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Please help choosing JTR or SVS

21K views 145 replies 28 participants last post by  outlawjeff 
#1 ·
I was about to pull the trigger on SVS after months of googling and browsing this forum. But then the JTR keeps popping up.

I cant audition the JTR so any feedback is welcome. There aren't many demo on youtube on this brand.

I was having difficulty auditioning the SVS. Finally managed to audition the U.Bookshelf but not the U. Tower. I actually have had to travel to a neighbouring country to do this. My impression is that it sounded nice but from the reviews, I expected more.

The room size is:
Width (screen side) : 188inch
Length : 338 inch
Height : 118 inch

The system will be HT:music 70:30
If it is relevant, the kind of music I enjoy would be rock (eg: the sound of silence by disturbed), vocal, pop, instruments.

I originally was going for:
Svs Ultra Tower x3 for LCR
Svs U. Surround x2 for sides
Svs U. Bookshelf x2 for rear
Svs elevation x6 for atmos
Svs 2xPb-16
Emotiva xpa-dr3 for LCR
Emo xpa5 x2 for the rest
Marantz AV8805

If we keep the discussion on the speakers alone, which one would you suggest:

Option 1: $10.800
As planned above $10.800

Option 2: $13.600
3xJRT215
2xSVS U.S
2xSVS U.B
6xSVS elevation
Reason: read somewhere that JTR215 does not need sub.
U.T spec is 28hz-32khz.
PB16 spec is 13-280hz
215RT spec is 18hz-24khz

Question:
A. Do I really not need sub with the JTR ? PB16 will output as low as 13hz as opposed to 18hz on 215RT
B. The U.T upper freq is 32 Khz vs JRT 24khz. Will this likely to matter ?
C. SVS touts "timbre matching" between all their lines. Will mixing JTR for LCR and SVS for the rest be a good idea ?

Note: price difference is high but probably acceptable.

Option 3: $11.300 - $12.800
3x U.B (bookshelf) LCR or
3x U.T LCR
2X U.S
2X U.B
6X elevation
2X JTR CAP4000ULF
Reason: the CAP will provide lower freq so probably can save some on the tower.

Question:
A. is having 215RT preferable over 2xCAP4000?
B. Would you recommend CAP1400 or CAPS2 over CAP4000 on this option ? (More savings)

Note: still a bit over budget but manageable

Option 4: $ 18.600
3x JTR215RT
2x old polk tower rear ($0)
2x old polk surround sides($0)
6x new SVS elevation
2x CAP4000ULF

Note: spend everything on LCR and sub (and add atmos) but use a set of existing polk speakers that I already have for about a decade. Sounded "enough" back then...

Question:
A. Will the system be "balanced" with this mix & match brands ?

Additional general questions:
A1. Will the Emo XPA-DR3 be enough to drive the JTR 215RT ?
The spec shows 2000Watt (!!) for each 215RT. And yet the reviews say that this is a sensitive speaker requiring minimum amp.

Thank you for the feedback.
 
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#2 ·
I was about to pull the trigger on SVS after months of googling and browsing this forum. But then the JTR keeps popping up.



I cant audition the JTR so any feedback is welcome. There aren't many demo on youtube on this brand.



I was having difficulty auditioning the SVS. Finally managed to audition the U.Bookshelf but not the U. Tower. I actually have had to travel to a neighbouring country to do this. My impression is that it sounded nice but from the reviews, I expected more.



The room size is:

Width (screen side) : 188inch

Length : 338 inch

Height : 118 inch



The system will be HT:music 70:30

If it is relevant, the kind of music I enjoy would be rock (eg: the sound of silence by disturbed), vocal, pop, instruments.



I originally was going for:

Svs Ultra Tower x3 for LCR

Svs U. Surround x2 for sides

Svs U. Bookshelf x2 for rear

Svs elevation x6 for atmos

Svs 2xPb-16

Emotiva xpa-dr3 for LCR

Emo xpa5 x2 for the rest

Marantz AV8805



If we keep the discussion on the speakers alone, which one would you suggest:



Option 1: $10.800

As planned above $10.800



Option 2: $13.600

3xJRT215

2xSVS U.S

2xSVS U.B

6xSVS elevation

Reason: read somewhere that JTR215 does not need sub.

U.T spec is 28hz-32khz.

