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post #2881 of 3543 Old 07-01-2019, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by TommyDeVito View Post
I tried using the 80 hz crossover on the back of my VTF-3 MK5. I wasn't getting the same output. It's like it muted the sub somewhat in my room. Went back to what Dr. Hsu recommended post Audyssey. I think this is very dependent on each person's ears and their room in general. I've literally dialed my sub in by hand with the gain on the sub and the db in the AVR. Mine is dialed in until I add the 2nd one.



I'm also no fan of Audyssey sans distance and initial setup. It put my speakers to large (a no-no to me), crossed my 580's at like 40 or 60 hz (I forget which), crossed my surrounds and rears, and Atmos speakers incorrectly and I raised the db on my surrounds and rears to even them all out as Audyssey set them each differently. Good tool but not great, at least not to me.
Yeah Audessey sucks the life out of my system,I think the better your speakers are the less you need it,unless you have a really tough room to deal with sound wise. The Cascading Xover works better for some systems than others,at least you tried something new to better your sound. You never know until you try it out.

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post #2882 of 3543 Old 07-02-2019, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by skypop View Post
Yeah Audessey sucks the life out of my system,I think the better your speakers are the less you need it,unless you have a really tough room to deal with sound wise. The Cascading Xover works better for some systems than others,at least you tried something new to better your sound. You never know until you try it out.

Yep.


I think many want to use Audyssey because the mfr supplies it and treat what it does as gospel. Crossover points are well known and how Audyssey manages to F that up every time I run it is hilarious. I like it for distances (saves me from running a tape measure all over the room) and it seems to level the speakers half way decent but many have to correct that changing the db on the center channel, or in my case the surrounds/rears. And it couldn't dial a sub in to save its' life. And room correction is done with acoustic treatment imo. It's a good starting point and that's about all it is to me. So I agree with you and can understand how it would suck the life out of people's systems. It certainly isn't the holy grail in HT/Audio. I view it as a distance calculator and a generic starting point. Although when I have time I'll measure everything myself and see if I find additional faults.
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post #2883 of 3543 Old 07-06-2019, 05:07 PM
 
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so now after going through 10 or so pairs of speakers and now have the 530s and 520center, im pretty sure im done upgrading. at least for a couple of years.
setup includes a denon x3300, hsu vtf2-mk5 and 210 surrounds. am finally completely satisfied.



the hobby seems to have gotten boring for me. now what do i do
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post #2884 of 3543 Old 07-06-2019, 08:14 PM
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Folks - I have the Denon 4400h powering my JBLs. The Denon is overheating. So I was recommended to buy the following which I have done AC Infinity MULTIFAN S7, Quiet Dual 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLV4BWC..._5mwiDb42HSDHG

The receiver runs cold now. I have plugged it into the USB slot on the receiver. However it does not automatically turn off when receiver is off. How do I ensure it starts and stops in sync with the receiver? Else I need to do manually.

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post #2885 of 3543 Old 07-06-2019, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mariogonzalezzz View Post
are you serious?
i have those same fans on my denon x3300
you must do it manually. these are $20 fans

or you can spend $100 on fans with auto on/off feature.
or plug the fans into some other usb slow close by.
just wow


Lol


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post #2886 of 3543 Old 07-06-2019, 09:23 PM
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[quote=genaccmiller;58266846]Folks - I have the Denon 4400h powering my JBLs. The Denon is overheating. So I was recommended to buy the following which I have done AC Infinity MULTIFAN S7, Quiet Dual 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLV4BWC..._5mwiDb42HSDHG

The receiver runs cold now. I have plugged it into the USB slot on the receiver. However it does not automatically turn off when receiver is off. How do I ensure it starts and stops in sync with the receiver? Else I need to do manually.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk[/quote @mariogonzalezzz everyone's situation is different (perhaps that's why your message seems deleted). I am not at home all day. I have a 2 year old and a 5 year old. I have the setup temporarily in my family room until my basement is finished at which point in time I will be the only one using av equipment. Until then I can't ask them to switch on and off when they watch their cartoons on TV.

