New TSx550t's vs RTiA7's - Same price... - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 36 Old 04-16-2014, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clunie View Post

hi again,

In My X,  Poppin tweeters does usually indicate a problem with the amp or signal path.  I just sold a set of Cerwin Vega's U321s to a fellow with a 50 watt Amp.  He's tripped the breaker on the tweeters several times already,  but I had run close to 200 watts into that same set,  but from a much higher quality, more powerful amp...and I never tripped them off...  But you do seem to know what your on about... I will say that I am very dubious of the claims of many of these so called AVRs... I think many of them are over rated...

+1.
I'd be looking at your AVR, that's usually where the problem is.

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post #32 of 36 Old 04-17-2014, 11:21 AM
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Yes, I agree on all of the above

and add, we are all at the mercy of what the manufacturer states as a rating

Pioneer's claim on the Elite SC-05 ? they "claim" it uses the ICE class-D amp made by Bang and Olfsen, under the ICE concept and that its output signals are monitored by the Nielsen corrective network, compared to the input signal, and corrected at a 365KHz rate. They also claim that it will output 135 watts per channel with all 7 channels driven at a max of 0.05 thd. now... B&O and Neilsen claim that when the amp is set at safety level 2 it will not allow the amp to output a clipped signal, or a signal that exceeds the 0.05 thd limit. They also "claim " that when it is set at safety level 1, it will detect a clipped signal and convert it to "soft clipping". B&O also "claim" that if the user tries to exceed these safety limits, or safety settings, the Neilsen Corrective network will shut the amp down.

.... but these are all "claims" made by  companies that want to sell a product. 

Myself, (as I have not actually manufactured any of the involved components) I have to rely somewhat on what I see and read. I read that B&O are well respected Leaders in the arena of manufacturing signal Amp's.... But I also read that Polk makes a quite nice speaker, so this leaves me to judge by what I see. When I took a peak into the Pioneer Elite AVR, I liked what I saw.... everything is laid out in nice and neat config, ample weights used in high power sections, and top grade connections. When I removed all the speakers and looked into one of the Polk Cabinets I saw a nicely built cabinet with decent but somewhat cheapened sectioning, sub-grade wiring, loose push on type connections, some connections had bent the speaker terminals over to near touching opposite polarity.

A fair, but minimal crossover network, and no breaker or fuse for protection. As to the Tweeter's that have burnt out? The involved tweet is a one and a quarter ounce assembly (this weight includes the mount bracket and face plate and all)...... I would guesstimate that around one ounce of the total weight goes to the body moulding and face plate, leaving around one quarter ounce of weight comprising the Magnet, Former, Winding, connections and Dome....... after seeing this and guesstimating at it for a while, I figured it has inadequate winding to dissipate the heat involved in a cabinet that is advertised as recommended amp power of up to 300 watts. Now, that 300 watt is not stated as a limit, rather a recommendation of amp range. ......

 anyhow.... if I had access to time travel, I would not purchased the Pioneer Elite, or the Polk speakers... to suit my tastes and wishes, I would go completely different...

but... I am Mindless after all.....


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post #33 of 36 Old 04-21-2014, 08:21 AM
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Also the higher up the line of avr you go the more crossover control you have. My low end onkyo lets me set cross over for all speakers down at 80. My higher end avr I can control each speaker's cross over down to 40, this lets me integrate my towers much better.
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post #34 of 36 Old 04-21-2014, 02:09 PM
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I am currently auditioning the TSX line in my house (TSx110B bookshelves) and am switching them out as soon as possible. We watched Pacific Rim this weekend and both my wife and I said that our ears hurt a bit. The bottom end sounded fine, but the highs may be harsh and missing mid-range. The floor standers may be different, but I didn't like what I heard. I've heard better things about the RTis, but haven't actually heard them. Maybe find them in a store near you? I found these at BB and am returning them this week. Best of luck!

