything there. If anything you should be getting a slight 10%+ boost in HDR with the Fengmi due to the extra lumens/nits/brightness. I have an Denon X3600H AVR that passes on my sources to the projector. I use the Roku Ultra for streaming and my HTPC w/AMD Radeon 5700 XT and MadVR for movies and 4K HDR gaming. I also have a Nintendo Switch--so those are my sources. NOTE: I have connected each source direct, bypassing the AVR, and had no issues. I had some cable issues initially and since switched to 8K cables to ensure I don't get any nagging HDCP 2.2 issues or drop outs since some of my sources are 10 feet apart.

HDMI ports: I don't have any issues getting 4K HDR @ 60 FPS on any HDMI Port. I known ports can differ in quality and I could be wrong here, but usually if it has ARC it's probably you're best port. That's the one I use mainly to get ARC and CEC functionality between my AVR. I'm assuming you've enabeld HDMI 2.0 for this port.

Perception/experience/?: What's your experience with HDR? I know for a lot of people HDR can be perceived to "darken" and image (depending on the scene/image content) especially when compared against an SDR image because it is more dynamic and deeper overall. So maybe it's just perception? You can take the depth out of an HDR image by increasing the Brightness setting beyond the Contrast and it will flatten the image and look more like SDR. Try it! It might improve the picture in your eyes and appear brighter, but it will be flat and lose the depth that a lower Brightness to Contrast ratio provides. NOTE: Some HDR content doesn't have a very high ceiling so you can really boost the Contrast and get a very bright picture and keep your low floor for your black level. I think The Mandolorian is a good example of this. I didn't test out the shows you listed.

Settings: Try and bump up RGB in the Custom Colors and see what happens. The lower they are the darker your image will be. Usually my settings are as follows:

Custom Color: R-1030, G-1020, B-930

Typical SDR: Brightness 43, Contrast 58, Saturation 62 (on the high end but I like my eye candy), Sharpness 40, Hue/Tint 50 Dynamic Color ON, Dynamic Contrast ON
Typical HDR: Brightness 48, Contrast 58, Saturation 62, Sharpness 40, Hue/Tint 50 Dynamic Color OFF Dynamic Constast ON (little to no affect on most HDR content)

Bad hardware/firmware: I hope it's not this, but you weren't getting 4K HDR on HDMI 3 and I'm assuming you had HDMI 2.0 enabled. Which firmware are you on? Per Spocky there are some calibration differences between a few builds. I tested the two that are being wildly speculated about on PHC and XDA and I didn't notice any difference, but maybe that's a route to go if the above suggestions don't pan out? Let's hope it's not a hardware issue.

Thanks for your reply. It's very enlightening.
To start, I have an LG OLED so HDR isn't something I've never seen before. I've just never seen it behave like this before on a Faux-K projector.

I'm attaching a video clip of the phenomenon I'm seeing from a firestick 4K. The projector is set on HDMI port 1 with HDMI 2.0 enabled. Standard color profile and highlight mode selected.
Notice at 6 seconds and at 18 seconds, when HDR kicks in the screen dims significantly. This is projected onto an ALR PET Crystal xyscreen. In complete dark with no ambient light, it's incredibly hard to see. Somehow my cellphone camera is able to pick something up, So here it is.

https://imgur.com/erTZ2oI

This is tested on an 8K HDMI (2.1) chord. I've also tested this with two different HDMI cables as well. Same darkening issue. CONNECTION: Shield box to HDMI to projector. The firestick is plugged directly onto projector. Both in HDMI port 1.

Display settings shows I get 4K @ 59.9fps (not exactly 60fps).

No HDR out of HDMI port 3/ARC.

I've tried doing some calibration on dynamic range using YouTube videos where brightness controls the blacks and contrast for the whites. But this doesn't help at all.

I'll try plugging in your settings and RGB values and see if it makes any difference. BTW, feel free to pm me over on XDA since I'm unable to pm you here without x-amount of posts.

I really hope this isn't due to bad hardware.

I'm really thinking about buying a Roku ultra to to see if HDR works properly. Or if the issue is really isolated to these two devices.
I've tried playing some 4K HDR video on YouTube, but I don't know if they really are HDR enabled despite being from the "HDR channel"

*Shrugs***