$60,000 Dedicated Home Theater Build - Requesting Advice - Page 41 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1201 of 1442 Old 08-05-2016, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
Haha, love it! Too true. Except now it's more like the "$100,000 Dedicated Home Theater Build". It's been a lot more complex and costly to build the room the way we have.
Welcome to the hobby. Each theater I have built has had the same issue, what we used to call in the software design world "feature creep". Once the theater is completed and you and your family are enjoying watching movies, that extra $30,000 will be a distant memory [or maybe not so distant ].
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post #1202 of 1442 Old 08-05-2016, 07:53 AM
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Just to make sure MinnesotaGreg can enjoy his second cup of coffee on Friday morning, here is a late-night post to show the progress today. Don’t spill…Until then, enjoy your coffee!


The latest theater build pics, cup of coffee, and Friday morning, life is great and this moment is the highlight of my weekend. I'm dying to work on my theater but I have family functions, bday parties, relatives visiting, and all kinds a crap preventing me from working on the theater.


After your carpet guy finishes you're on the home stretch for equipment install then show time!!!
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post #1203 of 1442 Old 08-05-2016, 08:30 AM
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After your carpet guy finishes you're on the home stretch for equipment install then show time!!!
You are forgetting about all the acoustic panel tiles which must be built and installed....

Starting is easy, finishing the last 5% is always hardest, right?

Hopefully we will be blessed with some carpeting pictures later today!!
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post #1204 of 1442 Old 08-05-2016, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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You are forgetting about all the acoustic panel tiles which must be built and installed....

Starting is easy, finishing the last 5% is always hardest, right?

Hopefully we will be blessed with some carpeting pictures later today!!
I'm getting my acoustic panels through Nyal. The original estimate for all my AT panels was 3-4 weeks. Earlier this week it crept up to 4-6 weeks. Today, Nyal informed me that one of the suppliers is now telling him 12-14 weeks lead time...uggh. Nyal is looking for another supplier! I don't want to wait that long...sheesh.

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1205 of 1442 Old 08-05-2016, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaGreg View Post
The latest theater build pics, cup of coffee, and Friday morning, life is great and this moment is the highlight of my weekend. I'm dying to work on my theater but I have family functions, bday parties, relatives visiting, and all kinds a crap preventing me from working on the theater.


After your carpet guy finishes you're on the home stretch for equipment install then show time!!!
No worries, you will get there. I'm glad to hear your Friday morning was a little better...haha. I am hoping we are on the home stretch!

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1206 of 1442 Old 08-06-2016, 03:02 AM - Thread Starter
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It’s 3:45 AM and I just woke up in a sweat, remembering I needed to make a post for Saturday morning coffee!

Today (yesterday) the carpet was mostly completed, except the section we purposefully left out for the lower-extended screen wall cabinets. The installer has been at it for 40 years and said our install was about a 9.5 to 10 out of 10 on the difficulty scale due to the riser, the riser vents, the stairs, stair lights, subwoofer vents, columns, threshold transition from a different level, baseboards and lower-extended screen wall. Apparently it was not very straightforward, but he got it done. The carpet truly looks great with the paint colors we have in the room. It is not thick, but is super plush and feels great.

The lighting was a new system the low-voltage lighting guy had never used. It is all IP-based though. I was the guinea pig. That’s ok, because I’m used to working through the problems associated with new technology all the time. We got all the soffit lights up and a test RGB strip. We got the soffit lights going, but there are some weird anomalies going on, which I won’t get into. Most of the system is communicating, but we definitely have some work to do. I didn’t pick the system, the lighting guy did, but he said he has heard good things about it. It’s from China and came with limited instructions, so we will need to contact the company in the coming days. At least we got the soffit lights operating, for the most part.

We are doing a total of four lighting zones, all low-voltage (12v). The soffit lights go all the way around the room, except for where the projector will extend under the rear soffit. We didn’t want the light on top of it. The contractors built a light-tray all the way around the room, so we will put RBG LED strips around the soffit perimeter, on the steps and around the screen.

