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post #11071 of 11780 Old 03-31-2020, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Berland View Post
More and more new Atmos-releases uses the whole ceiling-set of speakers. So no need to not go wild anymore
If you mean TF, TM and TR, I'm curious what new releases you find are using all three pairs, as opposed to just having a stereo pair of overheads mixed to top middle or effectively just copied to front and rear tops.

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post #11072 of 11780 Old 03-31-2020, 07:28 PM
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Just got my a16 in today and did a quick measure to see what the fuss is about. My mind is blown. I thought the RMC1 and the M17v2 sounded great. I'm hearing so much more and it's so distinct. I have only one issue though. I have my nx7 hooked up to hdmi 2 and it works fine. My Sony oled on hdmi 1 doesn't get a signal. I swapped displays around and only hdmi 2 works. Hdmi 1 only worked when my ub9000 played a 4k Blu-ray at 1080p. Any ideas what the issue could be? Thanks for any input.
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post #11073 of 11780 Old 03-31-2020, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbquart View Post
Just got my a16 in today and did a quick measure to see what the fuss is about. My mind is blown. I thought the RMC1 and the M17v2 sounded great. I'm hearing so much more and it's so distinct. I have only one issue though. I have my nx7 hooked up to hdmi 2 and it works fine. My Sony oled on hdmi 1 doesn't get a signal. I swapped displays around and only hdmi 2 works. Hdmi 1 only worked when my ub9000 played a 4k Blu-ray at 1080p. Any ideas what the issue could be? Thanks for any input.
Nvm I see HDMI 1 is only 1.4.
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post #11074 of 11780 Old 04-01-2020, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berland View Post
More and more new Atmos-releases uses the whole ceiling-set of speakers. So no need to not go wild anymore

Edit:
All ceiling channels available for Atmos that is; VOG or Ch are not part of those.
My question was about front heights. To my knowledge, Atmos doesn´t know front height channels either, so how can they be used by new Atmos-releases?
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post #11075 of 11780 Old 04-01-2020, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockyAVS View Post
My question was about front heights. To my knowledge, Atmos doesn´t know front height channels either, so how can they be used by new Atmos-releases?
Atmos uses 10 height channels of which a Front and Rear heights are part.
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post #11076 of 11780 Old 04-01-2020, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookii View Post
Atmos uses 10 height channels of which a Front and Rear heights are part.
Ah, true of course. My bad. Probably too early in the morning for me.
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post #11077 of 11780 Old 04-01-2020, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post
If you mean TF, TM and TR, I'm curious what new releases you find are using all three pairs, as opposed to just having a stereo pair of overheads mixed to top middle or effectively just copied to front and rear tops.
I just picked randomly Aquaman, Jumanji and Ready Player One and they all make use of all three pairs in the input stream.
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post #11078 of 11780 Old 04-01-2020, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockyAVS View Post
I just picked randomly Aquaman, Jumanji and Ready Player One and they all make use of all three pairs in the input stream.
There are movies that use all three - just responding to Berland's comment about more recent releases and curious what he was thinking of.

You're right about the last two - I haven't checked out Aquaman though. Actually watching a lot of older movies lately rather than Atmos in our "down time" due to COVID-19.

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post #11079 of 11780 Old 04-01-2020, 05:35 PM
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When I first got my Altitude 16, I finally figured out how to do this but now that I want to do it again, I can't remember how.

The measurement software I am using can not directly address more than 6 channels (vs the 8 of REW). So when I want to measure a speaker beyond 6, (lets assume for this example, I want to measure the Left Wide), I (thought) I changed the the L for the left speaker to LW and change LW to L and then change the output speaker number for L to 8. While I get a response out of the LW, I know it is not even close to correct.

I also remember that there is only one way to do this so that (in my example above), I won't end up seeing the left speaker PEQ applied to the LW speaker. I need to be able to apply PEQs to the selected speaker as well. Not sure how I forgot this and the few combinations I tried, while the correct speaker was playing, it was being affected by the wront PEQs and Optimizer settings!

Anyone who has done this who can help me remember how this works, it would be most appreciated.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
When I first got my Altitude 16, I finally figured out how to do this but now that I want to do it again, I can't remember how.

The measurement software I am using can not directly address more than 6 channels (vs the 8 of REW). So when I want to measure a speaker beyond 6, (lets assume for this example, I want to measure the Left Wide), I (thought) I changed the the L for the left speaker to LW and change LW to L and then change the output speaker number for L to 8. While I get a response out of the LW, I know it is not even close to correct.

