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post #1 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Sub - what would you do?

I am wondering about my sub selection and could use some advise. Like everything Home Theater, I have made my final decision at least a dozen times now... each decision being different from the last.

My question is probably very subjective but I am hoping that those of you who actually have a HT and have a Sub can help someone like myself who has had neither... yet.

Since I am doing the DIYSG HTM-12's for LCR and the VOLT-10's for surround and height I often find myself leaning toward a DIYSG Ported 8cuft Cabinet or Ported 10cuft Cabinet that they offer. Not sure which one? I have had some tell me and I have read that this DIY Sub will blow away basically anything under $3k-$4k on the market today (especially those listed below).

Further, I am also pondering (perhaps?) a single PSA V1811, a single Seaton F18, a single Rythmik FV18 or the dual HSU VTF-15H MK2 (DualDrive).

You can see I am apparently set on an 18" sub. My HT is (will be) roughly 18' wide and 20' deep. I plan to have a 150" 16:9 or a 142" 2.35:1 AT screen and two rows of seating.

Any pointed advise is much appreciated.
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post #2 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdscuba View Post
I am wondering about my sub selection and could use some advise. Like everything Home Theater, I have made my final decision at least a dozen times now... each decision being different from the last.

My question is probably very subjective but I am hoping that those of you who actually have a HT and have a Sub can help someone like myself who has had neither... yet.

Since I am doing the DIYSG HTM-12's for LCR and the VOLT-10's for surround and height I often find myself leaning toward a DIYSG Ported 8cuft Cabinet or Ported 10cuft Cabinet that they offer. Not sure which one? I have had some tell me and I have read that this DIY Sub will blow away basically anything under $3k-$4k on the market today (especially those listed below).

Further, I am also pondering (perhaps?) a single PSA V1811, a single Seaton F18, a single Rythmik FV18 or the dual HSU VTF-15H MK2 (DualDrive).

You can see I am apparently set on an 18" sub. My HT is (will be) roughly 18' wide and 20' deep. I plan to have a 150" 16:9 or a 142" 2.35:1 AT screen and two rows of seating.

Any pointed advise is much appreciated.
For the price of the subs you mentioned you could easily build two 18" ported subs + amplifier...and since you're on a DIY roll already, you might as well just keep on that same path. Just sayin.
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post #3 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 03:21 PM
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Best performance for the money:

4 VBSS’s

Best ULF for the money:

2 Full Marty’s

Best Buy and Dry:

4 HSU VTF3’s

Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #4 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d-rail34 View Post
For the price of the subs you mentioned you could easily build two 18" ported subs + amplifier...and since you're on a DIY roll already, you might as well just keep on that same path. Just sayin.
I always lean this way... always. I am just concerned about my amateur woodworking skills, and in very particular, my ability to finish a piece of furniture that will be visible to everyone. I'm not scared of building the HTM's or the Volt's - they will never be visible.

I am also concerned about performance. For some reason, I am not fully convinced that a DIY kit can be as good or better than commercially produced subs with tons of R&D behind them... :-)
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post #5 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rdscuba View Post



I am also concerned about performance. For some reason, I am not fully convinced that a DIY kit can be as good or better than commercially produced subs with tons of R&D behind them... :-)

Hop on over to DataBass and compare the DIY’s they’ve measured to the built ones, they have SVS, Rythmik, HSU, etc. The numbers don’t lie.
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Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #6 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Russdawg1 View Post
Hop on over to DataBass and compare the DIY’s they’ve measured to the built ones, they have SVS, Rythmik, HSU, etc. The numbers don’t lie.
Thanks.

Do you have any opinions on any of the stuff the DIYSG offers? CNC cut and ready to assemble are right up my alley...
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post #7 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rdscuba View Post
I am also concerned about performance. For some reason, I am not fully convinced that a DIY kit can be as good or better than commercially produced subs with tons of R&D behind them... :-)
Sorry to laugh but HAHAHA! It's not even close, brother.

BTW, there's really not much R&D for a sub. They are really simple to design. In reality, the commercial designs are generally compromised because they have to worry about shipping and material efficiencies that we don't need to worry about in DIY.

Edit because I saw your new message: Are you referring to the assembled cabinets from DIYSG? That 8cf ported looks pretty good for your situation.
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post #8 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rdscuba View Post
Thanks.



Do you have any opinions on any of the stuff the DIYSG offers? CNC cut and ready to assemble are right up my alley...

