JBL LSR305/308 Appreciation Thread - Page 36 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1051 of 1078 Old 03-09-2019, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
Just ordered a pair of 305 MKII to use for L/R for music and TV. No AVR. I want to make these Bluetooth capable to pair with phone for music and trying to figure out the best affordable option. I see Bluetooth receivers for $20-$40, they seem to have RCA and Aux connections. Can I connect to the speakers in this way or is something more elaborate needed. TV does not have RCA. HDMI and optical. Also need to connect the Tv so wondering if I can route through the bluetooth receiver for this as well, maybe with HDMI to RCA adapter as many of the Bluetooth receivers seem to have RCA connections.


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Hey Bear123, this is probably the simplest solution for you here https://www.google.com/chromecast/audio/explore/ use the optical for the tv

If you'd like to kick it up some, you can also consider a nanoavr or 2x4HD
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post #1052 of 1078 Old 03-09-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by wpbpete View Post
Hey Bear123, this is probably the simplest solution for you here https://www.google.com/chromecast/audio/explore/ use the optical for the tv



If you'd like to kick it up some, you can also consider a nanoavr or 2x4HD
The optical is to connect Cromecast to speakers and not from TV to Chromecast, I think.

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post #1053 of 1078 Old 03-09-2019, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthernCA View Post
The optical is to connect Cromecast to speakers and not from TV to Chromecast, I think.

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Yea you're right, it's an output not an input as described on their site, thanks for the correction.
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post #1054 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
The source you quoted to me said that JBL's SPL claims are "grossly exaggerated, at least for reasonable THD levels." You don't consider that to be deliberately misleading?
I certainly cannot give advice to the OP, but what might somehow be relevant:

I recommended to my friend to buy a pair of the 308p mk2's for his daughter's starter stereo and we can't achieve a peak higher than about 100dbs at 1 meter for either or both speakers and a continuous level of more than 94 db. We're hoping it might be because, before we can find a proper cd player, he's using an absolute bottom of the barrel $23 payer from walmart that might have too low of an output. Oh yea of little headroom? Anyway, we shall see.

Cabinet seems a bit skimpy, volume to weight ratio not so great, especially compared to my own M-Audio CX-5 monitors, which seem to completely pressurize my smaller room effortlessly.
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post #1055 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 11:52 AM
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With only 56 watts on hand to power the woofer, the driver which sucks the most juice, I wouldn't say the 308 mkii is a good speaker to consider to fill a room with loud output levels. I think of it as more of a near-field monitor, say to mount close, like on a desktop or on top of a mixing console.

To the best of my knowledge companies like Sony, Pioneer, Yamaha, Denon, and Marantz don't even make AVRs with this little power per speaker any more.
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post #1056 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
With only 56 watts on hand to power the woofer, the driver which sucks the most juice, I wouldn't say the 308 mkii is a good speaker to consider to fill a room with loud output levels. I think of it as more of a near-field monitor, say to mount close, like on a desktop or on top of a mixing console.

To the best of my knowledge companies like Sony, Pioneer, Yamaha, Denon, and Marantz don't even make AVRs with this little power per speaker any more.
Oh dear. I noticed the weaker amps, but from what I read everyone seemed to glow about the output levels. Still, I am talking about 1 meter readings, and they just seem way off.
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post #1057 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pthomp View Post
I certainly cannot give advice to the OP, but what might somehow be relevant:



I recommended to my friend to buy a pair of the 308p mk2's for his daughter's starter stereo and we can't achieve a peak higher than about 100dbs at 1 meter for either or both speakers and a continuous level of more than 94 db. We're hoping it might be because, before we can find a proper cd player, he's using an absolute bottom of the barrel $23 payer from walmart that might have too low of an output. Oh yea of little headroom? Anyway, we shall see.



Cabinet seems a bit skimpy, volume to weight ratio not so great, especially compared to my own M-Audio CX-5 monitors, which seem to completely pressurize my smaller room effortlessly.
I agree. The specs and some of the reviews seem exaggerated. It is a cheap speaker and for the money (I paid 89 dollars) it may not be bad.

In my case when driven by iPhone or Samsung Galaxy headphone jack, I could barely get 80 dB at 1 meter. And when driven by my projector aux out, it barely gave 85 dB at 1 meter.

