Epson HC 3200 and 3800 revealed - Page 21 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #601 of 630 Old 02-28-2020, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bidwood View Post
Thanks for the reply! I realize projectors aren't TVs, but on balance of all the pros and cons of both I decided projectors were better and this was proven by my ownership of a couple:
  • Obviously the size is a lot bigger, leading to a more cinematic experience.
  • Much easier to read text from couch distance without zooming ridiculously far (PC).
  • Way better uniformity -- even full array local dimming on quality TVs drove me nuts.
  • No reflections.
  • Better motion.

I use my projector as the main display for a computer in my living room which serves all the day-to-day needs plus video streaming and gaming. It's in a setting that most projector enthusiasts would gag over: The fixed screen hangs over 1/2 of my wall-to-wall north facing windows, with tons of light coming in from behind. It's a rental and the walls are glossy white, so I have no plans or ability to control the light further. Even at night time it probably doesn't come close to what enthusiasts would consider good.

And yet the HC2100 has struck a really great balance for me in being versatile enough to do all of these things decently (i.e. computing, streaming video, gaming; in the light or dark).

My screen is a 1.0 gain grey 92" 16:9 Silver Ticket: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My goal is to see what improvements I can get mainly in the daytime viewing (or viewing at night with one or two lights on) which is where I assumed the HC3800 being 2-3 years newer, higher tier and claiming 3000 lumens (v.s. my current 2400) might do the trick. Yes, the manufacturer's lumen claims are inflated but I assume within the same product line the lumen rating system is consistent. And even between the eco and normal modes, as well as natural and dynamic on HC2100 I see a significant difference in viewability during the day. So I'm thinking a boost of 500 lumens by going to HC3800 would give me a great daytime viewing experience without having to crank the settings and fan noise.

Then there's the pixel-shifted 4K60 with the HC3800 and better input lag than what I have now (for gaming). I'm not really banking on the HDR being good, but there's that too.

And while the better claimed contrast (100k v.s. 45k) might give me me a boost in picture quality, I'm honestly not aiming for deep blacks with mid-range Epson and my viewing environment.

As you can see, my circumstances are a lot different from what is probably the norm on here and yet I am definitely looking for a projector rather than a TV.

Thanks again for the input! cheers
I don't know if you read what the previous post said.
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post #602 of 630 Old 03-08-2020, 06:56 AM
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I just purchased the 3800 to replace my 3700, in large part so that I can get Atmos on Disney+. Unfortunately, Disney+ does not seem to be recognizing the projector as compatible with HDR 10/Atmos. I currently have the projector on its default settings. Maybe there is a setting that I need to adjust somewhere to allow HDR10? Thanks for any help!
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post #603 of 630 Old 03-08-2020, 09:55 AM
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Possibly an HDMI cable bandwidth issue (only seeing the projector as 4k30 SDR)?

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post #604 of 630 Old 03-08-2020, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Hopkins View Post
Possibly an HDMI cable bandwidth issue (only seeing the projector as 4k30 SDR)?
I believe my HDMI cable should be sufficient?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #605 of 630 Old 03-08-2020, 12:22 PM
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I tried 5 cables and only this one did the trick (4K 60hz HDR):


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07287LTRZ..._AxuzEbG5QTWED

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post #606 of 630 Old 03-08-2020, 12:39 PM
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Agreed, should be... but maybe try a short cable directly from your source device just in case?

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post #607 of 630 Old 03-09-2020, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Hopkins View Post
Agreed, should be... but maybe try a short cable directly from your source device just in case?
Some success tonight!

First, I found that by changing the Nvidia Shield's resolution setting to 4K 23.976Hz or even 1080p 59.940 Hz, I could now get Atmos. The 4K 59.940/60/50 Hz settings did NOT give me Atmos.

This was a good step, but the Shield ran slow at 4K 23.976Hz, which was annoying.

