Official Sony VPL-VW995ES/870ES 4K Laser Owner’s Discussion - Page 15 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #421 of 1111 Old 03-05-2019, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post
Laser 10% for SDR @ 16FL ? Without a doubt you have way more projector than you need , obviously, the screen is small or have a combination small screen with high gain . I get 60FL off my screen on high for HDR ,for SDR I still run 65-80% range depending on the movie. In my case , removing the anamorphic lens from the light path drops the brightness by 35% , the projector remains at a higher setting where the contrast is optimal. The VW885 and VW995 have optimal contrast in the higher laser settings, you'll want this for HDR and also for SDR . Without the IRIS options are to add a ND filter , like my setup you can use a anamorphic lens to your advantage, some have dual screens.

Sony designed this projector for optimally for HDR, optimal performance in all areas is at the highest brightness setting This is a very smart design, after all isn't the best performance and largest screen possible the ultimate goal, with the VW885/VW995 this happens at the same point . Other projectors in class may have another 20% calibrated brightness but not the best performance, in fact it's the reverse in that the brightest image has the weakest performance. The IRIS in the VW995 does not help becasue it is not manually adjustable, a ND filter should work just as efficiently provided it is a quality piece.
I keep my laser at 100 percent all the time.. !! Lumens is addicting..

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Originally Posted by jbrinegar View Post
Ive got a pretty good sized screen (135" neve). Its just alot brighter because Ive done the Arrow service menu tweaks. I love the extra brightness for HDR.
I thought that tweak only do the 1 pixel alignment thing.. how does it make it brighter? Also, after you tweak it, do you have to re-calibrate the colors?

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Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post
60FL( 200hits) with tone mapping from the Lumagen Pro is indeed amazing . Lumagen have now in fact updated their firmware, it adds dynamic tone mapping on a per scene basis, even better, or at least I think so. I actually sold my
VW885, shipping this today and did not have a chance to update the lumagen , see what dynamic tone mapping does for the image. IMHO, tone mapping is essential for spectacular HDR, it can work ok at the entry level brightnness

level suggested for HDR (29FL) but really comes to life above 50FL. My next projector will have minimum50FL available, probably more, I have months to figure it out before my new theater is finished.
Don't handicap yourself at 60fL..

go for 100 and beyond if you can..

Just for laughs sake, i actually keep zooming with my projector.. the smaller the screen, ie, the brighter, the better the image became... it didn't matter how much brighter it gets, there's always room to improve on the picture quality...

The best picture quality i ever saw was on the Onyx screen (samsung LED) at a local cinema... that thing is a light canon (prob above 500 nits, maybe even 1000 nits), but the picture is spectacular...
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post #422 of 1111 Old 03-05-2019, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
I keep my laser at 100 percent all the time.. !! Lumens is addicting..



I thought that tweak only do the 1 pixel alignment thing.. how does it make it brighter? Also, after you tweak it, do you have to re-calibrate the colors?



Don't handicap yourself at 60fL..

go for 100 and beyond if you can..

Just for laughs sake, i actually keep zooming with my projector.. the smaller the screen, ie, the brighter, the better the image became... it didn't matter how much brighter it gets, there's always room to improve on the picture quality...

The best picture quality i ever saw was on the Onyx screen (samsung LED) at a local cinema... that thing is a light canon (prob above 500 nits, maybe even 1000 nits), but the picture is spectacular...

I cannot disagree, lumens is the weakness for nearly every consumer projector if HDR is on the radar . When I was at the JVC Canada showroom the rep told me they had Robert Silva help with their setup . Apparently Mr. Silva ( the THX standards guru) told him that his personal theater is set up at 400 nits( 117FL). Didn't say anthing about the details from projector/s to screen just the value he uses for HDR . I think this guy put contrast as number one at that point, probably back when 3000:1 was high, who knows. Obvioulsy brightness is very important now, that priority list is likely due an update .
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post #423 of 1111 Old 03-05-2019, 12:52 PM
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[QUOTE

I thought that tweak only do the 1 pixel alignment thing.. how does it make it brighter? Also, after you tweak it, do you have to re-calibrate the colors?

