Infocus IN72-IN74-IN76 - Page 144 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4291 of 4316 Old 07-13-2018, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
one of my PD8150's has a color wheel that changes speed from when it is started to when it is warmed up or I assume that is what is happening. If I set the color wheel index cold so I have no banding in the color patterns, and then check the patterns after an hour of use I would have to readjust the timing. I assume the wheel speeds up or slows down after it warms up.
If you can access the service menu there may be an index adjustment. The index sensor on the color wheel board could also need to be cleaned.
Good luck!!
Thanks for such a quick reply! Unfortunately I don't have access to the "service menu" -I cannot find the code anywhere online. So I cannot tune the wheel speed.
One other thing I didn't mention is that the fan seems to go faster than needed: it goes at the same speed either in "eco mode" or "high power". Does that tell you something? In my book that could indicate dust -although everything looked very clean when I opened the lid...
So what I will do is clean the wheel and the sensor and see what happens. I guess the safest way is with canned air, taking care not to blow towards the lens or the light tunnel. But I also found many tutorials suggesting to gently rub the wheel with some drops of alcohol-water. Any tip on how to do this?
I will also try leaving it on for one hour, in case I have the same "warming up" problem.
And if this doesn't work, I'll just take it to some service -that if I'm able to find someone vaguely reliable in Buenos Aires!

PS. This problem really comes as a surprise. The IN76 was a top-of-the-line model in its time -it costed around 3k! In fact, I've been using a good old IN72 since 2006, with no issue whatsoever.
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post #4292 of 4316 Old 07-13-2018, 12:49 PM
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No idea what the guts of that look like, I have only been in the Planar PD81500 which I can swap a CW in about 4 minutes once the top is off.
In the planar I can remove 4 screws and the CW housing comes out and the color wheel motor and board are mounted in the housing . You need to clean the small sensor that is on the board.. there is a black line on the edge of the motor which passes the sensor every rpm. To do that on the planar you would need to remove the color wheel from the board mount and wipe the sensor with alcohol. You can see the black line on the hub of the motor.. sensor is underneath where you can not see it.

Another thing to check that could make more sense is a loose ribbon cable from the colorwheel or other board. One of my machines had a bad ribbon cable which would intermittently cause the cw to stop or not start..
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post #4293 of 4316 Old 07-13-2018, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
No idea what the guts of that look like, I have only been in the Planar PD81500 which I can swap a CW in about 4 minutes once the top is off.
In the planar I can remove 4 screws and the CW housing comes out and the color wheel motor and board are mounted in the housing . You need to clean the small sensor that is on the board.. there is a black line on the edge of the motor which passes the sensor every rpm. To do that on the planar you would need to remove the color wheel from the board mount and wipe the sensor with alcohol. You can see the black line on the hub of the motor.. sensor is underneath where you can not see it.

Another thing to check that could make more sense is a loose ribbon cable from the colorwheel or other board. One of my machines had a bad ribbon cable which would intermittently cause the cw to stop or not start..
Great info, many thanks. I'll check the cables first thing, and then move to the cleaning.
So I go with isopropyl alcohol for the sensor... and canned air for the wheel?
I guess I'll do this on Sunday or Monday. I'll upload photos of the surgery afterwards.
Thanks again!
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post #4294 of 4316 Old 07-13-2018, 01:11 PM
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if the wheel is out of the machine you can blow it off, but I would say away from the canned air inside the machine as you can get dust on the back of the DMD prism real ease. The wheel if removed is cleaned as you would a glass lens. it is just colored glass and no amount of dirt will cause your symptoms. Yes wipe off the sensor with alcohol.

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post #4295 of 4316 Old 07-13-2018, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for the head-up. So I only blow air on the wheel IF i can totally remove it from the pj, then? And otherwise I just wipe it with a dry microfiber cloth? Is that correct?
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post #4296 of 4316 Old 07-13-2018, 02:24 PM
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Thanks for the head-up. So I only blow air on the wheel IF i can totally remove it from the pj, then? And otherwise I just wipe it with a dry microfiber cloth? Is that correct?
It it is dirty.. I normally use alcohol with the cloth to clean the glass.

