Hi,

I am trying to run the YPAO with my GE tritons, Is any recommendation/considerations for YPAO? I heard as per Sandy GE speakers doesnot like audyssey.

Appreciate your comments.

Sam

Hi, Just to clarify: There is no particular issue with GoldenEar speakers not liking Audyssey, YPAO, etc. It is just in our experience with these room correction systems, with our speakers, as well as others, we are not big fans. Our suggestion is to try with and without, then decide how you like it best. Many choose without. One point regarding Audyssey, is that apparently, once you switch it on, if you switch it off some aspects are still on, like dynamic bass expansion, and you have to go in separately to turn it off. All the Best, Sandy

I personally did not like Audyssey with my Denon X4000 with the GoldenEar speakers. However, I notice a nice improvement in sound with Audyssey turned on using a Marantz 8802A.

Now I'm not trying to compare the X4000 to the 8802A, that's not a fair comparison. I'm simply stating that the X4000 sounded better without vs the X4000 with and the 8802A sounds better with rather than without. Does that make sense?

Getting sub levels right can be tricky with Audyssey, it tends to set them low.

It is very easy to turn Audyssey on and off, if you have an iPhone or iPad I'd recommend the DeRemote app, it has Audyssey settings built right into it and adjusting things on the fly is a breeze.

So if you don't mind spending 20-30 minutes of your time to whip out the Audyssey mic and calibrate your system, it can't hurt to try things out.

Best of luck!

You should at least run the auto-calibration to get the individual speaker level and distances correct with respect to the Main Listening Position (MLP). This will time align and ensure the same Sound Pressure Level (SPL) is reached at the MLP.

There are several options to engage/dis-engage Audyssey after the auto-calibration.

One option is bypass of the front left and right speakers.

Another is to turn off Audyssey all together.

As many have said on this thread and elsewhere, it is a personal preference if one likes the Audyssey "house" sound or not.

There are other Room EQualization (REQ) systems on the market that does a similar job as Audyssey. It's just that your receiver has this on-board and so it's a free option for you.

My Triton's sound wonderful with Anthem ARC turned on. I had a Denon X400 too and I never liked the sound of Audissey with it. Thin bass and did not sound that great. Not so with the Anthem. Balances perfectly with my two SVS subs.

Anyone have experience with Yamaha YPAO?

Thanks for clarification Sandy.

While I don't own the Tritons I covet, yet, I have taken this challenge to disable Audyssey. After years of spending hundreds; possibly well over a thousand dollars for preamps and cartridges for my vintage turntables, I have finally eliminated the harsh sibilance problem I was experiencing with my SVS Ultra bookshelf mains. Comparing now, Audyssey had my set-up so harsh and thin, I can't believe I ever "enjoyed" it like that. I struggled for quite some time to get any response out of my SVS sealed 12" sub, that I think I finally gave up. I had gotten into the habit of blaming the recording or mastering, now I have to evaluate all over again.

Has anyone gone from triton 7 left and right and super center xl to triton 5 with super center xxl for home theater? I have the upgrade bug.

I also am curious how much difference there is between the 7's and 5's. Hard to tell at the dealer. I have two subs and don't really care to go into active type speakers. Mainly wonder about mid and imaging differences.

Quick question. I have Triton 5s and the XL center. What do you all use to clean/polish the top cap and base that is glossy black. I want to make sure I don't get swirls or scratches.

Thanks.

Clean microfiber cloths!

Anybody have any experience use with Triton 7 as surround speakers? Was this going to overkill for I use surround speakers??

I am planning to upgrade front speakers as Triton 3, replace my 7 as surrounds.

Sam

Hi, They are both similar in concept. Obviously, the Five is larger, more dynamic with more extended low frequency response. The Five also has the new balanced crossover design that we developed for the One. Also, polypropylene capacitors. It is more transparent, with more detail and better imaging. All the Best, Sandy

I used to think full-range speakers would be overkill, but then I just recently watched 300: Rise of an Empire. Notwithstanding its (IMO) many glaring faults, it was the first movie I can recall seeing with a full-range back channel. My SuperSat 3s simply couldn't keep up.