I did some more poking around in the Epson projector and my Denon receiver. I found The Denon had a 4K option for 'standard' and 'enhanced'. I switched it to enhanced, but doing so caused the video to go blank.

I had two runs of HDMI cable going to the projector, so decided to try the second one. This allowed me to successfully set the Denon to 'enhanced.'

Now, back to the Shield and i could successfully set the Shield's resolution to 4K 59.940 Hz. Dolby Atmos still working.

Yay! Lot's more questions about various 4K settings i see, but I've had enough for one night. :-)
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post #608 of 630 Old 03-21-2020, 07:43 AM
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Is input lag comparable on this to the 3700?

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post #609 of 630 Old 03-21-2020, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bungi43 View Post
Is input lag comparable on this to the 3700?
Yes.
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post #610 of 630 Old 03-26-2020, 11:05 AM
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I got my 3800 a few days ago.

I am very happy with the picture quality it gives, and it is indeed an easy one to set up. The lens shift just gives so much flexibility on where you can put it. I'm specifically happy about its performance with ambient light. Yes, with ambient lights on, the picture is kind of washed out just like any other projector will, but this projector is just so bright that, even with all curtains up (I have french windows for 2 sides of my room which means a hell lot of sun light will come in during the day), and with my light on the ceiling on, I have 0 trouble seeing the content projected. The image is a bit washed out and does not look nearly as good as when the room is pitch dark, but unlike the HT3550 that I tried before (which was washed out to a degree that it becomes unusable with ambient light on), 3800's image with ambient light is simply bright enough so if you're just using it as a daytime TV substitue, it does the job perfectly. It does not give the perfect black when the light is on, but what really matters is that you can always see the picture without trouble, which is all I ask for when it comes to daytime usage.

The gaming experience is awesome. I tried Hollow Knight, Stardew Valley, Overwatch (on PC @ 60hz), Assassin's Creed II (yea I love old games ), Sekiro, Human Fall Flat and a few other games. The HDR is good, and no input lag of any type can be sensed. TBF I can't even sense the input lag on HT3550 so I'm not the picky type of user when it comes to input lag. I don't really know how to set up HDR gaming on PC, and I don't have my PS4 pro with me right now. What I can say is, if you turn on the Windows HDR in display setting, the projector will recognize everything as an HDR input, and it looks great in most of the games that I tested except for Sekiro. It seems Sekiro on PC has some problems with its HDR mode.

One issue that concerns me is that my projector came in without the plastic lens cap that it should have. Does that imply I'm receiving an item that was returned/refurbished? I mean I'm okay with any returned or refurbished item and I buy a lot of them, but this one is supposed to be new, and if it's not, I think I should be notified. This missing lens cap makes me a bit uncomfortable. But The projector is working just fine, at least without any visible issue at the moment, so I guess I'll just live with it.

Last edited by Granny Lee; 03-26-2020 at 11:13 AM.
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post #611 of 630 Old 03-26-2020, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bidwood View Post
Thinking of upgrading from HC2100 (2500 lumens) to HC3800 (3000 lumens). It's a living room with a fair bit of ambient light and on balance I'd rather get more gains in daytime viewing than night. Night looks decent already and the HC3800 boasts 100,000:1 contrast ratio (v.s. 35,000:1 in the HC2100). While the HC2100 is decent, better daytime performance would be welcomed along with the 4K support. Has anyone else made the upgrade from HC2100 to HC3800 or similar and able to comment on the perceived improvements?

Also there's one thing I find kind of ambiguous about the brightness based on my screen size and throw distance using Projector Central's projection calculator: The HC2100 only shows estimated brightness in nits (330), whereas the HC3800 default's to Projector Central's estimate (146 nits) and has another tick box to see the manufacturer's specs (406 nits). I assume they have the two numbers for the HC3800 because they did a review on it. I also assume the HC2100's number (again, 330) is the manufacturing spec, which is the more direct comparison to the HC3800's manufacturing spec (406). Both would be close to the same percentage as their respective lumens. Does this sound correct?