PB16 spec is 13-280hz

215RT spec is 18hz-24khz



Question:

A. Do I really not need sub with the JTR ? PB16 will output as low as 13hz as opposed to 18hz on 215RT

B. The U.T upper freq is 32 Khz vs JRT 24khz. Will this likely to matter ?

C. SVS touts "timbre matching" between all their lines. Will mixing JTR for LCR and SVS for the rest be a good idea ?



Note: price difference is high but probably acceptable.



Option 3: $11.300 - $12.800

3x U.B (bookshelf) LCR or

3x U.T LCR

2X U.S

2X U.B

6X elevation

2X JTR CAP4000ULF

Reason: the CAP will provide lower freq so probably can save some on the tower.



Question:

A. is having 215RT preferable over 2xCAP4000?

B. Would you recommend CAP1400 or CAPS2 over CAP4000 on this option ? (More savings)



Note: still a bit over budget but manageable



Option 4: $ 18.600

3x JTR215RT

2x old polk tower rear ($0)

2x old polk surround sides($0)

6x new SVS elevation

2x CAP4000ULF



Note: spend everything on LCR and sub (and add atmos) but use a set of existing polk speakers that I already have for about a decade. Sounded "enough" back then...



Question:

A. Will the system be "balanced" with this mix & match brands ?



Additional general questions:

A1. Will the Emo XPA-DR3 be enough to drive the JTR 215RT ?

The spec shows 2000Watt (!!) for each 215RT. And yet the reviews say that this is a sensitive speaker requiring minimum amp.



Thank you for the feedback.


You may be better off asking this question in the JTR speaker thread as well.

My bias would be option 3.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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#5 ·
I am not really impressed with SVS Ultra subs SB13s that I have. JTR, Seaton or PSA will be better IMO.
PSA updated their lines, V3611.

But I like the finish on SVS Ultras, with that piano gloss (so beautifu !), display, remote, it's hard to decide, so it's trade off I guess.
 
#7 ·
Save yourself $3000 by getting the Noesis 212HTR over the 215RT for LCR - that money can be better put into beefy subwoofers.


I would skip the SVS US and UB speakers for JBL speakers for surround - they will match better and cost much less. I would also suggest JBL in-ceiling speakers for Atmos instead of the SVS Elevations - you also don't need 6 Atmos speakers.


The JTR speakers are so sensitive that they can play WAY above Reference level with a simple AVR - no need to use an amp to drive them. Same with most JBL speakers. Of course, if you're using an AVP you need amps - you will need a total of 11 amp channels for a proper Atmos setup.
 
#8 · (Edited)
@sigpig Thanks for the info. I havent really thought about changing the surrounds as an option. Can you tell me which model jbl you are talking about ?

Also, I am interested on how to tell if the surrounds will "match better" to the JTR ?

212HTR is 60hz-24khz. Does that mean I will need a sub ?

The way I understand the posts is that a AVR xan drive the noesis but for the 215RT to run the low frequency well, it needs more power ( 2000w ?? ).
Is this incorrect ?

Edit: btw, for that matter, why 212HTR @$2600 (60hz-24khz) over 212T @$2000 (35hz-20khz)
or 212RT @$2800 (35hz-24khz) ?
 
#9 · (Edited)
@sigpig Thanks for the info. I havent really thought about changing the surrounds as an option. Can you tell me which model jbl you are talking about ?

Also, I am interested on how to tell if the surrounds will "match better" to the JTR ?

212HTR is 60hz-24khz. Does that mean I will need a sub ?

The way I understand the posts is that a AVR xan drive the noesis but for the 215RT to run the low frequency well, it needs more power ( 2000w ?? ).
Is this incorrect ?

Hi,

Those are actually very efficient speakers which can produce very high SPL with relatively low voltage. There are several things about your options that struck me. First, I don't know whether I would try to swallow the elephant that is a first-class HT system all in one gulp. I would instead concentrate on getting the basic building blocks in place, and then adding to the system in stages.

I believe that you have correctly identified the three speakers in your front soundstage as the most important ones, but whether you will be content to have an HT system that operates without subwoofers is another question. In theory, the 212RT for instance, can take the place of subwoofers, if you push enough volume through them, and if you don't need to go extremely low. But, in practice, their ideal placement as speakers may not be where subwoofers would have worked best with room modes.

