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post #1 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Choosing projector and screen for room help?

We are considering installing a 100-120” screen in our basement bar/game room. The room where the screen would be located is 21 ft front to back and 18 ft wide. Ceiling height is 7’6”.
I’m looking at a drop down screen that would be mounted against the ceiling and most of the 120” units seem to be around 59” so that leaves me 30-31” above floor.
My main concern is approx how far from the screen will the projector likely be mounted and will I be able to keep it tight to the ceiling? 1 window rear of room and 8 dimmable recessed lights overhead.

Anything else I need to consider?
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post #2 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by psw757 View Post
We are considering installing a 100-120” screen in our basement bar/game room. The room where the screen would be located is 21 ft front to back and 18 ft wide. Ceiling height is 7’6”.
I’m looking at a drop down screen that would be mounted against the ceiling and most of the 120” units seem to be around 59” so that leaves me 30-31” above floor.
My main concern is approx how far from the screen will the projector likely be mounted and will I be able to keep it tight to the ceiling? 1 window rear of room and 8 dimmable recessed lights overhead.

Anything else I need to consider?
Screen diagonal should be chosen after the projector has been used for a while.

How far is the seating distance?

Have you decided on a projector?

How much ambient light will there be during regular viewing? Will there be any viewing in the dark?

Color of walls?


Some projectors have lens shift which allows for some flexibility, like this 5050UB. After inputting the screen size, at the bottom of the page there is a section called lens shift:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Eps...UBe-Review.htm

Others have little lens shift and must be mounted above or below the screen. The calculator shows the position of the projector relative to the screen:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...ulator-pro.htm

These calculator also show how far away the units must be placed from the screen.

Depending on the model, going from positioning the unit closest to the screen to furthest, there will be some brightness loss. So mounting it closest will give you the brightest image. Unless the screen is an ALR type that requires more distance between the projector and screen.



What is the regular use? Movies, sports, video games? What percentage?

1080p or 4K?

Budget?
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post #3 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
Screen diagonal should be chosen after the projector has been used for a while.

How far is the seating distance?

Have you decided on a projector?

How much ambient light will there be during regular viewing? Will there be any viewing in the dark?

Color of walls?


Some projectors have lens shift which allows for some flexibility, like this 5050UB. After inputting the screen size, at the bottom of the page there is a section called lens shift:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Eps...UBe-Review.htm

Others have little lens shift and must be mounted above or below the screen. The calculator shows the position of the projector relative to the screen:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...ulator-pro.htm

These calculator also show how far away the units must be placed from the screen.

Depending on the model, going from positioning the unit closest to the screen to furthest, there will be some brightness loss. So mounting it closest will give you the brightest image. Unless the screen is an ALR type that requires more distance between the projector and screen.



What is the regular use? Movies, sports, video games? What percentage?

1080p or 4K?

Budget?
Room is 21 feet deep and front row of seating can be as close as 10-12 feet second row behind that to a max of 21ft or anything in between first row and wall.

Haven’t decided on projector yet but want something where it is up out of the way and will still project a 110-120” image.

Ambient lighting... there is one window that is in rear far side left and has treatments for shade. Other than that 8 recessed lights above scattered about viewing area and bar area to left of viewing area. All dimmable as well.

Wall tv screen will be on is a deep merlot color and colors to the rear are a tan type color.

Mainly watch live sports and movies

As for the 4K vs 1080 setup. At the moment only have a Blu-ray player and fios is our hdtv provider. Not opposed to either however if 1080 it needs to be a good projector. 4K would need to be on the bottom end of budget as I don’t want to spend more than 3k on this project. Will be using existing audio so don’t need to worry about that.

Hopefully this answers more about the room and intended use.
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post #4 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psw757 View Post
Room is 21 feet deep and front row of seating can be as close as 10-12 feet second row behind that to a max of 21ft or anything in between first row and wall.

Haven’t decided on projector yet but want something where it is up out of the way and will still project a 110-120” image.

Ambient lighting... there is one window that is in rear far side left and has treatments for shade. Other than that 8 recessed lights above scattered about viewing area and bar area to left of viewing area. All dimmable as well.

Wall tv screen will be on is a deep merlot color and colors to the rear are a tan type color.

Mainly watch live sports and movies

As for the 4K vs 1080 setup. At the moment only have a Blu-ray player and fios is our hdtv provider. Not opposed to either however if 1080 it needs to be a good projector. 4K would need to be on the bottom end of budget as I don’t want to spend more than 3k on this project. Will be using existing audio so don’t need to worry about that.