I also remember that there is only one way to do this so that (in my example above), I won't end up seeing the left speaker PEQ applied to the LW speaker. I need to be able to apply PEQs to the selected speaker as well. Not sure how I forgot this and the few combinations I tried, while the correct speaker was playing, it was being affected by the wront PEQs and Optimizer settings!

Anyone who has done this who can help me remember how this works, it would be most appreciated.

Chuck,
When I measured the > 7.1 speakers with REW, what I did was something like this. Assume you're interested in measuring LW and RW
1) Route the L signal to LW on the Speaker Configuration Menu, and the R signal to RW
2) Leave the other channels alone on that menu (including the L/R)
3) Go to the Outputs Menu, and solo ONLY LW, which mutes all other channels. Then measure "L" in REW/OmniMic.
4) Make any changes to PEQ to LW or with the FIR or Graphic EQ filters for that speaker as desired, or to relative level/delay, and remeasure that solo'ed LW. Rinse and repeat as needed.
5) Go to the Outputs Menu, and solo ONLY RW, which mutes all other channels. Then measure "R" in REW/Omnimic the same way and adjust to taste as with LW.
6) When done with this pair of speakers, switch the Speaker Configuration Menu back to its normal settings (LW=LW, RW=RW).
7) Repeat as desired for other speakers (i.e. your front side surrounds, front heights etc.) with a similar approach. But be careful that what you intend to play, as temporarily rerouted with the input signal, is what you're actually getting .
8) Save preset when you're done

When you're playing "L" (routed to LW) and "R" (routed to RW), you're just sending PCM content to the Altitude - at least that's the case with REW I believe so there shouldn't be any upmix issues. I don't think I changed any output channels temporarily, but it's been a couple of years since I tried this.
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post #11081 of 11780 Old 04-01-2020, 09:09 PM
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Stu: Thanks. I will give this a go tomorrow.

Last edited by audioguy; 04-02-2020 at 05:36 AM.
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post #11082 of 11780 Old 04-02-2020, 12:35 AM
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I would just change the wiring to the power amplifiers.
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post #11083 of 11780 Old 04-02-2020, 05:43 AM
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spare change with an Alt 16

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post #11084 of 11780 Old 04-02-2020, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
spare change with an Alt 16

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aZCaOWutfqg

That’s a WHOLE LOT of spare change!....
Sorry couldn’t resist.
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post #11085 of 11780 Old 04-02-2020, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbquart View Post
Just got my a16 in today and did a quick measure to see what the fuss is about. My mind is blown. I thought the RMC1 and the M17v2 sounded great. I'm hearing so much more and it's so distinct. I have only one issue though. I have my nx7 hooked up to hdmi 2 and it works fine. My Sony oled on hdmi 1 doesn't get a signal. I swapped displays around and only hdmi 2 works. Hdmi 1 only worked when my ub9000 played a 4k Blu-ray at 1080p. Any ideas what the issue could be? Thanks for any input.
HDMI 1-3 are all set to 1.4 by default (for legacy equipment that won't work with HDMI V2.0) If you click on the Output tab it will bring up the HDMI settings menu, you can then change them to V2.0

EDIT

This applies to the INPUTS, if you change HDMI 1-3 to HDMI V2.0 i don't know if it actually changes HDMI OUT 1 or not, so sorry if i've given you incorrect information as i only have HDMI OUT 2 connected.

Hope that helps, i've only had mine nearly 2 weeks, big learning curve, but loving it.
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Panasonic OLED TX-65EZ1002B(ISF Calibrated),Oppo UDP-205,Trinnov Altitude 16
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AV Cabinet: BDI OLA in chocolate Walnut.,AV Cabinet: BDI OLA in chocolate Walnut.

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post #11086 of 11780 Old 04-03-2020, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post
Chuck,
When I measured the > 7.1 speakers with REW, what I did was something like this. Assume you're interested in measuring LW and RW
1) Route the L signal to LW on the Speaker Configuration Menu, and the R signal to RW
2) Leave the other channels alone on that menu (including the L/R)
3) Go to the Outputs Menu, and solo ONLY LW, which mutes all other channels. Then measure "L" in REW/OmniMic.
4) Make any changes to PEQ to LW or with the FIR or Graphic EQ filters for that speaker as desired, or to relative level/delay, and remeasure that solo'ed LW. Rinse and repeat as needed.
5) Go to the Outputs Menu, and solo ONLY RW, which mutes all other channels. Then measure "R" in REW/Omnimic the same way and adjust to taste as with LW.
6) When done with this pair of speakers, switch the Speaker Configuration Menu back to its normal settings (LW=LW, RW=RW).
7) Repeat as desired for other speakers (i.e. your front side surrounds, front heights etc.) with a similar approach. But be careful that what you intend to play, as temporarily rerouted with the input signal, is what you're actually getting .
8) Save preset when you're done

