The Official Magnepan Owners Thread - Page 189 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5641 of 7302 Old 07-19-2018, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by wcladley View Post
I could be way off base on this, but I recall reading in some forum or magazine that switching the receiver to 4ohm mode was not necessary, as it starved the unit of power and did not offer any more protection over the protection circuits built into the receiver. I'd be curious if this is just a myth or it was something that applied to older receivers.
I'd not seen or read this. Interesting if true. I don't know exactly what the setting does, but would be curious to learn more.

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post #5642 of 7302 Old 07-25-2018, 05:59 AM
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I have just received my MG20.7R and in assembling I did find the ribbon tweeter end clips a little hard to push on and was worried that they could easily bend / break.
Does anybody bother to stick on the top & bottom decal covers.
The manual does say that the panel has been pre drilled for the tweeter screws but I did not find that.

I wonder why the Ribbon tweeter does not come already installed, as I can see no reason why not.
I will finish putting in the many many tweeter screws tomorrow & fire the babys up.

Hoping for an enlightened day.
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post #5643 of 7302 Old 07-25-2018, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jgwatt View Post
I have just received my MG20.7R and in assembling I did find the ribbon tweeter end clips a little hard to push on and was worried that they could easily bend / break.
Does anybody bother to stick on the top & bottom decal covers.
The manual does say that the panel has been pre drilled for the tweeter screws but I did not find that.

I wonder why the Ribbon tweeter does not come already installed, as I can see no reason why not.
I will finish putting in the many many tweeter screws tomorrow & fire the babys up.

Hoping for an enlightened day.
I've always assumed that they aren't preinstalled to reduce the chance of shipping damage -- the ribbons are quite fragile.

I leave the covers on myself, not sure if it makes any difference . . .
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post #5644 of 7302 Old 07-25-2018, 04:42 PM
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Unpackaging carries great risk of tweeter damage if they were preinstalled. Wind/suction from pulling off the plastic wrap and generally moving them around can cause problems, especially if someone happens to slip and drop them an inch or two flat when assembling the feet. AFAIK I never did, but I repaired plenty of brand-new Maggies for folk who made one little slip setting them up themselves. That magnetic protective strip on the tweeter is a great help in handling but again now and then someone would let it snap back (or even slip on edge and poke the ribbon -- ouch!) and take out a tweeter.
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post #5645 of 7302 Old 07-26-2018, 07:14 AM
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Some questions...

I recently bought a pair of Magnepan MG IIIa speakers (used obviously) that appear to be in good working condition.

At first I was disappointed in the sound and worried the bass part of the speakers was not working because when I played music there was a lack of bass. I plan to buy a new amp but for now I use an Onkyo NR708 which supports 4 ohm speakers. The specs say 110 watts at 8 ohms, but don't say anything about 4 ohms. I also do not play music very loud, so I had hoped 110w would be enough.

What I found is that if I use the "pure audio" setting that is when there is little to no bass and the mid-range sounds thin. But when I tried the Audyssey equalizer the bass and mid-rage suddenly appeared. And when I tweaked the "dynamic" settings, they "improved" even more. But now I worry that the sound is too artificial and not like it was intended.

So my questions are, could it be that the receiver is a bad match for Magnepan speakers and not sending the full dynamic range of sound in the "pure audio" mode? Would a "high current" amp sound noticeably better? Do I just need to live with using some type of equalizer to fill out the sound?
Which would be better, adding an external amp (Crown and Emotiva seem affordable), or buying something like the Outlaw 20160 (replacing the old Onkyo)? My other idea is get a basic Marantz receiver and adding an external amp (I've always like Marantz for music over Onkyo).
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post #5646 of 7302 Old 07-26-2018, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Everdog View Post
I recently bought a pair of Magnepan MG IIIa speakers (used obviously) that appear to be in good working condition.

At first I was disappointed in the sound and worried the bass part of the speakers was not working because when I played music there was a lack of bass. I plan to buy a new amp but for now I use an Onkyo NR708 which supports 4 ohm speakers. The specs say 110 watts at 8 ohms, but don't say anything about 4 ohms. I also do not play music very loud, so I had hoped 110w would be enough.