[/QUOTE]


Yes, if you do all three of the service menu tweaks youll definitely need to recalibrate the grayscale bc it will be way off. One of the changes will really alter your white balance. But youll get more brightness and much better 1:1 pixel mapping (test patterns look much better). Arrow had detailed instructions somewehere in the 885 thread. But be careful you dont mess anything else up

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post #424 of 1111 Old 03-05-2019, 08:37 PM
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Yes, if you do all three of the service menu tweaks youll definitely need to recalibrate the grayscale bc it will be way off. One of the changes will really alter your white balance. But youll get more brightness and much better 1:1 pixel mapping (test patterns look much better). Arrow had detailed instructions somewehere in the 885 thread. But be careful you dont mess anything else up
I don't have the equipment to calibrate so i better not mess with the fix...
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post #425 of 1111 Old 03-06-2019, 10:20 AM
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Hi mates: I own a X 950 JVC projector (RS 600), but before a had a Sony VPL VW 600, both roof- installed. I'm not so interested in HDR, though I like vibrant colors and pretty good black level. I have a dual screen motorised system: one 16:9, 120", and the other 2:40, 130". My sofa is about 4,00 meters from the screens and the projector is fixed at 4,65m. I'd like to know if using the 885 at mid-level laser I would get a bright enough image, considering that my screens are gray, 0.9, and my projection room is all blacked out? What about the black level? Since I live in Brazil, I don't have how to check these projectors performance. Can anybody give me a hand on this? I thank you in advance.
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post #426 of 1111 Old 03-06-2019, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrinegar View Post
Yes, if you do all three of the service menu tweaks youll definitely need to recalibrate the grayscale bc it will be way off. One of the changes will really alter your white balance. But youll get more brightness and much better 1:1 pixel mapping (test patterns look much better). Arrow had detailed instructions somewehere in the 885 thread. But be careful you dont mess anything else up
BTW: how do you calibrate the white levels back? Is there a cheap way for me to do this? What meter do i need? or, is it possible i just upload your recalibrated numbers?

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post #427 of 1111 Old 03-06-2019, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Walter Santos Filho View Post
Hi mates: I own a X 950 JVC projector (RS 600), but before a had a Sony VPL VW 600, both roof- installed. I'm not so interested in HDR, though I like vibrant colors and pretty good black level. I have a dual screen motorised system: one 16:9, 120", and the other 2:40, 130". My sofa is about 4,00 meters from the screens and the projector is fixed at 4,65m. I'd like to know if using the 885 at mid-level laser I would get a bright enough image, considering that my screens are gray, 0.9, and my projection room is all blacked out? What about the black level? Since I live in Brazil, I don't have how to check these projectors performance. Can anybody give me a hand on this? I thank you in advance.
With SDR you'll be Ok.. with HDR, you're really stretching the brightness with a 0.9 gain screen. I use all 100 percent of the laser with my 138 inch screen and projector is placed at max zoom already.

But if you are happy with the brightness of the sony vw 600 then the 885 would be significantly brighter than that... and the brightness won't go down like the bulb ones do.. you can use it for a long, long time before seeing any significant decrease in brightness...

For me I prefer the blacks of the 885 over the JVC RS 600 (that appears to have more black crush).... and the blacks of the 885 would be even more significantly increased from the Sony 600 which still has the older panels.
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post #428 of 1111 Old 03-06-2019, 01:28 PM
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BTW: how do you calibrate the white levels back? Is there a cheap way for me to do this? What meter do i need? or, is it possible i just upload your recalibrated numbers?
I use an i1display pro and chromapure. Individual calibrations would be the best, since individual calibrations will differ from unit to unit.

I currently use 3 different calibrated settings: Cinema 1 for SDR rec 709, Cinema 2 for 4k HDR 2020 with a custom curve (for apple tv and xbox/ps4), and Refer for SDR 2020 from my panny ub820.

I was never that happy with the stock HDR curve, so IMO using a panny for sdr 2020 or a custom curve looks better. Id eventually like to add a lumagen for the dynamic tone mapping function, just got to save up the $.

