Official DataSat RS20i thread. (Setup Tips, Questions,General Info, etc) - Page 195 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5821 of 5958 Old 08-16-2018, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Neilsy View Post

How many bands of parametric per channel does it offer?
9 on the input side (pre Dirac room correction)
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post #5822 of 5958 Old 08-16-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
9 on the input side (pre Dirac room correction)
Thanks. And when you say the input side, do you mean 9 global or per channel input?

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post #5823 of 5958 Old 08-16-2018, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Neilsy View Post
Thanks. And when you say the input side, do you mean 9 global or per channel input?
9 per channel. As noted, these are pre-Dirac. There are more PEQ options post Dirac but I can't recall how many (I never used them).
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post #5824 of 5958 Old 08-17-2018, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
9 per channel. As noted, these are pre-Dirac. There are more PEQ options post Dirac but I can't recall how many (I never used them).
3 per channel post Dirac I think, but from memory they only go up to 200Hz or so.
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post #5825 of 5958 Old 08-17-2018, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilsy View Post
Thanks. And when you say the input side, do you mean 9 global or per channel input?
9 per channel.

By input side Chuck means a) they affect the input. So for example if you apply some PEQ to the FL channel they will will be tied to that input channel, no matter which output channel/speaker you have that mapped to in the routing table, and b) they are applied to the test tones when Dirac measures, so the PEQ is essentially taken into account in the Dirac filters.

I always found it beneficial to apply some PEQ to all channels to deal with the worst of the FR issues, prior to running Dirac - it gives Dirac less work to do with a cleaner baseline for calibration, and produces a more finessed result.
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post #5826 of 5958 Old 08-17-2018, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neilsy View Post
Thanks. And when you say the input side, do you mean 9 global or per channel input?
9 per channel. As noted, these are pre-Dirac. There are more PEQ options post Dirac but I can't recall how many (I never used them).

Thanks guys. I'll be sure to have a chat with Datasat before I go any further later down the line

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post #5827 of 5958 Old 08-22-2018, 08:38 AM
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I have the hdmi 2 card for my rs20 - not the latest one but the previous one. Can someone tell me which inputs of the four can be used with an uhd player? I will be using sdr with wcg using a Panasonic uhd player. I know this was discussed earlier in this thread and I will search if no one can recall the answer....
I hadn't planned on getting an uhd player, at least not until the Panny 9000 or Pioneer were reviewed but there was a blowout on the Panny UB400 and my good old Oppo 83 was acting up a little so I went ahead and bought one.

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post #5828 of 5958 Old 08-22-2018, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post
I have the hdmi 2 card for my rs20 - not the latest one but the previous one. Can someone tell me which inputs of the four can be used with an uhd player? I will be using sdr with wcg using a Panasonic uhd player. I know this was discussed earlier in this thread and I will search if no one can recall the answer....
I hadn't planned on getting an uhd player, at least not until the Panny 9000 or Pioneer were reviewed but there was a blowout on the Panny UB400 and my good old Oppo 83 was acting up a little so I went ahead and bought one.
Input 4
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post #5829 of 5958 Old 08-22-2018, 09:07 AM
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thanks Chuck, that's what I thought. If I was smart I already put the Oppo on input 4, we shall see tonight, lol.

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post #5830 of 5958 Old 08-27-2018, 07:13 AM
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Did somebody heard something from Datasat about the new Dirac Live version?


Q&A here: https://www.dirac.com/dirac-blog/qa-new-dirac-live


Has anybody an idea if and when this will be available from Datasat or any contact to Datasat? You can sign-up for a beta-version but not for Datasat - https://www.dirac.com/diraclivebeta
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post #5831 of 5958 Old 08-27-2018, 08:04 AM
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I watched the Ready Player One bluray via my new Panny UB400 uhd player with no problems on input 4. I used the upscale function in the Panny. Amazing video quality from a device that cost me 250bucks! I'm still planning on buying either the Panny 9000 or the new top Pioneer player when reviews are available. Part of that is just the hardware snob that can't accept a featherweight low feature device, lol. I'm only half kidding. BTW, the bass and effects in Ready Player One are incredible! Visceral bass that shakes you violently at times.

I estimate "reference level" is around -35 to -40 in my system. Good thing I didn't crank this up to -10 or something without first checking or there may have been speaker parts flying around the room lol.

