**The Official Chane Music and Cinema owner's thread** - Page 199 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5941 of 5992 Old 05-18-2020, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by J Devil 666 View Post
Thanks for heads up, I did see that he has not sold it yet as well. 1 thing though, there is no Bluetooth which is not a deal breaker for me, my kids like having that option.
But hey it's not about them...LOL

I purchased an external phono preamp over the weekend to by-pass the Onkyo in unit one. It has helped with gaining volume during TT play.



You can add Bluetooth easily with something like the Emotiva BTR-1 which even has a digital output keeping the use of the DAC in the receiver.


https://emotiva.com/collections/acce...products/btr-1

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post #5942 of 5992 Old 05-20-2020, 12:25 AM
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I'm getting ancy about the upcoming subs now. Been checking Twitter, here, and the main site everyday!
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post #5943 of 5992 Old 05-20-2020, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post
My Omega Seamaster 300 Professional Master Chronometer sits on my winder. This is my Omega Speedmaster Blue Side of the Moon Aventurine Moonphase, also METAS certified. It’s become my daily since I got it. Still love my Seamaster though!

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Those are gorgeous! One day I hope to own a Railmaster, not as popular but I love the look.

This is my Breitling Colt Chrono Transocean that I got from a relative, love it to death. I need to send it off to get serviced, just trying to stomach that $500 price tag

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post #5944 of 5992 Old 05-20-2020, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by oahubrew View Post
I'm getting ancy about the upcoming subs now. Been checking Twitter, here, and the main site everyday!

They're here, being assembled and tested. Over-packing is the final step, then we'll post them on the existing site while announcing them in all the usual places.

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post #5945 of 5992 Old 05-20-2020, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post
Those are gorgeous! One day I hope to own a Railmaster, not as popular but I love the look.

This is my Breitling Colt Chrono Transocean that I got from a relative, love it to death. I need to send it off to get serviced, just trying to stomach that $500 price tag


That’s a beautiful piece!!

Yeah, the movement service fees suck, but you get a brand new watch back.

How long since last service? You can usually go closer to 10 (or until isochronism suffers) Without issue.


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post #5946 of 5992 Old 05-20-2020, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post
That’s a beautiful piece!!

Yeah, the movement service fees suck, but you get a brand new watch back.

How long since last service? You can usually go closer to 10 (or until isochronism suffers) Without issue.


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Thanks!

It has probably been about that long, but yeah they will get it all polished and cleaned up, may see about replacing the Sapphire as well.
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post #5947 of 5992 Old 05-20-2020, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post
Thanks!

It has probably been about that long, but yeah they will get it all polished and cleaned up, may see about replacing the Sapphire as well.

Crystals are usually extra. But the time to do it is during service. You want to open the watch as seldom as possible.

I hate a beat crystal.


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post #5948 of 5992 Old 05-21-2020, 08:32 AM
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There are a lot of knowledgeable, experienced folks on this thread, so here's a scenario/question - your advice is appreciated!

I'm seriously considering the purchase of dual Chane subs (10" ported, probably the 550 W version). Having read a lot of threads on AVS, it seems like the easiest way to integrate dual subs in a room is through careful REW/UMIK-1 measurements and the use of a miniDSP-2x4HD. These tools allow maximum return on investment by allowing for optimization of ULF at the main listening position(s), regardless of the number of subs. These tools are also necessary for conquering room nulls.

I am preparing a purchase of the UMIK-1 (Cross Spectrum Labs sells them individually calibrated vs. batch calibrated, so I'll likely go there for an extra $25 unless advised otherwise), a boom-mic stand ($20 at Amazon), and the miniDSP-2x4HD ($205, up to 10 filters, much longer delays available than the non-HD version). I won't have a dedicated computer in the room, so a temporary laptop setup to take measurements and tailor the response with the DSP will be used. I also don't want to spend the extra $75 on a WiDG for the DSP - I'll just use a USB cable to connect to the DSP at the same time, according to the video at the bottom.