I really like the fade to black too

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post #429 of 1111 Old 03-07-2019, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrinegar View Post
I use an i1display pro and chromapure. Individual calibrations would be the best, since individual calibrations will differ from unit to unit.

I currently use 3 different calibrated settings: Cinema 1 for SDR rec 709, Cinema 2 for 4k HDR 2020 with a custom curve (for apple tv and xbox/ps4), and Refer for SDR 2020 from my panny ub820.

I was never that happy with the stock HDR curve, so IMO using a panny for sdr 2020 or a custom curve looks better. Id eventually like to add a lumagen for the dynamic tone mapping function, just got to save up the $.

I really like the fade to black too
How much does your equipment cost?

As for using different settings such as Cinema 1, Cinema 2, etc, is it possible to first copy the whole settings of say Cinema 1 to Cinema 2 before you start adjusting? I actually like what Cinema 1 looked like to begin with before i even change anything..

As for the panny, does it read files from a hard disk or just bluray discs? Can i use a media player, output it to the panny, use it's curve there then output to the projector?

Lumagen would be out of my budget..

And yes, i believe custom curve would be way better.. in fact, even the N5 I saw that was well calibrated, the dealer there used their own custom curve.. they showed the the difference between the JVC's in built HDR tone mapping vs their custom curve and the difference is quite significant...
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post #430 of 1111 Old 03-07-2019, 01:59 AM
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Coolgeek, firstly thank you for your kind answer. You said that if I liked the VPL VW 600 image I would like better the 885. I think you meant the latter is brighter also. What about the comparison with my present X 950 (RS 600) jvc projector in brightness? It has 1900 lumens.
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post #431 of 1111 Old 03-07-2019, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Walter Santos Filho View Post
Coolgeek, firstly thank you for your kind answer. You said that if I liked the VPL VW 600 image I would like better the 885. I think you meant the latter is brighter also. What about the comparison with my present X 950 (RS 600) jvc projector in brightness? It has 1900 lumens.
The Sony 885 will give you fight out of the box 2000-2100 lumens... and this does not dim over long periods of time vs the lamp.. within a couple hundred hours your JVC would already lost a lot of light and then goes downwards from there on... so, you're likely going to be like 30 percent brighter on the 760 most of the time...

And something about the laser light vs lamp.. even if it's the exact same ratings, i think the laser will give you a punchier look, better colors, more vibrant..

Roxiedog went from a 695ES to the 885ES and he noticed a high jump in brightness.
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post #432 of 1111 Old 03-08-2019, 10:38 AM
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The Sony 885 will give you fight out of the box 2000-2100 lumens... and this does not dim over long periods of time vs the lamp.. within a couple hundred hours your JVC would already lost a lot of light and then goes downwards from there on... so, you're likely going to be like 30 percent brighter on the 760 most of the time...

And something about the laser light vs lamp.. even if it's the exact same ratings, the laser will yield a more punchier image.

Roxiedog went from a 695ES to the 885ES and he noticed a high jump in brightness.

I think what I noticed more was the dynamic pop colors possessed, a laser just adds this increased level of image pop even when lumens are similar . I also had the RS600 at the same time as the VW675 they were near identical on screen for brightness , both had 400 hours on the lamp . I'm guessing both had lost 15-20% brightness by this point, by 1000 hours this would be down to 25% range.



The VW885 will average about 200 lumens more that either of these as brand new and calibrated, the VW995 should add another 120 lumens more according to Ekki . Both these Sony lasers will retain brightness for many years, a few already have surpassed 2500 hours with no measureable losses. Based on 600 hours a year, any laser projector should make 17 years. 17 years is just silly and no projector is going to be around that long anyway, 10 years is pushing it for many reasons.
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post #433 of 1111 Old 03-09-2019, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post
I think what I noticed more was the dynamic pop colors possessed, a laser just adds this increased level of image pop even when lumens are similar . I also had the RS600 at the same time as the VW675 they were near identical on screen for brightness , both had 400 hours on the lamp . I'm guessing both had lost 15-20% brightness by this point, by 1000 hours this would be down to 25% range.



