Official Sony VW885ES / VW760ES Owner's Thread - Page 201 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6001 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 05:02 AM
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Thanks for your feedback. I contacted the dealer and will bring the unit back.
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post #6002 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by hasta666 View Post
In this second video you can actually see that the iris is working properly most of the time without noise. Unfortunately I was not able to capture repeated strange noise even though you can hear noise when the iris abruptly moves. I was recording Window’s Ribbons screen saver.

https://youtu.be/0DiS5Q9Lvtw
Just watched your two videos again on my main PC with proper speakers and you can easily hear and see what is going on.
It sounds like your iris has some loose or maladjusted parts inside it that cause it to stick and then the tension releases the pressure hence the clicking sounds.

In your second video you can see and hear it clicking and suddenly moving when it shouldn't be.

It definitely isn't right as the iris should be nigh on silent in operation.

I think this sort of thing mainly stems from the earlier models not being tested for proper iris operation at the factory and thus any slightly dodgy iris module could have made it out with no repercussions.

You need a new lens in your machine I am afraid.

Unless it somehow sorts itself out of course, which I am sceptical of.

Get it sorted and you will be far more impressed with the operation of the dual dimming I reckon.

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post #6003 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 05:09 AM
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Thanks for your feedback. I contacted the dealer and will bring the unit back.
Spoiler!


No problem.

Don't take any crap from Sony/your dealer either.

Once they have a lens in hand, it is a simple operation to swap them over. There should be no delays other than procuring the lens (doubtless from Japan) and testing after fitting.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #6004 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 05:15 AM
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Any others going to drop some eye candy just to celebrate enjoying these things?

Here is a few more to give inspiration....
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“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
Stephen Hawking.
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post #6005 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Just watched your two videos again on my main PC with proper speakers and you can easily hear and see what is going on.

It sounds like your iris has some loose or maladjusted parts inside it that cause it to stick and then the tension releases the pressure hence the clicking sounds.



In your second video you can see and hear it clicking and suddenly moving when it shouldn't be.



It definitely isn't right as the iris should be nigh on silent in operation.



I think this sort of thing mainly stems from the earlier models not being tested for proper iris operation at the factory and thus any slightly dodgy iris module could have made it out with no repercussions.



You need a new lens in your machine I am afraid.



Unless it somehow sorts itself out of course, which I am sceptical of.



Get it sorted and you will be far more impressed with the operation of the dual dimming I reckon.


That is a pretty good guess I think. That would also explain why I also started to see pumping, considering the lens might be opening or closing abruptly rather than smoothly.
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post #6006 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Any others going to drop some eye candy just to celebrate enjoying these things?

Here is a few more to give inspiration....
The pictures look amazing. Apart from the 760es what do you use in your set up?
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post #6007 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 05:38 AM
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The pictures look amazing. Apart from the 760es what do you use in your set up?
Hi.

Thanks!

I have a DMP-UB9000 and a Pioneer SC-LX901 AVR.

These had a weird handshaking problem, that I bought an HDFury Vertex device to hopefully fix. And it did!

No more handshake issues between player and amp.

It is a shame that an intermediary device is even needed just to make two bits of supposedly compatible equipment talk to each other.... But there we are, that is the state of affairs in 2020 with 4K, HDMI and HDCP.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
Stephen Hawking.
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post #6008 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hasta666 View Post
That is a pretty good guess I think. That would also explain why I also started to see pumping, considering the lens might be opening or closing abruptly rather than smoothly.
That would certainly cause undesirable brightness variation in the image.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
Stephen Hawking.
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post #6009 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 06:56 AM
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You are the first person I remember reading that has done an autocal. Could you please state about how long it took and whether you have a chance to revert (or once you've done it can you reverse it or do a before and after profile to see what it did)? Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Bumper View Post
I calibrated the 760 two days ago but got wierd values at D65 RGB Gain. I had to set it to -2, 0, -24 and the Bias was -1, -1, -1. It also felt like I missed lots of blue.
Yesterday I figured it might have something to do with the autocal I did some time ago. After I reset the autocal, I did a new calibration and this time I gained 7 nits of light and the RGB settings were 6, 0, -7. Much closer to the out of the box settings.

How many of you ran an autocal in the past or are doing that knowingly to make the image better?
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post #6010 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 07:25 AM
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You are the first person I remember reading that has done an autocal. Could you please state about how long it took and whether you have a chance to revert (or once you've done it can you reverse it or do a before and after profile to see what it did)? Thanks.
I did try it once when I first had my 760, just to see what it would do, but after the lens moved, it was taking so long (many minutes) to seemingly do anything. So I cancelled it.