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post #2887 of 3543 Old 07-06-2019, 09:41 PM
 
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[quote=genaccmiller;58267008]
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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Folks - I have the Denon 4400h powering my JBLs. The Denon is overheating. So I was recommended to buy the following which I have done AC Infinity MULTIFAN S7, Quiet Dual 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLV4BWC..._5mwiDb42HSDHG

The receiver runs cold now. I have plugged it into the USB slot on the receiver. However it does not automatically turn off when receiver is off. How do I ensure it starts and stops in sync with the receiver? Else I need to do manually.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk[/quote @mariogonzalezzz everyone's situation is different (perhaps that's why your message seems deleted). I am not at home all day. I have a 2 year old and a 5 year old. I have the setup temporarily in my family room until my basement is finished at which point in time I will be the only one using av equipment. Until then I can't ask them to switch on and off when they watch their cartoons on TV.

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do your homework
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post #2888 of 3543 Old 07-06-2019, 09:43 PM
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[quote=mariogonzalezzz;58267040]
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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post


do your homework
You can stop responding.

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post #2889 of 3543 Old 07-07-2019, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
everyone's situation is different (perhaps that's why your message seems deleted). I am not at home all day. I have a 2 year old and a 5 year old. I have the setup temporarily in my family room until my basement is finished at which point in time I will be the only one using av equipment. Until then I can't ask them to switch on and off when they watch their cartoons on TV.

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Fair enough. I have a 3 and 5 year old so I can empathize. Go return those fans and buy these instead:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F360590577966

They’re more expensive but has a thermal sensor that turns on/off the fans. Set it and forget it.
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post #2890 of 3543 Old 07-07-2019, 08:23 AM
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[quote=genaccmiller;58267008]
Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Folks - I have the Denon 4400h powering my JBLs. The Denon is overheating. So I was recommended to buy the following which I have done AC Infinity MULTIFAN S7, Quiet Dual 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLV4BWC..._5mwiDb42HSDHG

The receiver runs cold now. I have plugged it into the USB slot on the receiver. However it does not automatically turn off when receiver is off. How do I ensure it starts and stops in sync with the receiver? Else I need to do manually.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk[/quote @mariogonzalezzz everyone's situation is different (perhaps that's why your message seems deleted). I am not at home all day. I have a 2 year old and a 5 year old. I have the setup temporarily in my family room until my basement is finished at which point in time I will be the only one using av equipment. Until then I can't ask them to switch on and off when they watch their cartoons on TV.

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[email protected]@k in your AVR owners manual. Or find the The AVR model owners thread on AVS. Most modern day HDMI AVR’s have HDMI pass through. When the AVR is off. They will pass thru the audio and video to the TV when HDMI pass through is turned on for that input/s.

I wouldn’t recommend playing the audio from kiddie cartoons thru your JBLS. With a 2 and 5 year old at the volume control.

If your AVR has HDMI pass thru. The audio will play thru your TV speakers. No need to turn on the AVR.

Good luck.

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post #2891 of 3543 Old 07-07-2019, 10:58 AM
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[quote=LNEWoLF;58267990]
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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post



[email protected]@k in your AVR owners manual. Or find the The AVR model owners thread on AVS. Most modern day HDMI AVR’s have HDMI pass through. When the AVR is off. They will pass thru the audio and video to the TV when HDMI pass through is turned on for that input/s.



I wouldn’t recommend playing the audio from kiddie cartoons thru your JBLS. With a 2 and 5 year old at the volume control.



If your AVR has HDMI pass thru. The audio will play thru your TV speakers. No need to turn on the AVR.



Good luck.
Avr is connected to tv. Whenever I turn on TV avr also comes on.