When you're playing "L" (routed to LW) and "R" (routed to RW), you're just sending PCM content to the Altitude - at least that's the case with REW I believe so there shouldn't be any upmix issues. I don't think I changed any output channels temporarily, but it's been a couple of years since I tried this.
Stu: That seems to have done the trick. For just doing FR measurements and to check levels, I can make every speaker use the L speaker as an input source, and then go down the line and "Solo" each one individually to measure it.

The only issue I ran into was that if I measure, for example, the right speaker directly, but then remeasure it using the L input, the levels are not the same.

Thanks again.
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post #11087 of 11780 Old 04-03-2020, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
Stu: That seems to have done the trick. For just doing FR measurements and to check levels, I can make every speaker use the L speaker as an input source, and then go down the line and "Solo" each one individually to measure it.

The only issue I ran into was that if I measure, for example, the right speaker directly, but then remeasure it using the L input, the levels are not the same.

Thanks again.
So this is one part I'm still uninformed about. I did get Omnimic, but not sure what's next

When you professionals run REW, what are you trying to achieve? To use PEQ to 'smooth' things for each of your speakers, following which you take out the Trinnov mic and re-run the optimizer? How much of a difference does this get? Did you try switching between presets that you've used this approach, vs. just letting the Optimizer do its magic preset, and had clear sonic differences?

Do you do this measurement process for each of your speakers and Subs?
Considering 7.2.14 this seems like a huge investment, but I'm anyway in lock-down mode, and happy to try and squeeze any ounce of improvement from my system

Thanks!
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post #11088 of 11780 Old 04-03-2020, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ShaharT View Post
So this is one part I'm still uninformed about. I did get Omnimic, but not sure what's next

When you professionals run REW, what are you trying to achieve? To use PEQ to 'smooth' things for each of your speakers, following which you take out the Trinnov mic and re-run the optimizer? How much of a difference does this get? Did you try switching between presets that you've used this approach, vs. just letting the Optimizer do its magic preset, and had clear sonic differences?

Do you do this measurement process for each of your speakers and Subs?
Considering 7.2.14 this seems like a huge investment, but I'm anyway in lock-down mode, and happy to try and squeeze any ounce of improvement from my system

Thanks!
Chuck has professional experience in his career and does some calibrations for hire in his retirement - I'm just a more hands-on hobbyist. So I'll speak just for myself on how I use PEQ. I'll warn you that you're getting into the rabbit hole. My answers are simplifications of a process, and there's a whole group of REW users that discuss that software ad nauseum on AVS. Less so for Omnimic but it's easier to use.

For me, I use PEQ three ways:
1) To add filters, typically with either REW's Auto EQ settings or ideally Multi-Sub Optimization, to improve the smoothness of the frequency response for the combined sub response. You use this alongside the tools of the Altitude to make the Trinnov Optimizer's job easier, as the Q filters can have higher resolution for fine adjustment in the very low bass than the more general octave smoothing setting for the IIR region. That's an advanced setting; if you're just using the Optimizer wizard, it's even more the case as it has default settings for the octave smoothing/energy correction.

You verify the impact by measuring the before/after response in REW or similar software (e.g .Omnimic) at the critical MLP seat as well as for other critical seats. The goal at a minimum is seat to seat consistency if you have more than one seat. So you might go through iterations of sub placement, PEQ changes, assessment, and possibly rewind to see if you can do better. This also includes the level setting for individual subs and delay, which is a separate subject to itself.The expert pros (e.g. Adam Pelz or Curt Hoyt) might spend most of one day, at least, getting the performance to be "right" as much as possible, and have other metrics based on critical listening they use to shape the sound.

2) After the calibration, I measure my speakers and the sub response (at this point, the combined speaker response) and run REW to check that the levels set by the Optimizer match up and tweak as needed. If you then look at pairs of speakers (e.g. L/R, or center vs. L or R) and see some minor but audible discrepancies in the frequency response due to room characteristics, and the tweaks are minor (+/- a few db) but can audible, you can use PEQ to try to impact that or the FIR curve editor at the speaker level. Changes to PEQ would be made on top of the filters you have in place for the acoustic correction. So you would want to have a base PEQ file with the adjustments you made before acoustic correction saved to be re-loaded as needed before new calibrations, but the changes here supplement the base settings and should NOT be in place before running the new calibration.