Never tried it since, or found the need to.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #6011 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 08:13 AM
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What are you hoping to achieve with autocal? As far as I know autocal is a quite rough adjustment to restore.
My installer/calibrator advised me not to do it, better to do a touch-up calibration. Witch by the way hes done twice already.
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post #6012 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 08:25 AM
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What are you hoping to achieve with autocal? As far as I know autocal is a quite rough adjustment to restore.
My installer/calibrator advised me not to do it, better to do a touch-up calibration. Witch by the way hes done twice already.
Yes, agreed.

My understanding is that it is only for returning the colours back to roughly what was set out of the factory, and, that may or may not necessarily be accurate in each individual unit anyway.
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post #6013 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 09:15 AM
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I went off and read the manual and answered most of my questions. Yes, it is a course calibration; the manual states that. Yes, you can do a pre-check. Yes, you can do a complete restore to the initial factory settings. It does not state how long it takes but it says it should be done after 30 minutes or so.

These units do drift. I was just looking to see how good of a job it does. For people that don't do a proper calibration or use an outboard processor it may benefit them after so many hours.

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What are you hoping to achieve with autocal? As far as I know autocal is a quite rough adjustment to restore.
My installer/calibrator advised me not to do it, better to do a touch-up calibration. Witch by the way hes done twice already.
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post #6014 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 11:10 AM
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I went off and read the manual and answered most of my questions. Yes, it is a course calibration; the manual states that. Yes, you can do a pre-check. Yes, you can do a complete restore to the initial factory settings. It does not state how long it takes but it says it should be done after 30 minutes or so.

These units do drift. I was just looking to see how good of a job it does. For people that don't do a proper calibration or use an outboard processor it may benefit them after so many hours.



It should be done after 30 minutes means that you should only proceed with the autocal once the unit warmed up for atleast 30 minutes. The autocal itself zooms the picture small and then highlights my ceiling a some of my screen. It stays white for a few minutes. Long enough to start worrying that the procedure hangs. However if you sit it out, while will turn into red and the rest of the primary colors and thereafter it is finished. You than see the delta error and can test the results. The projector will swap between before and after calibration.I simply forgot to reset it and it messed up my calibration significantly. Currently I output 57 nits and after the autocal only 49 nits were left. So just forget about it being there but if you want to play with it there is no harm. It measures inside it's own lightpath and the room should remain lit the same way during the complete procedure.
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post #6015 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 02:14 PM
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Any others going to drop some eye candy just to celebrate enjoying these things?

Here is a few more to give inspiration....
What is that movie?

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I think it is more down to the fact that the lens is recessed further inside the chassis than on the 550/570 etc.

When I swapped my 550 for the 760, it was super straightforward, same mount, same spot.

Doing it the way you suggest would yield more brightness but at the expense of on-off contrast, although ANSI would be improved.

If you are getting a great picture as you are now with a 550, then the 760 will, I think, not disappoint in the exact same spot.
Hmm, would you recommend moving it closer? Mainly it would've nice to get slightly brighter with 3d on low. That said low on this should I guess be 100 lumen higher than the 550.
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post #6016 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 03:24 PM
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What is that movie?


Hmm, would you recommend moving it closer? Mainly it would've nice to get slightly brighter with 3d on low. That said low on this should I guess be 100 lumen higher than the 550.
Two movies. First few were Aquaman and the last picture was The Martian.

I would only recommend moving it closer if you hanker after more brightness, but, it will ultimately come at the expense of contrast.

The extra 200 lumens seems more in actual use, It is hard to describe. The stability will enamour you most.

If you like your picture now, then try it where it is, and if you want more, move it closer.
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post #6017 of 6034 Old 01-10-2020, 03:55 PM
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Two movies. First few were Aquaman and the last picture was The Martian.

I would only recommend moving it closer if you hanker after more brightness, but, it will ultimately come at the expense of contrast.

The extra 200 lumens seems more in actual use, It is hard to describe. The stability will enamour you most.

If you like your picture now, then try it where it is, and if you want more, move it closer.
Ah right, I was trying to pick what it was!

Cheers, sage advise. I guess also you are looking at the extra lumens consistently, not with a new bulb vs several hundred hours. So if I was getting 100 extra on low than when my bulb was new

On the distance calculation, I think that one on Projector Central was just wrong. I found the official Sony one and it gave the same figures.
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post #6018 of 6034 Old 01-11-2020, 08:24 AM
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Ah right, I was trying to pick what it was!