Thanks in advance
I believe that many people on this forum will tell you not to use a projector for a living room with ambient light, but I think it really depends on your needs. I just got mine a few days ago and I've been mainly using it during the day, and my room is not just regularly bright - I would say it's extremely bright compared to most people's room. And I had no trouble using this projector during the day, with all the light on and the curtains opened. Of course if you turn of the lights the picture becomes better, but I can tell you that the image projected by 3800 is completely viewable even in the worst lighting scenario. I'm not a professional projector reviewer so I can't say with data how good it is performing, I'm just gonna say: It's simply watchable at all time and you won't need to worry about your ambient light washing it out, if that's what you want to know about this projector.
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post #612 of 630 Old 03-26-2020, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Granny Lee View Post
I believe that many people on this forum will tell you not to use a projector for a living room with ambient light, but I think it really depends on your needs. I just got mine a few days ago and I've been mainly using it during the day, and my room is not just regularly bright - I would say it's extremely bright compared to most people's room. And I had no trouble using this projector during the day, with all the light on and the curtains opened. Of course if you turn of the lights the picture becomes better, but I can tell you that the image projected by 3800 is completely viewable even in the worst lighting scenario. I'm not a professional projector reviewer so I can't say with data how good it is performing, I'm just gonna say: It's simply watchable at all time and you won't need to worry about your ambient light washing it out, if that's what you want to know about this projector.

Can you take some pictures of the screen with ambient light?
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post #613 of 630 Old 03-26-2020, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granny Lee View Post
I believe that many people on this forum will tell you not to use a projector for a living room with ambient light, but I think it really depends on your needs. I just got mine a few days ago and I've been mainly using it during the day, and my room is not just regularly bright - I would say it's extremely bright compared to most people's room. And I had no trouble using this projector during the day, with all the light on and the curtains opened. Of course if you turn of the lights the picture becomes better, but I can tell you that the image projected by 3800 is completely viewable even in the worst lighting scenario. I'm not a professional projector reviewer so I can't say with data how good it is performing, I'm just gonna say: It's simply watchable at all time and you won't need to worry about your ambient light washing it out, if that's what you want to know about this projector.
What works for one doesn't work for all. How much ambient light washout one can tolerate with a projected image is purely a matter of personal preference. Some people can be perfectly satisfied with an image washed out to a point that others would find totally unacceptable. Trying to tell others what will or won't work for them based on what does or doesn't work for us is an exercise in futility.
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post #614 of 630 Old 03-26-2020, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
What works for one doesn't work for all. How much ambient light washout one can tolerate with a projected image is purely a matter of personal preference. Some people can be perfectly satisfied with an image washed out to a point that others would find totally unacceptable. Trying to tell others what will or won't work for them based on what does or doesn't work for us is an exercise in futility.
Sounds about right. Then let me put it this way. Whether you find the picture quality with ambient light acceptable or not, one thing is clear: no matter how much ambient light you have there, you won't have any trouble seeing and understanding the content projected to your screen.
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post #615 of 630 Old 03-27-2020, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Granny Lee View Post
Sounds about right. Then let me put it this way. Whether you find the picture quality with ambient light acceptable or not, one thing is clear: no matter how much ambient light you have there, you won't have any trouble seeing and understanding the content projected to your screen.
Is your screen white or gray? Is it a ARL screen? You could add blackout fabric to your curtains. My wife did that to all of yours when she made them. It makes a big difference in controlling light in our living room and bedroom.

I am interested in the 3800 for a light controlled theater, basically a black cave. Would this be bright enough to light up a 152" 16:9 AT screen in light controlled room?