What I found is that if I use the "pure audio" setting that is when there is little to no bass and the mid-range sounds thin. But when I tried the Audyssey equalizer the bass and mid-rage suddenly appeared. And when I tweaked the "dynamic" settings, they "improved" even more. But now I worry that the sound is too artificial and not like it was intended.

So my questions are, could it be that the receiver is a bad match for Magnepan speakers and not sending the full dynamic range of sound in the "pure audio" mode? Would a "high current" amp sound noticeably better? Do I just need to live with using some type of equalizer to fill out the sound?
Which would be better, adding an external amp (Crown and Emotiva seem affordable), or buying something like the Outlaw 20160 (replacing the old Onkyo)? My other idea is get a basic Marantz receiver and adding an external amp (I've always like Marantz for music over Onkyo).
Hard to say without at least a spec and knowing how loud is loud, but Maggies typically do come alive with an amp of a few hundred watts.

I would also try using the tweeter resistors. As Wendell Diller of Magnepan likes to point out, the setting with the just the jumper is equivalent to turning the high frequency level control all the way up. Most people will want to use the resistors rather than the jumpers.

And finally it is possible in speakers of that age that the mids or highs aren't doing what they should. Old Maggies used an adhesive that was sensitive to ultraviolet light and over time the voice coil wires can delaminate from the diaphragm. The speaker will keep playing even though the wires are largely detached. Magnepan sells an inexpensive repair kit that lets you repair them if that's the case.
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post #5647 of 7302 Old 07-26-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh358 View Post
Hard to say without at least a spec and knowing how loud is loud, but Maggies typically do come alive with an amp of a few hundred watts.



I would also try using the tweeter resistors. As Wendell Diller of Magnepan likes to point out, the setting with the just the jumper is equivalent to turning the high frequency level control all the way up. Most people will want to use the resistors rather than the jumpers.



And finally it is possible in speakers of that age that the mids or highs aren't doing what they should. Old Maggies used an adhesive that was sensitive to ultraviolet light and over time the voice coil wires can delaminate from the diaphragm. The speaker will keep playing even though the wires are largely detached. Magnepan sells an inexpensive repair kit that lets you repair them if that's the case.

These are all very good comments.
If I might add, I used to own a set of MGIIIa. Having a good, high current amp is highly recommended. At one point I had a 200w amp and kept braking ribbons when I played too loud. Changed to a similar power but high current amp and never broke another ribbon. Ymmv.
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post #5648 of 7302 Old 07-26-2018, 01:47 PM
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Random comments:

They are dipoles and thus more sensitive to placement from the back wall than conventional speakers (but less sensitive to side walls and floor/ceiling). It can take a little while to figure out how to positions them; both toe-in and distance to the rear wall and MLP matter greatly. It is worth the effort.

Nothing wrong with letting your AVR boost the bass, but I would try experimenting with placement first to avoid spending too much power. They really need a sub if you want a lot of bass.

They are a fairly low but benign load in that the impedance does not vary much over frequency. Adding the tweeter resistor both attenuates the HF, usually desirable in most rooms, and also raise the impedance about an ohm so it is closer to 4 ohms (otherwise the ribbon is ~3 ohms or a little below; think mine measured 2.7 ohms through the crossover but been a while).

Blown ribbons are a big problem but they usually do not sound (blow open). Delamination is also an issue with the older models but you will hear the wires buzzing on the panels if that happens. I am fortunate that my MG-IIIa's have neither of those issues (knock on wood!)

I have seen a few blown crossovers but again the result is usually no sound for one of the panels. The bass section is not fused; only the midrange and tweeter sections.

I ran mine for a while with a 75 W/ch tube amp and they were plenty loud. I would work on other stuff before replacing the AVR or getting an amp. That said, Maggies are one of those times when I do suggest an external amp or at least a good receiver/AVR. The problem is not just the low impedance, it is also that they are pretty insensitive, so it takes much more power for the same SPL than most conventional speakers.

FWIWFM - Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #5649 of 7302 Old 07-26-2018, 10:10 PM
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I am trying to decide which would be the best amplifier for my new MG20.7.

Wired for Sound SX-1000R monoblocks.