Cheers, sage advise. I guess also you are looking at the extra lumens consistently, not with a new bulb vs several hundred hours. So if I was getting 100 extra on low than when my bulb was new

On the distance calculation, I think that one on Projector Central was just wrong. I found the official Sony one and it gave the same figures.
The Sony calculator is the one I use.

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post #6019 of 6034 Old 01-11-2020, 09:36 PM
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I have really been loving my 885ES for the past year and a half. But I went to turn it on yesterday day and when I hit power the green light comes on for a short bit and then both the power and warning turn red and are solid for about 4 sec. then it shuts off. Anyone else see this?


Thanks,
Scott
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post #6020 of 6034 Old 01-12-2020, 06:06 AM
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I have really been loving my 885ES for the past year and a half. But I went to turn it on yesterday day and when I hit power the green light comes on for a short bit and then both the power and warning turn red and are solid for about 4 sec. then it shuts off. Anyone else see this?


Thanks,
Scott
I haven't seen that scenario myself, but I would disconnect it from the mains for 5 minutes and then plug it back in, let it reinitialise and then attempt to power back on.

If that doesn't help, it looks like it may be a warranty job.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #6021 of 6034 Old 01-13-2020, 04:11 AM
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Hi.

Thanks!

I have a DMP-UB9000 and a Pioneer SC-LX901 AVR.

These had a weird handshaking problem, that I bought an HDFury Vertex device to hopefully fix. And it did!

No more handshake issues between player and amp.

It is a shame that an intermediary device is even needed just to make two bits of supposedly compatible equipment talk to each other.... But there we are, that is the state of affairs in 2020 with 4K, HDMI and HDCP.

In terms of handshake, do you still get delays with a black screen whilst the 760es works out what it is receiving? I have a CYP EL-41HP-4K22 switcher because of some issue with Arcam amps and two outputs (TV/Projector) controlled by Ethernet (can't quite remember why they said it was necessary).
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post #6022 of 6034 Old 01-13-2020, 04:35 AM
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In terms of handshake, do you still get delays with a black screen whilst the 760es works out what it is receiving? I have a CYP EL-41HP-4K22 switcher because of some issue with Arcam amps and two outputs (TV/Projector) controlled by Ethernet (can't quite remember why they said it was necessary).
Yes, I still get that slight delay with a blank screen whilst everything syncs up, but that is normal as HDCP2.2 is the part that causes that issue. I don't think it is the PJ working out what it is receiving because as a display device that has transmitted its EDID, all the other pieces of kit will send the highest possible quality signal based on that EDID (all things being equal i.e. set to auto) and it will simply display what it gets. The content protection causes the delays from what I can make out.

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post #6023 of 6034 Old 01-15-2020, 05:42 AM
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@Senna any update on the near black issue?

I too have raised a ticket with Sony since I saw it in Terminator Salvation.

What Blu ray player are you using, if any?

Cheers.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
Stephen Hawking.
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post #6024 of 6034 Old 01-16-2020, 07:24 AM
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@Senna any update on the near black issue?

I too have raised a ticket with Sony since I saw it in Terminator Salvation.

What Blu ray player are you using, if any?

Cheers.
/me quickly emails the Sony repair center to ask then not to upgrade his trusty 8.004 when the replace the broken fan

Be interested to know how it pans out, i see those near black issues all the time on my LG OLED C8, though i only watch steaming services on it and i've always put it down to compression artifacts / noise. If you guys are seeing them on UHD blu-rays though its unlikely to be the same thing. i haven't seen any such issue with 8.004 on the 760.

On a (un)related note, i have a Panasonic UB9000 as i know many others here do, i found i was getting some image artifacts with the 760, looked like flicker in some busy and brighter scenes. I nudged up the noise filter on the UB9000 to fix it, i know image processing like that can be a sin, but it fixed problems i had.
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post #6025 of 6034 Old 01-16-2020, 08:14 AM
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/me quickly emails the Sony repair center to ask then not to upgrade his trusty 8.004 when the replace the broken fan

Be interested to know how it pans out, i see those near black issues all the time on my LG OLED C8, though i only watch steaming services on it and i've always put it down to compression artifacts / noise. If you guys are seeing them on UHD blu-rays though its unlikely to be the same thing. i haven't seen any such issue with 8.004 on the 760.