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post #616 of 630 Old 03-27-2020, 08:35 AM
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A screen over 150 inch is beyond my imagination. I can't tell how bright the projector needs to be to produce such a huge image, and no I won't have a dedicated home theatre room for this projector and won't have a pitch dark environment, hopefully you will find someone with a similar setup to yours to give you the information you need. But what I can say is that it IS a bright projector, probably one of the brightest at this price range, and if this is not bright enough to produce you a 150'' picture, I don't know what other options you have.

But to be honest, the brightness shouldn't be the biggest issue in your situation. You are trying to get an image that is over 150'', and when the picture gets bigger, the lack of pixel count on these Epson models will probably be more obvious than when you use them on a 100 or 120 inch screen. I think my 3800 looks basically as sharp as the HT3550 that I once used, but that's a comparison between two 100'' pictures. At 150'', however, it may be a different story. It is possible that you won't get a picture sharp enough to satisfy you with the Epson models that don't produce ~8m pixels.
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post #617 of 630 Old 03-27-2020, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Ladeback View Post
Is your screen white or gray? Is it a ARL screen? You could add blackout fabric to your curtains. My wife did that to all of yours when she made them. It makes a big difference in controlling light in our living room and bedroom.

I am interested in the 3800 for a light controlled theater, basically a black cave. Would this be bright enough to light up a 152" 16:9 AT screen in light controlled room?
Should be bright enough.

What kind of AT fabric?
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post #618 of 630 Old 03-27-2020, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
Should be bright enough.

What kind of AT fabric?
I was thinking of going with the XD from Seymour since I would be sitting back about 14' from a 152" 16:9 AT screen. The other option maybe is the refurbished 5040. I watch more sports and TV in my theater then movies and with a 152" screen the 2.35:1 screen would be plenty big. My finished ceiling height if I stay with my current layout would be around 103". I would put the bottom of the screen at around 20" from the ground.

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post #619 of 630 Old 03-27-2020, 10:04 AM
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I was thinking of going with the XD from Seymour since I would be sitting back about 14' from a 152" 16:9 AT screen. The other option maybe is the refurbished 5040. I watch more sports and TV in my theater then movies and with a 152" screen the 2.35:1 screen would be plenty big. My finished ceiling height if I stay with my current layout would be around 103". I would put the bottom of the screen at around 20" from the ground.
What color are the walls?

The XD has a gain of 0.95.

IF the room is treated for reflections (walls) the 5040UB can work. In SDR. For HDR it needs madrv or at least a Panasonic UB420. HTPC with madvr can't do streaming.


The surface square of an 152" screen in 16:9 format is 68.55 ft².
An 152" screen in 2.35:1 format fits in a 160.5" screen in 16:9. The 160" has 76.46 ft². The reason for doing the numbers for the 16:9 is unless you use an anaormphic lens, the brightness will be spread out over the entire 16:9 surface, even if the screen is 2.35:1.

With a new lamp, at 100% zoom, the 5040UB can put out ~1400 lumens in regular modes in Medium lamp (without DCI P3) filter, and the HC3800 up to ~2200 lumens in Medium lamp.

The light loss going from 100% zoom to 0% is ~27% with the 5040UB and ~8% with the HC3800.

Not going to do all the calculations.

For example for the 5040UB:
1400 / 68.55 (152" 16:9 screen) = 20fL
After 500h it's ~15fL.

10-15fL is recommended for SDR. For HDR it depends on the tone mapper. madvr can work with 15fL even 12 IMO.

Or use this calculator:
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

The HC3800 is ~10% less bright than the HC3700.

Other useful sites:
http://screen-size.info/
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calcu...calculator.php
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post #620 of 630 Old 03-27-2020, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
What color are the walls?

The XD has a gain of 0.95.

IF the room is treated for reflections (walls) the 5040UB can work. In SDR. For HDR it needs madrv or at least a Panasonic UB420. HTPC with madvr can't do streaming.


