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post #1 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I have started this thread as a place where tweaks can be posted for this projector. The thread has gotten very long fast so I will try to include several of the tweaks on this first page. I want to thank MikeSRC, CKL and others for doing the tests with and without filters and posting their results. For those who want to try the settings I suggest that you try Mike's & CKL's settings first. They both have calibration equipment. For those who want much more information I would suggest reading through the thread.

The tweaks and settings below should only be used as a reference. There are many factors that determine the proper settings, including the lamp, the screen, the video source, and the DVD player that is being used. As CKL has pointed out, "The same settings will incur different color temp." To get the best possible picture calibration should be done on each individual projector..

For an excellent overview of display calibration check Chris Wiggles' thread.

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=494606


If you are new to calibration and you have either the AVIA or DVE disk you might want to look at Ram Electronics quick calibration guide at the link below. Scroll down on the page to see the quick guide for each player. I would suggest that you use a calibration disk for the basic settings before trying the other tweaks.

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/V...libration.html

Full instruction guide for DVE

http://www.videoessentials.com/docs/...sumer_NTSC.pdf

If you have a DVE or AVIA disk and have lost the filters that came with the disks or have borrowed the disk. Extra filters are available from the following sources.

http://www.videoessentials.com/extra_filters.php

http://www.thx.com/mod/products/dvd/dvd.html

[b]Iggyman(Diane) has provided a Excel spreadsheet with some of the most popular settings. You can download from my site and save under name Richard.[/B]

http://www.travelexperienceclub.com/download.htm

Thanks Diane, I hope this helps with tweaking.

Eric's advice for calibration

The issue here is that your brightness and contrast settings effect how you grayscale tracks. If you set contrast and brightness properly before calibration, then the PJ is calibrated properly, you should not change them at all after calibration and should not need to.


Eric's latest settings without a filter 4/2/06

Okay guys. I had enough time to calibrate the AE900 in Cinema 1 Mode without a filter today. I am very proud of the results although I think the numbers are a bit different from my last PJ. Remember, this one is a Sept 2005 build date and showed more of a red bias than the others. My final calibration yielded a color temp of 6617 from 0-100 IRE with a Delta Error of 1.1. Thats pretty strong stuff considering that from 30-90 it is tracking very close to a perfect 6480K. The On/Off contrast measure an oustanding 2042:1. Now my meter is probably not the best for this but I used the same technics I always have to get to my number so all the variables are the same. Gamma tracked at 2.25. Okay, now for some numbers

Contrast -3
Bright +3
Color -2
Tint 0
Sharp -2
Color Temp 0

Gamma
H -1
M -1
L +1

Constrast
R 0
G -4
B +2

Bright
R -1
G 0
B -2

Now for some more interesting numbers. I used CCM to set up a nearly perfect SMPTE CIE chart. The colors are oversaturated so most are reduced. I used a 1.3 gain white screen for reference so this will work for many users. I adjusted only 5 points consisting of Red, Green, Cyan, Magenta and Yellow. You can adjust blue with overall saturation (Color in the PJs Menu).

CCM Numbers
Point 1 Red Color -15 Tint 0 Bright 0
Point 2 Green Color -18 Tint 0 Bright 0
Point 3 Cyan Color -20 Tint 0 Bright 0
Point 4 Magenta Color -16 Tint -2 Bright 0
Point 5 Yellow Color -18 Tint -4 Bright 0

Try these out and see what you think.

EDIT>>>
I changed my Gamma Low setting to +1. The gamma on the AE900 measures better and more uniformly at +5 but the image becomes more washed out. This brings up another point. I think Panny has the Gamma controls reversed on this PJ. It seems as if my other 900 had Gamma values in the -3 to -5 range instead of the + range.


Mike´s settings with 81C 2-21-06



Okay, finally got some time to try the 81C filter. I think it may be the best compromise. Blacks may not look quite as depp as with the 81EF, but the CR is actually inproved and gamma looks slightly more stable as well. Here are some settings for the 81C filter, Normal mode, Low lamp. Try them and put up a grey ramp. If it looks too red on your AE900, dial back the Red Contrast a few notches. Note that these settings are close to the 81EF, but Blue and Green Contrast have to be dialed back a little more.

