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post #91 of 131 Old 05-29-2019, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KenM10759 View Post
Pretty-much until the insulation gets crispy....which with modern materials should be never.

Good idea to check and/or even re-secure the connectors at least once a year and more often if you think of it.
A very good point, the sleeve of the connector and also the screws if it is a none solder type. Some of mine use to loosen-up often.
That said, here's a little trick that I found many years ago. If you put a drop of a thread locker, they will never loosen-up again
https://www.amazon.ca/Loctite-Blue-T...gateway&sr=8-1

One word of caution, for those who intend to use a similar product.
Make sure you use the Blue type, since the lock can be broken. If using the Red type that say permanent, they mean permanent.
You will break the sleeve, or strip the screws head before this product give-up. And found out the hard way


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post #92 of 131 Old 05-29-2019, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by machavez00 View Post
All things considered, gauge, length, properly made plug connections, etc; how long do you keep cables/wires in use? The wires in use on my 5.1 system are seven years old.

Short and dirty answer. If someone cheap out for a none oxygen free wire (I don't even think they exist anymore, when it come to speakers wire).
Check the ends of the wires of corrosion, a foot or so could be affected.
Oxygen free wire, could last for ever. And if some very little corrosion occur, it might be only 1/4".
Some of mine are over 20 years old, and still doing fine
So after seven years, been recent in this Hobby. I am sure you are just fine.


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post #93 of 131 Old 05-29-2019, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
(snip)

One word of caution, for those who intend to use a similar product.
Make sure you use the Blue type, since the lock can be broken. If using the Red type that say permanent, they mean permanent.
You will break the sleeve, or strip the screws head before this product give-up. And found out the hard way


Darth
You can remove red Loctite. All that it takes is heating the parts to 500F (260C). Might be a little hard on the plastics, though.
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post #94 of 131 Old 05-29-2019, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
You can remove red Loctite. All that it takes is heating the parts to 500F (260C). Might be a little hard on the plastics, though.

LOL
Thanks for this info, I know myself. I would not even think of doing-it, to save few bucks


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post #95 of 131 Old 05-30-2019, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by redrovermiami View Post
Does it really matter what speaker cable you use?

Only to the people taking your money.....
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post #96 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Menarini View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
Take any advice (including this) with a grain of sale. Speaker cables are one of the favorite subjects of debate. Remember that some audiophiles claim to be able to hear differences due to cheater cords (the cord that connects the electric power from the wall to the receiver or amplifier). You can spend hundreds, or thousands, of dollars on a single cheater cord.
You are referring to the power cord that connects your amplifier as 'cheater' cord? Well in a few blind A/B testings, power cords have shown to have some 'effect' on sound, google it. Most of the times though you will be okay with the original power cord that comes inside your amplifier box. And in many testings, it has been proven if that cord connected to your power amplifier is going through a power conditioner, it is limiting the current to your amplifier and thus reducing sound quality.
Cheater cords are ground lift cords.
And they can easily be heard blind or not, but only sometimes (when they work as intended)

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post #97 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 01:59 PM
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Cheater cords are ground lift cords.
And they can easily be heard blind or not, but only sometimes (when they work as intended)
Did you mean when they don't work as intended?
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post #98 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by aats View Post
Cheater cords are ground lift cords.
And they can easily be heard blind or not, but only sometimes (when they work as intended)


Prove it. Where is the study?


-To be an audiophile you must abandon all research and science.
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post #99 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by modenacart View Post
Prove it. Where is the study?


-To be an audiophile you must abandon all research and science.
It's an easy test -- plug in a power cable that works, you can hear music; plug in a cable with a break in the middle, you don't!

