Originally Posted by notnyt
You can still toe a speaker in a baffle wall.
If you create a rectangular hole in your baffle wall with side gaps (to allow significant speaker toe-in rotation) then the edges of that rectangle create an objectionable hard edge, an object, in close proximity to the
CD for the high frequency sound to diffract against which can blur imaging. Even thought this is 90 degrees away from the main axis, manufacturers go to great lengths to avoid sharp edges in the entire front hemisphere and is why the M2 doesn't have a grill, at all
, and somewhat rounded off front cabinet side edges.
More on possible set backs with baffles from Toole:
"In perusing some Internet photos of baffle-wall installations I have seen examples of bad practice in that the loudspeakers were placed inside enclosures sunk into the wall, and the cavity around the loudspeakers were not closed off or filled. Figure 9.9, p. 272 shows what might happen. The loudspeakers should be flush mounted without gaps. This achieves a perfect 2π mounting, which is beneficial to the bass output, but then there is the matter of the changed diffraction around the edges of the enclosure at higher frequencies. The edge diffraction of enclosures is part of the loudspeaker design and removing it or changing it actually changes the loudspeaker design. This is more likely to be a problem with cone/dome designs than designs using large horns, but it cannot be ignored.
I would be inclined to avoid a baffle wall for loudspeakers designed to be free/floorstanding because of the diffraction issue, which affects off-axis performance. Equalization can compensate for the bass rise, as it would have to in the baffle wall case, and also the adjacent-boundary dip due to wall behind. Baffle walls are a “cinema” thing, not a requirement for routine domestic installations."