The surface square of an 152" screen in 16:9 format is 68.55 ft².
An 152" screen in 2.35:1 format fits in a 160.5" screen in 16:9. The 160" has 76.46 ft². The reason for doing the numbers for the 16:9 is unless you use an anaormphic lens, the brightness will be spread out over the entire 16:9 surface, even if the screen is 2.35:1.

With a new lamp, at 100% zoom, the 5040UB can put out ~1400 lumens in regular modes in Medium lamp (without DCI P3) filter, and the HC3800 up to ~2200 lumens in Medium lamp.

The light loss going from 100% zoom to 0% is ~27% with the 5040UB and ~8% with the HC3800.

Not going to do all the calculations.

For example for the 5040UB:
1400 / 68.55 (152" 16:9 screen) = 20fL
After 500h it's ~15fL.

10-15fL is recommended for SDR. For HDR it depends on the tone mapper. madvr can work with 15fL even 12 IMO.

Or use this calculator:
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

The HC3800 is ~10% less bright than the HC3700.

Other useful sites:
http://screen-size.info/
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calcu...calculator.php
As for my walls, the room is not done, but was planing on paining the front wall and ceiling black, with black velvet panels around the screen where there isn't any speakers. Also was going to maybe add 4' wide velvet side panels floor to ceiling and paint the room a dark red.

Thanks for the info and I have looked at some of them before, but are you saying the 3800 would be better then the 5040? I have thought of going with a large scope screen and a 16:9 screen inside of it as well. Probably will wait til I finish the room to decide on screen and projector. I have an idea where I want my seats and how many so I could get my speakers laid out and figure out where to mount the projector. I current;y have a Epson 2040 and an Elite 120" 16:9 white screen with a 1 for gain.

Room size I have now unfinished is 14'x25.83'x8.83'. If I was to push one wall out 3' feet to go to 17' I would go with a scope screen since I have a beam to get under.

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post #621 of 630 Old 03-27-2020, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Ladeback View Post
As for my walls, the room is not done, but was planing on paining the front wall and ceiling black, with black velvet panels around the screen where there isn't any speakers. Also was going to maybe add 4' wide velvet side panels floor to ceiling and paint the room a dark red.

Thanks for the info and I have looked at some of them before, but are you saying the 3800 would be better then the 5040? I have thought of going with a large scope screen and a 16:9 screen inside of it as well. Probably will wait til I finish the room to decide on screen and projector. I have an idea where I want my seats and how many so I could get my speakers laid out and figure out where to mount the projector. I current;y have a Epson 2040 and an Elite 120" 16:9 white screen with a 1 for gain.

Room size I have now unfinished is 14'x25.83'x8.83'. If I was to push one wall out 3' feet to go to 17' I would go with a scope screen since I have a beam to get under.
Since you already have a projector you should have an idea of how big the screen should be and from what distance. The 4K will make some difference, but Epson's technology is only ~4m pixels vs ~2m for 1080p. So you might see a screen door effect if the screen is too large or the seats are too close.
Might want to hold on on the screen size and fabric until you get the projector.

The 5040UB's tone mapper is old and will be too dark at 150". Even the 5050UB's HDR tone mapper may not be satisfying.

In that room a projector with good black level like the UB series can work. The HC3800 has poorer black level, but is ~30% brighter.
Not sure, but I think the tone mapper is relatively the same between the 5050UB and HC3800. @DaGamePimp had a HC3800 with a 1.0 screen in 133" diagonal. Maybe he can provide some insight on how it would fare with a 150/160" 16:9 screen.

The 420/820/9000 (last two have Dolby Vision) are said to be better than the 5050UB's tone mapper. The Panasonic's have some streaming services.
All of these tone mappers are static. It works by taking the highest brightness in the movie and tone maps to that. So you have to change the slider manually.

Dynamic tone mappers exist on latest JVC generation, a HTPC with madvr (no streaming), the upcoming madvrEnvy. Unfortunately external boxes like the Envy are very expensive.