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post #4297 of 4316 Old 07-13-2018, 03:03 PM
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It it is dirty.. I normally use alcohol with the cloth to clean the glass.
Great. I'll let you know the outcome in a few days.
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post #4298 of 4316 Old 07-14-2018, 11:19 AM
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Just one more question before doing it: should I take out the sensor in order to clean it? Is there any risk of "disaligning" it if I do that?
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post #4299 of 4316 Old 07-14-2018, 11:06 PM
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just wet a rag with alcohol and wipe it
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post #4300 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 01:56 PM
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I finally got to open it and take a look -it wasn't a 4 minutes task, at all. The inside was quite clean: no dirt on the fans or the wheel, so I didn't touch it. The sensor cable's terminal is unreachable without further unscrewing, but it looks tightly plugged. So I just wiped (what I think was) the sensor with a drop of isopropyl alcohol -see the third photo. Does that look like the sensor to you?
I put it back together and, alas, the posterization is still there... I left it on for about an hour, and no change.
Should I re-open it and try wiping the wheel as well? (my bet is no: it looks shinny to me).
Is there any easy further test I could run, either on the DMD chip or the wheel? Or should I just take it to some service here and cross my fingers?
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post #4301 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 02:01 PM
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Ps. Here goes a photo of the problem
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post #4302 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 02:45 PM
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That looks like the sensor, not need to clean the CW glass..
Did you try different inputs just to verify the issue is light engine related? Try all HDMI inputs and at least one analog ..

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post #4303 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 02:53 PM
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I did try different inputs, including the composite. Same problem in all of them.
If it does look like a sensor problem to you, I might try to clean it once again with a cotton swab -I just wiped the little thing with a wet clot, but maybe I didn't do it firmly enough. If that doesn't work, I could try to spot a new sensor online...
(Believe me: sending a projector to a technician in Argentina should always be your LAST option).
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post #4304 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 02:53 PM
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I goggled in76 service manual https://elektrotanya.com/infocus_in7.../download.html
Page 53 gives you the key strokes to enter service menu.. probably instructions for setting the CW timing as well but I did not spend the time looking.
Good luck!
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post #4305 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 03:04 PM
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Wow, terrific! Thanks a lot!
One other thing I could try before going into the service menu is updating the firmware. But I don't think that will fix anything: the other projector has the exact same firmware version, and pefect image...
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post #4306 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 05:09 PM
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Wow, terrific! Thanks a lot!
One other thing I could try before going into the service menu is updating the firmware. But I don't think that will fix anything: the other projector has the exact same firmware version, and pefect image...
I would update regardless. I had an issue when I went without updating and there was a bug with the HDMI input setting on earlier firmwares where the projector would refuse to turn on, and cause a big headache. Not your problem now but would be a good thing to do for unforseen complications.

Actually still using my in76, 13 yrs Later. Two bulbs. Should buy a third as it's getting pretty dim on the original bulb. Never had the banding issue though.. looks like what you would see if a computer screen was using 8/16 bit(?) color or something. Not sure if there is a setting for that in the service menu. Just an idea.
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post #4307 of 4316 Old 07-15-2018, 05:51 PM
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I would update regardless.
Oh yes, I will update -for which I need to buy the M1 cable, not a minor problem if you are in this corner of the world. Actually I need to do that to fix the problems with 1080p / 24fps signals -only solved in the very last firmware version. But I don't think that could fix the posterization; as I said, my other unit has the same firmware with no issues, and this one worked fine during the first hours.
Funny thing is my old IN72, which I have since 2006, and which has been exposed to heavy dust -even drops of paint!- keeps on working flawlessly with its first bulb!
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post #4308 of 4316 Old 07-30-2018, 09:50 AM
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I've done some further tests. Re-cleaned the sensor: no luck. Inspected the cables: everything looks well plugged. Went into the service menu and calibrated the color index. That changed the hue of the image (from blue on one end to green on the other), but didn't do much in terms of posterization.
I bought the M1 cable to update the firmware. It's on its way. I will try that, and see if that does fixes something or unblocks some other service option, but I'm not holding my breath. After that, I guess my only hope will be the leap of faith of a local service...

