The Official Magnepan Owners Thread - Page 226 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6751 of 6974 Old 08-27-2019, 07:40 PM
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Check the speaker fuses with an ohmmeter or just replace them.

Make sure the tweeter jumpers are in place and tight, and/or resistors. If resistors make sure they are still good (not open).

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post #6752 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Check the speaker fuses with an ohmmeter or just replace them.

Make sure the tweeter jumpers are in place and tight, and/or resistors. If resistors make sure they are still good (not open).
I thought about that...and there are two (what appear to be) replacement fuses in a plastic bag...I got a flashlight and looked at the two fuses that came preinstalled and they both LOOK fine but I am no electrician.

However, shouldn't these speakers work fine WITHOUT the fuses, based on what I have read they are just to prevent damage from an overload. The mimeographed manual does make it clear that removing them will void the warranty so I am a little hesitant to swap them out.
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post #6753 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 06:18 AM
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This is terrible. I wish I could help.

Site. DAC: Mytek Brooklyn DAC+ || Processor: Marantz AV8801 11.2 Ch || Power Amp: Audio Research Reference 75 (75W tube) || Speakers: Magnepan 3.5R/Polk LSiM707 || Sub 1: REL 212/SE (1,000W). Sub 2: REL S/3 (400W). Sub 3: Sunfire TS-EQ12 (2,700W). || Cables: Cardas Clear, MIT Matrix & T || Power: PS Audio P5 || Headphones: HifiMan HE560 || Turntable: Pro-Ject RPM5 Carbon w SoundSmith Zephyr MKIII
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post #6754 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 06:21 AM
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..don't blown fuses usually show a smoky black shadow on the glass somewhat similar to what a blown light bulb (used) to look like?

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post #6755 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 06:23 AM
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the filament can break if dropped by ups guys.
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post #6756 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Charles Mooney View Post
I thought about that...and there are two (what appear to be) replacement fuses in a plastic bag...I got a flashlight and looked at the two fuses that came preinstalled and they both LOOK fine but I am no electrician.

However, shouldn't these speakers work fine WITHOUT the fuses, based on what I have read they are just to prevent damage from an overload. The mimeographed manual does make it clear that removing them will void the warranty so I am a little hesitant to swap them out.
When the fuses blow the mid/tweeter panel is disconnected so only the bass panel is left. That will cause a muffled "bassy" sound with no midrange or high frequency sounds. I doubt that is the problem, but it is very odd that both speakers would fail right out of the box like that unless the amp glitched or something. I have in the past had amps that had a significant turn-on pop that would blow the tweeter fuses (usually a bad amp).

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..don't blown fuses usually show a smoky black shadow on the glass somewhat similar to what a blown light bulb (used) to look like?
Most of the time but not always. Sometimes they separate ("blow") without much indication, and sometimes a bad fuse will look normal. If you do not have a meter just try replacing them with the spares and see if it helps. I am not sure how they are mounted in the LRS; sometimes a small screwdriver or just a pen can be used to pry from the end instead of the middle of the fuses to pop them out.
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post #6757 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 06:35 AM
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It IS weird that they both kinda crapped out at virtually the same time. Kinda worries me that will be used as an excuse to say I damaged the speakers. Me, I don't consider a preamp volume knob set to just a hair over 12 noon constitutes overdriving a pair of speakers -- am I wrong?

The fact that 20 year old KEF floorstanders and ye olde SMGa still both put out plenty of volume should indicate that *I* didnt damage the speakers...no? That all is well with the Parasound?



Anyway, Im not gonna go on and on about this..just printed out my Parasound manual and will study the heck out of it. Gonna buy/borrow some speaker wire and determine tonight whether or not these things go back.


I had 5 minutes of pure audio ecstasy (I *swore* I could hear the guitarist's fingers squeak on the strings) and then...ugh.
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post #6758 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles Mooney View Post
It IS weird that they both kinda crapped out at virtually the same time. Kinda worries me that will be used as an excuse to say I damaged the speakers. Me, I don't consider a preamp volume knob set to just a hair over 12 noon constitutes overdriving a pair of speakers -- am I wrong?

The fact that 20 year old KEF floorstanders and ye olde SMGa still both put out plenty of volume should indicate that *I* didnt damage the speakers...no? That all is well with the Parasound?



Anyway, Im not gonna go on and on about this..just printed out my Parasound manual and will study the heck out of it. Gonna buy/borrow some speaker wire and determine tonight whether or not these things go back.


