$60,000 Dedicated Home Theater Build - Requesting Advice - Page 45 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1321 of 1442 Old 12-15-2016, 03:57 PM
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Hi Doug,

Maybe I missed it on the iRule thread, but I don't think you filled us in on the results of your lighting control experiments.

I'm keen to hear what you did and how it worked out ?

Cheers,
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post #1322 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougUSMC View Post
Hey Aareses, beautiful thread! I was referred to it by someone for something I was discussing in one of my threads, but I can't even remember what it was!! I spent some time over the last couple of days reading (sometimes skimming) your entire opus, and with so much attention to detail, across so many disparate disciplines, I really can't remember why I came to check out in the first place! Kudos to you for the focus and discipline, you really held true to your vision!


One thing I would offer is help with your lighting solution. I detailed out a similar solution in my thread; check out posts 57, 60, and 64 for the explanation. There were so many questions, I did a walk-thru video on post #73 , and an iRule integration video on post 80.


Short version: I think I have slightly different electrical hardware than you, but it's all controlled through Lutron RadioRA2 controllers in the wall. These communicate to a centralized brain unit via wireless, and you can have iRule to that brain unit pretty easily. As long as you can switch out your controllers with their dimmers &/or switches, you should be able to retro-fit to RA2, and get everything working in iRule.


Alternatively, I saw that one of the hangups was getting the codes from the proprietary devices into iRule. Most of the GlobalCache gear has a learn mode, which I used in my own configuration. That might be helpful for you too, and isn't difficult.


Again, congratulations on a beautiful room, and don't hesitate to reach out if there's anything I can do to help!
Hi DougUSMC! Haha, I get lost in this thread too! It is a lot of information. My goal with it is to help others through decision making processes for design, gear and implementation. I hope you found it helpful or at least entertaining. Thanks for the compliments!

I checked out your lighting on the indicated posts. Well done coming up with a great solution. I thought your videos were great and helped explain the process even more.

You nailed it. One of the problems I'm having is to get the wall controller to function. The other is to get the codes for scenes and "Off" to communicate with iRule. I am not aware of a way to make GlobalCache learn those codes. If you know of a way to make GC work with this lighting system, I would really appreciate that.

While I am not a lighting guru at all, I don't think the solutions you have would work with my system. If I did make a change, I believe I would have to replace my controllers and receivers. Nyal had suggested that, but thought to do it would require around $2,000 to $2,500. Nyal created a design, which I told the lighting contractor to follow, but apparently he didn't. I paid him and he's gone without completing the job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M View Post
Hi Doug,

Maybe I missed it on the iRule thread, but I don't think you filled us in on the results of your lighting control experiments.

I'm keen to hear what you did and how it worked out ?

Cheers,
I have been looking for a new lighting contractor, but am not having any success. I contacted Steven Crabb, who was employee #1 for iRule. He no longer works there, but is well versed in control systems. He isn't a lighting guy though. Steven purchased the same controller I have and he has a MAC. He was able to intercept codes on his MAC and get a few of the features working in iRule. Unfortunately, the system is proprietary, so the codes did not work for my lighting system.

Steven said he will try to make a trip my way and try to capture the codes, but the problem there is if I ever change scenes, the process will have to be repeated.

No clue on how to make the wall controller work and per your advice, we pulled the wall control panel off as we were placing the acoustic treatments. The wiring is still behind the acoustic panel, in case we can find a better solution. For now, it is totally off. No more white!

Another problem cropped up that the stairs won't turn and stay red anymore. They will turn blue or green no problem, but won't stay red. Just yesterday our contractor was here, maybe for the last time. He re-crimped the wiring and it stayed red for about three hours. The next time I went to turn it on, it failed.

The good news is we got the aluminum channel and diffusers up. It's not perfect, but looks way better than it used to.

Bottom line is, I still have several problems with my current lighting system:
1) Integration with iRule.
2) Physical Wall Control Panel.
3) Stair Lighting Working on Red.

It would be great if Steven can get the codes working, but I would just be stuck with the same scenes. Perhaps my contractor can figure out the stair lights. We may just have to go without a wall control panel. All of that or I get lucky enough to find a lighting contractor who can deal with the issues or help replace the system. Lighting is definitely a problem!

