Improving the Sony SS-CS5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-19-2019, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Improving the Sony SS-CS5

I recently undertook a project to improve the performance of a commercial speaker. I wanted to start with something with value and potential. The speaker I selected is the Sony SS-CS5 currently on sale at a major online retailer for $118 for the pair and free shipping.

Here's a review of the speaker, complete with on-axis frequency response measurements:
https://www.lifewire.com/sony-ss-cs5-review-3135114

It's a very high value performer that already measures and sounds very good. It has a peak at 1 kHz, and a polite voicing that falls off a little bit at higher frequencies. There's little output below 70 hz, but a subwoofer can solve that issue, or it could be used without one in an office or dorm room or some place where deep bass isn't required.

The speaker improvement I developed is somewhat "outside the box". I built an anti-diffraction frame out of PVC pipe and some velcro straps. I built it in such a way that the grills can still be used, though it's probably better to remove them for the most critical listening. The frame increases the on-axis output above and below the 1kHz peak, making the peak much more benign.

I did make an "inside the box" modification, but it's one that requires no costly crossover parts, and no soldering. I shorted out one of the resistors in the woofer crossover circuit to prevent the woofer from attenuating significantly before the crossover frequency, and then to fall off more rapidly above the crossover frequency. This modification is safe and makes very little difference to the impedance curve (and no difference to the minimum). The only trick is getting the woofer out to gain access to the crossover. I'll make a subsequent post detailing the build that will cover that.

Both modifications are completely reversible, as the shorting wire and frames can be removed.

I am including on-axis and 45 degree off-axis measurements taken by my friend Dennis Murphy, as well as comparison pictures (with and without the frame). I am also including a pic that shows the crossover with the resistor shorted out by a small black wire with alligator clips on both ends.

I am posting slightly prematurely because the sale on the speakers is pretty significant.

The last point I will make is that this same style of frame could be applied to most speakers out there, and can greatly increase the smoothness and similarity of on-axis and off-axis sound/measurements. The extent of the improvement depends on how afflicted the speaker was with diffraction originally.
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post #2 of 17 Old 05-19-2019, 01:51 PM
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That is cool -- well done
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post #3 of 17 Old 05-19-2019, 04:16 PM
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that's very cool.. i guess i am in the minority who think the stock cores are great , really great at the price point..i would love to get my hands on a pair with the mods

YAMAHA TSR 5790.. front l/r emotiva b1's and /or kef q100's ..BIC v1220.....Emotiva basx10.... ascend cbm 170 center.. polk t15 rears..samsung 55" j620d
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post #4 of 17 Old 05-19-2019, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's some build information for the frame.

I used two pieces of 4 inch PVC (4.5 inches outside diameter). Each was 24 inches long. The first step was to mark them for the height of the speaker. After marking them, I cut them to length with a hacksaw.

With the PVC cut to length, I marked them lengthwise. Typically there are already words and bar codes printed on the PVC that help make a straight line down the length of the PVC. I used a string to measure the circumference, and marked the string for 1/2 the circumference. I used the string to mark the opposite side from the original lengthwise mark. I cut both pieces of PVC in half lengthwise using a jigsaw, making 4 pieces. (Enough for a pair of frames.) I sanded my imperfect cuts to make them better.

For the bottom, I cut a pair of slots 1/2 inch deep, and 1/2 inch away from the inside. I used the hacksaw again. The straps will go through the slots and around the speaker, fastening in the back.

For the top, I drilled two holes on the outside of the frame (rounded part), and cut a slot between them using a utility knife. The top strap loops through the slot, and holds the frame to the side, fastening on the top.

Next I did a test fit, which nicely shows how the frame attaches (with good contrast of white PVC and black straps). The 1/2 inch wide velcro straps are cut about 34 inches long for the bottom, and 30 inches long for the top.

Next I painted the PVC black. I found rollers to work much better than brushes. It's best to use 3 light coats, inside and outside. The paint filled in my slots a little, so I had to cut the paint out, but that was no big deal.
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post #5 of 17 Old 05-19-2019, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's the process for modifying the crossover (shorting out one resistor). This mod depends on the frame (or some other baffle widening) being in place. This mod by itself likely wouldn't be an improvement to the spectral balance of the speaker.

First, find something that will fit the hex screws that hold the woofer and tweeter baffle in place. Surprisingly, none of my allen wrenches fit, but I had a hex bit that did (pictured below). Remove all the screws that hold the woofer in place.

Next, use a flat head screwdriver (or similar) and something to protect the front baffle of the speaker (I used a small piece of thin cardboard). Pry up the woofer where its dowels are glued into the cabinet at the bottom, left, and right. The glue makes an interesting ccchhhhh sound as it releases. I have included a picture that shows the attachment locations in green, and one dowel in red. Remove the tweeter baffle to get an angle on the dowel at the top. Pry up the last dowel, and remove the woofer.

