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post #1 of 9 Old 06-18-2019, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Projector mount height

I'm getting ready to purchase an Epson HC1060 and want to make sure I get a mount that will work for the screen height and distance combo I have. I looked at the Epson 1060 manual online and it indicates a 2" distance from the top edge of the screen when ceiling mounted around 8.5 feet from the screen. My question is; is that 2" above or below the screen? The picture in the manual seems to indicate it should be above but when I go to the calculator they have for it, it indicates 2.25" below the edge of the screen. I'm really hoping it's above. We have just under 8' ceilings in our basement and a low hanging projector could cause issues.

This is in a drop ceiling so I need to find a mount that is the correct height. Moving the drop ceiling panel reveals a roughly 4" gap between the bottom edge of the joists and the bottom edge of the ceiling tiles. I plan to put some plywood between the two joists and attach the mount to that. Should make things very stable. I just need to then measure the distance from the ceiling tiles to the proper height the lens should be at and make sure the mount matches. I've read a little here about avoiding keystone correction. Is this set in stone? Is there a fine adjust I can use if needed or would the auto keystone work Ok here? I clearly have no experience with projectors and don't want to throw away good money on a mount. I've seen a good few mounts that will be close for around $20 so, that's the preferred method if possible.

Thanks for any help you guys can offer.
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-18-2019, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoNavyLP View Post
I'm getting ready to purchase an Epson HC1060 and want to make sure I get a mount that will work for the screen height and distance combo I have. I looked at the Epson 1060 manual online and it indicates a 2" distance from the top edge of the screen when ceiling mounted around 8.5 feet from the screen. My question is; is that 2" above or below the screen? The picture in the manual seems to indicate it should be above but when I go to the calculator they have for it, it indicates 2.25" below the edge of the screen. I'm really hoping it's above. We have just under 8' ceilings in our basement and a low hanging projector could cause issues.

This is in a drop ceiling so I need to find a mount that is the correct height. Moving the drop ceiling panel reveals a roughly 4" gap between the bottom edge of the joists and the bottom edge of the ceiling tiles. I plan to put some plywood between the two joists and attach the mount to that. Should make things very stable. I just need to then measure the distance from the ceiling tiles to the proper height the lens should be at and make sure the mount matches. I've read a little here about avoiding keystone correction. Is this set in stone? Is there a fine adjust I can use if needed or would the auto keystone work Ok here? I clearly have no experience with projectors and don't want to throw away good money on a mount. I've seen a good few mounts that will be close for around $20 so, that's the preferred method if possible.

Thanks for any help you guys can offer.
The HC1060 offset is fixed, no adjustment other than correct positioning of the unit relative to the screen. The offset is below the top of the screen for a ceiling mount.

If your drop ceiling is installed correctly, per manufacture spec, Chief mounts makes a "Tile Suspended Ceiling Kit" that will work for you. The HC1060 is very light and will work very well with this mount.

You would need to add the down pipe and mount. Plywood between the joists will work too.

You want to avoid using any keystone correction for best picture quality. It requires doing a good job mounting the projector. FWIW, I use an HC1060 outdoors for our backyard theater and I don't use any keystone correction. Mounting indoors gives you much more control so it's really not that hard to do.

The HC1060 has both auto keystone and manual adjustment. But again you don't really want to use it.

https://www.legrandav.com/products/c...ed_kits/cma443

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post #3 of 9 Old 06-19-2019, 04:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks very much for the response. The joists in the ceiling are very close to the actual drop ceiling. Using plywood I think I can get the projector very close to the prescribed height. Shouldn't be too bad installing it. I'm handy enough to make it work.

It'll be hard to get it exact though so would you say the less keystone correction the better or is this the kind of thing where any small amount of keystone makes a huge difference? I ordered the 1060 and a ceiling mount that I believe I can make work so, when preparing for this, I want to make sure I'm thinking it through correctly.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-19-2019, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoNavyLP View Post
Thanks very much for the response. The joists in the ceiling are very close to the actual drop ceiling. Using plywood I think I can get the projector very close to the prescribed height. Shouldn't be too bad installing it. I'm handy enough to make it work.

It'll be hard to get it exact though so would you say the less keystone correction the better or is this the kind of thing where any small amount of keystone makes a huge difference? I ordered the 1060 and a ceiling mount that I believe I can make work so, when preparing for this, I want to make sure I'm thinking it through correctly.
A good projector mount allows you to adjust on 3 axis, X,Y, and Z or pitch, yaw, and roll. The down tube controls the height with regards to offset and in some mounts it serves as the yaw axis adjustment by pivoting the mount on the threads and locking with a set screw.