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post #35 of 36 Old 07-30-2014, 07:03 PM
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?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MindlessCorpse View Post
The woofers in the TSX550t are not passive...
the tweeters are very overrated (power-wise)
and, if not too late, I might suggest going in a different direction other than polk audio speakers...   here is why....
I own a pair of the Polk Audio TSX550t 's and use them as my fronts in a home theater system (5.1 at present, but will be going to 7.1 soon)
my set-up =
Panasonic GT50 - 60 inch plasma
Pioneer Elite SC-05 AVR
1 Polk Audio CS20 center channel
2 Polk Audio TSX550t 's front channels
2 Polk Audio Series II Monitor 70's rear channels
1 Polk Audio PSW 505 sobwoofer
 I jumped into the Polk Audio speakers going by name and supposed reputation only. I wish I had gone different, but i have what I have...
 a few of the lessons I have learned (the slightly expensive way)
1) I can not speak on every other polk speaker out there, but on the TSX's, I have replaced the tweeters 3 times so far, and have only had the speakers 6 months or so. Polk wont give out the spec's so that I can choose a after market replacement, so I will stick with the original style as polk sends me new ones as I burn them out... under the 5 year warranty. the tweets in all 5 speakers seem similar, (I have replaced them in each the fronts. rears and center) the tweeter itself is a soft dome/silk design, and weighs in at around 1 and one half ounces..... very weak
The woofers in the TSX's are driver, as while replacing tweets there, I removed all speakers to have a look, they are both wired in series
2) When you set up a newer AVR, you have to select what size speakers you are running, Large or Small. If you select Large, the whole range of frequency is sent to the main speakers, and no signal is sent out the sub output... this makes owning a subwoofer pointless, or you can select the speakers as Small in which case, all the lower frequency is sent to the sub, and no low frequency to the floor speakers (or at least not enough to make any difference ), now if you set your sub at 80HZ and under, you loose all the frequency range from 80 Hz  up to wherever the mids kick in (maybe around 1500 Hz or so) so this makes buying floor standing speakers that have woofers built in a waste of money.... I have not tried wiring the front speakers to pass through the subwoofer speaker level terminals yet, that is the last option I have to make all the woofers work. I have also considered changing out the crossovers in the cabinets and wiring the woofers as low mid's and running the existing mids as high mid's... 
3) I think if I start another HT setup, I will probably give Klipsch a strong looking at... it seems their speakers are rated better... but as to the ratings, manufacturers have found ways to re-word the ratings so that they can manufacture in cheaper methods and it still looks good on paper.
 now, before the replies come in, stating that I am overdriving the Amp and sending clipped or distorted signals, look up the Pioneer SC-05 AVR, it uses the B&O designed ICE class D amp with the Nielsen corrective network. to summarize the reading for you, set at safety level 2 it will not allow the amp to clip or distort over 0.05 thd at 130 watts per channel (and yes, the Elite pushes 130 watts per channel with all channels driving)...
 What is blowing the tweets is the fact that there is not enough winding to dissipate the heat associated with the power load.
 Also with the Polk Speakers, I do occasionally hear a voice coil former slam into the back plate. Now, these floor standing Polk Audio speakers are rated to handle 300 watts continuous (on paper) so I should not be having any of these problems, but I do.
 to wrap it up... Original Poster, give a look at the Klipsch Folded Horn speakers. If you like good sound, and like to run the volume up, they may suit your needs... 

As I understand it, the AVR will shunt all frequencies below its subW crossover (typically set at 80Hz) to the subW. All frequencies above that are shunted to the towers, regardless of the tower's crossover frequency. Therefore towers are not a waste over a bookshelf speakers.
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post #36 of 36 Old 07-31-2014, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cme4brain View Post
As I understand it, the AVR will shunt all frequencies below its subW crossover (typically set at 80Hz) to the subW. All frequencies above that are shunted to the towers, regardless of the tower's crossover frequency. Therefore towers are not a waste over a bookshelf speakers.
You are correct, when you set the bass crossover, all frequencies below that point are sent to the sub output if the rear channels are set to "Small" speaker setting. And now that I have learned a bit more about this receiver, I agree front towers are needed.
When I did the original set-up and ran the MCACC feature, it automatically set the fronts and rears as Large, set like that there is no signal put through the Sub out-put jack.
(at least thats how it works on the Pioneer Elite and newer Marantz models) But if I go into the menu and select the fronts as Large and the rears as small then the receiver puts out a signal through the sub output jack. But again, in this instance I would have to stick with no need for rear towers. Satellite or bookshelf models would be ok as the lower end of the towers are unused. My rears are Polk Audio Monitor 70 Series II. When I check each of them by ear, there is no low frequency being output from the speaker. By low frequency I am estimating around say 750 and under. Most Bookshelf and satellites can handle the range that is being sent to the rear channels.
But, this is only an opinion, and I may be wrong.
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