I had 5 minutes of pure audio ecstasy (I *swore* I could hear the guitarist's fingers squeak on the strings) and then...ugh.
Of all the set of Maggies that I've had since the early 70s, I've had nuttin happen other than my doggie like to pee on them
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post #6759 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 04:16 PM
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@Charles Mooney you say you had KEF’s wired to B channel?

Were you running both pairs at the same time?
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post #6760 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 07:06 PM
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Connected but only the channel A button was pressed.

What I don’t I understand is how having even two pairs running would have caused damage to the speakers.


But just one pair being actively fed that audio signal.

I have on past occasions had the SMGa going the same time as the KEF and played it a LOT louder and for a lot longer than I did for the five whole minutes the LRS were running solo
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post #6761 of 6974 Old 08-28-2019, 07:24 PM
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back in the 90's I had 2 pairs of bose 301's hooked to a/b at same time. I couldnt turn volume up past halfway for 10 minutes before amp would shut down/protect mode. it said it was 140 watts....but that was bs imo. running a and b at same time requires low volumes imo....well at least with my setup back then. to try and run a and b with 4 ohm speakers requires at least 2 ohm stable amp...well Im sure others with more recent knowledge will chime in.
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post #6762 of 6974 Old 08-29-2019, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
back in the 90's I had 2 pairs of bose 301's hooked to a/b at same time. I couldnt turn volume up past halfway for 10 minutes before amp would shut down/protect mode. it said it was 140 watts....but that was bs imo. running a and b at same time requires low volumes imo....well at least with my setup back then. to try and run a and b with 4 ohm speakers requires at least 2 ohm stable amp...well Im sure others with more recent knowledge will chime in.
torii,

I had no idea the LRS could dip down as low as 2.8 Ohms. There's a lot of Mid-Range Music in that area. That could be a problem for some amps.

From Stereophile Review:
Read more at https://www.stereophile.com/content/...QafFDKmf3gs.99

"...Because a panel speaker has a dipolar radiation pattern, this sensitivity can't be directly compared with that of a conventional box speaker—the dipole emits as much sound to its rear as it does to the front. Even so, the LRS will not go very loud with low-powered amplifiers.

Magnepan specifies the LRS's nominal impedance as 4 ohms. My measurement of the speaker's impedance magnitude (fig.1, solid trace) revealed that the LRS behaves more like a 3.33-ohm load, with a minimum value of 2.8 ohms between 400 and 600Hz. However, the electrical phase angle (dotted trace) is very low; the LRS behaves almost like a pure resistance. This loudspeaker will work well with amplifiers that have no problem driving 4-ohm loads..."

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post #6763 of 6974 Old 08-29-2019, 10:08 AM
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Many Maggies dip around or below 3 ohms. The phase angle is low so it is mostly resistive, thus an "easy" load, but the combination of low sensitivity and low impedance means a beefy amplifier is usually warranted, or a tube amp with a 4-ohm tap.
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post #6764 of 6974 Old 08-29-2019, 11:23 AM
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Thinking of getting these monoblocks to try pushing the 3.5R's . May be these will open them up?
Does anyone owned these in the past?

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post #6765 of 6974 Old 08-29-2019, 01:24 PM
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Thinking of getting these monoblocks to try pushing the 3.5R's . May be these will open them up?
Does anyone owned these in the past?
ARC has gotten a lot of bad rap about their solid state amps. I, personally, probably wouldn't do that. ARC tube stuff, great.
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post #6766 of 6974 Old 08-29-2019, 01:49 PM
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If you are considering ML amps and find them musical, I think you need to audition Pass Labs with the 20.7. i find Pass more musical and natural sounding than ML (at least the older models). I bought an older Threshold amp (pre Pass Labs) about 13-14yrs for my 1.6 and haven't even considered changing it. I had a Belles Hot Rod and AudioLab prior. Typing that just had me realize how long I've had my Threshold driving my 1.6 and how much longer I've had my 1.6 which is close to 17-18yrs.

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Like the nickname! A Huge Threshold fan, Pass of course is also great but a tad on the heavy side of a pocketbook! I guess that depends on your pocketbook. I use to have T-100,T-200 and the monster T-800D, all sounded wonderful with my Dynaudio speakers I had in the past, now the Belles gear I am also a fan of, but not till you get more into their MB-200 series Amps, which I currently own. The a lot of Threshold Class A stuff had that smooth tube sound to them, currently using a VT-01 Belles Tube Pre/Amp and MB-200 Monoblocs with similar results with the Maggie 1.7is. I occasional look for a T series that has been rebuilt as you just don't know what your getting used these days especially on much older Amps. FirstWatt is another one that is very good and better priced than Pass, and similar sounding. I tried a Wyred4Sound on the Maggies, and it didn't sound too bad, careful selection of a DAC is needed to smooth over the harshness some Digital Amps have. I did read some where a guy was using a new Aria Belles Int. Amp to drive a pair of 1.7 with no issues at all, which doesn't surprise me. Been a big Dynaudio fan for some time, but they went the CHIFI route and just doesn't appeal to me as much as they once did, hence I am jumping back on the Maggie bandwagon, never jumped off though.