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1323 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 07:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are a few pics of the screen lighting change with the DIOEDLED aluminum channels and diffusers. It looks WAY better than before!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1324 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M View Post
Hi Doug,

Maybe I missed it on the iRule thread, but I don't think you filled us in on the results of your lighting control experiments.

I'm keen to hear what you did and how it worked out ?

Cheers,

Hmm, you know, you're right! I don't think I ever went back and closed the loop, I only posted in my build thread. I'll check out what I posted there, and make sure to update it. (Short version, works perfectly!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
You nailed it. One of the problems I'm having is to get the wall controller to function. The other is to get the codes for scenes and "Off" to communicate with iRule. I am not aware of a way to make GlobalCache learn those codes. If you know of a way to make GC work with this lighting system, I would really appreciate that.
So the first question is "Do you have a remote unit for the wall controller?" How do you send a signal to the wall controller, or does the wall controller send a signal to the transformer? Something is sending a signal, and there are a bunch of ways to get iRule to learn codes, through its iLearn software. Here's a LINK to their page, I had a tough time at first, so let me know if I can help decipher anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
While I am not a lighting guru at all, I don't think the solutions you have would work with my system. If I did make a change, I believe I would have to replace my controllers and receivers. Nyal had suggested that, but thought to do it would require around $2,000 to $2,500. Nyal created a design, which I told the lighting contractor to follow, but apparently he didn't. I paid him and he's gone without completing the job.
I don't know how many controllers you'd need, but I can tell you the Lutron RA2 main repeater is $350, a 600w dimmer is $170, and 800w switch is $125. That put my cost, with 3 dimmers and one switch right around a thousand. BUT, I can now use that repeater with any other controllers I add down the road. They're a pretty simple self-install, vs "How much are you paying your current lighting guy, and how much are your lights working in iRule worth for you?"


Quote:
Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
I have been looking for a new lighting contractor, but am not having any success. I contacted Steven Crabb, who was employee #1 for iRule. He no longer works there, but is well versed in control systems. He isn't a lighting guy though. Steven purchased the same controller I have and he has a MAC. He was able to intercept codes on his MAC and get a few of the features working in iRule. Unfortunately, the system is proprietary, so the codes did not work for my lighting system.

Steven said he will try to make a trip my way and try to capture the codes, but the problem there is if I ever change scenes, the process will have to be repeated.
Again, hate to say it, but this is another reason I dug Lutron: I set up all my own scenes and connecting them to iRule took all of about 30 seconds each. If I change the scenes, it's in Lutron,and iRule will automatically adjust.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
Another problem cropped up that the stairs won't turn and stay red anymore. They will turn blue or green no problem, but won't stay red. Just yesterday our contractor was here, maybe for the last time. He re-crimped the wiring and it stayed red for about three hours. The next time I went to turn it on, it failed.
I've had problems with lighting colors too, but it's always been a wiring problem. Then again, mine were done using all standard wiring, nothing custom or proprietary. I thought this was tougher at first, but it turned out to be ABSOLUTELY worth it in the end.
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post #1325 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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There is a remote unit for the system, but like the wall controller, it has never functioned. The only way we can control the lighting is via the Ltech iOS app, which actually works really well, except it only does portrait mode. Here are the current components I have with zones, etc.

Current Problems
1) Wall control panel.
2) Controlled by iRule (like everything else in my theater).
3) Stair lights not staying red.

Links to the known components of Lighting/Control system. Four receivers and thus four zones:
Zone 1 – Spotmod Soffit Downlighting
Zone 2 – RGBW Soffit Cloud Perimeter Lighting
Zone 3 – RGBW Stair Lighting
Zone 4 – RGBW Screen Perimeter Lighting

Ltech LED WiFi 104 Controller
http://ltechonline.com/html/en/LED-C.../WiFi-104.html

R4-CC - CC Zone Receiving Modules – Four Receivers (Found down page on this same link for the controller)
http://ltechonline.com/html/en/LED-C.../WiFi-104.html

Ltech UX8 Touch Panel Wall Controller
http://ltechonline.com/html/en/LED-C...Panel/UX8.html

Spotmod Soffit Lights (1 Receiver/Zone)
https://www.diodeled.com/spotmod-gim...d-fixture.html

RBGW LED Light Strips (3 Receiver/Zones)
No info.

