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post #31 of 49 Old 06-27-2019, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dill3377 View Post
I appreciate the link man, thankfully I already have a SVS PB-2000 to match with it. So would just need an amp and yes it'd still put me over budget, but a little over won't hurt
I like the idea of using an AV receiver as an amp. In my area you can get good used receivers for $100 or less via Craigslist.

A receiver gives you a DAC, amp, digital crossover, subwoofer-out, and often Bluetooth in one device. Good luck finding all that in a small desktop integrated amp for anything less than like $400.

Downside of using an AV receiver is the physical space it takes up (maybe put it under your desk or on a shelf somewhere) and also the amount of power it might consume when idle (presumably you'd leave it turned on all the time).
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post #32 of 49 Old 06-27-2019, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I would be curious to know how well the Mackie MR624 stack up to those. They are my desktop speakers, and I've heard their sound compared to the JBL 305, Kali LP6, and others. They sound better than those, and better than many speakers costing more. I'm not sure what happens when you get into the price ranges you're looking at, but I think they have the sound signature you're looking for. Would be a very interesting experiment to order a pair for comparison. I put the tweeters at -2, but I did the same with the Emotiva AirMotiv 6s.
Heard of Mackie, but not of these speakers. I will definitely try to find a pair locally to listen to.
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post #33 of 49 Old 06-27-2019, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I like the idea of using an AV receiver as an amp. In my area you can get good used receivers for $100 or less via Craigslist.

A receiver gives you a DAC, amp, digital crossover, subwoofer-out, and often Bluetooth in one device. Good luck finding all that in a small desktop integrated amp for anything less than like $400.

Downside of using an AV receiver is the physical space it takes up (maybe put it under your desk or on a shelf somewhere) and also the amount of power it might consume when idle (presumably you'd leave it turned on all the time).
I have thought about going this route, my only concern is those who say that the LS50 is super amp dependent, so I was kind of pushed away from this route. Size of the receiver doesn't bother me too much, I'll look locally for used if I can.
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post #34 of 49 Old 06-27-2019, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dill3377 View Post
I have thought about going this route, my only concern is those who say that the LS50 is super amp dependent, so I was kind of pushed away from this route. Size of the receiver doesn't bother me too much, I'll look locally for used if I can.
As long as we're talking about modern amps that are engineered correctly (basically anything from a reputable name-brand) I don't think there's any difference between amps except for how much power they can put out before distorting.

I'm pretty sure the people who claim to be able to hear differences between amps are the same people who think they can hear differences between speaker wires...

EDIT: BTW, I've used a receiver with my computer on occasion, but have always used analog-out from my computer. Of course you would want to use digital for a more long-term setup. That might mean buying a USB-to-Toslink adapter. I see Amazon has a few such adapters for sale for $20-$30...

Last edited by motrek; 06-27-2019 at 04:11 PM.
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post #35 of 49 Old 06-27-2019, 04:36 PM
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A receiver is the most convenient way to get bass management if you can't do it via software somehow.
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post #36 of 49 Old 06-27-2019, 10:59 PM - Thread Starter
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As long as we're talking about modern amps that are engineered correctly (basically anything from a reputable name-brand) I don't think there's any difference between amps except for how much power they can put out before distorting.

I'm pretty sure the people who claim to be able to hear differences between amps are the same people who think they can hear differences between speaker wires...

