RARE! Time Windows squared! drawn-out story and pics inside! - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 56 Old 08-21-2010, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by newrival View Post

addaitonally ive read that others have had problems producing any quality sound out of them with low wattage. actually on every forum that theyre mentioned, that comment is made and then speculated they are underpowered.

one thread mentions the bottom cabinet as a "bass unit"

there are 2 - 6.5" drivers and 2 - 3" (?) tweeters in each top piece according to one thread. i will do all the confirming i can.

some places say 1999 some say 1983. judging on conditions of these and others, 99 seems highly unlikely

It is in the 80's because DCM never used the square inductors that yours have. In the 90's they were all round! Did you see if all the connection where good and did you check the banana plugs.
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post #32 of 56 Old 08-21-2010, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newrival View Post

addaitonally ive read that others have had problems producing any quality sound out of them with low wattage. actually on every forum that theyre mentioned, that comment is made and then speculated they are underpowered.

one thread mentions the bottom cabinet as a "bass unit"

there are 2 - 6.5" drivers and 2 - 3" (?) tweeters in each top piece according to one thread. i will do all the confirming i can.

some places say 1999 some say 1983. judging on conditions of these and others, 99 seems highly unlikely

You mean 1" tweeter right? Are you measuring the tweeter mount across or just the tweeter?
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post #33 of 56 Old 08-21-2010, 09:04 PM
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Interesting thread, will be following it closely. One thing I don't understand what did you do to get them to work as far as power goes. Was it a mater of pure power (say 100watts to 500watts) suggesting low effiecency or the quality of power? Just trying to improve my knowledge of such things.

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post #34 of 56 Old 08-24-2010, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by newrival View Post

yeah these have 3 dials on the back "tweeter level," "midrange level," and "dispersion"
the 5 on the bottom are label-less unfortunately.

They are similar to the TimeWindow Three. Here is a discription from the TW3 manual.
LL
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post #35 of 56 Old 08-24-2010, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by newrival View Post

AN UPDATE!!!!!
I uncovered a picture of the internals!


At a first glance, the crossover is similar to the TW3. Here a picture to compare.

The TimeWindow Three's also used 3 trimpots (instead of the 5 that are shown in your photo) although they were mounted on the back side near the bottom. Here is a discription of their function and location.
LL
LL
LL
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post #36 of 56 Old 08-24-2010, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamespblues View Post

It is in the 80's because DCM never used the square inductors that yours have. In the 90's they were all round! Did you see if all the connection where good and did you check the banana plugs.

This speaker is probable a forerunner to the TimeWindow Three which would definitely put it in the early eighties. DCM used the square air core inductors in the TimeWindow 1a and Three's I believe up into the late nineties.
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post #37 of 56 Old 08-27-2010, 12:53 PM
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Any updates on the speakers?
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post #38 of 56 Old 09-02-2010, 08:52 PM
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Wow TW^2s! Those were very rare. I’ve seen pics of the bass module without grilles, but I’ve never seen the “sats” naked. This is one of the few DCM speakers that I’m not too familiar with. I believe Jamie is correct; they look like some kind of pre-cursor to the TW3. They use similar woofers; the TW^2s appear to have the same 8” woofers (and dual ports) as the one in the ambient panel of the TW3. The user adjustable pots are the same and the crossover is very similar in design. I’m willing to bet the tweeters are the same as the Threes or 1As. I’d place their era as early 80’s – maybe ‘81 or ‘82.
Being close to 30 years old, the electrolytic caps are probably dried out and need to be replaced. I would seriously consider upgrading the caps to good film caps. They are far more expensive than electrolytics, but they do make a big difference and they last a LOT longer.
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post #39 of 56 Old 09-02-2010, 09:09 PM
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They are so cool!
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post #40 of 56 Old 09-03-2010, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argenco View Post

Being close to 30 years old, the electrolytic caps are probably dried out and need to be replaced. I would seriously consider upgrading the caps to good film caps. They are far more expensive than electrolytics, but they do make a big difference and they last a LOT longer.