The object of mounting is to get the lens center aligned with the vertical center of the screen and perpendicular, 90°'s, with the surface of the screen. I would caution you that one of the major problems people overlook when mounting a screen and projector is that the wall the screen is mounted on is not square and plumb, at 90° with the ceiling/floor. Many walls are running on a diagonal from ceiling to floor (greater or less than 90°'s) or on the horizontal or both. I've seen walls in homes that are off by 0.5-2.0 inches or more. Many walls have a wave in the surface that can cause the screens frame to bend and or twist when it's mounted which can vary the distance on parts of the screen relative to the projectors lens causing parts of the image to be out of focus.

When you hang the screen, you want to make sure that it's level, square, and plumb in space and this may require some shimming when attaching it to the wall. Many walls are so distorted that they will bind or twist the screen frame where no amount of projector mount adjustment will allow for a correct picture geometry to be displayed.

The projector mounts 3 axis adjustment allows for correction but you want to make sure the screen surface is correct first. It's the old measure twice before you cut adage.

Quite simply put, keystone correction is intentional distortion of the output image to create a rectangular image with regards to the selected aspect ratio. The projector does this digitally by turning off pixels on the projectors imaging panel, in your case the 3 LCD panels, to create a trapezoid (horizontal and vertical) that will match the geometry distortion created by not having the projectors lens perpendicular with the screen surface.

When the projectors keystone correction is introduced or turned on and applied, the projector has to re-scale the image to match the reduced number of pixels which in turn reduces the projectors resolution. In your case your 1080P projector is not longer 1080P when you turn on keystone correction. The sharpness of the image is also degraded from the re-scaling and the reduction of usable pixels.

So any use of keystone adjustment is an intentional introduction of distortion and a degrading of picture quality. If you're using keystone adjustment, you've done a poor job of hanging the screen and projector and acquiescing to poor picture quality as well as settling for something less than your equipment is capable of. It's very easy to avoid if you take the time to measure and carefully hang the screen and projector properly. It's really no more difficult than reading a tape measure and centering the bubble on a spirit level.
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-19-2019, 07:40 AM
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Digital keystone correction in most instances is not very noticeable in movies for most people if it's used for minor adjustment. It does become very obvious in text as in a PC desktop or gaming.

"Smart enough to know better, to old to care" ------ Dedicated Bat Cave Home Theater, JVC RS49U/Mitsubishi HC7900DW Projector, 110" 16:9 Jamestown screen with variable power masking for CIW 2.50:1 to 16:9, Marantz 7009 with 7.1.4 Atmos with Ohm mains,3 DIY Subs (2 15" (1 ported, 1 sealed and a 12" 4th order bandpass), 1 DIY butt kicker, Custom Built HTPC, 18TB DroboFS NAS
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-19-2019, 08:42 AM
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@b curry has done a great job of describing how digital keystone correction works and @rekbones has presented the other side of the equation that some users don't notice any difference when using a small amount of digital keystone correction. No one can know for sure how much digital keystone correction and image degradation they would be willing to tolerate without experimenting and seeing it with their own eyes. Even projector manufacturers recommend that you only use digital keystone correction when absolutely necessary, so it's worth making the effort to do a proper installation to avoid having to use it.
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-19-2019, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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This is all really good info and I wish I had some of it before mounting my screen. The 1060 is on order with this mount:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can get it close. The screen I have can be adjusted I think. There are two brackets holding it up and I believe I can shim them both vertically and out from the wall. There is some play in the mount as well so I can adjust the screen horizontally. I'm 90% certain I can get things really close based on the specs from the owners manual and the calculator on the Epson website. I would assum at that point any keystone correction would be extremely minimal. I won't be using a PC connected to this and what little gaming that will be done will most likely be Dance Party USA style for my 5 year old. Not the most discerning of critics in the video department. Call something pink instead of light purple and there will be issues....slight loss of resolution, not so much. I'll have to play with it and see what it looks like.

As always, thanks for the help. This site has helped me to create what I think is a great little home theater with a sometimes outdoor component. Thanks for making me (and the theater) look good.


For reference, I attached a picture of the screen
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Last edited by GoNavyLP; 06-19-2019 at 09:34 AM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-20-2019, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the projector and mount today. Had to rig and odd setup fir the mount. With a drop ceiling, I needed it to be mounted essentially flush with the ceiling tiles. I used 2x4s connected to the joists then used a white shelf board to replace half the tile. The 2x4s reinforced it and and mounted the projector to the white shelf board. Measured eight times and lined everything up. No keystone adjustment needed. No zoom needed. Just focused and did some fine adjusting of the projector to center the image. Maybe an inch horizontally an half an inch vertically.

Thanks for all the info and advice. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. Time for bed.
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-23-2019, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Got everything installed and aligned. In the pictures, you can see the 2x4s used to reinforce things and take the weight off the drop ceiling rails. When I mounted the projector, I went straight through the white shelving and into the supports. It's not perfect but I think it looks good.

Nothing like LaLa Loopsey to get your projector all set up and aligned.

Thanks for helping me with this. I appreciate all the input.
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