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1326 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pictures of the install process for our acoustic panels. The Listen Audio panels were cut perfectly (CNC Machine) and were very easy to install. The RPG panels were hand cut and had many slight size variations. Lining up two different types of panels with the two different types of install hardware was challenging, but our contractors did a stellar job with a difficult install.

There were two damaged RPG panels (slightly deformed), which Nyal is working to get replaced.
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1327 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is what the panel installation looks like.

Once the room was put back together, my wife and I listened from the front and rear rows. We listened to several music and movie tracks we have heard frequently in our theater. There is a HUGE difference in sound.

Before the acoustic treatments were installed, it sounded really good, but now the characteristics are very different. It sounds like a different room. I can localize all speakers much better now, especially the ceiling and rears which I was having issues hearing. Sound is way more separated and distinct. The room sounds much more musical. The biggest difference is definitely what I call "control". The sound is very controlled now. It's hard to describe, but that is the best way I know how.

My wife is not an audiophile, she just puts up with my desire to have great audio. We listened together for the first time and she was smiling because of the differences she was hearing. It was very easy to tell and is just awesome to listen to! It sounds so much better already!

I can't wait until it's calibrated and we're finally using those fancy Xilica processors!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1328 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 09:20 AM
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came out awesome. i like ur panel setup. alot diff than alot of guys do here. worked out great i think.

good for ur wife noticing the diff! lol if jesus himself built my room and when it was done my wife would still sit there and say. . . "eh, sounds like the upstairs. . . "

jim
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post #1329 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 07:26 PM
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Love it.

In my room, if the change from untreated room to treated room = 10, then the change from treated room to calibrated room was about 3-4.

Cheers,
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post #1330 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 07:40 PM
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Regarding lighting, I also have Lutron RadioRa2 and have had it for over 3 years. Just yesterday I spent too many hours updating RadioRa to the latest version. It took a while because I had no need to update from previous versions untilyesterday when I received the Lutron Connect Bridge (for RadioRa2, not Caseta). Anyway, I updated everything, setup the Connect Bridge, and then preceded to interface with Echo Dots that we're getting for Christmas. One in each kids bedroom, master bedroom, and kitchen/living room. The Alexa setup took less than 15 minutes and I was saying "Alexa, turn off stairs" or Alexa, turn off Master bedroom." Really worked well. Then after a few corrections, I had my wife up to speed on the Alexa lighting commands. I also have a Logitech Harmony Hub that can interface with my TV/Tivo but I'll need to do a little extra work there (third-party Alexa skill) to be able to give commands such as volume up/down.

Overall I highly recommend RadioRa2, it has been absolutely bullet proof. And even though I have true home automation software at my disposal, setting up Alexa was incredibly easy without any automation software and the voice commands work incredibly well.
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"You don't listen to our subs, you EXPERIENCE them!"
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post #1331 of 1442 Old 12-20-2016, 10:35 PM
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There's no RGB controller for RadioRA2


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post #1332 of 1442 Old 12-21-2016, 05:05 AM
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Hi Aareses,
Things are really coming together and looking (and sounding, I'm sure) great!

I'm interested in your equipment built-ins and the design that went into them. Would you mind sharing some details? My main questions are:

1. What is the interior width, depth, and height for each section?
2. Are the shelves on sliders?
3. What steps were taken for cooling of the equipment?
4. What about access to wiring and power?
5. Do you have a UPS in there?

Thanks in advance!


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post #1333 of 1442 Old 12-28-2016, 06:12 AM
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How are those DSS subs working out for you now that you have the room treated?

Have you had it calibrated yet?
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post #1334 of 1442 Old 12-31-2016, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texpilot View Post
Hi Aareses,
Things are really coming together and looking (and sounding, I'm sure) great!

I'm interested in your equipment built-ins and the design that went into them. Would you mind sharing some details? My main questions are:

1. What is the interior width, depth, and height for each section?
2. Are the shelves on sliders?
3. What steps were taken for cooling of the equipment?
4. What about access to wiring and power?
5. Do you have a UPS in there?