Gamma
High: 3
Med: 4
Low: 6

Contrast
R: 0
G: -12
B: -7

Bright
R: -3
G: 0
B: -3

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Settings from Eric Awtry (AwtryAV89) with 81EF filter 1/29/2006

81EF Settings

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay guys, here are the settings I came up with using the 81EF. I had to end up using Normal Mode and -2 Color Temp. Dynamic color balnce can be gotten close but the Gamma is just not controllable. I am finding the Gamma settings more critical to my eye. These settings I am posting are without the use of my Lumagen scaler. I am keeping that out of the loop because I know most do not have one. I was able to achieve fairly flat grayscale and nearly perfect gamma traking. Try these and see what you think.

81EF Filter
Normal Mode
Color Temp -2
Contrast +12
Brightness -2

Gamma
High 0
Mid -6
Low -4

Contrast
R +2
G -4
B +12

Bright
R -4
G 0
B -2

On/Off contrast came in a little lower than with the C filter. The low end came in a bit darker than the C filter but the high end was a bit dimmer. I personally think the C Filter is a better match. So, for the lowest and darkest blacks, the EF may be better. I certainly know the EF would be the best if I could get Dynamic tamed a bit better.

BTW, I may be selling this PJ soon. Anyone interested?
Attached Images PreCalColorNormalEF.jpg (86.3 KB, 4 views)
PreCalGammaNormalEF.jpg (92.4 KB, 3 views)


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New Settings from Eric Awtry (AwtryAV89) 1/28/06 No filter

Here are the settings for Cinema 1 without a filter. These are using a Da-Lite HCCV screen offset in the Progressive Labs software so they may not work for everyone.

Cinema1 Mode
Color Temp 0
Contrast +6
Brightness -6

Gamma
High +1
Mid -3
Low -5

Contrast
R 0
G 0
B +4

Bright
R -2
G 0
B +1

I also might mention, I did not use the Lumagen scaler to add additional tweaks. This was close enough with the projector I did not feel I needed it.


These are low lamp settings and resulted in a Lumen output of 343. On/Off Contrast was only 1583:1.

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Eric's Settings with 81C filter and Lumagen scaler to add additional tweaks. 1/28/06

Okay, here are my settings but please understand they are not perfect without the Lumagen. Also I use a screen offset function for my Da-Lite HCCV which calculates that into the equation.

81C Filter
Normal Mode
Color Temp -4
Contrast +20
Brightness 0

Gamma
High +1
Mid 0
Low -3

Contrast
R -8
G -10
B +4

Bright
R -9
G -4
B -7

With my set up, this give me fairly close to 6500K in the 40,50,60,70 IRE range. Above that at 80,90 and 100 you should have too much green and way too little red. Moving green lower though will throw you off a bunch in the mid IREs as well as adding red will kill your mid IREs. The low end will be fairly close with a large red spike at 30 and too much blue at 20 and 10. Green should be pretty close but any movement of red or blue either way throws thing much further out of balance.

You can try it and see what you think. I will be interested in any comments.

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Eric's Original Settings without a filter 1/15/06

Original settings from Eric Awtry with no filter. I will wait untill you post your latest settings before I place them on page one of the thread.

Normal Color Temp -4
Gamma
H0
M0
L+1

Contrast
R-4
G-4
B3

Bright
R0
G-2
B-1
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Mike's latest settings with cc40R Filter 1/17/06

Well, I've finally had the chance to work with the CC40R filter. The best setting to use with it is Dynamic. Normal doesn't work anywhere near as well and is best with the 81EF. I've need to spend more time with it to decide which I like better (CC40R or 81EF), but I've got to say it looks pretty nice. For those who are interested, here are some settings for use with the CC40R filter, Low lamp and Dynamic:

Gamma

High= -2
Med= 1
Low= 4

Contrast

R= -1
G= 5
B= -3

Bright

R= -2
G=1
B= -2

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Mike's settings with no Filter 12/27/05

For those with no filter, here are some calibrated settings for the Normal mode to try:

Low Lamp, Color Temp = -4

Gamma -
High= 0
Mid= 1
Low= 3

Contrast -
Red= 0
Green= -8
Blue= -8

Bright -
Red= 0
Green= 2
Blue= -1

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Mike's latest settings from normal mode with the 81EF filter 12/19/2005

Well, just so you all have something to play with until I get my CC40R filter , here are some new settings for Normal with the 81EF filter that I like a little better than the original ones. It's a little brighter for those who want a brighter picture, but blacks aren't quite as deep. Gamma is better controlled, as is color temp and RGB %s. As always, set global brightness and contrast first, then check it again after you change the settings.

