Golden Ear Triton Powered & Audyssey COMPLEX - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 52 Old 04-09-2019, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Golden Ear Triton Powered & Audyssey COMPLEX

The reason for this thread is to help Golden Ear Triton Powered Subwoofer Owners (Reference, One.R, One, Two, Three).

When setting up the Triton Speakers, I did what everyone does. Bass nob at 12 o clock. I setup with Audyssey and instantly went from movies to stereo. Something wasn't right. I tinkered all night. Here is what I found but really don't know where to go from here.

No matter what settings I chose something wasn't right. I narrowed it down to during the Calibration it will test your front Speakers, Center, Surrounds, and then Sub. My confusion comes in to only the Front Speakers that are Set to LARGE. When Audyssey runs, it somehow EQ's the bass out or down on the speaker cables. So during Home Theater the LFE is plugged into the Triton tower and sounds amazing. When you switch to Stereo the LFE channel is turned off and the bass has been eq'ed out the bass or sucks the bass out of the Front speakers.

I backward tested this by rebooting the Denon receiver and applied no settings. Bass nob at 12 o clock and magically the bass comes back to normal (Removed the LFE cable so there is no question).

I would like to use Audyssey but not sure you can with a Powered sub inside the front tower set to Large.

Could it be the signal coming from the LFE canceling out the signal from the speaker wire during Audyssey.

I figured that it would make each speaker work to its fullest extent so that when you switch to stereo it would sound the same and just not use the LFE signal. But the bass is heavily reduced.

I called Audyssey and they tried to help me but didn't have any or the guy I spoke with didn't have any experience with a powered tower and Audyssey.

I did play with making the front speaker SMALL. then Crossing over at 80hz & 120hz and boom all the bass comes back in. But I don't know if that is proper. If I change the cross over to 60hz/40hz it just plays the subsonic amazing and you get nothing really from 60 and above.

I know the recommendation from GoldenEar is to not use any room correction but I'm not smart enough to do my own. And I bought receiver to get the Room Correction and was gonna buy a bigger better one, but not if it will be the same issue.

any suggestions. Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 52 Old 04-09-2019, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Triton set to small

After tinkering more. No Audyssey, And just changing the speaker from Large to Small nets more bass. I then have to turn the dial down from 12 o clock to 10.
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post #3 of 52 Old 04-09-2019, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccumato View Post
I know the recommendation from GoldenEar is to not use any room correction but I'm not smart enough to do my own. And I bought receiver to get the Room Correction and was gonna buy a bigger better one, but not if it will be the same issue.
Sometimes in a room you are just not lucky with available placement, and then some kind of correction is necessary (Audyssey and Dirac being the most powerful, as they are time-based). I don't think GoldenEar has any correction built-in. As for your problem, https://audyssey.zendesk.com/hc/en-us
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post #4 of 52 Old 04-09-2019, 07:14 PM
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Bro, I feel you. I'm a Triton One owner and have had a hell of a time getting Bass/LFE to integrate properly in my room. Tuning the bass for stereo is fairly straight forward and basic measurements and my ear tell me that about 10 o'clock on the dial is right for my room. ARC confirms that this makes a very flat response as the speaker goes down from say 500hz, across the 100hz crossover to the active section.



The problem I ran into is when I plugged in my LFE out from my Onkyo and tried to calibrate for home theater the AVR would fail to calibrate because the LFE signal was so hot. After months of screwing around I spend thousands of dollars and bought an Anthem AVM 60 only to run into the same problem. I ended up buying subs and completely giving up on getting bass correct in a multi-channel / LFE and have really soured on the brand in no small part because asking for help on the GET forum simply yields the fanboys shouting you down for "doing it wrong".



In my room, crossing over the T1s sounds bad "thin" so I let them run full range and with four 12" subs I have mostly solved the problem but it feels like a giant waste to have spent $5k on active speakers when they couldn't be integrated into a fairly standard home theater.




If you have a stereo setup, I think the higher end GETs could be great. If you want a home theater I'd actually recommend going with the passive models or a different brand.
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post #5 of 52 Old 04-09-2019, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I’m in the same boat. It seems that the technology is the good of all worlds but not the best. Making that LFE signal active makes the bass 4 times more dynamic and tight.

