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post #2701 of 4705 Old 05-01-2017, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 12B4A View Post
One of my worries is the EQ boost will solve the HF loss through the screen at the LP but what do microperf screens do to angular response vs. woven screens vs. speakers to the sides?
Going to see if I can get some input on this.

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post #2702 of 4705 Old 05-01-2017, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
Why does the 4367 use a different horn waveguide than the M2?

Can we get an answer from JBL on that?

Just curious.

Thanks!
Good answers here, plus attached is the 4367 White Paper that gets into detail about this speaker.
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post #2703 of 4705 Old 05-01-2017, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12B4A View Post
One of my worries is the EQ boost will solve the HF loss through the screen at the LP but what do microperf screens do to angular response vs. woven screens vs. speakers to the sides?
Got an answer:

With large cinema horns located close behind a partially reflecting (i.e. perforated) screen the radiation to the side is increased by reflections from the flared sides of the horns. this is not a problem, as the output falls off to the side. If the horns are small or located farther away the effect on directional output is negligible. With cones and domes there is no effect. So in HT systems it is not an issue, and if it were, it would not be a problem.

Incidentally, the comb filtering that is created by the sound reflected back from the screen and then forward by the speaker box is measurable but not audible. Go ahead with the boost.

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post #2704 of 4705 Old 05-01-2017, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
Good answers here, plus attached is the 4367 White Paper that gets into detail about this speaker.
The rising HF distortion in that "white paper" is interesting. I didn't look that closely last time I read it, but definitely noticed this time. As I was reading through I saw they crossed at 700hz, which amused me since there were comments from Harman about the crossover in the M2 being an octave below where they were comfortable with the CD. When I saw the distortion graphs I went to see how it performed in that region, and it looked excellent at those levels. However, I was puzzled when I saw the distortion on the higher frequencies actually rising.

I don't recall observing that when testing the D2430Ks. I wonder if it has something to do with the amplification they were using. I wouldn't be surprised if so. When testing 10db hotter, my distortion measurements were much lower and did not increase with frequency, even with my mic that distorts fairly easily. I doubt it's being caused by the network, so my money is on the amplification.
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post #2705 of 4705 Old 05-01-2017, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
Thought I’d post some thoughts Dr. Toole himself shared with me during an e-mail exchange this past weekend, as they are directly pertinent to our conversation here (I will also post this in the Synthesis thread, where most of it belongs). If you look at the pics below, you can see what Dr. Toole chose for his own personal home theater / listening space (Revel Salon2s paired with a Voice2 center and Gem2 surrounds). I think we would all agree that Dr. Toole knows as well as anyone on the planet what constitutes good sound, and I think his choices (and thoughts) are illuminating 😊 Pics of his new listening room are at the bottom of this post.

Here are some of his comments, which also touch on something else I’ve been harping on - that Room EQ above transition is a really bad idea, especially with truly accurate speakers like the Revels in his theater (plus of course speakers like the M2 and LSR7 series). To put this in perspective, the initial topic was Dr. Toole’s upcoming Third Edition of his book, Sound Reproduction:

There is a lot of new content, especially focused on cinema sound and how the X-curve and calibration processes are based on faulty data. I make a direct attack on "room EQ" which I regard as a disease in our industry - except at low frequencies, of course. There it can work for a single listener, unless one employs a multi-sub strategy to reduce seat-to-seat variations.Without trustworthy anechoic data on the loudspeakers it is not possible to interpret a steady-state room curve, and without interpretation one has no idea of what is causing what is seen in the curves, and what remedial measures must be taken. EQ is very limited in what it can do and some of the most common problems in loudspeakers can only be corrected with a better loudspeaker.

Acoustic treatments are discussed in some detail, but due to space limitations the rest of it will be have to be covered in the website that will accompany the book. As you know, above the transition frequency room treatment is much less of a factor if one starts with well designed loudspeakers. I attach photos of my entertainment room illustrating that absolutely superb sound can be delivered in a room that does not look "technical". That was my goal many years ago. I jokingly claim that the secret is the acoustical scattering from the bronze sculptures :-) The real solution is in the loudspeakers.