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post #6767 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 05:37 AM
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ARC has gotten a lot of bad rap about their solid state amps. I, personally, probably wouldn't do that. ARC tube stuff, great.
Thanks, Scott. I already have an ARC tube amp, even a reference one at that. The operating theory is it's 75W power may not be enough. It may or may not be true. I can see the VU meters moving and they rarely hit 15W even on the loud dynamic passages. Never reached the 75W, ever. So, what Don suggested is to try a more powerful amp.
I know the tube power amp that will definitely work. It is a tube monoblock and is rated 750W and more importantly an ARC. There is a small teeny tiny microscopic problem with it. I mention it only in passing. It costs $35,000. Each (they are monoblocks). But to get those I will have to sell the house and move in with my dogs, which they are not going to approve of because they hate my grooming habits. So, there is that.
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post #6768 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 06:43 AM
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Thanks, Scott. I already have an ARC tube amp, even a reference one at that. The operating theory is it's 75W power may not be enough. It may or may not be true. I can see the VU meters moving and they rarely hit 15W even on the loud dynamic passages. Never reached the 75W, ever. So, what Don suggested is to try a more powerful amp.
I know the tube power amp that will definitely work. It is a tube monoblock and is rated 750W and more importantly an ARC. There is a small teeny tiny microscopic problem with it. I mention it only in passing. It costs $35,000. Each (they are monoblocks). But to get those I will have to sell the house and move in with my dogs, which they are not going to approve of because they hate my grooming habits. So, there is that.
Oh my God...it's like I'm 8 years old and wandering around in Toys R Us on Christmas Eve
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post #6769 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 06:51 AM
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Oh my God...it's like I'm 8 years old and wandering around in Toys R Us on Christmas Eve
In that case the 160M will kill you. Been nice knowing you.

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Talking

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In that case the 160M will kill you. Been nice knowing you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d52CvZTKYAY
Line rewritten from Film 2001..."Oh my God,it's full of 160Ms..."
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post #6771 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 07:05 AM
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Like the nickname! A Huge Threshold fan, Pass of course is also great but a tad on the heavy side of a pocketbook! I guess that depends on your pocketbook. I use to have T-100,T-200 and the monster T-800D, all sounded wonderful with my Dynaudio speakers I had in the past, now the Belles gear I am also a fan of, but not till you get more into their MB-200 series Amps, which I currently own. The a lot of Threshold Class A stuff had that smooth tube sound to them, currently using a VT-01 Belles Tube Pre/Amp and MB-200 Monoblocs with similar results with the Maggie 1.7is. I occasional look for a T series that has been rebuilt as you just don't know what your getting used these days especially on much older Amps. FirstWatt is another one that is very good and better priced than Pass, and similar sounding. I tried a Wyred4Sound on the Maggies, and it didn't sound too bad, careful selection of a DAC is needed to smooth over the harshness some Digital Amps have. I did read some where a guy was using a new Aria Belles Int. Amp to drive a pair of 1.7 with no issues at all, which doesn't surprise me. Been a big Dynaudio fan for some time, but they went the CHIFI route and just doesn't appeal to me as much as they once did, hence I am jumping back on the Maggie bandwagon, never jumped off though.
Nice setups. I'll add the VT-01 Belles to my list of preamps to audition when the time comes. My Placette passive has been a good work horse but am curious. The Micro ZOTL3 is first on my list though. My setup still makes me smile when I do listen which is why it's difficult for me to change gear.

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Just got off the phone with Eric, he said they should have the LRS out to me by Christmas 2020, but no promises.

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post #6773 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 07:37 AM
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Just got off the phone with Eric, he said they should have the LRS out to me by Christmas 2020, but no promises.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izQB2-Kmiic
Hopefully...you'll be like a kid on Christmas morning.
Got my fingers crossed for all who wait on their LRSs
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post #6774 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 07:43 AM
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Nice setups. I'll add the VT-01 Belles to my list of preamps to audition when the time comes. My Placette passive has been a good work horse but am curious. The Micro ZOTL3 is first on my list though. My setup still makes me smile when I do listen which is why it's difficult for me to change gear.