Does this mean I'm gonna run down to the dealer and pick up my own set of 7s? Not really. I watch 2-3 movies a week on my rig, and this is the very first one that I've encountered like this. My SS3s are easily the best rear surrounds I've ever had with all other programming.

But it does change what my hypothetical ideal home theater will look like, should I ever manage to build one.

So while I think towers for surrounds are overkill for most applications, if you already have them on hand then why not? That's what I'd do, especially now.

Thank You.

Yes, that what I thought.. I noticed some of ACS members using Triton 2/1 along with triton 7 as surrounds, where as I am planning use Triton3 as front stage along with Triton 7 as surrounds .. Not sure it will overkill or gets best sounding.

If you have the space there is no such thing as overkill. Seriously full range is always better

Sandy, may I ask if there's any future plan to release a Triton Seven+ ?
Sorry if this has been asked before in previous posts, I'm short on reading time.

I have a small room (pretty much square - 11.5 by 11.5 feet) and would love to get the smallest floorstanders available (many already told be even the Sevens are overkill), but the internal modifications in the Triton Fives sound a lot more appealing (balanced crossover, polypropylene capacitors, etc).

To quote Ediddy above, "If you have the space there is no such thing as overkill. Seriously full range is always better."

I had a pair of Triton 3s in a room that same size and they sounded beautifully. Depending on your movie tastes/bass needs, you may even need to add a subwoofer if you went with the Triton Seven. They definitely aren't overkill, and if you plan on moving to a larger space eventually you'll be glad you bought the biggest and best speakers you could.

In fact, after I moved the speakers out of the bedroom I was in and into a living room, I actually wish I would have bought the Triton 2s instead

Hi,

Sorry, if this question already been answered.

What are the improvements from 2/2 and 2/3 Plus??

Sam

http://www.goldenear.com/images/revi...SV_Feb2016.pdf

Here is the press release:

PRESS RELEASE_GoldenEar March 2016 New Second Gen Tritons-2.pdf (232.7 KB)

Attached Files

File Type: pdf

PRESS RELEASE_GoldenEar March 2016 New Second Gen Tritons-2.pdf (232.7 KB, 118 views)

Hi, There are no plans for a + upgrade to the Triton Seven. The Seven would work well, as would the Five. Also, you might consider the new Three+. This is specifically engineered to, in a small room, sound like the Triton One does in a large room. Having the level control on the powered bass section gives you a lot of flexibility in terms of placement (you can place the speakers close to the rear wall and also tune the bass down for a small room. It is physically small as well. All the Best, Sandy

Last night while watching a bass heavy movie, I noticed vibrating/rattling sounds coming from my SuperSat 50C center speaker. At first, I thought one of the planar radiators has blown. But fortunately, upon opening the speaker, I found a long rubber strip previously taped to inner backside of the speaker cabinet has come loose and was the cause of the rattling sound whenever heavy bass was produced.

My question is, what kind of adhesive should I use on the rubber to glue the rubber strip back to the cabinet?

Thanks

Thanks.

I was offered some discount on Triton2s, is there any sound difference from 2 to 2plus? I am planning to save some money going with 2s if there is no much difference in sound?

Any thoughts?

Just a response in regards to Audyssey yes or no.
Here is a REW frequency response sweep of my Triton One's with and without Audyseey. This is in a mostly bare room with bare walls, ceiling beam across the width, open on one side, and a glass back wall so many issues to deal with. Audyssey on is the green trace in my room, it appears Audyssey is better on.

Attached Thumbnails

 

I'm looking at swapping my surrounds out for a pair of GE Triton series and could use some advice.

My current 7.2.4 setup is :
Fronts - Triton One's
Center - Supercentre XXL
Surrounds - Polk RTi A9
Rear - Polk RTi A1
Height TF & TR - Polk OWM5 x 4
Subs A&B - Klipsch R-115SW x 2

Room is MultiUse, 6k cubic feet. 23.5 long x 14.5 wide open on one side to another slightly shorter room which is open again on side to a slightly shorter room.
Projector and 120" screen used 95% for movies and 5% for music.