The VW885 will average about 200 lumens more that either of these as brand new and calibrated, the VW995 should add another 120 lumens more according to Ekki . Both these Sony lasers will retain brightness for many years, a few already have surpassed 2500 hours with no measureable losses. Based on 600 hours a year, any laser projector should make 17 years. 17 years is just silly and no projector is going to be around that long anyway, 10 years is pushing it for many reasons.
Glad to see you back Roxiedog... your posts are always very informative and level headed...

Interestingly i find my opinion of the 760 mirrors yours... that's why i know your subjective review of that unit is more reliable...
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post #434 of 1111 Old 03-09-2019, 12:35 PM
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I have had the 995 for a few weeks now and here are my impressions. The projector is fed by a Lumagen Radiance Pro and the
screen is a 2.35 AR Stewart (127"x54") with Studiotek 100 material. I'm using the fixed zoom method for a constant image height
setup. Thanks to the Lumagen's 2.35 mode and Auto Aspect detection, CIH is basically hassle free.

The projector (or more accurately my whole setup) was calibrated by Craig Rounds who did an outstanding job. He generated
two 3D LUTs for HDR and SDR at their respective laser levels (100 and 35). We applied the same changes that Arrow-AV suggests
in the service menu (Numbers 2 and 21) but not to number 15. The projector has a color uniformity issue that switching between
the two values on 15 did not fix. It was perhaps slightly better at the '0' setting but not enough to justify the dramatic shift to the
white point, so we left it at '1'. There is basically a slight color shift towards the edges of the picture. It is disappointing that such
a high quality projector exhibits non-uniformity when using test patterns but in actual viewing I could not detect it. Maybe if I look
really carefully at a widescreen B&W movie I might be be able to detect it but so far I haven't.

I dislike overprocessed and "enhanced" images, so I have all those features turned off. Specifically "Reality Creation", "Contrast
Enhancer", "Motion Flow" and "Smooth Gradation" are all OFF and "Input Lag Reduction" is ON. With these settings and Craig's
White Balance calibration for the projector and 3D LUTs loaded on the Lumagen the picture the 995 produces is amazing. At least
the SDR picture is, for HDR the situation is more complicated.

For SDR, I have the laser level set at 35 for a reading of 16FL at the screen, which just looks great. There is not much to add here, I don't
think SDR can really look any better. Which is perfect for me because the vast majority of the content I watch is SDR. I have to say I'm not
a big fan of the HDR concept, I would have preferred 4k with extended colorspace. I don't believe the occasional superbright "highlight"
justifies having an overall dimmer image unless you have an insanely bright display.

Now to HDR. With the laser set to 100, I get 25FL at the screen. I expected that to look really bad but thanks to the Lumagen's Dynamic
Tone Mapping (I have it set at 8) I get a very pleasing picture. Perhaps I'm more comfortable with a dim picture than most
people here, who seem to like a lot of light, but for the few movies I have tested so far, I prefer the better colors and higher resolution
of the 4k version than the BD version. Dark and medium brightness scenes look really great. Bright scenes lack some punch but they still
look fine. Dynamic Tone Mapping really helps and I expect it to get improved.

The only projector setting I am not sure what value to use, is "Dynamic Control" for the laser+iris. For SDR I have it at Full and that's fine
because there is plenty of light. But for HDR it's a tough choice, from Off to Full it drops 2FL for a medium brightness image. That's
quite significant when you don't have enough light. On the other hand when Off, dark scenes look a bit washed out. I'm still experimenting,
this is the kind of setting you have to watch for an extended time and with a lot of different material to reach any conclusions, but so far I'm
leaning towards setting it to Full.

Overall, a great projector. Even for HDR with a fairly large screen like mine (10.5 feet wide) you get an excellent picture IF you use a
good tone mapping like Lumagen's. And of course those who go the route of an anamorphic lens will have quite a bit more light
available.
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post #435 of 1111 Old 03-10-2019, 03:54 AM
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I have had the 995 for a few weeks now and here are my impressions.
Spoiler!
A nice, balanced and objective write-up, thanks for that. Lumagens dynamic tone mapping really is excellent isn’t it!