Hopefully this answers more about the room and intended use.
But what percentage sports vs. movies?

Movies to be watched with lights off?
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post #5 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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But what percentage sports vs. movies?

Movies to be watched with lights off?
I’d say 70 percent sports and 30 percent movies but I think movie percentage would increase having the big screen.

Movies would be lights off or at the most very very dim and agin only lighting is recessed from above and the closest light recessed in the ceiling is probably 5-6 in from the wall the screen would be on.
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I’d say 70 percent sports and 30 percent movies but I think movie percentage would increase having the big screen.

Movies would be lights off or at the most very very dim and agin only lighting is recessed from above and the closest light recessed in the ceiling is probably 5-6 in from the wall the screen would be on.
100-120" is rather small from those viewing distances. What is recommended is to use the projector for a while until the right size is found. General ratio would be 10-12" in diagonal for every foot in distance. An average between the two rows is ~13-14', so something like 130-150".

Unless you're going to play video games get the Benq TK850 or Optoma UHD52ALV.
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...ulator-pro.htm
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Opt...ulator-pro.htm

This is a UHD52ALV on a 200" diagonal on a grey painted wall.

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110”-120” is as big as I can go since room is shared with bar area to left and a hallway to game area to the front right section. Any bigger and right side of screen would potentially get clipped by wall to hallway and speaker placement wouldn’t be ideal on front right.

It’s 85” tv or 110-120” projector.
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post #8 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by psw757 View Post
110”-120” is as big as I can go since room is shared with bar area to left and a hallway to game area to the front right section. Any bigger and right side of screen would potentially get clipped by wall to hallway and speaker placement wouldn’t be ideal on front right.

It’s 85” tv or 110-120” projector.
It's still the two models in the previous post.
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post #9 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 02:28 PM
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Why a drop screen? Fixed screens are cheaper and are guarantied to not wrinkle or curl as many drop screens do eventually.

"Smart enough to know better, to old to care" ------ Dedicated Bat Cave Home Theater, JVC RS49U/BenQ 3550 Projectors, 110" 16:9 Jamestown screen with variable power masking for CIW 2.50:1 to 16:9, Denon 4500H with 7.1.4 Atmos with Ohm mains, SVS PB2000, 3 DIY Subs (2 15" (1 ported, 1 sealed and a 12" 4th order bandpass), 1 DIY butt kicker, Custom Built HTPC, 18TB DroboFS NAS
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post #10 of 36 Old 06-02-2020, 02:38 PM
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With lower basement ceilings and a ceiling mounted projector I like to find something where the projector throw distance matches the seating distance. In other words if the projector is right above your head in the first row there is less chance of someone whacking it by reaching up while standing.

As to 120” screen and sitting 10-12’ away some may like more immersion but that’s going to be a nice big impressive image I think. The need for 4k also becomes less if you are not right on top of the screen. A 1080p image will look amazing and it sounds like that’s what your content is as well. I stayed with 1080p for those reasons and it saves a bunch of money.

The BenQ HT2050A will do a 120” image from between 10-13’. When mounted upside down the center of the lens should be 4” above the image. With the screen having some black drop on the top that should get you pretty close and I would even want the image a little lower than what you mentioned.

This projector along with a few other makes and models are tried and true 1080p true HT DLP projectors and are great values IMO.

I would go with a white 1.0-1.3 gain screen if you are expecting to keep the light well controlled in the room or a simple gray .7-.8 gain if you want to help your blacks just a little with a little more light in the room. It should have enough brightness to do both I would think. I’m a fan of gray screens but without seeing your room or a picture of it, hard to tell.

Good luck and welcome to front projection.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...ulator-pro.htm

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...50A-review.htm

Bud
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@psw757 alternatively go for an Epson 5040/5050UB. They don't have the motion handling of DLP but are fine. Picture quality wise they are much superior, with better black level. They are both 4K but can be used in 1080p mode. They are also bright.

The 5040UB has a 10GB HDMI which means no 4K HDR 60Hz, 24/30 at the most. Some streaming services/boxes require 60Hz. This can be overcome with a HDfury Linker.
It's HDR tone mapping can be improved by a Panasonic UB420. Overall this is a very good package, and almost half the cost of the 5050UB.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-f...-151-00-a.html

The Epsons motion interpolation is limited to 1080p24Hz, but I've seen a report that it can also do 1080p60Hz. The DLPs above can do MI at 4K as well, but not sure if they can do 4K60Hz with motion interpolation. So for sports it depends what the source is, resolution and refresh rate.