Did you have any luck setting the speaker to small and crossing over at 80. Anything crossover at 80 goes to the LFE of the same speaker so we shouldn’t be missing anything.
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post #6 of 52 Old 04-09-2019, 08:52 PM
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Set up the mains as speaker-level input (without a separate low level sub-out). Then set it up using the L&R stereo signal. When listening to stereo, use the pure-direct mode to eliminate the sub and any other processing from the equation. That should take care of the music end of the equation.

For HT, do not try to run with the fronts set to large, let the subs do their job and cross over at 80, or slightly above or below, whichever gives the best aural results.

Trying to get more bass by running the L&R as large just adds tons of complexity and room interactions into the mix. Odds are quite high you will get cancellation instead of addition. Yeah, you can get REW and a UMIK, and try to get it all to work together, but that is a very difficult task due to the mains only having real world output to about 40Hz, while the real subs are going well below that figure.

This is why owning speakers with built-in powered "subs" is not all milk and cookies.

It's a VIRTUAL channel unless stated otherwise.

Last edited by RayGuy; 04-09-2019 at 09:02 PM.
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post #7 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 04:24 AM
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May I know what AVR are you using?


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post #8 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by B SUBASCHANDRA BOS View Post
May I know what AVR are you using?
In addition, what subwoofer do you have? How is it placed in relation to your main speakers and your seating?


What Golden Ear speakers do you have? How are they placed within the room and in relation to the seating?


Do you have *any* measurement capability? At a bare minimum you'll need an SPL meter, even a phone app SPL meter.


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post #9 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 02:59 PM
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Picked up a pair of 1R's today and a R center. My room hates all auto calibration, results in no bass and weak mids.



Spent three hours, have them toed and placed wonderful for two channel music. Went to movies and after messing with crossovers I have them already sounding better than the STS's they replaced. Read your post before I left,



I always had the Sub line in on the STS's, best of both worlds, used direct on 2 channel music (no processing and no line level boost on STS) but when watching movies in 5.1 the line level boost would kick in and give a bit more bass, worked very well.



Here is the odd thing, on the R1's when I hooked up the line level for a boost the opposite happened, the bass was sucked right out of them and they got muddy, so I crank down the line level to the sub to nothing, all the way, my thoughts were the sub feed would then resemble the sound I got from no (RCA) line. NOPE, It was as if the low end was sucked right out of the speaker.


Something is different, the line does not seem to give a boost to the bass like the STS's did and taking the level all the way down at the receiver level does not seem to somewhat restore the bass, it's as if the line level shuts off the bass section feed from the speaker wires.



All is good, music sounds fantastic and movies are sounding very good in the bass area for 3 hours of toying but I am so lost as to how the line level works, does it add more weight to the speaker wire sub feed like the STS's. does it cut the speaker wire input into the R1' amp and take over.? Sure seems like the latter to me.



If you are the guy that wrote the GE board and sit in the exact center of the room that's often a big issue for bass, about the worst seat in the house so to speak BUT we sure have the exact same thing going on.


It's not speaker placement though,. the only variable in my case was line plugged into RCA jack (or not), horrible plugged in wonderful not plugged no matter what the line level was set at and no matter what other receiver level sub settings tried.



Very odd.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ccumato View Post
The reason for this thread is to help Golden Ear Triton Powered Subwoofer Owners (Reference, One.R, One, Two, Three).

When setting up the Triton Speakers, I did what everyone does. Bass nob at 12 o clock. I setup with Audyssey and instantly went from movies to stereo. Something wasn't right. I tinkered all night. Here is what I found but really don't know where to go from here.
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post #10 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 03:27 PM
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That's what I though too, it does not seem like a standing wave problem though (in my case), should not reducing the receiver end sub feed level slowly improve low end if it sounds very good with no RCA sub line attached, I took it down to -20 (goes from +20 to -20), If the speaker wires were still powering the sub taking the line down as far as it goes should improve the sound closer to my no line level sound, realizing that -20 may still be feeding something into the R1's onboard subs, but it does sound the same as 0 as -20, no bass and muddy mids. I walk behind them, pull the cords out of the RCA jacks and bomb, everything sounds very good.