On Monday, the contractor will make what I believe is his last appearance. The local theater company is coming with gear. Together we will install projector, screen, speakers and vents. We also need to figure out and build a small perimeter around, but just inside the screen framing in order to barely recess the RBG LED strip. We should also be able to build the Auralex Platsheet (foam) boxes around the two additional subwoofers in the front of the, soon-to-be lower-extended screen wall.

My biggest disappointment came when after the door guy finished putting in the seals on the STC-50 door, I could hear him yelling in the room with the door closed, a lot more than I thought I would. All the walls are built great, but there is a leak in the door or door frame. The door guy was nice, but basically pointed a finger at the frame. I told him I didn’t want to have spent all the time and effort to sound isolate and have the door/frame leak. So he is coming back Monday to work with the contractor. I hope they can figure it out. When the door guy left Monday, the door was tight on the bottom corner, but closing. After the carpet guy was done, we could not even close the door…a bit concerned on that! Really nothing has been easy on this project.

These photos don’t do the room colors or carpet justice. They were just taken with a smartphone. Once we get it all done, I will use a better camera to try and capture what it really looks like, which we think is really good. It does give you the idea though.
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1207 of 1442 Old 08-06-2016, 11:08 PM
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How did he deal between the door frame and the stud. I'm in the middle of my build. I haven't put the door in yet, but I did a test fit. There is usually a 1/4" gap all the way around the door for shimming. That would have to be filled with something for the best results. There may be a gap there that is letting sound through if it is only covered by trim.

My Theater Build: The Underground Apolkalypse Theater
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post #1208 of 1442 Old 08-07-2016, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
It’s 3:45 AM and I just woke up in a sweat, remembering I needed to make a post for Saturday morning coffee!

Today (yesterday) the carpet was mostly completed, except the section we purposefully left out for the lower-extended screen wall cabinets. The installer has been at it for 40 years and said our install was about a 9.5 to 10 out of 10 on the difficulty scale due to the riser, the riser vents, the stairs, stair lights, subwoofer vents, columns, threshold transition from a different level, baseboards and lower-extended screen wall. Apparently it was not very straightforward, but he got it done. The carpet truly looks great with the paint colors we have in the room. It is not thick, but is super plush and feels great.

The lighting was a new system the low-voltage lighting guy had never used. It is all IP-based though. I was the guinea pig. That’s ok, because I’m used to working through the problems associated with new technology all the time. We got all the soffit lights up and a test RGB strip. We got the soffit lights going, but there are some weird anomalies going on, which I won’t get into. Most of the system is communicating, but we definitely have some work to do. I didn’t pick the system, the lighting guy did, but he said he has heard good things about it. It’s from China and came with limited instructions, so we will need to contact the company in the coming days. At least we got the soffit lights operating, for the most part.

We are doing a total of four lighting zones, all low-voltage (12v). The soffit lights go all the way around the room, except for where the projector will extend under the rear soffit. We didn’t want the light on top of it. The contractors built a light-tray all the way around the room, so we will put RBG LED strips around the soffit perimeter, on the steps and around the screen.

On Monday, the contractor will make what I believe is his last appearance. The local theater company is coming with gear. Together we will install projector, screen, speakers and vents. We also need to figure out and build a small perimeter around, but just inside the screen framing in order to barely recess the RBG LED strip. We should also be able to build the Auralex Platsheet (foam) boxes around the two additional subwoofers in the front of the, soon-to-be lower-extended screen wall.

My biggest disappointment came when after the door guy finished putting in the seals on the STC-50 door, I could hear him yelling in the room with the door closed, a lot more than I thought I would. All the walls are built great, but there is a leak in the door or door frame. The door guy was nice, but basically pointed a finger at the frame. I told him I didn’t want to have spent all the time and effort to sound isolate and have the door/frame leak. So he is coming back Monday to work with the contractor. I hope they can figure it out. When the door guy left Monday, the door was tight on the bottom corner, but closing. After the carpet guy was done, we could not even close the door…a bit concerned on that! Really nothing has been easy on this project.