Question about the process/setup: I'll have an HDMI cable running from the laptop to the AVR, a USB from the laptop to the DSP, and a USB from the laptop to the UMIK-1. All cable lengths will be < 15 feet, with the laptop temporarily situation on a chair/small table in the middle of the room. Does this make sense? I'll be able to move the UMIK-1 across all seating positions in the room with this setup, so I think it will be fine (I've been cautioned about longer cable lengths giving inadequate readings).

If all goes well, I should be able to post comparisons between my current situation and a dual Chane sub setup here...at some point. It looks like using REW requires a great deal of time and patience...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo
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post #5949 of 5992 Old 05-21-2020, 08:43 AM
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This all sounds good. Only caveat is be sure that wherever the laptop sits, neither it or you should be blocking line-of-sight between any mic position and any speaker position. If bass drivers don't have perfect line-of-site that's probably okay, especially in the case of the subwoofers.

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Transducers: Revel Concerta2 F36 (3), M16 (4); Tannoy AMS 6DC (4); Rythmik F18 (2)
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post #5950 of 5992 Old 05-21-2020, 09:48 AM
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If all goes well, I should be able to post comparisons between my current situation and a dual Chane sub setup here...at some point. It looks like using REW requires a great deal of time and patience...
Your set up looks good. IMO get a Umik-1 and REW 1st and just run sweeps, tweak and learn & learn about REW. Later on you can add the Mini-DSP-HD, and focus on just learning that instead of trying to learn Mini-DSP-HD & REW at the same time, which be quite daunting IMO.
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post #5951 of 5992 Old 05-21-2020, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jwskud View Post
I'm seriously considering the purchase of dual Chane subs (10" ported, probably the 550 W version). Having read a lot of threads on AVS, it seems like the easiest way to integrate dual subs in a room is through careful REW/UMIK-1 measurements and the use of a miniDSP-2x4HD. These tools allow maximum return on investment by allowing for optimization of ULF at the main listening position(s), regardless of the number of subs. These tools are also necessary for conquering room nulls.
The easiest way is (IMO) Audyssey XT32 w/SubEQ, but it's always great to have measuring capability to improve the setup even further.

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I am preparing a purchase of the UMIK-1 (Cross Spectrum Labs sells them individually calibrated vs. batch calibrated, so I'll likely go there for an extra $25 unless advised otherwise)
You'll gain increased measurement accuracy down near 20 Hz and below, and above 10-15 kHz with the CSL calibration. I would say unless you have subs that go really low, it's not going to make much of a difference. However, if you aspire to real low-tuned Rythmiks some day, it would be a good investment.
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post #5952 of 5992 Old 05-21-2020, 04:40 PM
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However, if you aspire to real low-tuned Rythmiks some day, it would be a good investment.
Yeah, that's the long-term plan, so I'll spend the extra $25 now and have it for the future...something like October 2036... $1900 per sub is a LOT of dough!
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post #5953 of 5992 Old 05-21-2020, 06:56 PM
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Yeah, that's the long-term plan, so I'll spend the extra $25 now and have it for the future...something like October 2036... $1900 per sub is a LOT of dough!
Seriously check out the PSA TV1812 18inch ported sub with a Port tune of 12hz for only $1649 ( shipped) presale. The driver is a B&C Neo made in Italy. No measurements yet but Tom V ( the V in SVS) says it's a direct competitor to the FV18.

The Rythmik FV18 is a beast of a sub...but if you can get the same or close to the performance of a FV18 for $250 less! Why not? With the $$ you save you can buy a New Chane sub and set up a room for dedicated for 2.1 music...that's what I'm gonna do, add a nice chane sub to my A1.5
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post #5954 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 06:43 AM
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Seriously check out the PSA TV1812 18inch ported sub with a Port tune of 12hz for only $1649 ( shipped) presale. The driver is a B&C Neo made in Italy. No measurements yet but Tom V ( the V in SVS) says it's a direct competitor to the FV18.