Thoughts,



I will try what you say for fun this weekend my friend but what I am hearing does not sound like a cancellation as the volume or sound quality does not seem to change at all no matter how much I take the Receiver line level up or down (but does on my STS's). (Yes, they are still set to large, will try what you say this weekend)







Quote:
Originally Posted by RayGuy View Post
Set up the mains as speaker-level input (without a separate low level sub-out). Then set it up using the L&R stereo signal. When listening to stereo, use the pure-direct mode to eliminate the sub and any other processing from the equation. That should take care of the music end of the equation.

For HT, do not try to run with the fronts set to large, let the subs do their job and cross over at 80, or slightly above or below, whichever gives the best aural results.

Trying to get more bass by running the L&R as large just adds tons of complexity and room interactions into the mix. Odds are quite high you will get cancellation instead of addition. Yeah, you can get REW and a UMIK, and try to get it all to work together, but that is a very difficult task due to the mains only having real world output to about 40Hz, while the real subs are going well below that figure.

This is why owning speakers with built-in powered "subs" is not all milk and cookies.
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post #11 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 03:34 PM
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Do powered Triton work with just the speaker cable?

Also, are all drivers powered or just the base section? I mean do the tweeter and mid range need external amplification?

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post #12 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Laika View Post
That's what I though too, it does not seem like a standing wave problem though (in my case), should not reducing the receiver end sub feed level slowly improve low end if it sounds very good with no RCA sub line attached, I took it down to -20 (goes from +20 to -20), If the speaker wires were still powering the sub taking the line down as far as it goes should improve the sound closer to my no line level sound, realizing that -20 may still be feeding something into the R1's onboard subs, but it does sound the same as 0 as -20, no bass and muddy mids. I walk behind them, pull the cords out of the RCA jacks and bomb, everything sounds very good.



Thoughts,



I will try what you say for fun this weekend my friend but what I am hearing does not sound like a cancellation as the volume or sound quality does not seem to change at all no matter how much I take the Receiver line level up or down (but does on my STS's). (Yes, they are still set to large, will try what you say this weekend)
Looking forward to your impressions on Monday!

As to cancellations, or otherwise, if you do not have REW, there is really no way to know what is actually going on. I'm a big "let your ears decide" guy, but bass is a b!tch, and measurement is probably the only way you will ever get what you are looking to get (and maybe not even then, which is my guess). Too many variables.

It's a VIRTUAL channel unless stated otherwise.

Last edited by RayGuy; 04-10-2019 at 03:44 PM.
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post #13 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RayGuy View Post
Set up the mains as speaker-level input (without a separate low level sub-out). Then set it up using the L&R stereo signal. When listening to stereo, use the pure-direct mode to eliminate the sub and any other processing from the equation. That should take care of the music end of the equation.

For HT, do not try to run with the fronts set to large, let the subs do their job and cross over at 80, or slightly above or below, whichever gives the best aural results.

Trying to get more bass by running the L&R as large just adds tons of complexity and room interactions into the mix. Odds are quite high you will get cancellation instead of addition. Yeah, you can get REW and a UMIK, and try to get it all to work together, but that is a very difficult task due to the mains only having real world output to about 40Hz, while the real subs are going well below that figure.

This is why owning speakers with built-in powered "subs" is not all milk and cookies.
I tried to do as much research as I could and yes I was sold the milk and cookies. They are amazing at imaging in stereo. Adding the center channel in the mix just doesn't sound right.
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post #14 of 52 Old 04-10-2019, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by craig john View Post
In addition, what subwoofer do you have? How is it placed in relation to your main speakers and your seating?


What Golden Ear speakers do you have? How are they placed within the room and in relation to the seating?


Do you have *any* measurement capability? At a bare minimum you'll need an SPL meter, even a phone app SPL meter.


Craig
I have the Triton one.r & center reference. the room is 17 x 13 opening into another room behind me. I do have an SPL meter.

When I remove the Audyssey settings these are the best imaging speakers I've ever heard. My issue now is when I remove the Audyssey and listen in Home Theater mode, the center doesn't sound right. Having a phantom center sounds better. Not sure how to adjust the center without using Audyssey
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Originally Posted by Laika View Post
Picked up a pair of 1R's today and a R center. My room hates all auto calibration, results in no bass and weak mids.