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post #5832 of 5958 Old 08-27-2018, 09:15 AM
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I watched the Ready Player One bluray...BTW, the bass and effects in Ready Player One are incredible! Visceral bass that shakes you violently at times.
Had a small GTG @mikela "Home Theater of the Month's" place last week, where we watched the race scene from RPO. The nice Atmos mix was presented exceptionally well and the bass from his 12x15" SBA setup made the seats jump throughout.
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post #5833 of 5958 Old 08-27-2018, 11:43 AM
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... his 12x15" SBA setup made the seats jump throughout.

Wow, I am truly impressed...


Looking forward to RPO. Will be available in Europe beginning of September. Thank you for sharing your impressions.


PS: Even more impressed after reading the article - double WOW...
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post #5834 of 5958 Old 08-27-2018, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUR View Post
Had a small GTG @mikela "Home Theater of the Month's" place last week, where we watched the race scene from RPO. The nice Atmos mix was presented exceptionally well and the bass from his 12x15" SBA setup made the seats jump throughout.
Awesome setup...mmmmmmmm woooooofers.
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post #5835 of 5958 Old 08-30-2018, 07:37 AM
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I thought I would check on the forum to see if anyone with a datasat dirac calibration kit would be willing to sell. PM me if interested! Thank you!


Update: purchased a kit
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post #5836 of 5958 Old 09-03-2018, 05:12 AM
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Anyone hear any CEDIA rumors of Datasat announcing an LS10/RS20i upgrade or replacement to be able to handle more channels? Just curious. Companies, relationships, and individuals either improve or get worse. The static state is simply never good. I sure do hope for their sake and that of their many clients, that either they or ATI provide an upgrade path.
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post #5837 of 5958 Old 09-03-2018, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
Anyone hear any CEDIA rumors of Datasat announcing an LS10/RS20i upgrade or replacement to be able to handle more channels? Just curious. Companies, relationships, and individuals either improve or get worse. The static state is simply never good. I sure do hope for their sake and that of their many clients, that either they or ATI provide an upgrade path.

Good point audioguy and I hope so too but have no information.
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post #5838 of 5958 Old 09-06-2018, 01:24 PM
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Hi peopple,

Anybody to know about a firmware update with the new "Imax entertainment" on RS20i?

I guess this update will coming soon

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post #5839 of 5958 Old 09-07-2018, 03:57 AM
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Hi peopple,

Anybody to know about a firmware update with the new "Imax entertainment" on RS20i?

I guess this update will coming soon

Never heard of this. Can you or somebody else please explain what 'Imax entertainment' is. Thank you.


I surely know Imax theaters but what has this to do with Datasat and the RS20i? Is it a new sound format?
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post #5840 of 5958 Old 09-07-2018, 04:02 AM
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Never heard of this. Can you or somebody else please explain what 'Imax entertainment' is. Thank you.

I surely know Imax theaters but what has this to do with Datasat and the RS20i? Is it a new sound format?
https://www.imaxenhanced.com/

A good idea and understanding lies at the base of every successful project.
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post #5841 of 5958 Old 09-07-2018, 04:35 AM
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Thank you Maikel. I haven't heard of this but now, I know.


Very interesting. It seems they are trying to re-establish the old duopoly of Dolby and DTS. And it seems to be the answer of DTS - together with Imax - to Dolby Vision. Very, very interesting and I missed this completely.


I was also asking myself, why are all the sound logos gone, shown in the end credits of movies, replaced by only one logo: Dolby Atmos. I mean, the Datasat and the SDDS and other logos are gone. It seems there is a war going on out there. Wow...


But I really like this and I will fully support this. More choices is always good for the customer. Does anybody know if this Imax enhanced sound has something to do with Auro 3D?



Thank you guys and I learned something.
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post #5842 of 5958 Old 09-29-2018, 06:36 AM
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Stereo or Mono Subs?

My setup is 7.2.4. My fronts & base surrounds are all full range and I've been running my subs in stereo, which are located on either side of the the front of my theater. My thinking was that it might be good to have the left sub frequencies delivered on that side, etc. But actually thinking that BECAUSE my base speakers are full range it would be best to have the subs run in mono.

I realize to most there's is a simple conclusion. Wondering what your input is.

