Another “Re-Veneer” project.....dedicated to the speaker line...that started my audio - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 01:44 PM
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Where do you buy veneers for this type of project anyhow?


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post #62 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 01:51 PM
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Speaker opening...done. Should be ready for clear coat - tomorrow
Looks great and thanks for sharing. Any thought of applying stain before the clear? It will look great with just clear, of course, but it seems like some creative stain before the clear could look amazing.
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post #63 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 02:10 PM
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Looks great. I need to do this.

I'd suggest a smaller speaker grill that closely resembles the outline of the driver and port.

Denon AVR-4500h Polk Rt-6000 (Rt-3000,Cs-1000, Rt-2000) 2 random subs Vizio M70
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post #64 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 02:30 PM
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Oh dear, the thread about making your own speaker cables has gotten me obsessed... this is going to throw me for a loop - I wish I had the skills/means to be able to do this with the speakers I have with vinyl veneer. I would prefer if all of my speakers had real wood veneer instead (the Polk RTi A1's and CSi A4 is real cherry veneer, which is nice, and I wish more lower-budget speakers had real wood veneer) - maybe after my Klipsch R-14M surrounds and the Elac S10EQ subwoofer gets older, I would consider if I could find info on how to cleanly remove the existing vinyl veneer.

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post #65 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 02:37 PM
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Oh dear, the thread about making your own speaker cables has gotten me obsessed... this is going to throw me for a loop - I wish I had the skills/means to be able to do this with the speakers I have with vinyl veneer. I would prefer if all of my speakers had real wood veneer instead (the Polk RTi A1's and CSi A4 is real cherry veneer, which is nice, and I wish more lower-budget speakers had real wood veneer) - maybe after my Klipsch R-14M surrounds and the Elac S10EQ subwoofer gets older, I would consider if I could find info on how to cleanly remove the existing vinyl veneer.
It's easier than you think, especially if you use PSA (self-stick) veneer. I think you could just sand the vinyl to scuff it and then go right over it with veneer. Glue may not stick that well to vinyl, but the self-stick veneer will. The only difficult part is trimming the edges, but the OP's approach of trimming close and sanding the rest takes all of the risk and difficulty out of it.
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post #66 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pjp View Post
It's easier than you think, especially if you use PSA (self-stick) veneer. I think you could just sand the vinyl to scuff it and then go right over it with veneer. Glue may not stick that well to vinyl, but the self-stick veneer will. The only difficult part is trimming the edges, but the OP's approach of trimming close and sanding the rest takes all of the risk and difficulty out of it.
I do have bookbinding experience (and two fine arts degrees), so I imagine this is fairly similar in principle.

I was thinking I could just sand the vinyl a bit to create enough of a tooth for the adhesive to bond to, but the logic in my brain was thinking it would be better get it down to as bare as possible even if the veneer only amounts to maybe a total of a 1/32" of thickness(?). If there is good quality self-adhesive wood veneer, I would not shy away from looking into that as an alternative. I suspect you just have to be very precise with the self-adhesive stuff as I imagine there is no room to be able to adjust once it's on there. My guess is with the non-self adhesive veneer, there's a very brief window where you could shift it slightly into place if you don't get is perfectly exact.

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post #67 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Where do you buy veneers for this type of project anyhow?


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eBay, eBay and more eBay! “JSO Wood” has literally everything you could ever want!


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post #68 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks great and thanks for sharing. Any thought of applying stain before the clear? It will look great with just clear, of course, but it seems like some creative stain before the clear could look amazing.


Not on this particular “grain”... I want this to look as “Zebrawood” as possible.

I’m NOT even going to do a gloss finish. As sometimes gloss can make the wood look “fake”.

Stay tuned—-however, as these focal 1007s are next!


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post #69 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jglass4788 View Post
Not on this particular “grain”... I want this to look as “Zebrawood” as possible.

I’m NOT even going to do a gloss finish. As sometimes gloss can make the wood look “fake”.

Stay tuned—-however, as these focal 1007s are next!


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Going to be doing “tint” not “stain”....

These are just a *warm up*



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post #70 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
I do have bookbinding experience (and two fine arts degrees), so I imagine this is fairly similar in principle.



I was thinking I could just sand the vinyl a bit to create enough of a tooth for the adhesive to bond to, but the logic in my brain was thinking it would be better get it down to as bare as possible even if the veneer only amounts to maybe a total of a 1/32" of thickness(?). If there is good quality self-adhesive wood veneer, I would not shy away from looking into that as an alternative. I suspect you just have to be very precise with the self-adhesive stuff as I imagine there is no room to be able to adjust once it's on there. My guess is with the non-self adhesive veneer, there's a very brief window where you could shift it slightly into place if you don't get is perfectly exact.