Spent three hours, have them toed and placed wonderful for two channel music. Went to movies and after messing with crossovers I have them already sounding better than the STS's they replaced. Read your post before I left,



I always had the Sub line in on the STS's, best of both worlds, used direct on 2 channel music (no processing and no line level boost on STS) but when watching movies in 5.1 the line level boost would kick in and give a bit more bass, worked very well.



Here is the odd thing, on the R1's when I hooked up the line level for a boost the opposite happened, the bass was sucked right out of them and they got muddy, so I crank down the line level to the sub to nothing, all the way, my thoughts were the sub feed would then resemble the sound I got from no (RCA) line. NOPE, It was as if the low end was sucked right out of the speaker.


Something is different, the line does not seem to give a boost to the bass like the STS's did and taking the level all the way down at the receiver level does not seem to somewhat restore the bass, it's as if the line level shuts off the bass section feed from the speaker wires.



All is good, music sounds fantastic and movies are sounding very good in the bass area for 3 hours of toying but I am so lost as to how the line level works, does it add more weight to the speaker wire sub feed like the STS's. does it cut the speaker wire input into the R1' amp and take over.? Sure seems like the latter to me.



If you are the guy that wrote the GE board and sit in the exact center of the room that's often a big issue for bass, about the worst seat in the house so to speak BUT we sure have the exact same thing going on.


It's not speaker placement though,. the only variable in my case was line plugged into RCA jack (or not), horrible plugged in wonderful not plugged no matter what the line level was set at and no matter what other receiver level sub settings tried.



Very odd.

I have the same setup. one.r and reference center.

When I removed the Audyssey the image was magical. I can't tell where the speakers are. they disappear.

When I try and play music I've figured it out. Just turn up the knob to get the bass right with no Audyssey. Then on Home theater lower the LFE channel level to match. Done.

My only issue now is the center doesn't sound right. Maybe a little boomy. Making male voices sound deeper like there is too much midrange???
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post #16 of 52 Old 04-11-2019, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post
In addition, what subwoofer do you have? How is it placed in relation to your main speakers and your seating?


What Golden Ear speakers do you have? How are they placed within the room and in relation to the seating?


Do you have *any* measurement capability? At a bare minimum you'll need an SPL meter, even a phone app SPL meter.


Craig


I have 2 units of Rythmik F15HP sub.

I don’t have speakers that you have mentioned.

I am using KEF speakers all around 7.2.2.

I’m using REW with UMik 1 to calibrate.

I also have a Minidsp interfaced between the AVR and the sub.

I hope this answers your questions.


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Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
Do powered Triton work with just the speaker cable?

Also, are all drivers powered or just the base section? I mean do the tweeter and mid range need external amplification?

Just the bass.
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post #18 of 52 Old 04-12-2019, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccumato View Post
I have the Triton one.r & center reference. the room is 17 x 13 opening into another room behind me. I do have an SPL meter.

When I remove the Audyssey settings these are the best imaging speakers I've ever heard. My issue now is when I remove the Audyssey and listen in Home Theater mode, the center doesn't sound right. Having a phantom center sounds better. Not sure how to adjust the center without using Audyssey
Actually, I am kind of surprised this is not more of an issue, in general. When you have speakers that image well, and your seating is limited to a fairly small area, a center channel can actually be detrimental to the sound you hear. Much depends on placement, and the relative quality of the Center channel vs the L&R. If you like it better without the center, then return it (if still in the return window) or sell it.

Pics of the front speaker, in relation to to the L&R and the seating positions, might be helpful in suggesting other placement options to try. In the interim, you might play with the distance setting of the center channel in the receiver. If the sound of the center channel is not reaching your ears with the right timing, it could throw everything off, even if it is well placed. So, try adjusting it as you listen, -1, -2 ... +1, +2 ... etc to see if you can clean up the sound to your satisfaction.

Lots of folks run phantom center, so if that is how it ends up, so be it. The only thing that matters is how it sounds to you.

It's a VIRTUAL channel unless stated otherwise.
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post #19 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 12:52 PM
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Bro, I feel you. I'm a Triton One owner and have had a hell of a time getting Bass/LFE to integrate properly in my room. Tuning the bass for stereo is fairly straight forward and basic measurements and my ear tell me that about 10 o'clock on the dial is right for my room. ARC confirms that this makes a very flat response as the speaker goes down from say 500hz, across the 100hz crossover to the active section.