The wall mounted inverted Salon2s are remarkably unobtrusive for such large speakers. The trick was to make these large heavy loudspeakers earthquake safe - I have a super builder!!! Gem2s provide surrounds that are perfect timbral matches. Two more will be installed at the +/- 60 deg locations. It is as good as any sound I have ever experienced and it is in a room that looks more like an art gallery than a home theater. There is a 10 ft screen the rolls down for front projection.

Four subs are in a Sound Field Managed configuration so the bass is smooth and resonance free down to about 17 Hz. No bass traps required. Elevation speakers are yet to be installed. A JBL Synthesis/Trinnov processor is planned for control.

As I now have time to listen more - TIDAL is wonderful! - I realize even more than before that the true weak link in audio is the recording. I like comparing 10 versions of the same movement in a classical recording. They are horrendously variable in the sophistication of directional and spatial rendering and in timbre. One still needs tone controls for serious listening, but the directional and spatial qualities are often impossible to fix. A neutral playback system is unforgiving of these defects.


In a follow-up today, Dr. Toole lamented the current state of film sound (which goes directly to all the recent discussion about dynamics, volume, trying to reproduce theatrical levels, etc):

In the old book I wrote a small section (18.2.6) on it, saying that there was no science behind the cinema and dubbing stage calibration process. A film sound mixer read it, agreed, and managed to get SMPTE interested in investigating the status of film sound. Long story short, they invited me to be involved, many measurements were done, the results were a mess - some immaculately calibrated facilities sounded significantly better if the calibration equalization was turned off. Add to this the fact that the X-curve is the wrong target curve and it is easy to understand why going to a movie is not always a sonically rewarding experience.

Sometime soon there is hope that work will begin on a new standard. However the traditions and folklore propagated within the industry have lasting effects. That, and the poor financial state of cinemas these days are not encouraging signs that change may happen. My feedback from industry sources indicates that immersive audio is not taking off as the moneymakers had hoped - rather like 3D visuals. Personally, I think a lot of it has to do with better - at least acceptable - home systems, and the scarcity of intelligent dialog and plots in many of the movies.

The current topic of internal discussion in SMPTE has to do with excessive loudness in many movies, which get turned down by cinema owners, with the regrettable loss in dialog intelligibility. Another mess, driven by directors who want their movie to be the loudest on the block. Compression is widespread - as is hearing loss among the mixers who aren't wise enough to wear musicians earplugs.

A good home theater is the place to be. I enjoy well recorded music concerts as much as movies. The multichannel sound tracks can be excellent - but not always.




This is the thing about audio. Most is about the room and sometimes you can just get lucky with its dimension. I be that sloping ceiling helps out alot. Odd shaped rooms usually have good response. Now Dont take that the wrong way as its frickin F. Toole and he has fantastic equipment and is a genius. Don't wanna take nothing away from him but... You could put that exact same equipment in 10 different rooms and get 10 different sounding rooms. I don't care how "accurate" the speakers are. With audio its so so much about the room, to a point anyway as we all know.

I see so many people fraught with decision making about which model to buy but as long the room is up to snuff and the specs meet the required needs and its installed correctly its gunna sound good; more then likey great.

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post #2706 of 4705 Old 05-01-2017, 10:54 PM
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Oh hell no is my iitial response on rooms...but I will give a hell yea if your room is a concrete bunker in a cube shape. all the apt's I lived in had terrible highs and outrageous bass...once I got in a home/house and things opened up more sound got better...in the biggest most open room is where I have gotten the best sound the easiest.
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post #2707 of 4705 Old 05-05-2017, 06:17 AM
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John,

I remember you stating you were going to try the 600 watt amp (vs. the 300 watt amp) with the 708i. I was wondering if you got the chance to do so?
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post #2708 of 4705 Old 05-05-2017, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Kain View Post
John,

I remember you stating you were going to try the 600 watt amp (vs. the 300 watt amp) with the 708i. I was wondering if you got the chance to do so?
Yes, I have an SDA4600 hooked up to my LSR708s (4x600), plus I set the limiter to 69v per JBL. I have not had much time to play with the system yet, run any tests or even re-calibrate. Just been a crazy couple of weeks.