3) Some people use a technique called "Bass EQ" to tweak individual films for specific settings to bring out lower (especially ULF) bass. A whole thread exists on AVS with the filters to be added. These settings could be entered in with PEQ and saved on a case by case basis, to be loaded as needed on top of the PEQ settings in 1) and 2).

These aren't things to do lightly, so if you're just working with the Configuration Wizard, you'd be best served by working with a pro or Trinnov support to at least get you through the calibration process with PEQ first before you try yourself. And always do any changes carefully, step by step, to make sure they're appropriate for your HT. Having a baseline preset and one or more presets that document the changes you make is also highly recommended.

I know this sounds like a lot of work, and it is. However, if you reach the level of response you want, it's rewarding. But be prepared to invest time that you could spend watching the Zappa nightly music concert shows that have been broadcast during the lockdown where you are . I know some of that music from trips to your country, and we watched in my HT thanks to Apple TV and Facebook having the saved videos...next best thing to being there....
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post #11089 of 11780 Old 04-03-2020, 09:12 AM
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Stu's explanation is excellent.

I would add one caveat. Be careful and "Do No Harm". Not a big deal in the bass (but it is still a "deal") but be very careful of large Q (narrow octave) adjustments and large positive gains. And sometimes large is not very large. I'm sure REW, when auto calculating the PEQs, gives you the ability to limit the amount of gain. I know OmniMic provides that ability. Make sure you use it. There are at least two dangers if you don't: (1) if you are not doing what Stu discussed (checking response at surrounding seats) there is a chance that what you fix at the MLP will make it worse at the other seats. I know both products allow averaging and I recommend you investigate that; and (2) if you "play your cards wrong", you can easily blow drivers. When using another room correction product almost 30 years ago, I managed to blow tweeters in my Wilson speakers; and to make sure I was a certified idiot on that subject, I did it again a few months later. VERY EXPENSIVE error since the tweeters wire soldered in place.

Be careful and quickly seek qualified assistance (and that is a lot more than getting some non-real time help on this thread).
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post #11090 of 11780 Old 04-03-2020, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
Stu's explanation is excellent.

I would add one caveat. Be careful and "Do No Harm". Not a big deal in the bass (but it is still a "deal") but be very careful of large Q (narrow octave) adjustments and large positive gains. And sometimes large is not very large. I'm sure REW, when auto calculating the PEQs, gives you the ability to limit the amount of gain. I know OmniMic provides that ability. Make sure you use it. There are at least two dangers if you don't: (1) if you are not doing what Stu discussed (checking response at surrounding seats) there is a chance that what you fix at the MLP will make it worse at the other seats. I know both products allow averaging and I recommend you investigate that; and (2) if you "play your cards wrong", you can easily blow drivers. When using another room correction product almost 30 years ago, I managed to blow tweeters in my Wilson speakers; and to make sure I was a certified idiot on that subject, I did it again a few months later. VERY EXPENSIVE error since the tweeters wire soldered in place.

Be careful and quickly seek qualified assistance (and that is a lot more than getting some non-real time help on this thread).

I'll go with that. Do no harm is the #1 commandment of successful hands-on calibration.

FWIW there's a school of thought that it's OK to make MLP worse if you want seat to seat consistency, meaning you're reducing the variation between seats, and can apply PEQ or acoustic correction uniformly to all of the relevant locations to correct the response across the board (i.e. for three seats) to your target goals as a result to the measurements you've made with spatial averaging. But that is more appropriate for correcting dips; you generally don't want to add non-trivial gain to MLP that makes another seat that already has a peak even more peaky...
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post #11091 of 11780 Old 04-04-2020, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post
Chuck has professional experience in his career and does some calibrations for hire in his retirement - I'm just a more hands-on hobbyist. So I'll speak just for myself on how I use PEQ. I'll warn you that you're getting into the rabbit hole. My answers are simplifications of a process, and there's a whole group of REW users that discuss that software ad nauseum on AVS. Less so for Omnimic but it's easier to use.

For me, I use PEQ three ways:
1) To add filters, typically with either REW's Auto EQ settings or ideally Multi-Sub Optimization, to improve the smoothness of the frequency response for the combined sub response. You use this alongside the tools of the Altitude to make the Trinnov Optimizer's job easier, as the Q filters can have higher resolution for fine adjustment in the very low bass than the more general octave smoothing setting for the IIR region. That's an advanced setting; if you're just using the Optimizer wizard, it's even more the case as it has default settings for the octave smoothing/energy correction.