Thanks in advance!

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Thank you. It is indeed sounding great. We are thoroughly enjoying it! Apologies for the long response time, but I've been on the mountain just about every day, family from out of state for the holiday...ya know how it goes. Here are some answers to your questions:

1. There is 8" from the front theater wall to the face of the screen wall. The room is 166" wide, finished. Look at the first image on post #1226 , which shows the dimensions you are looking for in great detail. Also post #1085.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/86-ult...l#post45959065

2. The shelves in the wall next to the screen are fixed. The middle shelves under the screen are fixed. The two doors on the left and right both have two big drawers on sliders. NONE of it rattles! Check out post #1264 and #1281 for some pictures. There are other posts with information in that section as well. I don't think I have a picture of the drawers on sliders, so I may have to post one.

3. The equipment is located in a different room from the theater. It is our "mechanical" room which is pretty spacious for a mechanical room. All amps are Class-D. All equipment is in a Strong (brand name) rack with internal fans. There are a bunch of pictures in various posts showing the rack and room.

4. All wiring and power were home run to the mechanical room described above. We have a dedicated 100 amp panel just for the theater equipment. Check out post #998 and #1001 for electrical, ethernet and cabling.

5. Yes. Absolutely! Check out post #1198.

Hope that answers your questions.
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1335 of 1442 Old 12-31-2016, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COACH2369 View Post
How are those DSS subs working out for you now that you have the room treated?

Have you had it calibrated yet?
To answer your question about the DSS subs in detail, read the two links I posted in the DSS thread here:
Post #1 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...l#post49432841
Post #2 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...l#post49433129

In summary, Deep Sea Sound subs are incredible and David Gage is "Mr. Awesome"!

Once I get my sub amp back, calibration is the next step. Looking forward to that day!

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1336 of 1442 Old 12-31-2016, 11:07 AM
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Thanks Aareses, I appreciate the details. Clearly I missed a lot of the earlier posts as I didn't realize the equipment was not below the screen. Thanks again!


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post #1337 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Peter M View Post
Love it.

In my room, if the change from untreated room to treated room = 10, then the change from treated room to calibrated room was about 3-4.

Cheers,
Hey Peter! Thanks for that information. Was it a big enough difference to warrant spending another $2,000 to $3,000 on professional calibration?

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1338 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 05:27 PM
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I know you asked Peter, but I will throw in my two cents. I would say it depends on how good the room is to begin with whether you will notice a big or subtle difference. My best A/B was Wkossman's theater. He has Seaton speakers. Mark kicked us out and when we came back I thought it was a very noticeable difference.
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post #1339 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ericglo View Post
I know you asked Peter, but I will throw in my two cents. I would say it depends on how good the room is to begin with whether you will notice a big or subtle difference. My best A/B was Wkossman's theater. He has Seaton speakers. Mark kicked us out and when we came back I thought it was a very noticeable difference.
Thanks Ericglo. All opinions are welcome!

Was the difference worth $2,000 to $3,000?

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1340 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 06:28 PM
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Not calibrating your theater after all the effort you've gone through would be a massive waste. The rear subs need delaying properly for room mode cancellation to work and provide smooth response and reduce seat to seat variability. EQ needs dialing in to properly shape the sub 150Hz region. The second pair of sides needs properly decorrelating. Reality is that you are probably only getting 70-80 percent, maybe less, of what it should be. Every theater needs calibrating, and yours more than most, because of the four subs and no good automated room correction and the extra pair of sides.


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post #1341 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
Hey Peter! Thanks for that information. Was it a big enough difference to warrant spending another $2,000 to $3,000 on professional calibration?
My calibration cost was much lower than that, but even at that price the answer would be YES !

Cheers,
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post #1342 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post
Not calibrating your theater after all the effort you've gone through would be a massive waste. The rear subs need delaying properly for room mode cancellation to work and provide smooth response and reduce seat to seat variability. EQ needs dialing in to properly shape the sub 150Hz region. The second pair of sides needs properly decorrelating. Reality is that you are probably only getting 70-80 percent, maybe less, of what it should be. Every theater needs calibrating, and yours more than most, because of the four subs and no good automated room correction and the extra pair of sides.