All I can tell you so far is that the limiter does not kick in when playing my usual torture tests like it used to (OPEN RANGE, UNBROKEN). I want to do more testing with some bass heavy music tracks, perhaps this weekend.

Of course, I was happy with the sound of the LSR708 / S2S-EX combo before the new amp, but I did notice the limiter kicking in if I really pushed the system. That "issue" seems to have gone away.

FWIW, I have a set of three M2s coming in a week or two so will be playing with those as well. There were a few here who mentioned wanting to hear them (plus possibly the 708s). Within a couple of weeks that should be possible

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post #2709 of 4705 Old 05-11-2017, 07:35 PM
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Speakers are finally here. Hope to have my Anthem AVM60 on hand next week so I can start making some noise.
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post #2710 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
Yes, I have an SDA4600 hooked up to my LSR708s (4x600), plus I set the limiter to 69v per JBL. I have not had much time to play with the system yet, run any tests or even re-calibrate. Just been a crazy couple of weeks.

All I can tell you so far is that the limiter does not kick in when playing my usual torture tests like it used to (OPEN RANGE, UNBROKEN). I want to do more testing with some bass heavy music tracks, perhaps this weekend.

Of course, I was happy with the sound of the LSR708 / S2S-EX combo before the new amp, but I did notice the limiter kicking in if I really pushed the system. That "issue" seems to have gone away.

FWIW, I have a set of three M2s coming in a week or two so will be playing with those as well. There were a few here who mentioned wanting to hear them (plus possibly the 708s). Within a couple of weeks that should be possible
Thanks.

Few questions:

1. Even though the limiter does not kick-in with the 600 watt amp, do you notice any distortion or just more (clean) SPL?

2. Is there any minimum listening distance requirement for the M2?

3. Just so I have a clear understanding of this, with the SDA 4600 I will need one amp per pair for M2s and will have to use Audio Architect to setup/configure the amp for use with the M2. No SDEC will be required. With the iTech 5000HD, I will need one amp per M2 and will also need Audio Architect to configure the amp for use with the M2? No SDEC will be required for the Crown amp either. Will both amps offer equal wattage to the M2 (after setup/configuration of the amps) i.e. 600 watts to the tweeter and 600 watts to the woofer or will the iTech 5000HD provide more wattage than that to the M2?
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post #2711 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 12:37 PM
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Speakers are finally here. Hope to have my Anthem AVM60 on hand next week so I can start making some noise.
Nice! I'm home waiting on mine to arrive.
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post #2712 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by goskers View Post
Speakers are finally here. Hope to have my Anthem AVM60 on hand next week so I can start making some noise.
Wow, a complete front sound stage comprised of 3 JBL M2's... That is perfection! lol.

I've been enjoying my M2's as well, although I'm waiting to post pics until I get the front wall treated. I have a nasty suck out at around 105 hz. Nearly a 30 db dip! And because of their size, placement options are greatly limited. I have a whole bunch of Owens Corning 703 to cover the front wall with. That should do it.

I'm thinking with all that sound absorption that is gonna be added to the room, I ought to do some diffusion to keep the room from sounding too dead. Where are some good places besides the back of the room to use diffusion? Anywhere on the front wall? The sides at all?
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post #2713 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 01:31 PM
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Damn

Damn blackdevil, didn't know you sold the cats and got M2s. Hit us up with some impressions.

I've never had luck with room treatments fixing a dip that large, and that low. Hope your outcome is different. Maybe look at listening position too, if possible
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post #2714 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 01:44 PM
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Damn blackdevil, didn't know you sold the cats and got M2s. Hit us up with some impressions.

I've never had luck with room treatments fixing a dip that large, and that low. Hope your outcome is different. Maybe look at listening position too, if possible
I definitely will once the room treatments are done. So far, they are incredible. I love the level of detail and the massive sound stage these things. And there is absolutely no shortage of power with the I-techs, that's for damn sure lol.

I played with positions and the difference in the slightest movement of the mic is ridiculous. In one spot, I'll get a 15 db dip, then move the mic 6 inches to the side and the dip goes from 15db to 30 db. Then move it a little more again and it's at 25db. It's just all over the place, and with ARC you measure in multiple locations, so it averages all these stupid dips in. They're so bad, ARC set my crossover frequency for the M2's at 250 hz! I had to manually change it to 80 hz. I'm hoping these treatments will at least reduce those dips, if they can't get rid of them.