Replacing the electrolytics is a definite. While film replacement is preferred, the cost difference is one thing; it's the physical size of the film equivalent of the electrolytic that may make it prohibited. 50 to 100 uF range film caps are huge in comparison and may not fit on your board. Most of the original electrolytics had a 10% tolerance and a 5% dissipation factor. The best replacement source that I found so far is from ERSE. Theirs are listed at 5% tolerance and 3%, 6%, and 10% dissipation factor (the lower being better).

http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/No...lectrolyticAll
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post #41 of 56 Old 09-03-2010, 07:46 AM
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Have you considered these might not be production models and something done as a display, test, or preproduction mock up. Might explain the uniqueness of them.

My review comparisons of Energy RC-70s to Veritas V6.3 https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21199418
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post #42 of 56 Old 09-15-2010, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry Ive been out of state and swamped with work!

so there has been a small update. I've indirectly received info from Steve Eberbach, the designer of these speakers. Apparently he remembers these being 12 Ohm speakers and would help explain the high power demand. Im hoping to hear a little bit more in the future regarding the specs and maybe some backround on them. But now that I'm back I'm going to order some new caps like was recomended. Any recomendations/advice/warnings?

thanks everyone!
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post #43 of 56 Old 09-15-2010, 07:49 PM
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By the crossover in the photo I'm thinking 1983. The controls and terminal strip look like an early 80's era design. The resistors look "old school" also, before flameproof designs were common. If they sound excellent as-is leave them alone !!!
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post #44 of 56 Old 09-23-2010, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by newrival View Post

Sorry Ive been out of state and swamped with work!

...But now that I'm back I'm going to order some new caps like was recomended. Any recomendations/advice/warnings?

thanks everyone!

There are a few options for you. As Jamie pointed out, film caps are much bigger than electrolytics (a 20µF film cap is more than twice the size of a 200µF electrolytic!). You could simply replace your caps with electrolytics and leave it at that or add a bypassing cap, which is a very small value of the electrolytic (often less than 5% of the electrolytic value) in all of the series caps (and maybe the shunt caps, though they're not as critical). This will give you some of the acoustical benefits of film caps without the excessive cost or ridiculous size. When I upgraded my TW3s, I was lucky enough to pick up some of the last BlackGate AC series caps. They are "sort-of" considered electrolytics, though they contain no electrolytic gel and they're only 2-4x bigger than conventional electrolytics. If you can find any that match the values of your caps, I highly recommend them. I replaced all of the large value caps in my Threes with BlackGates and all the smaller values with Sonicaps; they took up a little more space in the cabinet but they brought the speakers into a different league (I also saved some space by replacing the ceramic resistors with Mills). Frequency extension improved quite a bit - especially the bottom end, and PRaT really came to life. It was very costly, but to an audio addict like me, I gotsta have dabest.
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post #45 of 56 Old 08-23-2013, 10:15 PM
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I know this thread is ages old - but . . .

My audio system is decent. Carver M1.5t and the pre-amp - but I'm running it into Cerwin Vega VS-120's for audio [have a HT-885 along with Klipsch center channel and a couple of DCM - 17's for surrounds for theater] but this thread is about Time Windows . . . . its LOUD but its too damn 'bright' - and I have not been able to fix that with an EQ. Its the amp and the speakers - the Vegas rock the room - shake the walls when loud - sound great but pure music - not so much.

So I'm out tooling in my bike one day and see a yard sale and there are these two tall tower like speakers than look suspiciously like they are shaped like TimeWindows

So I stop - and they are. ASking price - $50. They were actually cosmetically restored - I asked the guy about them - and he said his old roommate left them years ago - and he never through them out [!!!!]

I offered him $40 - he took it - I paid the man and said I'd be back in 30 minutes. I go back and get them and he tells me thanks so much, glad he 'got rid of them' because his wife hates them cause they are so big.

They had restored wood and new grilles - I took them home - hooked them up to the 600w per channel, 1200w bridged Carver amp and these speakers sang. OMG - like the angels from heaven - like I remembered listening in friend's house - speakers that I could have afforded in 1980 . Plus - they were fixed up and looked good, too.