These photos don’t do the room colors or carpet justice. They were just taken with a smartphone. Once we get it all done, I will use a better camera to try and capture what it really looks like, which we think is really good. It does give you the idea though.
i did't realize you were doing 2 pair of side surrounds? what kinda spread in-between each on center do you have?

jim

ps carpet looks sweet. all blacked out! nice!
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post #1209 of 1442 Old 08-07-2016, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siuengr View Post
How did he deal between the door frame and the stud. I'm in the middle of my build. I haven't put the door in yet, but I did a test fit. There is usually a 1/4" gap all the way around the door for shimming. That would have to be filled with something for the best results. There may be a gap there that is letting sound through if it is only covered by trim.
i made sure my shims only touched the outer double wall. the jam doesn't touch my inner wall at all. the gap is stuffed with insulation where able without really packing it in there. the whole jam to drywall gap you are talking about is sealed with acoustic sealant all the way around. that's how most do it here i know.

jim
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post #1210 of 1442 Old 08-07-2016, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jimim View Post
i made sure my shims only touched the outer double wall. the jam doesn't touch my inner wall at all. the gap is stuffed with insulation where able without really packing it in there. the whole jam to drywall gap you are talking about is sealed with acoustic sealant all the way around. that's how most do it here i know.

jim
Doesn't sound like the jam is the issue. That's how I am planning to do it as well. Not a whole lot else to it, either the door or the seal. Hope you get it figured out.

My Theater Build: The Underground Apolkalypse Theater
Marantz SR7010, Monolith 7 Amplifier, Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB
Epson 5040ub, Oppo UHD-203 Player, Xbox One, nVidia Shield
Atmos 7.3.4 - Polk 2x RTiA9, CSiA6, 2x FXiA6, 2x RTIA3, 4x 70-RT
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post #1211 of 1442 Old 08-07-2016, 04:09 PM - Thread Starter
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i did't realize you were doing 2 pair of side surrounds? what kinda spread in-between each on center do you have?

jim

ps carpet looks sweet. all blacked out! nice!
Front Side Surrounds are 72" on center from Rear Side Surrounds.

Thanks, we really like the carpet. The painter did a good job matching all the paints, fabrics and carpet from what we were looking to do.

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1212 of 1442 Old 08-07-2016, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siuengr View Post
How did he deal between the door frame and the stud. I'm in the middle of my build. I haven't put the door in yet, but I did a test fit. There is usually a 1/4" gap all the way around the door for shimming. That would have to be filled with something for the best results. There may be a gap there that is letting sound through if it is only covered by trim.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post
i made sure my shims only touched the outer double wall. the jam doesn't touch my inner wall at all. the gap is stuffed with insulation where able without really packing it in there. the whole jam to drywall gap you are talking about is sealed with acoustic sealant all the way around. that's how most do it here i know.

jim
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Originally Posted by siuengr View Post
Doesn't sound like the jam is the issue. That's how I am planning to do it as well. Not a whole lot else to it, either the door or the seal. Hope you get it figured out.
I think I made a pretty detailed post about the door and frame with pictures a while back. In short, it's basically as Jimim described. We had a steel frame welded. It was deeper than the walls on both sides. We left enough of a gap so that the exterior two layers of gypsum did not quite touch and the two layers of gypsum on the inside were about 1/4" away from the door frame. We stuffed the frame with insulation (not too tightly) and then pushed the sheetrock against the insulation. We used generous amounts of acoustical caulk (Sikaflex 1a) around the perimeter of the frame on both sides. It was OK for the exterior layers of gypsum to contact the exterior door frame, but ours did not. It was not OK for the interior layers of gypsum to touch the door frame. Those did not touch either. The sheetrock was pushed inside the throat of the frame as much as possible, pushing up against the insulation, but not making hard contact with the frame.

I hope that answers your question.

The construction around the door frame isn't our problem. In fact, when the carpet was installed, the door won't even close now. I have the door guy and the lead foreman here tomorrow morning. Hopefully they can fix the issue(s) without any problem...hopefully!

