Optoma UHD52ALV - Page 9 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #241 of 314 Old 04-08-2020, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
The X700 has a setting for projector output which changes HDR tone mapping to that more suitable for projectors.

Have you experimented with changing the HDR Dynamic range options on the projector (Try Bright-Standard-Film-Details) and the gamma (try video - 1.8 - 2.0)? With the X700 Dynamic Range = Bright and Gamma 1.8 or 2.0 often works well.
Your suggestion solved the issue and discovered a new one. I like the gamma at 2.0, but figured I'd try 1.8 and see how it looks. Gamma was on Film which was super dark compared to 2.0. I can't recall ever changing it as I don't like super dark in general and I've had that happen with Dynamic Black being turn off when I never turn it off. I returned it to 2.0 and watched Terminator and it was a huge change and fixed the issue.
I messed around a bit more with the X700 then to see if maybe I just want to keep it and replace my Xbox for movies and I checked my settings again while on the Xbox and Gamma was at 1.8. I'm guessing both issues are coming from the Xbox itself with some setting; just need to figure out which one. Thanks for the suggestion though. Solved the issue saved that money for a new toy

Just need to pay attention to my settings more often. With Alexa I hardly touch the remote.
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post #242 of 314 Old 04-08-2020, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
Filters are optional on most DLP projectors as they have a sealed light engine. Typically they're never needed.

The case should be white with 2 x HDMI 2.0 ports on the back. IIRC, there's a metal plate on the underside with a model number(An Optoma ID code) and power requirements which you can google.
That is good to know that DLP projectors doesn;t need the filter normally. As I noticed housing for the fan filter but there is no filter in it and I was wondering. My previous pj is Mitsubishi HC4900 which has a filter for the fan. The underside does have the model number which is VDUHDUNALV. Can anyone confirm that it is correct? I googled it but didn't get anything meaningful back.
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post #243 of 314 Old 04-08-2020, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DunMunro View Post
And a UHD52ALV review:

https://www.techradar.com/reviews/optoma-uhd52alv

Overall, it's pretty positive.
Yeah, it is amazingly sharp and bright, especially I came from Mitsubishi HC4900. I know that there are lots of I need to do in order to get it to the optimal viewing condition. By just playing several short demo video, it is amazing.
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post #244 of 314 Old 04-08-2020, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC8813 View Post
That is good to know that DLP projectors doesn;t need the filter normally. As I noticed housing for the fan filter but there is no filter in it and I was wondering. My previous pj is Mitsubishi HC4900 which has a filter for the fan. The underside does have the model number which is VDUHDUNALV. Can anyone confirm that it is correct? I googled it but didn't get anything meaningful back.
By the way, the case is white. And it matches with the picture on Optoma website for UHD52ALV.
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post #245 of 314 Old 04-08-2020, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC8813 View Post
That is good to know that DLP projectors doesn;t need the filter normally. As I noticed housing for the fan filter but there is no filter in it and I was wondering. My previous pj is Mitsubishi HC4900 which has a filter for the fan. The underside does have the model number which is VDUHDUNALV. Can anyone confirm that it is correct? I googled it but didn't get anything meaningful back.

High output, white case, and that code = UHD52ALV:

https://www.rra.go.kr/ko/license/A_b...REM-COR-UHD51A
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post #246 of 314 Old 04-08-2020, 07:21 PM
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@DunMunro Thank you for confirming this. Really appreciaed!
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post #247 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC8813 View Post
That is good to know that DLP projectors doesn;t need the filter normally. As I noticed housing for the fan filter but there is no filter in it and I was wondering. My previous pj is Mitsubishi HC4900 which has a filter for the fan. The underside does have the model number which is VDUHDUNALV. Can anyone confirm that it is correct? I googled it but didn't get anything meaningful back.
Typically yes. But the light engine is almost sealed, not sealed. There are DLP models which have been sold with dust filters in places like the middle east. On my DLP I've had to send it in the shop to get it cleaned since the window is at a busy boulevard, with lots of dust.
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post #248 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 08:05 AM
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Fan filter for DLP projectors - needed?

Based on this article, dust still accumulates inside the projector. I assume that is because the fan sucks in the air for cool the lamp down. Would it be better to proactively just use one layer house dust filter material and exchange it periodically? Something I can think of, such as Filtret Hammock Filter material made by 3M. Would it disturb the air flow for cooling?
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post #249 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC8813 View Post
Based on this article, dust still accumulates inside the projector. I assume that is because the fan sucks in the air for cool the lamp down. Would it be better to proactively just use one layer house dust filter material and exchange it periodically? Something I can think of, such as Filtret Hammock Filter material made by 3M. Would it disturb the air flow for cooling?
I don't think a filter should be used unless it came with the projector.