Power makes a huge difference here - these speakers need power simply for the headroom
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post #46 of 56 Old 01-02-2016, 07:26 PM
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Jamie,
I am the original owner of a pair of TW1's and also own two pair of 1A's and a pair of 3's. I bought a pair of 1A's to replace my beat-up pair of 1's, and then upgraded to a pair of 3's. My problem is that after about 15 minutes of playing, I noticed a very low and/or no woofer output from one and then both speakers! In the meantime, I went back to listening to my 1A's. One night I put in a disc I got from a friend (A Perfect Circle "Thirteenth Step"), and put it in to play. Having never heard or played it, I had no idea of the bass content, and seconds into the first track, I blew a woofer in each speaker! I had owned my 1's for over 30 years without a problem, and never blew any speaker in my life (I use quality electronics; my first amp/preamp, which I bought when I bought my original 1's, was an Apt 1 and Holman preamp; I later upgraded to Denon POA-4400's and, later, also a pair of 6600's). I finally found a place to have my 3's looked at. They both had bad electronic protection devices which were cutting power to the woofers. It was $15 for the parts and $150 for labor. I got them back and hooked them up last night. Both speakers play fine, but, one losses bass output (woofer electronic protection mode) around 100 watts and the other will play until the cows come home. I have to keep the output lower than I like and can't utilize the potential I am seeking. Still, The biggest difference I have noticed is that much improved low bass response. Also, all of my TW'S have all of their original parts. I have read that the caps should be replaced. The tech said they were fine, but, the speakers are over 30 years old. Also, I had read to replace the caps with polyprops, but the tech told me they are about $30 each. I also saw your reference to ERSE. I could probably replace the caps myself if they aren't too hard to replace, but I would rather have an experienced tech do it. I also want the speakers to play at their best. Besides the caps, what would you recommend I replace? Which caps with what? What about upgrading the drivers to polypropylene (aren't the drivers paper cone?)? so want the speakers to play at their best. Besides the caps, what would you recommend I replace? Which caps with what? What about upgrading the drivers to polypropylene (aren't the drivers paper cone?)?
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post #47 of 56 Old 01-04-2016, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
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Jamie,
I am the original owner of a pair of TW1's and also own two pair of 1A's and a pair of 3's. I bought a pair of 1A's to replace my beat-up pair of 1's, and then upgraded to a pair of 3's. My problem is that after about 15 minutes of playing, I noticed a very low and/or no woofer output from one and then both speakers! In the meantime, I went back to listening to my 1A's. One night I put in a disc I got from a friend (A Perfect Circle "Thirteenth Step"), and put it in to play. Having never heard or played it, I had no idea of the bass content, and seconds into the first track, I blew a woofer in each speaker! I had owned my 1's for over 30 years without a problem, and never blew any speaker in my life (I use quality electronics; my first amp/preamp, which I bought when I bought my original 1's, was an Apt 1 and Holman preamp; I later upgraded to Denon POA-4400's and, later, also a pair of 6600's). I finally found a place to have my 3's looked at. They both had bad electronic protection devices which were cutting power to the woofers. It was $15 for the parts and $150 for labor. I got them back and hooked them up last night. Both speakers play fine, but, one losses bass output (woofer electronic protection mode) around 100 watts and the other will play until the cows come home. I have to keep the output lower than I like and can't utilize the potential I am seeking. Still, The biggest difference I have noticed is that much improved low bass response. Also, all of my TW'S have all of their original parts. I have read that the caps should be replaced. The tech said they were fine, but, the speakers are over 30 years old. Also, I had read to replace the caps with polyprops, but the tech told me they are about $30 each. I also saw your reference to ERSE. I could probably replace the caps myself if they aren't too hard to replace, but I would rather have an experienced tech do it. I also want the speakers to play at their best. Besides the caps, what would you recommend I replace? Which caps with what? What about upgrading the drivers to polypropylene (aren't the drivers paper cone?)? so want the speakers to play at their best. Besides the caps, what would you recommend I replace? Which caps with what? What about upgrading the drivers to polypropylene (aren't the drivers paper cone?)?
I would like to help you but I need a little more information.

"I blew a woofer in each speaker"!

What did you actually damage and how was it dealt with?

"They both had bad electronic protection devices which were cutting power to the woofers.

It was $15 for the parts and $150 for labor."


What was replaced?

"Both speakers play fine, but, one losses bass output (woofer electronic protection mode) around 100 watts."