In that room I recommend an ALR screen if it's fixed or a white screen if it's electric/manual drop down. Grey/ALR drop down screens are more expensive. If the ALR screen will be used then the projector will have to be placed ~1.8x or more throw ratio (screen width), lens to screen. This is to avoid artifacts. No light sources from the same direction as the projector must be present. An ALR screen will help significantly during the lights on and improve blacks and contrast with lights off.
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post #12 of 36 Old 06-03-2020, 05:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Why a drop screen? Fixed screens are cheaper and are guarantied to not wrinkle or curl as many drop screens do eventually.
Prefer the drop screen since the screen is in a multi use bar area that adjoins a large game area. This will allow me to have some art on the wall while not in use.

Don’t really like the idea of having a giant screen visible all the time.
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With lower basement ceilings and a ceiling mounted projector I like to find something where the projector throw distance matches the seating distance. In other words if the projector is right above your head in the first row there is less chance of someone whacking it by reaching up while standing.

As to 120” screen and sitting 10-12’ away some may like more immersion but that’s going to be a nice big impressive image I think. The need for 4k also becomes less if you are not right on top of the screen. A 1080p image will look amazing and it sounds like that’s what your content is as well. I stayed with 1080p for those reasons and it saves a bunch of money.

The BenQ HT2050A will do a 120” image from between 10-13’. When mounted upside down the center of the lens should be 4” above the image. With the screen having some black drop on the top that should get you pretty close and I would even want the image a little lower than what you mentioned.

This projector along with a few other makes and models are tried and true 1080p true HT DLP projectors and are great values IMO.

I would go with a white 1.0-1.3 gain screen if you are expecting to keep the light well controlled in the room or a simple gray .7-.8 gain if you want to help your blacks just a little with a little more light in the room. It should have enough brightness to do both I would think. I’m a fan of gray screens but without seeing your room or a picture of it, hard to tell.

Good luck and welcome to front projection.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...ulator-pro.htm

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...50A-review.htm
Projector placement seems to be the toughest thing to figure out as in my room it can go really anywhere without limitation. Can be super short throw up close, over first row 10-12 ft or on a shelf back wall at 21 ft.

Don’t want to pick a projector to find it can’t be placed where I want it. Is the back wall a bad idea at 21ft?
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@psw757 alternatively go for an Epson 5040/5050UB. They don't have the motion handling of DLP but are fine. Picture quality wise they are much superior, with better black level. They are both 4K but can be used in 1080p mode. They are also bright.

The 5040UB has a 10GB HDMI which means no 4K HDR 60Hz, 24/30 at the most. Some streaming services/boxes require 60Hz. This can be overcome with a HDfury Linker.
It's HDR tone mapping can be improved by a Panasonic UB420. Overall this is a very good package, and almost half the cost of the 5050UB.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-f...-151-00-a.html

The Epsons motion interpolation is limited to 1080p24Hz, but I've seen a report that it can also do 1080p60Hz. The DLPs above can do MI at 4K as well, but not sure if they can do 4K60Hz with motion interpolation. So for sports it depends what the source is, resolution and refresh rate.

In that room I recommend an ALR screen if it's fixed or a white screen if it's electric/manual drop down. Grey/ALR drop down screens are more expensive. If the ALR screen will be used then the projector will have to be placed ~1.8x or more throw ratio (screen width), lens to screen. This is to avoid artifacts. No light sources from the same direction as the projector must be present. An ALR screen will help significantly during the lights on and improve blacks and contrast with lights off.
Any thoughts on the elite spectrum 2 motorized unit? I would be going with the black cannister housing.

I think they also released a new alr manual pull down screen that I am considering too. Sent them an email for model number. I believe they showed it at CES 2020.

Last edited by psw757; 06-03-2020 at 05:49 AM.
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post #15 of 36 Old 06-03-2020, 07:00 AM
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Projector placement seems to be the toughest thing to figure out as in my room it can go really anywhere without limitation. Can be super short throw up close, over first row 10-12 ft or on a shelf back wall at 21 ft.

Don’t want to pick a projector to find it can’t be placed where I want it. Is the back wall a bad idea at 21ft?
The very long throw is great in a dedicated home theater where everyone is seated and their heads then don’t stick up to cast a shadow on the bottom of the screen. In a multi use room where people deeper in the room might be moving around during a sporting event will cast shadows on the screen. Take a string and run it from where the projector would be to the bottom edge of the screen. if that string doesn’t look to be in the way then it would be a fine option.