With the woofer out of the way, you can pull back the nice piece of acoustic foam behind it. The crossover is mounted to the back of the cabinet. I have included pictures of the original crossover, and the modified one. I used a small wire with alligator clips to short out the appropriate resistor. (DO NOT SHORT OUT THE OTHER RESISTOR!) I still had difficulty attaching the wire to the little leads that connect the resistor to the circuit board. Soldering in there would be really difficult, and I'm not sure about removing the crossover. Plus, this is reversible. Make sure the wire is secure, and then put everything back.

I'll add before and after impedance sweeps in a subsequent post. Anyone copying my modifications does so at their own risk.
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post #6 of 17 Old 05-19-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Lp85253 View Post
that's very cool.. i guess i am in the minority who think the stock cores are great , really great at the price point..i would love to get my hands on a pair with the mods

Ditto on the SSCS5.

For what it's worth, there's a Sony 3-way bookshelf speaker from the '90s—the SS-H3500. It's similar to Sony's current SSCS5. The SS-H3500 is a pretty decent, non-fatiguing listen--and looks good, too. The SS-H3500 might have a fuller midrange than the SSCS5. I'm not sure.
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post #7 of 17 Old 05-19-2019, 07:45 PM
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I bought these for $75/pair over Christmas. I try to recommend these to people looking to get into HT but no one believes a cheap speaker can be good, esp at the $75 price point, even though this forum is full of testimonials.

I do not have the skills to make these mods but its great to hear that this little speaker is capable of even more.
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-20-2019, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dbPlan View Post
Ditto on the SSCS5.

For what it's worth, there's a Sony 3-way bookshelf speaker from the '90s—the SS-H3500. It's similar to Sony's current SSCS5. The SS-H3500 is a pretty decent, non-fatiguing listen--and looks good, too. The SS-H3500 might have a fuller midrange than the SSCS5. I'm not sure.
thanks , i'll keep my eyes open on cl for a pair..

YAMAHA TSR 5790.. front l/r emotiva b1's and /or kef q100's ..BIC v1220.....Emotiva basx10.... ascend cbm 170 center.. polk t15 rears..samsung 55" j620d
bedroom .. YAMAHA r-xv 383... front l/r.. wharfedale 10.1s... ascend cbm 170 center ... Emotiva basx8... samsung ku6300 50 in
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post #9 of 17 Old 05-20-2019, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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In this post, I've included 2 pictures to highlight the impact of the anti-diffraction frame. Both pictures contain response measurements of the same speaker at 0, 30, and 60 degrees off axis horizontally. One shows the speaker by itself, and the other shows the speaker with the frame added (no crossover modification). The only difference is the frame. It's easy to see that the frame evens out the response significantly between 300 Hz and 3 kHz, while also drastically improving the consistency across horizontal angle in the same frequency region.

These measurements are taken with my own system, so they wont exactly match those taken by Dennis, though they should be pretty close. The relative differences are real. I added and removed the frame for each angle, to make sure that the angle didn't change between measurements. Though the angles are identical for both sets of measurements, they are approximations. No guarantee that "30" is exactly 30, etc.
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-20-2019, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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This post shows the impact of shorting the resistor in the woofer crossover. Instead of adding and removing the short for every measurement, I used the 2nd speaker from the pair. The 2 speakers don't measure quite identically (though they do image quite well). The major impact of shorting the resistor is to fill in the slight dip in response between 2 kHz and 4 kHz. Originally, the woofer and tweeter don't quite reach each other at the crossover point. Instead of each of them being 6 dB down, they're more like 8 dB down, and thus there's a depression in the frequency response there (even though they match well in phase). Shorting the resistor extends the woofer's response to meet the tweeter's, yet the slope of the woofer's high frequency attenuation is actually increased (which is also a good thing in this case). The tweeter response isn't changed, so there's no concern about decreased power handling.

I am also including impedance plots for the speaker with and without the resistor short. Again, these each come from a different speaker in the pair. The only impact is a depression of the peak near 2 kHz. The minimum stays the same, and this will not make any difference to whether or not an amp drives this speaker well.
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post #11 of 17 Old 05-21-2019, 02:16 PM
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Very nice. I assume you did some calculations beforehand to optimize the size of the extensions for that particular speaker to find the sweet spot for the half space radiation gain. It's amazing how such a simple tweak was so effective. I think everyone who has read this thread are looking at their speakers a little differently.
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post #12 of 17 Old 05-21-2019, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vergiliusm View Post
Very nice. I assume you did some calculations beforehand to optimize the size of the extensions for that particular speaker to find the sweet spot for the half space radiation gain. It's amazing how such a simple tweak was so effective. I think everyone who has read this thread are looking at their speakers a little differently.
You give me too much credit. I knew from past experience with a DIY speaker that a frame like this could mitigate diffraction. At some point I thought of trying it on a commercial speaker, as an add-on modification. I was going to try a different speaker, and Dennis Murphy suggested this one, which I had no prior experience with. I picked up a pair and threw on a proof of concept frame, and it worked well, so I completed the project. Until trying the frame, it was impossible to tell what the impact would be.
Most people who have seen the before and after plots are surprised at the difference the frame makes. For me, the surprise is just how high-end the sound is after the modifications. I honestly enjoy listening to these speakers, and I have quite a set up. It should be impossible to get such a high-end sound for so few dollars... Sony really outdid themselves with these. I am very curious what impact could be made on other flat-baffle speakers, and I hope others will perform that test and report back.