You verify the impact by measuring the before/after response in REW or similar software (e.g .Omnimic) at the critical MLP seat as well as for other critical seats. The goal at a minimum is seat to seat consistency if you have more than one seat. So you might go through iterations of sub placement, PEQ changes, assessment, and possibly rewind to see if you can do better. This also includes the level setting for individual subs and delay, which is a separate subject to itself.The expert pros (e.g. Adam Pelz or Curt Hoyt) might spend most of one day, at least, getting the performance to be "right" as much as possible, and have other metrics based on critical listening they use to shape the sound.

2) After the calibration, I measure my speakers and the sub response (at this point, the combined speaker response) and run REW to check that the levels set by the Optimizer match up and tweak as needed. If you then look at pairs of speakers (e.g. L/R, or center vs. L or R) and see some minor but audible discrepancies in the frequency response due to room characteristics, and the tweaks are minor (+/- a few db) but can audible, you can use PEQ to try to impact that or the FIR curve editor at the speaker level. Changes to PEQ would be made on top of the filters you have in place for the acoustic correction. So you would want to have a base PEQ file with the adjustments you made before acoustic correction saved to be re-loaded as needed before new calibrations, but the changes here supplement the base settings and should NOT be in place before running the new calibration.

3) Some people use a technique called "Bass EQ" to tweak individual films for specific settings to bring out lower (especially ULF) bass. A whole thread exists on AVS with the filters to be added. These settings could be entered in with PEQ and saved on a case by case basis, to be loaded as needed on top of the PEQ settings in 1) and 2).

These aren't things to do lightly, so if you're just working with the Configuration Wizard, you'd be best served by working with a pro or Trinnov support to at least get you through the calibration process with PEQ first before you try yourself. And always do any changes carefully, step by step, to make sure they're appropriate for your HT. Having a baseline preset and one or more presets that document the changes you make is also highly recommended.

I know this sounds like a lot of work, and it is. However, if you reach the level of response you want, it's rewarding. But be prepared to invest time that you could spend watching the Zappa nightly music concert shows that have been broadcast during the lockdown where you are . I know some of that music from trips to your country, and we watched in my HT thanks to Apple TV and Facebook having the saved videos...next best thing to being there....
Thanks much! Highly educational. Rabbit hole it is
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post #11092 of 11780 Old 04-04-2020, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
The only issue I ran into was that if I measure, for example, the right speaker directly, but then remeasure it using the L input, the levels are not the same.

Problem solved. Operator error! Works perfectly.
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post #11093 of 11780 Old 04-04-2020, 07:06 AM
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Hey All,


Hope everyone is keeping well and safe.. I have a quick question that I hope can be answered here...


I recently sold my Altitude 16 and purchased an Altitude 32. The AL32 has more input options so what I was wondering is would I be better of purchasing a dedicated sound card for my HTPC maybe with DB25 output that I can then connect to the AL32?


If so would this have any benefit over using my GPU (AMD Sapphire Vega 64) HDMI out ? This is for movie viewing so will be for multichannel. I am trying to get the best possible output into the AL32 so if there is an option where I can purchase a dedicated sound card for the HTPC and use that instead of the GPU HDMI out I will consider this.


I appreciate any advice and tips , thank you
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post #11094 of 11780 Old 04-04-2020, 12:22 PM
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if you need to bitstream (to access atmos etc) then you'd have to stick with HDMI
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post #11095 of 11780 Old 04-04-2020, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 3ll3d00d View Post
if you need to bitstream (to access atmos etc) then you'd have to stick with HDMI

Thank you, I will stick with the HDMI out on my GPU in that case as I am indeed doing Bitstream


Another question I have is if I wanted to use a DB25 cable from my Altitude to my Amplitude rather than XLR cables, will there be any benefit/disadvantage to this at all or is it just a cleaner simpler (one cable connection) rather than having 8 separate XLR cables?


Here are the two I have been looking at:


Vandamme DB25 to DB25


https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/28286423039...iABEgIIdPD_BwE


or


Mogami Gold AES/EBU DB25 to DB25


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mogami-Go...wAAOSwjzdeJynI




Now what I was wondering is would it make any difference in performance if I purchased the Mogami over the Vandamme or if there would be no noticeable difference as they are both reputable brands?