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post #2892 of 3543 Old 07-07-2019, 11:18 AM
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[quote=genaccmiller;58267008]
Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Folks - I have the Denon 4400h powering my JBLs. The Denon is overheating. So I was recommended to buy the following which I have done AC Infinity MULTIFAN S7, Quiet Dual 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLV4BWC..._5mwiDb42HSDHG

The receiver runs cold now. I have plugged it into the USB slot on the receiver. However it does not automatically turn off when receiver is off. How do I ensure it starts and stops in sync with the receiver? Else I need to do manually.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk[/quote @mariogonzalezzz everyone's situation is different (perhaps that's why your message seems deleted). I am not at home all day. I have a 2 year old and a 5 year old. I have the setup temporarily in my family room until my basement is finished at which point in time I will be the only one using av equipment. Until then I can't ask them to switch on and off when they watch their cartoons on TV.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
I have the same AC infinity 120mm dual fans to cool my x4400 and this works very well keeping the AVR cool with the burden of 590s.

You can use the following thermal switch which will turn on and off the fans when the temp reaches above your set limit.
https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-C...%2C166&sr=1-11

Other option is what I am using but it is more involved but similar result to keep the AVR cool.
I am using a dual outlet smart plug which has the capability to measure current drawn through its 2 outlets. I have plugged in 4400 into outlet 1 and set it up to turn on outlet 2 (plugged in the 120mm fans here) when outlet 1 draws current above 150mA. 4400 draws above 150mA when turned ON and so outlet 2 turns ON when AVR is switched on. When AVR is standby the outlet 1 drops below 150mA and also shuts down outlet 2. You will have to set up this logic into the plug via the app they suggest. I know is it will be a little tricky for some but works well for me.
Here is the plug I have used but you can use similar plug that has dual fans with current measurement capability.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps.

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post #2893 of 3543 Old 07-07-2019, 11:40 AM
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[quote=iafzal;58268604]
Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post



I have the same AC infinity 120mm dual fans to cool my x4400 and this works very well keeping the AVR cool with the burden of 590s.



You can use the following thermal switch which will turn on and off the fans when the temp reaches above your set limit.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-C...%2C166&sr=1-11



I am using a different setup but similar result and that is turn on fan when AVR is on and off when AVR is off.

I am using a dual port smart plug which has the capability to measure current drawn through its outlets. I have plugged in 4400 into outlet 1 and set it up to turn on outlet 2 (plugged in the 120mm fans here) when outlet 1 draws current above 150mA. 4400 draws above 150mA when turned on and so outlet 2 is powered when AVR is switched on. When AVR is standby the outlet 1 drops below 150mA and also shuts down outlet 2. You will have to set up this logic into the plug via the app they suggest. I know is it will be a little tricky for some but works well for me.

Here is the plug I have used but you can use similar plug that has dual fans with current measurement capability.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1





Hope this helps.
There are a lot of steps. Someone suggested a fan from eBay which had a thermal sensor.

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post #2894 of 3543 Old 07-07-2019, 05:26 PM
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[quote=iafzal;58268604]
Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post



I have the same AC infinity 120mm dual fans to cool my x4400 and this works very well keeping the AVR cool with the burden of 590s.



You can use the following thermal switch which will turn on and off the fans when the temp reaches above your set limit.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-C...%2C166&sr=1-11



Other option is what I am using but it is more involved but similar result to keep the AVR cool.

I am using a dual outlet smart plug which has the capability to measure current drawn through its 2 outlets. I have plugged in 4400 into outlet 1 and set it up to turn on outlet 2 (plugged in the 120mm fans here) when outlet 1 draws current above 150mA. 4400 draws above 150mA when turned ON and so outlet 2 turns ON when AVR is switched on. When AVR is standby the outlet 1 drops below 150mA and also shuts down outlet 2. You will have to set up this logic into the plug via the app they suggest. I know is it will be a little tricky for some but works well for me.

Here is the plug I have used but you can use similar plug that has dual fans with current measurement capability.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Hope this helps.
I just ordered the thermal controller link you provided which will work with the infinity fan.