It seems to me, that as you’re struggling for light in HDR, and running CIH, you’re a prime candidate for a Paladin DCR A-lens. That would net you in the region of a 38% increase in peak brightness, taking you to around 34FtL.

You could also have the Lumagen upscale to the full panel width; 4096 x 2160, which should net you around a 6% increase.
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post #436 of 1111 Old 03-10-2019, 05:08 AM
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I have had the 995 for a few weeks now and here are my impressions. The projector is fed by a Lumagen Radiance Pro and the
screen is a 2.35 AR Stewart (127"x54") with Studiotek 100 material. I'm using the fixed zoom method for a constant image height
setup. Thanks to the Lumagen's 2.35 mode and Auto Aspect detection, CIH is basically hassle free.

The projector (or more accurately my whole setup) was calibrated by Craig Rounds who did an outstanding job. He generated
two 3D LUTs for HDR and SDR at their respective laser levels (100 and 35). We applied the same changes that Arrow-AV suggests
in the service menu (Numbers 2 and 21) but not to number 15. The projector has a color uniformity issue that switching between
the two values on 15 did not fix. It was perhaps slightly better at the '0' setting but not enough to justify the dramatic shift to the
white point, so we left it at '1'. There is basically a slight color shift towards the edges of the picture. It is disappointing that such
a high quality projector exhibits non-uniformity when using test patterns but in actual viewing I could not detect it. Maybe if I look
really carefully at a widescreen B&W movie I might be be able to detect it but so far I haven't.

I dislike overprocessed and "enhanced" images, so I have all those features turned off. Specifically "Reality Creation", "Contrast
Enhancer", "Motion Flow" and "Smooth Gradation" are all OFF and "Input Lag Reduction" is ON. With these settings and Craig's
White Balance calibration for the projector and 3D LUTs loaded on the Lumagen the picture the 995 produces is amazing. At least
the SDR picture is, for HDR the situation is more complicated.

For SDR, I have the laser level set at 35 for a reading of 16FL at the screen, which just looks great. There is not much to add here, I don't
think SDR can really look any better. Which is perfect for me because the vast majority of the content I watch is SDR. I have to say I'm not
a big fan of the HDR concept, I would have preferred 4k with extended colorspace. I don't believe the occasional superbright "highlight"
justifies having an overall dimmer image unless you have an insanely bright display.

Now to HDR. With the laser set to 100, I get 25FL at the screen. I expected that to look really bad but thanks to the Lumagen's Dynamic
Tone Mapping (I have it set at 8) I get a very pleasing picture. Perhaps I'm more comfortable with a dim picture than most
people here, who seem to like a lot of light, but for the few movies I have tested so far, I prefer the better colors and higher resolution
of the 4k version than the BD version. Dark and medium brightness scenes look really great. Bright scenes lack some punch but they still
look fine. Dynamic Tone Mapping really helps and I expect it to get improved.

The only projector setting I am not sure what value to use, is "Dynamic Control" for the laser+iris. For SDR I have it at Full and that's fine
because there is plenty of light. But for HDR it's a tough choice, from Off to Full it drops 2FL for a medium brightness image. That's
quite significant when you don't have enough light. On the other hand when Off, dark scenes look a bit washed out. I'm still experimenting,
this is the kind of setting you have to watch for an extended time and with a lot of different material to reach any conclusions, but so far I'm
leaning towards setting it to Full.

Overall, a great projector. Even for HDR with a fairly large screen like mine (10.5 feet wide) you get an excellent picture IF you use a
good tone mapping like Lumagen's. And of course those who go the route of an anamorphic lens will have quite a bit more light
available.
Nice review...
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post #437 of 1111 Old 03-10-2019, 07:53 AM
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A nice, balanced and objective write-up, thanks for that. Lumagens dynamic tone mapping really is excellent isn’t it!