On the other hand ultra short throws are the thing now. They cost more and are harder to get perfectly lined up and any wave in the screen is made greater ruling out even tab tensioned screens for the most part. They also work best with the new and expensive ceiling light rejecting fixed screens.

For the above reasons I made the suggestion I did for something overhead for the main first row seating.

Bud
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The very long throw is great in a dedicated home theater where everyone is seated and their heads then don’t stick up to cast a shadow on the bottom of the screen. In a multi use room where people deeper in the room might be moving around during a sporting event will cast shadows on the screen. Take a string and run it from where the projector would be to the bottom edge of the screen. if that string doesn’t look to be in the way then it would be a fine option.

On the other hand ultra short throws are the thing now. They cost more and are harder to get perfectly lined up and any wave in the screen is made greater ruling out even tab tensioned screens for the most part. They also work best with the new and expensive ceiling light rejecting fixed screens.

For the above reasons I made the suggestion I did for something overhead for the main first row seating.
Great points and the second row likely won’t be up against the back wall so there maybe some movement activity in the rear.

Over the seating is probably best setup
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Will you be building a riser for the back row seating? Risers get tough with lower ceilings.

Lots of FP is tradeoffs no one likes the looks of a projector hanging down in the middle of a room, but then again shadows can get annoying also.

You mentioned not liking the look of a framed screen on the wall. An option I use is I painted my entire wall to be a stealth screen wall. It just looks like a gray accent wall when not in use. Of course the area where the image will be cant have any artwork etc. I do what is called self masking and I just let whatever the projector sends out mask itself. makes setup easy as there is nothing to line up, and it also lets different aspect ratio movies just fill as much of the wall as I like. It is also a good method to experiment with different sizes until you do buy a screen.

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Will you be building a riser for the back row seating? Risers get tough with lower ceilings.

Lots of FP is tradeoffs no one likes the looks of a projector hanging down in the middle of a room, but then again shadows can get annoying also.

You mentioned not liking the look of a framed screen on the wall. An option I use is I painted my entire wall to be a stealth screen wall. It just looks like a gray accent wall when not in use. Of course the area where the image will be cant have any artwork etc. I do what is called self masking and I just let whatever the projector sends out mask itself. makes setup easy as there is nothing to line up, and it also lets different aspect ratio movies just fill as much of the wall as I like. It is also a good method to experiment with different sizes until you do buy a screen.
My seating will either be two rows of two or two rows of three seats. Not sure yet, only 4 of us here and for sports I have about 10 bar stools at the bar the are well within the viewing angles.

I’m thinking I need a minimal riser maybe 8”. Ceiling height is 7’7”. Not sure how second row would see without one.

I agree about a projector being in center of room. If over seating it won’t be near any walkways or anywhere it could get hit. I’m thinking placement over first row should be ok even if second row is on riser of 8”. Ideally a mount that gets it as tight as possible to ceiling, we have a drop ceiling.
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My seating will either be two rows of two or two rows of three seats. Not sure yet, only 4 of us here and for sports I have about 10 bar stools at the bar the are well within the viewing angles.

I’m thinking I need a minimal riser maybe 8”. Ceiling height is 7’7”. Not sure how second row would see without one.

I agree about a projector being in center of room. If over seating it won’t be near any walkways or anywhere it could get hit. I’m thinking placement over first row should be ok even if second row is on riser of 8”. Ideally a mount that gets it as tight as possible to ceiling, we have a drop ceiling.
Yes some of the mount can and should go above the drop ceiling and into the floor joists for support. The ceiling panel can be cut to go around the drop tube and then follow the projectors instruction for air flow distance. Getting a projector where the air is taken in one side and blown out the other is good.

The BenQ I suggested has a very good fan dB level and that is important when the projector is right above your head.

Only you can decide if you want 4k or 1080p and I wont get into how there is a big difference when going between the two and to projector specs DLP compared to other systems etc. There are projectors in all types in both resolutions to pick from now unlike a year ago it was limited. We don’t also know what will be in a few years when you might want to upgrade as well.

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Any thoughts on the elite spectrum 2 motorized unit? I would be going with the black cannister housing.