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post #2895 of 3543 Old 07-08-2019, 12:50 PM
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Studio 580 back on sale. Link below. This morning I woke up to an alert from JBl that 580s were back on sale for $329.95. I was eager to place the order but found on the Harman website that it was $799.95. I had two 20% off coupons from JBL but they could only be used on Harman. So, I could not buy the product at Harman with the discount code. Since morning I have been persistent in contacting Harman who has now updated the website to have the price match JBL. I was then able to apply the coupons and order two units.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/122-g...l#post58272156
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post #2896 of 3543 Old 07-09-2019, 06:07 AM
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I am waiting for 590 to go on sale. Hope they will have the sale soon.


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post #2897 of 3543 Old 07-09-2019, 03:39 PM
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Bought the 590s as the employee discount was too hard to pass up, they cost 1/3 of the Ascend Sierra 2s that I was leaning towards. Paired them with an Outlaw RR2160 receiver. Had an SVS SB2000 that was mated with the Polk LSiM703s that the JBLs replaced, the sub is not needed with the JBLs. After breaking the JBLs in for a few weeks, these might be with me for life. The soundstage is incredible and honestly hearing detail that I've never heard before. My wife and I spend most nights listening to music now rather than TV or movies. I think a lot of people overlook these speakers...I can tell you they have sold more since I've had guests listen to them.
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post #2898 of 3543 Old 07-09-2019, 07:39 PM
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[quote=genaccmiller;58269624]
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Originally Posted by iafzal View Post
I just ordered the thermal controller link you provided which will work with the infinity fan.

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Post how it works out for you once installed.

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I just made an odd discovery today with my 530s/520c (that I've been troubleshooting for over a month now because I'm determined to get these things to work for me the way they seem to work for everyone else). I complained before about the 530s being almost all treble & causing my ears to literally twitch/spasm even at moderate listening volume. Well today for the first time I tried listening to them naked, without my sub on. I have no idea why or how, but suddenly they sound AMAZING and produce balanced midrange and impressively deep bass of their own which was not the case not before. Twice I had to double check to make sure I'd actually turned my sub off. I've listened to them all day long today--and LOUD--with zero fatigue, zero eardrum issues and no reaching for the volume down button (which I was constantly doing before). It's literally like I'm listening to a completely different pair of speakers--the speakers everyone's been talking about on here all this time! But I still cannot figure out why simply having my subwoofer turned on would strip the mids and bass out of the 530s??? I had the crossover set at 100hz (which I also played with both higher and lower and never noticed any audible difference either way).

So now I'm just trying to figure out how I can add a sub back in and not lose the midrange and bass from these speakers for whatever reason? I'm 95% happy with them without the sub, but they could use just a little bit more low end for movies and a few deeper-hitting songs. I'm keeping them no matter what because I can now see their full potential, but I'd really love to solve this puzzle and get them up to 100%.
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post #2900 of 3543 Old 07-09-2019, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papatoony2 View Post
I just made an odd discovery today with my 530s/520c (that I've been troubleshooting for over a month now because I'm determined to get these things to work for me the way they seem to work for everyone else). I complained before about the 530s being almost all treble & causing my ears to literally twitch/spasm even at moderate listening volume. Well today for the first time I tried listening to them naked, without my sub on. I have no idea why or how, but suddenly they sound AMAZING and produce balanced midrange and impressively deep bass of their own which was not the case not before. Twice I had to double check to make sure I'd actually turned my sub off. I've listened to them all day long today--and LOUD--with zero fatigue, zero eardrum issues and no reaching for the volume down button (which I was constantly doing before). It's literally like I'm listening to a completely different pair of speakers--the speakers everyone's been talking about on here all this time! But I still cannot figure out why simply having my subwoofer turned on would strip the mids and bass out of the 530s??? I had the crossover set at 100hz (which I also played with both higher and lower and never noticed any audible difference either way).



So now I'm just trying to figure out how I can add a sub back in and not lose the midrange and bass from these speakers for whatever reason? I'm 95% happy with them without the sub, but they could use just a little bit more low end for movies and a few deeper-hitting songs. I'm keeping them no matter what because I can now see their full potential, but I'd really love to solve this puzzle and get them up to 100%.
So you don't need a sub if for instance you had three 590s and two 580s?

