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Polk S15s sound better than S50s

18K views 504 replies 21 participants last post by  gajCA 
#1 ·
I am using a Sony STR-DN1080 to power a pair of Polk S50s in 2.0 mode. Music (blues) lacks bass, presence, and body. Can't hear bass guitar. When I connect a pair of Polk S15s instead, the sound dramatically improves: more bass and presence.

The speakers are sensitive, so I can turn the volume knob only 33% of the way up on my AVR. The AVR is rated 100 wpc so I guess, it's putting out 33 wpc at 33% volume?

The S50s have max rated 150W while S15s have max rated 100W. I wonder if this is the reason S15s sound better?

For S50s, ratio of [input power from AVR] to [speaker rating] is 33W/150W = 18%.
For S15s, ratio of [input power from AVR] to [speaker rating] is 33W/100W = 33%.

I wonder if the S50s will sound better if I turned the volume way up? But I'll go deaf.
 
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#3 ·
Something isn't right. The S15's should not have more depth a better dynamics. Try different positioning either further apart or further out from the back wall. Then again you can just keep the S15's and spend the money on good sub instead.
 
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#17 ·
Now I'm convinced the way most AVSForumers go: 4 speakers and a sub! I wonder if "standing waves" from larger woofers in my particular room are the problem. But 5" is not a large woofer.
It's more like subs(plural/multiple). :)

Standing waves come with the territory in rooms at low frequencies regardless of woofer size. It's more about proper integration so there's a smooth transition between the speakers and the subs, and multiple subs for efficiency gain and smoother frequency response.
 
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#23 ·
I am using a Sony STR-DN1080 to power a pair of Polk S50s in 2.0 mode. Music (blues) lacks bass, presence, and body. Can't hear bass guitar. When I connect a pair of Polk S15s instead, the sound dramatically improves: more bass and presence.
Did you already run Audyssey or whatever room correction system that Sony has?

If so, turn it off and listen in "Pure direct" mode and see if it makes a difference.

Sometimes the room correction tools can completely screw up the sound, despite all the breathless sales hype and enthusiast/geek talk.
 
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#32 · (Edited)
The S10 would probably need a 100-120Hz crossover point, so the sub would be required to be in the front of the room, near the speakers. The sub would need to be capable up to about 140-150Hz, to provide a clean crossover range (it's not a wall, it's a slope). The S15 is a better speaker, in that it has quite a bit more mid-bass, allowing you to cross over at 80Hz, giving you sub placement options other than just the front of the room (Anything above 80Hz produced by the sub can lead to what's called sub-localization, where the sub stands out and does not integrate well with the main speakers). The tweeter is the same, but asked to do less in the S10 (because it's crossed over at a higher point, which may account for the cleaner treble you allude to).

The ML sub recommended above would be a good starting point, as it is currently priced at less than half it's original cost. Good quality sub, that can handle upper-bass well, while not becoming a one-note wonder, as so many cheap subs do. Also, it is a reasonable size, as many cheap subs are quite a bit larger (but poorer performers, appealing to the "bigger is better" crowd). It has 29Hz low end extension, so you can hear all of what Willie is doing on that Upright Bass! :cool:

BTW, sub placement is crucial to getting good sound, so have more than one placement option available.
 
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#63 ·
Don't know if the Sonos are artificially boosted in the bass frequencies, but it wouldn't surprise me. As was the case with the S50, you may need to move away from walls, if the speaker requires it. The bass should sound clean and even with the other frequencies being presented by the speaker. If you can't make that happen, then Sonos is not the speaker for you.
 
#64 ·
Don't know if the Sonos are artificially boosted in the bass frequencies, but it wouldn't surprise me.
Yes they are, like most mainstream audio products these days. My (retail $130) JBL wireless earbuds sounded worse than my $18 generic Chinese ones from Amazon due to the exaggerated, Beats-wannabe bass. Had to use an onboard EQ app to turn the 60Hz band down to zero and then boost the treble frequencies, otherwise I would've sent them back.
 
#68 · (Edited)
The Bose is specifically tuned for the "room", i.e. your car's interior. Plus, it probably cost more than your entire home system, while only having to fill a 200 cu ft space. If you work out the cu ft of your home, then multiply that by the cost factor per cu ft of your car audio, that's a hell of a lot more $ than your current system (and don't forget the cost of the professional to do the room tuning). That's why headphones are so popular. They only have to fill a 4 cubic inch space (x2) with sound.

Start saving ...
 
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#70 ·
My friend had the Pioneers and they were just "ok" and the center is said to be awful.

5.1.2 can be accomplished with small speakers like the S10s mounted at the ceiling/wall junction.