Emotiva XPA-1L Class A A/B monoblocks.

I know the Emotiva is cheaper but less 4ohm output but its really all down to what gives the best Quality sound in the end.

Thank you all for your advice.

John
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post #5650 of 7302 Old 07-27-2018, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jgwatt View Post
I am trying to decide which would be the best amplifier for my new MG20.7.

Wired for Sound SX-1000R monoblocks.

Emotiva XPA-1L Class A A/B monoblocks.

I know the Emotiva is cheaper but less 4ohm output but its really all down to what gives the best Quality sound in the end.

Thank you all for your advice.

John
Both have decent reps here. Both are balanced designs.

It's actually Wyred 4 Sound but I have no experience with them... As Class D amps they should be much lighter and run cooler.

I drove my MG-IIIa's with Emotiva XPA-2 and it worked fine for me... A friend has XPA-1's (not XPA-1L's -- I do not see those on their website at the moment, replaced by their new class D PA-1?) driving B&W 803D's and really likes the amps, FWIW. They will be heavier and run much hotter than the Wyrd 4 Sound amps. It looks like the current model is the XPA-DR1.

I have no experience with the PA-1; it is new, and you might check the Emotiva Lounge as there is a thread there on it. It does have about half the power of the Wyrd but whether you need 1+ kW for them in your room and at your levels is something you'll have to decide. A rough estimate can be had using an online calculator like this one: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

The Wyrd is ~$1800, Emotiva PA-1 ~$300, Emotiva XPA-DR1 ~$1200 so if budget is a factor then trying the PA-1 is the obvious choice. It is rated to 2.5 ohms, nice to have since the ribbon does dip below 3 ohms (at least for previous 20.x models). If comparing the Wyrd to the PA-1 I suspect sonic signature will be similar.

Bryston has long been a favorite of mine (and Magnepan's, though they have a long relationship with Audio Research Corp). ATI and Benchmark are also on my current short list for more expensive amplifiers but you are looking at quite a bit more money unless you go used. I have not run a class D amp on Maggies enough to comment and have no experience with the latest crop of class D amps on them (and very little with them on anything else).

As an FYI, most folk use the tweeter resistor to tame the HF a bit. Not a problem for me at my age, alas.

HTH - Don
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post #5651 of 7302 Old 07-27-2018, 11:10 AM
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Bi-amp instead of external crossovers?

Is it possible to bi-amp a set of MG IIIa speakers and skip the external crossover units? Would crossover settings need to be set in the Amp or Receiver?
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post #5652 of 7302 Old 07-27-2018, 09:38 PM
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Is it possible to bi-amp a set of MG IIIa speakers and skip the external crossover units? Would crossover settings need to be set in the Amp or Receiver?
Yes, I ran that way for many, many years. Frankly I would not do it again, too much a PITA for the benefits these days. Back then I used a much more powerful amp on the bass panels and big (high-wattage) amps were much harder to come by than now. These days I would simply get a better (higher-wattage) amplifier and skip bi-amping.

That said, yes you can skip the external crossover and connect directly to the speakers. You will have to set the crossover someplace, either in the amp (assuming it has a built-in crossover) or receiver. One catch is that the crossover settings in most AVRs and processors these days target sub/satellite systems and do not let you set the crossover high enough, and the MG-IIIa used an asymmetric crossover design (LPF and HPF had different frequencies and slopes). I used an external crossover back then -- actually, several different ones through the years. Some matched Magnepan's internal design, some didn't.

Magnepan discusses bi-amping in the MG-IIIa's user manual including crossover frequencies and slopes. I am struggling trying to remember; seems like the mid/tweeter LPF was third-order (18 dB/octave) and bass HPF was second-order (12 dB/octave) and at slightly different frequencies reducing overlap between bass and midrange panels (the ribbon's crossover is still internal). Again IIRC the frequencies were like 300/500 Hz (LPF/HPF) which is high enough that the amps need to be roughly the same power (mine were not, 75 W/ch HF and 400 W/ch LF).

I ended up with different frequencies and slopes but am not sure what -- I went through several iterations before finding one that measured and sounded good. I used a standard Linkwitz crossover (single frequency, 24 dB/octave) for a while and it worked well.