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post #2901 of 3543 Old 07-09-2019, 11:36 PM
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So you don't need a sub if for instance you had three 590s and two 580s?
Are you asking me, or telling me to buy 580s/590s? Because I'm actually on JBL.com right now salivating over that 580 sale price. I'm still not sure 40hz is low enough though (assuming they even actually go that low). That's only 5hz lower than my 530s go. The 580s do have two woofers each though...would that somehow deepen the bass further? I've never owned a loudspeaker with two woofers. And my poor AVR--I have to wonder how much more stress I'm putting it under driving all of these woofers now vs. having my sub do all the work as it's always been accustomed to. Can a 100-watt-per-channel Harman Kardon AVR 1700 even run (2) 530s, (2) 580s and a 520c without blowing up?
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post #2902 of 3543 Old 07-09-2019, 11:38 PM
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So now I'm just trying to figure out how I can add a sub back in and not lose the midrange and bass from these speakers for whatever reason

sounds like the sub is out of phase with the speakers. the sub should have a phase control to fix this. turn it until the sounds is at it loudest. it can also be positioning.
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post #2903 of 3543 Old 07-09-2019, 11:45 PM
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I've never owned a loudspeaker with two woofers. And my poor AVR--I have to wonder how much more stress I'm putting it under driving all of these woofers now vs. having my sub do all the work as it's always been accustomed to. Can a 100-watt-per-channel Harman Kardon AVR 1700 even run (2) 530s, (2) 580s and a 520c without blowing up?

The bigger speaker will require LESS power for a given loudness as it is more efficient.
two woofers increases loudness 3 Db; and doubles the woofer surface area effectively turning say a 6-1/2" speaker into the equivalent of a 8" speaker in terms of power handling.

The bigger speaker can handle more power combined with being more efficient means it will go probably up to twice as loud. But, at the SAME power will be louder than the bookshelf.

Also, you still should run a subwoofer. -6Db at 40Hz is fine for most music but you will be disappointed with movies. Unless the sub is underpowered for the room. Both speakers are design to cross over at 80Hz but be somewhat useable without a sub,
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post #2904 of 3543 Old 07-10-2019, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by papatoony2 View Post
Are you asking me, or telling me to buy 580s/590s? Because I'm actually on JBL.com right now salivating over that 580 sale price. I'm still not sure 40hz is low enough though (assuming they even actually go that low). That's only 5hz lower than my 530s go. The 580s do have two woofers each though...would that somehow deepen the bass further? I've never owned a loudspeaker with two woofers. And my poor AVR--I have to wonder how much more stress I'm putting it under driving all of these woofers now vs. having my sub do all the work as it's always been accustomed to. Can a 100-watt-per-channel Harman Kardon AVR 1700 even run (2) 530s, (2) 580s and a 520c without blowing up?
That's a decision for you but buying two 580s at $520 was sweet.

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post #2905 of 3543 Old 07-10-2019, 05:39 AM
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My set up - three 590s in the front. Two 580s in the back
Subwoofer - may not need it given the speakers above
Receiver - Denon 4400h

Will the receiver above be able to power the speakers or is it too much of a load on the receiver? Did I buy the wrong receiver for this set up? What alternatives are there to ensure receiver is not damaged? If getting an amp is the solution, then what is the purpose of the receiver?