On a (un)related note, i have a Panasonic UB9000 as i know many others here do, i found i was getting some image artifacts with the 760, looked like flicker in some busy and brighter scenes. I nudged up the noise filter on the UB9000 to fix it, i know image processing like that can be a sin, but it fixed problems i had.
I had similar once and just lowered the Reality Creation a tad. Interesting you used the player to alleviate it instead. I presume you nudged the noise filter higher?

Also, I have been reading recently about how the HDR optimiser can introduce banding on some content, and I have now turned it off and with the new PJ curves it appears improved quite a lot and there is more highlight detail as well.

The banding on Termy Salvation is still there in that scene however. (Pics attached. First one is HDR, the second SDR) Switching HDR off on the PJ cures it and the shading is as one would expect.

You have to lower the brightness to something like 20 to cure it in HDR, but it literally crushes the entire scene and makes it very dark generally.

I still want a Source Direct on the UB9000 though.
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post #6026 of 6034 Old 01-16-2020, 08:18 AM
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/me quickly emails the Sony repair center to ask then not to upgrade his trusty 8.004 when the replace the broken fan
On that note, if you get it back and they have left your 8.004 on there and you have Termy Salv UHD disc, can you test it in your machine when you get it back and see if you get the same?

It is the scene near the beginning when he gets in the chopper and gets hit and crashes. Just back a bit from the start of the third chapter, or near the end of the second, I think.

Cheese.

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post #6027 of 6034 Old 01-16-2020, 09:13 AM
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On that note, if you get it back and they have left your 8.004 on there and you have Termy Salv UHD disc, can you test it in your machine when you get it back and see if you get the same?

It is the scene near the beginning when he gets in the chopper and gets hit and crashes. Just back a bit from the start of the third chapter, or near the end of the second, I think.

Cheese.
Yeah sure, they are waiting for parts to come in however and its looking like i might be away a few weeks
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post #6028 of 6034 Old 01-16-2020, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
On that note, if you get it back and they have left your 8.004 on there and you have Termy Salv UHD disc, can you test it in your machine when you get it back and see if you get the same?

It is the scene near the beginning when he gets in the chopper and gets hit and crashes. Just back a bit from the start of the third chapter, or near the end of the second, I think.

Cheese.
Yeah sure, they are waiting for parts to come in however and its looking like i might be away a few weeks
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post #6029 of 6034 Old 01-16-2020, 12:33 PM
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@Senna any update on the near black issue?

I too have raised a ticket with Sony since I saw it in Terminator Salvation.

What Blu ray player are you using, if any?

Cheers.

Update on the near black issue:
Three weeks ago I raised a ticket and answered all questions from the sony technician. I sent them all the pictures and explained the problem. After three weeks sony told me I must send in my vw760 to examine the issue. Another member in the german "hifi-forum" had the same problems. After his iris broke he send the projektor to sony. He told them that he also has the near black issue. After two weeks he got his vw760 back. Iris was fixed and the near black issue is gone.
Today I had an appointment with my dealer. We tested everything with a new vw870. Same problem with the near black. It looks terrible in some scenes. Same scene with the JVC NX9 looks gorgeous -
just like before the sony update. My dealer now wants to find out what has been repaired on the sony from the german forum user.


I use the Panasonic UB9004, Panasonic UB900 and the X Box One X. My dealer has used an Oppo. The Player is not the scource of the issue.
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post #6030 of 6034 Old 01-16-2020, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Senna View Post
Update on the near black issue:
Three weeks ago I raised a ticket and answered all questions from the sony technician. I sent them all the pictures and explained the problem. After three weeks sony told me I must send in my vw760 to examine the issue. Another member in the german "hifi-forum" had the same problems. After his iris broke he send the projektor to sony. He told them that he also has the near black issue. After two weeks he got his vw760 back. Iris was fixed and the near black issue is gone.
Today I had an appointment with my dealer. We tested everything with a new vw870. Same problem with the near black. It looks terrible in some scenes. Same scene with the JVC NX9 looks gorgeous -
just like before the sony update. My dealer now wants to find out what has been repaired on the sony from the german forum user.


I use the Panasonic UB9004, Panasonic UB900 and the X Box One X. My dealer has used an Oppo. The Player is not the scource of the issue.
Very interesting.
can you find out what firmware is now on the 760 of the German forum member? Have they updated it with a newer version?
if it is something hardware related then that is very disappointing.
However, if it has indeed been fixed then that is promising. I just hope it is a firmware fix as it wasn't present in a previous firmware.
As for it happening on an 870, that is also disappointing. I wonder if any 5000 owners have seen this since the update on theirs?
I am hopeful a fix will be forthcoming soon.
Cheers.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
Stephen Hawking.
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