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For my system, I completely agree! I plan to get it calibrated. No way I want to let those fancy Xilica processors go to waste. After seeing Peter's comments, it made me wonder what others' opinions were on the value for their systems.

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My calibration cost was much lower than that, but even at that price the answer would be YES !

Cheers,
Thanks, Peter.

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1343 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 07:00 PM
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When you consider that in order to get the '10' for room treatments I spent something like $10k plus 3-400 hours of my time, the extra cost for calibration to get '3-4' was a no brainer.

Cheers,
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post #1344 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Aareses View Post
Thanks Ericglo. All opinions are welcome!

Was the difference worth $2,000 to $3,000?
I defer to Nyal and Peter on this, as I really have only that one room for a good A/B. Most of the time, I either hear a room already calibrated or not.

Was that one experience worth $2k? Hmmm, it was a noticeable difference. Considering you have come this far then you might as well go all in.

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When you consider that in order to get the '10' for room treatments I spent something like $10k plus 3-400 hours of my time, the extra cost for calibration to get '3-4' was a no brainer.

Cheers,
Don't forget travel. It is funny how certain moments in time stick out and that dinner at Cedia with Keith, Mark, you and me definitely qualifies.
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post #1345 of 1442 Old 01-04-2017, 08:40 PM
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Don't forget travel. It is funny how certain moments in time stick out and that dinner at Cedia with Keith, Mark, you and me definitely qualifies.
Good times !!

Travel costs go under 'C' ... 'C'onveniently forgotten about and never to be mentioned in front of my wife !

Cheers,
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post #1346 of 1442 Old 01-15-2017, 06:45 PM
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Some of the sheetrock has arrived! Most of the work this week has been to box in all the HVAC ducting, dryer vent and one wall, which was not properly blocked at the top of the wall. Tedious, tough and very time-consuming work, but necessary for sound isolation.

Next week, hopefully the subs will actually show up. Scheduled for Monday is low-voltage lighting pre-wire. Tuesday is HVAC. Tuesday and Wednesday is electrical pre-wire. Sometime in the early week I will be dressing out the low-voltage cabling we pulled this week and doing some continuity testing. We have 13 of 12/2 awg for speakers, 4 of 10/2 awg for subs, 9 of CAT6a Ethernet, 2 of 1.5" conduits, 3 Celerity Fiber Optic cables.

These pictures don't look a ton different, but it represents four solid days of doing the not so fun things needed for the sound isolation.
Hi Aareses. Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to document your theater build in this thread. There is a tremendous amount of useful information here. Your theater looks awesome. I hope you are enjoying it. Just wanted to ask you a question regarding your usage of 9 CAT6a and 3 fiber optics cables. Do all of these cables support your home theater? Could you please elaborate on how each of them is being used?

Thanks.
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post #1347 of 1442 Old 01-17-2017, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Aareses. Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to document your theater build in this thread. There is a tremendous amount of useful information here. Your theater looks awesome. I hope you are enjoying it. Just wanted to ask you a question regarding your usage of 9 CAT6a and 3 fiber optics cables. Do all of these cables support your home theater? Could you please elaborate on how each of them is being used?

Thanks.
You're most welcome, Jerryyng. I am hopeful the info here will help others. Thank you for the feedback, we really love how it turned out. Yes, are really enjoying it! One of the channels on the sub amp went dead, but hopefully that will get fixed. Once it is, I can calibrate. Looking forward to that.

The cables do support the theater. Two of the fiber optic cables, which are both 60 feet long run from under the screen where our UHD Blu-ray player is located to the equipment rack in the mechanical room. The third, which is 80 feet long runs from the equipment rack to the projector. They are all Celerity and support 4K UHD from our Kaleidescape Strato and 4K UHD Blu-ray player just fine.

Of the 5 Ethernet cables under the screen, currently two are in use. One for the 4K UHD Blu-ray player and the other for the global cache device to remotely control that same player. All four are terminated in a four port wall jack hidden inside the cabinet under the screen. The fifth is just a raw wire for remote if needed later.