(Seeing your edit, I absolutely do think that you could move down to smaller model speakers. Again, that would leave you more funds for first-class subwoofers such as Cap 2400's. As you noted, most of the JTR speakers are intended to achieve very high volume levels, but they are designed to crossover to subs at about 60 or 80Hz.)

So, I would leave myself some margin to add subwoofers if necessary. You also won't have the same means of increasing bass, proportional to other frequencies, that you would have with independently powered subwoofers with their own volume controls. That shouldn't be a factor for pop music (or for most music) but it certainly can be for 5.1 movies with strong low-bass content. My guess is that you will end up wanting subs, and JTR subs (such as Cap 1400's or Cap 2400's) will be much more powerful for the money than PB16's.

I would perhaps go ahead and add surround speakers initially to get me to a 5.1 system, but honestly, I might economize with respect to adding the other speakers all at once. That is what I meant by adding the most important building blocks first. To me, it's a matter of prioritizing what will have the most long-term impact on your sound, and what you won't ever need to subsequently upgrade, versus trying to do everything at once only to discover that you may have long-term holes in your system.

In my opinion, your front soundstage (and in my opinion, your subwoofers for 5.1 movies) will be the most important components and timbre match will be important for those front three speakers. Timbre match will be increasingly less important for surround speakers, and for the subsequent speakers, simply due to the nature and quantity of content they play. Unless you are using something like multi-channel stereo, I think that most of the time, the additional surround and Atmos speakers will mainly be providing ambient effects and reinforcement to the primary content carried by the front three speakers.

I'm not trying to take you too far away from your additional plan, but I did want to give you some things to think about with respect to prioritization. :)

Regards,
Mike
 
#10 ·
@mthomas47 Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I agree with you in regards to prioritization. That was supposed to be option 4 (although I may have picked the wrong models because it ends up as being the most expensive option...)

A factor that I havent discussed is that I am located on the other side of the world. So I will be shipping these via ocean freight. And with ocean freight, multiple small shipments are much more expensive. This is why I'm trying to do this in one go.

And also, there isnt a great secondary market here. So once I buy it, I'd be stuck with it for good.

Anyhow, I dont use multi channel stereo. If anything, I have noticed that for music, I like 2.0 better than 2.1
This is one reason why I'm going for the better LCR.

I was hoping to compensate this by not having to get the subwoofers.

The positioning issue sure does add complexity to it. Although I doubt that at these size and weight, I'd be trying many positions.

I think you are right on the size of the cap though. I'll look at the smaller ones.
 
#11 ·
It takes a LOT of amplifier power to play bass and LFE content at reference levels. That's why the Captivator 1400 and 2400 have 1400W and 2400W amps, respectively. This allows your AVR (or power amp) to power your LCR/surround speakers fro, 80Hz on up - frequencies that are much easier to drive.
Since you prefer music in 2.0, then get the 212RTs as they play down to 35Hz. However, a properly integrated and calibrated system will play music louder and with less distortion in 2.1 than 2.0.


You could use these JBL speakers for surrounds: https://www.jblsynthesis.com/productdetail/scl-4.html They aew fairly efficient, and would match the JTRs well. The bonus is that they are in-wall speakers, so they won't take up any real estate in your room.
 
#12 ·
I have the JTR 212HT-LP, and recently purchased the JTR215RT x2 for LR and the 215RM for the center as well as Single 8s for surrounds and atmos.

If I was given the choice to do it all over, I would buy the 210RM plus stands for LRC, Single 8s for surrounds and two S2s for the subs.

I spent too much on amplifiers to power the 215RT, they are HUGE and don't really allow great placement in my room. I would have saved a lot of money going with the 210RM, been able to power them by an AVR, and I like the bass better with multiple subs vs the 215RTs.


That said, the sound stage of the 215RT is HUGE. They are awesome speakers.

3x210RM = 6900
8xSingle 8s = 7200 - 4 Atmos is plenty :p
2xS2 = 6600

Jeff will give you a 10% discount if you have 10 or more items so you would be around that $19,000 mark with shipping. This would be an amazing system that you wouldn't have upgraditis over. If you wanted to save you could get some different speakers as your atmos speakers.
 
#146 ·
@jjackkrash
Hi, recently joined here and I checked out these JBLs. However, I found that their power rating is really high even though they are efficient speakers.
Aren't those more suitable for a larger room. let's say a 80-foot room?
Or the power rating doesn't matter as long as I don't need them to be as loud as they can get?