The Rythmik FV18 is a beast of a sub...but if you can get the same or close to the performance of a FV18 for $250 less! Why not? With the $$ you save you can buy a New Chane sub and set up a room for dedicated for 2.1 music...that's what I'm gonna do, add a nice chane sub to my A1.5
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Yeah, that's the long-term plan, so I'll spend the extra $25 now and have it for the future...something like October 2036... $1900 per sub is a LOT of dough!
With the FV18, if you opt to pick it up from UPS, you save $100. This is what I did and it made getting it in the house much easier as I could back the truck up to the back door and unload it directly into the room where it is ending up.
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post #5955 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by rhelliott2 View Post
Seriously check out the PSA TV1812 18inch ported sub with a Port tune of 12hz for only $1649 ( shipped) presale. The driver is a B&C Neo made in Italy. No measurements yet but Tom V ( the V in SVS) says it's a direct competitor to the FV18.

The Rythmik FV18 is a beast of a sub...but if you can get the same or close to the performance of a FV18 for $250 less! Why not? With the $$ you save you can buy a New Chane sub and set up a room for dedicated for 2.1 music...that's what I'm gonna do, add a nice chane sub to my A1.5
From what he said, he is a long way from either prices. I think the $250 saving won't help right now :s
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post #5956 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 12:20 PM
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From what he said, he is a long way from either price.
Ha! Yeah, I've been saving my small work bonuses (the only money I allow myself to spend on A/V) since December (last purchase was the Aircom T10), and I've amassed $800, which isn't bad, but a far cry from the $1900 required for a single FV18 sub! I'm hoping the $800 is enough for all the DSP/UMIK-1/cable crap I need to get and 2 Chane 550 watt 10" subs...but we'll see. I'll likely be a bit short and may need to borrow against actual earnings and "pay it back" later.

Once I make this purchase I'm calling the family room system done...although some stands for the A1.5s would be nice...and maybe a pair of A4.5s for rears (although placement would be very difficult)!

Long-term plan: new system in the basement. Start with a 65" OLED 4k, then a new receiver, then subs and speakers. By the time I have the money to start building all that (years from now), I'm hoping someone will have compared the Chane 700 and L Series vs. JTR and PSA...I'm hoping the 700 Series compares favorably to the JTRs and PSAs for HT, as they'll likely be a lot more affordable.
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post #5957 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 12:34 PM
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Ha! Yeah, I've been saving my small work bonuses (the only money I allow myself to spend on A/V) since December (last purchase was the Aircom T10), and I've amassed $800, which isn't bad, but a far cry from the $1900 required for a single FV18 sub! I'm hoping the $800 is enough for all the DSP/UMIK-1/cable crap I need to get and 2 Chane 550 watt 10" subs...but we'll see. I'll likely be a bit short and may need to borrow against actual earnings and "pay it back" later.

Once I make this purchase I'm calling the family room system done...although some stands for the A1.5s would be nice...and maybe a pair of A4.5s for rears (although placement would be very difficult)!

Long-term plan: new system in the basement. Start with a 65" OLED 4k, then a new receiver, then subs and speakers. By the time I have the money to start building all that (years from now), I'm hoping someone will have compared the Chane 700 and L Series vs. JTR and PSA...I'm hoping the 700 Series compares favorably to the JTRs and PSAs for HT, as they'll likely be a lot more affordable.
How are the A1.5 placed now? Wall mounted?
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post #5958 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 12:40 PM
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How are the A1.5 placed now? Wall mounted?
One is on a bookshelf and the other is on an end-table. They're pretty well situated as-is, but one is higher than the other. Also, for some reason someone can probably explain, the output for the one on the bookshelf is louder than the one on the end table - probably due to reflections (although I have the front of the speaker about 1" proud of the bookshelf). I have them gain-matched through my AVR.