Finally I know that if you use the DB25 output you should not be using the XLR cables as well at the same time so in order to prevent any accidental XLR plugging into any of the XLR outputs on the back of my Altitude, I was looking to purchase these caps:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/12302916138...SABEgKtEvD_BwE



As these are gold plated, would it still be best not to use them in conjunction with the DB25 cable at the same time or will it not be an issue? or will it be better to used an empty xlr cap like this one:


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Korg-Trit...K079RxkKLniIuA


Thank you and apologies for so many questions

Last edited by mkohman; 04-04-2020 at 11:22 PM.
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post #11096 of 11780 Old 04-05-2020, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkohman View Post
Another question I have is if I wanted to use a DB25 cable from my Altitude to my Amplitude rather than XLR cables, will there be any benefit/disadvantage to this at all or is it just a cleaner simpler (one cable connection) rather than having 8 separate XLR cables?
No, it´s just cleaner and simpler.

Quote:
Now what I was wondering is would it make any difference in performance if I purchased the Mogami over the Vandamme or if there would be no noticeable difference as they are both reputable brands?

I got mine custom made for ~$80 each (with XLR plugs for my DSPs on one side).

Quote:
Finally I know that if you use the DB25 output you should not be using the XLR cables as well at the same time so in order to prevent any accidental XLR plugging into any of the XLR outputs on the back of my Altitude, I was looking to purchase these caps:
Really? I was under the impression they can be used in parallel.
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post #11097 of 11780 Old 04-05-2020, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by hockyAVS View Post
Really? I was under the impression they can be used in parallel.
Thanks you for your help. Sorry what I meant was.. Let's say you are using a DB25 for the first 8 channels on the AL32, you shouldn't be using any xlr outs from the AL32 between output 1-8. That's my understanding. You can use from out put 9 onwards if you are only using the 1 x DB25 Cable for channels 1-8. Someone will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that's what Tom Garret himself told me in the ISE 2020 in Amsterdam in February. Thank you

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Last edited by mkohman; 04-05-2020 at 01:48 AM.
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post #11098 of 11780 Old 04-05-2020, 12:50 AM
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You can use from out put 9 onwards if you are only using the 1 x DB25 Cable for channels 1-8.
This part is/was clear to me.

Quote:
Thanks you for your help. Sorry what I meant was.. Let's say you are using a DB25 for the first 8 channels on the AL32, you should be using any xlr outs from the AL32 between output 1-8.
This is the part surprising me. Actually, i don´t have a use-case for that , i just never heard about this "limitation".
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post #11099 of 11780 Old 04-05-2020, 01:53 AM
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This part is/was clear to me.



This is the part surprising me. Actually, i don´t have a use-case for that , i just never heard about this "limitation".

Apologies if I have not been clear.. My understanding is this.. If you are using a DB25 connection for a specific number of channels, you should not be using the XLR outs for those same channels. It's either one or the other.


As can also be confirmed in the picture it says "Do not connect DB25 and XLR simultaneously".
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Last edited by mkohman; 04-05-2020 at 02:05 AM.
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post #11100 of 11780 Old 04-05-2020, 10:27 AM
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Sorry if these have already been answered but i tried to look before i ask.

I do not have a Trinnov yet but i am planning to get one (Altitude 32) in the near future.

1-Would DTS:X Pro work on most audio formats, like would it upmix a DTS-HD/Dolby HD/Atmos to 32 channels? How about standard DD/DTS 5.1? As DTS:X Pro is new i didn't find it in the Trinnov Altitude manual yet.

I am asking as i have already an extra 10 channels of amplification and i can get one more amp for a good deal. then will plan speakers later on in step two.

2-What's the max channel count for speakers an Altitude 32 could do? from what i have read/seen its 30 for speakers and 2 channels for subs correct? (i know about the Altitude 48 EXT but i am excluding that)

3-Is there a chart/graph that has all the full names of speaker locations required by DTS:X pro as some abbreviations are confusing (For example LSS/LS/LSR/CS)

4-In the Altitude 32 the speaker connection are half balanced and half analogue right? XLR/RCA

Thanks

Processors Marantz AV8805 & miniDSP 2x4 HD Amps Crown DCI/N x2 CT8150 x1 Speakers JBL PRO M2 x3 708i x4 328c x6 Subs SVS SB16 x4 Screen SI 160 Slate AT 1.2 Projector Optoma UHZ65 4K Media HTPC w/madVR Cables Wireworld,Hosa & Belden

Last edited by Balbolito; 04-05-2020 at 10:33 AM.
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