All four of the Ethernet cables in the ceiling over the projector are terminated in a four port wall (ceiling) jack as well. Only one is use for the projector, but we have three spares in case we ever want to send video over Ethernet.

I hope that answers your questions.

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1348 of 1442 Old 01-24-2017, 09:39 PM
 
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Wow, terrific thread, and fantastic looking results! I loved / agreed with most of the initial comments about getting the most bang for your buck even if you've got a big budget (compared to most people), because as it all adds up, cutting out wasteful / non-cost-effective parts of your build becomes even more important, not less.

When I buy a house I'm definitely going to have a dedicated theater room, but I prefer couches to get snuggy with the misses. I watch my projector from 6-12pm daily, and have for the past five years since I bought it, so comfort is very important. But man those chairs look awesome! And wonderful pics of the build process, I have mad respect for building a fake room inside a room for soundproofing and the effort involved. During college a guy did that for his sound recording studio and it was pretty neat watching it go up. I'm sure I'd be like you and hover around all the work. And awesome looking custom subs, wow. I'd personally never be able to go that big cause the misses can't stand the music / sound too loud anyway, so all I need is clarity at average SPLs. But I'd definitely love to experience that type of setup sometime.

Anyway great thread, carry on!
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post #1349 of 1442 Old 01-25-2017, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post
Wow, terrific thread, and fantastic looking results! I loved / agreed with most of the initial comments about getting the most bang for your buck even if you've got a big budget (compared to most people), because as it all adds up, cutting out wasteful / non-cost-effective parts of your build becomes even more important, not less.

When I buy a house I'm definitely going to have a dedicated theater room, but I prefer couches to get snuggy with the misses. I watch my projector from 6-12pm daily, and have for the past five years since I bought it, so comfort is very important. But man those chairs look awesome! And wonderful pics of the build process, I have mad respect for building a fake room inside a room for soundproofing and the effort involved. During college a guy did that for his sound recording studio and it was pretty neat watching it go up. I'm sure I'd be like you and hover around all the work. And awesome looking custom subs, wow. I'd personally never be able to go that big cause the misses can't stand the music / sound too loud anyway, so all I need is clarity at average SPLs. But I'd definitely love to experience that type of setup sometime.

Anyway great thread, carry on!
Thanks RLBURNSIDE. Your comments are appreciate. It has been a lot of fun.

Yesterday, I got my SpeakerPower subwoofer amp back, so all four subs are now working. I almost forgot how hard all four subs working together could hit. It's so impactful and brings a smile to my face every time I listen. Be sure to check out Deep Sea Sound and talk to David Gage (@dgage on AVS) about subs. While your misses won't let you have four, one of his 18" or 24" models is all you will need!
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Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #1350 of 1442 Old 01-29-2017, 05:54 PM
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Here are some pictures of the install process for our acoustic panels. The Listen Audio panels were cut perfectly (CNC Machine) and were very easy to install. The RPG panels were hand cut and had many slight size variations. Lining up two different types of panels with the two different types of install hardware was challenging, but our contractors did a stellar job with a difficult install.
I have a similar checkerboard pattern. Nyal didn't spec the actual panels for my plan, but offered a few options for each type. There are 4 different types, using a minimum of 3 different manufactures. I have the builder & local AV shop coming onsite Wed to establish a scope of work for each. The AV shop would prefer to redo my acoustic treatment plan with Kinetics, possibly because Kinetics has an install team they can send out. They're also Quest AI design partners, so that's another fully supported option, and I think Quest may have installers as well. But I am wanting to stick with Nyal's design with RPG, Vic, and Auralex.

Kind of a long intro. But my question is for panel install... who do you think would be better? A skilled carpenter (builder) or the speaker / structured wiring installers (AV shop) ? I think normally the AV shop would handle it, which the builder seems to prefer. But AV shop doesn't sell or have any experience installing the panels in Nyal's plan. Who did you use?

Your room looks good with acoustic treatments 'naked'. I was on the fence which way to go with mine. Either buy more expensive acoustic treatments with a nice finished look, or get the ugly stuff and hide it all behind fabric track / wall. Did you price it both ways to see which was cheaper?

 

 

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