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post #5959 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 12:43 PM
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One is on a bookshelf and the other is on an end-table. They're pretty well situated as-is, but one is higher than the other. Also, for some reason someone can probably explain, the output for the one on the bookshelf is louder than the one on the end table - probably due to reflections (although I have the front of the speaker about 1" proud of the bookshelf). I have them gain-matched through my AVR.
Maybe rear port related? or AVR related? Are they in even distance from sitting position? Mine are not so I'm guessing they are gained differently.

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post #5960 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 12:50 PM
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Maybe rear port related? or AVR related?
I've got the rear ports of both sealed (foam insert), and they're both a few inches from the back wall...I think the one being on the bookshelf (and also closer to MLP) just results in it being louder for some reason. When I compared them to the A5.4s as L/R, they were equal in output.

Chane A2.4 center, Chane A5.4s L/R, Chane A1.5s surround, Kenwood KS-505HTs rear
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post #5961 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jwskud View Post
I've got the rear ports of both sealed (foam insert), and they're both a few inches from the back wall...I think the one being on the bookshelf (and also closer to MLP) just results in it being louder for some reason. When I compared them to the A5.4s as L/R, they were equal in output.
Maybe hook them up instead of the L/R and see if they still act this way. I can't offer real knowledge just common sense. If they are not in even distance from sitting position, my logic would say the AVR would maybe add gain to the one farther away to balance. Maybe I'm talking bs.
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post #5962 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 02:02 PM
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Maybe hook them up instead of the L/R and see if they still act this way. I can't offer real knowledge just common sense. If they are not in even distance from sitting position, my logic would say the AVR would maybe add gain to the one farther away to balance. Maybe I'm talking bs.
Yeah, that's exactly what I did once upon a time and they were perfectly matched. So it has something to do with placement, and a bit to do with distance to MLP.
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post #5963 of 5992 Old 05-22-2020, 02:54 PM
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So it has something to do with placement, and a bit to do with distance to MLP.

Maybe you could try finding a cheap little table to use temporary to get it off the bookshelf? The local Goodwill or thrift shop will usually always have an assortment of small tables for next to nothing.
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post #5964 of 5992 Old 05-23-2020, 02:04 AM
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Everyone's excited for the recently announced Chane subs; I'm just over hear sitting on my hands for the last 3 years waiting on the A4.5's

Any word on these beauties? My office studio can't happen till I can move my A1.5's in there!
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post #5965 of 5992 Old 05-23-2020, 09:34 AM
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Dual sub question. I'm thinking I might want to consider going with dual subs when the Chane ones come out (likely the 190W ones), as opposed to one of the more powerful subs, as based on what I'm reading for single vs. dual subs in general I might prefer the resulting sound. However, jwskud's post above about using additional equipment for the dual subs in a setup is not really a path I want to go down (from an either time nor money perspective). I also know I'm not nearly as much of an audiophile as everyone on here. From what I can tell my receiver (Denon ACR-X3400H) has dual sub outputs. Can I just plug each sub into one of the outputs, run the Audyssey software, and that will take care of balancing everything? I have no problem moving the subs to different positions to see what would work best (I only have a few locations I can put the subs anyway (all near the main speakers), as I don't think I can put them in the back of the room due to cabling issues anyway).
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post #5966 of 5992 Old 05-23-2020, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msweig View Post
Dual sub question....Can I just plug each sub into one of the outputs, run the Audyssey software, and that will take care of balancing everything? I have no problem moving the subs to different positions to see what would work best (I only have a few locations I can put the subs anyway...
Ah, I feel your pain. I never wanted to go down the REW/miniDSP 2x4HD path. The video I posted above (how to integrate dual subs), while 1.5 hours long, has a great section(s) explaining why the REW/DSP path is necessary to optimize your subs and get everything out of them you possibly can (and to make sure your two subs are not fighting against one another!). It seems like a lot of trial and error, but not that difficult. Can you still get a lot out of duals without it? Yes, but you won't know what you're missing. Ignorance is bliss, the path I've been on for years, so I understand your reluctance.