Thanks for help.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for the feedback @sigpig, @casperslide, and @jjrackkrash.

So here is what I gathered so far:
1. Low freq is requires more power and so separate sub is prefered over mains that will go low.
2. 212RT is more appropriate for my need instead of 215RT due to price and 215RT requiring too much power.
Question: 212RT spec shows the need for same amount of power though?

3. For surrounds and heights: svs and polk surrounds does not match well with jtr. Most recommended match is jbl. Preferably jbl scs8 or jbl control 328c.
In between these two, I would probably go for jbl 328c because I'm not too keen on built-in speakers.

4. Sub is still necessary regardless of which mains were chosen.

So far the conclusion would lean towards:
As recommended by @casperslide
3x210RM = $6900
8xSingle 8s = $7200 (4 Atmos)
2xS2 = $6600
Total = $20,700 (disc to 19000)

Or
3x212RT = $8400
8xJBL SC8 @500 = $4000
2xcap2400 @2600 = $5200
Total = $17,600

I was not anticipating this but it seems that the (in)compatibility of surrounds has become important and increased the total price quite significantly.

Can I ask why JBL is recommended ? Is it from personal experience, or because of the spec ?
What do I look for to figure that a product will be compatible with the jtr mains ?

Again, thanks for the advise guys
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the feedback @sigpig, @casperslide, and @jjrackkrash.



So here is what I gathered so far:

1. Low freq is requires more power and so separate sub is prefered over mains that will go low.

2. 212RT is more appropriate for my need instead of 215RT due to price and 215RT requiring too much power.

Question: 212RT spec shows the need for same amount of power though?



3. For surrounds and heights: svs and polk surrounds does not match well with jtr. Most recommended match is jbl. Preferably jbl scs8 or jbl control 328c.

In between these two, I would probably go for jbl 328c because I'm not too keen on built-in speakers.



4. Sub is still necessary regardless of which mains were chosen.



So far the conclusion would lean towards:

As recommended by @casperslide

3x210RM = $6900

8xSingle 8s = $7200 (4 Atmos)

2xS2 = $6600

Total = $20,700 (disc to 19000)



Or

3x212RT = $8400

8xJBL SC8 @500 = $4000

2xcap2400 @2600 = $5200

Total = $17,600



I was not anticipating this but it seems that the (in)compatibility of surrounds has become important and increased the total price quite significantly.



Can I ask why JBL is recommended ? Is it from personal experience, or because of the spec ?

What do I look for to figure that a product will be compatible with the jtr mains ?



Again, thanks for the advise guys


I think this was suggested but if you wanted to save some cash you could go with a all PSA speaker set up. They are not far off from the JTR 212s. The JTR will just play louder and I tell you PSA play very loud. I don’t see anyone really listening at those deafening levels. @raynist has had both and has said there is very little difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#17 · (Edited)
I was about to pull the trigger on SVS after months of googling and browsing this forum. But then the JTR keeps popping up.

I cant audition the JTR so any feedback is welcome. .
I don't want to muddy the waters but I did not like the JTR speakers as much as I like their subs ( I own the Captivator S2 and S1) and ended up purchasing all Procella speakers for my theater. Procella should be much easier to find in Europe (is that where you are?) and the P8 for LCR are much, much, smaller and lighter and yet they are extremely dynamic. Honestly the JTR and the Procella are capable of ear bleeding levels.

The JTR had too much sibilance for my taste but I believe Jeff has updated them since I auditioned a few years ago. The JTR speakers are ultra heavy and truly difficult to move around, much less try to ship to someone if you want to sell them someday.
 
#19 ·
Since the PSA MTM210T kept being recommended here, I looked it up also. My impression is that it is basically comparable to the SVS UT ? Many reviews seem to favor neither the UT nor the MTm. How would it be an improvement over option 1 ?

I am liking the JBL SCS8 also.

After considering the options being given here, the JTR mains are probably out of my league. The JTR mains + sub combo is looking too expensive. I like the 212RT but hesitate on getting the lower model JTR because my situation will make it difficult to upgrade. So perhaps I should wait a few more years for that. (Given my luck I'm betting that these will go up in price by the time I think I'll be ready. The JTR just increased in price in early June. A few days after I learnt about it.)
I think the limit would be stretching the budget to $12k-$13k from option 1.