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1213 of 1442 Old 08-07-2016, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday we were able to find what was causing the odd behavior with the lighting. It was the wall control panel. Fortunately, this lighting system works over IP and is wireless to boot. We disconnected the wall control panel and it was all working correctly. Time to replace that wall panel!

We added the strips of RBG LED tape around the ceiling perimeter, but have not glued/taped it down yet. So it's up there loose for now and is why it doesn't show even. It will!

We are able to change the colors to whatever we want. The documentation says 16 million colors. I'm sure that's the theory, but it's not that much in reality. There are many colors though.

We are able to dim the RBG strips and soffit lights down to 5%, which is pretty dramatic. It all is controlled over an iOS or Android app (or the wall panel we are replacing) with many different configurations, scenes, modes, groups, etc.

Here are some pictures with it on at 100% for both zones. We will be adding a stair zone and a screen zone for a total of four zones. Again, my smartphone camera does not do it justice, but it gives you the idea.
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1214 of 1442 Old 08-07-2016, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
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I think I made a pretty detailed post about the door and frame with pictures a while back. In short, it's basically as Jimim described. We had a steel frame welded. It was deeper than the walls on both sides. We left enough of a gap so that the exterior two layers of gypsum did not quite touch and the two layers of gypsum on the inside were about 1/4" away from the door frame. We stuffed the frame with insulation (not too tightly) and then pushed the sheetrock against the insulation. We used generous amounts of acoustical caulk (Sikaflex 1a) around the perimeter of the frame on both sides. It was OK for the exterior layers of gypsum to contact the exterior door frame, but ours did not. It was not OK for the interior layers of gypsum to touch the door frame. Those did not touch either. The sheetrock was pushed inside the throat of the frame as much as possible, pushing up against the insulation, but not making hard contact with the frame.

I hope that answers your question.

The construction around the door frame isn't our problem. In fact, when the carpet was installed, the door won't even close now. I have the door guy and the lead foreman here tomorrow morning. Hopefully they can fix the issue(s) without any problem...hopefully!
Regards to the door closing. That is something my buddy and myself made sure at the shop we hit right on the head. We made sure the bottom of the door was as short as possible to clear final flooring and let the drop down seal do the work to make contact. Mine was easier cause my door opens out onto a hardwood landing that was built by myself and the hardwood was run at my buddy's shop so we had complete control over everything. He even said no way we are cutting off length at the bottom of the door cause of how it was built and my door seal is mortised into the bottom of my door so it's hiden. I hope they. An come up with something. If they cut off the bottom won't it ruin the layers the door was made up of or maybe they built the door with extra banding around the bottom so u can cut off a little.
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post #1215 of 1442 Old 08-09-2016, 10:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Regards to the door closing. That is something my buddy and myself made sure at the shop we hit right on the head. We made sure the bottom of the door was as short as possible to clear final flooring and let the drop down seal do the work to make contact. Mine was easier cause my door opens out onto a hardwood landing that was built by myself and the hardwood was run at my buddy's shop so we had complete control over everything. He even said no way we are cutting off length at the bottom of the door cause of how it was built and my door seal is mortised into the bottom of my door so it's hiden. I hope they. An come up with something. If they cut off the bottom won't it ruin the layers the door was made up of or maybe they built the door with extra banding around the bottom so u can cut off a little.
Lucky dog! I wish I had a friend that could do my door well.

Fortunately, I believe we got the door fixed. They had to pound the frame into wall a bit more with a 2x4. It still didn't make hard contact inside the throat of the frame though, because we had all that insulation in there. So we maintained separation. However, putting the frame a good 1/8" further out, helped the door finally close and seal. We have minor caulking and painting to do now, but the door does close and it sounds pretty silent.

The door is pretty tough to close still. Is that normal? The things remaining on the door are to replace the threshold in about 2 weeks when it comes in. Also, there is a tiny little hole in the very bottom corner, where the bottom of the door and threshold meet. I heard a faint whistling when the door was closed and I can see a tiny spec of light from outside the room when the lights are off, so there is a tiny little leak for sure. I believe that can be easily fixed when he puts the new threshold on.