edit: as an aside, as a stern cable skeptic, I recently had the..pleasure...of talking to a dealer (whose name and location I will not disclose, despite they will probably never find this forum and were otherwise a delight to work with) who was very convinced otherwise. "All my customers hear a difference, it is strikingly obvious." Was willing to mail me samples of cables to try on my own until I told him the lengths I'd need, lol. But, I say this because if I weren't so rigidly fixed in my science-minded approach, I could have easily bought into the tactics he used. It sounded so...possible when he touted the "science" of skin-effect (without calling it skin effect, but I knew exactly what he was driving at). He said so many things (many of which I won't repeat because they'll probably give him away) which almost got even me to bite...and, maybe for the hell of it, one day I will when I have short enough cables to take him up on his generous offer. But, if I ever do, I'll be sure to cover the cables from amp to speaker with blankets and have my wife be the one to randomly decide which wires to connect and ask her to connect/disconnect a different pair every day (if she wants). Then, I'll keep a listening log and see if it correlates to her swaps...I doubt it. Not a perfect blind study, but...best I'm willing to do.
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post #100 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DreamWarrior View Post
It's an easy test -- plug in a power cable that works, you can hear music; plug in a cable with a break in the middle, you don't!


He is not talking about a cable with a short. He is talking about a cable that is magically conditioning the power.


-To be an audiophile you must abandon all research and science.
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post #101 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by modenacart View Post
He is not talking about a cable with a short. He is talking about a cable that is magically conditioning the power.


-To be an audiophile you must abandon all research and science.
I'd like to think he was joking...but, who knows on these "inter-webs", lol.
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post #102 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by DreamWarrior View Post
I'd like to think he was joking...but, who knows on these "inter-webs", lol.


Sadly he is not. A fool and their money keeps the economy going and is good for my 401k.


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post #103 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
One word of caution, for those who intend to use a similar product.
Make sure you use the Blue type, since the lock can be broken. If using the Red type that say permanent, they mean permanent.
You will break the sleeve, or strip the screws head before this product give-up. And found out the hard way

Purple Locktite is good too - even lighter duty.
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post #104 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Purple Locktite is good too - even lighter duty.

While I never heard of this one, I will look into-it.
Thanks for the info


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post #105 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modenacart View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by aats View Post
Cheater cords are ground lift cords.
And they can easily be heard blind or not, but only sometimes (when they work as intended)


Prove it. Where is the study?


-To be an audiophile you must abandon all research and science.
In EE books I guess.
Ground loop is pretty well-known problem.

If you want more cables then there are RF filtering cables, but I doubt there would be benefit, unless your equipment is very prone to RFI.

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post #106 of 131 Old 05-31-2019, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by aats View Post
In EE books I guess.
Ground loop is pretty well-known problem.


Ground loops are a design flaw independent of a three pronged plug cord. Changing the cord will not fix this.

I ask again to provide the study.


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post #107 of 131 Old 06-01-2019, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
While I never heard of this one, I will look into-it.
Thanks for the info

Yes, I've used it in a few applications that see a lot more "abuse" than audio components and it holds up well, does not need any kind of heat to undo and depending on the application, you can often undo this just with enough manual force, tool-free. Of course sometimes tools are needed, but a very tiny amount can do the job on things that are more or less static.
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post #108 of 131 Old 06-01-2019, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Yes, I've used it in a few applications that see a lot more "abuse" than audio components and it holds up well, does not need any kind of heat to undo and depending on the application, you can often undo this just with enough manual force, tool-free. Of course sometimes tools are needed, but a very tiny amount can do the job on things that are more or less static.
Good info
So in short, it can be divided this way for the color code of different Loctite;
Red, can only be undone with lots of heat.
Blue, can be easily be undone using some tools.
Purple, can be often be undone using manual force. Tools not often required.


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post #109 of 131 Old 06-01-2019, 02:32 PM
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Speaker cable

A dab of silicone can work too. It may be a bit strong.


-To be an audiophile you must abandon all research and science.
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post #110 of 131 Old 06-02-2019, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Good info
So in short, it can be divided this way for the color code of different Loctite;
Red, can only be undone with lots of heat.
Blue, can be easily be undone using some tools.
Purple, can be often be undone using manual force. Tools not often required.

Darth
Yep, pretty much! Especially if you go light application on the purple. Then there's also the green loctite....now all they need is yellow....