How did you know you were around 100 watts?
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post #48 of 56 Old 01-10-2016, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post
Those dials might need to be cleaned? if they control the crossover some how they may have dead spots and could be why they needed a little more power to sound good.

What if you mark them and rotate them all the way left then all the way right then back to the sweet spot.

They might get better.

They are a neat design
[QUOTE=Jamie Hauser;40311610]I would like to help you but I need a little more information.

"I blew a woofer in each speaker"!
What did you actually damage and how was it dealt with?

When the bass note hit that blew the woofs, I could hear them fully extending as I jumped up to turn down the volume, I had fairly recently also bought my Sony TA-E9000ES, and it came w/ an aftermarket learning remote that my Pitbull used as a teething toy...not good. I was in the process of getting another remote. I haven't taken the grille cloth off, but both speakers make the same popping sound from the woofs that my 1 makes that has a cat-torn woofer surround.


"They both had bad electronic protection devices which were cutting power to the woofers.

It was $15 for the parts and $150 for labor."


What was replaced?
An electronic protection device on each crossover. I believe they are the white plastic pieces with wire around them and a copper center tube that is in the very corner of the crossover motherboard.

"Both speakers play fine, but, one losses bass output (woofer electronic protection mode) around 100 watts."

How did you know you were around 100 watts?[/QUOTE
This is a guestimate based on my experience with the Dennons and various pairs of TW's. I have pounded on my TW'S from time to time and I know their limits. Depending on the source music (and mainly how much bass; from my experience, with clean electronics, and a lot of power and/or amplifier headroom), the limit is woofer driver excursion. I try to run the volume about 3 dB less then when I hear a woofer getting near it's limit (the Sony volume reads in decibels under 0. I want more bass, specifically to play music from Tool, A7X, FFDP (Five Finger Death Punch), etc, and hence my reason for buying both the TW'S and the 6600's...
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post #49 of 56 Old 01-11-2016, 01:49 PM
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"I blew a woofer in each speaker!"

Let's start with this. You need to do a physical check to assess the damage. This means you need to remove the end caps and enough of the grill cloth to expose the drivers.
This is what you'll see: (First two photo's)

It will be difficult to check with the acoustic lens in place. This is what it looks like if you remove it: (Third photo)

Check the voice coil and suspension for damage. If you have a multimeter, check the ohm ratings on the drivers. If you're not sure how to do any of this, Google it. There's plenty of good information on how to do it.

Next,
"I finally found a place to have my 3's looked at. They both had bad electronic protection devices which were cutting power to the woofers."
What was replaced?
"An electronic protection device on each crossover. I believe they are the white plastic pieces with wire around them and a copper center tube that is in the very corner of the crossover motherboard."

The "electronic protection devices" used with the TW3's are what are called "Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) devices or thermistors".
The "white plastic pieces with wire around the circuit and a copper center tube" are inductors. The two yellow discs are what we are talking about. One (closer to the corner, see last photo) is for the tweeter circuit and the other for the woofer circuit. Did your tech give you the old parts back so you know for sure what he did? You need to know if they are the proper replacements for safety reasons.

"I have read that the caps should be replaced. The tech said they were fine, but, the speakers are over 30 years old."

I would question any tech that thinks that 30 year old electrolytic capacitors are fine. Replace them (they are the large can shaped dark ones) with good quality electrolytics with the same uF, voltage and as close to the same D.F. as the originals. No need to use polys.

As far as the upgrading the drivers, in one word, no. The crossover is designed for the drivers used.

Your work is cut out for you, let us know what you find. Good luck.
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post #50 of 56 Old 01-12-2016, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post
Those dials might need to be cleaned? if they control the crossover some how they may have dead spots and could be why they needed a little more power to sound good.

What if you mark them and rotate them all the way left then all the way right then back to the sweet spot.

They might get better.

They are a neat design
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post
"I blew a woofer in each speaker!"

Let's start with this. You need to do a physical check to assess the damage. This means you need to remove the end caps and enough of the grill cloth to expose the drivers.
This is what you'll see: (First two photo's)

It will be difficult to check with the acoustic lens in place. This is what it looks like if you remove it: (Third photo)

Check the voice coil and suspension for damage. If you have a multimeter, check the ohm ratings on the drivers. If you're not sure how to do any of this, Google it. There's plenty of good information on how to do it.