Can I ask if the JTR Cap need to be positioned away from the walls ? I have space for about 1m (3ft-ish) deep for the subs. This will be at the front wall behind the screen. I dont think moving around a sub this size is feasible for the room.

While the room will be used more for HT, if I think about it, I actually appreciate speaker differences more during music listening. My preference is to have the singer sound like they are in the room (is this how "sound stage" is defined ?), over loudness.
 
#23 ·
Since the PSA MTM210T kept being recommended here, I looked it up also. My impression is that it is basically comparable to the SVS UT ? Many reviews seem to favor neither the UT nor the MTm. How would it be an improvement over option 1 ?



I am liking the JBL SCS8 also.



After considering the options being given here, the JTR mains are probably out of my league. The JTR mains + sub combo is looking too expensive. I like the 212RT but hesitate on getting the lower model JTR because my situation will make it difficult to upgrade. So perhaps I should wait a few more years for that. (Given my luck I'm betting that these will go up in price by the time I think I'll be ready. The JTR just increased in price in early June. A few days after I learnt about it.)

I think the limit would be stretching the budget to $12k-$13k from option 1.





Can I ask if the JTR Cap need to be positioned away from the walls ? I have space for about 1m (3ft-ish) deep for the subs. This will be at the front wall behind the screen. I dont think moving around a sub this size is feasible for the room.



While the room will be used more for HT, if I think about it, I actually appreciate speaker differences more during music listening. My preference is to have the singer sound like they are in the room (is this how "sound stage" is defined ?), over loudness.


I have compared the ultra and the PSA. There is no comparison between them. The clarity, soundstage, imaging and dynamics on the PSA are much better and so is their efficiency. Check out the the PSA owner speaker thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
Perhaps I'd approach it this way to better determine the value.
I found this youtube demo of the 210RT. Lets use this model as a baseline:


Gow would you rate these speakers agains the 210RT ?
210RT / 38-24Khz / $2500
212T / 35-20khz / $2000
212RT / 35-24khz / $2800
212HTR / 60-24khz / $2600
212HT / 60-20khz / $1700

Aside from the frequency, I cant really tell the difference between the 212 models. Is the difference between 20khz vs 24khz between T and RT worth $800/piece ?

Is the 212HT good enough for music ?
 
#21 ·
Perhaps I'd approach it this way to better determine the value.
I found this youtube demo of the 210RT. Lets use this model as a baseline:
https://youtu.be/7J8IyZ6idxQ

Gow would you rate these speakers agains the 210RT ?
210RT / 38-24Khz / $2500
212T / 35-20khz / $2000
212RT / 35-24khz / $2800
212HTR / 60-24khz / $2600
212HT / 60-20khz / $1700

Aside from the frequency, I cant really tell the difference between the 212 models. Is the difference between 20khz vs 24khz between T and RT worth $800/piece ?

Is the 212HT good enough for music ?

Is this price per speaker ? pair, am I looking at close to $10,000 territory ? This must sound really good ! That's like fighting against high-end Focal, Sonus Faber, Totem etc.
 
#31 ·
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-theater-speaker-kits/home-theater-series/volt.html

The JBL’s would work well also.

He reason JBL and DIY Soundgroup are better is that they are similar designs with compression drivers and are very efficient.

Those JTR 212 HTR/RT’s are (under) rated at 101db per watt. A typical 87-89db rated speaker will not be able to keep up with the JTR’s at higher volumes.

Worst case try them out and see, you may have to move the surrounds closer to the main seating position.
 
#34 ·
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-theater-speaker-kits/home-theater-series/volt.html

The JBL’s would work well also.

He reason JBL and DIY Soundgroup are better is that they are similar designs with compression drivers and are very efficient.

Those JTR 212 HTR/RT’s are (under) rated at 101db per watt. A typical 87-89db rated speaker will not be able to keep up with the JTR’s at higher volumes.
Thanks for the info @raynist.
I see...
So the sensitivity is more important than I had previously thought. Learned something today...

I'm leaning more towards the JBL SCS8 right now, but I'm liking the Volt also.
 
#38 ·
Where do you live? Not sure if you can audition locally.
@carp has heard both the 2 way CD and the newer one way cd. His reviews and impressions on the JTR speakers convinced me to give them a try.
 