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/

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post #111 of 131 Old 06-02-2019, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
A very good point, the sleeve of the connector and also the screws if it is a none solder type. Some of mine use to loosen-up often.
That said, here's a little trick that I found many years ago. If you put a drop of a thread locker, they will never loosen-up again
https://www.amazon.ca/Loctite-Blue-T...gateway&sr=8-1

One word of caution, for those who intend to use a similar product.
Make sure you use the Blue type, since the lock can be broken. If using the Red type that say permanent, they mean permanent.
You will break the sleeve, or strip the screws head before this product give-up. And found out the hard way


Darth
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Yep, pretty much! Especially if you go light application on the purple. Then there's also the green loctite....now all they need is yellow....

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/
The funny thing, I started to point out of the usefulness of the Blue Loctite.
To stop connectors and sometime screws to vibrate loose, with a warning of using the Red one.

And now got an additional education, about there property


Darth
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post #112 of 131 Old 06-02-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
The funny thing, I started to point out of the usefulness of the Blue Loctite.
To stop connectors and sometime screws to vibrate loose, with a warning of using the Red one.

And now got an additional education, about there property


Darth

The nice thing about the purple is that due to it's lower strength, it's good for the metals used on banana plugs (especially set screws if you use them and tough to undo by hand....) that are softer metals that are easier to mess up with too much tool force.
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post #113 of 131 Old 06-03-2019, 05:36 PM
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I'd like to put forward two thoughts for consideration:


1. In any given system, the potential of mismatches exists, no matter how unlikely, implying that it is not impossible that a specific wire does not have the best properties to match with an amplifier that for example prefers 8 ohm speakers while the speakers themselves dip to 3 ohms??? Assuming that the current wire is replaced with a different wire...more expensive, thicker, different material, whatever....it may, to some people, sound different than the original wire, but there is certainly no guarantee that it will sound better in that specific system.


2. In any given system, it is pretty well accepted that changing one of the components...amplifier, speakers, DAC will result in a different sound (often better) which suggests that the current wires in use must at least be good enough to allow you to discern the improvement/change made by switching the component...if the wires don't allow you to hear such change, then maybe the wires are so bad they do need changed....but if the wires do allow you to hear the change, then maybe money is better spent upgrading components until such time as you can not hear a change...then start tweaking the wires.


My suggestion is that if someone is going to spend $300 for a Shunyata HC power cord, as an example...that is ok....BUT, they should have someone switch it with the stock the power cord back and forth in a blind test repeated over several days to make sure that the person hears the improvement....before the 30 day return timetable runs out.
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post #114 of 131 Old 06-03-2019, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RN2013 View Post
I'd like to put forward two thoughts for consideration:


1. In any given system, the potential of mismatches exists, no matter how unlikely, implying that it is not impossible that a specific wire does not have the best properties to match with an amplifier that for example prefers 8 ohm speakers while the speakers themselves dip to 3 ohms??? Assuming that the current wire is replaced with a different wire...more expensive, thicker, different material, whatever....it may, to some people, sound different than the original wire, but there is certainly no guarantee that it will sound better in that specific system.


2. In any given system, it is pretty well accepted that changing one of the components...amplifier, speakers, DAC will result in a different sound (often better) which suggests that the current wires in use must at least be good enough to allow you to discern the improvement/change made by switching the component...if the wires don't allow you to hear such change, then maybe the wires are so bad they do need changed....but if the wires do allow you to hear the change, then maybe money is better spent upgrading components until such time as you can not hear a change...then start tweaking the wires.


My suggestion is that if someone is going to spend $300 for a Shunyata HC power cord, as an example...that is ok....BUT, they should have someone switch it with the stock the power cord back and forth in a blind test repeated over several days to make sure that the person hears the improvement....before the 30 day return timetable runs out.


The only thing in your argument that has shown to make a difference is speakers. The features on amps can make the sound different but if the amp has sufficient power they sound the same.


-To be an audiophile you must abandon all research and science.
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post #115 of 131 Old 06-03-2019, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RN2013 View Post
I'd like to put forward two thoughts for consideration:


1. In any given system, the potential of mismatches exists, no matter how unlikely, implying that it is not impossible that a specific wire does not have the best properties to match with an amplifier that for example prefers 8 ohm speakers while the speakers themselves dip to 3 ohms??? Assuming that the current wire is replaced with a different wire...more expensive, thicker, different material, whatever....it may, to some people, sound different than the original wire, but there is certainly no guarantee that it will sound better in that specific system.