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1216 of 1442 Old 08-09-2016, 10:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are a few pictures of two of my Deep Sea Sound custom Marianas, which were installed in the rear riser. Can't wait to fire these up!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1217 of 1442 Old 08-09-2016, 11:02 PM - Thread Starter
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We were able to get the projector up...yay! We ordered a 120" scope screen. Unfortunately, when we put the frame together, it seemed small to me. I measured and it was only a 110" wide screen...dang. The local company I'm working with apologized for the mistake and ordered a new screen right away. They said it will take about 2 weeks for us to get the screen here, so in the meantime they let me borrow a "loaner". I just connected a Blu-ray player to the back and fired it up...had to be done!

As you can see, the location of the projector changed from the original design due to a few factors. There were nothing but "up-sides" to the new location, except that we had already put the fiber optic cable/conduit, electrical and Ethernet jacks in the ceiling where the projector was going to go. While it's a much better place to have it, now I have to deal with how to make it look better. If you have any ideas, let me know!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1218 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 04:53 AM
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Looks great! Been following this thread since the first post. Amazing to see how quickly and how well it all came together.


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post #1219 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 05:57 AM
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The Subwoofer installation looks totaly perfect..BIG but discreet . .to hide four big 18" Subs is not easy. .

Can´t wait to see the Procellas in place
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AMP: Trinnov 8-8, 4xProcella DA-05, CROWN CT-4150
Speakers: LCR Procella P610, Rears: Procella P5V, Hight: Procella P5V, Sub: Procella P10-Fp
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post #1220 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
If you have any ideas, let me know!
Wireless power receptacle is what I would use. Transmitter plugs into the ceiling plug, and power cord can be tucked up above the PJ with the other side's module.
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post #1221 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adk. View Post
Looks great! Been following this thread since the first post. Amazing to see how quickly and how well it all came together.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by jolt72 View Post
The Subwoofer installation looks totaly perfect..BIG but discreet . .to hide four big 18" Subs is not easy. .

Can´t wait to see the Procellas in place
Thanks! So far we like how it is turning out.

The subs and speakers were all a pretty significant challenge. We tried to balance performance with aesthetics. With @dgage and @Nyal Mellor and our contractor's assistance, I'm pretty happy with the way they are turning out. Can't wait to hear them!

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1222 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
Wireless power receptacle is what I would use. Transmitter plugs into the ceiling plug, and power cord can be tucked up above the PJ with the other side's module.
Hey beastaudio! Nice to see you here!!

With the current design, that power receptacle is acting as a very long extension cord through the house to the mechanical room. In the mechanical room, we have a very long cord coming out of the wall, which will plug into the back of the UPS to backup the projector.

Would a wireless receptacle still work in that application?

I was also considering putting an acoustic panel back there, or at least a fake one. We have 2 of 2" panels in the front ceiling tray that will be 2' x 8' wide across the room. In front and behind the front ceiling speakers. One idea was to build a small panel in front of the projector on the ceiling that we could put all those cables into. Not sure how to do it, but would appreciate ideas!

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1223 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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The ceiling speakers are in! Here are the conceptual drawings and pictures of how they turned out. These are closeups, but I will show zoomed out pictures in another post. These babies aren't going anywhere!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1224 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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The side surround and rear speakers are in! Here are conceptual drawings and pictures of how they turned out.

We had a hard time finding a good bracket that was thin, would allow us a 45-degree angle and fit in a keyhole only mount as the P5s have. At the last minute, our contractors Rusty and Lynn came up with a brilliant idea to make a little back piece. I had already got some brackets for the rear-surround P5s from a custom water jet cutting shop. We made nice, very thin stainless steel brackets which were much better than using a wood screw. Unfortunately, I didn't get the chance to take a picture of them before they were installed. They were really cool though!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1225 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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The original design called for speakers to be hanging on the wall all around us. Subwoofers in all corners. We decided to go through a lot of time and expense in order to recess ALL the speakers and subs. We are super happy we did that!

Here is the original design and pictures of how the speakers were mounted into the speaker backer boxes.