The problem I ran into is when I plugged in my LFE out from my Onkyo and tried to calibrate for home theater the AVR would fail to calibrate because the LFE signal was so hot. After months of screwing around I spend thousands of dollars and bought an Anthem AVM 60 only to run into the same problem. I ended up buying subs and completely giving up on getting bass correct in a multi-channel / LFE and have really soured on the brand in no small part because asking for help on the GET forum simply yields the fanboys shouting you down for "doing it wrong".



In my room, crossing over the T1s sounds bad "thin" so I let them run full range and with four 12" subs I have mostly solved the problem but it feels like a giant waste to have spent $5k on active speakers when they couldn't be integrated into a fairly standard home theater.




If you have a stereo setup, I think the higher end GETs could be great. If you want a home theater I'd actually recommend going with the passive models or a different brand.
I’m pretty sure I saw your YouTube posts working with those Sb2000’s. It was a fun set of videos. You’re right in that the GE forum on their website is odd, but I hope that doesn’t dissuade you too much from the brand (I’m a GE owner, but I have their T5’s instead, along with a couple of SSXXL’s and Aon surrounds). I wanted to ask if you had tried running the T1 subs along with those sb2000’s so that you had six running subs in your home theater (i.e., place the SVS subs in different locations so that you can take advantage of the T1 subs and run the T1’s at small with LFE). Also wondered if you had tried working with a minidsp 2x4 for the subs.
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I’m pretty sure I saw your YouTube posts working with those Sb2000’s. It was a fun set of videos. You’re right in that the GE forum on their website is odd, but I hope that doesn’t dissuade you too much from the brand (I’m a GE owner, but I have their T5’s instead, along with a couple of SSXXL’s and Aon surrounds). I wanted to ask if you had tried running the T1 subs along with those sb2000’s so that you had six running subs in your home theater (i.e., place the SVS subs in different locations so that you can take advantage of the T1 subs and run the T1’s at small with LFE). Also wondered if you had tried working with a minidsp 2x4 for the subs.

Yeah, that's me.


I've not tried running all six because the four SVS work so well. I've also not used MiniDSP but I find ARC to be incredibly powerful and have it working really well. I've never been able to run the Triton Ones small as I feel like the AVR crossover is interfering with the 100hz crossover to the powered section. Plus it seems like a colossal waste of money to buy $5000 powered towers and run them as small.



Unfortunately both the problems and the attitude of the "support" from GET has absolutely soured me on the brand. I'd not purchase them again and wouldn't recommend them. But, I'll never buy powered towers of any brand again after my experience with the GETs.
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post #21 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 01:05 PM
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Can these speakers simply be connected traditionally without using a line-level connection from the AVR's/processors's sub-out to the speakers sub-in? If so, that is how I would recommend connecting them. Without a separate outboard subwoofer, the speakers will be set to LARGE with NO SUB and the LFE channel info from LFE-channel-containing material will be routed into the front channels. What's left to be configured will be the sub sections' output settings at each speaker prior to calibration which will require a bit of trial-and-error.

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post #22 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles J P View Post
Yeah, that's me.


I've not tried running all six because the four SVS work so well. I've also not used MiniDSP but I find ARC to be incredibly powerful and have it working really well. I've never been able to run the Triton Ones small as I feel like the AVR crossover is interfering with the 100hz crossover to the powered section. Plus it seems like a colossal waste of money to buy $5000 powered towers and run them as small.



Unfortunately both the problems and the attitude of the "support" from GET has absolutely soured me on the brand. I'd not purchase them again and wouldn't recommend them. But, I'll never buy powered towers of any brand again after my experience with the GETs.
Running all six was more a curiosity from my standpoint (hence the question). The one thing that is tempting to me about the powered tower version is that the full ranged towers are in a sense already integrated with their own “subs” for two channel music. I don’t quite understand how running them small would be a waste of money. You could cross them at 40 or even 30 and then use the T1 subs to act as additional subs for the system, or perhaps I’m missing something.
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post #23 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post
Can these speakers simply be connected traditionally without using a line-level connection from the AVR's/processors's sub-out to the speakers sub-in? If so, that is how I would recommend connecting them. Without a separate outboard subwoofer, the speakers will be set to LARGE with NO SUB and the LFE channel info from LFE-channel-containing material will be routed into the front channels. What's left to be configured will be the sub sections' output settings at each speaker prior to calibration which will require a bit of trial-and-error.
Yes they can, but this is a compromise solution if your priority is HT. If you are 80/20 in favor of music I think its a livable solution but the compromises are as follows.