MUG can be helpful (yes, I should have checked there first, but I cleaned up my numbers above): http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/M.../speakers.html

HTH - Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #5653 of 7302 Old 08-07-2018, 11:15 PM
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What do people do for Atmos with their Magnepan setups? I have 20.7 up front and 1.6 in the rear with phantom center. I think I am going to bite the bullet and get a CCR but while I am doing that am thinking of installing Atmos.
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post #5654 of 7302 Old 08-08-2018, 08:13 AM
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What do people do for Atmos with their Magnepan setups? I have 20.7 up front and 1.6 in the rear with phantom center. I think I am going to bite the bullet and get a CCR but while I am doing that am thinking of installing Atmos.
I hesitate to respond because I haven't installed anything yet. But I decided to get BG Radia ceiling speakers because I thought ribbons would be closer to the character of the Maggies. They were at a good clearance price a while ago. I was also interested in the GoldenEar Invisa for the same reason.
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post #5655 of 7302 Old 08-13-2018, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Both have decent reps here. Both are balanced designs.

It's actually Wyred 4 Sound but I have no experience with them... As Class D amps they should be much lighter and run cooler.

I drove my MG-IIIa's with Emotiva XPA-2 and it worked fine for me... A friend has XPA-1's (not XPA-1L's -- I do not see those on their website at the moment, replaced by their new class D PA-1?) driving B&W 803D's and really likes the amps, FWIW. They will be heavier and run much hotter than the Wyrd 4 Sound amps. It looks like the current model is the XPA-DR1.

I have no experience with the PA-1; it is new, and you might check the Emotiva Lounge as there is a thread there on it. It does have about half the power of the Wyrd but whether you need 1+ kW for them in your room and at your levels is something you'll have to decide. A rough estimate can be had using an online calculator like this one: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

The Wyrd is ~$1800, Emotiva PA-1 ~$300, Emotiva XPA-DR1 ~$1200 so if budget is a factor then trying the PA-1 is the obvious choice. It is rated to 2.5 ohms, nice to have since the ribbon does dip below 3 ohms (at least for previous 20.x models). If comparing the Wyrd to the PA-1 I suspect sonic signature will be similar.

Bryston has long been a favorite of mine (and Magnepan's, though they have a long relationship with Audio Research Corp). ATI and Benchmark are also on my current short list for more expensive amplifiers but you are looking at quite a bit more money unless you go used. I have not run a class D amp on Maggies enough to comment and have no experience with the latest crop of class D amps on them (and very little with them on anything else).

As an FYI, most folk use the tweeter resistor to tame the HF a bit. Not a problem for me at my age, alas.

HTH - Don
Check the D-Sonic forum and you will read that maggie owners are very pleased with www.d-sonic.com amplifiers.
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post #5656 of 7302 Old 08-13-2018, 02:09 AM
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Likewise outlaw m2200.
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post #5657 of 7302 Old 08-20-2018, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by conanb View Post
Check the D-Sonic forum and you will read that maggie owners are very pleased with www.d-sonic.com amplifiers.
Yes- I'm using a McIntosh MX122 with D-sonic 7x400 with my Magnepan 1.7i's. Not sure which 'piece' is responsible for the clarity- but I hear 'backing vocals' and 'instrument detail' I've never heard before!
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post #5658 of 7302 Old 09-01-2018, 03:36 AM
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Magneplanars and in-ceiling speakers

I was reading on this thread about Magnaplanars and Dolby Atmos...
I have a 5.1 setup with 4 SMGc, a CC3 and a Velodyne DD-12 subwoofer. I was thinking about buying the new Rotel RSP-1576 preamp and adding Dolby Atmos to my system. Since, aesthetically speaking, I don't like buying more Magneplanars and attaching them to the ceiling, I was thinking about buying traditional in-ceiling speakers.
Do you know which makes and models could closely match my SMGc ?
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post #5659 of 7302 Old 09-01-2018, 08:51 AM
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I was reading on this thread about Magnaplanars and Dolby Atmos...
I have a 5.1 setup with 4 SMGc, a CC3 and a Velodyne DD-12 subwoofer. I was thinking about buying the new Rotel RSP-1576 preamp and adding Dolby Atmos to my system. Since, aesthetically speaking, I don't like buying more Magneplanars and attaching them to the ceiling, I was thinking about buying traditional in-ceiling speakers.
Do you know which makes and models could closely match my SMGc ?
I don't know of any non-planar speaker that will closely match planars. You could do what SmittyJS suggested above and try the BG Radia ceiling speakers, BG's tweeters are planar magnetic and superb, but of course they're in an enclosure and lower frequencies are handled by cones.