It seems to me, that as you’re struggling for light in HDR, and running CIH, you’re a prime candidate for a Paladin DCR A-lens. That would net you in the region of a 38% increase in peak brightness, taking you to around 34FtL.

You could also have the Lumagen upscale to the full panel width; 4096 x 2160, which should net you around a 6% increase.
Have to agree, this is a perfect candidate for a DCR lens, adding some gain would also not hurt . The Stewart ST130 or SI Solar 4K white at 1.3 will add 30%, combined with the DCR A-lens and dynamic tone mapping , HDR will really come to life .

I have to add here people, don't be afraid to add significant gain, there are many screens that may not have the extreme sharpness accuracy of the ST100, but are so close that at a seated difference it's near impossible to tell . These screens however do add gain , some have characteristics better suited home theater environments less than ideal . A ST100 for example is a terrible choice in anything except a perfect bat cave with black walls , will have terrible contrast with virtually any light, even a single LED component light will wash out the image , that has to be factored in .
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post #438 of 1111 Old 03-10-2019, 10:40 AM
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A nice, balanced and objective write-up, thanks for that. Lumagens dynamic tone mapping really is excellent isn’t it!

It seems to me, that as you’re struggling for light in HDR, and running CIH, you’re a prime candidate for a Paladin DCR A-lens. That would net you in the region of a 38% increase in peak brightness, taking you to around 34FtL.

You could also have the Lumagen upscale to the full panel width; 4096 x 2160, which should net you around a 6% increase.

Maybe I should ask this in the Paladin DCR thread, but would anyone here, that has had experience using the DCR lens, recommend it for users who will be doing 40-50% SDR viewing? I guess what I am asking is if I have a 2.35 130"screen, but watch SDR tv viewing (tv shows, sports) about half the time, would it still be advisable to use a DCR lens? I would definitely like the additional brightness, but worry about the barrel edges when the picture goes back to 16X9 viewing since I can't mask that image like I can a movie in 2.35/2.41.
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post #439 of 1111 Old 03-10-2019, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Wookii View Post
A nice, balanced and objective write-up, thanks for that. Lumagens dynamic tone mapping really is excellent isn’t it!

It seems to me, that as you’re struggling for light in HDR, and running CIH, you’re a prime candidate for a Paladin DCR A-lens. That would net you in the region of a 38% increase in peak brightness, taking you to around 34FtL.

You could also have the Lumagen upscale to the full panel width; 4096 x 2160, which should net you around a 6% increase.
I considered that lens (and still haven't definitely ruled it out) but I would then get too much light for SDR even at 0 laser. Also the extra processing required and geometry issues add to the drawbacks. I really like how sharp the picture looks, even the focus pattern looks the same all the way to the edges. For the same reason I'm not scaling to the full panel width. With my current setup and 4k sources there is no scaling at all (actually Lumagen's Auto Aspect mode scales 2.4 input to 2.35 but they will allow you to turn that off with a future firmware update).
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post #440 of 1111 Old 03-13-2019, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Green Book is another amazing demo piece. Really good movie as well. The 995 really shined with this presentation.

Also another nice write up:


https://translate.google.com/transla...vpl-vw870es%2F

I apologize if someone already posted the link.

4K HDR10- ignore the “rules” and trust your eyes!
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post #441 of 1111 Old 03-18-2019, 09:48 AM
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Another new 995/870ES owner here!
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post #442 of 1111 Old 03-18-2019, 09:55 AM
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NICE! Welcome to the club!!!
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post #443 of 1111 Old 03-18-2019, 12:16 PM
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NICE! Welcome to the club!!!

Thanks!

I was able to see the NX-9, VPLW995ES/870ES and 885ES/760ES in the same room. None of them were properly calibrated, so I'm on thin ice when comparing the three, of course.

Anyway, these are my thoughts:

1-I liked the NX-9 a lot. Didn't buy it, mainly because I didn't want to invest so much money in a lamp based PJ anymore. 8K eshift was not a real advantage, as expected. Oh, and the remote of the Sony's (along with the menu structure) is a lot better than the JVC's remote. Nevertheless, the pic quality of the NX-9 is top notch.