I think they also released a new alr manual pull down screen that I am considering too. Sent them an email for model number. I believe they showed it at CES 2020.
Not sure of the quality of the motorized unit, not the screen fabric I mean.
Thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...thread-83.html

As I mentioned ALR requires 1.8-1.9x throw ratio to avoid artifacts. The UB series will wipe the floor with any projector mentioned here in terms of picture quality, with the drawbacks mentioned earlier. The 5040UB refurb with 2 years warranty from Epson is a fantastic deal. These projectors are $3K when they come out. Very good for movies.
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post #21 of 36 Old 06-03-2020, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Not sure of the quality of the motorized unit, not the screen fabric I mean.
Thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...thread-83.html

As I mentioned ALR requires 1.8-1.9x throw ratio to avoid artifacts. The UB series will wipe the floor with any projector mentioned here in terms of picture quality, with the drawbacks mentioned earlier. The 5040UB refurb with 2 years warranty from Epson is a fantastic deal. These projectors are $3K when they come out. Very good for movies.
The new elite screens alr is a manual pull. This is likely my first choice.

Model is mt106uhd5

After getting the official specs for the weight bar and screen specs this is as big as I can go.

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Question on the projectors

I’ve been thinking about the 1080 vs 4K a bit and the thing that has me scratching my head is nothing we watch is in 4K whether it be live sports and our movie collection is all std blu Ray. Do see myself buying all new discs.

The one source that regularly gets used that I’m pretty sure is 4K is disney plus.

Would I be better going with a high end 1080 vs the entry to mid range 4K? Keep in mind viewing distance on this 106” screen will be no closer than 11-12 ft and second row I’m guessing 15-16 ft.
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post #23 of 36 Old 06-03-2020, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by psw757 View Post
Question on the projectors

I’ve been thinking about the 1080 vs 4K a bit and the thing that has me scratching my head is nothing we watch is in 4K whether it be live sports and our movie collection is all std blu Ray. Do see myself buying all new discs.

The one source that regularly gets used that I’m pretty sure is 4K is disney plus.

Would I be better going with a high end 1080 vs the entry to mid range 4K? Keep in mind viewing distance on this 106” screen will be no closer than 11-12 ft and second row I’m guessing 15-16 ft.
From the projectors mentioned here, none are high end. 1080p high end would be some JVC or possibly Sony, and both of them are only found used. Not going to go into details about the JVC and Sony.

What usually makes a projector high end the ability to deliver high contrast / low black floor, among others. In your setup since there will always be some sort of ambient light, even small, and while the walls are not white they are still not covered with black velvet, that advantage will be reduced.

Mid range projectors would be something like the UB series from Epson. The 5040UB refurb comes from Epson with warranty. Your room conditions will still affect it's black level/contrast.

Low range are the DLPs mentioned.


The DLPs have better motion handling, but poorer presentation when it comes to movies. With your setup though, referring to the always present ambient light, the difference between them an the others is smaller.

I suggest the Epson UB series, an ALR screen, but turn off any lights when watching movies, or anything that has dark scenes in it.
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post #24 of 36 Old 06-03-2020, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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From the projectors mentioned here, none are high end. 1080p high end would be some JVC or possibly Sony, and both of them are only found used. Not going to go into details about the JVC and Sony.

What usually makes a projector high end the ability to deliver high contrast / low black floor, among others. In your setup since there will always be some sort of ambient light, even small, and while the walls are not white they are still not covered with black velvet, that advantage will be reduced.

Mid range projectors would be something like the UB series from Epson. The 5040UB refurb comes from Epson with warranty. Your room conditions will still affect it's black level/contrast.

Low range are the DLPs mentioned.


The DLPs have better motion handling, but poorer presentation when it comes to movies. With your setup though, referring to the always present ambient light, the difference between them an the others is smaller.

I suggest the Epson UB series, an ALR screen, but turn off any lights when watching movies, or anything that has dark scenes in it.
Ok..for some reason I was thinking a 1080 in the price point of the 2-3 4K units you mentioned might offer the higher contrast.

Just to be clear, watching movies at night it could be pitch black in room and during day it is pretty dark with blinds shut and curtain drawn.

During day may have the recessed lights on dim while watching sports and enjoying a beer or two that’s all.
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Ok..for some reason I was thinking a 1080 in the price point of the 2-3 4K units you mentioned might offer the higher contrast.

Just to be clear, watching movies at night it could be pitch black in room and during day it is pretty dark with blinds shut and curtain drawn.

During day may have the recessed lights on dim while watching sports and enjoying a beer or two that’s all.
For sports it matters much less.

I didn't mention any 1080p units. The JVCs would be the highest contrast, but they are not the best for motion handling. They're also used and lamps can be $500 or higher, dim quicker, depends on the model. For the cost of the 5040 refurb you get a lot of projector.