My room just sucks. It's way too small, the ceilings are way to low. It just squeezes the sound. The absorption I have already make the room sound somewhat "dead" and now I have to add more. I also read somewhere that diffusion is bad to use in a small room, so I'm not too sure how to tackle this.
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post #2715 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 01:54 PM
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big, badass speakers for a small room? why, but why? ...you crazy, but good luck.

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Rooms

Yea, wish I could offer more help with room acoustics. I will say the best change I ever got was with ceiling treatments. It has been suggested to me that side walls is optional with the M2s. With all the good off axis energy it adds width. Something to experiment with anyway.

I wouldn't let the room correction go much past 500, 1000 at most. The M2s don't need it above that. Anyway, hope you get it figured out.
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post #2717 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 03:41 PM
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big, badass speakers for a small room? why, but why? ...you crazy, but good luck.
Because Nassau County, Long Island. The land of over priced, small, cramped huts that everybody has to live in unless you have over a million to spend on a house. I plan on moving to Suffolk County within the next few years where the property is bigger/cheaper. Then I'll be able to fully utilize and enjoy the M2's. For now, I'm stuck with this small room, even though it's the 2nd biggest room in the house.

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Yea, wish I could offer more help with room acoustics. I will say the best change I ever got was with ceiling treatments. It has been suggested to me that side walls is optional with the M2s. With all the good off axis energy it adds width. Something to experiment with anyway.

I wouldn't let the room correction go much past 500, 1000 at most. The M2s don't need it above that. Anyway, hope you get it figured out.
I don't let the room eq correct above 350hz in my room. That's were things level out and the room stops having as much of an influence.

What sort of treatments do you have on the ceiling? All absorption?
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post #2718 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 06:50 PM
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I played with positions and the difference in the slightest movement of the mic is ridiculous. In one spot, I'll get a 15 db dip, then move the mic 6 inches to the side and the dip goes from 15db to 30 db. Then move it a little more again and it's at 25db. It's just all over the place, and with ARC you measure in multiple locations, so it averages all these stupid dips in. They're so bad, ARC set my crossover frequency for the M2's at 250 hz! I had to manually change it to 80 hz. I'm hoping these treatments will at least reduce those dips, if they can't get rid of them.
Haven't run ARC yet, does it recommend a frequency where it should provide changes to the response?

I.E., does it attempt to identify the Schroeder frequency of your room and recommend adjustment below this?

If you have significant response problems then you should look into multiple subs if at all possible.
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post #2719 of 4705 Old 05-12-2017, 08:26 PM
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Haven't run ARC yet, does it recommend a frequency where it should provide changes to the response?

I.E., does it attempt to identify the Schroeder frequency of your room and recommend adjustment below this?

If you have significant response problems then you should look into multiple subs if at all possible.
It does not, it defaults to the full capable correction frequency of 5,000 hz. ARC can't identify the Shroeder frequency of the room, that's something that you have to calculate. You can more or less tell where it is by looking at the frequency response graphs of your speakers. At a certain frequency, the measured response will look more or less the same, and below that frequency, you'll notice the frequency response to be all over the place when compared to each other. The EQ cut off should be around that frequency when things start becoming more uniform.

I have 2 subs. The response problems I'm having are around 105hz to about 250 hz. The frequencies that the subs are responsible for (80hz and below) look pretty good across all the front listening positions.
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post #2720 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 03:43 AM
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Wow, a complete front sound stage comprised of 3 JBL M2's... That is perfection! lol.

I've been enjoying my M2's as well, although I'm waiting to post pics until I get the front wall treated. I have a nasty suck out at around 105 hz. Nearly a 30 db dip! And because of their size, placement options are greatly limited. I have a whole bunch of Owens Corning 703 to cover the front wall with. That should do it.

