Originally Posted by HTNUT1975
Ok, the one thing I don't quite understand is how the LFE input would change things in measurements on 2 channel. When you're measuring, are you only measuring the two towers together? Is it set at 2 channel when you measure (instead of 2.1)? If so, the LFE channel wouldn't matter (because no signal would be sent to that input, right?).
Correct, That is the way I had them, set up, Direct for 2 channel music, sent only to the front L and R. With the LFE feed connected the (LFE) signal only triggers in 5.1/7.1. Since I am trying to control the low end in HT the LFE signal made things much worse in HT. The measurement you see in the first thumbnail is only the two R1's measured running on pure speaker wire. Sorry if I am confusing you, so many factors. That's the major reason I wonder if the bass can be tamed since I am running a 20 db hump at 20-40 with just speaker wire.
[quote=HTNUT1975;58186328] Also, you would only need one minidsp 2x4 (because it has two inputs and outputs).
That's nice to know, is the anything like the minidsp with speaker wire outputs, I've never seen such a thing but it seems that would do the trick.
It may end up being the case that the room is just too small, along with its shape (squared-shape room or rectangular?)--I'm not for sure. [Ok—honestly, I don’t believe that—I think there’s a way to fix it, but I unfortunately don’t have access to the room—I do think different electronics may be necessary, however.]
It is a problematic room, I did seek advice as that worried me before purchase. The room is 10 x 21, I have read that a room twice as long as wide is about as bad as a square room and 10 x 21 is close to that.
Originally Posted by HTNUT1975
have access to the room—I do think different electronics may be necessary, however.]
I also don't know much about the calibration system you have (though, I see that it was sold on outlaw audio at one time). What kind of subs are you using with your older system, and what kind of avr/processor are you using? One thing to keep in mind, were you able to tame the 20-40hz region—that may affect the deep null you’re seeing from 40ish to 100ish (because less frequency cancelation possibilities). Another thing to keep in mind, if there’s any vibration with the floor or any rattling, that can affect the measurement (which is something I didn’t realize for quite some time—I kept thinking my measurements from about 100hz to 200 was completely wonky because of the room layout, but it had a lot to do with vibration of the floor).
Outlaw just relabeled it, It was made by Velodyne before they crashed out of the market, it was incorporated internally in their higher end subs.
The sub is a JL F113, The receiver in place now is a Integra 8.8. I'm in the basement so no floor issues to speak of, (Heavy carpet) did have a side wall that resonated a bit (much like your floor) but I fixed that with the SMS-1 by dropping the F113 like a rock at 20 HZ (the room otherwise leaves the curve flat to about 15 HZ through room reinforcement.) This and my old subs were mainly tamed by placement and then a bit of fine tuning with the SMS-1.
I've been able to tame 4 stand alone subs in the room through the same method, location then fine tuning the curve. Powerful subs tend to want to be behind the listener in my room, my first, under 500 watts did well in the front right corner pulled out from the walls a foot or two.
The calibration unit is simple, the traditional way it works is it jacks in of the receiver LFE sub out, then jacks out to the powered sub. So Receiver or pre amp to SMS-1 to powered sub. It then hooks to the TV through a unused input (say AUX) and also the TV monitor and pups the test tones through the sub and mains (or as you would say 2.1 with only the .1 being changed by the unit. Basically you are blending the sub to fit with the mains)
One then switch's to aux,, sets it to stereo, tells the SMS to start generating a test sweeps. The stereo Front's then show on the TV sweep but are not affected by calibration. only the powered sub is, in my case the JL. Then you use the on screen sliders to adjust the Q, Frequency and output level of the powered sub). It's basically a parametric equalizer that can equalize the signal anywhere between 15 and 100 HZ.
Since my R2's are showing a 20-40 HZ 20 db hump with just speaker wires, hooking up the LFE to the R1's cannot remove that hump, the most I could do is jack up the void between 40 and 100 HZ to try to get that area flat but fear that huge increase in input to the R1 subs is not going to be good for the built in amps.
So the question I guess I have for you is what equipment are you thinking (and is there something like the minidsp with speaker wire outs?)
KEEP IN MIND THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN A TIP FOR PEOPLE THAT STILL HAVE A SMS-1(For whatever it worth I have found that using the SMS-1 just to read the room, as it's real time on the TV does help in positioning speakers, it does not affect other speakers but say you want to find the flattest spot for surrounds. Just turn the other speakers off, then turn to all channel stereo) so only the surrounds are active and start moving them while glancing at the change of the curve on the TV and, find the flattest spot, then fire all the speakers back up and do the final adjustment by ear)
I do see as I read through the thread and other sources that this has been a issue for many, I do wonder it any resolved it.
Thanks for all the help so far my friend, i realize there is a wall here unless you can get hands on in my HT room. Don't feel obligated to spend endless hours on this (As my R1's sit in the back of my room unhooked and mocking me every time I enter the room.)
PS: Thought you had a heck of a eye for detail, we used to be in the same profession.