2-I also liked the 885ES/760ES a lot. It's still a great PJ, and if I owned one, I wouldn't trade if for the 995ES/870ES. The 995ES/870ES is better, but not so much better. I wonder how many people are able to to spot the 995ES in a blind test (haha, sort of) when the two are calibrated an being shown in the same room on the same screen.

3-All in all, I like the 995ES best (+ the knowledge that it won't dim as a lamp based PJ), so that's what I bought!

Video: Panasonic UB9000 - Sony VPL-VW995ES/870ES - Paladin DCR - (Seymour) Screen Excellence 2.40:1 TAM2L
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post #444 of 1111 Old 03-19-2019, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Holy Grail View Post
Thanks!

I was able to see the NX-9, VPLW995ES/870ES and 885ES/760ES in the same room. None of them were properly calibrated, so I'm on thin ice when comparing the three, of course.

Anyway, these are my thoughts:

1-I liked the NX-9 a lot. Didn't buy it, mainly because I didn't want to invest so much money in a lamp based PJ anymore. 8K eshift was not a real advantage, as expected. Oh, and the remote of the Sony's (along with the menu structure) is a lot better than the JVC's remote. Nevertheless, the pic quality of the NX-9 is top notch.

2-I also liked the 885ES/760ES a lot. It's still a great PJ, and if I owned one, I wouldn't trade if for the 995ES/870ES. The 995ES/870ES is better, but not so much better. I wonder how many people are able to to spot the 995ES in a blind test (haha, sort of) when the two are calibrated an being shown in the same room on the same screen.

3-All in all, I like the 995ES best (+ the knowledge that it won't dim as a lamp based PJ), so that's what I bought!
Thanks for that appraisal.

If I was in your position, I may well have gone for the N9 or 870 too. They weren't around when I bought my 760 however.

I would lose way too much money now by selling and buying an 870. I conservatively estimate that I would have to find another 15-18k (possibly more) after selling my 760 to buy an 870 and the improvement will simply not be worth it.

I would rather buy a new ride with that money instead! It would be a much better use of the funds than a marginal improvement in sharpness.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #445 of 1111 Old 03-19-2019, 02:25 PM
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I played around settings in service menu and I found something interesting:
There are two options:
• 223 Laser/Overdrive
• 226 Laser/LASER IRIS D SW (enables/disables iris)

When I turn On (0->1) Laser/Overdrive the laser level drops and I will get noticeable increased blacks and much better black floor.
What is interesting is that the lower the laser light output level slider - the bigger is the impact.
When turning laser level output to 0 and turning On Overdrive there is huge difference. Opposite with laser output level at full (100), there seems to be no difference in brightness.
Huge difference in black floor (also decrease of brightness in stars& spaceship) can be tested with famous Interstellar starfield scene or full black screen with one white pixel. (then laser will not shut off) The lower the laser output level the bigger the impact. (when overdrive is turned On)

Laser light output level slider has been in vw760 and 870 very subtle. Seems if to turn On Laser/overdrive it makes Laser slider a lot more aggressive without losing max brightness at level 100. I don’t have light meter so I cannot measure it exactly.

Can someone else test this and maybe knows more what the Laser/Overdrive option is doing?
Also, can VW760 owners look that is this option also present in VW760 or it is only in 870ES?
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Last edited by kaaga; 03-19-2019 at 03:55 PM.
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post #446 of 1111 Old 03-19-2019, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaaga View Post
I played around settings in service menu and I found something interesting:
There are two options:
• 223 Laser/Overdrive
• 226 Laser/LASER IRIS D SW (enables/disables iris)

When I turn off Laser/Overdrive the laser level drops and I will get noticeable increased blacks and much better black floor.
What is interesting is that the lower the laser light output level slider - the bigger is the impact.
When turning laser level output to 0 and turning off Overdrive there is huge difference. Opposite with laser output level at full (100), there seems to be no difference in brightness.
Huge difference in black floor (also decrease of brightness in stars& spaceship) can be tested with famous Interstellar starfield scene or full black screen with one white pixel. (then laser will not shut off) The lower the laser output level the bigger the impact. (when overdrive is turned off)

Laser light output level slider has been in vw760 and 870 very subtle. Seems if to turn off Laser/overdrive it makes Laser slider a lot more aggressive without losing max brightness at level 100. I don’t have light meter so I cannot measure it exactly.