Gamma
High: 3
Med: 2
Low: 5

Contrast
R: -1
G: -7
B: -2

Bright
R: -1
G: 1
B: -3

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MIke SRC latest settings using 81EF filter & Dynamic mode 12/12/2005


I did get higher On/Off CR with the 81EF filter and the High lamp setting than with the Low lamp. I posted it here.

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6554127

I have some results using the 81EF filter with the Dynamic setting, low lamp, color temp 0. Got better color balance this time around, with the exception of a greater dropoff in red at 90 and 100 IRE than without a filter. You can see that dropoff in CKL's graphs as well. Also, gamma was much better controlled than with my settings for Normal. I might still play around with those some more though. The lumen output is the same as with the Normal setting. If you're looking for greater brightness, I'm afraid you'll have to stick with the A+B or C filters. BTW, using the A+B filters only resulted in a 15% increase in output. Haven't done any CR tests yet. Here are the settings I ended up at:

Gamma
High: 2
Med: -1
Low: 5

Contrast
R: -10
G: -15
B: -11

Bright
R: -6
G: -8
B: -13

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MikeSRC's settings for the 81Ef filter Normal mode
Here are some settings with the 81EF filter and AE900 in Normal mode, color temp at 0 and low lamp. Readings taken from the projector, so they should work with most screens that do not alter the color balance:

Gamma
High: 0
Med: 0
Low: 5

Contrast
R: -4
G: -9
B: -6

Bright
R: 1
G: 2
B: -2

I also tried Dynamic, starting with CKL's settings and had to adjust the Cont and Bright RGBs a few notches. The problem is that I couldn't bring gamma under acceptible control and the output wasn't much different from Normal. With Normal, gamma tracking was still not as controlled as I'd like, but acceptible. Overall, I think CKL's 81C filter provides the best compromise of warming effect and not too much reduction of lumen output. While the 81EF's light output is enough for use with a positive gain screen or in completely controlled light conditions, it's reduced from the Cinema 1 setting, which is too dark for some

MikeSRC's settings without filters

I've fine tuned my settings for Cinema 1, which is the closest to having accurate greyscale right out of the box. This was using OpticOne software and probe, along with Avia Pro. These may differ slightly from projector to projector, but they should give you something to try.

Calibrated settings for the HDMI input, Cinema 1:

Gamma -
High= 0
Mid= -1
Low= 2

Contrast -
Red= 1
Green= -5
Blue= 1

Bright -
Red= 0
Green= 0
Blue= -1

In addition, I've been using the CCM function to fine tune red and green, which are oversaturated right out of the box. I'm still working on those, but once I get them done I'll post them. You'll need to use the color fields from a disk like Avia to set the target color. Again, this may vary from one unit to another, so it's just something to try.

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CKL's Review of the AE900 with and without filters


http://www.avbuzz.com/audio-video/20...-ckl/index.htm

AE900 Tweak Thread [/color]
Jasons's tweak link (You must write him for the settings

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=607546

Brad Bissell's Settings for the AE700 with the 81EF filter.

I posted these settings as a possible starting tweak point for the AE900[/CENTER

I wonder how Brad Bissell's settings for the AE700 would work on the 900. He used the 81ef filter.

Many people have been waiting for my calibration, using Smart III, with the B&W KR6 81EF filter. Well, here it is. The following settings work with my AE700, but yours might be different, so use these only as a starting point.

Mode: Video
Lamp: High

Gamma High: 0
Gamma Mid: 0
Gamma Low: 0
Contrast R: 0
Contrast G: +5
Contrast B: +4
Bright R: -2
Bright G: -2
Bright B: -1

This produces an exact color temperature of 6500K across all IRE levels from 20-100. Below 20 it gets a bit cooler but that is as good as it gets with the calibration. You can reduce this by eye and lower the Blue Bright setting by one or two steps to remove the slight blue black.

After all of this I bet you are wondering what the contrast level is... Well, it is an amazing 2273:1

So it seems that the B&W KR6 81EF is the filter Cine4home.de used to calibrate the AE700.

I hope everyone finds this useful, and I strongly suggest the purchase of Smart III. Steve deserves a lot of credit for his calibration software and I don't want to take away sales with this info."

CKl's settings without filters.