I'm thinking with all that sound absorption that is gonna be added to the room, I ought to do some diffusion to keep the room from sounding too dead. Where are some good places besides the back of the room to use diffusion? Anywhere on the front wall? The sides at all?
These are loaded questions. If this an HT room and not a living room than you probably have 4 blank wall and you need some absorption on every wall to reduce overall reverberation. But you don't want to kill that lovely soundstage and envelopment you can get from those speakers so please do not absorb the first reflections on the side walls. The front wall and center area of the back wall is typically treated with absorption while the outer part of the back wall uses diffusion. diffusion or combo absorber/diffusion panels are usually used on side walls more towards the back half of the room. You often use some absorption directly to the side of the front speakers especially if speakers are placed close to the wall. There is really a lot involved and it depends on measurements, with those speakers and their good off axis response you can really sculpt your imaging and soundstage. Here is an article which touches on this.
https://homeacoustics.org/2017/04/ac...er-absorption/

Your 105hz dip is most likely caused by two things. you either have a room mode and you are in that dip of the room mode at your listening position or it is caused by Allison's effect aka SBIR(speaker boundary interference response). If it is a room mode try moving your seating or speakers.

If it is SBIR the best solution is to move the speakers. This is easily checked by moving the speakers. The further you move the speakers into the room the lower the frequency this dip will occur and the closer to the front wall the higher frequency it will occur You have three main options to solve this dip. EQ will NOT fix this dip it if is caused by a room mode or SBIR.

1. Move the speakers further into the room so this dip happens at a lower frequency and then crossover to the subs. You need to be 3.5 feet or greater from the wall to get the dip below 80hz. Keep in mind you don't have to use an 80hz crossover. I've mentioned many times in posts that crossover should be set based on room acoustics, this is a good example. While a 110hz crossover is a little high I would still take it over a 30db dip or move the speakers a little further into the room and get the crossover to 100hz or under.

2. Move the speakers closer to the wall and use absorption on the wall that can absorb the frequency of the dip. Owens 703 is not thick enough to fix a dip at 105hz.

3. use much thicker absorption or stack multiple panels to get the thickness you need to absorb 105hz.
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post #2721 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 04:15 AM
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My M2's are unpacked and playing music. A lot to do in terms of organizing, measuring and integrating my (2) Funk Audio 21.0LX subs when they arrive but getting closer.

Can't figure out how to rotate on this sight.
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post #2722 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 04:24 AM
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If you don't have the option to move your speakers and seating too much:
Since you already have the 703 panels, as an experiment to mitigate the dip you could place several panels 6"-12" from the walls (not corners) and remeasure. As Ellebob pointed out, 703 hanging on a wall won't even touch 105hz but if there's an airgap between the panel and the wall then you can reach down a bit in to that range.
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post #2723 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 06:01 AM
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These are loaded questions. If this an HT room and not a living room than you probably have 4 blank wall and you need some absorption on every wall to reduce overall reverberation. But you don't want to kill that lovely soundstage and envelopment you can get from those speakers so please do not absorb the first reflections on the side walls. The front wall and center area of the back wall is typically treated with absorption while the outer part of the back wall uses diffusion. diffusion or combo absorber/diffusion panels are usually used on side walls more towards the back half of the room. You often use some absorption directly to the side of the front speakers especially if speakers are placed close to the wall. There is really a lot involved and it depends on measurements, with those speakers and their good off axis response you can really sculpt your imaging and soundstage. Here is an article which touches on this.
https://homeacoustics.org/2017/04/ac...er-absorption/

Your 105hz dip is most likely caused by two things. you either have a room mode and you are in that dip of the room mode at your listening position or it is caused by Allison's effect aka SBIR(speaker boundary interference response). If it is a room mode try moving your seating or speakers.

If it is SBIR the best solution is to move the speakers. This is easily checked by moving the speakers. The further you move the speakers into the room the lower the frequency this dip will occur and the closer to the front wall the higher frequency it will occur You have three main options to solve this dip. EQ will NOT fix this dip it if is caused by a room mode or SBIR.

1. Move the speakers further into the room so this dip happens at a lower frequency and then crossover to the subs. You need to be 3.5 feet or greater from the wall to get the dip below 80hz. Keep in mind you don't have to use an 80hz crossover. I've mentioned many times in posts that crossover should be set based on room acoustics, this is a good example. While a 110hz crossover is a little high I would still take it over a 30db dip or move the speakers a little further into the room and get the crossover to 100hz or under.