Thanks
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post #5843 of 5958 Old 09-29-2018, 02:57 PM
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My setup is 7.2.4. My fronts & base surrounds are all full range and I've been running my subs in stereo, which are located on either side of the the front of my theater. My thinking was that it might be good to have the left sub frequencies delivered on that side, etc. But actually thinking that BECAUSE my base speakers are full range it would be best to have the subs run in mono.

I realize to most there's is a simple conclusion. Wondering what your input is.

Thanks
In almost every case it's best to run the subs run in mono. The logic here is that the reason to have multiple subwoofers is to get a flat and even bass response across as much of the seating as possible. So, you're playing with number and placement of subwoofers in order to optimize bass response, and bass includes both the LFE channel and any low frequencies that are being bass managed out of your mains and surrounds (usually around 80Hz, although of course it's worth tinkering with the crossover point).

If you run stereo subwoofers, in which they are both getting LFE but are also getting bass managed sounds from left and right channels, respectively, then each subwoofer needs to be individually optimized for the whole room, which is running counter to the whole point of having multiple subs.

I'm not clear from your OP if you are using bass management; if not, I encourage you to do so. Even if your speakers are full range they are not as good as reproducing low frequencies as your subs, and they're also probably not placed correctly for optimal bass response.
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post #5844 of 5958 Old 09-29-2018, 03:55 PM
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Thanks for responding.

Yes, my RS20i was calibrated by Datasat (one of the Mikes) and makes use of bass Managment, Dirac etc. was calibrated with subs as mono.

After the Penn State/Ohio game tonight (!) I will change to mono and recalibrate sound levels.

Thx again.
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post #5845 of 5958 Old 10-01-2018, 08:44 AM
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If you have access to Room EQ Wizard, and a bunch of time lol, you can compare. I did exactly that...I started off with a pair of JL F113 subs and spent time comparing mono to stereo using the measurements at all 7 seats in my ht. I did the same thing when I added the second pair of JL F113s. It's no secret that the bass is more even at more seating positions with the 4 subs compared to 1 or 2 subs. I use the mono setting and calibrated the 4 subs as one. Some people advocate reversing the phase of the rear pair of subs but I didn't find it necessary to do that in order to get a good response. While my 4 subs aren't quite equidistant from the main listening position they are close to it.

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post #5846 of 5958 Old 10-03-2018, 06:57 AM
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Thanks for the insight, Bogg.

After setting to mono and recalibrating both subs I realized I had the level on both subs lower than 75db as all other channels. The biggest reason for this is the fact I get a “rattle” from my left sub at certain playback levels and or frequencies. I had forgotten about this.

I have all B&W; 800D L/R, HTM2D Ctr, CT8.4 side surrounds & rears, SCMS x4 ceiling, DB1 subs x2, front left & right

The issue I have is the cone moving so much it kind of screach or rattle. Hard to explain the sound. At first it would seem as though it is moving against the floor but that is not the case. It is on feet going through a cork floor to cement pad as is the right sub. I have extensively explored reasons for this and have found no other cause other than the movement of the cone.

Very irritating to say the least.

The subs are about 10 years old and I know there are better performance options for subs and have to believe the technology has improved today.

While I really don’t to spend the money right now I do want to consider replacements options. Ideally I’d like to get the best performing subs that I can, tight bass, more power than I need for headroom.....

My room was acoustically designed and is a dedicated room measuring 27’ deep x 21’ wide, 10’ ceiling. While not perfect, the acoustics of the room are excellent.

The Datasat RS20 was calibrated using dirac and bass management. I don’t imagine I would need on board eq or room correction as many seem to include today.

Any suggestions or comments as to what others are using would really be appreciated.

I realize this isn’t necessarily the right forum for this but would value feedback from those of you also using the Datasat.
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post #5847 of 5958 Old 10-04-2018, 08:57 AM
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Jazzrock, that is an awesome size room (with great gear and aesthetics too!) so you have lots of options. I have a smaller Rives room than yours and have 4 JL F113s. I toyed with the idea of getting some Deep Sea Sound Marianas just because I LOVE the look of the massive 24 inch woofers in them!!!! Take a look and see if they suit you. There are the usual commercially available brands and also great offerings from Mark Seaton and others. I agree that you should find a sub without any processing since the RS20 will do the heavy lifting. Keep us posted!

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post #5848 of 5958 Old 10-05-2018, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzrock View Post
Thanks for the insight, Bogg.

After setting to mono and recalibrating both subs I realized I had the level on both subs lower than 75db as all other channels. The biggest reason for this is the fact I get a “rattle” from my left sub at certain playback levels and or frequencies. I had forgotten about this.