EDIT: BTW, I've used a receiver with my computer on occasion, but have always used analog-out from my computer. Of course you would want to use digital for a more long-term setup. That might mean buying a USB-to-Toslink adapter. I see Amazon has a few such adapters for sale for $20-$30...
For sure, I mean I do have some stuff setup, my thing now is just actually spending money on an amp and finding the best speakers for me. What it really boils down to is whether Hi-Fi or a studio monitor is better at this moment in time. I think I'm leaning towards the A5X though..
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post #37 of 49 Old 06-27-2019, 10:59 PM - Thread Starter
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A receiver is the most convenient way to get bass management if you can't do it via software somehow.
Fair dues, I do have pretty poor bass management currently, just been lazy to fix :/
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post #38 of 49 Old 06-28-2019, 04:52 PM
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I like NHT speakers and there are a couple of good choices on Amazon.ca. The NHT C-3 is one of the best bookshelf speakers available for $470cdn each and for a two-way speaker, the NHT C-1 for $175cdn each. I have earlier versions of these speakers and can highly recommend them both.
Here is a review of the C-3:
https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/speaker/bookshelf/nht-c3-bookshelf-speaker-review/


I use the predecessor of the C-1 with a sub that is similar to yours and a receiver rated at about 150 watts per channel. This setup is used exclusively for music and is constantly impressive.


In my office I have a less powerful receiver fed by my computer. The speakers are the NHT Superzeros and a SVS sub. Again a terrific combination.

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post #39 of 49 Old 06-28-2019, 11:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I like NHT speakers and there are a couple of good choices on Amazon.ca. The NHT C-3 is one of the best bookshelf speakers available for $470cdn each and for a two-way speaker, the NHT C-1 for $175cdn each. I have earlier versions of these speakers and can highly recommend them both.
Here is a review of the C-3:
https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/speaker/bookshelf/nht-c3-bookshelf-speaker-review/


I use the predecessor of the C-1 with a sub that is similar to yours and a receiver rated at about 150 watts per channel. This setup is used exclusively for music and is constantly impressive.


In my office I have a less powerful receiver fed by my computer. The speakers are the NHT Superzeros and a SVS sub. Again a terrific combination.
Haven't heard of NHT before, how would you describe their sound? I don't think I'll find them anywhere locally to listen to :/
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post #40 of 49 Old 06-29-2019, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dill3377 View Post
Haven't heard of NHT before, how would you describe their sound? I don't think I'll find them anywhere locally to listen to :/
The thing I look for first in a speaker is accuracy. I would not choose a speaker that adds or subtracts from the intended sound. So frequency response that is within +/- 3 db is the gold standard. You can see from the report on the NHT C-3 that those speakers are within +/- 1.5 db over much of the range. I would characterize the sound as neutral which is exactly what I look for. The listening window chart shows a slight rise in response above 20khz and below 110 hz.
There is a lengthy thread on this forum called How to Choose a Loudspeaker -- What the Science Shows which makes this point with a lot of scientific data to back it up.
The NHT speakers are sealed acoustic suspension designs (as opposed to ported) which many prefer for music (although this is sharply debated).
There are also several reviews on-line of the NHT Classic Three and one or two of the NHT Absolute Zero which are the predecessors of the C-3 and C-1. The only significant difference is that the later versions have a redesigned cabinet.
The C-3 and C-1 are beautifully finished with a black lacquer. You wont be disappointed with either the looks or the sound.
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post #41 of 49 Old 06-29-2019, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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The thing I look for first in a speaker is accuracy. I would not choose a speaker that adds or subtracts from the intended sound. So frequency response that is within +/- 3 db is the gold standard. You can see from the report on the NHT C-3 that those speakers are within +/- 1.5 db over much of the range. I would characterize the sound as neutral which is exactly what I look for. The listening window chart shows a slight rise in response above 20khz and below 110 hz.
There is a lengthy thread on this forum called How to Choose a Loudspeaker -- What the Science Shows which makes this point with a lot of scientific data to back it up.
The NHT speakers are sealed acoustic suspension designs (as opposed to ported) which many prefer for music (although this is sharply debated).
There are also several reviews on-line of the NHT Classic Three and one or two of the NHT Absolute Zero which are the predecessors of the C-3 and C-1. The only significant difference is that the later versions have a redesigned cabinet.
The C-3 and C-1 are beautifully finished with a black lacquer. You wont be disappointed with either the looks or the sound.
Will do some searching when I have a bit of free time today. Appreciate your opinion of it though, neutral sounds good to me!
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post #42 of 49 Old 06-29-2019, 08:53 AM
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I've seen others say the Super series is not neutral, but I haven't seen comments about their higher lines.
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post #43 of 49 Old 06-30-2019, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dswierenga View Post
The thing I look for first in a speaker is accuracy. I would not choose a speaker that adds or subtracts from the intended sound. So frequency response that is within +/- 3 db is the gold standard. You can see from the report on the NHT C-3 that those speakers are within +/- 1.5 db over much of the range. I would characterize the sound as neutral which is exactly what I look for. The listening window chart shows a slight rise in response above 20khz and below 110 hz.
There is a lengthy thread on this forum called How to Choose a Loudspeaker -- What the Science Shows which makes this point with a lot of scientific data to back it up.
The NHT speakers are sealed acoustic suspension designs (as opposed to ported) which many prefer for music (although this is sharply debated).
There are also several reviews on-line of the NHT Classic Three and one or two of the NHT Absolute Zero which are the predecessors of the C-3 and C-1. The only significant difference is that the later versions have a redesigned cabinet.
The C-3 and C-1 are beautifully finished with a black lacquer. You wont be disappointed with either the looks or the sound.
Thanks for posting the link to that thread. I'm interested in that stuff and the thread passed me by. I don't see any spin-o-rama plots of NHT speakers in that thread though? I admit I didn't read all 100 pages of comments but if you could post a link, that'd be cool.
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post #44 of 49 Old 06-30-2019, 12:39 PM
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Thanks for posting the link to that thread. I'm interested in that stuff and the thread passed me by. I don't see any spin-o-rama plots of NHT speakers in that thread though? I admit I didn't read all 100 pages of comments but if you could post a link, that'd be cool.
https://www.soundstagenetwork.com/me...classic_three/
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post #45 of 49 Old 06-30-2019, 05:21 PM
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Thanks for posting the link to that thread. I'm interested in that stuff and the thread passed me by. I don't see any spin-o-rama plots of NHT speakers in that thread though? I admit I didn't read all 100 pages of comments but if you could post a link, that'd be cool.
The "How to Choose a Loudspeaker" thread doesn't do spinoramas. Rather it's a discussion on measurements that lead to a satisfying speaker choice. The main idea is that speakers that listeners like mostly come from the set of speakers that have a flat frequency response curve.