(Cinema 1, HDMI, Low Lamp)
Gamma -
High= 0
Mid= -1
Low= +2

Contrast -
Red= +1
Green= -5
Blue= +1

Bright -
Red= 0
Green= 0
Blue= -1

CKL's settings (Cinema 1, High Lamp)

Gamma -
High = 0
Mid = 0
Low = 0

Contrast -
Red = -9
Green = -5
Blue = -3

Red = +2
Green = -5
Blue = -4

[CKL's Settings using Dynamic and a 81A & 81B 77mm filter
CKL's settings (Dynamic + filters, High Lamp)
Gamma -
High = +2
Mid = -1
Low = +3

Contrast -
Red = -2
Green = -11
Blue = -5

Red = -3
Green = -1
Blue = -8



DenisT's results using no filter and the Smart III
About 40 hours on lamp
Warm up about 1 hour prior to testing
Panasonic AE 900
Lamp Low
Picture Normal
Contrast 4
Brightness 1
Colour -7
Tint 1
Sharpness -4
Colour Temp -3
Dynamc Iris on
Noise Reduction on
Gamma High 0
Gamma Mid -3
Gamma Low 0
Contrast Red 3
Contrast Green 1
Contrast Blue -1
Bightness Red 0
Brightness Green 0
Brightness Blue 0

Panasonic S77 DVD
Picture Mode User
Contrast 0
Brightness 0
Sharpness -7
Color 0
Gamma 0
Depth Enhancer 0
MPEG DNR 0
3DNR 0
Video Output 720p
Transfer Mode Auto 2
HDMI Colour Space YCbCr 444

Smart III Results
Red Contrast Ratio 1387
Green Contrast Ratio 1629
Blue Contrast Ratio 976
Combined Contrast Ratio 1427
Calculated Gamma 2.16 Range 1.9 to 2.3
Target Gamma 2.2
Color Temperature About 6500 (range 6250 - 6750 at IRE 10 to 100)
Lumens 579
Lux IRE 100 173
Lux IRE 0 0.07
Contrast IRE 100/IRE 0 2471 [/left]


CostasEAR settings with the B+W 81EF

Just upgraded from 700 to 900 and i keep on using the same good old filter, 81EF. (B&W KR6 77mm).
The 900 panny is sure a step forwards, in all aspects, but really i was not shocked by the difference...

Well, i keep on reading from you that this filter is too dark.
But this should be your target! This projector is not the best in blacks, and if you really want to have deep black levels you have to cut the light over there!
And after all there is enough light even for big screens!

The black level is what really matters in cinema!

My other equipment is:

DVD player: OPPO (HDMI to HDMI cable with HDMI-DVI adapter).
Screen Da-lite 92' hi-contrast matt white.

my settings:

oppo (all other defaults):
-brightness -2 (helps hiding the macrovision effect and less calibrating from the panny)
-CSS off
-noise reduction off


panny (all other defaults):
picture dynamic, lamp low
contrast +2
colour temp -1 (some might like better -2)
NR off
GH +1
GM 0
GL +6 (some might like better +7)
CR 0
CG -6
CB 0
BR -3
BG 0
BB -4

With these settings i have the best contrast and the more light from all other fine settings i read in here.
Try them and let me know your opinion.



I suppose we can have better than 4500:1 contrast ratio (i even wish better than 5500:1), but i am still looking for the settings...
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I will try to update this post when new settings become available.
Hope this helps make a great projector even better. Rwestley
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post #2 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 11:17 AM
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Not much tweaking yet, but I ordered a filter from www.bhphotovideo.com that can be found by searching for 65073766 there. This is what many people were using on the AE700. The multi-coated one wasn't in stock and I've heard that 2filter.com has basically this same filter, but I'm not sure if it is the multi-coated one or not. I should have this filter by the middle of next week.

--Darin

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post #3 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I had the lower priced filter and it was fine when I had my 700. I used Brad Bissell's settings which he got using Smart III. I made a few changes and the picture was very good. He was able to get very close to 6500K with his settings. This filter should be work fine. The link for the lower priced filter is below.
I don't feel you need the more expensive one with special scratch proof glass since there will be no rough handeling of the filter on the projector.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont....x=7&image.y=4
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post #4 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 12:54 PM
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Darin,
Are you choosing the filter that you feel would be most appropriate for the Normal mode?
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post #5 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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This was the filter that was used on the normal mode on the 700.
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post #6 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 01:34 PM
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Opening the 900's case.