There will be fabric track on the face of the columns around the perimeter and acoustically transparent fabric over the columns. While it doesn't look great now, the design should end up looking great and allowing us to recess all the speakers!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1226 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some more pictures of the speakers, projector and screen from a zoomed out view.

The local installer said it will be about two weeks until we get our 120" wide screen. What you are seeing here is a 110" wide screen, so it's 5" shorter on each side and close to 5" shorter. We did set the screen height to be the same so we only have to install the brackets once.

Also notice we placed our two front subs. The Auralex platsheets (foam) were custom cut around the subs to protect and pad when we put in the lower-extended screen wall cabinets. The sheets are just loose right now, but will be tight against the cabinets once installed.
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1227 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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The door lever is pretty trick. We wanted it to look good but be able to lock it to protect from when our kid's friends are over.

These are shots of the door, the lever, stairs, riser and all the custom vents we had done. The vents are all the same design but were used for the riser vents, subwoofer "grilles", supply vents (not in yet), return air vent and exhaust vent.
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1228 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
Hey beastaudio! Nice to see you here!!

With the current design, that power receptacle is acting as a very long extension cord through the house to the mechanical room. In the mechanical room, we have a very long cord coming out of the wall, which will plug into the back of the UPS to backup the projector.

Would a wireless receptacle still work in that application?

I was also considering putting an acoustic panel back there, or at least a fake one. We have 2 of 2" panels in the front ceiling tray that will be 2' x 8' wide across the room. In front and behind the front ceiling speakers. One idea was to build a small panel in front of the projector on the ceiling that we could put all those cables into. Not sure how to do it, but would appreciate ideas!
I was totally kidding. Far-field wireless power transfers aint somethin' very available for something like that atm, lol. Also, I never left, just been hanging out watching the progress, all is looking great
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post #1229 of 1442 Old 08-10-2016, 12:24 PM
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The side surround and rear speakers are in! Here are conceptual drawings and pictures of how they turned out.
Use more fiberglass to cover any edge. Especially close to the driver. Doesn't matter if the fiberglass protrudes.
I would even cover the whole area at and around the speakers with fluffy fiberglass panels leaving only cutouts for the drivers.

Markus

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post #1230 of 1442 Old 08-11-2016, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday we got the chairs delivered and set up.

Last night we got the system to the point where sounds started coming out of the speakers...what!?! There was video coming out of the projector. All of the speakers and subs were working. We could change sources. We could watch a movie...and we did. OMG OMG OMG! It was SO amazing to finally experience!!!

After a few demo tracks to test functionality, my wife and I watched "Unbroken" the first time at -20.0 dB. I could tell the system had a lot more to give, but we didn't want to push it yet. We had never seen this movie before. The first time I had seen any portion of Unbroken was at the dealer who demo'd for me. What was interesting is ALL the dealers demo'd that opening scene many months ago. I intentionally waited to watch it as our first movie because I knew the opening scene was a great demo of what the system can do and I've heard it was a really good movie, an Atmos movie.

I wasn't disappointed either. The movie was new to us and fantastic! That opening scene literally rocked our world. The system still has a long way to go. We need to provision it further and dial it in. We won't get our acoustic treatments for a while and then after that we will need to calibrate it. Despite how many things we have to do still, I could not believe what I was hearing. It was AMAZING! The tactile feel I was going for...OMG, I got it. Those Deep Sea Sound subs were KILLING it and they were barely moving! The Procellas played super clean, very dynamic and loud. Appropriate loud. It was awesome to hear the dynamic constrasts from nothing to massive explosions, the planes flying over head, the bullets whizzing this way or that.

You can tell the room is well designed because it sounds so good without doing anything to it. It is massively quiet on the quiet parts of the movie. I turned the system down to -30.0 dB after the movie and stepped outside. I could barely hear anything!

Yes, this cost a lot of money. Yes, it was hard, complex and often times frustrating. Just from last night it was ALL worth it! OMG OMG OMG!!!!!!!!
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Peter M, GreySkies, dgage and 11 others like this.

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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