#42 · (Edited)
@raynist, I am in Indonesia and pretty sure there is no way to audition it anywhere near by.

Can you point me to where the review by @carp is ?
I believe there is a guy on the JTR speaker thread from Indonesia. I will try to find his username.

I will try to find the posts by @carp this evening.

The user is @coolgeek

He is in Malaysia not Indonesia, but looks like you could be close depending on where in Malaysia.
 
#44 ·
I say go for the high end CD. I say that because I have owned the 212 HTR's for a couple years, then I owned the 215 RT's for a couple years, and I've had the 210 RT's in my room for a few weeks and the 212 T's for a couple weeks.

In a nutshell, the higher end CD is worth it. Even on movies it makes a difference, but on music it's quite a significant difference.

For 2 channel music the 210 RT is my all time favorite speaker. However... I haven't heard the 212 RT and I have a feeling that I would like it even more since it combines the crazy sensitivity of the 212 HTR I used to own (105-106 sensitivity, not 101 rating JTR gives it) combined with extending to the low 30's hz range would be so awesome. Maybe not though, there is something to be said about how "small" the 210 is, and it can easily be used without subs for music. Placement becomes easier with a smaller speaker.

The 212 T's are nice... but will never have that smooth sound that you can get with the better CD. I read thorugh the thread quickly, but I think the thread starter says he is 30 percent music?

If he buys the JTR's with the higher end CD he will end up with a much higher music percentage than that. :D

If it were me... I would buy some 212 RT's and "get by" without the really low stuff until I saved up for some subs.

I should say though that I'm currently drinking heavily on my back porch since it's actually nice and cool for once tonight so I hope my advice makes sense. I'll update tomorrow if I read this and it makes no sense. :laugh:
 
#50 ·
In a nutshell, the higher end CD is worth it. Even on movies it makes a difference, but on music it's quite a significant difference.
Thank you. This is what I was looking for. A first person review of what the difference between the CD.

For 2 channel music the 210 RT is my all time favorite speaker.
Yes, this model is probably the only one with a "proper" recording on youtube that I thought it has something special about it. I'm hoping the 212 would be better than the 210...

but I think the thread starter says he is 30 percent music?
Yes

If he buys the JTR's with the higher end CD he will end up with a much higher music percentage than that. :D
:laugh: I'll drink to that

If it were me... I would buy some 212 RT's and "get by" without the really low stuff until I saved up for some subs.
I'm thinking that if I can squeeze the sub in for now, I can probably get by with lesser sound affect. So I'd delay the ear level surrounds for now.

I should say though that I'm currently drinking heavily
That is how I get some of my good ideas. Perhaps with a few sip, I'll convince myself on the RT over the T

Thank you @carp
 
#45 ·
@mthomas47, solid feedback as usual, but also remember the OP indicated he saves big on shipping if he can get everything he needs now. I think at $300 a pop, it is probably worth getting 4 more SCS8s on the boat now rather than waiting till later, especially since I believe the sensitivity difference between to Polks and JTR's is going to be a real challenge when it comes time to level match.
 
#51 ·
@mthomas47, I think at $300 a pop, it is probably worth getting 4 more SCS8s on the boat now rather than waiting till later, especially since I believe the sensitivity difference between to Polks and JTR's is going to be a real challenge when it comes time to level match.
The shipment part is true. It will probably cost me more than a Cap4000.
Unfortunately I dont think I can squeeze in more for the remaining JBL.
The good thing is they are rather small compared to the JTR, getting them later is much more feasible than getting a tower or sub separately.

So I think the plan is shaping up nicely.
 
#48 ·
if in kuala lumpur...I would visit singapore for deals local...
 
#55 ·
Ok. So I have let all the info sink in and have decided on the speakers. I think I will go with the 212RT. Thank you again for all of your advise guys.

I actually have another question in relation to the electronics.

Which of these scenarios are preferable for the amps

Scenario 1: $3600
LCR 212RT =
xpa-dr3 600W@4ohm/ch
Remaining speakers JBL SCS8, Polk tower&surround:
xpa5-gen3 300W/8ohm/ch
and existing
Outlaw 7100 100w/8ohm/ch

Concerns:
A. The 212RT is rated at 2000W. Will the xpa3 at only 600w be enough ? Am I losing 2.0 performance due to this ?
Am I risking the speaker by underpowering it ?