Sony does have good motion handling and somewhat better contrast than the 5040, but it's 1080p only and used. I mean you can find it new but it's expensive:
https://www.google.com/search?source...=psy-ab&uact=5
https://www.google.com/search?source...=psy-ab&uact=5
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For sports it matters much less.

I didn't mention any 1080p units. The JVCs would be the highest contrast, but they are not the best for motion handling. They're also used and lamps can be $500 or higher, dim quicker, depends on the model. For the cost of the 5040 refurb you get a lot of projector.

Sony does have good motion handling and somewhat better contrast than the 5040, but it's 1080p only and used. I mean you can find it new but it's expensive:
https://www.google.com/search?source...=psy-ab&uact=5
https://www.google.com/search?source...=psy-ab&uact=5
Gotcha...the price of the two you mentioned are in the budget. Just thinking out loud.
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Gotcha...the price of the two you mentioned are in the budget. Just thinking out loud.
Those are way overpriced. The HW45 does not have an iris and is $2K. The HW65 has an iris and is $2.5K. Btw the difference in contrast between the 5040 and HW45 is ~10% in Sony favor. The 5040 has an iris and the HW45 does. The HW65 also does.

The 5040 has 4K, extra color gamut, is brighter, has motion interpolation (for 1080p24Hz), and is almost half the price of the HW45.

The Sony's new are not worth it.

If you're looking at the HW65, the 5050UB is right around the corner. Maybe wait for a sale. But since you're not sure about 4K even, the cost of the 5040 refurb is unbeatable.
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Those are way overpriced. The HW45 does not have an iris and is $2K. The HW65 has an iris and is $2.5K. Btw the difference in contrast between the 5040 and HW45 is ~10% in Sony favor. The 5040 has an iris and the HW45 does. The HW65 also does.

The 5040 has 4K, extra color gamut, is brighter, has motion interpolation (for 1080p24Hz), and is almost half the price of the HW45.

The Sony's new are not worth it.

If you're looking at the HW65, the 5050UB is right around the corner. Maybe wait for a sale. But since you're not sure about 4K even, the cost of the 5040 refurb is unbeatable.
I was referring to the first two you mentioned off the top of my head $14-$1600 is what I saw.
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Here are the docs for the 106” screen I looking at. I have a 91” ceiling and I’m thinking bottom of screen/weight will be 30-32” off floor. housing mounted on wall against ceiling.
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The trouble with progressing technology like this is when 4k came out manufactures shifted all their energy into the new tech. No one wants a high end 1080p projector they have high budgets and want a high end 4k projector. The second market is for people like me that have long ago become late adopters to tech. My ah ha moment came when I spent $800 on a VHS recorder to be the first to have one in my town. That was in today’s dollar was about 3 weeks pay. Fast forward a few years and I was seeing them at garage sales for a buck and no one wanted them. I’m happy to lag behind and spend about 1/3 for tech that people were fighting over and raving about less than two years before.

I have no idea if 1080p is right for you. For a first projector and to get your feet wet and learn more doing in a week than you could learn in a year reading it might be worth it. At your seating distance first row with a 106” screen you will be blown away both ways with light control.

The point above trying to be made is there is two types of light control. One is room lights on dimmers and a little light leaking in from outside. The second is the projector itself it will light your room up like daytime and if your walls and ceiling are reflecting light some of it will bounce around and find its way back to the screen. We call this rebound ambient light. The room itself plays a big part in what is black on the screen. Projectors don’t project black they just try and send out no light. So black will look like the screen looks with whatever light is in the room. If part of the image is bright and lighting up the room the black will look like your white screen looks with that amount of light.

Band width and streaming play a part as well 4k sucks up 4X the bandwidth so depending on how much you watch and how fast your internet is and what plan you are on could also be factored in.

I paid under 500 bucks for my projector and have a 110” screen. We sit 8’ away and when we have company for a new release BD movie they all have 60”+ 4k flat screen TVs at home and they go nuts feeling they are in a movie theater watching a real theater presentation. The great sound factors in with a couple big subs shaking them. I have yet to find anyone that says my god that 1080p was just to much with those huge pixels to watch. I leave some carefully placed task (beer drinking pizza eating) lights on and have guys over for sports and they all love it and they all have 4k TVs at home. I never buy beer or pizza anymore they chip in and bring it saying I have the place to watch it.

Part of it is liking whatever you get because within 6 months there will be something newer and better and more expensive waiting entice you. It is the way the game works.
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