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sounds like the sub is out of phase with the speakers. the sub should have a phase control to fix this. turn it until the sounds is at it loudest. it can also be positioning.
I played around with the phase and noticed no difference. I actually don't think it's the subwoofer itself that is stripping the mid/lows out of the 530s, I think it's something within the receiver as I can turn the problem on and off by simply switching sub mode on/off within the AVR without actually even powering on my sub. It's like the instant I turn sub mode to 'on' my 530s become nothing but treble--and pretty annoying/harsh treble at that. Why would the AVR do that? It's supposed to let the 530/520c do their thing and just send any audio frequencies that are below my set 100hz crossover down to the sub, no? I'm losing WAY more frequencies than that for some reason (and they're not being sent to the sub, as I don't hear any dialogue coming from my sub). Maybe someone earlier in this thread was right, I need a new AVR but I never had this problem with my previous speakers...they worked with the same AVR and same subwoofer flawlessly for years. The ONLY difference I can think of is that those were 8ohms and the JBLs are 6ohms. I'm still using a pair of my old 8ohm speakers as surrounds, so I wonder if mis-matching them is making things wonky? But even that doesn't make sense, because I got everything sounding awesome yesterday even with the mis-matched speakers by simply turning sub mode off.
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post #2907 of 3543 Old 07-10-2019, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by papatoony2 View Post
I played around with the phase and noticed no difference. I actually don't think it's the subwoofer itself that is stripping the mid/lows out of the 530s, I think it's something within the receiver as I can turn the problem on and off by simply switching sub mode on/off within the AVR without actually even powering on my sub. It's like the instant I turn sub mode to 'on' my 530s become nothing but treble--and pretty annoying/harsh treble at that. Why would the AVR do that? It's supposed to let the 530/520c do their thing and just send any audio frequencies that are below my set 100hz crossover down to the sub, no? I'm losing WAY more frequencies than that for some reason (and they're not being sent to the sub, as I don't hear any dialogue coming from my sub). Maybe someone earlier in this thread was right, I need a new AVR but I never had this problem with my previous speakers...they worked with the same AVR and same subwoofer flawlessly for years. The ONLY difference I can think of is that those were 8ohms and the JBLs are 6ohms. I'm still using a pair of my old 8ohm speakers as surrounds, so I wonder if mis-matching them is making things wonky? But even that doesn't make sense, because I got everything sounding awesome yesterday even with the mis-matched speakers by simply turning sub mode off.
Sound like the perfect opportunity and reason to upgrade If your receiver has room correction, turn it off and see if that makes a difference.
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post #2908 of 3543 Old 07-10-2019, 06:58 AM
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The bigger speaker will require LESS power for a given loudness as it is more efficient.
two woofers increases loudness 3 Db; and doubles the woofer surface area effectively turning say a 6-1/2" speaker into the equivalent of a 8" speaker in terms of power handling.

The bigger speaker can handle more power combined with being more efficient means it will go probably up to twice as loud. But, at the SAME power will be louder than the bookshelf.
So if I used (2) 580s as my front L&R, (2) 530s as my surrounds and the 520c as my center, wouldn't I have to boost the volume level to the 530s and 520c, since they'd get overpowered by the more efficient 580s? Is that less than ideal to do that? Should I try and use all speakers with matching sensitivities? Actually, now that I look, I guess it doesn't even matter at this point as the 530s are already -2db less efficient at 86db than my 520c is at 88db. Does that mean I should be boosting the volume levels to my 530s by +2db to even everything out? I've never even noticed the 520c being louder than the 530s, tbh...even running pink noise they sound pretty balanced to me. But the difference between the 86db 530s and the 90db 580s would probably be more pronounced.
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post #2909 of 3543 Old 07-10-2019, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by papatoony2 View Post
So if I used (2) 580s as my front L&R, (2) 530s as my surrounds and the 520c as my center, wouldn't I have to boost the volume level to the 530s and 520c, since they'd get overpowered by the more efficient 580s? Is that less than ideal to do that? Should I try and use all speakers with matching sensitivities? Actually, now that I look, I guess it doesn't even matter at this point as the 530s are already -2db less efficient at 86db than my 520c is at 88db. Does that mean I should be boosting the volume levels to my 530s by +2db to even everything out? I've never even noticed the 520c being louder than the 530s, tbh...even running pink noise they sound pretty balanced to me. But the difference between the 86db 530s and the 90db 580s would probably be more pronounced.
There's more to volume than just the efficiency measurements - your room characteristics, viewing distance, etc. all come into play. You're correct that you may run into headroom differences between the speakers if you try to really crank the system but at general listening levels you shouldn't have any issue with that combination of speakers. Level-matching through your receiver will take care of it.
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post #2910 of 3543 Old 07-10-2019, 10:12 AM
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Any experience with how long JBL takes to ship stuff out. Placed order on Monday and it's Wednesday.

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