Honestly...I think just “roughing it up” is enough. As long as the surface is flat( and not overly porous)

On my first project, I tried to remove the existing veneer—-huge mistake(I.e. learning lesson)


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post #71 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pjp View Post
It's easier than you think, especially if you use PSA (self-stick) veneer. I think you could just sand the vinyl to scuff it and then go right over it with veneer. Glue may not stick that well to vinyl, but the self-stick veneer will. The only difficult part is trimming the edges, but the OP's approach of trimming close and sanding the rest takes all of the risk and difficulty out of it.


Agreed ...,go right over the top.

However don’t underestimate the power of contact cement(this isn’t the Elmer’s **** we used in school).....the wood will break before the contact cement gives away.

Hence the reason why your never going to “cleanly” pull old veneer


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post #72 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Eventually View Post
Looks great. I need to do this.



I'd suggest a smaller speaker grill that closely resembles the outline of the driver and port.


A round one might look good. But ultimately some speakers just look good without grills(and these are a great example).


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post #73 of 84 Old 08-14-2019, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jglass4788 View Post
Agreed ...,go right over the top.

However don’t underestimate the power of contact cement(this isn’t the Elmer’s **** we used in school).....the wood will break before the contact cement gives away.

Hence the reason why your never going to “cleanly” pull old veneer


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And I'm assuming you apply 6 separate pieces? I've looked at the Polk RTi A1's/CSi A4 I have, and I can't find a seam anywhere, but I suspect the veneer isn't flexible enough to bend 90 degrees.

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post #74 of 84 Old 08-15-2019, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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It most definitely Is NOT flexible to bend 90 degrees. Although it’s “backed”...it is real wood.


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post #75 of 84 Old 08-15-2019, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jglass4788 View Post
Honestly...I think just “roughing it up” is enough. As long as the surface is flat( and not overly porous)...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jglass4788 View Post
Agreed ...,go right over the top.

However don’t underestimate the power of contact cement(this isn’t the Elmer’s **** we used in school).....the wood will break before the contact cement gives away.
Agree, either with contact cement or PSA, only minimal scuffing of the vinyl is required. Contact cement is super strong and a "one way" trip -- what contact cement has bonded no man can separate . PSA is slightly more forgiving if you need to pull back the veneer briefly while laying it down.

I did one non-PSA veneer using regular Titebond glue under a press. That was a mistake -- Titebond is awesome for joining wood together, but not good for veneer (I ended up with some small bubbles). I should have used contact cement. I bought some Titebond that is made specifically for veneer, but I haven't had occasion to try it.

This is the PSA stuff I used (this happens to be in cherry) -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's pretty idiot proof as long as you get the cuts clean (trim and sand is safest). It's pretty thick veneer at 10 mil, so you can actually round the edges ever so slightly. I used this to restore a cherry side table where the tabletop was mostly gone -- ended up looking like new and was much better quality then when it was new.
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post #76 of 84 Old 08-23-2019, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok so I just my final sanding (80 grit was first, then 180, then down to 240)


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post #77 of 84 Old 08-23-2019, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Now going to start with the clear coat. This speaker will be a satin finish, with the grain coming through in many places. I find that some grains that look too perfect look fake(zebrawood is one of them)


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post #78 of 84 Old 08-23-2019, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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See in this pic how the grain will come through the clear? I’m going to sand some off this out, but ultimately I want some of the grain to extrude.


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post #79 of 84 Old 08-23-2019, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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This is about the point you start getting excited.....as you can start seeing what it’s going to look like as a “finished product”.


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post #80 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jglass4788 View Post
Now going to start with the clear coat. This speaker will be a satin finish, with the grain coming through in many places. I find that some grains that look too perfect look fake(zebrawood is one of them)
Looking great. The clear does really bring out the beauty of the wood. How does the Deft clear lacquer coat compare to poly? I've been using brush-on poly so long I haven't really thought about anything else. I used to use MinWax oil-based poly, but lately have been using Varathane water-based. I probably should be using the Deft stuff for some projects.
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post #81 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 01:57 PM
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See in this pic how the grain will come through the clear? I’m going to sand some off this out, but ultimately I want some of the grain to extrude.


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Very nice.

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post #82 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Sanding the 1st coat with 320 grit


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post #83 of 84 Old 08-29-2019, 09:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Sooo close!


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post #84 of 84 Old 08-29-2019, 09:56 PM - Thread Starter
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