Carver AL-III - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 23 Old 10-26-2009, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello,
I recently picked up a pair of these Carver AL-III's and they are in very good condition. I got them for $35.00. Nope, no mistake $35.00. I have'nt found too much info on them and tought I would try here.

Does any one have them? Has any one done any mods on them? Any and all info, pictures, questions, ect. will be great.

"goodtimes"
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post #2 of 23 Old 10-26-2009, 09:53 AM
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I don't know what you have for an amp, but I have heard that those speakers need a lot of power.
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post #3 of 23 Old 10-26-2009, 04:59 PM
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I think that the Carver forum is at:
http://www.carveraudio.com/phpBB2/

They might need power, but big power is inexpensive these days.
The only problem may be finding replacement woofers.

Kevin
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post #4 of 23 Old 10-27-2009, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.
I have an older Pioneer Elite 49txi receiver and an older Yamaha RX-V2095. I have tried them with both and they sound great, but man I have to turn the volume up way higher than I usually do with my swans in order to attain good ( fairly loud ) listening levels. I am going back and forth between Adcom and Emotiva for separate amps. I am just curious how much difference it will make. I have read several differences in opinion.
Back to the Carvers, I think they definitly need more juice.
The woofers are in great condition. In fact the only things wrong are a few minor nicks and dings, and the foam down the center is gone (common with these I read ).
I am going to try the bi-amp mode on my Pioneer but I am not sure it will make a difference as it probably uses the same power supply for the separate channels. The manual says that in bi-amp mode the receiver utilizes the surround back amp to powere the front B speakers.

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post #5 of 23 Old 10-27-2009, 02:16 PM
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Go to the Carver site. I've heard AL IIIs here and at a friends. Mid 80s efficient and they require serious 4 ohm current/power to do them justice. I've heard them on tube monos and they are unbelievable. Adcom or Emo is a start, but you might want to look at bi-amping with a pair of Carver TFM35s (250/400 x2), 45s(375/525 x2) or 55s (380/550 X 2). You're going to fry your receiver. Get an amp on them post haste.

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post #6 of 23 Old 10-27-2009, 03:56 PM
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Well they might not play real, real loud they are inefficient speakers. I'm not at all familiar with ether receiver but the Carvers are a reasonable 4 Ohm load and should not damage any competent receiver.

Kevin
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post #7 of 23 Old 10-27-2009, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks,
I was just looking at a Carver TFM amp. I was also considering the Carver cube amps bridged in mono @ 400 or 500 wpc. I don't think I will fry my receiver it is built pretty good and doesn't seem to distort much just doesn't get as loud as it does with other speakers. I had it all the way up today and got some distortion at about +6 (goes up to +12), but at 0 it was sounding good. Maybe some Adcom mono gfa 565's or a couple emotiva mono xpa-1's would get these babies pumpin'?

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post #8 of 23 Old 10-28-2009, 05:02 PM
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The cubes are rather old now and they were the ones that fried when new.
Lots of big low priced new power amps on the market now.

Kevin
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post #9 of 23 Old 10-28-2009, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedskater View Post

The cubes are rather old now and they were the ones that fried when new.
Lots of big low priced new power amps on the market now.

Any suggestions would be very helpful (on the big low priced amps).
Thanks.

"goodtimes"
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post #10 of 23 Old 10-29-2009, 12:19 AM
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Those speakers are 4 ohm and dip below that. Bridging an amp to drive 4 ohm speakers is not recommended, most are only stable at 8 in bridged mode. I've heard of some that have done it, but they're tweakers and if the amp blows, they repair or replace, no sweat.

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post #11 of 23 Old 10-29-2009, 04:22 PM
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Bridging amps to low impedance speakers is a bad move in general.
With my Amazing IV's and a pair of TFM-35's the amps were very unhappy bridged.
Bi-amping with passive or active worked much better.

Kevin
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post #12 of 23 Old 11-05-2009, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Kinda crazy setup, but this is what I have going for the moment. I took my Pioneer and split the pre out using the amp section of the Pioneer VSX D1S for the ribbons and am using the amp section of a Yamaha RX-V2095 for the bass driver. It has a clearer sound and seems to image a bit better. Regardless it will put less of a load on the receiver.
What do you guys think?

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post #13 of 23 Old 04-20-2010, 08:07 PM
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Let me if you don't want the speakers.
They are good for some type of music, Rap is out of the question.
Never connect them to a receiver or Home theater system because you will fry the amp. this units require huge amount of power, but you will be pleased once you have them up and running.
try a McIntosh MC2700, it will deliver the power you need, also, please note you can refurbish the woofer yourself, or you can replace them altogether with a pair of Infinity Kappa perfect 10, do not try anything else, the kappas will increase the overall base of both towers
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post #14 of 23 Old 04-20-2010, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watsal View Post

Let me if you don't want the speakers.
They are good for some type of music, Rap is out of the question.
Never connect them to a receiver or Home theater system because you will fry the amp. this units require huge amount of power, but you will be pleased once you have them up and running.
try a McIntosh MC2700, it will deliver the power you need, also, please note you can refurbish the woofer yourself, or you can replace them altogether with a pair of Infinity Kappa perfect 10, do not try anything else, the kappas will increase the overall base of both towers

Good advice, and timely.

Ron
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post #15 of 23 Old 04-20-2010, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, I thought this was old and dead.....

Thanks for the advice! I love these speakers and will have them for a long time to come. I have not fried any recievers yet, but I don't try to play them really loud by any means. At the time they are at my dads running off an old Kenwood Model Eleven G. They sound good, again at moderate volume.