I forgot what the website/company was, but there’s a website that sells full Marty kits. It’s like GSG Audio. That’s where I would head. Two full Marty’s with UM18-22 drivers and an iNuke NU6000DSP would kill the FV18, SVS PB16, anything under $3000. And for like $1500 and some elbow grease.

Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #9 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by aron7awol View Post
Sorry to laugh but HAHAHA! It's not even close, brother.

BTW, there's really not much R&D for a sub. They are really simple to design. In reality, the commercial designs are generally compromised because they have to worry about shipping and material efficiencies that we don't need to worry about in DIY.

Edit because I saw your new message: Are you referring to the assembled cabinets from DIYSG? That 8cf ported looks pretty good for your situation.
Yes, I do like the thought of the assembled 8cf box from DIYSG. They also have a 4.0cf flat pack that is very reasonable. I just assume the 8cf assembled box will outperform the more simple 4cf one...
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post #10 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Russdawg1 View Post
I forgot what the website/company was, but there’s a website that sells full Marty kits. It’s like GSG Audio. That’s where I would head. Two full Marty’s with UM18-22 drivers and an iNuke NU6000DSP would kill the FV18, SVS PB16, anything under $3000. And for like $1500 and some elbow grease.
I will scour the web and see if I can find the kit. Very interested. Thank you.
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post #11 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 05:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rdscuba View Post
I will scour the web and see if I can find the kit. Very interested. Thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russdawg1 View Post
I forgot what the website/company was, but there’s a website that sells full Marty kits. It’s like GSG Audio. That’s where I would head. Two full Marty’s with UM18-22 drivers and an iNuke NU6000DSP would kill the FV18, SVS PB16, anything under $3000. And for like $1500 and some elbow grease.
Found them HERE.

Ill add this to the list....
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post #12 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 05:05 PM
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Yes, I do like the thought of the assembled 8cf box from DIYSG. They also have a 4.0cf flat pack that is very reasonable. I just assume the 8cf assembled box will outperform the more simple 4cf one...
Yeah the 8cf will be much, much better, and the Marty kits are even better.
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@aron7awol & @Russdawg1 have already stated what you need to know on the DIY subs.

Also, with you having an AT screen, I would really look into a pair of the full Marty's w/UM18's (they really like the bigger boxes) to put behind there as well. You will not be disappointed.

If I had an AT screen that's most definitely the route that I would go.
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I would jump over to the DIY forum and check out more info on these, and you will be better served posting there as well.

Here is the link:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/


Hope this helps,

Darrell
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Or you can do my patent pending “Fuller Marty”



It’s like 15 cubic feet net internal. It’s fun. It’s also tuned to like 15 hz instead of 18 hz for the normal Marty.
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Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #16 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Russdawg1 View Post
Or you can do my patent pending “Fuller Marty”



It’s like 15 cubic feet net internal. It’s fun. It’s also tuned to like 15 hz instead of 18 hz for the normal Marty.
Nice...
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post #17 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d-rail34 View Post
@aron7awol & @Russdawg1 have already stated what you need to know on the DIY subs.

Also, with you having an AT screen, I would really look into a pair of the full Marty's w/UM18's (they really like the bigger boxes) to put behind there as well. You will not be disappointed.

If I had an AT screen that's most definitely the route that I would go.
My baffle wall is not super deep and it is highly unlikely I could fit a Full Marty in/behind it. Rather, I have always assumed and am prepared to have the sub out in front of it, likely in one or both corners. Knowing that, maybe a Full Marty is too big? Can you lay them down on their side?
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My baffle wall is not super deep and it is highly unlikely I could fit a Full Marty in/behind it. Rather, I have always assumed and am prepared to have the sub out in front of it, likely in one or both corners. Knowing that, maybe a Full Marty is too big? Can you lay them down on their side?
Yes, you can definitely lay them down. I've seen multiple people do this a well.

If the you still find that the Full Marty may be too big, you can always go with the Mini Marty.
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post #19 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 06:28 PM
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My baffle wall is not super deep and it is highly unlikely I could fit a Full Marty in/behind it. Rather, I have always assumed and am prepared to have the sub out in front of it, likely in one or both corners. Knowing that, maybe a Full Marty is too big? Can you lay them down on their side?

As long as port and volume stay the same you can manipulate the box however you like. You can flatten it, make it taller, etc, whatever you need to do to make it work.