Next,
"I finally found a place to have my 3's looked at. They both had bad electronic protection devices which were cutting power to the woofers."
What was replaced?
"An electronic protection device on each crossover. I believe they are the white plastic pieces with wire around them and a copper center tube that is in the very corner of the crossover motherboard."

The "electronic protection devices" used with the TW3's are what are called "Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) devices or thermistors".
The "white plastic pieces with wire around the circuit and a copper center tube" are inductors. The two yellow discs are what we are talking about. One (closer to the corner, see last photo) is for the tweeter circuit and the other for the woofer circuit. Did your tech give you the old parts back so you know for sure what he did? You need to know if they are the proper replacements for safety reasons.

"I have read that the caps should be replaced. The tech said they were fine, but, the speakers are over 30 years old."

I would question any tech that thinks that 30 year old electrolytic capacitors are fine. Replace them (they are the large can shaped dark ones) with good quality electrolytics with the same uF, voltage and as close to the same D.F. as the originals. No need to use polys.

As far as the upgrading the drivers, in one word, no. The crossover is designed for the drivers used.

Your work is cut out for you, let us know what you find. Good luck.
Jamie, Thank you for your help so far. Disassembling a TW1/1A is much harder than a 3. The simple reason is thw Is the first pic u posted a pic of the right outboard coaxial woofer/tweeter of a TW3?
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post #51 of 56 Old 01-12-2016, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post
Those dials might need to be cleaned? if they control the crossover some how they may have dead spots and could be why they needed a little more power to sound good.

What if you mark them and rotate them all the way left then all the way right then back to the sweet spot.

They might get better.

They are a neat design
[QUOTE=CadillacPat;40587970]Jamie, Thank you for your help so far. Disassembling a TW1/1A is much harder than a 3, and, I have another pair that play fine. I still believe that if at least one has a bad surround to replace all four at once. They aren't very expensive. As far as the part being a thermistor, isn't that the term for a thermal transistor? As I mentioned, they were $7.47 each, one for each speaker crossover woofer circuit. I see the part you are referring to in the pic you provided of the crossover. These (one on each circuit board) two under $8 parts costed $150 to diagnose and replace?
Aren't the electrolytic caps the light blue, vinyl/plastic coated big ones in the center of the board?...2, 100v 100 microfarid NP (nonpolar?)10 % DF 5%, and 2, 50v 47 microfarrad NP 10% D.P 5%.
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post #52 of 56 Old 01-12-2016, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowerR64 View Post
Those dials might need to be cleaned? if they control the crossover some how they may have dead spots and could be why they needed a little more power to sound good.

What if you mark them and rotate them all the way left then all the way right then back to the sweet spot.

They might get better.