So for SDR the 5040UB is bright enough. But for HDR it depends on the source. Not even the Panasonic might be bright enough for that screen size. @skylarlove1999 has a 5050UB and a Panasonic. Can't remember what screen size. Maybe he can advise.

The 5040UB also has a 10GB HDMI. Which means it can't do 4K HDR 60Hz, only 24/30. For gaming and some streaming services 60Hz is required. Dropping the bit depth to 8bit from 10 so it can fit the 10GB bandwidth can result in banding in some cases.

Personally in that room I would aim to get the best picture quality, which IMO means contrast /black level.
So an Epson UB series and a UB420/others or a NX5/RS1000 (+ madvr) and manage the screen size accordingly. If the AT requirement can be dropped a white screen with positive gain can be used, either from a manufacturer or painted.
Actual white screens with positive gain in that size are expensive like the ST130 G4 with 1.3 gain.
Paints are much cheaper and can result in a great screen. The entire wall could be painted.
No painted AT screens unfortunately.

LE:
Positive gain AT screens, are even more expensive. I'm only familiar with ALR screens that have this specification. The problem with angular ALR screens is that the projector needs to be placed further back to avoid visual artifacts. If originally to get the best brightness the projector would be placed as close as possible, placing it further back would mean loss of brightness and generally speaking negate the screen's positive gain advantage. ALR screens can come with other visual related issues.

Although if you didn't plan to place the projector closest to the screen then one of these positive gain ALR screens might have an advantage.

Last edited by noob00224; 03-27-2020 at 11:22 AM.
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post #622 of 630 Old 03-29-2020, 05:28 PM
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I believe that many people on this forum will tell you not to use a projector for a living room with ambient light, but I think it really depends on your needs. I just got mine a few days ago and I've been mainly using it during the day, and my room is not just regularly bright - I would say it's extremely bright compared to most people's room. And I had no trouble using this projector during the day, with all the light on and the curtains opened. Of course if you turn of the lights the picture becomes better, but I can tell you that the image projected by 3800 is completely viewable even in the worst lighting scenario. I'm not a professional projector reviewer so I can't say with data how good it is performing, I'm just gonna say: It's simply watchable at all time and you won't need to worry about your ambient light washing it out, if that's what you want to know about this projector.

Thanks! This is definitely helpful and good to know. I have a feeling it's exactly what I'm looking for with the better brightness and contrast than HC2100. The HDR and pixel-shifting '4K' are appealing too.


People are raising good points about varying levels of tolerance for the 'wash out'. Even under the worst viewing conditions in my space, I'll take the wash out I do get over TV drawbacks ANY DAY. TV screen reflections are 1000x worse as are poor black and grey uniformity. The truth is dark scenes on all display tech seem to suffer when viewing in a bright room. For me, projectors suffer the least. And I believe upgrading from HC2100 to HC3800 will probably improve this daytime viewing. It's definitely down to this and the upcoming Optoma UHD50X at this point. Waiting for reviews on the Optoma but I'm much less optimistic about its brightness for now.





Question for everyone with this projector: How many of you have experience flickering of the projected image? I get it from time to time on my HC2100 and as predicted it tends to go away by switching from Eco to Normal power modes for a while. Though the Normal mode is annoyingly loud.
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post #623 of 630 Old 03-30-2020, 03:32 AM
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Thanks! This is definitely helpful and good to know. I have a feeling it's exactly what I'm looking for with the better brightness and contrast than HC2100. The HDR and pixel-shifting '4K' are appealing too.


People are raising good points about varying levels of tolerance for the 'wash out'. Even under the worst viewing conditions in my space, I'll take the wash out I do get over TV drawbacks ANY DAY. TV screen reflections are 1000x worse as are poor black and grey uniformity. The truth is dark scenes on all display tech seem to suffer when viewing in a bright room. For me, projectors suffer the least. And I believe upgrading from HC2100 to HC3800 will probably improve this daytime viewing. It's definitely down to this and the upcoming Optoma UHD50X at this point. Waiting for reviews on the Optoma but I'm much less optimistic about its brightness for now.