User @JPHCCFC has tried something like this and his last post is:

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPHCCFC View Post
My fans have started to make a rattling noise.....does anyone know what this is? Only happens intermittently and appears to be when the fans speed up and it's really annoying.....
Filter:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post59217156
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post #250 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 08:51 AM
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I think that I am going to do something for stopping the dust. It definitely accumulates in couple years.
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post #251 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 09:06 AM
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I think that I am going to do something for stopping the dust. It definitely accumulates in couple years.
A filtered hush box could be an option.

Another is to send it to the manufacturer or an authorized dealer to get it cleaned. Don't know if Optoma has this service, but other brands do. It's relatively inexpensive.
Or you could do it yourself if it's out of warranty.
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post #252 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC8813 View Post
Based on this article, dust still accumulates inside the projector. I assume that is because the fan sucks in the air for cool the lamp down. Would it be better to proactively just use one layer house dust filter material and exchange it periodically? Something I can think of, such as Filtret Hammock Filter material made by 3M. Would it disturb the air flow for cooling?
If you feel you need a filter, you can order one from Optoma. ~99% of DLP projectors don't need or don't use one.

Anything that might block airflow could shorten the life of your projector, so I'd call Optoma first.
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post #253 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
I don't think a filter should be used unless it came with the projector.

User @JPHCCFC has tried something like this and his last post is:



Filter:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post59217156
It's not the fans making the noise....it's another component but not sure what it is....
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post #254 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 11:30 AM
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I think that I can get one Optoma officially uses.
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post #255 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 02:53 PM
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Question about basic calibration

I would like to get advised on some basic configuration and calibration procedure in order to get to the optimised viewing condition.

First let me introduce my configuration.

I use Win10 as HTPC as video source and connect the PJ through Yamaha 7850. The video card is Nvidia 1030. I am trying several video players including KODI, FLEX, VLC as well as commercial product like Power DVD etc. I have a library of films in both 1080p/3D(normal BD) and 4K UHD resolution in my server.

I noticed that in Win10, HDR needs to be switched on/off to get the optimal viewing experience.

Here are some basic questions.

1) On Windows side, is there way to switch HDR on/off by a script which I can put on the desktop? Or better is there a product which supports switching HDR on/off based on whether the source has HDR or not? (I guess that the answer is a NO)

2) On PJ side, what basic procedure I shall take to adjust the brightness/contrast/Sharpness etc? Do I need to do this for SDR and HDR separately? Or would I just use one of the pre-set display mode?

3) I noticed that in display mode there is HDR, do I need to manually switch to HDR mode in order to get the HDR effect? I probably just keep one HDMI connection from the receiver to the PJ and I don't want to select the input on PJ side.

4) And what about Gamma and Color settings? Do I need to be worried about that? Do these to be selected manually based on different video source?

Sorry for the long list of questions. Just want to get it jump started.

Thanks in advance!
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post #256 of 314 Old 04-09-2020, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC8813 View Post
I would like to get advised on some basic configuration and calibration procedure in order to get to the optimised viewing condition.

First let me introduce my configuration.

I use Win10 as HTPC as video source and connect the PJ through Yamaha 7850. The video card is Nvidia 1030. I am trying several video players including KODI, FLEX, VLC as well as commercial product like Power DVD etc. I have a library of films in both 1080p/3D(normal BD) and 4K UHD resolution in my server.

I noticed that in Win10, HDR needs to be switched on/off to get the optimal viewing experience.

Here are some basic questions.

1) On Windows side, is there way to switch HDR on/off by a script which I can put on the desktop? Or better is there a product which supports switching HDR on/off based on whether the source has HDR or not? (I guess that the answer is a NO)

2) On PJ side, what basic procedure I shall take to adjust the brightness/contrast/Sharpness etc? Do I need to do this for SDR and HDR separately? Or would I just use one of the pre-set display mode?

3) I noticed that in display mode there is HDR, do I need to manually switch to HDR mode in order to get the HDR effect? I probably just keep one HDMI connection from the receiver to the PJ and I don't want to select the input on PJ side.

4) And what about Gamma and Color settings? Do I need to be worried about that? Do these to be selected manually based on different video source?

Sorry for the long list of questions. Just want to get it jump started.

Thanks in advance!

1) Can't help as my PC is not HDR capable.