I have all B&W; 800D L/R, HTM2D Ctr, CT8.4 side surrounds & rears, SCMS x4 ceiling, DB1 subs x2, front left & right

The issue I have is the cone moving so much it kind of screach or rattle. Hard to explain the sound. At first it would seem as though it is moving against the floor but that is not the case. It is on feet going through a cork floor to cement pad as is the right sub. I have extensively explored reasons for this and have found no other cause other than the movement of the cone.

Very irritating to say the least.

The subs are about 10 years old and I know there are better performance options for subs and have to believe the technology has improved today.

While I really don’t to spend the money right now I do want to consider replacements options. Ideally I’d like to get the best performing subs that I can, tight bass, more power than I need for headroom.....

My room was acoustically designed and is a dedicated room measuring 27’ deep x 21’ wide, 10’ ceiling. While not perfect, the acoustics of the room are excellent.

The Datasat RS20 was calibrated using dirac and bass management. I don’t imagine I would need on board eq or room correction as many seem to include today.

Any suggestions or comments as to what others are using would really be appreciated.

I realize this isn’t necessarily the right forum for this but would value feedback from those of you also using the Datasat.
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Jazzrock, that is an awesome size room (with great gear and aesthetics too!) so you have lots of options. I have a smaller Rives room than yours and have 4 JL F113s. I toyed with the idea of getting some Deep Sea Sound Marianas just because I LOVE the look of the massive 24 inch woofers in them!!!! Take a look and see if they suit you. There are the usual commercially available brands and also great offerings from Mark Seaton and others. I agree that you should find a sub without any processing since the RS20 will do the heavy lifting. Keep us posted!
You have a very nice system there and it would appear you have made a significant investment in the gear and space. The reality is that the pair of DB1 subs are grossly out of scale for a room that is 27' x 21' x 10'. The big question will be what sort of space you have available for subwoofers? More space for multiples and/or physically larger units open up the most cost effective and better performing options. The RS20i has great capabilities, and can easily handle any modern subwoofer solution. If your room is fully closed off with multiple rows, subwoofers front and rear are highly recommended. You can get good performance from the front of the room, particularly if your listening position isn't in a difficult location for the subwoofers at the front wall.

Do you have pictures/details of your room posted anywhere? Did your calibrator happen to give you any sort of report showing the before/after response correction? This might give some big hints to what might be workable.

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post #5849 of 5958 Old 10-08-2018, 08:08 AM
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You have a very nice system there and it would appear you have made a significant investment in the gear and space. The reality is that the pair of DB1 subs are grossly out of scale for a room that is 27' x 21' x 10'. The big question will be what sort of space you have available for subwoofers? More space for multiples and/or physically larger units open up the most cost effective and better performing options. The RS20i has great capabilities, and can easily handle any modern subwoofer solution. If your room is fully closed off with multiple rows, subwoofers front and rear are highly recommended. You can get good performance from the front of the room, particularly if your listening position isn't in a difficult location for the subwoofers at the front wall.



Do you have pictures/details of your room posted anywhere? Did your calibrator happen to give you any sort of report showing the before/after response correction? This might give some big hints to what might be workable.


Thanks for your reply, Mark. I’ve attached a pic of the front and back of the room.

I have also attached a schematic of the room build which may be if help.

I don’t recall a report from the calibrator but I’ll look for one.
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post #5850 of 5958 Old 10-08-2018, 09:48 AM
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Thanks for your reply, Mark. I’ve attached a pic of the front and back of the room.

I have also attached a schematic of the room build which may be if help.

I don’t recall a report from the calibrator but I’ll look for one.
That's a very sleek and clean looking space.

About how far from the hard front wall are the current subwoofers?

There are plenty of options to better fill a room of this size. You can either do mostly drop-in replacements, which will somewhat limit available space before it impacts either visually or 2 channel performance, or you could consider doing some rework of the fabric at the front of the room.

Would you consider giving up say 2 bottom shelves left & right in the rear bookcases to add subs to the rear? Alternately you could look into how easy it is to get into the bottom of the rear corner bass traps as well.

Finally, what building structure is behind each of the walls? Are some walls foundation/brick vs some standard stud construction with utility or other living space behind?

Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
"Make no little plans; they have no magic to stir men's blood..." Daniel H. Burnham
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