You HAVE to remove the lens shift knob to open the case. This was done on the 700 by first removing the rubber insert and then turning the inside screw CLOCKWISE to remove the knob. (don't "counter" clock turn or the screw will break off)

Panosonic has changed the rubber insert to plastic on the len's shift knob. Anyone figure out how to get this plastic "cap" piece off without dinging it up ?
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post #7 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

I had the lower priced filter and it was fine when I had my 700. I used Brad Bissell's settings which he got using Smart III. I made a few changes and the picture was very good. He was able to get very close to 6500K with his settings. This filter should be work fine. The link for the lower priced filter is below.
I don't feel you need the more expensive one with special scratch proof glass since there will be no rough handeling of the filter on the projector.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont....x=7&image.y=4

It appears the filter you linked to is the same one Darin has listed...did you mean to link to a different filter? Or am I mistaken?

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post #8 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 01:49 PM
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Filter,
I'm going to try an "FL-Day" filter (or piece of one).
There just may be enough room to mount it inside between the "paddle" iris and the DMD block.
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post #9 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 02:18 PM
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Based on the RGB %s I've recorded on the AE900 (see the list on the main thread), it looks to me like the 81EF or FL-D filters would be best used with the "Video" or "Dynamic" modes, where you're getting a higher blue level. With "Normal", Blue and Green levels are equal, so a CC30R filter looks just about right. I have an FL-D and CC20R filter I'm going to try later today.

Enjoy!

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post #10 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 04:20 PM
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To get max contrast out of the 700 while using a filter high lamp mode had to be used. Will it be the same with the 900 or can we expect to see filter benefits while still viewing in low lamp?

Moe
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post #11 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post

Darin,
Are you choosing the filter that you feel would be most appropriate for the Normal mode?

I've never seen any actual percentages for how far that filter drops blue and green, so I'm just going by what people used before and hoping it will get things close. Then I'll try to see what works best from there, but I'm thinking of maybe trying Video mode first and seeing how things measure out.

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post #12 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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B+H has two filters there is the more expensive mult resistant filter which is out of stock and the cheaper one which is available. They are both multi coated but the more expensive one has scratch proof glass and has more coatings. I don't think it is necessary to use the more expensive one on a projector. I think Daren was refering to the more expensive one which is out of stock. The difference in price is about $25.
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post #13 of 1450 Old 10-08-2005, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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If some has good results with the filter could you post your settings. Last year Brad Bissell
posted his settings and they were a great starting point with the 700.
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post #14 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 10:50 AM
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I wish someone could tell me how to tweak this VB/FPN out of my AE900...

I've done the flicker tweak and saw no noticeable improvement
LL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ike View Post

I wish someone could tell me how to tweak this VB/FPN out of my AE900...

I've done the flicker tweak and saw no noticeable improvement

I wonder if the "Dot Clock" or "Clock Phase" adjustments in the Position Menu will help? I'm glad I don't notice these issues on my 900. I don't really even see it on the jpeg you posted.

Joe M.
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post #16 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 11:03 AM
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How are people adjusting the picture to start? I started with the "Natural" setting and used Digital Essentials to adjust brightness, color, etc. Like I said elsewhere, I feel the picture is pretty spectacular right out of the box. I use component and started with "normal" setting to 96" diagonal DaLite Cinema Contour screen.

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post #17 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jermmd View Post

I wonder if the "Dot Clock" or "Clock Phase" adjustments in the Position Menu will help? I'm glad I don't notice these issues on my 900. I don't really even see it on the jpeg you posted.

To me, it's plain as day in my "Lost" screen capture. Maybe that's why some people say there's no VB/FPN. Maybe they are just unable to see it.

I have no idea what the "Dot clock" or "Clock Phase" adjustments would do for VB/FPN. The only tweak I've read about for VB/FPN is the flicker tweak.

If Panasonic designed this projector to be able to tweak out VB/FPN, I wish they would tell me how !!!
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post #18 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jermmd View Post

I wonder if the "Dot Clock" or "Clock Phase" adjustments in the Position Menu will help?

They're not available on HDMI and Dot Clock is only available on the PC input, so I don't think they'll be much help.

Enjoy!

Mike
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post #19 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jermmd View Post

How are people adjusting the picture to start? I started with the "Natural" setting and used Digital Essentials to adjust brightness, color, etc. Like I said elsewhere, I feel the picture is pretty spectacular right out of the box. I use component and started with "normal" setting to 96" diagonal DaLite Cinema Contour screen.

