Holy crap! Jeff is on a roll here...

Just saw this on FB:

2020 Noesis 228HT with a new ultra high performance, 1.4" exit, ferrite compression driver. Price lowered to $1299, almost as low as when first introduced in 2013 ($1199).

I won't post a picture as it looks exactly like a 228HT.

It seems the 2020 version won't have the B&C DE990TN, which is a titanium diaphragm, neodymium magnet driver.

Also on FB:

Introductory sale: 15% off for the 2020 210HT and 228HT:

2020 Noesis 210HT $1599 each @ 15% off = $1359 ea + shipping
2020 Noesis 228HT $1299 each @ 15% off = $1104 ea + shipping

Through the end of the month.

Dang... At this price I am wondering if I should get the 2020 Noesis 110HTs or the 2020 228HTs for surrounds...

The 110s right? It seems they’d have wider dispersion than the 228s?

I only state that due to me originally wanting 212RTs all around and being talked out of that and being directed towards the Slant8s as they have a wider dispersion for surrounds.

I’m assuming the 10s follow the dispersion pattern of the 8s?

Decided to introduce new products this time of year instead of doing holiday sales. The Noesis 228HT is using a really nice B&C 1.4" exit ferrite compression driver and the Noesis 210HT is using the DE990TN.

The Noesis 110HT and 110HT-SL do have wider dispersion than the other Noesis however the other Noesis work well as surrounds as long as they are far enough from the listening positions and aimed correctly. The even response across the coverage pattern means you can be anywhere within the coverage pattern.

When the compression driver (coaxial or not) is horn loaded, the horn limits dispersion to 60° x 60°.

The Single 8HT variants and the 110HTs use coaxial compression drivers that are not horn loaded. The 8CN552 driver in the Single 8HT has 90° x 90° dispersion. The 10FCX64 driver in the 110HT has 70° x 70°

Surrounds tend to be closer to the seating area and most people can't toe them in as much as the mains, therefore a wider dispersion is generally appreciated.

Thanks! Awesome explanation. My dream setup is seven 215RTs, with LFE routed to all of them.

I’m a long way from there though. Lol.

My speaker locations are too close to my listening position at this point now though.

That’s kinda what I thought. Thanks Chucky!

Was playing some music at 55% on my McIntosh Pre and decided to pull out the DB meter to see what the reading would be at my seating position. Was surprised to see it hitting 120db....damn these NOESIS speakers get loud!!! I am looking forward to trying this again when I get my other subs this friday.


Greg

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Thinking of finally adding a center channel. Also interested in the new surrounds.

If you have the JTR 210RTs, you can go with (in the order of how they match) 210RM, 210HT, 228HTR or 228HT. For surrounds, the 110HT are more than capable. I am figuring out if I can get away with not hanging my surrounds. If so, the intro pricing on the new 228HT and 210HT are really enticing.

For a mainly movies set up, a capable center makes a huge difference. The full and rich voice from my 212HT center just keeps me hooked even for dialogue driven movies without much bass from action scenes.

Have you figured out why your receiver shut off yet?

I don't listen to music that loud. However, I have played movie clips at -3MV (with eco mode) and never had a problem.

what subs are you going with?

You are just scratching the surface...

Put some ear plugs in at those levels though.

I have dual RS1's coming in on friday. I am going to run all 4 18's and see how they compare. I currently have dual F18 rythmiks. If I can get them to play nice together I will keep them all, if not then whichever I like least will get sold/returned.


Greg

Which will hold you until the G28 comes out???

Would be great to see a clear photo of your front soundstage. From what I can see, looks pretty cool! That 210RM looks impressive!

Here ya go, taken just now. Soon to be RS1's on top of those Rythmiks.

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The 210RM is what I have my eye on. Should be right at ear height sitting on my stand. I don't expect it to add much for me personally, as I live alone and I'm always in the sweet spot, but I do expect it to add significantly to the experience for my guests. They somehow always seem to find the worsts spots imaginable to sit.

Still haven't figured out what caused my receiver to shut off. I just figured I went a bit too loud, but I'm starting to think that's not the case. Could it be an electrical issue? I've had issues with what I feared was both my subwoofers, but it turned out to an issue with the outlet in both cases.

210RM is perfect! Personally I would get the largest center possible, then the fronts to match.

Yeah, phantom center would work for movies if you are sitting closer to the sweet spot. I have read that the imaging will collapse and voices won't sound like coming from the screen if you are not..

When I listen to music on the 212s, I had to double check if the AVR is indeed in stereo because I sensed the sound is coming from the center channel.

If the receiver is plugged into the same outlet that was problematic for your subs, you probably should check it. Open it up and make sure it's wired properly. Even if you replace it with a hospital grade receptacle, it's only $5.

Ran a test today.

I put in earplugs, put on a Beck song and set the receiver on +10. I couldn't get my spl meter to go above 100spl(99.9), but I don't think I believe the spl meter(it was ~$20 on amazon). It was so loud that I had to wear earplugs. No clip lights on the amps, and no receiver shutoff. I just find it hard to believe that it was less than 100db. I usually listen at -4 to +4 on the receiver, and that's loud enough to hear the music clearly from the very back of my backyard with these speakers. I would think that +10 on the amp would be well over 100db with speakers this sensitive. Maybe I need a better spl meter.

Sounds like it's not reading right. I haven't tried running my receiver super hot with an SPL meter. I know my Mac Pre will get much much louder than my receiver, but certainly you are above 100db. I break 100db at much lower volumes. I can test tomorrow if you like.

**Just tested spotify music at -20 and was seeing 98db on my SPL meter. Something is wrong with your SPL meter.**

Greg

What spl meter do you use?

I believe he uses a handheld SPL meter.

Since I already have a UMIK-1 for REW, I don't feel like spending money on another SPL meter just for reference purposes only. I got the NIOSH SLM app for my phone. I set it to Z weighting which has a flat frequency response of 10Hz to 20kHz ±1.5dB -- also good for bass.

I accidentally dented one of my woofer dust caps today with my knee while moving the speakers. Any ideas for removing the dent? I know it doesn't affect sound quality, but it doesn't look as good

I’ve used tape before. Carefully tape the part that’s dented. Let it sit for a couple of seconds so that the adhesive gets a good grip. Then carefully pull on the tape so that it pulls the dent with it.

I hesitate to say this out loud, but the best method I've found is to suck it out. I had that happen to some old speakers, and tried every suggestion I could find before reluctantly trying that one. It works better and is less likely to do damage.

Just buy a new speaker, it's easier than explaining this to the wife if she walks in mid "fix."

Greg

Just be careful with the vacuum cleaner.

Is there a way to run the woofer's on the 215rt and rm hot? Thinking about purchasing it before Christmas. Is the Behringer NX4-6000 enough to power these?

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

Would you not be using subs?

If your amp has DSP that would work, or add a MiniDSP between the avr and your amp.

You could add a MiniDSP nanonavr and contour the signal before it gets to the avr.

The nx4 would work, but they can take much much more that they can provide.