So, no. The input were sufficient. Not sure how did they do the testing to get 108dB for 305.

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post #1058 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 12:44 PM
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I agree. The specs and some of the reviews seem exaggerated. It is a cheap speaker and for the money (I paid 89 dollars) it may not be bad.

In my case when driven by iPhone or Samsung Galaxy headphone jack, I could barely get 80 dB at 1 meter. And when driven by my projector aux out, it barely gave 85 dB at 1 meter.

So, no. The input were sufficient. Not sure how did they do the testing to get 108dB for 305.

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OMG. My stupid friend is too lazy to send them back because he knows his kid doesn't really notice anything. But now I'm responsible for this horrid transgression of headroom, not to mention build quality. This is the only time every piece of audio equipment I obtained was this bad and its not even for me! Why or why did I ever agree to this terrible responsiblity...
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post #1059 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 01:15 PM
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3 Series sacrifices output for LF extension. Those CX-5's aren't tuned as low as the 308s so it's not surprising they could get a little louder. You did try them in your friends system right? Also, you're comparing a speaker that retailed for $400 per in 2009 to a speaker that's $150-$200 today.

Why do you want to blow out her eardrums?

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post #1060 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 01:22 PM
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3 Series sacrifices output for LF extension. Those CX-5's aren't tuned as low as the 308s so it's not surprising they could get a little louder. You did try them in your friends system right? Also, you're comparing a speaker that retailed for $400 per in 2009 to a speaker that's $150-$200 today.

Why do you want to blow out her eardrums?
I was just surprised by the output (and relative build quality). My friend did not connect them but I didn't see any reason they would respond that much differently, given that its only a matter of using one cd player versus another. But no, I don't want to blow out my 58 year old eardrums, it's just that 94db seems a little low for a max continuous at 1 meter, if only because sometimes a given person may want to hear it at least a little louder.
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post #1061 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 02:02 PM
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I was just surprised by the output (and relative build quality). My friend did not connect them but I didn't see any reason they would respond that much differently, given that its only a matter of using one cd player versus another. But no, I don't want to blow out my 58 year old eardrums, it's just that 94db seems a little low for a max continuous at 1 meter, if only because sometimes a given person may want to hear it at least a little louder.
It is just that we are surprised at the specs and if they are wrong, at JBL's audacity in publishing them.

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post #1062 of 1078 Old 03-27-2019, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Pthomp View Post
I was just surprised by the output (and relative build quality). My friend did not connect them but I didn't see any reason they would respond that much differently, given that its only a matter of using one cd player versus another. But no, I don't want to blow out my 58 year old eardrums, it's just that 94db seems a little low for a max continuous at 1 meter, if only because sometimes a given person may want to hear it at least a little louder.
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It is just that we are surprised at the specs and if they are wrong, at JBL's audacity in publishing them.
I'd say it's operator error for both of you.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-sp...l#post57715080

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-sp...l#post57731034
nbk13nw and m. zillch like this.

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post #1063 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 05:45 AM
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Wow, those are startling measurements. I would love for it to be an error on my part because then I could fix it! Its just that I honestly don't know what I might be doing wrong or what I could do to correct things. Any advice would be appreciated as I've grown rather frustrated.
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post #1064 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 06:00 AM
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You could try measuring the actual voltage from your source loaded and unloaded to see if the impedance from the speaker's input is loading down the cheapy player.

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post #1065 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 07:45 AM
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You could try measuring the actual voltage from your source loaded and unloaded to see if the impedance from the speaker's input is loading down the cheapy player.
I would also love if I was wrong and could fix this.

have not measured the voltage but tried several sources. All of which work well with other amps and provide acceptable speaker volumes.

None of them resulted in high SPL with 305. After spending a few days i gave up.


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post #1066 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 08:23 AM
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Really, a 56W class D amp exclusively dedicated to a fairly efficient 8" driver should be enough to produce fairly high SPL if everything is set up properly, including adequate input voltage. The part I don't get about the 308 is JBL's decision to use an equally powerful 56W amp for the tweeter as tweeters typically draw less than half the power of woofers in a 2-way speaker. I think the ex-JBL guys who started Kali Audio got it right by including a 60W dedicated woofer amp in their similar LP-8 and a less powerful 40W amp for the tweeter. It would be interesting to see a thorough comparison review of the 308 vs. the LP-8.