I have leftover shorting wires and velcro. I don't mind sending them to someone who agrees to complete the mods. Anyone interested should PM me. Supplies are (very) limited.
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post #13 of 17 Old 05-21-2019, 07:11 PM
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I thought maybe you saw something in the response that the wider baffle would improve upon. It's even better that it was a happy accident for that size. Who says the audio gods don't throw us a bone once in a while?

Diffraction is one of those things like distortion and floor and ceiling bounce. We know the theory, but how much is audible and when does it become a problem in real world applications? I enjoy reading the differing opinions, but sometimes ignorance is bliss. The audio tweaker in me though wants to try it with my little bookshelves just for fun.

Thanks for opening the can of worms.
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post #14 of 17 Old 05-27-2019, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vergiliusm View Post
I thought maybe you saw something in the response that the wider baffle would improve upon. It's even better that it was a happy accident for that size. Who says the audio gods don't throw us a bone once in a while?

Diffraction is one of those things like distortion and floor and ceiling bounce. We know the theory, but how much is audible and when does it become a problem in real world applications? I enjoy reading the differing opinions, but sometimes ignorance is bliss. The audio tweaker in me though wants to try it with my little bookshelves just for fun.

Thanks for opening the can of worms.
In the case of the Sony speaker, the audibility is pretty significant because the on-axis frequency response changes. Without the frame, the frequencies between 1 and 2 kHz are exaggerated a couple of dB relative to the frequencies around them. That's almost completely corrected with the frame. The modified sound (frame and resistor short) is better balanced and more coherent. I've also found them to image better after modification. There are some sounds (like those of a violin) that when panned significantly one way or the other would be localized at the speaker. The frame allows that sound to be freed from the speaker, allowing the speaker to disappear more. With the mods, these really do have a high-end sound (for everything above 70 Hz). I'd love to have them independently reviewed, but I don't think most publications would be interested, and I'm obviously not advertising with any of them, since I'm a DIYer.

Anyone considering this mod or a similar one should know that a participant on another forum informed me that cutting PVC with a table saw is a bad idea. Apparently the PVC will pinch the blade, and cause dangerous kickback. I've had no such problems with my jigsaw, but that's not exactly the ideal solution either. Ideally, there would be a good source of black PVC half-rounds in an appropriate size, but I don't know of one.
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post #15 of 17 Old 05-28-2019, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dbPlan View Post
Ditto on the SSCS5.

For what it's worth, there's a Sony 3-way bookshelf speaker from the '90s—the SS-H3500. It's similar to Sony's current SSCS5. The SS-H3500 is a pretty decent, non-fatiguing listen--and looks good, too. The SS-H3500 might have a fuller midrange than the SSCS5. I'm not sure.
Hmmm....there is a pair of SS-H3500 for sale locally for $79.00. Tempting.
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post #16 of 17 Old 05-29-2019, 06:10 PM
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Hmmm....there is a pair of SS-H3500 for sale locally for $79.00. Tempting.

First, thanks to the OP for this fascinating thread.

To follow up with your comment, ematcion, the Sony SS-H3500 is close to 29 years old--something to keep in mind. The H3500's woofers, i.e., the surrounds, are rubber-like, not foam, and the H3500's speaker cabinet is kind of thin, light in weight, and sounds hollow, similar to the SS-CS5's cabinet. How the small SS-H3500 3-way bookshelf loudspeaker sounds today is anybody's guess, esp. in your room, with your music, and with your gear. I'll throw out a guess that the Sony SS-H3500's sound signature falls somewhere between the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR and the Wharfedale 10.1. The Wharfedale 10.1 sells for, roughly, $175 today. The Pioneer BS-22-LR and Sony SS-CS5 seem to routinely sell for less than $80. The new PSB Alpha 5 looks interesting ($350).
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post #17 of 17 Old 05-29-2019, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dbPlan View Post
First, thanks to the OP for this fascinating thread.

To follow up with your comment, ematcion, the Sony SS-H3500 is close to 29 years old--something to keep in mind. The H3500's woofers, i.e., the surrounds, are rubber-like, not foam, and the H3500's speaker cabinet is kind of thin, light in weight, and sounds hollow, similar to the SS-CS5's cabinet. How the small SS-H3500 3-way bookshelf loudspeaker sounds today is anybody's guess, esp. in your room, with your music, and with your gear. I'll throw out a guess that the Sony SS-H3500's sound signature falls somewhere between the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR and the Wharfedale 10.1. The Wharfedale 10.1 sells for, roughly, $175 today. The Pioneer BS-22-LR and Sony SS-CS5 seem to routinely sell for less than $80. The new PSB Alpha 5 looks interesting ($350).
the 10.1 and the core are all-time values , imo
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bedroom .. YAMAHA r-xv 383... front l/r.. wharfedale 10.1s... ascend cbm 170 center ... Emotiva basx8... samsung ku6300 50 in
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