  1. You still have the main fault of powered towers which is the placement of the L/R speaker may not be the ideal location for subwoofers. When I was using the Tritons only (no other subs) I had massive suck-outs (like 10-15dB) at 45 and 90Hz. There was no way to correct this because what I needed to do was move the subwoofers. But you can't because they're built into your towers.
  2. Many AVRs will "reduce" the LFE channel when you set sub to none. This is frequently undocumented but has been tested and shown to be true. The presumption is the AVR manufacturer is trying to protect the run of the mill speakers with two 6.5" woofers from being delivered 25Hz at 90dB. They have no way of knowing that you're running true 20Hz capable speakers with 1000 watt amps built in.
  3. You have no way to tweak the LFE to taste in this case. Because you're not running a sub, you can't go in and add 1-3dB to to the Sub trim in the AVR because you told it you aren't running one.
The way I have my setup today is running the Tritons as large and running 4 sealed subs. It works pretty well but it makes it feel like springing for the Tritons was a bit of a waste.



I'm pretty savvy in understanding bass management and measuring systems if I do say so myself, and I never got the Tritons to work in my room running the internal subs in any configuration (LFE wired in or just speaker level). Is it my room? Sure, it absolutely is. That said the 3 items I posted above apply to EVERY room. You may get lucky and not have a problem but you still can't optimize your subs when they're attached to your L/R speakers.

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post #24 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HTNUT1975 View Post
Running all six was more a curiosity from my standpoint (hence the question). The one thing that is tempting to me about the powered tower version is that the full ranged towers are in a sense already integrated with their own “subs” for two channel music. I don’t quite understand how running them small would be a waste of money. You could cross them at 40 or even 30 and then use the T1 subs to act as additional subs for the system, or perhaps I’m missing something.

You could cross them over, yes. In fact, I saw something online that recommended crossing over even the T1 at 50Hz if you're running subs. I guess my point is once you have 4 subs in your room you could be running almost any speaker and there are options for a hell of a lot less than $5000. As I've already said, my opinion of GET soured based on my experience.



This thread is only one of several you can find across various forums. There are multiple people on GETs own forum that have struggled similarly to me. Blame is always cast anywhere but the speaker. I was originally told it was "obviously" my Onkyo AVR. So I spent $4000 on an Anthem AVM 60 and a 7 channel amp and the problem remained the same.


I've reached a good point with my system today and I don't need this thread to turn into a scree from me. I originally just wanted to let OP know he's not alone in his struggles.
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post #25 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 01:31 PM
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Yeah @CharlesJP that makes total sense with respect to having multiple subs plus Triton powered is overkill. Regardless, loved your YouTube vids. Was great to see that the power of multiple smaller subs yielded such powerful results.
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post #26 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles J P View Post
Yes they can, but this is a compromise solution if your priority is HT. If you are 80/20 in favor of music I think its a livable solution but the compromises are as follows.



1. You still have the main fault of powered towers which is the placement of the L/R speaker may not be the ideal location for subwoofers. When I was using the Tritons only (no other subs) I had massive suck-outs (like 10-15dB) at 45 and 90Hz. There was no way to correct this because what I needed to do was move the subwoofers. But you can't because they're built into your towers.
True, but there is no way around this no matter how they are connected if there is(are) no dedicated outboard subwoofer(s).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles J P View Post
2. Many AVRs will "reduce" the LFE channel when you set sub to none. This is frequently undocumented but has been tested and shown to be true. The presumption is the AVR manufacturer is trying to protect the run of the mill speakers with two 6.5" woofers from being delivered 25Hz at 90dB. They have no way of knowing that you're running true 20Hz capable speakers with 1000 watt amps built in.
3.You have no way to tweak the LFE to taste in this case. Because you're not running a sub, you can't go in and add 1-3dB to to the Sub trim in the AVR because you told it you aren't running one.
I understand, but if no dedicated outboard subwoofer(s) is(are) being used, I still think that connecting powered towers conventionally and using a NO SUB setting is the better option. Trying to connect the sub sections separately via a line-level connection to the processor's sub-out presents a whole set of issues as evidenced by the OP's post. And, yes, I agree, it is a compromise.