That said, for Atmos movies, I'm not sure how much it matters that they match the sonic signature of the mains. Atmos is basically about effects, it has never sounded natural to me. For music surround, I'm guessing that you would be better of getting Magnepan's on-wall speakers, which will match quite nicely with the front.

Last edited by Josh358; 09-01-2018 at 08:55 AM.
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post #5660 of 7302 Old 09-01-2018, 04:09 PM
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I don't know of any non-planar speaker that will closely match planars. You could do what SmittyJS suggested above and try the BG Radia ceiling speakers, BG's tweeters are planar magnetic and superb, but of course they're in an enclosure and lower frequencies are handled by cones.

That said, for Atmos movies, I'm not sure how much it matters that they match the sonic signature of the mains. Atmos is basically about effects, it has never sounded natural to me. For music surround, I'm guessing that you would be better of getting Magnepan's on-wall speakers, which will match quite nicely with the front.
Those BG Radia speakers are very interesting, they don't ship to Italy but I could work it around.
I was interested in adding in ceiling speakers just for Atmos movies (no music involved) and I also am not sure how much matching the sonic signature matters, but that's what they suggest on Dolby's website.
Which amplifier would you suggest for the BGs ?
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post #5661 of 7302 Old 09-01-2018, 06:07 PM
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Yeah, ideally the speakers would all be identical so the timbre doesn't change as sounds move and so that you don't get phase cancellation and have a more stable image. But life is seldom ideal, LOL, if a plane flies over your head or a dinosaur stomps by it will be cool enough. :-)

Not sure about what amp to get. That really depends on the sensitivity and power handling of the speakers and I know their planar drivers but not their in-ceiling speakers. Maybe someone else can offer advice . . .
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post #5662 of 7302 Old 10-06-2018, 03:06 PM
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Unpackaging carries great risk of tweeter damage if they were preinstalled. Wind/suction from pulling off the plastic wrap and generally moving them around can cause problems, especially if someone happens to slip and drop them an inch or two flat when assembling the feet. AFAIK I never did, but I repaired plenty of brand-new Maggies for folk who made one little slip setting them up themselves. That magnetic protective strip on the tweeter is a great help in handling but again now and then someone would let it snap back (or even slip on edge and poke the ribbon -- ouch!) and take out a tweeter.
Don, I'm real tired replacing tweeters my 3.7i to the point of installing an after market planar tweeter. Do you know of any attempts, trials or dreams of accomplishments. By the way, the fuse never goes.
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post #5663 of 7302 Old 10-08-2018, 08:34 AM
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Don, I'm real tired replacing tweeters my 3.7i to the point of installing an after market planar tweeter. Do you know of any attempts, trials or dreams of accomplishments. By the way, the fuse never goes.
Hmmm... It has been a long time since I was a tech working on these, and never on a 3.7 though I don;t think the ribbon tweeter has changed much over the years. The only times I've dealt with repeated damaged tweeters it has either been simply too much power (too loud), somebody vacuuming them, and in one case I can recall (long ago) there was a crossover problem from the factory so the tweeter received too much low-frequency energy. (The latter I saw more often from people who decided to modify the crossover and did not pay attention to component values and changed it themselves.) I have found the fuse, again in the primordial past, would rarely save the ribbon, alas.

Has your dealer or Magnepan offered any advice or suggestions? Repeatedly blowing tweeters in a short time period is not usual IME.