I posted the color temp and RGB%s for each setting on the main AE900 thread here. Cinema 1 is the most accurate right out of the box, but it may not be bright enough for some setups.

Enjoy!

Mike
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post #20 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Did you wait until the projector was on for about an hour before you did the flicker tweak?

I would contact Panasonic if the tweak does not work letting them know about the VB problem. It could be misalignment of the lcd panels.
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post #21 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

Did you wait until the projector was on for about an hour before you did the flicker tweak?

I would contact Panasonic if the tweak does not work letting them know about the VB problem. It could be misalignment of the lcd panels.

Yep, did that. BUT - someone in the "OFFICIAL" thread got me thinking about my screen and I posted the following there as well...


Quote:


Wow - guys, you got me thinking about my screen. So I did the following tests:

1. I paused my "Lost" scene where VB/FPN was most noticeable. Then I moved the adjustable lens joystick around. The vertical streaks did NOT MOVE !! They stayed in the same position.

2. I re-centered the picture and then moved to a steep off-axis sitting position. NO VP/FPN whatsoever in the picture.

3. I changed the projector from Ceiling to Desk mount, flipping the picture. The streaks stayed near the top of the picture.

UNBELIEVABLE. I'm now 99% convinced that my screen is the culprit. But how ?? It's a tensioned screen with no visible waves. Could my screen have some kind of defects vertically ? Could the tension be just uneven enough to cause a problem ?

If it truely is my screen, sorry for causing you all to get nervous regarding the AE900.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSRC View Post

They're not available on HDMI and Dot Clock is only available on the PC input, so I don't think they'll be much help.

In the manual under clock phase for component it says to set dot clock first. This has something to do with distortions in or from vertical lines so I though it might be helpful. I obviously have no idea what these adjustments do but since they mention problems with vertical lines I thought they might be helpful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ike View Post

To me, it's plain as day in my "Lost" screen capture. Maybe that's why some people say there's no VB/FPN. Maybe they are just unable to see it.

I think you're right ike. In my case, ignorance is bliss.

Joe M.
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post #23 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jermmd View Post

In the manual under clock phase for component it says to set dot clock first. This has something to do with distortions in or from vertical lines so I though it might be helpful. I obviously have no idea what these adjustments do but since they mention problems with vertical lines I thought they might be helpful.

Makes sure that the clock that steps the individual RGB panels arrive at the panel in phase such that the analogue voltages that drive the individual LCD panel's pixel columns are in lock step, I believe. Basically it insures that all panels are addressed simultaneously.

I've played with the dot clock on my 700 - it is of no value for VB as far as I can tell. When I used the VGA input, AUTO adjust was optimum. VB is an illumination, not timing problem. DOT CLOCK errors *can* make your desktop fuzzy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyR View Post

There just may be enough room to mount it inside between the "paddle" iris and the DMD block.

Any optical (it look better now) reason for doing this Mr. R? or have you been retired too long?

ted
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post #24 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 05:09 PM
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I posted this in the other Panny thread but it really belongs here.
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Originally Posted by Jermmd View Post

My unofficial and quick settings are as follows:
In the Natural mode-Brightness -5, Contrast -2, Color -5, low lamp setting, noise reduction off. I read above that Cinema 1 was closest to ideal settings and I may start there and try again. I'd like to hear what other people are doing.


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post #25 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 05:11 PM
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Does the 900 have a threaded lens to allow esy screw on of these filters or dsoes it require some special mod to hold the filter in front of the lens?
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post #26 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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From what I know it uses the same filter as the 700 and has a threaded lens.
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post #27 of 1450 Old 10-10-2005, 06:51 PM
 
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yes the lens is threaded.
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post #28 of 1450 Old 10-14-2005, 02:49 PM
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Anyone like to share their settings after calibration with or without a filter?

Thanks
Ron

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post #29 of 1450 Old 10-14-2005, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Would someone with a filter try the settings that most of us started with on the 700.

Brad Bissell's settings were the ones many of us used. I wonder how they would work on
the 900.
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post #30 of 1450 Old 10-17-2005, 04:27 PM
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Any more news on the filter experiments? Mike, can you recommend a CC30R to purchase? The CC30R filters I can find at bhphotovideo are the rectangular Cokin/Lee filter types.
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