2. Move the speakers closer to the wall and use absorption on the wall that can absorb the frequency of the dip. Owens 703 is not thick enough to fix a dip at 105hz.

3. use much thicker absorption or stack multiple panels to get the thickness you need to absorb 105hz.
I have combo panels on the first reflection points on the side walls. I'm not convinced they do much diffusing, but that's what they were advertised as (GIK alpha panels). Everything you mention is what I'm planning on doing today, minus the back of the room. The ceiling drops way too low and it's already horribly cramped, any protrusions from the wall would make it impossible to move around. As it is, everyone is always hitting their heads on the surround speakers and projector since the ceiling is about 6 feet tall where the projector is.

That dip is caused my SBIR. I tested it out, moving the mic doesn't remove the dip, just changes the severity of it. If I move the speakers out from the front wall, the dip falls lower in the frequency range. If I put the backs of the speakers right up against the wall, it moves up to about 200 hz.

The Owens Corning I have is 4" thick, and there will be about 1.5 inches of space between those panels and the back wall when mounted, they won't be flush against the wall.

Look at my room situation here. As you can see, the amount of "wall" I have to work with between the front wall and the entrance door is a complete joke. If I move the speaker out into the room from the front wall, it'll be blocking that door. If I move the speaker in from the side wall at all, it'll be blocking the screen. I literally have no play room with the placement in this nightmare room, my only chance to hopefully somewhat improve things is through treatments.

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post #2724 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 07:19 AM
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If anyone is getting a DCi I thought it might be a good idea to post what I've done with mine. Because there are so many wires it's pretty easy to confuse things and hook them up wrong. Once I get my speaker cables all made I'll label them too but the amp is easy too and over time one might forget what is what.
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post #2725 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 07:24 AM
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By the perspective of the picture the Alpha panel does not appear to be at the first reflection point but it could just be perspective. Anyways, when you have time to experiment I would take down those panels and take a listen and then re-position to see which you prefer. Is the panel with fabric on it also a combo panel or absorption panel? Let us know if you solve your SBIR problem.
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post #2726 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 07:30 AM
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By the perspective of the picture the Alpha panel does not appear to be at the first reflection point but it could just be perspective. Anyways, when you have time to experiment I would take down those panels and take a listen and then re-position to see which you prefer. Is the panel with fabric on it also a combo panel or absorption panel? Let us know if you solve your SBIR problem.
That's just an absorption panel, that's a pic I took when I just put the M2's into place, those 2 panels have now switched positions. They are mirrored on the opposite wall. If I take down the absorption panel, I get a really funky flutter echo.

Definitely will do. I'll be working on this all day today. By tonight I'll have some results to post.
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post #2727 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 08:41 AM
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Try it with and without the combo panel, I'll be interested on your impressions between both with those speakers.
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post #2728 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 08:25 PM
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Didn't get to finish today, got most of the way there. Just have a few more small things to do and have to do behind the screen. I did everything around the screen.

The side wall treatments have to stay. I removed them and there's a really funky echo with them. When you clap your hands without the side wall absorption, you actually hear a weird flutter.
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post #2729 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 08:29 PM
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I'll be working on this all day today. By tonight I'll have some results to post.
Congrats on finally getting the M2's in your room!

I love the M2's in my room, but I've heard them in better rooms. Improving room acoustics is never a waste with any speaker, but the M2's are particularly capable of rewarding the effort.
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post #2730 of 4705 Old 05-13-2017, 08:51 PM
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Congrats on finally getting the M2's in your room!

I love the M2's in my room, but I've heard them in better rooms. Improving room acoustics is never a waste with any speaker, but the M2's are particularly capable of rewarding the effort.
Thanks, they've been awesome! My room just sucks, I have such bad SBIR that ARC sets the crossover frequency to 250 hz on the M2's. I sure hope all of this work I have been doing rewards me with some real M2 magic. I've been chocking on fiber glass all day




Here's all the insulation cut into shape and put into place in the room. I spent most of the day wrapping these in black fabric. I ran out of fabric and hot glue so I have to continue on Monday or Tuesday. I still have behind the screen to do.
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