Thoughts:
- Make sure the AVR or whatever is not boosting the treble. Or that you have not inadvertently turned it up yourself (I did that myself to compensate hearing roll-off, stupid, good way to blow tweeters).
- Use the included tweeter resistors if you are not already to cut their output a bit (add after any room correction, natch -- some boost the treble and do not give you the option to reduce).
- You may be able to do a frequency sweep and look for the crossover points -- I have found that almost impossible to do in a room even with the mic close, however. Put the mic right at the tweeter (maybe and inch in front) and see where its response picks up). The goal is to see if the crossover is buggered for some reason.

When I was a tech (approximately the time we switched from stone to rubber for tires ) there weren't any viable aftermarket replacements. Infinity had their new EMIT and there were a (very) few other variations but they were no more reliable, and in many cases less so, than Magnepan's ribbon.

Sorry to hear of your problems, that is... vexing, to say the least. - Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #5664 of 7302 Old 10-08-2018, 12:58 PM
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The Official Magnepan Owners Thread

I have had problems with broken ribbon tweeters on two distinct occasions.
The first one was repeated breakage due to amp power. Not because the amp was too powerful but the opposite: the amp was not powerful enough to handle the speaker. When playing loud music, the amp was clipping and breaking the tweeter. (the fuse also could burn sometimes but not always). Replacing the amp with a more powerful high current amp fixed the problem.

The other occurrences of repeated tweeter failures was the result of a bad batch of tweeters from Magnepan. (It took them a while to admit that anything was wrong on their end, but they eventually did).
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post #5665 of 7302 Old 10-11-2018, 06:50 PM
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Well, I finally picked up a pair of MMGis and I am currently in the break-in process. The speakers have, to my ears, opened up significantly over the past week and a half. I am, however noticing a distortion in the tweeters that was not there before. It is like brief moments of crackling static during higher frequency sections of orchestral music (in this case Bach's Goldberg Variations and some Mendelssohn pieces). It occurs in both speakers and happens when streaming and playing via an Oppo 105-D. I am not sure if a.) this is part of the break-in process b.) by amp is underpowered c. there is a problem with the speakers. Here are the specs on my amp:

Emotiva BasX A-300:
Power Output (both channels driven):
150 watts RMS per channel; 20 Hz – 20 kHz; THD < 0.1%; into 8 Ohms.
300 watts RMS per channel; 1 kHz; THD < 1%; into 4 Ohms.

Power Bandwidth (at rated power; 8 Ohm load): 20 Hz to 20 kHz (+ / – 0.07 dB)

I realize this amp isn't great, but I thought it would be good enough. I am listening at moderate levels -41- -31db. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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post #5666 of 7302 Old 10-12-2018, 11:48 PM
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I do not think that is part of the break-in process. Whenever I have measured break-in on Maggies the main effect was to drop the bass -3 dB corner a bit, with only minor (inaudible) changes to the tweeter sections. And only took a few hours of play time, which might equate to a week or so in real time.

If you turn the volume down, does the crackling go away? MMG's are two-way speakers and so the tweeter section may be carrying a heavy portion of the spectrum (I do not know their crossover frequency and Magnepan's site does not say last I checked). I tend to doubt the speakers are underpowered by that amp unless you are sitting fairly far away and cranking the volume. That said, Maggies are not terribly sensitive and do take some power -- but 300 W should be plenty (and probably as much as you'd want to feed MMGs).

It is possible the distortion is in the recording. If it is still there when you turn down the volume, that is probably the case. If it goes away, the problem is in the speakers or the amp is clipping. I would suspect the speakers...

Worst case you are overdriving the tweeters and the conductive traces are breaking free of the mylar diaphragm. That would be from driving them too hard or a manufacturing defect.

I would suggest getting a decent subwoofer -- Maggies do not generally like large LF signals.

I would also suggest calling Magnepan -- they are very helpful, but you have to call -- they don't "do" email.

HTH - Don
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post #5667 of 7302 Old 10-13-2018, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
I do not think that is part of the break-in process. Whenever I have measured break-in on Maggies the main effect was to drop the bass -3 dB corner a bit, with only minor (inaudible) changes to the tweeter sections. And only took a few hours of play time, which might equate to a week or so in real time.

If you turn the volume down, does the crackling go away? MMG's are two-way speakers and so the tweeter section may be carrying a heavy portion of the spectrum (I do not know their crossover frequency and Magnepan's site does not say last I checked). I tend to doubt the speakers are underpowered by that amp unless you are sitting fairly far away and cranking the volume. That said, Maggies are not terribly sensitive and do take some power -- but 300 W should be plenty (and probably as much as you'd want to feed MMGs).