If you have Audyssey XT32 with sub EQ, you're better off than most...but it has its limitations.

All that being said, with limited placement options, perhaps your route is best (and it will save you some dough). There are two ways to (perhaps) optimally place subs in a room without REW. First, you can look at the Harman studies and their room mode calculator. Second, you can use this technique and a free app (Spectroid) on your phone to optimize location:

You could always start out going your route and get REW later...if you want. Personally, I've always felt that, if the MLP is the only position where bass needs to be optimized, you can get by without REW. But you still won't know for sure you're fully optimized, or be able to fix anything if you're not (where the DSP comes in handy).
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post #5967 of 5992 Old 05-23-2020, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msweig View Post
Dual sub question. I'm thinking I might want to consider going with dual subs when the Chane ones come out (likely the 190W ones), as opposed to one of the more powerful subs, as based on what I'm reading for single vs. dual subs in general I might prefer the resulting sound.
If your room is medium to small, dual subs (properly placed, ideally spread out) will almost certainly give you better sound quality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by msweig View Post
However, jwskud's post above about using additional equipment for the dual subs in a setup is not really a path I want to go down (from an either time nor money perspective). I also know I'm not nearly as much of an audiophile as everyone on here. From what I can tell my receiver (Denon ACR-X3400H) has dual sub outputs. Can I just plug each sub into one of the outputs, run the Audyssey software, and that will take care of balancing everything?
Yes. XT32 w/SubEQ does a good job of meshing it all together. Start with both subs with phase/delay set to 0 to begin, try your placement options, and read the Audyssey setup thread for the best info on how to get good results before, during, and after the process. As stated above by jwskud, being able to measure is extremely helpful in the placement process and after setup in optimizing everything, especially when optimizing the crossover to your speakers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by msweig View Post
I have no problem moving the subs to different positions to see what would work best (I only have a few locations I can put the subs anyway (all near the main speakers), as I don't think I can put them in the back of the room due to cabling issues anyway).
Cabling is not really a good reason to not put a sub in the back, which is one of the best places for a sub. If it's in a walk way or if there are furniture or spouse approval issues in play, those are more serious reasons. If you are serious about this, and I think you are because you aren't looking at sound bar or home-theater-in-a-box solutions, I would do what it takes to try to make it happen.
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post #5968 of 5992 Old 05-23-2020, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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If your room is medium to small, dual subs (properly placed, ideally spread out) will almost certainly give you better sound quality.


Yes. XT32 w/SubEQ does a good job of meshing it all together. Start with both subs with phase/delay set to 0 to begin, try your placement options, and read the Audyssey setup thread for the best info on how to get good results before, during, and after the process. As stated above by jwskud, being able to measure is extremely helpful in the placement process and after setup in optimizing everything, especially when optimizing the crossover to your speakers.


Cabling is not really a good reason to not put a sub in the back, which is one of the best places for a sub. If it's in a walk way or if there are furniture or spouse approval issues in play, those are more serious reasons. If you are serious about this, and I think you are because you aren't looking at sound bar or home-theater-in-a-box solutions, I would do what it takes to try to make it happen.

+1

I’ll add that near field sub placement, along with rear sub placement, is a grossly overlooked option. Both of which I’ve had a lot of success with.


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post #5969 of 5992 Old 05-24-2020, 07:12 AM
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I might be able to drop one of the subs in the back of the room. I'd have to run the cable in front of a door to the porch, but we rarely open that door. Not sure the dog or kiddos would not mess with the cable though, and the sub wouldn't end up being in the rear but right next to the couch.
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post #5970 of 5992 Old 05-24-2020, 08:06 AM
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I might be able to drop one of the subs in the back of the room. I'd have to run the cable in front of a door to the porch, but we rarely open that door. Not sure the dog or kiddos would not mess with the cable though, and the sub wouldn't end up being in the rear but right next to the couch.
See this post:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...l#post59680582
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