Question for everyone with this projector: How many of you have experience flickering of the projected image? I get it from time to time on my HC2100 and as predicted it tends to go away by switching from Eco to Normal power modes for a while. Though the Normal mode is annoyingly loud.
TV's will suffer less than a projector setup.

Lamp flicker is a common issue. The projector should be kept on High lamp for the first 100h, and ~100h every 500h or so.
If the lamp flicker can't be fixed, best to get a new lamp since it can explode and cause other issues.

Check out this post:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post57363110
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... The truth is dark scenes on all display tech seem to suffer when viewing in a bright room. For me, projectors suffer the least. And I believe upgrading from HC2100 to HC3800 will probably improve this daytime viewing. It's definitely down to this and the upcoming Optoma UHD50X at this point. Waiting for reviews on the Optoma but I'm much less optimistic about its brightness for now. ...
Many comparison reviews of comparable 3LCD vs. DLP models conclude that the DLP model has the advantage in a dark theater setting while the 3LCD model has the advantage in ambient light. 3LCD's main advantage in ambient light is that even in brightest mode it produces equal color and white lumens whereas in brighter modes DLP reduces color lumens in order to produce brighter whites. So in your case of viewing in ambient light the 3LCD HC3800 should have an advantage over the DLP UHD50X, especially in the area of color brightness.
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TV's will suffer less than a projector setup.

Lamp flicker is a common issue. The projector should be kept on High lamp for the first 100h, and ~100h every 500h or so.
If the lamp flicker can't be fixed, best to get a new lamp since it can explode and cause other issues.

Check out this post:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post57363110

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the TVs. But I'm prepared to eat my words if MicroLED ends up delivering on its promise. I can live with reflections of the uniformity issues are gone, and then the supreme brightness alongside perfect blacks would be pretty stunning. And it looks like the sizes are starting at 75". Just have to take out a mortgage for one when they first hit the consumer market.



Thanks for the helpful info on lamp flicker. It does go away when I switch to normal power mode. How do I know if the lamp is going to explode??? :O






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Many comparison reviews of comparable 3LCD vs. DLP models conclude that the DLP model has the advantage in a dark theater setting while the 3LCD model has the advantage in ambient light. 3LCD's main advantage in ambient light is that even in brightest mode it produces equal color and white lumens whereas in brighter modes DLP reduces color lumens in order to produce brighter whites. So in your case of viewing in ambient light the 3LCD HC3800 should have an advantage over the DLP UHD50X, especially in the area of color brightness.

Thanks for this. It makes perfect sense
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Thanks for the helpful info on lamp flicker. It does go away when I switch to normal power mode. How do I know if the lamp is going to explode?

No way to know for sure. How many hours does the lamp have?

My lamp blew up at ~3500h, and it would not stop flickering on anything other than Full Lamp, even after keeping it for a few hundred hours on Full.
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Hi, is it gonna be problematic if I don't change the bulb before it dies? Is it gonna damage other parts of the projector, so I have to monitor its status carefully and switch it out before it blows up? Thanks
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Hi, is it gonna be problematic if I don't change the bulb before it dies? Is it gonna damage other parts of the projector, so I have to monitor its status carefully and switch it out before it blows up? Thanks
No one can predict when or if the lamp will explode. Which is why it should be changed as soon as possible and keep this one as a spare. The internals can be damaged if the lamp explodes.
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Red face

I've just used my projector for around 50 hours. I'm just wondering if there is a way to record the time of usage of the bulb so I can replace it when it gets close to the end of its life?
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I've just used my projector for around 50 hours. I'm just wondering if there is a way to record the time of usage of the bulb so I can replace it when it gets close to the end of its life?
The lamp hours should be in the menu.
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