It is possible the distortion is in the recording. If it is still there when you turn down the volume, that is probably the case. If it goes away, the problem is in the speakers or the amp is clipping. I would suspect the speakers...

Worst case you are overdriving the tweeters and the conductive traces are breaking free of the mylar diaphragm. That would be from driving them too hard or a manufacturing defect.

I would suggest getting a decent subwoofer -- Maggies do not generally like large LF signals.

I would also suggest calling Magnepan -- they are very helpful, but you have to call -- they don't "do" email.

HTH - Don
Thanks, Don! I tried turning down the volume and I still heard the distortion. I did notice that if I turned off dynamic volume control (set to medium by Audessy room correction), I could minimize the issue and only detect the distortion if I was really listening for it or right near the speaker. I also tried playing around with the crossover. It was set to 110hz by Audessy and I dropped it down to 90, but again, the issue was still present. I also tried listening the the recording on other equipment and I could not detect the distortion.
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post #5668 of 7302 Old 10-13-2018, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by wcladley View Post
Thanks, Don! I tried turning down the volume and I still heard the distortion. I did notice that if I turned off dynamic volume control (set to medium by Audessy room correction), I could minimize the issue and only detect the distortion if I was really listening for it or right near the speaker. I also tried playing around with the crossover. It was set to 110hz by Audessy and I dropped it down to 90, but again, the issue was still present. I also tried listening the the recording on other equipment and I could not detect the distortion.
That is strange. Is it in both channels? And only in the tweeter section, not the bass part of the panels (i.e. related to signal frequency and not some sort of mechanical buzzing in the panels themselves)?

I do not know much about Audyssey's dynamic volume. If Audyssey set the crossover to 110 Hz you should probably leave it there although that seems a little high for MMGs. I think Audyssey won't correct below what it thinks is the crossover (but am not sure -- have not used Audyssey in years). Changing the crossover from 110 Hz to 90 Hz I would not expect to have much impact. Is it still there if you turn Audyssey off?

Could you try powering the Maggies from a different amp and/or receiver? Painful, I know...

I have had crackling sounds caused by bad CDs in the past when the error correction couldn't handle the data loss due to gaps on the discs (worn-out CDs). No idea if that is a cause in this case; tend to doubt it, but throwing it out there.

I would still suggest calling Magnepan as they may have run into this issue and may know if they have seen speaker failures or not. They have had a bad build now and then through the years but IME have been good about setting things right.

I think there is a return period and if so you might want to try swapping them for a new pair to see if they have the same problem.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #5669 of 7302 Old 10-14-2018, 07:24 AM
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Try bypassing Audessy. Maybe it is boosting target frequencies too much .... trying to "hit" a target curve. If it sounds fine without Audessy then start fresh and run a new Audessy curve.

Magnepan 1.7's (LR), Magnepan CC5/DWM (Center Channel), Magnepan MC1's (Surrounds), Rythmik F12 (Sub), Emotiva XMC-1 (Processor), Emotiva XPA-2 Gen2 Drives the 1.7's, Emotiva XPA-5 Drives the Center and Surrounds, Oppo BDP-103 (Audio/Video Source), Oppo UDP-203 (Audio/Video Source), Apple TV 4K (Audio/Video Source), Sony PS4 (Audio/Video Source), LG OLED65B6P (Monitor)
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post #5670 of 7302 Old 10-15-2018, 03:50 AM
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Try bypassing Audessy. Maybe it is boosting target frequencies too much .... trying to "hit" a target curve. If it sounds fine without Audessy then start fresh and run a new Audessy curve.
I turned off the Dynamic Volume in Audessy and that seemed to have corrected the problem but the speakers just sounded flat and very quiet. I played around a bit and then activated the Audessy EQ Reference pre-set which was recommended after the room analysis but I always declined. This seems to be a happy medium-speakers have more power and a fuller sound, but the distortion is gone or at least undetectable. I think I will still call Magnepan as recommended to get their take.
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