But yes you can lay them down on your side.

You may want to look into 4 VBSS’s. You can place 1 in each corner and will overall be cheaper than two marty’s due to the inexpensive driver they use ($99 for the PA380 vs $320 for the UM18). It’ll also have the edge in pure output and overall bass distribution (little to no room nulls due to distributed placement).

I don’t know if they make kits for the VBSS, but it is definitely easier to make than a Full Marty.
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Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #20 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is another question that will show off my ignorance a little more... What is the input type of the NX6000D - which is what I assume I would need for 1 or 2 Full Marty's? In my infinite wisdom I just ran single RCA type cables (RG-6 with RCA fittings) to each side of my baffle wall. Am I out of luck?
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post #21 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rdscuba View Post
Here is another question that will show off my ignorance a little more... What is the input type of the NX6000D - which is what I assume I would need for 1 or 2 Full Marty's? In my infinite wisdom I just ran single RCA type cables (RG-6 with RCA fittings) to each side of my baffle wall. Am I out of luck?

It’s XLR. All you need is a simple RCA to XLR cable. Super cheap on amazon. You will need however some speakon jacks to mount on your subwoofer, whatever you build, and speakon cable which you can buy or make.
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Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #22 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Russdawg1 View Post
It’s XLR. All you need is a simple RCA to XLR cable. Super cheap on amazon. You will need however some speakon jacks to mount on your subwoofer, whatever you build, and speakon cable which you can buy or make.
Ok, thanks. I found lots of RCA to XLR adapters on Amazon. It seems that they are all R/L RCA to XLR. In my case I just ran 1 RG-6 to each corner - for LFE. I wont have R/L channels at each corner. Is this ok?
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Ok, thanks. I found lots of RCA to XLR adapters on Amazon. It seems that they are all R/L RCA to XLR. In my case I just ran 1 RG-6 to each corner - for LFE. I wont have R/L channels at each corner. Is this ok?

Hmm that’s weird. I use a single RCA to XLR cable. It’s from monoprice if that helps. But yeah it doesn’t really matter all that much, the L/R->XLR just sums the two inputs into one so if you used just one of the RCA inputs it would still work normal.
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Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #24 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rdscuba View Post
My baffle wall is not super deep and it is highly unlikely I could fit a Full Marty in/behind it. Rather, I have always assumed and am prepared to have the sub out in front of it, likely in one or both corners. Knowing that, maybe a Full Marty is too big? Can you lay them down on their side?


Check out this build thread for shallow mini marty:

Skinny Mini[marty] LT - build thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...6&share_type=t



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #25 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Russdawg1 View Post
It’s XLR. All you need is a simple RCA to XLR cable. Super cheap on amazon. You will need however some speakon jacks to mount on your subwoofer, whatever you build, and speakon cable which you can buy or make.
I don't own one, but it looks like they also accept 1/4" (TS) plugs.
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I don't own one, but it looks like they also accept 1/4" (TS) plugs.

You’d be correct! Forgot to mention that. I also have no idea wtf TS is.
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Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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post #27 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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You’d be correct! Forgot to mention that. I also have no idea wtf TS is.
lol - that makes two of us. But I'm fixing to figure it out... that's for sure.
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post #28 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 09:39 PM
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You’d be correct! Forgot to mention that. I also have no idea wtf TS is.
It's a 1/4" mono plug.

Doesn't lock like XLR.
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post #29 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 09:49 PM
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Can't believe that nobody mentioned the SKHorn yet. Build it and you won't ever worry about above 30Hz headroom again (and it even has variable tuning).

Add sealed nearfield subs and you're done with your HT. I don't know exactly how big the full marty is, but I think it's a little wider than the SKHorn is tall.
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post #30 of 54 Old 03-07-2019, 11:03 PM
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Can't believe that nobody mentioned the SKHorn yet. Build it and you won't ever worry about above 30Hz headroom again (and it even has variable tuning).

Add sealed nearfield subs and you're done with your HT. I don't know exactly how big the full marty is, but I think it's a little wider than the SKHorn is tall.

I think it’s cause unless you have a cnc machine and $300 worth of plywood on you, it’s almost impossible Also don’t you have to plug like half the ports to get decent ULF from it? Did they ever test for chuffing with 4 ports closed?

I will recommend it OP, only if you are up to the task however. But if you think a simple Full Marty box is hard to do from scratch then I wouldn’t even bother looking up the SKHorn

Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
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