2. In any given system, it is pretty well accepted that changing one of the components...amplifier, speakers, DAC will result in a different sound (often better) which suggests that the current wires in use must at least be good enough to allow you to discern the improvement/change made by switching the component...if the wires don't allow you to hear such change, then maybe the wires are so bad they do need changed....but if the wires do allow you to hear the change, then maybe money is better spent upgrading components until such time as you can not hear a change...then start tweaking the wires.


My suggestion is that if someone is going to spend $300 for a Shunyata HC power cord, as an example...that is ok....BUT, they should have someone switch it with the stock the power cord back and forth in a blind test repeated over several days to make sure that the person hears the improvement....before the 30 day return timetable runs out.
Either having more expensive speakers wires, or a fancy power cord will make a difference.
Since if an Amplifier is rated is rated for 8 ohms speaker, changing a speaker wire will not change that fact.
And I am assuming when you said Amplifier, you meant an AVR since most Power Amp are rated down to 4 ohms.
And many speakers will drop there ohms rating, at some frequencies.
That said, in my system I use 12 AWG wires, when many time only 14 AWG is require. But is only a preference thing, to have all the wires the same size

For the power cord, your suggestion to have switching them as a blind test. Is a good suggestion.
That said, changing a power cord will not change a think.
Think of it that way, power is connected to your house. After going hundreds of miles, through power line.
Once inside your place, only the sufficient wires for the Electrical Code to all your plugs.
Changing that power cord, will not improve your signal, since all cord provided with your Electronics.
Have been design to use the one they provide, and are sufficient.


Darth
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post #116 of 131 Old 06-03-2019, 07:35 PM
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I respect that some hear no difference when changing wires... or when switching equivalent power amplifiers. My experience has been that with a sufficiently resolving system when level matched, amplifier differences are often easily audible.... and far more audible than changes from one good cable to another.

One of the beauties of this hobbies is that you only have to please your own ears and your own doubts. There is more audible benefit from $100 cables and $1000 speakers than $600 cables with $500 speakers... just my opinion though.
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post #117 of 131 Old 06-03-2019, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Not buying from monoprice, is your personal option.

I believe Ken was just mentioning, that in wall/ceiling speaker wires. Need to be rated CL2 or CL3.
A very important point, for those who want to run speaker wires that way.
Since if using normal speaker wires, a claim by the Insurance Company for a fire. Could be denied, even if not at fault.

And for your info, these are the one I use;
http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-thea...er-wire-100ft/
Nothing magic about wires, just need to be the sufficient AWG for the distance required.


Darth
Ha, good to see someone else on the knukonceptz.com train too! I was about ready to mention them and saw your post. I've always been a big fan as they seem to have a higher strand count, well-made and very pliable for snaking through walls, floors, etc. Think I ordered a 100' roll of 14 gauge and called it a day. Big fan of that sweet spot between value and quality. Knu seems to hit that spot for me.

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post #118 of 131 Old 06-04-2019, 06:00 AM
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I’ve been plenty happy with Monoprice speaker cable, but do not like their banana plugs.

I actually have some of their new terminated monolith speaker cables coming today for my stereo system, wanted something nicer looking than a PVC jacket, and at $40 shipped for a 10’ pair, it seemed like a good deal.

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post #119 of 131 Old 06-04-2019, 09:23 AM
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Here are some really nice affordable options for making your own speaker cable from HTD....both OFC cable and OFC tinned cable. I've made several cables for myself and others from the 4 wire 14gage OFC cable by joining the red + green into one leg and white + black into a second leg yielding 11 gage net...and theoretically picking up some of the benefits of wound cable...but who really knows....these cables have sounded great on any system they have been hooked to. And if you are a believer in tinned cables...well, it doesn't cost much to experiment with that either. I've used Sewell screw down banana plugs with good success. Enjoy!



https://www.htd.com/Products/cables_...bwoofer-Cables
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post #120 of 131 Old 06-04-2019, 10:04 AM
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I use these for a solid no muss no fuss plug and play option when the cables are going to be visible and cosmetics need to be taken into account.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...1_speaker.html

Otherwise I just use regular OFC from RadioShack, Monoprice, etc.... and connect via bare wire or banana plugs.
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