2/4) For HDR I will typically adjust HDR Dynamic range ( Bright-Standard-film-Details) and Gamma ( test each up to 2.4) and unfortunately this will vary by source and content. It's a bit frustrating at times because HDR material can be encoded for differing max and minimum brightness levels. The HDR Optimizer in the Panasonic UB420 can add an extra layer of adjustablity to HDR and SDR content. For example, it can send convert HDR material to SDR and you can then watch it using Reference mode and it can limit (tone map) the max and min values to keep hilights from being blown out and/or shadows from losing detail.

For HDR I would leave the projector contrast and colour settings at their default values. You should ensure that your source is sending a YUV signal and for best results it should send a 24P, 12bit 4:4:4, deep colour signal for 24P (typical for BD or 4K HDR BD or Netflix HDR source material) my Sony UBP-X700 is excellent for high quality streaming and very competent at 4K HDR and 4K upscaling disc upscaling . For 60hz, you will have to experiment, but basically you want the best signal possible. I only have one HDMI2.0 port on my UHD50, but I am guessing (maybe you can confirm) that the projector will use different HDR settings for HDMI 1 or 2, and thus you can set HDMI 1 up for PC HDR and HDMI 2 for 4k BD HDR, for example.

When the projector detects an SDR signal it will change to whatever SDR mode was last used on that HDMI connector (HDMI 1/2). It can be useful to feed the projector with two HDMI cables because of this. For example, your daytime SDR TV source can be fed to HDMI 1, and the projector optimized for that say - HDR Sim, gamma 2.0, and for dark room viewing of SDR material, you might use a BD player on HDMI2 - Reference, Gamma 2.4.

3) The projector should auto detect an HDR signal and switch into HDR mode and display the HDR flag on screen. You can check the status of the incoming signal via the Menu->info display on the projector.

On My UHD50 I found the factory cheat codes to go into the service menu and I turned on SDR ISF Day and Night Modes, and I optimized these for contrast and brightness as the names would suggest, by using SDR pluge test patterns from Youtube. However, I wouldn't advise doing this until you become very familiar with the operation of your projector.

Last edited by DunMunro; 04-09-2020 at 07:21 PM.
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post #257 of 314 Old 04-10-2020, 09:14 AM
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@DunMunro Thanks for the advise. My configuration only has one video source - Win10 machine which I use for everything such as OTA TV, internet streaming as well as BD from NAS. I try to keep it simple. One strategy I can use is to set Win10 output always as HDR so PJ always at HDR mode. I am not sure how how upscaling Windows will do (I assume that it is done by the video driver). I will do more experiment and report back. I may also post the query in the discussion for HTPC.
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post #258 of 314 Old 04-14-2020, 09:14 AM
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Text not shown clear in 3840x2160 resolution

I have been playing around tth the PJ for about two weeks and in general I am impressed with the capabilities especially I came from Mitsubishi HC4900. I use PC as the video source and use Yamaha 7850 as receiver.

One pain for using this configuration is to switch the display profile for different video content. For example, switch from watching UHD movie to 3D movie. I am trying to see if there is tools out there to make this as smooth as possible.

One thing I noticed is the I set the clarity of the text displayed. WHen I set the resolution to 3840x2160, the text is not super clear. See attached photo. The text is not displayed clearly as you normally see on a computer monitor. And it has white edge around the text.

I am not sure whether this is normal or there is setting somewhere I can adjust.

I also noticed that I can't get 'Sharpness' setting enabled no matter how I change the display mode on the PJ.
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post #259 of 314 Old 04-14-2020, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC8813 View Post
I have been playing around tth the PJ for about two weeks and in general I am impressed with the capabilities especially I came from Mitsubishi HC4900. I use PC as the video source and use Yamaha 7850 as receiver.

One pain for using this configuration is to switch the display profile for different video content. For example, switch from watching UHD movie to 3D movie. I am trying to see if there is tools out there to make this as smooth as possible.

One thing I noticed is the I set the clarity of the text displayed. WHen I set the resolution to 3840x2160, the text is not super clear. See attached photo. The text is not displayed clearly as you normally see on a computer monitor. And it has white edge around the text.

I am not sure whether this is normal or there is setting somewhere I can adjust.

I also noticed that I can't get 'Sharpness' setting enabled no matter how I change the display mode on the PJ.
Are you outputting YUV?

What does the projector state for incoming signal?
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post #260 of 314 Old 04-14-2020, 01:56 PM
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Are you outputting YUV?

What does the projector state for incoming signal?
YUV 422, 10 bit. I use Nvidia GT1030 GPU. Somehow 444 can't be displayed.
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post #261 of 314 Old 04-14-2020, 02:21 PM
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YUV 422, 10 bit. I use Nvidia GT1030 GPU. Somehow 444 can't be displayed.
What hz?