Can someone else test this and maybe knows more what the Laser/Overdrive option is doing?
Also, can VW760 owners look that is this option also present in VW760 or it is only in 870ES?
Nice find. Ill check mine out mine next week when Im back in town. Itd be great if this tweak would improve the aggressiveness of the laser dimming

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post #447 of 1111 Old 03-19-2019, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaaga View Post
I played around settings in service menu and I found something interesting:
There are two options:
• 223 Laser/Overdrive
• 226 Laser/LASER IRIS D SW (enables/disables iris)

When I turn off Laser/Overdrive the laser level drops and I will get noticeable increased blacks and much better black floor.
What is interesting is that the lower the laser light output level slider - the bigger is the impact.
When turning laser level output to 0 and turning off Overdrive there is huge difference. Opposite with laser output level at full (100), there seems to be no difference in brightness.
Huge difference in black floor (also decrease of brightness in stars& spaceship) can be tested with famous Interstellar starfield scene or full black screen with one white pixel. (then laser will not shut off) The lower the laser output level the bigger the impact. (when overdrive is turned off)

Laser light output level slider has been in vw760 and 870 very subtle. Seems if to turn off Laser/overdrive it makes Laser slider a lot more aggressive without losing max brightness at level 100. I don’t have light meter so I cannot measure it exactly.

Can someone else test this and maybe knows more what the Laser/Overdrive option is doing?
Also, can VW760 owners look that is this option also present in VW760 or it is only in 870ES?



If you what you find is true, and not that I am doubting you since obviously you found something that changes the laser setting, but if it works, that would be terrific. I am teeter tottering between the 995es and RS4500. IF this works and there are not major drawbacks to this, then I will definitely be going the 995es route. Great find!!!
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post #448 of 1111 Old 03-19-2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Thanks for that appraisal.

If I was in your position, I may well have gone for the N9 or 870 too. They weren't around when I bought my 760 however.

I would lose way too much money now by selling and buying an 870. I conservatively estimate that I would have to find another 15-18k (possibly more) after selling my 760 to buy an 870 and the improvement will simply not be worth it.

I would rather buy a new ride with that money instead! It would be a much better use of the funds than a marginal improvement in sharpness.



I had a chance to view both the 885es, last Nov. and the 995es 2 weeks ago and from memory, which I know isn't that reliable, there was to me a big difference in sharpness even from my 15' seating position. It also seemed brighter and blacks, a little bit better. It wasn't calibrated, and again, 4 months time between makes the comparison is not 100% reliable like a side by side, but I do have really good memory when it comes to video from a projector. The sharpness in the unit I had was noticeably sharper. I wasn't the only one who noticed the sharpness. BUT I get not wanting to throw more money into a projector, where you may not notice a big enough difference.
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post #449 of 1111 Old 03-19-2019, 04:07 PM
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I make correction to my previous post. Laser/Overdrive must be turned from 0->1 to get the effect, so this means it must be turned "On" (not off). Default is 0 "Off".
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post #450 of 1111 Old 03-19-2019, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver700 View Post
I had a chance to view both the 885es, last Nov. and the 995es 2 weeks ago and from memory, which I know isn't that reliable, there was to me a big difference in sharpness even from my 15' seating position. It also seemed brighter and blacks, a little bit better. It wasn't calibrated, and again, 4 months time between makes the comparison is not 100% reliable like a side by side, but I do have really good memory when it comes to video from a projector. The sharpness in the unit I had was noticeably sharper. I wasn't the only one who noticed the sharpness. BUT I get not wanting to throw more money into a projector, where you may not notice a big enough difference.
Whilst I don't doubt any of what you said, to pay another 15-18k for it is foolish and won't yield enough if a difference to be worth the amount.
Buying an 870 without having already bought a 760 is a different matter however.
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