That would certainly sound better than upfiring modules.
 
#71 ·
In a non-symmetrical room like yours, upfiring atmos has little chance of being effective. Two small speakers at the ceiling/'front wall junction would be a far better approach. Your description of the S10s seems to indicate that they would do very well in that capacity (mount with tweeter on the bottom).

If you are past your return window on the Polks, and are sure you cannot make them work, then just sell them and start over with your search. Life's too short to listen to speakers you dislike every day.
 
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#79 ·
Most modern receivers have some sort of custom EQ option, so you can adjust the sound to a certain degree. I have the Pioneer speakers and they are really good budget options. I have the BS22A Atmos speakers and they are pretty nice and it's slick having the Atmos modules built-in for a seamless presentation. Using up-firing Atmos speakers isn't the best option and for some rooms, not good at all. The Pioneer AJ Series II speakers do have a warmer sound signature, but there again, EQ can be tweaked.
 
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#92 ·
I just joined the Forum and got here a little late I listen to a lot of Blues too. I purchased a full set of polks Signature series S55/S30/S15/S10/HTS10 in February. I initially set the S15s on the S55 and did some sound testing and the S15s sounded better in some ways especially with higher mids and possibly vocals (this was in the first 20 hours of play and I can't remember). Once I got everything broke in and figured out the right crossover for the sub as well as got Audyssey set up the S55s absolutely blew away the S15s. I'm running an older Denon AVR.

To me, the S10/15/55 sound similar for the highs never harsh but on the brighter side but different on the mids and lows. I have never heard a set of S50s. The S55 was much better across the board, especially at lows. I have a much larger room ~15' x 24' with my listening position about 11' away from the speakers. I have the speakers set up about 10' apart and not near the corners with the sub between them. The speakers are very slightly toe in and about 8" from the wall on hardwood flooring. At first, the bass was "boomy" and I had to play around a lot. But with the speakers set to small and the crossover at 80Hz it sounded good with Audyssey on (not as "full" with it off).

I don't know what to think about your situation if you have questions about my experience and I can help let me know. I also have a set of RSL CG23s that I run in another room after reading your posts I think these would be a great choice for your situation. They seemed much easier to pair with a sub. Both Polks and the RSLs sound good to me but the RSLs are more "laid back" while the Polks are more punchy. I can't describe it.
 
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#95 ·
Could you tell us about the room? What size/shape is it? Is it carpeted? Are there wall sound treatments? Apologies if you have mentioned so before. I have found that higher end speakers with more complicated designs or construction respond much better to an amp that has the muscle to drive them well.

Edit: I see you have answered the room question.
 
#100 ·
In terms of loudness you are more than likely correct based on the larger amp and driver.

In terms of extension and flat frequency response, not quite as much.

"The SUB R12’s close-miked response, normalized to the level at 80 Hz, indicates that the lower –3-dB point is at 31 Hz and the –6-dB point is at 26 Hz. The upper –3-dB point is at 122 Hz"

Read more at https://www.soundandvision.com/cont...speaker-system-test-bench#8OqArZbqlsCRfO82.99

 
#112 ·
The more urgent question I'm trying to answer is will the Polk s50+sub blow away the s15+sub or will the s55+sub blow away the s15+sub? If so, I'll get the towers+sub and return my s15. If the tower+sub will only be a little better than s15+sub, then I'll keep the s15. The towers alone were not good. I can select a sub later but want to nail down the front L/R before the return period on my s15 ends.
 
#172 ·
I am using a Sony STR-DN1080 to power a pair of Polk S50s in 2.0 mode. Music (blues) lacks bass, presence, and body. Can't hear bass guitar. When I connect a pair of Polk S15s instead, the sound dramatically improves: more bass and presence.

The speakers are sensitive, so I can turn the volume knob only 33% of the way up on my AVR. The AVR is rated 100 wpc so I guess, it's putting out 33 wpc at 33% volume?

The S50s have max rated 150W while S15s have max rated 100W. I wonder if this is the reason S15s sound better?

For S50s, ratio of [input power from AVR] to [speaker rating] is 33W/150W = 18%.
For S15s, ratio of [input power from AVR] to [speaker rating] is 33W/100W = 33%.
The AVR volume (gain) dials are usually from -80dB to +16dB (96dB span).

The "33%" dialing would mean that the AVR is outputting with (0.33 x 96) - 80 = -48.32dB gain

That would be the formula to calculate the actual gain setting on your AVR.

With approximation you can quickly calculate it like " %dial travel - 80dB "; Here in you case that would be 33 - 80 = 47dB - close enough. :)
 
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