The HT 'issue' with powered towers is there, mainly, when they are used without outboard subwoofer(s). With true, dedicated outboard subwoofer(s), simply connecting powered towers conventionally and even running them as SMALL with a lower crossover than the oft-used 80Hz (i.e. 40Hz or even lower if possible) is very reasonable.
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Just picked up the Triton Ones today. So far with a full day of playing around I like the advice mentioned above and is working really well if you have external subs. FWIW I have 2 subs.

I hooked them up using speaker wire only. After calibration I set the XO 60 and went to my peq menu and flattened out everything below 60hz for the subs and mains. My auto calibration for some reason had huge cuts below 60hz for the mains and subs. Raised my sub level in the receiver menu to my liking.....Roughly 6db.
The xxl super center is also set to 60/80 still tinkering. When watching tv or movies it is perfect. My 2 subs handle the low much better than the towers did running full range which I tested for a couple hours. The above comment was for HT use only.

For music Im simply running in pure direct mode and it is perfect to my ears. The towers handle the music like a champ at full range using no sub. It is really freaking good.

I tried to use the advice on the GE forum and from my dealer for speaker set up and processing but couldn’t get everything to sound right. I did a lot of testing and tinkering for almost 10 hours. Lol.

I’ve owned a lot of speakers like Dali,Klipsch,Martin Logan electrostatics, Boston Acoustic, Paradigm. I feel with these speakers and my final system set up described above has given me favorite system I have ever had and having the best of both worlds finally. Well at least for one day. 😆

Hope this helps someone.

Don’t forget.....listen to the music not the speakers. Let your ears be the judge.

Edit. Just wanted to add this center channel is phenomenal. Blown away.

Sony XBR 940d
GoldenEar Triton one
GoldenEar XXL supercenter
HSU VTF1-MK3(pair)
Yamaha RX-A3080

Last edited by Bacovish; 04-13-2019 at 11:28 PM.
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post #28 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles J P View Post
Yes they can, but this is a compromise solution if your priority is HT. If you are 80/20 in favor of music I think its a livable solution but the compromises are as follows.



1. You still have the main fault of powered towers which is the placement of the L/R speaker may not be the ideal location for subwoofers. When I was using the Tritons only (no other subs) I had massive suck-outs (like 10-15dB) at 45 and 90Hz. There was no way to correct this because what I needed to do was move the subwoofers. But you can't because they're built into your towers.
True, but there is no way around this no matter how they are connected if there is(are) no dedicated outboard subwoofer(s).


I understand, but if no dedicated outboard subwoofer(s) is(are) being used, I still think that connecting powered towers conventionally and using a NO SUB setting is the better option. Trying to connect the sub sections separately via a line-level connection to the processor's sub-out presents a whole set of issues as evidenced by the OP's post. And, yes, I agree, it is a compromise.



The HT 'issue' with powered towers is there, mainly, when they are used without outboard subwoofer(s). With true, dedicated outboard subwoofer(s), simply connecting powered towers conventionally and even running them as SMALL with a lower crossover than the oft-used 80Hz (i.e. 40Hz or even lower if possible) is very reasonable.
[/QUOTE]

Great advice. Keep it simple. Don’t force anything 👍👍

Sony XBR 940d
GoldenEar Triton one
GoldenEar XXL supercenter
HSU VTF1-MK3(pair)
Yamaha RX-A3080
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post #29 of 52 Old 04-13-2019, 11:31 PM
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By the way if someone can throw me a linky to the official goldenear thread I would really appreciate. I’ve been searching without any luck. Thx

Sony XBR 940d
GoldenEar Triton one
GoldenEar XXL supercenter
HSU VTF1-MK3(pair)
Yamaha RX-A3080

Last edited by Bacovish; 04-13-2019 at 11:40 PM.
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post #30 of 52 Old 04-14-2019, 12:16 PM
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By the way if someone can throw me a linky to the official goldenear thread I would really appreciate. I’ve been searching without any luck. Thx
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-sp...on-thread.html
For some reason it isn't named as the fairly standard "XYZ Brand Official Owners Thread" but that's the big one.

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