They are a neat design
Quote:
Originally Posted by CadillacPat View Post
Jamie, Thank you for your help so far. Disassembling a TW1/1A is much harder than a 3. The simple reason is thw Is the first pic u posted a pic of the right outboard coaxial woofer/tweeter of a TW3?
[quote=CadillacPat;40591010]
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Originally Posted by CadillacPat View Post
Jamie, Thank you for your help so far. Disassembling a TW1/1A is much harder than a 3, and, I have another pair that play fine. I still believe that if at least one has a bad surround to replace all four at once. They aren't very expensive. As far as the part being a thermistor, isn't that the term for a thermal transistor? As I mentioned, they were $7.47 each, one for each speaker crossover woofer circuit. I see the part you are referring to in the pic you provided of the crossover. These (one on each circuit board) two under $8 parts costed $150 to diagnose and replace?
Aren't the electrolytic caps the light blue, vinyl/plastic coated big ones in the center of the board?...2, 100v 100 microfarad NP (nonpolar?)10 % DF 5%, and 2, 50v 47 microfarad NP 10% D.P 5%.
5
I did a little reading on Wiki about caps and found some interesting info. Look specifically under the heading "Capacitor Types", and the subheading "Dielectric Materials", the fourth paragraph starts "Electrolytic capacitors,,,". After reading the article, I can't see why anyone would use such parts in good speakers, especially when it appears there are only four, and, are parts that by their design go bad, but wouldn't have cost much more to put in initially when used in quantity like the original ones. Also, I am now wondering if my problem is not due to the thermistors for the woofers, but instead the increased resistance of capacitors going bad causing the thermistor to seem to come in too early. It is my understanding that crossover, including the thermistor and capacitors, and the the woofer drivers are all wired in series.. The increased resistance might be enough in the one speaker to trigger the thermistor to cut power? Which would make the problem to be caused by capacitors going good bad, but not bad yet, and make replacing the thermistor a temporary bandaid for the problem?
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post #53 of 56 Old 01-13-2016, 11:31 AM
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[quote=CadillacPat;40591010]
Quote:
Originally Posted by CadillacPat View Post
Jamie, Thank you for your help so far. Disassembling a TW1/1A is much harder than a 3, and, I have another pair that play fine. I still believe that if at least one has a bad surround to replace all four at once. They aren't very expensive. As far as the part being a thermistor, isn't that the term for a thermal transistor? As I mentioned, they were $7.47 each, one for each speaker crossover woofer circuit. I see the part you are referring to in the pic you provided of the crossover. These (one on each circuit board) two under $8 parts costed $150 to diagnose and replace?
Aren't the electrolytic caps the light blue, vinyl/plastic coated big ones in the center of the board?...2, 100v 100 microfarid NP (nonpolar?)10 % DF 5%, and 2, 50v 47 microfarrad NP 10% D.P 5%.
See this article for a good description of the different types of speaker protection. The typed used in the TW3's are under the heading "PTC Devices".

https://www.trueaudio.com/st_prot1.htm

http://www.parts-express.com/catalog...log-Pg-156.pdf

You would have to check the markings on the one's your tech took out to see what their values were. You really need to know what he replace them with.

The "Speaker Circuit Breakers" shown underneath are similar to what are used in the majority on the later DCM line.

You're correct on which ones are the electrolytic caps, they are actually dark blue in person. On finding suitable replacements Steve E. stressed the point of keeping the D.P. (dissipation factor) at 5% or lower if you can find them.

These will work:

http://www.parts-express.com/47uf-10...citor--027-352

http://www.parts-express.com/100uf-1...citor--027-360

Here are the ERSE:

http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/No...10C-05-47-0-PB

http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/No...-100-0-PB-BLUE

Erse use to offer a 5% D.F. electrolytic but it looks like the best they have is 6% D.F.

You also want to look at Bennic.

Last edited by Jamie Hauser; 01-18-2016 at 04:24 PM.
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post #54 of 56 Old 01-18-2016, 01:43 PM
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Jamie,
Thanks for your help. I can't find your link for speaker protection devices.
As far as the PTC's that the tech installed, they are part number FST6431-705. The one speaker works fine so I don't think that is the problem. I took the speaker back to have it looked at again. As before, I only brought him the one speaker and the bottom/crossover for the other. I just spoke with the tech, and he suggested I bring him the other cabinet also as it might be a driver (he mentioned that the speaker has a fairly complex crossover and pot/adjustment array). Do you have or know where I can get a schematic? I also checked into caps. ERSE has a high-end line of metalized poly caps. They are $27.01 each for the (2) 100 microfarad caps and $10.99 each for the (2) 47 microfarad caps, in each speaker. I am also wondering if it would be worth it to replace the caps in both pairs of my 1a's. The 1a's have (4) 47 microfarad caps in each. I don't plan on buy any other speakers for a while and want them to sound as good as they can.
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post #55 of 56 Old 01-18-2016, 04:48 PM
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I fixed the problem with the "speaker protection devices" link.

I can't find any information on the part number FST6431-705. You still need to verify what he used.

As far as using the "metalized poly caps" to replace the large value electrolytics, it's not worth it in my opinion.

I would also change the electrolytics in the TW1a's if they're still the original.

Have you looked at this thread?

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-spe...-eberbach.html

A lot of what you've been asking has been discussed there.

Here's a copy of the crossover schematic that I drew up:
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post #56 of 56 Old 06-24-2016, 07:34 AM
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I know this is an old thread but a im looking into buying a set of TW^2 from a local place and they are offering $700 is that a good deal or no? What should I offer them to make it a good deal
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