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The VT-01 use 4 tubes, the VT-02 uses 2, David said the VT-01 was one of his favorite he has built, the good and bad news he doesn't advertise and is more of a couple man show when building these but the detail to quality is pretty remarkable. I will pay the extra cost if some thing that is good, and it's built in Europe/Canada and or US, but I am getting a tad Perplexed that people are excepting and feel it's no big deal if these high end stuff is going the CHIFI route. It sure isn't getting less expensive for the customer. lol Now back to the hand made stuff in the good old USA: I should have a Belles Aria Int. Amp here today I read some guy was using this with 1.7 and loved it. I just recently tried a NAD M10 and had it for a few months, but not a fan of the Sabre Dacs and the Amp section, it might run a pair of .7 ok, but I have tried dozens of digital Amps over the years, they just don't cut it in the dynamics department for me.

Dynaudio Confidence C2 Platinums (Mocca), Dynaudio Contour 20's (Grey Oak) KEF LS50 (Black), Magnepan 1.7i, Belles VT-01/MB-200s, NAD M10, Hegel, Musical Fidelity and various other good brands.. HT system: Dynaudio SCX Center, Dynaudio In-Walls for Surrounds and Sony VPL-295ES possibly a new Monitor in the future.
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Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post
Thanks, Scott. I already have an ARC tube amp, even a reference one at that. The operating theory is it's 75W power may not be enough. It may or may not be true. I can see the VU meters moving and they rarely hit 15W even on the loud dynamic passages. Never reached the 75W, ever. So, what Don suggested is to try a more powerful amp.
I know the tube power amp that will definitely work. It is a tube monoblock and is rated 750W and more importantly an ARC. There is a small teeny tiny microscopic problem with it. I mention it only in passing. It costs $35,000. Each (they are monoblocks). But to get those I will have to sell the house and move in with my dogs, which they are not going to approve of because they hate my grooming habits. So, there is that.
As much as I've liked ARC for almost 50 years, I don't care for the Reference 600 or 750. I would frankly prefer a used GS150 or a new

https://audioresearch.com/product/ref-160-s/

or

https://audioresearch.com/product/ref160m/
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post #6776 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 08:34 AM
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@grigorianvlad order a Benchmark AHB2
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post #6777 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
@grigorianvlad order a Benchmark AHB2
Why? Not that powerful or cheap

Site. DAC: Mytek Brooklyn DAC+ || Processor: Marantz AV8801 11.2 Ch || Power Amp: Audio Research Reference 75 (75W tube) || Speakers: Magnepan 3.5R/Polk LSiM707 || Sub 1: REL 212/SE (1,000W). Sub 2: REL S/3 (400W). Sub 3: Sunfire TS-EQ12 (2,700W). || Cables: Cardas Clear, MIT Matrix & T || Power: PS Audio P5 || Headphones: HifiMan HE560 || Turntable: Pro-Ject RPM5 Carbon w SoundSmith Zephyr MKIII
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post #6778 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotth3886 View Post
As much as I've liked ARC for almost 50 years, I don't care for the Reference 600 or 750. I would frankly prefer a used GS150 or a new

https://audioresearch.com/product/ref-160-s/

or

https://audioresearch.com/product/ref160m/
The GS series are discontinued due to poor sales.

Site. DAC: Mytek Brooklyn DAC+ || Processor: Marantz AV8801 11.2 Ch || Power Amp: Audio Research Reference 75 (75W tube) || Speakers: Magnepan 3.5R/Polk LSiM707 || Sub 1: REL 212/SE (1,000W). Sub 2: REL S/3 (400W). Sub 3: Sunfire TS-EQ12 (2,700W). || Cables: Cardas Clear, MIT Matrix & T || Power: PS Audio P5 || Headphones: HifiMan HE560 || Turntable: Pro-Ject RPM5 Carbon w SoundSmith Zephyr MKIII
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post #6779 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post
Why? Not that powerful or cheap
See any used ones for sale?
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post #6780 of 6974 Old 08-30-2019, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
See any used ones for sale?
There are no used ones for sale. But why the Benchmark?

This W4S power amp is much better and cheaper and 3 times as powerful.

Site. DAC: Mytek Brooklyn DAC+ || Processor: Marantz AV8801 11.2 Ch || Power Amp: Audio Research Reference 75 (75W tube) || Speakers: Magnepan 3.5R/Polk LSiM707 || Sub 1: REL 212/SE (1,000W). Sub 2: REL S/3 (400W). Sub 3: Sunfire TS-EQ12 (2,700W). || Cables: Cardas Clear, MIT Matrix & T || Power: PS Audio P5 || Headphones: HifiMan HE560 || Turntable: Pro-Ject RPM5 Carbon w SoundSmith Zephyr MKIII
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