Getting clean fairly high SPL is a different matter. When noaudiophile.com reviewed the LSR308 he was satisfied by their performance at background music listening levels but really disappointed by the lack of clean output at higher SPL. He even tried some speaker cabinet mods that had no effect. In a last ditch attempt to get clear high SPL he finally tried crossing over to his subs at 80 Hz and made the following comments about the results he got:

Quote:
With the low frequencies taken over by the subwoofers, the JBL's sound sublime.

If someone is hunting for controlled/limited dispersion these are the speakers to get. They get loud and stay clean, and they do everything that is asked of them.

This speaker design asks a lot from the woofer. It's supposed to play clean and flat down to 37Hz, control directivity of the midrange, and crossover cleanly to the tweeter. I have never heard a two-way speaker that played as clean and deep as a good three-way, and these are no different.

The sensitivity seems to be slightly lower than the LSR305's but these 308's can get a little louder due to the extra power. The clarity and impact of the midbass is excellent using even a rudimentary crossover to a subwoofer.

While these speakers are not everything I had hoped, they are still the best living room speaker I've reviewed.

If you have not heard horn or waveguide speakers and they interest you in the slightest make it a point to pick these up. They are an excellent example of the breed.
So even though most people seem to judge the 308s as full-rangers it seems that optimum performance at higher SPL is achieved by crossing over to a sub.
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post #1067 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 09:05 AM
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Thanks to all for your very interesting input. I am running a sub using an rca splitter (running without sub/splitter didn't affect the. JBLs output), however the JBLs are running full range so I'll have to see how use the sub so the signal reaching the JBL is filtered at 80 hertz.

Anyway, my thanks once again to all.
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post #1068 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pthomp View Post
Thanks to all for your very interesting input. I am running a sub using an rca splitter (running without sub/splitter didn't affect the. JBLs output), however the JBLs are running full range so I'll have to see how use the sub so the signal reaching the JBL is filtered at 80 hertz.

Anyway, my thanks once again to all.
Just a heads up: Some subs imply that they filter the "out to main speakers" ports, what you seem to be talking about, but in truth they pass the full range signal.
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post #1069 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 01:00 PM
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My bad. Otherwise you couldn't daisy from one sub to another could you? Any tips on how I get an 80 hertz and above to the 308ps while using the sub?

Thanks again for pointing that out.
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post #1070 of 1078 Old 03-28-2019, 01:05 PM
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You could buy an "active electronic crossover" which does truly give you high pass and low pass outs at the frequency (and usually levels) of your choice.

People in the subwoofer section of the forum they might be aware of which are the good ones to look for.

UPdate: Passive filters in the line might work but usually don't offer as much control. Example I have never worked with: Harrison labs http://www.hlabs.com/products/crossovers/

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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post #1071 of 1078 Old 04-21-2019, 09:30 PM
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My bad. Otherwise you couldn't daisy from one sub to another could you? Any tips on how I get an 80 hertz and above to the 308ps while using the sub?

Thanks again for pointing that out.
The "Rolls Stereo Two Way Crossover" will do the trick. I use it to integrate a subwoofer to 2 ch systems driven by older model integrated amps or preamps with poor or no subwoofer management.

Also to get maximum output from the JBLs with the cleanest possible input signal, it is advisable to use a device such as the "Rolls Promatch". I use this device to feed pro-amps with consumer equipment. This device is optional because the JBL supports dual input sensitivity settings (+4dBv and -10dBv) for pro and consumer peripherals respectively.

If you are feeding the JBL with single ended input from consumer cd player, with a volume control in the middle, make sure to set the input sensitivity at -10dBv setting. If your peripheral cannot generate 2Vrms signal, you won't be able to maximize JBL's internal amp capability. That's the purpose of the "Rolls Promatch" I suggested above.

I have the JBL 306p MKii. They sound great with proper subwoofer integration and when fed with clean "balanced" input signal.
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post #1072 of 1078 Old 04-22-2019, 02:13 AM
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The "Rolls Stereo Two Way Crossover" will do the trick. I use it to integrate a subwoofer to 2 ch systems driven by older model integrated amps or preamps with poor or no subwoofer management.