PS. I do have an IN-72 that works fine and comes with the exact same little sensor board. Unplugging it requires taking apart the whole projector. If there were high chances that the problem lies there -and not, say, in the DMD chip- I would try changing the IN-76 sensor. But how could I be sure...?
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post #4309 of 4316 Old 01-12-2020, 02:59 PM
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Hello friends, I have an Infocus in72 since launch in 2006 so I guess its an antique now! It's been in the loft for some years, brought out now and then for special occasions to watch a movie on the big screen.

Tonight I took it down from the loft and tried it with an N64 over composite. The lamp warmed up and the screen showed the familiar red infocus logo with no issues. The console switched on and it auto detected composite displaying the game loading screens perfectly.

A few minutes into the game, the screen went blank, although still displaying enough light to show the screen area.

Power light was solid green.

I pressed it and it went into the cooldown process for exactly one minute as usual and switched off the fans.

After a few minutes I tried again with a different input (hdmi) and the screen is the same. Blank, but light enough to show the screen area.

I know this is an old machine, but would love to find a way to get it working again. Any help appreciated.

No red lights, fans cutting out, smells or smoke ;D
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post #4310 of 4316 Old 01-12-2020, 03:27 PM
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The only thing I can think of is that some how the button was pushed or the code was sent to blank the screen.

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post #4311 of 4316 Old 01-12-2020, 06:33 PM
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See if the menu screens show up. I'm using my IN72 still. I believe that my component input quit working, but it could be the source equipment. I use hdmi without issue.
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post #4312 of 4316 Old 01-13-2020, 03:19 AM
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See if the menu screens show up. I'm using my IN72 still. I believe that my component input quit working, but it could be the source equipment. I use hdmi without issue.
I will dig out the remote and try that.
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post #4313 of 4316 Old 01-13-2020, 03:20 AM
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The only thing I can think of is that some how the button was pushed or the code was sent to blank the screen.
I am not sure I understand? The buttons on the deck do nothing as far as I can see, the screen remains lit up but not displaying anything. The only button that gets a noticeable reaction is power, which puts it into cool down for 1 minute then off.
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post #4314 of 4316 Old 01-13-2020, 06:25 AM
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What exactly do you see, a full white screen or a dark screen but still enough light to tell there is light coming from the projector?
My assumption from your fist post was the later, and my suggestion was that is an option to blank the screen making the screen go dark without shutting off the projector or changing the input. (blanking out the screen)

If the screen is still lit up normally I would start by trying all the other inputs with a known good input device like a DVD player that has multiple types of video output\
Good luck, my IN72 was my first projector but I only had it a short time so don't remember too much about it.

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post #4315 of 4316 Old 01-13-2020, 09:41 AM
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What exactly do you see, a full white screen or a dark screen but still enough light to tell there is light coming from the projector?
My assumption from your fist post was the later, and my suggestion was that is an option to blank the screen making the screen go dark without shutting off the projector or changing the input. (blanking out the screen)

If the screen is still lit up normally I would start by trying all the other inputs with a known good input device like a DVD player that has multiple types of video output\
Good luck, my IN72 was my first projector but I only had it a short time so don't remember too much about it.
Thank you that makes sense. You are right the screen is dark with just enough light to show its projecting something.

I cannot find the remote at the moment but will dig it out and try again.
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post #4316 of 4316 Old 01-13-2020, 06:11 PM
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I think the red screen comes up after about one minute of no input. So, if you switch to an unused input, wait to see if the red screen appears.

Also, make sure the resolution sent to the projector is 1080i, or something that always works.

There's a menu button on top. You don't need the remote. Also source, etc. I don't think I ever noticed them, but they are there, next to the power button. A flashlight helps!
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