Bass setup is Subs are one on front wall, and one placed nearfield behind couch. Triton Ones are currently setup with speaker wires only, no LFE, set to Large so they get all the redirected Bass from the remaining 9 small speakers.

The A9 Surrounds are quite large physically. So my first thought is to go to Triton 3+ as they are the smallest footprint. My other option is I can get a pair of Triton 2 (original) for about the same price.

I would then have the option of wiring up all 4 Tritons and the 2 external for subs, to reduce room modes and get better bass at more than just the main seat.
Optionally I leave the LFE to the two external, and let the 4 tritons share the redirected bass under the crossover. Would there be any difference in this case using the 2's over the 3's?

Which would best compliment the Triton One's? The new 3+ with crossovers matched to the ones but lesser powered bass, or the original 2's with better powered bass? How does sharing of the redirected bass work when the front two have 3 active drivers and the rear two have only single active drivers?

Agree that the Audyssey green trace looks better. Might want to bump up the bass by +3dB to +6dB on your pre/pro/receiver to give that nice lift in the lower frequencies.

Item in bold refers. When the pre/pro/receiver knows that there are subs in the system (Klipsch R-115SW x 2) the re-directed bass will be sent to the subs rather than the front left/right of the Triton Ones, even though it's been sent to LARGE.

Placement of the bass drivers within the room with respect to the Main Listening Position (MLP) is the key to getting smooth bass and minimizing seat to seat variance. As your front left/right as well as your surrounds are at fixed locations - moving them is not really an option. One can only adjust the volume control (SPL). The only bass drivers that can be moved are the Klipsch R-115SW x 2 subs.

The choice of increasing the number of bass drivers is a personal one, and the Triton 2 will be better than Triton 3+ for the surrounds in terms of low frequency reproduction.

If you do decide to go with the Triton 2 for the surrounds and utilize the bass drivers for low frequency reproduction, then you'll have up to 6 bass drivers to dial in. This is no easy task as four of the six are at fixed locations. An external box such as that offered by MiniDSP 2x4HD with appropriate PEQ filters and delays might be something you might want to consider.

I don't believe that's correct, at least with Pioneer receivers at any rate. Speakers set to LARGE will get a full range signal. Bass management will only happen with speakers set to small.

Recordings with an LFE channel (i.e. movies) may be different. In fact GE testing has revealed some variation in behavior by manufacturer, which is why nowadays they recommend connecting their powered speakers by wire *and* LFE.

IMO you can't really make a blanket statement like this. Read the manual on your particular receiver to see what the various speaker size settings will actually do.

Im unsure how you mean to raise the bass only? This is a graph of a full range speaker with no subs or LFE included in the sweep, just the two fronts. The receiver only lets me raise and lower a speaker or sub over its whole range, not specific to its bass frequencies.

As dscottj states above, (and i've recently learned) this is a false but common misunderstanding. As soon as any speakers are set to Large, only the LFE channels go to subs, and all speakers set to small have their bass frequencies below the crossover redirected to the large speakers. dscottj mentions it may be receiver specific but according to the Moderators on the GE forums, it is the Dolby spec that determines this, so any receiver conforming to Dolby will be this way, which I imagine would be all of them.

I actually have a MiniDSP 2x4 but not the new HD one. (must... resist ...upgrade....itch...) And you make a great point that 6 subs with 4 of them fixed makes things hard to get all working together. I was thinking of just using the single 2x4 with two Y connectors on 2 of its outputs to split the signal to each pair of GE, and the remaining 2 of the outputs going to each external sub which are at different distances from the mlp.

My current problem there is the near field sub and front wall sub are too far apart for the MiniDSP to time sync since the non HD version is limited to 7.2 ms. I can't see any way to split up the 6 subs on the receivers 2 outputs so that audyssey sets the distance correctly. Might have to get the Minidsp HD to make it work.