I will look into the kappa woofers. any other tweak advice??

"goodtimes"
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post #16 of 23 Old 12-09-2014, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodtimes View Post
Wow, I thought this was old and dead.....<br><br>
Thanks for the advice! I love these speakers and will have them for a long time to come. I have not fried any recievers yet, but I don't try to play them really loud by any means. At the time they are at my dads running off an old Kenwood Model Eleven G. They sound good, again at moderate volume.<br><br>
I will look into the kappa woofers. any other tweak advice??
Hi
Did you replace the passive Crossovers on your ALiii's? I am thinking of Bi-Amping my ALiii (purchased new in the 90's).
Been reading a lot of forums, and it can get a expensive - to do it up right.

I replaced the subs with Infinity Reference - much better sounding.

Thanks
Art

Last edited by amattiel; 12-09-2014 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Left a part out
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post #17 of 23 Old 12-21-2014, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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I have not gotten into them...yet! I am planning to at some point, just have not had the time or funds to do it right. Bi amping them will prove very worth while. I eventually got an Adcom GFA 585le to use with mine and the difference is quite noticeable going from a receiver (as was to be expected). I have since gotten another GFA 585le and will be Bi amping them once I get new subwoofer drivers for them (one of my originals lost the foam surround). I expect at that point they will be performing very nicely.

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post #18 of 23 Old 12-26-2014, 06:08 PM
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Bi Amp Aliii

hi
i finished bi amping my aliii. can not seem to get it right!
I have two B&K Amps. My original B&K st3030 drives the woofers, the used B&K refrence 2220 drives the ribbons. cut the passive xo and instaleed a active ashly in the rack with two rane pe17's. then my original bk pro 10 preamp.
still workingon the adjustments, nut can not seem to get the ashly to perform as the passives did... using the new diana krall 180 grain lp.
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post #19 of 23 Old 08-23-2015, 05:34 PM
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Sunfire power

Using a Sunfire 300x2 on my Platinum's (300 watts into 8 ohms/600 in 4 ohms)
Using a Carver MXR-2000 Receiver on my ALS III's (200 plus watts per channel)
Going to bi-amp the Platinum's when I find another Sunfire 300x2
Repairing a Carver M1.5t for the ALS III's (350 watts into 8 ohms over 400 into 4 ohms)

ALL MY MONEY I SPENT ON AUDIO AND VIDEO; THE REST I JUST WASTED!
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post #20 of 23 Old 09-06-2015, 10:57 AM
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Anyone know if the carver PM900 is s newer model than the carver M-1.5T
Which is the better model
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post #21 of 23 Old 05-21-2018, 04:54 PM
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I'm still using mine (I have the active crossover network that was designed for it as well) and I found as the ribbons loosened up it was possible to tighten them more than just using a hairdryer (there are screws up and below the ribbons on the front. Tighten them evenly and after a few days all the "slappy" "loose" sounds disappeared! They are now 22 years old. But today I think I might have damaged a woofer cone in one of the speakers (made a horrible noise during The Force Awakens when the first planet blew up and each time thereafter. The bass still comes out "OK" on other stuff (music), but there's some rattling sounds lingering afterwards. I don't know if this is the voice coil or the rubber surround or something came loose. I'll have to take them apart to find out (oh joy). I supply the ribbons each with about 180 watts Class A/AB Yamaha power amp into 4 Ohms and the bass drivers get 350 watts per channel from a TFM-35x Carver Amp. They could put out 114dB in testing. But you never know if a clip could damage an older driver.

I remember reading a long time ago some replacement drivers that could be used instead if you can't find the originals and even the originals were supplied by someone else to Carver. Unfortunately, that was a LONG time ago and I have no recollection what that information was. Anyone know offhand?

Edit: I've seen some threads that suggest the Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" driver, but it's no longer made either. I've been looking at this one (Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm) as a possible replacement, although I'm thinking I should change both to match if I go ahead with it (I'm using a large unused Energy center channel speaker for the moment on the bass amplifier; it doesn't match or play as low, but it's better than nothing in the mean time).

Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 5-25-19)

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post #22 of 23 Old 04-15-2019, 07:18 PM
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I just ordered a second TFM-35x (used but in great shape) to replace my now 32+ year old Yamaha M-45 (350W into 4 with the 35x instead of 170W into 4 on the M45; I was already using a 35x on the woofers). I hit the protection circuit a few times lately on the M-45. I'm not sure if I was just asking too much of the amp or the electrolytics or something else are starting to go (don't remember tripping them at my old house with the same setup in a larger room, but then the ribbons are 24 years old now (have been tightened twice). I have an Audio-X-Stream active crossover for them (supposed to give the equivalent of 90dB sensitivity instead of 87dB when used instead of the old passive crossovers). I believe I tripped the amp at 98dB A-weighted, which seemed kind of low even for 170W amp (should only need around 3 Watts @ 1 meter. At 9-10 feet, maybe 10-15 watts, hence I suspect the M-45 is starting to go funky. In any case, that's as loud as I normally play them A-weighted for peaks, really so another 3dB of headroom regardless should do the trick, I think.

Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 5-25-19)
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post #23 of 23 Old 05-10-2019, 03:19 PM
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I don't know how great of shape that new TFM-35x was (had an issue with the left channel muting within a day), but this is how dual TFM-35x amps looked set up with the AL-III speakers here.
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Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 5-25-19)
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