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post #46 of 49 Old 06-30-2019, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dswierenga View Post
The "How to Choose a Loudspeaker" thread doesn't do spinoramas. Rather it's a discussion on measurements that lead to a satisfying speaker choice. The main idea is that speakers that listeners like mostly come from the set of speakers that have a flat frequency response curve.
I'm not sure about your first sentence - the premise of the discussion is that this data is collected via spinorama measurements, which gives you the listening window, sound power, and directivity index.

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post #47 of 49 Old 06-30-2019, 05:34 PM
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Just saying you wont find spinoramas in that thread except maybe in passing. The main theme is that spinorama data can be used to narrow the selection process.

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post #48 of 49 Old 06-30-2019, 05:35 PM
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There is plenty of discussion in between, but there are spinorama measurements for quite a few speakers posted there.

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post #49 of 49 Old 07-01-2019, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dswierenga View Post
The "How to Choose a Loudspeaker" thread doesn't do spinoramas. Rather it's a discussion on measurements that lead to a satisfying speaker choice. The main idea is that speakers that listeners like mostly come from the set of speakers that have a flat frequency response curve.
Check out the first post of the thread. The thread is literally entirely about spin-o-ramas, which they've standardized as ANSI/CEA-2034-A.

Flat on-axis frequency response is only one thing you need to look at when choosing a speaker. Ideally you will be able to see the speaker's entire spin-o-rama plot. It's a shame that we often can't, though. Not even Harman publishes spin-o-rama plots online for all of their speakers, even though they're the ones promoting the standard.
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