Scenario 2: $4,000
LR mains 212RT:
2x XPA-dr1 1000w/4ohm/ch
Center 212RT +
ear level JBL SCS8, Polk tower and surround:
1x XPA5-gen3 (I think it can run each channel at different impendance) 300W/8ohm/4ch + 490W/4ohm/center channel.
Atmos channels:
Outlaw 7100 100w/8ohm/ch

Concern:
A. The 212RT is rated at 2000W. Will the xpa-dr1 at 1000w be enough ? Am I losing 2.0 performance due to this ?
Am I risking the speaker by underpowering it ?

B. Is it a bad idea to differentiate the amp used for the center channel vs the ones used for the LR channel ? Will it be very obvious ?

I know that the 212RT are sensitive. But (I think I may have mentioned this elsewhere) the spec also states that it needs 2000W. The 215RT also had the same spec and it was mentioned that it needs a lot of power. So these raised my concerns above.

Additional question:
The emo was chosen due to it iffering 220volt input. I'd very much appreciate recommendations on alternatives.

Thank you AVforumers
 
#57 · (Edited)
Scenario 1: $3600
LCR 212RT =
xpa-dr3 600W@4ohm/ch
Remaining speakers JBL SCS8, Polk tower&surround:
xpa5-gen3 300W/8ohm/ch
and existing
Outlaw 7100 100w/8ohm/ch

Concerns:
1. A. The 212RT is rated at 2000W. Will the xpa3 at only 600w be enough ? Am I losing 2.0 performance due to this ?
Am I risking the speaker by underpowering it ?

Scenario 2: $4,000
LR mains 212RT:
2x XPA-dr1 1000w/4ohm/ch
Center 212RT +
ear level JBL SCS8, Polk tower and surround:
1x XPA5-gen3 (I think it can run each channel at different impendance) 300W/8ohm/4ch + 490W/4ohm/center channel.
Atmos channels:
Outlaw 7100 100w/8ohm/ch

Concern:
2. A. The 212RT is rated at 2000W. Will the xpa-dr1 at 1000w be enough ? Am I losing 2.0 performance due to this ?
Am I risking the speaker by underpowering it ?

3. B. Is it a bad idea to differentiate the amp used for the center channel vs the ones used for the LR channel ? Will it be very obvious ?

I know that the 212RT are sensitive. But (I think I may have mentioned this elsewhere) 4. the spec also states that it needs 2000W. The 215RT also had the same spec and it was mentioned that it needs a lot of power. So these raised my concerns above.


Congratulations. The LCR are far and away the most important speakers in any audio system. I haven't followed thread but if I could ask, have you decided on the subwoofer? It has got to be JTR 2400 or 4000 right? :) For your questions, all IMHO, and "in general":

1. Yes. It's a complicated topic but suffice it to say, in general in high-end/high performance audio, a higher rating amplifier is desirable. "Sounds" better, more headroom, and less chance of clipping, which could damage drivers. The demand for current (hence power) could also come from the woofers, especially with ultra low bass played at high volume. You could see glimpse of this in the JTR subwoofer line: 1400 watts for JTR 1400, 2400 watts for big brother 2400, etc.

2. Unequivocally, no, with 1000w/4 ohm (if true) you are most definitely not "under-powering," especially for these highly sensitive speakers. This is a complicated topic also :) now that I think about it, but at any rate, what JTR states on the web site is "recommended amplification up to 2000 watts RMS (program)." To me, it's more of a warning to NOT run more than 2000 watts into the speaker, and a declaration of the very high power it could TOLERATE/ALLOW. It does NOT mean it needs 2000 watts to sound good. I hope you see the fine point.

3. Yet another complicated topic but in general, no. Difference in the "sound" of good quality solid state amps are hard to detect. After many years in this hobby, to tell a difference I would still have to do careful shoot-out with 2 channel music on familiar materials to tell. The difference usually could be heard in low frequency response, imaging, soundstage depth, etc. In a movie setting (vs music), the difference becomes nearly impossible to detect.
Of note, difference between speakers OTOH are much more significant and easily noted. The speakers, as typical of electro-mechanical interface devices, influence the overall sound much more than difference in ss amps.

4. See above. The speaker doesn't need 2000 watts. I actually think this is a confusing "spec." High end speakers, in general, are not "rated" for power really. Yet another complicated topic :).
 
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