Also to get maximum output from the JBLs with the cleanest possible input signal, it is advisable to use a device such as the "Rolls Promatch". I use this device to feed pro-amps with consumer equipment. This device is optional because the JBL supports dual input sensitivity settings (+4dBv and -10dBv) for pro and consumer peripherals respectively.



If you are feeding the JBL with single ended input from consumer cd player, with a volume control in the middle, make sure to set the input sensitivity at -10dBv setting. If your peripheral cannot generate 2Vrms signal, you won't be able to maximize JBL's internal amp capability. That's the purpose of the "Rolls Promatch" I suggested above.



I have the JBL 306p MKii. They sound great with proper subwoofer integration and when fed with clean "balanced" input signal.
Thank you. Maybe I need a Rolls promatch. I can hardly get 85dB from my single 305p when driven from an iPhone or a Bluetooth receiver.
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post #1073 of 1078 Old 04-22-2019, 05:14 PM
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Thank you. Maybe I need a Rolls promatch. I can hardly get 85dB from my single 305p when driven from an iPhone or a Bluetooth receiver.
Another alternative is to use a tube buffer (see picture) to raise the input signal to desired level. But this is not the ideal solution when using the JBLs for sound production.
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post #1074 of 1078 Old 04-25-2019, 09:53 AM
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Another alternative is to use a tube buffer (see picture) to raise the input signal to desired level. But this is not the ideal solution when using the JBLs for sound production.
Yep. That will work too. But for a $90 speakers, I don't want to spend more money to sound them louder. I just put them in my study where I listen to low volume music. But really a waste for a good speaker because I did not research them enough before buying. The do need a professional pre amp output.
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post #1075 of 1078 Old 04-25-2019, 10:12 AM
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The do need a professional pre amp output.
What consumer pre amp did you use to make an assessment "they aren't up to snuff"? The preouts on AVRs often don't cut it since they are more of an after thought; I'm talking about a real deal preamp like an Adcom GFP815.
https://www.amazon.com/Adcom-GFP-815...oding=UTF8&me=
https://adcom.com/GFP-815-manual.pdf

Notice it has an output of 9Vrms. That blows away even the best AVR pre-outs.

--
Also, if funds are tight, have you tried a device like this? https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Audio-...ustomerReviews

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post #1076 of 1078 Old 04-25-2019, 12:01 PM
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I had used the pre-outs on a Denon X4000 to generate the compression sweeps that I did. No problem hitting mid 90s spl @ 7 feet with 2 speakers.

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post #1077 of 1078 Old 04-25-2019, 12:21 PM
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An upscale Denon AVR is no slouch and they tend to have the best (most robust) preamp level outputs out there, as AVRs go.

Example measured by Audioholics through an Audio Precision audio analyzer:

"Denon AVR-X3300W Preamplifier Measurements

One thing I really love about Denon receivers is they NEVER skimp on their preamp out circuits. Like past models, the AVR-X3300W had an ample amount of drive. I measured a whopping 4.5Vrms unclipped output, which is more than double the voltage needed to make virtually any amplifier reach full rated power. Yamaha please pay attention and step your game up particularly with your AV receivers in this price range that clip above 1.6Vrms. A preamp output of less than 2Vrms is unacceptable in my book.
. . .."

plus
they maintain low noise which may not be true with cheap designs:

"The AVR-X3300W preamp output exhibited a low noise floor (90dB) unweighted with 100mV input drive"

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post #1078 of 1078 Old 04-25-2019, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
What consumer pre amp did you use to make an assessment "they aren't up to snuff"? The preouts on AVRs often don't cut it since they are more of an after thought; I'm talking about a real deal preamp like an Adcom GFP815.

https://www.amazon.com/Adcom-GFP-815...oding=UTF8&me=

https://adcom.com/GFP-815-manual.pdf



Notice it has an output of 9Vrms. That blows away even the best AVR pre-outs.



--

Also, if funds are tight, have you tried a device like this? https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Audio-...ustomerReviews
Yes. You are correct. I used the auxiliary outs from my projector as well as from my bluetooth receivers. I also tried headphone out from iPhone and Galaxy. I wanted to use the speakers outside with my smartphone.

These are the items generally found in a consumer home and were not suitable for input to my JBL 305p (paid $90). I mean they did work but the volume was low (about 75 dB or so IIRC)

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