Displaying single pixel text might result in some artifacts. Typically I use ~200% scaling of the Win10 desktop to make text visible and I don't see any artifacts.
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post #262 of 314 Old 04-14-2020, 05:07 PM
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What hz?

Displaying single pixel text might result in some artifacts. Typically I use ~200% scaling of the Win10 desktop to make text visible and I don't see any artifacts.
60Hz. I also use 200% scaling. Otherwise the text is too small.
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post #263 of 314 Old 04-15-2020, 07:22 PM
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A UHD52ALV review:

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Opt...tor-Review.htm

lookin good...!
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post #264 of 314 Old 04-16-2020, 12:46 AM
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what are the best 3d glasses to buy for it
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post #265 of 314 Old 04-16-2020, 05:01 AM
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Nice review. I was surprised to see not much love for the 3d, as others here have given it very high ratings in that regard.

Spoiler!
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post #266 of 314 Old 04-16-2020, 07:10 AM
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75ms lag

When I had the UHD380x the lag felt smaller than the w2700 did.

Optoma’s website claims UHD380x lag to be around 66ms. UHD52alv should have the same? But then again results may vary.


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post #267 of 314 Old 04-16-2020, 07:20 AM
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what are the best 3d glasses to buy for it
I use BOBLOV JX-30. Pretty good.
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post #268 of 314 Old 04-16-2020, 07:11 PM
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Nice review. I was surprised to see not much love for the 3d, as others here have given it very high ratings in that regard.
I had this projector for a month then switched to the Benq TK850.

the 3D is good on the 52ALV but sort of choppy with motion, there's something a bit funky about it that the Benq doesn't have which makes the TK850 a 3D favorite.

And I am a 3D fiend. My setup is the 3D DLP to RF converter box here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9JLKTY..._r-qMEb60WTVP8

Then I have an Optoma RF emitter and the Optoma ZF300 glasses. For me it's a superior system because I never ever lose sync even when I look away or go to a different room and come back. It's also crystal clear and very nice.

But for the money the Benq is King for 3D and for HDR Tone mapping and dynamic Iris.

I watched The matrix trilogy 4K discs on it and for me it's a better picture than the ALV.

Having said that the ALV is a very awesome unit and I do recommend it especially if you need a longer throw.
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post #269 of 314 Old 04-17-2020, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by longhornsk57 View Post
I had this projector for a month then switched to the Benq TK850.

the 3D is good on the 52ALV but sort of choppy with motion, there's something a bit funky about it that the Benq doesn't have which makes the TK850 a 3D favorite.

And I am a 3D fiend. My setup is the 3D DLP to RF converter box here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9JLKTY..._r-qMEb60WTVP8

Then I have an Optoma RF emitter and the Optoma ZF300 glasses. For me it's a superior system because I never ever lose sync even when I look away or go to a different room and come back. It's also crystal clear and very nice.

But for the money the Benq is King for 3D and for HDR Tone mapping and dynamic Iris.

I watched The matrix trilogy 4K discs on it and for me it's a better picture than the ALV.

Having said that the ALV is a very awesome unit and I do recommend it especially if you need a longer throw.
3d fiend here too Appreciate the feedback. I did see your post over on the tk850 thread. I was more interested in the uhd52alv before, but now if I ever get the chance to grab the Benq on sale and/or at a good discount I may just do that to compare the 3d with my 5040ub refurb. Once I dialed in the 3d settings and got rid of 95% of the ghosting/crosstalk on it, I was surprised to find I am quite happy with the Epson's 3d now. That's coming from the Benq ht3050 and w1070 before it, which the only problem with 3d was dimness and loss of sync on bright white scenes (ht3050 only). The Epson is much brighter than the tk850's 3d (according to hometheaterhifi.com) and has 3d FI and better contrast, but the tk850 should have basically zero ghosting and better native motion resolution.

As for the glasses, I actually prefer the dlp-link glasses. But that's only because I'm wary of wireless signals all over the place and especially bluetooth glasses right on my skull. Not enough to shun watching 3d on my 5040ub of course, just enough to give dlp-link the edge in my book. Otherwise I'm sure rf glasses are better sync-wise and probably picture/color wise (even if slightly). I'm also finding good rf glasses much harder to find these days. Epson's shipped from China for $40+ seem to be the only good one's left out of all that I've tried. I still have several different brands of good dlp-link glasses that are still available on amazon and such today.

Spoiler!
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post #270 of 314 Old 04-17-2020, 11:57 AM
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Ya I've had my RF set since my old HD142x from years ago, and wanted to keep using them for these new projectors so I bought that converter box and it works well.

There's some good DLP Link out there you can't go wrong but for me RF is King.
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